Toyota Highlander

wwest

"..it seems to kick down out of overdrive gear faster..."

That would normally indicate that in the OD gear ratio the engine is JUST BARELY producing enough drive torque. If it didn't do THAT before then the indication would be that the K&N resulted in lowering the engine torque in OD.

Or maybe the oil wicking off the K&N has contaminated the MAF/IAT sensors as very often happens with K&N.

tomd

What I was trying to say is that there doesn't seem to be as much delay when I give it more gas to deliberately "kick it down". This is a good thing, not a bad thing. I know it is probably just my imagination because it's hard to believe that the air filter would have that effect.

BTW, I don't notice any difference in engine noise.

nomorebenz

You can't do much better than the OEM filter for longer engine life.
There's a balance between maximum air flow to the engine and protection against contaminants. Some filters do a good job at maximizing both. Others such as the K&N will trade off a little protection for greater air flow.
At the recommended service intervals, the engine oil can handle the increased contaminants allowed by the K&N and others like it. These filters are designed to allow more air when the engine wants it such as during maximum acceleration or WOT or whatever you want to call it. They are not designed for engine protection as much as for engine performance. For protection, stick with the paper.

tombuchta1

I've had a tire vandalized and it cant be repaired. Has anyone had any experience with replacing a single tire? Just wondering if the tire dealer (or Toyota) will recommend replacing at least 2. Thanks

billran

tom,

I have a 2005 that has had that happen twice. The first time I only had about 6000 miles on it and I took it to a tire store. They replaced the tire (it is the Michelin Energy) for about $100 total. The second time I had about 25K miles on the car and what I had them do is replace that tire and then put the spare (which was still new) on the other wheel, so again just $100. With the two new tires and rotations I am close to 40K miles now and still looking good.

barry18

I have a 2001 Highlander with 72,000 miles which I purchased new. Recently I have had to add oil between changes, usually after highway trips. Typically this is a quart about every 1,000 miles. Car has had regular Toyota dealer oil changes since new and does not smoke and no oil residue in tailpipe. Any ideas? Thanks.

lmacmil

Most of the manufacturers consider oil usage of 1000 miles per quart normal although it is high by today's standards. Obviously the engine is not as tight was it was when new and highway speeds use more than city driving.

olander

I have exactly the same problem have you or anyone figured out what causing the rattling? I too have also removed the radio and climate controls and foamed practically everything in there and still the rattle is still there.

ch1133

Your rattle might not originate from same place as mine. In my case the rattle came from the large black plastic cover that is mounted below the wiper blades on the outside of the windshield. It was rattling only slightly and at various times. You need to lift up the large black plastic where there is a small piece of rubber at the top and insert thin rubber pieces at few places along entire length where plastic comes into contact with windshield.

phrosut

Probably not the same rattle as mentioned above, but I've been trying to find a rattle for a year in our '03 dash. Seemed like it was coming from the speedometer area, and only did it on rough roads.

FINALLY found it (not yet fixed it tho): it's the plastic cowling in the back of the steering wheel, behind the airbag, around the column.

Since it doesn't happen often, I'm putting off disassembly of the steering wheel because I've never dealt with airbags and heard the scare stories.

Anybody have suggestions?

Phil

olander

Mine is definitely coming from the back of the climate controls. I recently had my windshield replaced and they installed new rubber moldings around the black plastic area you are reffering too. So I don't think I'm getting any rattling there but thanks for your tip though good to know just in case.

grahampeters

G'day

Radio rattle is the worst problem I have had with my Kluger (Highlander) and ultimately traced to a loose nut actually insude the radio cassette/CD unit. Replaced under warranty. Suggest getting someone else to drive and localise noise from there. You can usually get an engine stethoscope from a good auto parts dealer which does help locate odd rattles

Cheers

Graham

steve159

Replace the PCV valve. The Highlander had a problem with oil sludge and causes the PCV vavle to be become glogged. At highway speeds the oil is sucked into the cylinder and burned (no smoke because of the converter and the speed doesn't allow it to be seen). The dealer wanted to pull my engine and overhaul it, I read about thin on a website and it cost $5.00 to fix the problem. Just for insurance I have the valve replaced with most oil changes now.

herzogtum71

For the last 3 days I thought I had the dashboard rattle, too. Sounded like creaky plastic. I felt around the dashboard, glovebox, radio controls. Couldn't pinpoint where it was coming from.

Then I noticed a little yellow leaf under the very end of the passenger-side windshield wiper. I hadn't used the wipers for 3 days, and when I got rid of the leaf the "rattle" stopped.

It sounds pretty dumb, of course, but it takes only a few seconds to check for a flapping leaf.

99gs

If you have driven both of these vehicles, would you comment on if you noticed the 300 lbs difference. Does the handling suffer noticeable on the Hybrid? Edmunds points out the added weight being a negitive in their review of the hybrid. I'm looking at an '06 or '07 not an '08.

wwest

Added weight, LOW mounted added weight, is most likely more of an asset for an SUV than otherwise. Plus the extra initial low end TORQUE of the electrics brings it into balance.

tomd

I was going down a hill in my '07 V6 AWD VERY slowly, less then 10 mph. It was extremely slippery, about 1/2 inch of snow with ice underneath. I decided to drop it into Low gear to get some engine breaking and when I did, the car lost control and spun around. The car wasn't warmed up yet so the idle was probably still a little high which might have aggrevated things. I heard a rapid "beeping" noise which I guess was the VSC telling me that it was trying to correct but couldn't. I guess the lesson learned is leave the gear shift alone and let the computer control the car.

miatablue

It sounds to me that when you shifted into first (low), the engine braking was so high as to cause the wheels to skid, causing the spin. I think that the VSC system can not apply power to the engine to reduce the braking effect, so its control was ineffective. You might have had better response by shifting to 3rd or 2nd, not 1st for limited engine braking. Your lesson learned may be the correct solution.

silverltd

I have been a Highlander Ltd owner since 2001. I recently traded in my 2001 Highlander Ltd for a 2007 Highlander Ltd. Does anyone know if there is a way to defrost/defog the outside side mirrors without having to turn on the rear window defroster/defogger? There have been times when I've needed just the outside side mirrors defogged, not the rear window (which I can clear with one swipe of the rear wiper), and I'm not comfortable heating up the rear window if it doesn't need it---I think I'm hyper-worried about the potential of cracking the window.

Why in the world would Toyota change the set-up of this? The switches used to be separate and at least to me, it seems like they should be separate. Does anyone know any work-arounds?

Thanks.

wwest

Next time try a light, slight, application of the rear implemented e-brake. Braking at the rear will not only slow your descent but will also provide something of a "drag" anchoring to keep the "behind" behind.

bdyment

Most vehicles only de-ice the mirrors when the rear defroster is turned on. I have never seen a rear window shatter from using the rear defroster. Nothing to worry about. I think the 2001 Highlander mirror defrost was an after thought and that is why it had a separate switch. Not a bad idea though.

mdchachi

It's been a single switch since at least 2004 which is how my HL works. I don't agree that most people would expect separate switches since most people wouldn't care if the back window is being defogged needlessly. Where did you get the idea that the window could crack from using a rear defogger? The thought never even crossed my mind before today.

lmacmil

It had better be very slight because if the rear wheels stop turning, you will lose control as the back tries to overtake the front.

wwest

Yes, the old technique, VERY old RWD technique, was to downshift a gear or so and then use the clutch to modulate the braking effect. Then along came automatics and we lost the clutch so I adapted by using the e-brake. On some of my cars I even disabled the "rachet" type e-brake latch to facilitate the capability.

With FWD or F/AWD the only possible technique is the e-brake use.

webgood

wwest...I've traditionally found your advice right on the money, but this time I respectfully disagree with your suggestion. From my live, real personal experience in experimenting with both 2 RWD cars that I drive for work and my own 4X4 HL, applying the E-brake on a downhill slide will almost always and VERY quickly whip the rearend around. It "seems" like the right thing to do to "drag" the rearend, but actually results in the just opposite.
Regards, BGood

wwest

I did not, do not mean to say that one should apply the e-brake so much as to result in the behind trying to lead the front. My example, downshifting a stick shift and then using teh clutch to modulate/moderate the rear braking effect should give you an idea of what I mean.

Think of the way a tractor/trailer rig driver might use "drag" braking in this situation.

And keep in mind that even with slight braking at the rear one must be quick to recognize a skid or overstear resulting from same and crank in some corrective control at the front.

webgood

Thanks wwest. Keep up the good work!
Regards, BGood

ricdob

my Highlander has been essentially an around town vehicle, until last year when my daughter went to college 110 miles away. I use Mobil 1 oil and change it every 5000 miles and its not down a drop. But now I notice on a 220 mile excursion at 70-75 mph, I use almost a quart of oil per high speed trip. The bottom of the vehicle is clean, nothing is loose, and no oil on the rear bumper. Any ideas? It now has 47000 miles.

thanks, rich

gmevans69

I have a 2002 Highlander and can't access the outer headlights to replace them. I am assuming that I need to take out the assembly but don't know where the lower bolts are located or if I am even correct in my assumption. Anyone did this already?

livingcolor

The button you push to open the clamshell covered compartment in the console will not budge. Very frustrating. I have only had the car for 6 mos, and it worked perfectly at first, then became a bit stubborn, now it is stuck in the up position. Can I clean the mechanism somehow? Does it need some lubricant? I sometimes wonder why designers have to make something so complicated when it would work fine with a manual door like the cup holder has. Please help me before I get the hammer out! Thanks.

wwest

In my '01 RX you acccess the nuts holding the headlights in via the front wheelwell after removing the liner.

ecotrklvr

I'm wondering why you want to replace a headlight? If you've got a burned out headlight, these days it's just a small bulb to replace, not the whole headlight. You can get to the small lamp from under the hood. Follow the headlight wires to a connector, and you'll see the plug. Instructions on how to remove the bulb itself may be available online, but you could probably get someone at Pep Boys / Autozone / NAPA to sell you the bulb and put it in for you. It's a 2 minute job.

gmevans69

I don't want to replace the light I want to get to the outer bulb its the amber lamp/directional signal and Toyota named it the outer headlight. I can see the lamp holder but can't get to it. The low and highbeam lamps true are a two minute job but not these two. I don't know how to get my hand behind there without removing the whole assembly, that's why I'm asking if there is something someone who has done this knows about There is literally between 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch space between the fender chasis and the light housing and the lamp is about 3 to 4 inches away. One really good engineer designed that one!

nimrod99

http://sumbiz03.home.comcast.net/~sumbiz03/HighlanderAWD.pdf

I was right all along. The Highlander is 50:50 torque split

wwest

Yes, that's EXACTLY correct..!

But there would be absolutely no market for an LSD, Limited Slip Differential, for the rear wheels if the torque distribution REMAINED 50/50 in all driving conditions.

But we all know that to be a HUGE market...

Leaves one to wonder why, doesn't it...??

nimrod99

That's where Traction Control comes in.....
No need for LSD when the traction control applies the brakes on the wheels that slip

wwest

Yes, and that's why the newer models have the ability to disable TC, so you can get UNSTUCK in those common conditions in which TC is a detriment....!!

And I notice Toyota now has two versions of TC, one for FWD and F/AWD and one for RWD and R/AWD. The Toyota RWD-R/AWD versions have a mode switch (sorry Ed..) wherein the more aggressive TC mode can be switched off in favor of a mode wherein a significant level of wheelspin can be sustained.

alywong

I've never seen this problem posted.I have a stock single cd sys.w/radio on several occasions my hand hits the shift throwing the car into neutral while going to change the radio stations anybody else have this problem what can i do bout this?

johnhw

I need an SUV which can comfortably hold 3 adults in the 2nd seat for a long trip. (Not tall or large adults.) I do not see which model has that option for seating, the pictures I've seen all show it with a captains chair seating for the 2nd row. I may end up getting a full sized SUV, QX56 most likely, for the room and comfort for a planned trip - 6 weeks or so with 5 adults, a small dog, 1 set of golf clubs, and associated luggage. I dont really like the extended length offered by GM and Ford in their longer full sized SUV's, and would like to go mid sized to get the full economy up versus the QX. I wish there was a diesel option other than the Mercedes GL which is a nice size and gets good economy but reliability reports from Consumers worry me considerably. Any advice on the seating question is appreciated. Thanks

slh54

The captains chairs convert to a third seat which is stowed under the console in the front seat. Kind of a neat design if you don't need to seat 3 in the second seat all the time. However, as much as I love my 08, I would NOT want to take a very long trip in it with 3 adults in the second row! I don't know where you'll put all the luggage (unless on the roof), in which case, with the 3rd row seating, you might have plenty of room, even for the dog!

johnhw

Thanks for the comments on the seating, is that true of the seating in the '07 as well are are you familiar with it? I have a small dog which usually sits in my wife's lap so the third row seats will be folded down for luggage and golf clubs. Do you believe the middle seat in the 2nd row would be more comfortable than the third row for an adult? Also if I had one of the third row seats up, is there a good amount of storage for golf and luggage? I dont really want to put luggage on the roof, too hard to get it up and down every few days for a retired guy of 60 and dont like the fuel economy impact either.

Thanks

slh54

I have had my car for 2 1/2 months and have had the 3rd seat down the entire time. I haven't even tried to climb back there - but you do have my curiousity piqued! When I was researching this car I kept reading that the 3rd row seating was comfortable and easy to get to, even for adults. I would think it would be more comfortable to sit in the third row than have 3 in the second row, but that's just me. I hate to say I don't even know if the 3rd row has split seating to allow for the length of golf clubs, etc. I don't know if any of this is true for the 07. Sorry I'm not much help. I can say I'm pleased with the mileage (coming from a Tahoe especially) and I'm getting ready to take it on the first real road trip so anxious to see what kind of mileage I can really get. It is a very comfortable car, from the driver and passenger standpoint at least.

johnhw

Thanks so much for your comments, more helpful than you realize. let me know how the road trip goes/

jimmy2x

FWIW - the 3rd row seating in the '08 is one-piece. Some folks are unhapppy about this - we don't care as I cannot ever envision any need for it and we'll fold it flat the day we get it. It likely will not ever rise again.

jackmick656

Just want to give a five year report on my 03 HL. My HL is a V6 2 WD. I used my warranty one time to replace cracked front mud guards and they are cracked again. Other than that this vehicle has been perfect. I only have 33,000 on the OD and the original tires are still running smooth ( Goodyear Integrity ). This HL is still smooth and quiet on the road and has no rattles or vibrations. I have never bothered with the 30,000 mile check up, I use the maintenance manual as a guide and do the maintenence items as they come due. I don't have an extended warranty either. So that is my HL's story, would like to hear from other 03 original owners out there if you would care to respond. Thanks.

nimrod99

I had a 03 LTD AWD Highlander
I traded it at 121,000 miles
my front mud flaps also cracked at 30,000 and 60,000, and 100,000
I have them replaced under warranty at 30,000 However, the dealer treated me like a criminal when I explained that it was due to driving at freeway speeds (air pressure flexing the mud flap) and not me driving off-road. I called Toyota to inform them that almost every Highlander on the road has torn / cracked front mud flaps and it was a design defect. I paided for my own replacements at 60,000 and 100,000
I changed my own timing belt at 85,000 miles (don't trust dealer mechanics to work on my car, has too many bad experiences) Changed my own spark plugs (V6) at 100,000.
Changed my front and rear diff fluids at 50,000 and 100,000 using synthetic Mobil 1 75-90 W oil.
Changed my engine oil every 5,000 miles using Mobil 1 synthetic oil 5w-30 (with genuine Toyota oil filters)
Changed my cabin air filter every 30,000 miles
Changed my intake air filter every 15,000 miles

Got rid of the factory tires at 30,000 and went to Michelin LTX MS, which lasted 60,000 (replaced at 90,000 with the same) Michelin LTX are awesome, great in the rain and snow, quite and handle well on dry roads.

Replaced my original 03 tail light assemblies with an 04 style as I liked the look of ther red "star cluster" brake lamps

Used a Garmin Street Pilot 2720 to navigate

nimrod99

forgot to mention
I replaced my front rotors at 40,000 and at 90,000 (due to rotor warp)
Also replaced pads at the same time

jackmick656

Thanks a lot for your response, looks like I have a ways to go before I have any major maintenance to do. I am going to keep your messages for future maintenance needs, thanks again.

nimrod99

I would invest in the 2003 toyota service manual.
I still have mine, maybe I'll post it on eBay

jackmick656

I have the long life (red) coolant in my HL and the maintenance manual calls for a change at 30,000. Should I follow that schedule? Thanks.