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Comments
Tinting definitely reduces interior temps and generally cuts UV by about 95% (not sure what the glass does by itself). You can get anything for 50% to 5% tint with the 5% being the darkest. There are basically 2 kinds of material.. dyed and metalized and some combinations of both. Metalized (not necessarily reflective) is most expensive and is usually warranted for life against fading where as dyed is less expensive and may fade or turn purple over time. All states vary in what they allow. Check out local shops and ask for referrals as the application is everything. Clean your windows and your car before your tint application as dust and dirt can and will get under the tint. When tint it applied it is usually cut and fit on the outside of the window before being applied to the inside of the glass so clean the outside of your windows too. Once applied you will not be able to lower the windows for 3-5 days as the tint cures. Prices vary a lot but a rule of thumb is somewhere between $25 and $50 a window with less per window the more windows you have done. The tint is hard to remove once cured so be sure you make the right choice. Visit a shop or two and look at some of the cars they are tinting or better yet if you see a tinted car you like ask the driver where they had it done and if they like the tint job.
Some useful sites
http://autowindowtintings.com/main.cfm?action=home
http://www.tintdude.com/
bit - 2001 GT Wagon
Thanks for all your input...
http://www.swri.edu/10light/fuelqual.htm
Brooks
Su-Sussudio... :-)
Sorry. Saw you were at the chat, but I came in late and sort of missed your question.
Sounds to me like the alignment is off. Factory specs to allow a certain range, and it may be at the fringes of that range, but I'd get it aligned to the middle of the range. 13k miles is a little ridiculous. I got 28k miles out of my Duelers, which aren't as long-lasting.
BTW, I had a little more wear on the outer edges too, though I attributed my small difference to aggressive cornering.
Brooks: mail order them. You also won't pay sales tax, though you do pay a small shipping fee. The footwell is oddly shaped, so generic mats (which I have) will not fit perfectly.
-juice
Yesterday did the same thing. Brought to the dealer and they diagnosed and replaced the knock sensor to the tune of about $200. Covered by my extended warrantee except for the $100 deductible.
I sense that Forester has a problem with fuel/emissions systems since I had an earlier problem where my car was stalling until the mass air flow meter was replaced.
My wife loves this car, but it is nowhere near as reliable as my previous three (including two still owned) cars: Camry, Millennia S, and Mazda MX6.
Let's get with it Suburu. This is hardly a first generation engine.
That's the only year that had the MAF, though. The 1998 was the Phase I DOHC engine, and for 2000 it got a totally new intake system on the Phase II.
The knock sensor is an unusual failure, but you had the extended warranty, which was smart.
CR still touts the Forester (and all Subies for that matter) as a "CR Good Bet" for used cars.
We had a '95 626, and it broke down 5 times in the past 2 years, so we just traded up for a new Legacy. We did get the extended warranty for that - nowadays any little thing costs several hundred dollars, no matter how reliable the brand.
Did you get the Subaru Gold? It includes roadside assistance and towing to your dealer. Cancelling AAA will save me $497 over the 7 years of that warranty.
-juice
The latter now have 40k on them and are about 90% worn. They are only now starting to show a bit more wear on the outer edges. I have been driving more aggressively lately, so that may be the reason.
I did NOT have an alignment between sets of tires, so I do not think alignment was the problem with the Geolandars. I very carefully watched the tread wear on the Goodrich tires using a gauge and when there was no sign of excess outer edge wear, I decided against an alignment. But, your situation may be different.
spuds
Yes, I have the Gold Plan, since I tend to keep my cars a long time; in some ways a waste of money, but I like the comfort factor, so it all depends how one wastes money. That Ahi tuna I wasted money for dinner tonight was terrific. And I realize that your bad luck with Mazdas and my good luck and vice versa with the Suburus means that we have to look at the overall reliability figures.
They did have a recall to reprogram the CEL to make it less sensitive because they were getting a lot of false positives. I took my '01 in earlier this year for just that. Runs like a Swiss watch, and if you've seen my posts, you know that I'm one who puts his Forester to work regularly.
Best regards,
-brianV
Ken
At 2000 miles you had not checked the mpg before that point? Does your region require Oxygenated fuel?
I don't see the environmental savings as far as hydrocarbon emissions when I now use 20 to 30% more fuel per mile. Bob L.
"feathering" on the outer edges of each tyre
front & back.an alignment specialist tells me there is too much "toe-in".ann 365
The other culprit, as Bob L. mentioned is oxygenated fuel. Also, are you using the proper octane gas? Since our Foresters are designed to run on regular, using high-octane fuel can lower your milage as well.
Ken
So, I end screwing up my gas mileage by revving up the engine on my Forester S and "dropping the hammer" (or whatever you do with an AT model) -- intent on running the little moron down. Gosh darn if the squirrel of the day doesn't jump out of the way to freedom and another few hours of life, leaving me with an over-revved, gas guzzling Subaru and him with the satisfaction at having tricked me into playing his game again.
My only comfort is the time that I won. Heh. No more games for THAT particular squirrel.
Hope this is helpful in figuring out your new Subaru's MPG issues. ;-p
burnsmr4
- Varmint
-Frank P.
Ltlround
Subaru Gold was worth it to me. 7 years of AAA would have cost $497. Then consider the added resale value at 90k miles (there is still 10k left bumper-to-bumper). Add to that free repaires, free towing to the nearest Subaru dealer, and a free loaner. Red carpet treatment from the dealer all around.
2000 miles is still very green. Let her break in. Mine improved by about +2mpg after 15k miles or so.
I got 28k miles out of my Duelers (not Yokos), and also had wear on the outer edges. I wonder if that's from taking highway on- and off-ramps until the tires squeel. :-)
So far 20k miles on my Nitto NT460 tires, and they look like they'll last another 40k miles.
-juice
If they drop the tranny you'll get all brand-new fluids for free, look at it that way. You can wait an extra 10k miles before you service the ATF.
-juice
well, after much deliberation (1.9APR), my time has arrived and saturday my wife and i picked up a new 2003 X MT. she chose the color (Pacifica Blue), we both wanted the grey interior. we had a chance to test it out on ice and snow on sunday, and i have to say that i smiled all the 104 miles we drove up and down the mountain. the dealer wasn't particularly thrilled when we requested to drive it off the showroom floor for a test drive, but there was only 1 blue X MT. after 2 hours, we finally agreed on $300 over invoice plus the $275 in advertising fee (i wish there was more competition) and today i picked up the diffy protector which was part of the deal.
i hope i can update and contribute regularly, as well as ask for advice, from time to time. pics to come soon.
kajko
Len
As for the wiper question, to my knowledge on of the subies spray on that single swipe, its for mist. If you push the end of the stick it should spray the windshield and swip 1/2 dozen times or so.
-mike
-Frank P.
Leo
ltlround
On board members advice, bought tweeter kit..love it, bought rubber floor mats, perfect fit and stout enough, bought and installed cargo net (rear seat back only) like it.
MPG city 18-19, hwy 22-25, mileage 3,000. Mobil 1 goes in today.
-Frank P.
I once ran over a squirrel with a Honda Elite 125 scooter! Poor thing did a suicide dive under the tire. Felt like a speed bump. Poor thing. :-(
Another vote for Big Sur. Beautiful drive!
24.7mpg on my last tank, with oxygenated fuel. :-)
-juice
Juice: yes, snow already, albeit very little and only above 8,000 ft, but in shaded spots, it's pure ice. Taos Ski Valley opening this weekend!
Speed bump! That's awful!
Ken
Note that you have to unhook some exhaust hangers, and lower the whole thing to access the diffy, but you don't actually remove the muffler. Use a jack and some tie wraps to hold the muffler in place while you are working.
Taos was fun. Went there years ago. They have one ski trail that is longer than anythig I've seen in here in the Mid Atlantic.
-juice
The new transmission parking rod is the technical term. until then we should use the parking brake when placing the car in park. I guess it only involves automatic transmissions.
Does anyone know how long this repair will take?
Gene
Ross
Jon
Anne
I lowered the pressure to the recommended setting of 29/28, which made the ride much more comfortable. It no longer feels like it's going to skip off of the road when going over bumps. Lowered the spare pressure to 35.
I've usually used manufacturer-recommended tire pressure. Of the seven cars I owned B.F. (Before Foresters), the 1985 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE was the only exception. Following advice from some RX-7 Club of America members and a pro driver, I used slightly higher air pressure fore and aft (32/30) in the stock Pirelli P6 tires. That nearly eliminated understeer, making handling nearly neutral. The tires lasted for 47,000 miles. They were *fun* miles, too.
--- Lowell