Subaru Forester (up to 2005)

speedwagon

Thanks, John. I probably should have used better wording -- what I'm trying to remedy is the long brake pedal travel. It's just not as firm as the VW Jetta that I used to drive -- I'd like it to "catch" further up. I'll definitely ask the dealer to take a look, but I have a feeling that the pedal action is a result of the existing dual-stage brake booster.

ateixeira

One mod I saw was a brace that supposedly firmed up the position of the brake master cylinder. And stuff like DOT-4 fluid and braided brake lines might also help a little.

But a dual-stage booster will always feel different. It does allow smoother low-speed stops, plus it doesn't feel jerky or catchy like Mercedes' brakes do.

-juice

jimbob17

In the fall of 2004 I complained about tapping in the engine that was heard consistently on my 2003 Forester. They changed the timing belt tensioner and the tapping was less but still evident. Recently the dealer said they would change the two pistons on the drivers side with pistons having teflon on them. They said there is a problem with only the pistons on the drivers side making noise. Its under warranty at less than three years and only 24,000 miles. Is anyone aware of this type replacement and is it effective?

jnnt29

Jim, I had the same problem with my 2003 Forester back in March of 2004. The Dealership had the Factory Rep come down and listen to it and he had them replace the sort block. That was at 23k miles and now I have 43k on it and no problems. I posted back in April of 2004 what I went though. Good luck! JT

ll1

Anyone have the Subaru factory ski carrier? Is it better than an aftermarket Thule or Yakima? Does it give you enough clearance for bindings...if not, does it come with extensions to raise the carrier? Seems like factory and aftermarket are about the same price.

Also, anyone selling their armrest extension? We would like to get one but think $95 is a bit steep to pay for an armrest

brbanru

My ru's radio died after only 2 years. The push button won't turn the radio on, the light around the radio comes on, and it's not the fuse, I checked #15 and replaced it just for yucks. No dice, any suggestions? Also I got kind of weird wear on the stock Yokahamas, what's the best tire for the Forester? I ski, but not often and live in N. Cal, so not a lot of rain ect. Lost lil' luddite, Brbanru

dcm61

Is it better than an aftermarket Thule or Yakima?

The Subaru ski / bike/ kayak / etc. attachments used be, and I think still are, re-badged Yakima.

DaveM

c_hunter

Yep, Dave is right -- Yakima. If you can get the Subaru parts with a discount at an online vendor, it's often cheaper to buy the rebadged Subaru version.

I have Yakima crossbars and Yakima ski clamps on my Outback XT, and there is plently of clearance for most skis. However, I have a new pair of Fischer RX-8 with Rail-flex bindings and lifters, and there is only about 1/2" inch of clearance between the binding and roof when I transport those skis. Getting close. This makes me recommend you test-fit your skis and rack on the Forester if possible. Doesn't Thule or Yakima offer angled ski mounts?? That might be a safer bet if you can't test fit.

Craig

fbkord

I had the same problem with my 2002 Forester. The dealer replaced the short block and the engine is working fine. My gas mileage has gone down though.

ll1

Thanks.

Does the subaru ski carrier come with locks? Or are they purchased separately.

miamicrv1

I'm thinking about picking up a 2006 Forester in September and was wondering about both the sales and after sales experience at the Maui dealer. I was also wondering if anyone found it advantageous to buy on Oahu and have the car shipped over. All advice appreciated

dcm61

Does the subaru ski carrier come with locks? Or are they purchased separately.

They included the locks in the past. I assume they still do.

FYI - Yakima (and I think Thule) locks (actually lock cores) have to be purchased separately. The idea of purchasing them separately is so that you can buy a 4, 6, 8, 10, etc. pack of cores which allows you to use the same key for all your accessories.

DaveM

whalers

Has anybody else noticed that their Forester shakes pretty significantly when stepping on the brakes? When I stop rather quickly - not just emergency, but when a light turns yellow and need to stop - the whole vehicle, but especially front end, shakes significantly. Mine is an '04 2.5X that I got last August. I've known some manufactuers (e.g. Ford) to have abs where you can really feel the pumping, versus others (e.g. Acura) where the abs is not noticeable at all.

Thanks in advance for any input.

once_for_all

you might try retorquing your front wheels. I think 65 to 80 lbs is correct.

If the wheels are over-torqued, you will get warped rotor syndrome and eventually, warped rotors themselves.

Also try rotating your tire, that sometimes helps too.

John

asa

We have intermittent, light engine knock in our '04 2.5X 5-Speed (NON-Turbo). It does it only at around 40mph at about 2200 RPM with a very light throttle. Not one of three Subie dealers had a clue and none of them seem to care. There's no trouble code being thrown, so the knock sensors are okay they say. Does it with 87 and 89 Octane, but runs fine with 92 and 93. If we drive it like a Formula I racer, there's no engine knock in this narrow band of speed and RPM. Weird. Any ideas?

mpgman

The local bike store has 2 and 3 bike attachments that strap over the rear hatch. Cost is about $75. Sounds a lot less than adding a hitch and the bike fork for several hundred, especially if like me, you only need to haul bikes a few times per year.

ateixeira

I agree with John. Re-torque those lugs, and if that doesn't do it have your brake rotors resurfaced with an on-car lathe.

asa: that's a bit strange, given it's not a high compression engine.

Carbon desposits can form in the cylinders, though, and oddly enough the best suggestion to prevent those it to run the engine to redline once in a while, say once per tankful. So hit the gas!

Also make sure you don't have any loose heat shields on the exhaust, those can rattle and that might sound like knocking.

Maybe toss in a bottle of Techron to clean the fuel system, can't hurt.

-juice

damish003

Does anyone have a link showing the redesign for the 2006 Forester? I'm fairly sure I saw one a bit back, but I could be wrong I'll be looking to trade my 2004 OBS next spring, and the Forester seems interesting. Thanks.

-Dan-

bluesubie

Have you tried switching brands of fuel?

-Dennis

bluesubie

http://www.subaru.co.jp/forester/index.html

Just don't torture yourself too much by looking at the STi version.

-Dennis

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asa

Brand of fuel seems to make little difference with the intermittent engine knock on our '04 2.5X Forester 5-Speed. I'll take a look under the car to see if the heat shield or something may be rattling. Maybe the combination of the speed and engine RPM might set up a harmonic vibration. I'm thinking that it might be the ECU code. We had it reflashed and the knock mostly went away, then came back. Many drivers probably wouldn't hear the light knock, but my wife and I seem to have the sort of ears that do.

asa

Weeping. 6-Speed stick too. Wife is ready to trade.

Asa

ateixeira

Also means that rock solid trans and clutch, I bet.



-juice

damish003

Too late! That STI version is GORGEOUS! Pant,pant, drool, drool. I wonder what pricing will be on that.

-Dan-

clee

I'm considering purchasing a K&N air filter and wondering if any of you have had any experience with this product. It's touted as a great product and it will save money in the long run as their filters can be cleaned and reused. Thanks, Chris.

tidester

Then you'll want to take a look at this: K&N Air Filters, bolt-on power?

tidester, host

amsbear

Chris,

I have had one in my 98 Outback for about two years now and I don't really buy into the performance increases that they claim. My mpg hasn't really changed either and stays consistent between 22.5 and 24.5 depending on the season and gas formulations.

You will save money on not having to replace the paper element filters over a couple of years. This is assuming that you adhere to the recommended change schedule. Ecologically speaking, you will be contributing less to the local landfill.

Thanks for the reminder though, its about due for its annual cleaning.

One tip, keep a regular filter available to swap in while you are cleaning and letting the K&N filter air-dry.

Alan
98 OBW Ltd

2003forrester

Anyone else have problems with this? 2003 Forrester with high pitched whining coming from the power steering. Had it replaced 4 times under warranty. The last time after a long hi-way trip, it got alot worse. Service said it's a normal noise that this year of Forrester makes. I find it really hard to accept this, after spending 40,000 for a vehicle, and having to put up with a whine that is really noticeable. Service dept has given up. Not sure what our next steps should be.

whalers

Thx John and Juice

njswamplands

high pitched whining, hmm. i solved this by removing my wife from the car.

bluesubie

Ecologically speaking, you will be contributing less to the local landfill.

But how do you clean a K&N and be ecologically minded?

I've run a K&N in my wife's OB and an Amsoil in 3 of my Subaru's since '98. I always felt the the Amsoil made the turbo (WRX and FXT) spool slightly quicker, but that could be in my head.

I just switched back to OEM in the FXT after all of these years because the filters were letting in too much dirt (used oil analysis). The K&N in the OB was letting in less dirt. Probably because the OB is used mainly for 25 mile weekday drives to work vs. harsher conditions with the FXT.

-Dennis

maverick1017

I stopped using K&N in my 98 last year and now I realize what a waste of money that was. new filter costs around $40 then you have to buy the cleaning chemicals and oil, another $20. I did some calculation, at $60 plus Tax I could have bought over 20 Purolator standard filters if I catch them on sale at AutoZone, and they go on sale often around here. Filter replacement at 30K intervals, standard filter would only have cost me $12 + tax at over 124K miles. economically its not worth it. oh well, live and learn. :shades:

Mike

4mygrey

I sometimes tap the chrome fender of our Tundra with the edge of the door to the back seat when I toss my purse and things back there in the morning. I guess after 3 years with plastic doors on a Saturn I probably got a little lazy about this... but now I've noticed that this tapping has chipped the paint off the door in a few spots (great paint job!), and some of them are starting to rust! I've only had the car since November. I think I'll start tossing my stuff in bin in the cargo area, but I need to do somehting about this before rust takes over the whole car...should I have it done professionally? Can someone recommend a product/process for home use that I can use without fouling up the whole car? I have touch up paint but realize I can't just paint over the rust. Is there something I can put on the door (or fender) to prevent it from hitting there after I do fix the rust problem? When we have a baby I'll need to use the back seat (no, baby can't go in the cargo area) and probably will bump the door regularly with my bum...

Also...want to carry bikes on the car...are there options for the back besides the hitch mount? (I don'thave a hitch.) I've seen people with bike racks strapped around their trunks or smaller hatch backs...would something like that work on a Forester??? I'd like to avoid the roof since my current bike is heavy and would be hard for me to get up there.

Thanks everyone!

ateixeira

That's strange because the steel is galvanized, i.e. coated for rust protection. It might have been the repeated blows. It's just paint.

I use Naval Jelly to melt the rust, then apply touch-up paint, about $5 or so per bottle at the dealer to get a perfect color match.

mike: Bobistheoilguy did an interesting study and found that the increased air flow was almost negligable, but that the air was actually cleaner with a plain paper air filter vs. K&N gauze or even Amsoil oiled foam.

So I'll also stick to stock.

-juice

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asa

I'd take it up with Subaru at your country's Corporate office. Was it the power steering pump they replaced 4 times? Sounds like a design deficiency with the part. Could it be a bad idler somewhere along the belt routing? Idlers squeal when they have failed.

damish003

The cars may be galvanized, but I don't think the hoods are. My OBS has a few chips in the hood near the wipers...probably hit with snow scraper during the winter. So the chips have developed rust there. The other spots are on the front fender, and no rust, just chipped. It's sad that the paint job on Subaru's is so bad. Hopefully touch-up paint will be satisfactory at lease turn-in.

-Dan-

ateixeira

The OBS' hood is steel, so perhaps it's not galvanized, but the Forester, WRX, Legacy, and Tribeca all have aluminum hoods, so they won't ever rust.

I guess Baja and OBS/Impreza RS are the only ones left with steel hoods.

-juice

damish003

Makes you wonder why the disparity. Baja is Legacy based...Forester is Imprezza based. Why not just aluminum hoods all around? Aargh! Oh, well. Since I'm likely replacing my OBS with a Forester next year, this rust problem should be limited to my current car. But which Forester? Debate, debate, debate :confuse:

-Dan-

ateixeira

Well, Baja is previous-generation-Legacy-based, and back then the Legacy did not have an aluminum hood. So they had never stamped a hood in that shape.

What year OBS is that? I know the WRX has an aluminum hood, since 2002. But I'm not sure if the OBS' is steel or not. It was before 2002, but since then I'm not really sure. What model year is that one?

This much I know, there are aluminum hoods on these Subarus:

2003+ Forester (all)
2005+ Legacy and Outback (all)
2002+ WRX and STi

I'm not sure about the TS, RS, and OBS.

-juice

damish003

Mine's an 04 OBS.

-Dan-

ateixeira

Well, then if you're seeing rust, it's probably steel, which means only the WRX models get the aluminum hood.

If you get a paint chip you should touch it up ASAP. Galvanizing is just a coating, I'm sure it can scratch off the paint, and you end up with surface rust.

Naval jelly to clean it up, then touch-up paint, should fix it up.

-juice

damish003

So what the heck is naval jelly? Never heard of it. Something I can find at my Advance Auto store? Is it intended to remove the surface rust to prep for the touch-up paint? Sorry for the multitude of questions, but I HATE how my hood looks. I see it everytime I sit in the car. Yech!

Thanks pal,

-Dan-

ateixeira

Sounds like the opposite of belly button lint.

Yeah, an auto supply store will have some.

Wear gloves, then brush some on the spot, wait a bit, and wipe it off with a disposable cloth. Repeat until it's clean.

Then wash the area so it's completely clear and clean, and touch it up.

-juice

damish003

That sounds simple enough, even for a clutz like me. If it doesn't rain this weekend I'll give it a shot.

-Dan-

joseph50

My 2001 Forester S is due for its 60K scheduled servicing.
What may I expect to be paying if work is done by the dealership?
I live in the Philly area.
Thank you.

dcab

"Service said it's a normal noise that this year of Forester makes."

Hmmm, we have a 2003 Forester and it has NEVER made the sound you describe...

ericf1

Was listed on Subaru's website, now gone. Anyone know?

Hoping late May/June?

asa

< So what the heck is naval jelly? >

It's a goopy liquid that removes rust. You'll probably find it at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, Menard's, etc.. You paint it on and wait maybe 30 minutes or so depending on how bad the rust is; wear gloves and eye protection. It works really well and rinses off with water.