I had my engine rebuilt it worked good for 2 days but for some reason the oil pump works for a little bit but then it goes low on pressure i had my mechanic put a another one and it is still doing the same thing can some one help me to figure this problem. The car drives fine it just that it looses pressure in the oil tank. It starts at 60 and then it goes to 20 after a good drive.
I once had something similar happen to me only to find that the oil filter was a problem. Half the holes were not holes, but were solid so the oil couldn't pass through. May be worth the effort to replace the oil filter (a few dollars) to rule it out. Good luck.
Well the oil pump does not determine oil pressure, only oil flow. The tightness of your bearing clearances determines oil pressure for the most part. I suspect, just on a guess, that something might be wrong with your rebuild; other possibilities would be a bad oil sending unit (false reading) or a stuck oil pressure relief valve (behaving as if the oil filter were clogged).
Always good to check the simpler things first but given how the oil pressure drops as the engine warms up---that's not a good sign, and it eliminates things like too thick an oil in a cold engine causing air to be sucked into the oil pump. That would cause low oil pressure from the get-go.
well i just purchased the timing housing for my 99 camaro the one i had was damaged where the oil pump goes. hope this fixes the problem with the car :confuse:
The tightness on the bearing clearances determines oil pressure where are those located at i did not put the engine together. Everything in the car is new the cover housing the pump oil,filter,and the oil is 10-30. I realy need help
Turns out the sensor was know good. There was no problem with the rebuilt so I had my machanic put in a sunpro gage to monitor the oil on my car. I drove the car all day and have not had a problem so for the gage reads at 30 on idle and 40 to 60 on a good drive.
My daughter was given a 1990 Chevy Camaro for her 16th birthday. this car was my moms car and my mom passed away so this has a ton of sentimental value. When we got it the fuel pump was bad. so we changed the fuel pump. it ran for a year and it has died now. We have replaced the ECM, fuel pressure regulator, spark control sensor, fuel filter, and put another fuel pump in it. all of this checked out bad but we cannot get the car to run. we checked the catalytic converter. it check out fine. we are about to check and make sure the timing is right. What else could it be?
So did you check for spark and for fuel and for injector pulse?
You can check for spark easily enough with a simple spark tester from an auto parts store.
For fuel,you can check by squirting some starter fluid into the air cleaner and seeing if the engine catches for a few seconds. If it does, you have a fuel issue
The injector pulse can be checked with, again, a simple tool called NOID light.
"jumping time" would be a very unlikely last guess.
So until you can check off those three tests, you're operating in the dark here.
We have checked the fuel with the started fluid. that is what lead us to check the fuel pump which was about 10 PSI short on pressure. we have checked the injectors with the NOID light. We havent replaced anything that didnt check to be bad. but dont know where to go from here
What about spark? If you have spark and fuel it has to run---maybe not well, but if you are certain you have spark, and you have fuel, and you have injector pulse, and it still won't run, then you have internal issues (loss of compression).
Why that would happen suddenly, I don't know. Perhaps a compression test is in order.
If compression is good, then go over everything again. You may have missed something.
Well if you said you tested for injector pulse, then perhaps not a bad TPS---I mean, if you are getting "base pulse" at start, with throttle essentially closed. I suppose you could vary the throttle opening to see if you still get injector pulse as you wiggle the throttle. There are ways to test the TPS and even adjust them (some of them) but you'll need the workshop manual and the proper equipment. It's a $60 part or so, and without testing, just a guess at this point.
Frustrating, I know. Diagnostic equipment and codes could be a big help here.
I have a 91 camero 6 cyl and sometimes it acts like it is out of gas and then dies. Before it dies, I tried to give it more gas and it does not register the attempt. It still sputters lightly and then dies. It does not over heat and oil pressure is good. I let it sit a while and it will start up... for a while ( the problem is- for how long? ). I really need some help with this one. I've gotten so many different answers from shops with horrible prices to JUST TAKE A LOOK. Can anyone help me narrow this down?
I kind of sounds like "running but not running" problem. I really haven't had too much trouble till yesterday and it took me 2.5 hours to get home only 10 miles away. Help Plz.
1st guess is: catalytic converter is very clogged, requiring replacement or removal. (removing it or "gutting it" with a coathanger are both illegal for on-road use, but would quickly validate whether this guess is correct.)
2nd guess: fuel filter clogged or fuel pump failing.
I have a new ZL1 ordered and already GM is starting their BS with this model. I received a call today from my dealer that said the carbon fiber hood insert is now on hold and not available. I suspect they have encountered some problems with this particular option even before it begins full scale production. I guess it's better to find out now than later but it was an option that I was looking forward to. Has anybody out there heard any reason behind them putting a hold onthis option. Of course my dealer rep. had no idea.
it's been common with previous camaros & new models for some options to be unavailable/shortages early in production run. did dealer ask you if you would like to wait as long as it takes for the hood to be available? also, dealer should have let you drop the carbon hood from the order, so your car could be produced right away, if that's what you prefer.
The one issue I have with my 2011 1LT is that the seat back latches are really tough to use. After the dealer working on it, I can finally use the passenger seat latch but the driver's side is really hard - basically impossible for me - to use. Has anyone had a similar issue who found a solution they could share with me? The car is a year old and while I will probably almost never have a back seat passenger, it would be nice to be able to access the back seat from the driver's side. Otherwise it is an amazing car, no regrets on the purchase.
Comments
So did you check for spark and for fuel and for injector pulse?
You can check for spark easily enough with a simple spark tester from an auto parts store.
For fuel,you can check by squirting some starter fluid into the air cleaner and seeing if the engine catches for a few seconds. If it does, you have a fuel issue
The injector pulse can be checked with, again, a simple tool called NOID light.
"jumping time" would be a very unlikely last guess.
So until you can check off those three tests, you're operating in the dark here.
Why that would happen suddenly, I don't know. Perhaps a compression test is in order.
If compression is good, then go over everything again. You may have missed something.
Let us know about the spark test.
Frustrating, I know. Diagnostic equipment and codes could be a big help here.
I kind of sounds like "running but not running" problem. I really haven't had too much trouble till yesterday and it took me 2.5 hours to get home only 10 miles away. Help Plz.
1st guess is: catalytic converter is very clogged, requiring replacement or removal. (removing it or "gutting it" with a coathanger are both illegal for on-road use, but would quickly validate whether this guess is correct.)
2nd guess: fuel filter clogged or fuel pump failing.