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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II



  • kacykkacyk Posts: 4
    I did buy the 2000 Disco. It's the Bright Red "Red Rover" edition. I did call the dealership and checked the warranty history by VIN number. This is very important for any used Disco purchase. The dealership can spot a lemon in a few key strokes.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Welcome, and congratulations! You're in for a long and pleasant experience with your Rover.

    First thing I'd do if I were you, I'd replace ALL the fluids on her. It's work you can easily do yourself, and you'll wind up with a LOT of lube to recycle. This gets you to a known point in the maintenance schedule. Then replace all the fluids once a year, and the motor oil and filter every 3k.

    I know this sounds like a lot, but a mechanic at the dealership here said it best: "oil is cheaper than metal".

    Transfer box, auto trans, diffs, swivel housings (I don't believe you have these anymore), brake fluid, power steering fluid (mine is ATF), coolant. You might go two years on the coolant.

    Rotate the tires front to back, and re-check the pressures when you're done: 28 front and 38 rear. While the wheels are off, take a look at the brake pads; mine last about 17k miles.

  • Nanuq:

    I really don't want a D1 for several reasons:

    I want a new vehicle. I have been burned too many times when buying used.
    I want the alphabet soup - for road use ABS and ETC can't be beat.
    I want the bigger engine and the better brakes of the '03.
    I do not plan to use the truck primarily as an off-roader. I just want the capability for those times the situation gets dicey back at the campsite.
    I intend to lift the truck and install bigger tires, as well as install tougher bumpers with better clearance, so the departure angle isn't critical for me.
    I just plain want a D2! With a CDL!!
  • Call me old fashioned, but I think a traction control should be either mechanical (such as locking diffs) or electronic (such as ETC). Fitting both to the same vehicle will either be a waste of money, or worse the 2 systems will work against each other and either reduce traction or break something. I have had 4 Discoveries now and the first 3 had CDL and the most recent ETC. I can say without reservation that ETC is a far far more effective traction tool. In the past the best offroad traction tool was simply knobbly offroad tyres. Now ETC can make a DII with road tyres "walk" through some situations that a DI with CDL and mud terrains would have failed.

    Landrover recognised all of that, which is why they disabled the CDL. They are only putting it back cos of demand from people who want "all the toys" even if some of them are now obsolete.

    Just my 2 pennies....
  • Maybe this is a stupid question, but I figure that somebody here will know the answer:

    Listening to a local radio program today, I heard a discussion about the success of the H2. One of the guys went on talking about a tax credit offered by the US government for buyers of vehicles 6000 lbs or over (apparently this qualifies them as "agricultural vehicles" and makes them available to a $15K credit on income taxes). They say that this brings down the cost of an H2 from $50K to $35K. Supposedly there are 40 or so makes/models sold in the US that are over this weight.

    Looking at the panel on the drivers door of my 2000 DiscoII, it says that the vehicle weight is 6,064 lbs.

    Does anybody know about this? Is it real? If so, I could possibly still go back and restate my taxes for 2000 on.

    Any insight is appreciated.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Details have been posted here: taxstud1(12/31/02):Toyota Sequoia forum.

    tidester, host
  • Greetings all,

    Having experienced the joy of LR overseas (in my youth) I always wanted one. However, for the past ten years the wife and I have owned only Volvo's. The new Volvo suv is 1)overpriced and 2)too tight in the back for someone 6'2. So, yesterday we bought a 99 Disco (superclean) with only 32K. Tincup, I bought a carfax report on it before going to the dealer and it looked good; but could you check VIN SALTY1241XA202838 for me. Dealer showed me a report stating that they had performed the 30K service and replaced the brake pads at that time. It needs new tires, and based on this board I will get the Scorpions. Thanks.
  • kbowenkbowen Posts: 58
    At the risk of being accused of continuing "ranting" by Tincup, I nevertheless have a question for nanuq. I personally visited four tire dealerships looking for a tire in the 18" size that is suitable for some serious off roading such as rock crawling and the like. One dealer took a particular interest in my problem and made an exhaustive search. The FINAL answer: There is absolutely NO SUCH tire presently being made by any company, bar none.

    He did suggest though that I might try the Bridgestone Dueler in the 265/60-R18 size (255/55-R18 is the recommended size). He thought it would fit, but noted that it would raise the overall height by about an inch.

    Hence, my question to Nanuq. Have you ever "jacked" you lady up and has it caused any adverse consequences such as increased roll over potential that you were concerned about?

    Also I point out that I can get excellent off road tires in the 16" size if I want to change rims. (The 2001 DII had 16" rims without ACE; The ACE option, which I have, comes with only 18" rims.) However, my dealership told me if I buy the 16" Land Rover rims, they will NOT mount them as they are not recommended with ACE. So, here we are again, a vehicle I love and bought for off roading, and one of the most capable in the world, with NO tire option to do the job. What a waste. Anyway Nanuq, your advice will be appreciated.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I've been off living in the land of guitars lately, drooling over a Lady of Certain Vintage (which should be here in a couple days). Just thought I'd wander by.

    About tires, wheels and ABS: there is SO much to be said on this topic! Some observations:

    1) Stock tire diameter is adequate for most, but going taller will get your diffs higher off the ground... good thing.

    2) Taller usually also means wider... and your big tires will hit your wheel openings on extreme angulation. Also possibly your radius arms and wheel well innards. Not a good thing.

    3) ABS systems are calibrated to "know" how fast your tire's contact patch (to the ground) is decelerating. If you up your tire size, you up your radius/circumference... and you can fool the ABS into misreading your traction.

    4) It's not always a bad thing to fool your ABS.

    5) ABS senses the difference in rotational speeds between all four tires (on a Rover) and I suspect does some fancy calculations to guess your "speed" based on RPM vs. gear selection. I am guess this because my ABS activates when I'm stuck, spinning all 4 wheels equally in snow, and I stab the brakes to facilitate a quick shift.

    6) Given a taller tire w/larger contact patch (more traction) vs. a larger radius and slower reaction to braking vs. ABS guessing what your traction is doing... I would bet big dollars that ABS won't get confused even measurably with a tire that's only a little taller than stock. I can back this up with my own experience: my ABS works (worked) great and I've run 1" and 2" taller tires.

    7) A tire 1" taller than stock put my speedometer spot-on. It's dead accurate now.

    8) 16" wheels from the earlier Rangie should bolt right onto a DII (they use the same axles).

    9) Your ETC should be no more affected by tall tires than your ABS is. If anything it should operate more aggressively than stock, allowing a bit more wheelspin than with stock size tires (relative radius thing).

    Conclusion: Go to a tire shop other than your Rover dealership and ask them to mount up some gnarly 16" tires on some Rangie wheels and put 'em on your DII. Stick with an inch taller than stock and *slightly* wider... you'll rub a little over big obstacles but not too bad. Make sure you get the fifth wheel and tire as a spare; if you're out playing and flat a tire you'll still have to get back out again the same way you came in.

    Bear in mind that this is simply my advice and if you modify your Rover and roll it, you're on your own. Being the Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave, you already know this.

    I hope this helps, -Bob
  • I went snowshoeing last weekend and coming back the road was slippery with packed snow/ice. I noticed that at low speeds with quick braking the front tires would lock up but I could not get the back tires to skid. I do not have ABS and I am running Pro Comp mud terrains. Do you think this is normal or are my rear brakes not working?
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Boy that's a tough question. I don't know for certain but I'd guess your rear brakes aren't up to snuff. I have the ABS deactivated on my Disco and I believe it has basically the same brake system as your D90, plus added ABS plumbing of course. On snow/ice I can easily lock all 4 wheels and feel the back end wanting to come around. With the windows down I can hear each wheel sliding separately and looking at my tracks I can see the 4 polished surfaces.

    Try driving on dry roads and applying the brakes. Then jump out and stick a wetted finger in thru the wheel and touch the disc surface. The fronts should be a little hotter than the rears but they should all be hot enough to burn you. If any one or two wheels are cool, I'd suspect the slave cylinder on that wheel is sticking ... or it needs to have the air bled out of that wheel's brake line. That's the first thing I'd do, is to bleed it thoroughly and see if that helps. Check the rotors, are they gouged? Maybe your pads are trashed? Just some things to look for.

    Good luck! -Bob
  • Greetings from the Great Wet North! Have been reading and enjoying this board over the past 3 years, especially the info from Nanuq and Tincup47. Am looking at a couple of 99 Disco II's here in Victoria, B.C. Dealer is asking the equiv. of USD19,000 for each, mileage is 52000K and 58000K km. Both are non-ACE with 18' wheels with new rubber. Without a detailed look, both appear sound with untouched undercarriage and no oil leaks. Any info on the reliability of early Disc II's would be appreciated. TINCUP, if you could, VIN's are:
    SALTY1241XA229246 and SALTY1247XA224116. Much appreciated. Driving a 2002 Tacoma now, very reliable but soulless! Ciao!
  • Electric or acoustic? Either way, it's a bug that never stops!
  • kbowenkbowen Posts: 58
    Post 2640 by Fencer notes that Michelin recommends the XPC for the Disco as the Cross Terrain is not suited for it. Fencer, if you're around, did they tell you why? From what I can see of the specs, the CT has 6/10 mud traction and 9/10 winter traction with a long life expectancy and quiet ride. However, for off road use, which is what I am looking for, Michelin tells me the best suited tire for the Disco is the Synchrome. The XPC is not really an option as Michelin tells me it does not come in the 18" size for my 2001 DII SE7. If you compare the two tires, though (the Cross Terrain V. Synchrome), they both have the same mud/dry traction rating, but the CT has a much better winter traction (Synchrome is a 5 and CT is a 9). Other than the fact Synchorme is more expensive, do you know of any reason why Michelin would say the CT is "not suitable" for the disco?
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Ahhhhh, acoustic only. I just picked up a '74 Guild F-50 Jumbo, and she's a beauty. Now looking at a Guild D-46 with the ash/mahogany sides and back. I've got a D-355 now, with "high miles" (to keep this on topic) and she plays like a dream.

    Hey there's another great use for a Disco, you can open the back door and sit inside the back and play your guitar even in the rain.

  • There is no substitute for the sound of a jumbo. Guild has always built really nice stuff.

    Phosphor/bronze strings bring out the warmth nicely.

    Nice acoustics through the disco when you open up the back door!
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Have you heard of DR strings? That company is owned by Mark Dronge, son of Alfred Dronge, founder of Guild. He makes some nice phos/bronze strings, and they really bring out the sweetness of the Guild body. I've been using Elixir strings too, and I'm torn... they sound GREAT but they're pretty spendy. Is it heresy to NOT use DR strings on a Guild? :)
  • Sorry for off topic.

    I have heard of them but never tried them.

    I like the Martin Acoustic SP strings. The Elixirs are nice, but tend to mute the overall tone sometimes.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Sorry for the delay, haven't had the time recently to follow this site that closely. Both of the vehicles you asked about were owned by companies, not individuals. Vehicle #1 was built on 6-25-99 and had an extensive warranty history. Vehicle #2 was built 5-21-99 and had an active history, but not as many major items as vehicle #1. Scheduled maintenance does not show up as being performed at Land Rover facilities on either vehicle.
  • I'm having trouble getting my navigation system to work. I put the street adress in and everthing else that needs to be done but it never gives me the route.Any advice would be great.
  • stopgostopgo Posts: 16

    I just had my navigation system replaced by Land Rover. Mine was replaced because it kept re-setting itself and powering down for no apparent reason, very annoying when driving and you cannot turn it back on. It didn't work right from day one when I picked it up. I'm assuming that yours is the Harmon Kardon system.

    If so, I suggest going to the Harmon Kardon website for the Traffic Pro and downloading and printing the User Manual for the system. You will see that the instructions from the HK website are far more complete and useful than the inadequate pamphlet that LR provides with this complicated system.

    It sounds like your system may not have the data installed from the US East or US West Navigation CDs. It could also need to be recalibrated. Try the HK website, that is what I had to do because the guys at the dealership were not much help with that system because it is so new.

    Good luck,

  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    system on the HSE better than the other system offered?
  • Tin ... can you check VIN SALTY1241XA202838 for me please. Bought it two weeks ago. The certified used vehicle warranty is already coming in handy, as I found a leak in the gas tank the first time I completely filled it up. Dealer is replacing the tank this week and installing the Pirelli 255/65 R16 Scorpion ST's and running boards. Thanks.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Is very nice,audio tuned by Harmon Kardon's engineers. I actually saw them working on it, very interesting to watch them put all their equipt into a vehicle and then tune it for optimum performance. It is not just available on the HSE though, it is also available as an option on the SE.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    your's was built on 10-20-98. Warranty history is typical for early 99 vehicles. Mostly leaks and CEL light issues. It does show having the fuel filler neck replaced at 31,000 miles for overflow concerns, could be related to your current issue.
  • Thanks a bundle for your efforts, Tincup47! I think I'll give both of thoses babies a miss and keep my eyes open for a better prospect. They were priced suspiciously low compared to others on the market in these parts. You've probably saved a heap of headaches for budding LR owners over the years. Ciao.
  • Bought a brand new 2003 Discovery this past weekend. When I got home I realized there was no navigation cd so I called the dealer and they said that I have to wait for it to be mailed to me. How long does this take? I am going crazy not being able to use it.
  • Tincup ... thanks for the help. Got the vehicle back on Saturday. Jez, what a difference the Pirelli's make! Quieter ride, better handling, and they look great to boot. The dealer in Baton Rouge has been great. They started selling LR's 4 weeks ago (branched off from the New Orleans dealer). Am waiting on quotes for 12 and 24 month extended warranties. Their description of extended warranties so far has been somewhat confusing. Thanks again for the help!
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    if one opts for the Harmon Kardon, is navigation mandatory, or can the stereo be bought w/o nav???
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    The 320 watt Harmon Kardon system is only available with the Becker NAV unit.
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