Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
That would normally indicate that in the OD gear ratio the engine is JUST BARELY producing enough drive torque. If it didn't do THAT before then the indication would be that the K&N resulted in lowering the engine torque in OD.
Or maybe the oil wicking off the K&N has contaminated the MAF/IAT sensors as very often happens with K&N.
BTW, I don't notice any difference in engine noise.
There's a balance between maximum air flow to the engine and protection against contaminants. Some filters do a good job at maximizing both. Others such as the K&N will trade off a little protection for greater air flow.
At the recommended service intervals, the engine oil can handle the increased contaminants allowed by the K&N and others like it. These filters are designed to allow more air when the engine wants it such as during maximum acceleration or WOT or whatever you want to call it. They are not designed for engine protection as much as for engine performance. For protection, stick with the paper.
I have a 2005 that has had that happen twice. The first time I only had about 6000 miles on it and I took it to a tire store. They replaced the tire (it is the Michelin Energy) for about $100 total. The second time I had about 25K miles on the car and what I had them do is replace that tire and then put the spare (which was still new) on the other wheel, so again just $100. With the two new tires and rotations I am close to 40K miles now and still looking good.
FINALLY found it (not yet fixed it tho): it's the plastic cowling in the back of the steering wheel, behind the airbag, around the column.
Since it doesn't happen often, I'm putting off disassembly of the steering wheel because I've never dealt with airbags and heard the scare stories.
Anybody have suggestions?
Phil
Radio rattle is the worst problem I have had with my Kluger (Highlander) and ultimately traced to a loose nut actually insude the radio cassette/CD unit. Replaced under warranty. Suggest getting someone else to drive and localise noise from there. You can usually get an engine stethoscope from a good auto parts dealer which does help locate odd rattles
Cheers
Graham
Then I noticed a little yellow leaf under the very end of the passenger-side windshield wiper. I hadn't used the wipers for 3 days, and when I got rid of the leaf the "rattle" stopped.
It sounds pretty dumb, of course, but it takes only a few seconds to check for a flapping leaf.
Why in the world would Toyota change the set-up of this? The switches used to be separate and at least to me, it seems like they should be separate. Does anyone know any work-arounds?
Thanks.
With FWD or F/AWD the only possible technique is the e-brake use.
Regards, BGood
Think of the way a tractor/trailer rig driver might use "drag" braking in this situation.
And keep in mind that even with slight braking at the rear one must be quick to recognize a skid or overstear resulting from same and crank in some corrective control at the front.
Regards, BGood
thanks, rich
I was right all along. The Highlander is 50:50 torque split
But there would be absolutely no market for an LSD, Limited Slip Differential, for the rear wheels if the torque distribution REMAINED 50/50 in all driving conditions.
But we all know that to be a HUGE market...
Leaves one to wonder why, doesn't it...??
No need for LSD when the traction control applies the brakes on the wheels that slip
And I notice Toyota now has two versions of TC, one for FWD and F/AWD and one for RWD and R/AWD. The Toyota RWD-R/AWD versions have a mode switch (sorry Ed..) wherein the more aggressive TC mode can be switched off in favor of a mode wherein a significant level of wheelspin can be sustained.
Thanks
I traded it at 121,000 miles
my front mud flaps also cracked at 30,000 and 60,000, and 100,000
I have them replaced under warranty at 30,000 However, the dealer treated me like a criminal when I explained that it was due to driving at freeway speeds (air pressure flexing the mud flap) and not me driving off-road. I called Toyota to inform them that almost every Highlander on the road has torn / cracked front mud flaps and it was a design defect. I paided for my own replacements at 60,000 and 100,000
I changed my own timing belt at 85,000 miles (don't trust dealer mechanics to work on my car, has too many bad experiences) Changed my own spark plugs (V6) at 100,000.
Changed my front and rear diff fluids at 50,000 and 100,000 using synthetic Mobil 1 75-90 W oil.
Changed my engine oil every 5,000 miles using Mobil 1 synthetic oil 5w-30 (with genuine Toyota oil filters)
Changed my cabin air filter every 30,000 miles
Changed my intake air filter every 15,000 miles
Got rid of the factory tires at 30,000 and went to Michelin LTX MS, which lasted 60,000 (replaced at 90,000 with the same) Michelin LTX are awesome, great in the rain and snow, quite and handle well on dry roads.
Replaced my original 03 tail light assemblies with an 04 style as I liked the look of ther red "star cluster" brake lamps
Used a Garmin Street Pilot 2720 to navigate
I replaced my front rotors at 40,000 and at 90,000 (due to rotor warp)
Also replaced pads at the same time
I still have mine, maybe I'll post it on eBay