Chevy Camaro Maintenance and Repair

acfearing

I just bought a 85 Camaro and it is Idle is too slow. How do I adjust that? My family only knows how to adjust carburated motors. (please excuse spelling errors)

danlf4

I have an 85 stock camaro and have taken the 6cly out of and put a 350 into. I would like to run dual exhaust..has anyone done so and what might I expect..what is the best route to run pipes....also I put a fiberglass hood in place of the metal one..it seems to bind to the driver side just like the metal hood. When I lift I can hear the hood stress cracking..what can I do to make the hood rise easier.

bekynfrkme

HI I have a 1980 camaro that we are in the process of putting back on the road. We are sanding it down to the metal and was wandering if there is anything I NEED to put or CAN put on the metal , before priming it,???
If anyone has any advice to offer I would greatly appreciate it ........thanks becky

camaro94

I have just recently bought a 1994 camaro and it is in great condition, except the interior visors both driver and paeesnger side need to be replaced, and the middle console lid needs to be replaced as well. Does anyone know someplace, besides junkyards, that i can find these parts for a reasonable price?

camaro94

Becky,

No, you dont need to put anything on the metal, thats whaty the primer is for. As long as it is sanded down well all you need to do is add the primer. If you really want to do something before primering, you can wipe the body with a very thin coat of water. This will heplp the primer set in smoother, and will also pull up any dirt hat is still left on the car.

jayharold

Look at www.gmparts4less.com good luck

cynicalz28

depending on what parts need to be fixed it would save u alot of problems down the road to get replacement pnaels because bondo is a temporary fix but it is not somthing u wanna rely on all the time

numbersguy

A couple owners back, my '86 IROC was apperently stolen. The thief had busted open the steering column to get to the ignition. However, because of this the switch to turn on the high beams cannot function. (I'm assuming the high-beams are turned on by pulling back the turning signal arm).

What exactly is that piece called? I could probably order a replace ment cover/case/column if I just knew the technical name for it.

okko1

dimmer switch

ghost329

Hi i have an 84 camaro t- top. When I turn the vehicle on and press the exceleration it will rev up all the way and than begin to die off. I have to keep pressing the exceleration to keep it running.
I've changed out the spark plugs and fuel filter but it hasn't helped.

Anyone have any ideas

outlawfox13

Well I am super happy that my wife got me a camaro for my birthday, it is a 90 RS 305 with T-tops and a 5 speed. And I can fix most every thing wrong with it but I have never come across this issue before. The steering wheel is loose, it travels up and down about an inch ( only the wheel, and not left to right ). I read up on it a bit but I am not sure if tightening the 4 bolts after the tilt will fix it or not. Anyone have this problem before?

gsxrguy2008

Hey everyone i have a 98 camaro with the v6 in it. the car was running great ive had it for 4 months now. the other day i was driving home i was only a mile from my house i got to my street and my car jus shut off... i pushed it on my block and i thought the fuel pump went out.. i left it there all day and came to check on it about 8 hours later and it started right up? i drove it straight home about 4 blocks and parked it fer the weekend. yesterday morning again it started right up so i let it run while i took a shower came out and it was off and wouldnt start again? does anyone have any idea why it might do this? :sick:

kath202000

where is the flasher for the turn signals located - or is there one?

Thanks,
Kathy

Mr_Shiftright

The fuse panel is located behind the left hand side of the instrument panel. The hazard warning flasher is located behind the instrument panel to the right of the steering column, in the convenience center. The turn signal flasher on 1989 models is located behind the instrument panel, clipped to the right hand side of the steering column bracket. On 1990-92 models, the turn signal flasher is located behind the left hand side of the instrument panel, clipped to the fuse block bracket.

Visiting Host

pintoz

I have a 91 iroc that has a 383 stroker, i need a tranny for her b/c 2nd is goin out! any ideas or anything?

Mr_Shiftright

I think a more modern GM overdrive transmission would be great. You'd certainly improve your fuel mileage. Of course you have to figure out the electronic shifting controls, etc.

him1984

ok i have a 89 camaro with a 2.8l v6. i just bought it got it home and have to reassemble the engine. its stripped down to the block. all the parts are here and i got new gaskets and sealants. not sure exactly where all the parts go. is there a manual or blueprint on where everything goes? if so anyone have a link. ive been searching for a week or so now just to come to deadends. please help me.

okko1

i think i would take it to the machine shop and spend a few hundred and get it assembled. :confuse:

monicachassis

I have a 94 Z28 Camaro. It back fires and chugs while driving it around town but when you put your foot into it it's fine. We have changed the plugs and wires, distrubitor cap, fuel filter, put 4 different mass air flow sensors on, and we have took it to eight different mechanics and all they say is plugs and wires. When you hook it up to a scan tool it reads mass air flow. The EGR is been disconnected. It has magnaflow exhaust. We put fuel additive in it everytime we fuel in addition to premium gas. We have put a new battery in it. We are at our wits ends with this if anyone could help it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

lonedraak

i recently perchased a 1982 camaro and the windshield wipers make 2 very loud and distinct knocking noises each cycle when i turn them on one going up and one coming back any ideas on what could be causeing this i cant see anything that would be hitting them

Mr_Shiftright

probably worn control arm bushing in the wiper armature, or loose arms, or a loose wiper motor. I think you are hearing the binding sound of mis-alignment during rotation. Think "dislocated shoulder".

68camaro09

i am changing a 3 speed auto to a 4 speed standard in a 68 camaro. i was wondering what parts i need to buy to make this a succesful switch

Mr_Shiftright

www.muscle-factory.com sells a complete conversion kit for $269 bucks. (not including the transmission, shifter, bell housing and starter of course).

rdrfan08

I have a 99 Camaro, 6 cylinder, and the radiator needs to be replaced. I'm thinking about doing it myself. Any tips/suggestions?

Mr_Shiftright

Should pretty much be a nut and bolt job. Might be good to pick up a workshop manual from library or eBay or Amazon, just in case there's some little snag in there. Things to pay attention to are:

1. Putting back the right kind of anti-freeze
2. Bleeding the system properly of air
3. Replacing other parts that are now easy to get at. (belts, hoses, thermostat, water pump?)

4. Capturing spilled fluids, like automatic transmission fluid if your car is automatic. (cooler lines from trans to radiator).

Visiting Host, just dropping in :shades:

ckamen

I have a 1997 camaro and the drivers side door handle will not open the door. How do I replace or fix the problem so I don't have to keep climbing through the passenger side? It has manual locks and windows so hopefully this can be an easy fix.
Any help will be appreciated, thanks to all and Happy Thanksgiving

TNT_RACING03

I just bought a 94 camaro and i have been having trouble starting it, it usually takes 5-10 minutes to start. it turns over just fine but it wont fire. I just put new plugs in it. anyone have any ideas on what the problem could be?

thanks,Tim

elias

ignition problems on the v8 fourth-gens seem to always relate to either MAF or Opti-spark. disconnecting the maf is one possible test. there may have been a few years/engines that were without-MAF too, fwiw.
i am not aware of a good way to test the optispark without swapping it.

for a starting problem, avoid anything but lowest recommended octane gas -
premium gas makes it harder to start.

for the door issue like that, probly ya gotta take off the inner door panel and maybe see what's disconnected/broken ? personally i am unable to remove a panel without significant unintended entropy resulting, but hopefully you will do better.

ls14evers

either by the headlight switch or on the right side of the steering column

ls14evers

sounds like you might be experiencing gm's vats system. if you have another ignition key try that one for awhile. if crank but no start doen't return the resistor of the first key has intermittent problem.

ls14evers

if your experiencing intermittent extended crank time try this little trick.
if your a/c relay is the same as the fuel pump relay swap them. if your extended crank time goes away. replace the relay that you put in the a/c slot. gm has a fail safe system like if you are low on oil it won't start up right away. it also limits off the fuel pump. the reason it cranks so long is because it takes a moment for the oil sender to see oil pressure. when it does see oil pressure the relay opens then the motor wil start.

ls14evers

check the fuel pump relay. swap it with another relay on the panel. make sure they are the same numbers. if your problem goes away replace the relay you swaped over to the a/c. if it was a problem with the opti-spark a scanner would pick it up.

mike7295

I have a z28 that a friend gave to me as a gift last year. It has 130,000, in great shape, never had a problem until now. Last week I was driving about 1 mile and the car shut off. I cranked it but it wouldn't start. So I waited a few minutes. Then I turned the key, the car started, I got about 500 feet and it stopped again. My friend mechanic told me it needed a fuel pump, so i told him go ahead. After that the car has the 41 plus pounds of presure, which is right on, but the car has the same problem. I can drive it 1 mile, and it will shut off, or I can drive it 10 miles, and it will stop running. Today I let idle for 20 minutes, not prolem. Is there any one with the same problem that can help, I want to drive my car, but I just don't trust how far I can go.

chevyguy57

I have trouble with the car, it will idle but when I rev the motor it dies out. I changed the fuel filter and the mass air flow sensor. It is still doing the same thing

chevyguy57

hey mike did you ever get the car running right, I am having the same problem

elias

I recommend to consider swapping the optispark - they weren't so reliable for those ~1995 cars as I recall.

ihavtats29

i failed the hydro carbon portion of the city emisions inspection yesterday with hydro carbons at 541 ppm and it needs to be 220 ppm or less , i replaced plugs , wires , cap and rotor , pcv valve and changed the oil , took it in for a retest this morning and failed agian with a 340ppm , so i replaced the egr valve , checked for error codes , and replaced a dry rotted vacum line , took it back in and it went back up to a 540, what is going on with this car , it only has 102,000 miles and it passed last year with flying colors, also why would the hydro carbon level go back up? and what do i need to do to get it down to passing levels? is the catylitic coverter possibly bad?

robb1388

My 1995 Z28's T-top lever(s) (both sides) have become stiff. I'm worried about breaking something when placing them on or removing them from the car. What's the best lubricant to use to loosen things up without causing damage? Would GUNK Liquid Wrench Penetrating oil be right for the job?

charlie74

I own an '86 Camaro and recently tarted to have a problem with the door locks. Initially, the drivers side door opened normally but when I went to shut it,the latch mechanism (a sort of "U" shaped rotating part) would not turn to engage the pin (i.e. let the open "U" over the pin) on the door frame...so the latch just bangs against the pin. Next, I violated my usual principle of "if it aint broke.... etc", I played with the passenger door and, to my dismay, managed to rotate the "U" part of the latch backward so that now it also is stuck in a position where that door also won't shut. If anyone (even another GM model owner) has any ideas how to free up this mechanism - preferably w/o disassembling the door trim - I would be eternally grateful.

ut_camaro_guy

Hi all,

Just bought a 1992 Camaro RS 3.1 v6, and am going to have to some serious work to it. Thought I'd join the forum for tips and advice as I go....i'm the purest of definitions of "backyard mechanic" so any and all advice is welcome.

Question 1 for the day: The car was apparently in an accident at some time, and the front end is shifted approx 3/4 of and inch to the right. What's the best way to replace / repair this. can it even be straightened out? My understanding of the build is with the uni-body frame, I'm probably just looking at fender supports. (The engine and components except for the radiator appear perfectly in line, right where they should be....) Suggestions?!?

Mr_Shiftright

Well first thing you should do is go on an alignment machine and see if the car can even be made to go in a straight line. If the entire body is "crabbed" and alignment isn't possible, just get rid of the car.

If the car can be aligned, then your problems are strictly sheet metal, and strange as it sounds, some basic wrench work and a short handled 3 lb sledge hammer will do the job---presuming you know better as to not start hammering on plastic or thin metal bracing, but rather only on main, hidden, structural supports such as bumper braces or radiator sub-framing. Another alternative is to rent a portable hydraulic tool that has attachments for bending, pushing, etc. this way and that, and is able to get into small spaces.

ut_camaro_guy

Hey,

Thanks for the info! Now I'm a bit nervous, but still optimistic. As best as I can by eyeballing it, the underframe itself appears to be in a straight line, so I'm hoping it's as you said, sheet metal, a hammer, and a few new parts should do the trick. I'd hate to think that I paid for something that I'm just going to have to get rid of. I'm taking it to the shop to get an alignment this week, so I'll post and let you know the outcome.....

Thanks for replying! I think I'm going to like it here!

Sean

trail03

The car drove fine after I changed the waterpump and thermostat and the holes drove for 2 days and on the third day it started to heat up so I pulled over and let the water out waited 5 mins and then drove the car home and it stayed at 180 degrees the normal temp is between 180 and 210 can anyone tell me what to do can it be the radiator need a good clean out :confuse:

Kirstie_H

A reporter is looking to speak to a recent buyer or a current shopper of a Chevy Camaro, Dodge Challenger Ford Mustang or Nissan 370Z . Please send your daytime phone number to ctalati@edmunds.com by Tuesday, November 10, 2009.

Thanks,
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Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com

trail03

can some one tell me where does the tps go on a 99 camaro 3.8l engine

Mr_Shiftright

The TPS is mounted to the front of the throttle body.

trail03

CAN SOME ONE TELL ME IF THIS TYPE OF CAR COMES WITH OR WITHOUT FIRM ON THE RACKING PINION AND HOW CAN YOU TELL

thirdgennewie

Ok here's where we are at. No fuel pump signal to the relay while starting. 10.8v between the orange and gray wires on the FP relay connector when ignition switch is in the on or off position but no start. If I jump gray wire at connector with known good 12v supply the FP runs and car starts. When I measure volts between Orange and gray wire with the car running I get 12v. Disconnected the OPSU, 3 wire, red,yellow,black, and tried to start. Nothing. Jumped and measured voltage at red and black wires at OPSU (2.4v) and nothing. Relay is good. FP fuse is good. Where should I look next? Seems like I am not getting a signal to prime the FP.

elias

10.8V sounds way too low and your testing agrees with that.
Shouldn't it be 12V in that case?
And with engine running, shouldn't it be about 13.8V ?
If you agree voltage is too low, maybe consider why. Swap in a new battery to see if problem disappears?
Also there could be voltage drop across a corroded wire. No idea if recent camaros are susceptibles, but 3rd-gens could experience corrosion of the wire that goes from battery positive post to starter/solenoid. if there is excessive voltage drop across that wire or on the battery-post or starter-solenoid-post, I understand that will cause the entire electrical system of the car to see reduced voltage at startup-time. If this is what's happening, running a parallel wire (one jumper cable) from battery positive post to starter positive post may be a workaround. careful with that - you'll be handling a "hot" lead in that case.

fuddodge

my 1995 z28 has been acting weird for a month now in the mornings i start it and let it warm up be for work for about ten minutes drive it about 4 miles to the store runs great shut it off after about 5 minutes try to start again but wont start after a couple of tries it finaly cranks but is missing very bad and smoking have to rev it up just to keep it running after a few minutes of doing this it clears up, some times it does it while driving thought it might be something in the gas put slick 50 injector cleaner in it, it ran great for 1 day then started doing it again,never had this happen before,please help

member47

Anyone know where I can find the ECU/ECM connector plugs for a 2002 Camaro?