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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Comments
Like I said, there may be a difference in our trucks, but if you want me to, e-mail me and I'll send you my local dealers phone number. Then you can call and see if your dealer is trying to rip you off.
Ford has no 'legal' obligation to help you in any way.. HOWEVER, I have heard of cases similar to what johncos mentions.
=======If this happend to me==========
I would have approached the dealership service manager, and remained polite and professional, and asked if there is any way that they can work with the Ford regional rep to help me out. I'm not asking for a freebie, but can they (FoMoCo) pay 1/2 the cost, or I pay labor and they (FoMoCo) pay parts etc.. Also call the Ford 1-800 customer service number and make a similar request.
I've owned many Fords in the past, and plan to own Fords in the future. I am disappointed with this recent experience, and it doesn't seem like a typical problem, but was just a weird failure.
(Heck, some Fords don't even recommend their first major service until after 100k miles).
=======================
The best way to have FoMoCo or the dealership to completely ignore you or stonewall is to say 'I'll never buy another Ford'. When someone says this, it is clear that no matter what they do, they've lost a customer, so why help them..
In my experience, if you give a company a reasonable chance to show their commitment to customers, they will help as any business as successful as Ford knows the value of repeat customers.
This doesn't mean be a 'whimp', but it is possible to be firm.. This doesn't always work but I think I double my chances of getting a favorable outcome because I get 2 tries,
Try 1: be a nice guy, (but firm)
Try 2: then use the law (not so nice guy).
Whereas if you use (not so nice guy) first, there's no going back.
Even though I've had clutch problems in the past (the clutch master cylinder went out at about 4K miles), it doesn't seem to be a clutch problem causing this. The clutch is fully engaging and disengaging during normal use in about the middle of the clutch pedal stroke.
Any ideas? I haven't yet brought it in to the dealer. I'd like to have some clues about what might be causing this so that I can make a semi-informed argument about it being a warranty issue (only 13K miles on the truck). I'd sure appreciate some help on this one.
Tranny stuff:
What I know/knew is that manual trannies have a synchronizer that is supposed to align the gears when you depress the clutch. The clutch, when not pressed in, still allows the shaft to turn inside your tranny. So when you go to put it back into gear, the gears are not lined up properly if the synchronizer is not right.
Another possibility could be the pressure plate. When you depress your clutch you are causing a yoke and "through-out bearing" to push against the pressure plate, and therefore releasing the pressure that holds the clutch engaged to your flywheel. You said you had work done on your truck, it is quite possible that the parts changer( I mean mechanic) did not get the clutch adjusted properly. It may be possible that there is air in the clutch system not releasing the pressure plate all the way.
These are just a couple ideas, I hope they help.
Only about 4k difference to start with.
Most dealers are selling the new truck for invoice or less, so the difference is even less than 4k.
Then add in the super low financing (0% in some rare cases), and generally financing rates are lower on new vehicles than used.
Only 2 years of warranty left on the 2001, vs 3years of warranty on a new 2002.
All of these factors may cause folks to come to the decision point:
-do I take a chance on a used vehicle that I don't know anything about.
-or buy a brand new 2002 off the dealer lot with 0 miles on it, and full warranty, lower fianancing etc.
On the average, car dealers are suffering just like you.. It's not a sellers market to begin with.
The PSD engine has a 100K warranty (not the rest of the truck, just the engine including electrical, injectors, fuel pumps etc.)
If maintain properly, the PSD will last a very long time as there are folks with hunderds of thousands of miles on them. (my little brothers PSD has well over 100k). He bought the truck used with around 75k miles on it, and had a problem where it sometimes was hard to start.. The dealership (in AK) replaced all of the injectors free of charge.
As with most larger trucks, the automatic trannys take a beating and its important to watch the tranny temp closely when hauling. But even with this, the trannys do hold up with periodic flush/fluid changes. With the manual tranny, the main factor is how you drive it.. I've not heard of anyone with clutch problems (probably because the of the creeper 1st gear that can get even the largest loads moving without abusing the clutch).
I have an 00 F250 5.4L 5sp 4x2 4.10LS with 49k miles. The only 'problems' were a speed sensor and IAC valve both replace under the 36k warranty.
I don't know if you are familiar with a diesel and its operation, but you can't drive it like a gasser eventhough mine drives more like a gasser than any other diesel I've ever driven. They may be a little inconvenient at times, but they'll serve you well.
The reason I am interested in the track record of diesels used in trucks is that I had a Ford E-250 van years ago with one of the first diesels and it holed a piston at 65,000 miles. With a 100,000 mile warranty that would definitely be a major inconvenience, but not a catastrophe. I notice Dodge shows a 7 year 100,000 mile warranty. How many years does Ford offer now?
You mentioned you can't drive a diesel the way you can a gasoline engine, mullins 87. What are you referring to?
I appreciate both of your responses, and would appreciate any from anyone else out there, as well.
I do know Ford offers a 100k mile warranty on the engine. I think it is 5 years, PSD only though.
in 1999. Problems I had:
new- someone at dealer took floor mats between signing agreement and bringing in money to pick up next day. i recieved a "voucher " for mats.
10,000 miles- 1 side mirror clouded. Dealer
replaced it with different style and actually let me drive away like that. I took back for another
2 month wait for same style other side.
35,998 miles- ignition switch quit working. I
replaced myself when ford authorized tow never showed.
40,000 ,miles a engine coil wore out (I guess there are 8 of these), cost me $450 at ford dealer.
53,000 miles today- Present condition- driveline shudders when step on gas from dead stop. I took
it in for routine pads, brake shop said rotors are rusted ( I drive everyday). Leather seats are cracking.
I also own an 01 expedition, also had engine coil go out at 13,000 miles, luckily under warranty.
Well, I considered buying another ford
but has anyone noticed how low mileage is on fords ?
Well I believe in supporting America but I also
need to buy a product I percieve to offer good service at a fair price, so I bought a 03 Toyota
RAV 4 made in Japan. I am getting 30 MPG. It is perfect.
Now I want to replace the Toyota emblems with Ford emblems, maybe go to Toys are us and get some "Excalibur" or "Extraterrestrial" chrome
sign to put on back. This would be a real gas.
I think people will go nuts and run to there Ford dealer looking for one of these.
Thanks
Thanks,
Steve
Are you having problems with the truck dying, or with a dead battery?
I had an 88 Sable that was not kind to alternators.
After a couple short lived units from Grand Auto, I concluded that paying more for a quality unit from a local auto-electric shop was worth a try. That unit lasted as long as the original alternator had, but it too, succumbed to the high electrical demands of the accessories.
Get a good alternator.
My wifes '92 Sable has also needed an alternator replacement one time. Maybe they got better. It's a ford too. ;-)
Thanks for the info,
Steve
Over the counter stores may not care, much less have the equipment to change it for you.
Steve
When the IAC goes bad, the vehicle fails to idle and just stalls, thus making it appear that the mechanism is an automatic idle controller..
but its really an IAC..
I don't have your problem and hopefully never will. You may have already considered this, but just throwing out some ideas.
I think you're right, they don't want to mess with it. The only other thing I can think of right off the bat is your wheels/tires. Have you tried having them rebalanced? Maybe swap the fronts and rears to see what happens. Try the spare at each location to see if anything changes. If it only happens between 72 - 80, then it is definitely ground speed related, not engine speed.
This is something I would not want to "have to live with" if it were my truck. I have a couple of issues with my truck, but they occur outside my usual operating ranges and with a very small amount of forethought, I can avoid the situations that cause the issues.
Heck, one last thought just came to mind. You could have a rotor that is out of balance. I would look at all rotating parts from the driveshaft back.
I no longer own an F-150 but did back in '99 when I changed out my grill to put in a mesh style grill.
I have these items listed at F-150 online in the classified section.
No pressure just didn't want to throw them out when I thought someone might be interested in them like I was 4 years ago. Email me if you have any questions or want to see some pictures.
http://www.f150online.com/classifieds/viewuser.cfm?uid=331
I'm looking at purchasing a '94 F-150 with the 5.0L V8 and tow package, but manual tranny. Does anyone know what the tow capacityis? Edmunds lists 7500 lbs, but that's the V6 and (I assume) the auto transmission.
If anyone knows, please let me know. Thanks.