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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

19394969899125

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    cajungcajung Member Posts: 1
    My Explorer is in the shop.
    Had it in a dealership 6 months ago, transmission had acted up. Had been bucking in reverse, and slow moving forward. Drove 40 minutes to dealership, and they couldnt get it to fail. So took it home.
    Now, the reverse is out, and I am told that it looks like the planetary letgo exploded. Either way, it can not be rebuilt. For a ten year old vehicle to need 3k+ in transmission work, vehicle itself is only worth 4k - 5k.
    It does have 125k miles, from reading previous, it sounds like I have been fortunate that it lasted this long.

    I know my list of options is short, but any suggestions would be appreciated.
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    kk35kk35 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem, but had no taillights. Do you know the fuse # for the dashlights? I do not have an owners Manual.
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    electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Sorry your trans is out at 125K. What engine do you have, the 6 Cyl SOHC?
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    ncems117ncems117 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 ford explorer. When you put the least amount of pressure on the gas pedal to pass or to get on down the road, a jerking and reaving of the engine sound, and aslo a slight power loss can be felt. What causes this? :confuse:
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    bopilotbopilot Member Posts: 8
    HI,
    I have the same problem exactly with my 98 Ford Explorer. I replaced the under the hood Ford Relay and nothing happened. Cannot find a fuse identified for the horn but still the symptoms are exactly the same. Both horn and cruise control went out at the same time. Have you found a fix yet?

    Thanks
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    bckthuzsbckthuzs Member Posts: 1
    I have a 02 and thought I would do some tranny maintance only to find after I drained it and had the wrong filter that I have a sealed tranny. I finally found another filter. Does anyone know how to go about putting the fluid back in the tranny? I have an idea know on how to check it through the plug but haven't found any suggestions on how to fill. If anyone can give me an ideas it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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    biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    The problem is going to be how much transmission fluid to put back in to the transmission. Too little or too much will create serious problems. You could ask someone at a local Ford dealership or transmission repair facility to tell you how much fluid is needed and how to get the fluid in to the transmission. You could also have the truck towed to the Ford dealership and have them complete the job. This should be a good learning experience. Before DIY check out the complete procedure to make sure you have the tools and the ability to perform the repair. The cost of completing this repair could be considered tuition for this learning experience. I had a similar experience with my daughter's Eagle Talon's timing belt. I thought I could save her money by DIY. I fouled up the alignment of the belt and had the car towed to a repair shop to complete the job. Now I let someone else do timing belts. They are easy to do if the engine is out of the car, but in the car......!!!
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    chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "I have an idea know on how to check it through the plug but haven't found any suggestions on how to fill. If anyone can give me an ideas it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks"

    This is not a "back yard" procedure. Have the car towed to a FORD DEALER. There is a machine that the dealer uses to perform this procedure.

    UNBELIEVABLE!
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    balancedbalanced Member Posts: 1
    keep getting this code to a check engine light. is it likely a charcoal canister? is that an easy piece to lay my hands on?
    colorado
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    hoganj55hoganj55 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 2002 mountaineer with 120000 miles. If I am at a steady speed (lets say at 2000 rpm) it will kick up to 2002-2003 rpm for a couple seconds and then drop right back down. Also if I have used the cruise control and slowed down to turn it off every now and then the cruise will click on and set itsel without me resetting it. The dealership has had it 8 differnt times and can not fix it. They have replaced silinoids and overhauled the trans. Its still not fixed. HELP!
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    gawgaw Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Explorer Eddie Bauer with 58000 miles on it. I was wondering if anyone ever bought shock absorbers with the automatic leveler at any auto part stores. I checked at a local Ford dealer and they wanted $900 for all four. I was wondering if there is somewhere cheaper.
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    carproblems1carproblems1 Member Posts: 1
    The vehicle has about 28,000 miles. Recently,when I am driving all the gage lights come on the dashboard and all the gage hands swing back and forth for about 3-4 seconds. It is now occurring with more frequency. Autozone checked the battery and the alternator. No problem. We also checked by the brake pedal with their computer -no problems there also. Does any one have an idea of what may be wrong?
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    safety51safety51 Member Posts: 9
    The passenger seat in my 2002 Explorer has quit moving forward or backward. Dealer says motor is bad but has to replace the entire seat track for $1,069. Has anyone ever replaced this part themselves? It doesn't look too bad and I can purchase a new one on the net for $450.
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    dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Another option is to try a body shop. Their labor costs tend to be cheaper than a dealership.
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    jmgreen78jmgreen78 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 1997 Explorer. The Heat is very hot unless the Max AC is on. I was wondering if you ever figured out what was wrong with your 1998 Explorer and how to fix it?
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    sooquietsooquiet Member Posts: 3
    I have a chirping noise in the front wheels of my 98 Explorer, now mainly the left front, that I can plainly hear starting at about 10mph up until I'm going fast enough for the noise to rise out of my hearing range. The faster the wheels roll the faster the noise chirps. Both front wheel bearings and brake pads have been changed as have the rotors been turned. The noise might go away for a little while but always comes back regardless of what I do.

    My parents had the car before me and said that it made a chirping noise a couple of times when they had it. When it did they took it to an old time mechanic who said all it needed was some lubricant somewhere around the front wheels. Whatever he did took care of the noise for a long time. The problem is that they don't know exactly what he did, he died a couple of years ago, and my current mechanic tells me that there is no moving parts to lubricate that might cause the noise.

    Can anyone offer any help?

    Steve
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    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Are you sure it's a wheel? Does it continue or change if you take your foot off the gas pedal while moving? Otherwise, it could be a fan or belt.

    tidester, host
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    sooquietsooquiet Member Posts: 3
    It's definitely in the wheel area. At times you can hear it at very low revolutions of the wheel(s) in that you can tell that upon each full revolution of the wheel you get 1 chirp. At one point the mechanic even had it jacked up and turned it by hand without the engine on and it still chirped. He is so convinced that there is nothing to lube that he even replaced the wheel bearings and brake pads for a second time, free, and it still does it.
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    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    That definitely rules out fan belts and such. Does anyone else have any ideas?

    tidester, host
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    biomanbioman Member Posts: 172
    How about checking out the CV joints or the half shafts? If something is slightly out of spec then when the wheel rotates faster and centrifugal and/or centripetal forces begin to act on the system the contacts causing the chirping is no longer there. Just a shot in the dark!
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    msheehanmsheehan Member Posts: 2
    My anti theft system stopped working the other day. the following systems failed to work: both remotes, keypad entry system, autolock on doors when placed in drive and the theft light on dash no longer goes on after locking doors. I checked the fuse that feeds the anti theft and fuel pump under the hood(OK) and alos checked the fuse in the interior that feeds the anti theft and radio (OK). The SUV runs fine and all other systems are working including radio. Any suggestions as to what components may have failed and there location on SUV.

    Thanks
    Mike Sheehan
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    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I think that would be worth checking out.

    tidester, host
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    agreenlyagreenly Member Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Explorer V8. I recently had the ball joints replaced prior to driving from Texas to Georgia. During the drive, I found that the heater temperature control no longer worked. I called the mechanic in Texas who told me he might not have reconnected a vacuum hose. I took it to a mechanic in Georgia who told me the vacuum system was fine, however the damper door needed to be replaced. Does anyone have any ideas on this problem?
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    agreenlyagreenly Member Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Explorer with the exact same problems. I took it to a mechanic and had the vacuum system tested - this could cause the problem. My vacuum system was fine, so he narrowed it down to the damper door in the heater box which controls the hot/cold air mixture. He said he needed to replace the damper door (approximately $800), mostly labor. I'm looking for other people who have had the same problem and found a different solution.
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    mustangman10mustangman10 Member Posts: 1
    I just recently purchased a used 2002 explorer with 50K miles. The door ajar light is on and now the anti-theft alarm is going off for no reason. Any ideas? :sick:
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    electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    This is a know common problem on these vehicles. I have a 97 XLT and it is a great vehicle, I'm lucky that I've never had this problem. You'll have to bite the bullet on this one. Check around to get the best prices, as it can vary greatly.
    Good Luck.
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    agreenlyagreenly Member Posts: 3
    Thanks - I'll give it a try.
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    msheehanmsheehan Member Posts: 2
    Update: The problem was identified by dealer as a failure of the RAP computer module. The cost to repair was $530.00 for the labor, RAP module and two new keyless entry units since the old ones will not work with the new module.
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    ustazzafustazzaf Member Posts: 311
    Having worked on cars for many years professionally, I would sat it is likely the brakes. The rotor probably has a slight wobble that causes contact on possibly the wear indicator.
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    esaindonesaindon Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Explorer in the shop having this same problem repaired. They tell me they have to replace the heater box. Aproximate total for the job with parts around $800.00 . This vehicle only has 70k and is always garaged. Does any one know if this heater blend door problem is exclusive to Fords?
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    walkolifewalkolife Member Posts: 7
    The chrome dash bezels create reflections in the windshield and are a bit distracting. I'm talking about the oval trim around the speedo cluster and the two circular trims at the a/c / heat vents. Does anyone know how to properly remove them? I'd like to paint them flat black. thanks
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    moonfairy369moonfairy369 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 keyless entry ford explorer. All of a sudden the driver door will not open
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    bchurchbchurch Member Posts: 1
    we have a 2003 explorer which has an intermitant problem which sends the battery flatso far 3 batteries 2 alternators 2 regulators and 3 auto electricians can not solve this problem..anyone else have same thing
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    ustazzafustazzaf Member Posts: 311
    Are you talking about the numbers on the door or a remote? I bought my wife a Mountaineer, and my remote was intermitant at best. Turns out, I was tgoo close to the vehicle. When I am next to the door, it does not work ever. When I am 20 feet away, it works every time. Guess it is the receiver location.
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    ustazzafustazzaf Member Posts: 311
    I can say without any hesitation thst your switch on the column is bad. While the fuses may be different for the high an low beam as well as the fog lights, they all are controlled through the dimmer switch. The low beams also control the fog lights, so if the switch is turning off the lows, it is also killing the fogs. Open and shut case.
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    electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    "The Headlights and fog lamps on my 1995 ford explorer just stopped working. All fuses and power distribution box have been checked and are o.k. I can turn on my high beams as long as I hold the flash switch but they turn off if I let go of the flash switch. My next step is the switch or the multi-function switch both of which are a pain to remove. Has anyone encountered this problem? "

    A Pain to remove? I have commented on the multifuntion switch before, I have replaced the one in my wife's 97 XLT, it was so easy, it was like a walk in the park, easier than falling of a log. No need to touch the steering wheel ot air bag. On the steering column behind the steering wheel, remove a few screws to remove the plastic covers, unscrew the stem for the Tilt, Unplug the wiring connectors, Remove the 2 screws that hold the multifuntion switch to the steering column, and its off. Install the new one in reverse order. Easy as pie!
    E.D in Sunny Florida
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    explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,329
    just had mine replaced. got a vibration/rumble over 55 mph afterwards. the dealer reindexed the driveshaft and balanced the tires. everything ok now.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
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    alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    do you have the 02-05 model or do you have the new ones? just curious. thanks.
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    explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,329
    i have an '02. have had all the common issues, but i still enjoy it.
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
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    duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    My friend has a 2004 Mountaineer with 31,000 miles on it. It is his wife's car and he noticed the other day that the lift gate portion of the back end - the painted piece that runs from the rear window to the emblem on the back has cracked. His wife has no idea how this happenned. Does anyone know what this could be? Also, his paperwork states that he has a 3 year, 30K mile warantee - is that the Ford warantee, or the dealer's? He bought the car used a year ago.

    Thanks all!
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    alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    common problem I believe. mine (02 xlt) cracked in the winter of 03 probably due to cold weather back when i was living in ohio.
    the dealer will fix it since it has less than 36k miles on it. :shades:
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    mjerniganmjernigan Member Posts: 1
    I have 896 miles on my 06 explorer. 4 times since i've had it, while going from park to drive, it "feels" like the vehicle is in neutral, then when you press the gas, it BANGS into gear, sounds like the bottom is falling out. Ford replaced the cylinoid housing? but it continues to happen. any ideas?
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    explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,329
    my '02 lasted until about 2 months ago when i parked it outside on a cold night. i have duct tape on it.
    my wife keeps asking me to get it fixed, but it kind of reminds me of when i was younger, so i'm leaving it on for now. :)
    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
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    baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    have 896 miles on my 06 explorer. 4 times since i've had it, while going from park to drive, it "feels" like the vehicle is in neutral, then when you press the gas, it BANGS into gear, sounds like the bottom is falling out.

    My wife used to do this in our Escape because she'd hit the gas before the tranny had a chance to engage. Sometimes it takes a couple of seconds for the gears to align and if you hit the gas too soon you will feel that banging sensation. She'd do it when shifting from P to D and sometimes from R to D. I haven't noticed if she's doing it in the Explorer too as I haven't been drunk enough to be a passenger while she's driving. :P

    Could that be the problem?
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    ajmtbmajmtbm Member Posts: 245
    we had a crackedhatch and got it fixed under warranty.

    it broke againb 6 months out of warranty and ford fixed it free.

    given its a common problem i would try to get a free fix. i would be surprised if they said no.

    if the dealer wont do it for you call ford directly.
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    maplove1maplove1 Member Posts: 1
    I just had my 96 ford explorer fixed. I had the automatic transmission rebuilt. There was a problem, the front yoke on the drive train and it leaked transimission fluid. The transmission guys said i had to get that repaired in order to keep my warranty. So the next day i got it repaired. I had lost about a quart of fluid from the leak on the way to the mechanic. Now the overdrive light blinks off and on and the transmission drops out of gear after a prolonged period of driving. sometimes, after i come to a complete stop, there is a grinding noise when i accelerate quickly. Is it an electrical problem or is the yoke still bad or is there some other problem???
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    daryll44daryll44 Member Posts: 307
    The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light came on today on my '03 Mountaineer Premier AWD V8 with 47K miles. The book says it's related to emissions. Oxygen sensor?????

    What do you guys think is wrong and what is a fair repair cost? Also, I need to drive to Cleveland on Tuesday (about a 270 mles round trip)...can I drive it with the light on and get it fixed later in the week?
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    pegglespeggles Member Posts: 1
    Hi: Tonite I noticed one of my rear windows was down just a little bit because I heard the air flowing. So I tried to put it up using the driver switch and it would not go up any further. So like an idiot I used the switch to put it all the way down. Neither the driver door switch NOR the switch on the affected door itself will put the window up. It's alittle chilly. Any suggestions? thanks in advance
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    duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    My thanks to all who responded. My friend is going to try his luck at the dealer - I'll let you know how it goes.
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