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I wish Subaru put a light inside the glove compartment and the buttons along the arm rest lit up so I knew what the hell I was reaching when I needed to use the mirror, lock a door, or use a window. Other than that, I have no problems or complaints (yet) I have over 700 miles and seem to be getting 24-25 miles per gallon.
A few posts back someone said if the Forester doesnt have enough pep for you, you need a race car. You are correct Sir. When you buy this car, it has a 4cyl 165 horsepower 2.5 L engine. It is what it is and it does what it does. I strongly suggest you go for the all important test drive instead of asking questions that can only be answered by you, the consumer. For me personally, its the fastest car Ive ever owned and it has plenty of power and acceleration. I love it when I get stuck behind the idiot on the one lane road, hes behind me so fast he doesnt even know what day it is. Thats enough power for me.
Here's a variation of the fax method that an Edmund's editor recently used: Blast Fax Car Buying.
Good luck.
Steve
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I am the proud "father" of a brand new 2001 Forester S with a 5
speed and now 3 weeks old.
I traded in a beloved 90 Honda Prelude with 200000 miles and am still trying to make the transition from a poor man's "sport" car to a cool SUV/passenger car, although the more I drive it the more I like it ( FYI the CE light hasn't come on and it doesn't stink!). It just experienced its first snow day (live in Settle so this is rare) and it went places that I would have never have considered with the Honda.
My question is this: I just received a letter from Subaru asking to if I would like to have my own owners web site. It sounded like it could be a very useful owners tool, but what I am concerned about is if it might start generating a lot of unwanted commercial E-mail. Has anyone had any experience with it?
Thank you Ron
Hope this helps!
Drew
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I'm happy to say, as of January 26 after a 11 week wait, I became the owner of a Blue Ridge Pearl, 5sp manual, 2001 Subaru Forester S. Reading posts here helped me come to my final decision. I've driven it about 800 miles mixed city / highway. I'm averaging about 24 mpg if I don't drive with a lead foot and shift slightly before 3000 RPM (Does it get better than this, btw?).
These are the things I love about the car:
1) Reliability. 2) The handling / AWD. 3) The heated everything. And everything heats up fast and strong, which I learned coming out of a bar with friends (don't worry, I was designated driver) without jackets on a cold, rainy February night. 4) Cargo and passenger space. The split folding rear seat is great. I can *easily* fit 3 pairs of 170cm skis plus gear INSIDE the car and still bring along 2 other friends.
Now, things I think can be improved:
1) I don't trust any of the cupholders except the center one to safely hold anything without a screw-on cap. They wrap too low around the containers. 2) The tuning knob on the stereo. The knob's shape makes it more intuitive to push/toggle side to side rather than twist. 3) Everyone was right. That new car smell is horrible. 4) That Check Engine light when the gas cap isn't tightened correctly. Scared the living daylights out of me, even though I knew what the probable cause was (and the cap WAS the cause). How often does that thing go on? Am I going to be seeing it alot considering I live in NJ and some stranger puts the gas cap back on every time?
One last thing that adds to my Forester's appeal:
My friends aren't too thrilled with it because of its unsexy utilitarian looks and it doesn't go 0-60 in 7 seconds. But whose car have we taken skiing, taking camping this summer, and is helping a friend move to a new apartment? The Forester might not look "young" but it certainly keeps up with my life
I'm hoping this car will see me into my 30's
mac08854, 24 mpg is about right for winter driving. I've seen as high as 27.5 in summer and mine's an auto. Things will improve with break-in. The Forester is a heavy vehicle, with a boxy shape, and a large 4cyl engine. Mid-twenties mileage is good for a vehicle like this. Don't worry about how it looks, it's a performance car in disguise. I no longer dread driving by police cars in my previous "look-at-me" Ford Probe GT.
-Tony
This is my first time at this site. My wife and I just bought a 2001 Forester S with auto trans.
It has Geolander 16 inch H/T tires and Consumer Reports gave these tires a "poor snow traction" rating. Has anyone driven in the snow with these tires? How do they handle and how much snow before you have a problem?
Thanks,
studley
Having driven in snow with my Geolandars, I'd say they're as good as any all-season tire. Just recently, I was driving in about 1 ft of snow with a set of 3/4 worn Geolandars. Still got through the stuff!
Ken
I actually rode in the back seat for lots of it, since I had my notebook/DVD and was watching movies with our baby. It was a hoot and I'm 6 feet tall, too!
Try different seats. Ours fits nicely. If tall adults ride in back, you may want to move the front seats up a notch.
Tom: get that water leak looked at ASAP. Don't want a moldy interior. I believe they can adjust the window angle so the seal is tighter. My 1300psi pressure washer does not break the seal.
Laurie: congrats! Ron: you too, but I'm sure they'll recall yours to add the "new car stink" soon! ;-)
MrBill: the power window switch for the driver window is actually lit.
Michael: the gas cap does have a warning label to tighten it nicely. Still, maybe the attendant sniffed too many gas fumes! Congrats on your new Forester.
I loved how despite the criticism, it was the Forester that was taken on most of your trips. I have a similar story - we went off roading with my Jeep buddies. They kept saying how mine was not a real truck, etc.
Then, slowly but surely, each one of their Jeeps broke down. One lost a brake line. The other a clutch. The 3rd lost his starter. By the end of the day all were limping along.
It got dark, and guess which vehicle got us to a warm meal at night, saving us from starving?
-juice
http://www.edmunds.com/chat/cartalk022001.html?id=hphall2.cartalk2
Also, is the back-end bike rack best? If so, do I need the trailer hitch?
Thanks!
I have the premium package with the moonroof (it's huge!) and the cross bars whistle. I know it's the cross bars because I took them off and now everything is fine. When I took the car back to the dealer, they said that is a problem with the all the new Sube Forresters with moon roofs and there's nothing I can do.
Has anyone else had this problem? I'm wondering if it's just this set of crossbars. (I also tried moving them around on the rack and that didn't work.)
Thanks!
Scott M.
OK, so it's not sexy, but otherwise it seems to be an incredible car--great handling/very quiet/great highway cruiser/a lot of zip/tremendous visibility in all directions/and generally fun to drive- so big deal about "image".
I now have almost 2000 miles on it.
I haven't had any problem with the CE light, but probably only because of all the posts about about the gas cap and haven't been bothered by the SMELL.
I went skiing recently, and the chains mandatory sign (except for 4WD) was up. It felt like I was driving on a dry surface..great traction! The best part was driving my "ugly duckling" past all the people putting chains onto their sex symbols in a disgusting mess of slush and mud.
I have been getting gas mileage in the 22-25 range in combined city/highway driving, but yesterday I had to make a one day trip to Astoria, Oregon (about 400 mile rt) and got about 27. I took the ocean route (avoided I-5) and probably never averaged more than 50mph, but it was still much better than I expected.
I found the driver's seat to be incredibly comfortable..no aches/no sore spots...very back and butt friendly.
Could this be the noise that a few of you are talking about?
I also notice a buzz in the seatbelt housing on the driver's side when I go over rough surfaces. anyone else experience this. I plan to pull the housing off in the near future to find the culprit.
Hope this info. helps with the little annoying noises.
Skip
Annie1966- Congratulations! Try wrapping a plastic-coated wire around your front cross bar. This may change the airflow just enough to end the whistling. Also make sure that the fat edge is facing forward. Let us know if it still whistles.
ron3805- Congratulations, hey...you've got my Forester! I've had mine for about 9 months and 13,000 miles and I still love it! FYI: I'm happy with the way the Forester looks and would take one over an Escape any day of the week!
-Frank P.
-Frank P.
The rack itself holds two bikes and folds out of the way so you actually can open the hatch - nice. I've even strapped 3 bikes to it before, oddly enough to go so a SCOA (Subaru Club of America) meet. Have bungee cords handy.
Annie: some dealers mount the cross bars backwards. Try reversing the direction they face. Or leave them off until you need to use them - it'll probably help your mileage too.
Scott: check out the Yahoo Forester Club for lift kits. Lots of guys there have them. Lovell springs are all the rage, and give you 2" more clearance for about $400. iSR Subaru also sells springs and kits.
The lift kits themselves are a little troublesome, in that the angles to the tranny are affected. Check out:
http://autocaresubaru.com/
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/subaruforester
-juice
I have a 2001 Forester S, and was also curious about the sound of the "upgraded speakers/tweeters" and the subwoofer that goes along with the premium upgrade. The package sounds nice, but not as nice as aftermarket. I stuck a Clarion sub under my seat, with a simple 6" woofer, and it's self-powered, tore out the NON-upgraded Subaru speakers and replaced them with Eclipse speakers, and kept the 6-cd in dash factory head. It sounds cleaner than the Subaru package, but it may be worth the $300-400 to get the "package" deal from your dealer if you want upgraded sound anyway.
If you really want to be wowed, listen to the new Outback VDC stereo system made by McIntosh -- 11 speakers, and it's absolutely incredible. It looks very odd in the console, but the sound is worth it. I would ONLY look at it if you have an extra 7K to spend on that model...
best,
perrito
I also got the chance to listen to the sound system in the VDC Outback, not to shabbey, although I did not have my test disc with me(PINK FLOYD-DARK SIDE OF THE MOON) to fully test the system!!
Also, car goes in tomorrow for LEAK testing..will post results..
The dealer fixed it by taking out a loose
piece of plastic in the B piller, and I think they also added some insulation. Whatever they did the rattle went away, and we don't have any complaints about interior noise anymore (it's actually quite quiet now)
Too bad they don't eliminate these bugs & annoyances at factory QC
(not to mention the CEL pain in the [non-permissible content removed])
Ron
The Buzz noise is coming from the passenger side tweeter (Has upgraded sound system - Premium Sound System III w/Tweeter Kit). It does it only when the engine is running and no matter if the stereo is on or off. I did notice that the buzz changes speed with engine speed. I suspect there is some type of radio interference coming from the engine electrical system (maybe poor ground / spark plug wire / alternator diode).
Anyone else have this?
So far the rest of the car is great!
Scott M.
A friend of mine who owns a 2000 Forester S with premium sound package had the same problem. It turned out that the speaker wires for the tweeter needed some extra insulation. The dealer repaired it under warranty. You should check with yours.
Ken
Also, the rear window is lower than the side ones. It may create a funky look, but it improves rear visibility. Look at the RAV4's raised rear - stylish, but rear visibility is poor in comparison.
-juice
Don't worry, though. Actual usable space is not affected. Even with the 3rd rear shoulder belt AND the moonroof the cargo box volume measured by CR is unchanged.
Cargo space is excellent. I've fit a clothes washer inside the box with the hatch closed and room to spare in every dimension except width.
-juice
Easiest of all is the trailer option - got a $200 DIY utility trailer, cap'y apprx 1500 lbs - my Forester (2001S+) pulls it loaded no prob.
Biggest load so far? Wife, cousin, dog, 17' canoe (on rack) 14' sailboat (on trailer), two tents, food, beer, and gear for four days of car camping on OR mtn lake. Effortless cruising at 80 mph.
Haven't figured out how to sell the WRX wagon to wife yet.
jg
grugru: good to know I can haul plywood and interior doors.
How 'bout some photos of that trailer? And the sailboat? Sounds like fun!
Don't sell her on the WRX - sell her on Forester. Then you take the WRX, everyone is happy!
-juice
With this in mind, I wonder how the next generation Forester will look? :-)
Drew
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P.S. juice, did you know that the Honda CR-V's drag co-efficient is a whopping 0.50? That's higher than the Jeep Grand Cherokee's 0.45! Perhaps that's why you read about reviewers commenting about the CR-V's wind noise especially at higher speeds.
Wow, that is high. You also get more engine noise at speed.
Folks - reminder that tonight, in about 6 hours, we have our weekly chat. Welcome current owners as well as prospective shoppers.
Actualy, it's the perfect place for shopper to field questions to a number of Subaru enthusiasts. We usually get at least 7 people actively chatting away.
-juice
I'll take a crack at this one. First of all, you should get familiarized with the CalTrans chain requirements:
http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo/wntrdriv.htm
There are 3 levels of chain controls. AWD with all-season tires (M+S rated) will get you through 2 of them without chains. The last one, R-3, everyone has to use chains (note: CalTrans usually closes the road before going to an R-3). By law, everyone needs to carry chains when driving in the mountains even if you don't need to use them.
Now, your stock Geolandars are all-season M+S rated so you will be okay through an R-2. However, it's important to note that your Geolandars are simply that: all-season tires. They'll do fine for light-medium snow and mediocre on ice but they are not dedicated snow tires.
Just a few weeks ago, I went up to Tahoe with a friend in his Forester S. The snow was fairly heavy (6"-12") and his fairly worn Geolandars (36K miles) did okay.
For winter driving, the key is to take it slow and easy. AWD will get you going but it won't help you stop. Don't get overconfident just because you can leave other 2WD vehicles at the stop light (it is fun, however). Plan your turns and stops well ahead of time. Stopping distances are much, much longer so leave plenty of room between you and the car in front. For good measure, double your normal "comfortable" following distance. Take turns slowly and without any sudden taps on the brake or gas.
If you have a 4EAT Subie, drop it into "2" for very slippery road conditions. The tranny will not only start in 2nd gear, it will also split power 50:50 making it less likely to slip.
For 5MT owners, starting in 2nd will also do the same.
If you get stuck, don't floor the gas trying to get out. Many times, simply clearing the snow in front of the car and having someone give you a gentle "push" will often get you going.
If you can't do that - try alternating between 1st and reverse if you can get the car in a rocking motion. The idea is to get enough momentum to break free.
Also, periodically check your alloy wheels for snow/ice build up. The build up can cause an imbalance leading to vibrations/shimmys while driving.
Finally, when the conditions get very bad, swallow your pride and put on chains. A couple minutes spent hugging a tire may just save you thousands in insurance claims.
Have fun!
Ken
Thanks for the thorough reply! That's exactly the kind of info and advice I was looking for. Having never owned a 4WD vehicle before, I could see myself easily being deceived into thinking that stopping in snow should be just as easy as starting (and gotten myself into serious trouble!)
In regards to the wheel/snow-ice problem, is it easy to see from the outside, and if so, do you just kick/poke it free? Thanks.
Norm
Call me silly, but I didn't know the auto trans subie will start 50:50 in second gear. That's great info to know. Thanks for the info. Any other less than obvious tid-bits about the subie AWD system you can offer?
Skip
Do you put chains on the front tires, rear tires, all four, the spare tire, of an AWD?
I usually write down tidbits like this, but I guess I didn't do it in this case -- haven't ever needed chains in Utah for an AWD. Sorry to be bringing it up again. (And if it's in the manual, I'll really feel bad...)
-Dan
Ross
Skip -- There should be a FAQ or something on this topic since it gets asked quite often. The 4EAT normally splits power 90:10. In "D" the 4EAT computer will decide based on a software map of how to distribute torque -- maximum being 50:50. When you put the selector into 1, 2 or R, it goes to 50:50 and keeps it there. In 2, the added bonus is that it will also start in 2nd gear -- great for low traction surfaces.
The 5MT uses a simpler system. A viscous center differential defaults to a 50:50 power split all the time.
I think the differences between the two systems are transparent for everyday driving. However, the 4EAT is probably better suited for very slippery road conditions as it can keep the torque split at 50:50. On the other hand, 5MT is probably more fun for spirited driving -- not because you can just select your gears, but because there is more power going to the rear tires. The result is more neutral handling.
Chains -- Front tires only. It's in your manual.
Ken
You may find this interesting:
http://4x4abc.com/ML320/ml_chains.html
Drew
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