Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

burosky

I had a 2001 Disco II SE7 (ACE) with 38K miles. Due to necessity I had to trade it in for another car. :-( I was able to get $18.5 for it. Kelly Blue Book had the trade-in value at a little over $19K. ">Since I bought extended warranty when I purchased it, I am now working on getting some kind of refund for the unused portion of the extended warranty. For what it's worth, I paid $1900 for the same coverage back in 2001. The dealer used CNA National Warranty Corporation as the provider for the extended warranty.

nanuq

On my Disco Series I it's pretty easy. It takes a big Torx bit, and ratchet. A couple of the Torx screws are tough to get at so you almost need a spanner to fit the hexagonal Torx shaft... monkey with it for awhile and you'll get it.

Make sure not to lose the dished washers, those eliminate the rattle in the jumpseat linkage once it's put back together.

FWIW, I found my jumpseats at a wrecking yard and put them in myself. It was a one-afternoon job. They're very useful and kids love to ride back there!

4004

we are looking for an used diesel fuel tank or another cheep solution of exchange for our defect Landrover Discovery, 5 doors, 2495ccm, year 2002.
In Germany we have to pay Euro 680,- for a new one. Original part number is: ESR4672
We would be pleased to here from You in case You could help us, may be just mailing an idea where to ask for it in UK.
Thank You and best regards
Jürgen Dieterich

ggushee

So the end result is.....THE ACE PUMP MAKES A NOISE ALL THE TIME.....Land Rover Encino technician Mike told me that my sound isn't a WHINING, but a WAAAAAAAWA.....who knew...and it is constantly working....so one just has to get use to it...as many of you said...or turn up the radio.....the ACE is coming back on the NEW LR sport...it will not have the same WAAAAwa noise. Thanks, Gordon

miller428

You obviously know the car and at that price, compared to what it would be at a dealer, is a steal!!!

miller428

On my 2001 Discovery II SE7 the left horn button popped up and when I took it off the tip of one of the 4 prongs was broken. Then a week or so later my right horn button popped off completely and I've never been able to find it. I contacted British Pacific, but they want $91.00 for the horn assembly. Does anyone know of a source for just the buttons, at a tad less than 91 bucks, not counting shipping?? Don't get me wrong, British Pacific is a great place to do business! We LOVE or Land Rover!

rover2

I need some info please! I have a 02 Disco II, I just bought a 3500lb. TT. The dealer said I need a weight distribution kit, but the owners manual said do not use the weight dist. Does anyone pull a 3500lb trailer and what type of hitch work do you have. Thank you

discoman

I have a 1996 Disco 1 and have been using it to tow for years. I recently cross-countried from Seattle to Jacksonville, FL towing a 12 x 6 U-haul loaded with over 3000lbs of stuff. Total weight around 5000lbs. No modifications, and also no problems. More recently I use it to tow my 5200 lb boat on a 680 lb aluminum trailer. Loads down the back some, and could probably use some air shocks to lift it, and wouldn't want to do it over a long distance, but also no problems. All I use it for is to take it around 100 yds from the storage lot to the ramp. But if I needed to It would do fine. Relax, you have a 7700 lb tow capacity (5500 in high gear) The only thing I did to tow the boat was change the ball and ball mount to a 2 5/16" 6000 lb instead of the 2" 5000lb ball and ball mount that is most common.

nudis

this is the first land rover i bought it's a 96 discovery but i am having trouble getting it into 4 wheel drive and i don't have the owners manual nor am i sure what any of the buttons the dashboard do is there a locking mechinism that keeps it in 2wd i assume there is but i'm not quite sure anyone with information please help me :confuse:

LandRoverOwner

You are always in 4wd. The lever puts you between 4hi & 4low.

odiopus

I have ACE in my 2001 Disco and I don't hear the whining noise?? I must have poor hearing or maybe I just got used to it.

I had a persistent problem withthe horm buttons getting stuck and coming off for about 2 months, then it was fixed permanently. Your warranty should cover this type of repair.

Has anyone noticed excessive wind noise from any of the doors, I have replaced the weather stripping and had the doors adjusted and I still hear the wind noise. Any suggestions?

Odiopus

discoman

Nudis

I have a 96 Discovery also. Lets see how I can help.

In order to shift from AWD to 4WD all you do is shift the differential shifter (the front one) to the right. You will notice a little orange picture light on the instrument panel. This means you have locked the differential and are now in 4WD. If you need to shift to 4WD LOW you will have to slow to 5 Mph or less, and put the transmission in NEUTRAL, then put the differential shifter all the way forward, and shift back into DRIVE, and you are now in LOW 4WD, you can shift into LOW AWD by moving the shifter to the right. Follow this procedure in reverse to go back into HIGH.

As for the buttons on the dash. The one with a picture of a bridge that is under the clock is the master switch for the Cruise Control. You have to have it on for the Cc to work. then pull(not push) the set button to set your speed. If it doesn't engage, look under the hood on the left side for the vacuum hose and make sure it isn't leaking.(Mine was) easy 5 minute repair you can do with a knife. On the left of the Instrument binnacle are in order top to bottom: Rear defrost, Rear fog light, radio volume up and radio volume down. Right side: Rear window washer, rear wiper, Radio seek, radio mode. Your best bet is going to see if you can find an owner's manual on e-bay, or the workshop manual CD. Usually they come with an owners manual on it too, and you can print out what you need. :shades:

vdumas

Nudis

With regards to Land Rover 4 wheel drive, you should do a search and read up on how differentials work and all the other tech stuff to understand what goes on. Most people believe AWD and 4WD mean the engine turns all 4 wheels all the time, but the reality is that you can get into a situation where you are in 4 wheel drive, but are stuck because one wheel has no traction. Engaging the differential lock on your truck will divide power equally between your front and rear, so now if one front wheel has no traction and one rear wheel has no traction, only then are you stuck. Hard core off roaders will put additional locks on the front and rear - this is the only way to get equal power to each wheel all the time. Not many vehicles have a center differential lock, be happy you have it, it comes in handy sometimes

sknabel

I recently got a lightweight kayak so I could load it myself on and off my Discovery. I am shopping for a roof rack and would like to know if anyone has any reccomendations for me. The roof rack on the Discovery is on the front of the roof, which makes loading from the back impossible. I did not want to spend a fortune for the side load Thule rack and am looking for another option. Thanks for any suggestions.

stever

Tossing canoes and kayaks on racks is tougher than it looks; if the weight doesn't get you, the unwieldliness of the boat will (and I have a busted side mirror to show for it).

I like dragging my boat to the back of my van and picking up the bow and resting it on the rear edge, then picking up the stern. I'm not familiar with the Disco's rack, but maybe if you stick a towel on the paint, when you pick up the stern, hopefully the bow will then reach the rear rack and you can slide it forward without having to slide it on the towel.

They also make rack attachments that have a rod that pulls out, so you would pull out the rod on the front rack, prop the bow on it, and then lift the rear of the kayak onto the rear bars. Then move the bow over and slide the extension bar back in.

If you have a garage, you can buy pulley systems that allow you to store your kayak from the garage ceiling and lower it onto the Disco. When you get to the water, you flag down a passer-by or fellow boater and get help getting the boat on and off. Back home you crank it back up to the ceiling by yourself.

A good boat shop or kayak club should be able to help or you can try some kayaking suppliers like Cascade Outfitters or Northwest River Supplies. The rack stuff sure isn't cheap though.

Check out Roof racks, Bike Racks and Cargo Carriers (OEM, Thule, Yakima) too.

Steve, Host

landlady

please help! did you ever get this problem fixed? i've got the same problem today...thanks :sick: :sick: :sick:

landlady

i've got this same problem today...i searched all the messages on this subject...where is the multifunction switch and is it something i can change or do i have to go to a repair shop? also what does the transmission lock switch on the brake pedal look like and where is it? i don't have brake lights either...thanks for any info you can give...thanks

bradesp

Can someone give me a quick list of differences between the Discvoery SD and SE models for years 00' thru 02'.

Thanks!

bradesp

rszanto

Hello, I am a highschool student looking to invest in a Land Rover as my first car. The problem is not deciding on what SUV I want, but on how to convince my parents that the Land Rover Discovery II SE 7 (1999) is worth the investment. If you guys could help me by naming a couple of high (ie. good interior, nice ride)and lows points (ie. leaking fluids, maintnance costs) of a Land Rover it would be very appreciated. I really want to be driving a Land Rover, and any help in this worthy cause would be appreciated. I know all of you once had a first car, and I am really looking forward to mine no matter what it is.

rszanto

Forgot to add that the LR is $14,447, $2,000 under the Kelley Blue Book Value.

stever

Generally speaking, cars aren't investments - they are an expense. So you may want to focus on operating costs, reliability and safety as buzz words to convince a parent.

While waiting for responses in here, check out the estimated repair costs in the Edmunds Maintenance Guide.

And you may want to also check out Real-World Trade-In Values and What is the "Kelley Blue Book" Price?.

Steve, Host

rszanto

Could someone also check the VIN number of the vehicle please, it's SALTY1245XA212918. Thanks for the help so far.

LandRoverOwner

"In order to shift from AWD to 4WD all you do is shift the differential shifter (the front one) to the right. You will notice a little orange picture light on the instrument panel. This means you have locked the differential and are now in 4WD. If you need to shift to 4WD LOW you will have to slow to 5 Mph or less, and put the transmission in NEUTRAL, then put the differential shifter all the way forward, and shift back into DRIVE, and you are now in LOW 4WD, you can shift into LOW AWD by moving the shifter to the right. Follow this procedure in reverse to go back into HIGH. "

While the maneuvers you've listed are correct, the things they do are not!! There is no AWD on a Discovery. Just 4wd high and 4wd low. Yes, moving the lever left/right will lock the center differential. Do NOT drive on firm surfaces with the differential locked. You WILL cause massive damage. ONLY lock the differential if you are driving on very slippery surfaces without many turns. You are always in 4wd in a Discovery. Moving the lever up/down will put you in 4wd high/low. The lever is a transfer box selector. A transfer box is a 2nd transmission with 2 gears.

firerover

I am planning on buying a disco this week, is there anything I should check before I drive it off the lot. I know the usuall stuff what about stuff specific to the disco. it's a certified 02 SE for $21k. Is this vehicle worth it to ya

blckislandguy

"What kind of damage would a GM have sustained?" you ask.

None. It would have been at the dealers on a recall and not on the road.

vandy2004

I have a 2004 Discovery with 28,000 miles. I need to replace my front brake pads. I'm buying the pads from NAPA. Which pads should I buy - semi-metallic, metallic?

Also, Sears has brake tools; spring removers, pad compressors, etc. Which tools will make the job easier and which do I absolutely need to buy?

Thanks for any info>

Vandy

abraxas1

I recently changed mine and bought the metalics. I didn't use any extra tools. I used the socket wrench and claps to change mine. Took me about an hour on each end. I got my rotors from LandRover, couldn't really find anything cheaper unless I ordered it over the net and those with shipping would come to about the same price

2002 Disco SE Westminster

nanuq

Brakes on a Disco are ridiculously easy. If they're anything like mine, you can do a wheel in 15 minutes... almost blindfolded.

On my truck (Series I) no special tools are required. Needlenose pliers... spanner, wire brush... piece of cake.

Pull the cotter pins, slide out the two pad keeper pins. Pop out the old pads.

Use the wire brush to clean the area, then crack open the bleed screw and push the pistons back into the caliper... brake fluid squirts everywhere. Close the bleed screw before releasing pressure on the pistons so no air gets back in.

Slide in the new pads, insert the pad retainer pins, put in two new cotters... you're done.

I'm at 101,000 miles on my original rotors. If you use SOFT PADS you can make them last. Avoid metallic, get the cheap organic pads. Plan on replacing them every 15-20k miles. It's simple and fun.

bmk007

I am deciding between a 2002 Black Range Rover with 27K miles and a 2004 Discovery II SE7 with 20K miles on it. I have never owned a LR before, so I am looking forward to this.

Does anyone have any recommendation in either direction?

Thanks for your time.

abraxas1

I was in the same situation and went with the Disco. It has more room in the back for passengers, the 2004 has better suspension then the 2002 RR. Plus the 3rd row on a SE7 is nice, dual sunroofs, etc. and 30K left on warranty hopefully.

damncar

Don't get the Disco. I have one I'll give you. It is a 2000 with 30,000 miles. other than the usual, new brakes at 15,000, sunroof leaks, remote key works sometimes (they can't figure out why) and other $700 repairs my wife tells me she used it while i was out of town and several dash lights came on. Called the dealer blah, blah, blah new transmission for $7,000 needed. Warranty just expired. thrilling. i hate the car. the drivers side area is cramped, it rides rough etc... built for the Serengeti not Seattle. We also have a GMC Yukon XL - buy one of those. much better car, same miles, few problems.

bmk007

Thanks for the reply. I got 2 replies in this forum - one for the Discovery and one against - so I am back to where I started.

Sorry to hear about your issues. Best of luck to you.

landy

These vehicles both represent the bygone Sullihul era. They both have the 4.6 engine and are the end of each line before the Ford/BMW influences (for better or worse). I think better since this seems to mean Land Rover will survive (evidenced by the new LR3 and Range Rover Sport) where other marquees have since fallen (MG Rover). After 20 years of Japanese "reliability" I purchased a new 2004 HSE7 and am thrilled to report no trouble whatsoever. However, I cannot say my individual experience is the norm. Yet, since you seem bitten by the Land Rover bug, redirecting you to a sane purchase is nonaplicable. Enjoy whichever of these unique vehicles speaks best to you. Just remember how much more angry you would have been when the check engine light came on in the "Timex reliable" (accord/camry) vehicle you could have purchased it instead.

dookie496

i have a 94 land rover discovery and i have no power at the ignition coil at first it was a intermitent problem and now a perminent problem i dont work on land rovers to much so i was wondering if any one can point me in the right direction where to start Thanks

discoman

I don't care what anyone says. I have a 96 disco with 119,000 miles, that runs like the day it came from the factory and I will keep it forever. I have used and abused it, and it keeps on running strong. I have submitted it to all kinds of punishment. From Seattle and the Cascades, to Death Valley in the Summer. I towed a fuly loaded U-Haul 6X12 cross country, and over the rockies. I have used it to climb mountains and pull my 27 foot boat. It will never die. Yes, it isn't perfect. Maintenance must be done religiously, but can be accomplished by the average guy with a manual and some tools. Most of the time, you can even get the mechanics to troubleshoot it for you, and then do the repairs yourself. At least the guys at both LR Bellevue in Seattle and Matheney in Jacksonville, FL. I took some advice from Nanuq and "Drive it like I stole it". I would recommend the Disco, only because the 2004 Disco saw the return of the center locking differential that I have and went away with the Disco II up until '04. Here is a list of the problems I have had:
Intake manifold gasket
Spark Plugs
Alternator
Alternator cable
Battery (Recommend replacement with Optima Spiralcell Red Top)
Trailer light module
Various lamps and bulbs
Exhaust.( I replaced the old one with a Stainless Steel Borla, and got better power and fuel economy, plus it sounds really cool)
That's about it. I do recommend using K& N Air and oil filters and the standard spark plugs. I replaced the serpentine belt, and kept the old one for a spare.

nanuq

I hear ya. In the last six years, over countless winter camping trips at -30 to -40 and waist deep snow, and ridiculous hard offroad use, what has gone wrong with my Disco? Let's see...

* The viscous coupler died and took out the water pump.
* A lightbulb in the rear bumper burned out.
* I got a rock chip in my windshield.
* The battery finally died (must have been all the offroading that beat it to death)

There's got to be more. I mean... c'mon. It's a ROVER, right? (tongue in cheek) Seriously, that is all.

In the last 5 years what has gone wrong with my wife's Windstar minivan (driven slowly and carefully in town)?

* Timing cover gasket failure, mixing oil and water. Pull the engine.
* Torque converter seal failure, lost all trans fluid. Pull the engine.
* Differential failed. Pull the engine and replace the transmission.
* Axle failed. Finally didn't have to pull the engine.
* Front hub failed.
* Side and rear door sensors don't work, interior lights stay on forever.
* ABS failed.
* Cat converter failed.

They both get the same maintenance, and one of them lives a HARD life. The other is treated like a creampuff.

stever

Should have bought a Quest. Guess she doesn't drive it like she stole it. :shades:

Steve, Host
(And yeah, I saw the PFD number.)

vdumas

I'm with you guys - I have only owned my 94 for 6 months (103,000 miles) and so far it has been a dream. Never have I had such smooth sailing with a vehicle, and my last truck was a supposedly very reliable Toyota. My friends Ford Explorer and Suburban are always in the shop having things fixed, often at a nasty cost. I must say i do wonder why some people have such success stories with Rovers, where as others have such sad tales to tell. I am guessing it is probably that some rovers are better than others, and no doubt, some owners are better than others as well.....

donnielee

I have a 2000 Discovery II with 71,469 original miles. No off-road driving and great service record. On the same day at the same time, with 71, 247 miles showing, both the ABS Modulator AND the transmission failed!! Parts and labor have put a major dent in my retirement "extra cash". Is there a history of such failures for this vehicle? Bought it used from a reputable pre-owned car dealer. Had 68, 766 miles on it on date of purchase (April 27, 2005). Clean history. I'm more than a bit outraged that this vehicle would collapse like that - would have hated to have been on a safari as opposed to a local highway in Massachusetts.

phill27

I am noticing some sagging in my headliner. It is only in the front directly over both front doors. Has anyone attempted repairing this on their own? Can I simply "fix" the sagging areas? I am looking for input/ advice. I have been quoted $500 to replace. Is this fair?

nhdisco

I have a 96 Discovery with a weird tach. Every now and then, especially when cold, The Tach will just sit at 500 rpm and not move. After a few minutes, it will work normally. When I come to a stop, it will repeat this behavior. Also, if I turn on the blower, especially to high, that will often induce the same behavior.
I am thinking a voltage problem, but I really don't have a clue as to where to start.
Any ideas or similar experiences?

Thanx

nanuq

Search back thru these archives for my post about cleaning the fuse block beneath the hood. You use a pencil eraser to do it... simple job, 15 minutes.

It fixed all kinds of electrical weirdness for me. Good luck!

nhdisco

">I remember seeing that procedure. I looked at the fuse block and it seemed clean. Perhaps there is some unseen nastiness at the contacts. I will do it this weekend. I just got home from work, 07:30am, (yeah, I work the graveyard shift), and had no problems today. 36 degrees F, and a major rain event yesterday.
I did perform the LORD LUCAS incantation, maybe it helped!! LOL
Thanks for the response.

Ben

edwards3

I have a 2003 Discovery ll and the keyless entry dose not work. I changed the battery, still no good. Electric locks work find, so I thinking it is the remote (that is on the key its self). Is there some programming instruction that I can do myself or is the dialer my only option.
Thanks for any input
Ron (newbee)

abethlen

I will be moving to the northeast in the near future and was looking at selling my car and buying an SUV. I have always loved the Land Rover Discovery and am looking into buying a used one. I have heard mixed reviews about their reliability and would love to get comments from people in this forum.

*Is there a Discovery year or years that are more reliable and have less issues than others?
*What type of issues have Discovery owners experienced? Are they major or mostly minor?
*Any other pertinent information or tips that you guys might have I would really appreciate.

Thanks for your help!

Alex.

irerover

I too am having a problem w/ my navigation sys; I have a 02 disco II-love it! I just purchased it, went on EBAy and got a NAVTECH CD #6 to run my navigation sys.
Can anyone tell me if I purchased the wrong NAV CD? I put it into the cd slot and get Nada? When I made the purchase, the info on EBAy said this CD covers the eastern seaboard and it is compatable with, among other Euro vehicles, Disco II's.
I tried to "reset" my system to no avail...I'm out $70 and still no Nav sys.
Experienced Disco Nav Sys users please reply.

bludaizy

2000 Disc II overheated in March...replaced the headgaskets and valves....6 months later...overheated AGAIN...but hey...this time we found the leak...ok so should I buy new heads and all the gaskets or should I find a low mileage engine and replace all of it. From the dealer the heads and all the gaskets is around $1300.00...I found an engine with 16,000 miles with a 12 month parts and labor warranty for $3300.00 I'm open to suggestions and if anyone knows where to find a better price on parts.

blckislandguy

This is a no brainer. Call the Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association in the Chicago area and get the names of local AERA member shops in your area. Take your heads to one of them, have them rebuilt for say $200 per head, have them supply a set of gaskets and a thermostat, and have a local garage put the heads back on.

bludaizy

Not that easy....the heads were machined and new valves place in March...I can't reuse the same heads.

blckislandguy

Whoa! I must be missing something. Cylinder heads can be and are resufaced many times and valves used over and over. (Sometimes though reusing old valves is a false economy because the head rebuilder wants to maximize his labor in refacing an old valve rather than calling Sealed Power or Federal Mogul to buy new valves.)

If your LR dealer told you that the heads can't be reused because they are too thin (from resurfacing) ask him what the minimum head thickness spec is, who in his shop measured it, and what did they measure it to be. Maybe before you ask him this, you call the AERA, ask for their Tech Line and ask THEM what the minimum head thickness spec is. Something doesn't sound right. This is a very common, low tech job.