Engine oil: Any brand-name oil that meets the proper SAE requirements (see owners manual) should do. Personally, I'm using Mobil 1, but I don't know if there is a 5W-20(?) version for the 2002 owners yet.
Transmission fluid: There is something proprietary about the ATF (additive package maybe?) that Honda is not sharing with the rest of us. I'm sure other lube-makers would like to bring a clone of the Honda formula to market, but can't yet. I would stick with Honda fluid for peace of mind.
Rear-Differential fluid: Same story as above. The RT4WD uses the same fluid as Honda's CVT trannies. If we ever see a clone of the CVT fluid come to market, I believe we ought to be able to use it in place of the Honda "Dual-Pump Fluid."
Coolant: Finally . . . this is one fluid whose requirements are well-known. You don't need Honda coolant, but whatever coolant you choose must be silicate-, phosphate-, and borate-free. Key words on the bottle to look for are "Long-Life (5 years)," "organic rust inhibitors," and/or "GM DEX-COOL." Havoline, Prestone, and Xerex have such products in their lineup, but make sure you have the right one. For example, the Prestone in the long-familiar yellow bottle is a no-no.
I haven't quite gotten to the point where I need brake fluid yet. Maybe someone who has been there can comment on that one.
Luv2motor - Right click on the image you want to post (assuming Windows). Then go to properties. There's a URL address line there. It represents the true address for the image (not the page where the image is hosted). Copy that and paste it into your next message.
Part of the problem could be the photo service you have your pics hosted on. Some allow external linking while others do not. Posting the URL alone should tell us the answer.
Slugline - Is the CVT and Dual Pump fluid exactly the same stuff? I thought our engineer friend had some contrary advice on that subject. Maybe I'm remembering the end result of the debate incorrectly.
Are most of you getting the extended warranty or no on the CR-V? How much should it costs?
Also, is there an easy was to search on this board if this has been answered without me having to go thru all the post? I would like to just do a search for 'extended warranty' on the this thread.
I was offered a 75000 mile Ext. warranty for $750 when I bought my CRV.One reason you buy a Honda is reliability not that it is fast or quiet or comfortable.Sure there is a chance sonething will break at 36001 miles but not likely.You can still get the warranty before the factory one expires meanwhile use your $1000 for something else.I was talked into getting a 7 year 100k warranty on a 98 Acura CL I bought new.Never needed it and when I traded it in at 64k miles I was refunded about $350 of the $995 I spent on it.If you can't save $1000 in 3 years to buy the warranty maybe you better roll it into the financing.
Hi. I'm thinking of buying an '02 CR-V but, because of my past experiences with two Accords, I'm a little wary of the ability of the air conditioning to really cool the interior on a hot day. Anyone have either good or bad experiences? Thanks. ...Chuck
. . . and I feel comfortable with my decision to not get an extended warranty. From what I can tell, the extended warranty won't really show its "value" until you have at least a couple of major failures . . . so it's like having a savings account dedicated purely for car repairs. IMHO, if I'm earmarking money for unforseen expenses, I'd rather keep it in something with more liquidity. I may end up wishing that I had that money back for sudden expenses in other areas, like housing or medical.
Varmint: Dunno if the formulations are different, but their applications are the same. The original CR-V manuals specified "CVT Fluid" for the rear differential. The newer bottles labeled "Dual-Pump Fluid" (now recommended by our "Engineer pal") indicate that the contents are to be used for CVT trannies. I can't help but infer that the two are interchangeable!
I see you use Mobile 1. I am thinking about it as well, but Honda still wants us to follow the maintenance intervals for the oil, even if it is synthetic. Dealer said I can go to 10000mi, but not the manual. I suppose if you go to 7500mi under "normal" conditions you fall right in the middle and still keep your warranty valid. It seems to me that if the synthetics last longer, then all you need to really do is change the oil filter more frequently. What do you do? TIA
The Michelins look great, gatorgreg! Any problems with clearance, etc? (I assume the OEM spare cover won't fit) How are they for noise? And did they effect gas mileage much? I would think your mileage would be a bit lower. Thanks and feel free to post more pix!
I'm living in New York and decided to buy CR-V EX auto (Black or Blue). I did a test drive yesterday and I really like the car.The Salesperson ( hi Vlad!, you told me that you read Edmund often) told me that there is no way they will go below MSRP especially with those colors. He showed me the next shipment that they are getting and from about 15 cars only one black and one blue EX Auto. I have about 1.5 month left on my lease so I wasn't ready to buy a car right away plus I didn't want to pay MSRP. Edmunds TMV shows about $300 off MSRP for my area. Salesperson told me that TMV price is an average purchase price and in New York no one would go bellow MSRP with those colors. I just like to get your opinion on this and if any one from New York area got a good deal on CR-V. Thanks
Hi Chuck441 - I live in the Dallas/Fort Worth, Tx area and this last weekend was a humidity-from-hell event, with temps in the 90's with temperature/humidity indices easily in the 100's. The CR-V's air-conditioning performed as expected.
Two annoyances: 1) The temp-control detents reveal significantly non-linear performance. Going one-notch warmer from "COLDEST" produces a dramatic difference in air output. It could be said that COLDEST is too cold, with one-notch upwards too warm.
2)...and most irritating. When you accelerate strongly, the compressor cuts out for the high engine-rev moments of the event, leaving you with humid air for the duration of the event. Maybe it's a governor on the compressor, or the MPU is cutting out the compressor to eliminate drag on the engine during strong acceleration. Either way, it's not my fondest feature.
The dealer is trying to keep prices inflated. They will stay inflated until people start refusing to pay MSRP and walking out on these bums. I'm in a different state, but I'm here to tell you that you can find them on the lot if you look around. If those colors are so high in demand why is he only getting one of each?
As long as people keep paying sticker price you are in a pinch, however if you ALSO pay sticker price, the next guy is in the same boat as you are now. The manufacturer's are (in my opinion) throttling supply to create the artificial demand. The Highlander from Toyota is a perfect example of this.
Try this: Print up or write down what you want and what YOU are willing to pay for it. (even if that turns out to be below the TMV) Include documentation that shows you know the invoice and the holdback. Offer to buy a vehicle right off the truck to minimize dealer costs. Don't get greedy and ask the dealer to take NO profit at all, be reasonable. Put a line on the bottom stating "This offer is good for 'X' business days.", sign and date it and take it to the dealer. Tell the dealer you see his position, but that you have your own parameters to follow, present them with your offer, tell them to look at it and call you if they are interested in making a sale, and LEAVE. (that's the hard part) Don't call them back either. If they have not responded to you in the allotted number of days then move to the next dealer and do the same thing until you find one that will deal with you. If you call or go back even ONCE, the dealer knows they have you over a barrel and they are in the drivers seat. If after several dealers you can't get what you want for the price you want, seriously consider a different vehicle.
If all that fails, buy a one way ticket to a State that has them on the lot (and their are plenty of them) and go strike a deal. TMV in my area is sticker, and I didn't pay sticker and was STILL able to buy locally AND get what I wanted. (a blue 02 EX) Why would anybody pay sticker or even OVER STICKER is completely beyond me. If you have more money to spend, then go buy more vehicle.
I could rant more, but I'm cutting myself off here which is already too late....
Slugline - Thanks. There was a debate about CVT fluid being different than Dual Pump fluid, but I couldn't recall the outcome.
Freeber - I like your suggestion. There are two things I would add. If the dealer does not respond and you buy from someone else, tell them about it. Send another message letting them know why they lost a customer. It may help the next guy/gal who walks into their showroom. I would also remind them that the average life-long customer is worth at least $160,000 in sales business. After doing this, I will generally point to my wife and say, "she's the other customer you are losing; and she has expensive tastes".
A note on artificial demand. It doesn't happen. Honda has nothing at all to gain by reducing production to allow dealers the opportunity to overcharge. Any extra money made over invoice goes to the dealership, not Honda. The practice of price gouging also engenders mistrust and bad will with the customers. That's bad for all Honda dealers and Honda corporate.
Like yourself, I could go on and on, but there is essentially no good reason for Honda to do it. The reason for the short supply is a lack of production facilities. Honda is doing what they can to meet demand (like building the new Ody plant and bringing over English CR-Vs) to prevent this problem. They are not encouraging it.
As always, you're most likely right. In my haste I made assumptions about retooling plants and what-not to meet the demand with more production. I guess I really should have focused more on the 'we can't keep them on the lot, order now!!!' mentality. I had 2 seperate dealers try to get me to sign papers on vehicles because they "couldn't keep them on the lot" and yet here I am weeks later and there are at least a dozen on each lot.
Did anybody ge the tk6 tracker kit for their 2002 crv yet?
I ordered mine last week and I am anxiously awaiting it so I can complete my rack so I can get the full use of my 2002 crv!
I heard from many places that it will be a couple more weeks. I ordered one last week from an internet site that said they would be shipping it to me last Friday and I haven't recieved a shipping confirmation yet. I am wondering if they just took my order and will send it in 2 to 3 weeks like everywhere else I called. Does anybody have any info they could provide?
I've had no clearance promblems, there is plenty of room on the 2nd gen for this size tire. However, the spare is a VERY tight fit, I don't think anything bigger would fit w/out modification. These tires are fairly quiet, I believe they are OEM for the LX470 and QX4, so I'm guessing they are on the quiet side for truck tires. I put them on with about 100 miles on the odo so it's hard for me to say with certainty whether they are quieter than the stock Duelers, but I think they are. I made the same swap on my first gen and I seem to recall the ride was much plusher with the Michelins. I don't keep track of my mileage but I do eyeball it once in a while just to make sure it's over twenty. I think to calculate the exact mileage I would need to adjust the miles by some percentage to account for the larger circumference. Here's another pic of the tires for you You can see more pics of my 'V at this link:
Hi GatorGreg - Didn't you and I speak once about getting rid of our MDXs for these little jewels? BTW, you said the Michelin's are quiet. A they quieter than stock Bridgestones?
I think to get a good deal on a CRV you have to get away from large metropolitan areas.If you don't mind the drive.In San Diego they are all marked up but in Temecula 70 miles north they are dealing.Kind of like fishing.In a well stocked lake the fishermen will throw any bait at the fish and a lot bite.In a sparsely populated lake it takes a better bait.
I was doing changes with Mobil 1 every 3750 miles, which is the severe interval specified for my 2000 CR-V. Now that I am moving past the warranty period, I will be transitioning to per-5000-mile oil changes.
For you and other 2002 owners, however, I would not necessarily recommend blindly following my lead. As you may know already, the K24 engine in your vehicles is among a new generation of i-VTEC engines from Honda Motor Co., and is actually much more closely related to the K20 in the Acura RSX than the "old-school" B20 in my machine.
Y'all may actually want to consider comparing notes with the RSX owners to see what they are doing. Since they've got the more hyperkinetic (rev-happy) engines, I would guess that whatever works for them would be more than adequate for a new CR-V.
I find that interesting. I live in a sparsely populate area and found a better deal on my V in (or at least near) the big city (Houston area). Many people that I know go to the larger metropolitan areas to take advantage of better deals (all makes of vehicles). OTOH I sometimes hear folks from the big cities say that they save by going to the small towns. Do you think that dealers just like to make us drive long distances? ;-) Or maybe they take the local customers for granted?
Hey Varmint, whoever it was who started the rumor that silver never gets dirty was a big, fat LIAR
Diploid, yes I can open the hatch glass. The wiper also works fine, but it comes within a 1/4" or so of rubbing the wiper. I can manage to slide an envelope around the back of the spare, but that's it.
Tmeframe, I don't remember you, were you at the mdx forum under another name maybe? As for noise, as I said in my post above I think it is quieter, but I'm not sure. The noise in the 'V (1st and 2nd gen) has never bothered me, so I don't pay much attention to it. It's quiet enough that GG Jr. slept the enitre way home on a recent 2 hour drive.
Here's another shot. It's amazing what a little soap, water, and elbow grease can do
Here's a shot of the spare for diploid. Actually, I just wanted to show off my GoongalaGoonga sticker
Thank you for sharing your wondeful pictures. I have been following this forum for a couple of months, and could not decide what kind of tire should I put without to much compensation with the performance of V,and will look much bigger. I think you have a perfect combination on the tire and V body as to the original tire. Just curious.. Can you put 215x70x16 on the V? I wonder how it looks like and thought of Rav 4 with big tire and rim even though the body is kind of small. THANK YOU AGAIN.
Why thank you Chefs. Hmmm...maybe I should rename my 'V "Bo" Once again, you can click HERE to see many more pics of my 'V. As for the 215/70-16 rim/tire combo, I don't know. I think that combo is a little bit taller than my 225/70-15s, so it may be a problem to fit the spare. I personally prefer the 225 cuz IMO the extra width adds a subtle "beefy" look to the 'V.
Yep. I logged in under SteveMitchell on the AcuraMDX.org group.
Here's your last note to me:
Steve, sorry to see you go. The 1st gen CR-V is a fantastic vehicle, and the 2nd gen is even better. That's my beloved old 'V pictuted below (taken at the 2nd Annual Big CR-V Scrub........
Does anyone out there have the hard spare tire cover for the 2002, and if so, how do you like it? My dealer has said he has gotten mixed reviews about it and that some people who have ordered them have returned them.
Also, has anyone ordered from Hondapartsforyou.com. They seem to be the cheapest and have free shipping, but I'm wondering about their reliability and service.
Wow, I love those tires. My 2002 Ex 5sp looks awesome but the tire always look a little tiny to me. Bigger wheels seem to make a big difference. Does it throw you speedometer off? Also, do any people keep the spare tire cover off? I think it looks really sporty with it off but rarely see it.
I got the hard spare tire cover when I got my 2002 in December. It is not a true hard shell cover, it is vinyl around the edges, rather cheap looking (especially for the price). I was extremely disappointed and had them take it off and put on the standard vinyl cover. It is my understanding that only our friends in Canada have a true hard shell spare tire cover. I think this place is about the best for accessories: http://www.handa-accessories.com/crv02.html. I'm thinking of buying the hard cover and having it painted. An update on my CR-V, it is now set up to tow behind our motorhome, used the Blue Ox towbar system. Very pleased. Was also surprised to learn the mileage does not accumulate while being towed. Also can put 2 road bikes in the back by putting the rear tire in first and taking off the front wheel.
A word to those up north. Those spiffy tires GatorGreg has on his rig are great tires for handling, road noise, style, and they hold up well over the long run. However, they are not the best for all season use. If you live in the snowbelt, consider getting a cheap set of steel rims and snow tires for the winter months. If you're in an area like Southern New England (like me), then you probably want to stick with a standard all-season tread. With our inconsistent weather patterns, snow tires won't last long (expensive), yet a touring tire isn't going to give you the grip you'll need when it gets yucky out there. Feel free to match the size if you like it. Just be sure that you replace all five tires if you have RT4WD.
The tires look great, but your last picture prompted another question in my mind. Is the 'factory' rack adjustable? (move back and forth) I'm interested in how that whole system works and why Honda decided on this 'innovation' in roof rails.
I live in NY and just purchased a CR-V. I also had a hard time getting dealers to come on off msrp. The best I could do was about 500 of MSRP at Mahwah honda in NJ, so I decided to go with a demo with a roof rack.I know that the people on here are saying to go ther offer price and then leave.....but trust me I did it ....it didn't work. I talked for weeks online with one dealer and he wouldn't budge. The dealers are willing to wait to get close to MSRP. No where in ny or nj was I able to find better then 500 off brand new. Even if you tell them give me a good deal and I will buy tonight. U will not find CR-v's in the lots in NY. I would have had to wait until JUNE for my Cr-v with 500 off and I was able to take the demo home that week. The I dealer even paid for insurance over the easter weekend, so they could get it sold before end of month so they could order a new one next month.
Sounds like you did a good job. I looked all through Northern and central NJ last couple of weeks for a CRV. Found some at sticker. All said we get 2000 over sticker so we are giving you a deal (yuck). Paying sticker goes against all the laws of nature and truly sickened me, but, I payed sticker. I tried and tried I tell you but to no avail. We had a lease up last Thursday and had to buy by than. Could have walked away but to what? No other options for the price! Found a couple of 5sp ex in colors we liked so that saved us some money.
I got a quote of $21,500 for an EX manual from InvoiceDealers.com. That was actually below the TMV. We test drove a CR-V last week and the wife liked it.
But...we ended up buying a Legacy L wagon for $17,827. Hard to beat that kind of value, and we got AWD, 4 wheel disc brakes with ABS, PW/PL/PS, cruise, A/C, keyless, so it's not stripped. It has a little less rear passenger space, but a much wider and deeper cargo floor area, and more front leg room. In the cargo bay we were able to fit a stroller and change a diaper behind it, with rain shelter from the hatch (actually did just that on Saturday in pouring rain).
Honda ought to offer ABS on the LX model, to compete at lower price levels. Also, 2WD comes in automatic only. We have a Forester so FWD would have been OK for this vehicle, if only to get the price down.
We paid only taxes on top of that price, and got 6 free oil changes and a service loaner for life from the dealer, plus a longer powertrain warranty. Wife seems happy so we're good to go.
Thanks to everyone here for the advice and information. Maybe that no-hassle quote can help someone here, so I can return the favor.
That's what I thought I recalled from some install directions I looked at online. (can't find them now) I called Yakima and their rep claims their rack is going to fit into the stock location, hold 120-130lbs. and be adjustable. I suggested he was crazy, but he 'assured' me that the whole wacky plastic part comes off and there is a track underneath. (he also said it would be 6 months before the rack was available to the public...nothing like being a year behind)
Anyhow, he said the system would look nearly identical to the "Locking Railrider" system on their web site. I took a look and I don't see how they can make it work. Maybe somebody else can.
So I ordered a Silver EX that should be arriving in a couple days. We settled at 22,100 plus tax + lic. That sounds like a fair price. Does that still sound like a good price?
I ordered a tracker kit from thule to complete my rack, it is in the mail as we speak (assuming they sent it out). So thule is about 6 months ahead of Yakima, I am not sure but I think the thule will attach at the points where the factory rack attach. Not being able to adjust is kind of a pain, but I will take what I can...
Congradulations Fern!!! it sounds like you got a decent deal!
I have had my 2002 EX AT CR-V for over a month now. It has less than 2500 miles on it. This afternoon while driving, the malfunction indicator light came on. I did not notice anything different with the vehicle. After checking owner's manual, I found this could be caused by a lot of things related to emission control system, one of them could be a loose fuel fill cap. Has anybody here experienced similar problems? I will drive to work tomorrow and see if the light goes off then. If not I will have to take it to my dealer 30 miles away to have it checked. It is really annoying that auto makers bundle literally hundreds of things that could go wrong and use that one indicator light to tell the driver that your vehicle has problems, it could be just a loose fuel fill cap, it could also be a major problem that could damage your vehicle's ENGINE.
I had my new 2002 CR-V EX for exactly 3 DAYS when the "Maintenance Required" light came on. I, too, checked the manual and discovered it could be something as simple as the fuel cap being left loose or as major as a damaged exhaust system. As I was on my way to work, I used my cell phone to call the Honda dealer who sold me the car and told him to either take me in right now to check out the car, or take the car back. (Needless to say, he took me right away!)
After a bunch of mumbo-jumbo about software upgrades and new designs, they convinced me there was nothing wrong with my car that a little "teaching it how I drive" wouldn't solve.
Since then, the Maintenance Required light has come on once more. However, when I checked the fuel filler cap, it was loose. I tightened it and drove on. In fact, I drove from my home in Neptune, NJ to Manhattan, NY and back. The light remained on the entire time. In the morning, when I started the car for work, the light was still on. But at some point on the way to work, the light went off. When I called the dealer about this, I was told it could take that long for the software to reset, even when the vacuum in the fuel system is restored within a short while.
All has been well since then until this week when my "Side Air bag Off" light lit up. Since it was only on for a short time (maybe five minutes) I tried to ignore it. My dealer had told me when I first bought the car that the Side Air bag Off light would come on if I sat in the seat in a way that put pressure on the sensor or if something leaned on the passenger door "just right".
With all these warning lights going on and off, my dashboard of my car is looking more like a Christmas tree than the great quality Honda CR-V I have grown to love!
OMG chooki... Either that woman weighed as much as a toothpick, or the CR-V's roof is extremely strong. I'm no physicist, but I can imagine the extreme force of an adult human dropping 14 stories.
Susanlm - The software that checks for emissions has a bug. Being an LEV II vehicle, the equipment is very sensitive. As a result of the bug, the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on under very specific circumstances. This is very hard to reproduce and not everyone has the problem. Honda has developed a fix for the software, but, because it relates to emissions controls, the US gov't has to approve of it. That means red tape. Last I heard, Honda was expecting to have the fix avalable to customers early this Summer (possibly May).
As for the side airbag light... The seats have sensors in them, which prevent the side airbags from deploying if they detect that the passenger is too small (a child) or if they are out of position (leaning against the door). In both cases, the airbag might do more harm than good. My wife's Acura TL has this feature and I've seen the light come on when she leans to reach something in the back seat. Some folks have found that a briefcase, heavy organizer, or any other reasonably heavy object can trick the sensors into thinking that there is a (too small) passenger in the seat and the light comes on.
Hi I have my 2002 CR-V ex auto for 11/2 months,I love the ride but would love to put 18's inch chrome rims on them with low profiles. I paid $22,040 in bay ridge bklyn NY.
Comments
Transmission fluid: There is something proprietary about the ATF (additive package maybe?) that Honda is not sharing with the rest of us. I'm sure other lube-makers would like to bring a clone of the Honda formula to market, but can't yet. I would stick with Honda fluid for peace of mind.
Rear-Differential fluid: Same story as above. The RT4WD uses the same fluid as Honda's CVT trannies. If we ever see a clone of the CVT fluid come to market, I believe we ought to be able to use it in place of the Honda "Dual-Pump Fluid."
Coolant: Finally . . . this is one fluid whose requirements are well-known. You don't need Honda coolant, but whatever coolant you choose must be silicate-, phosphate-, and borate-free. Key words on the bottle to look for are "Long-Life (5 years)," "organic rust inhibitors," and/or "GM DEX-COOL." Havoline, Prestone, and Xerex have such products in their lineup, but make sure you have the right one. For example, the Prestone in the long-familiar yellow bottle is a no-no.
I haven't quite gotten to the point where I need brake fluid yet. Maybe someone who has been there can comment on that one.
Part of the problem could be the photo service you have your pics hosted on. Some allow external linking while others do not. Posting the URL alone should tell us the answer.
Slugline - Is the CVT and Dual Pump fluid exactly the same stuff? I thought our engineer friend had some contrary advice on that subject. Maybe I'm remembering the end result of the debate incorrectly.
Also, is there an easy was to search on this board if this has been answered without me having to go thru all the post? I would like to just do a search for 'extended warranty' on the this thread.
thanks
-fern
when I bought my CRV.One reason you buy a Honda
is reliability not that it is fast or quiet or
comfortable.Sure there is a chance sonething will
break at 36001 miles but not likely.You can still
get the warranty before the factory one expires
meanwhile use your $1000 for something else.I was talked into getting a 7 year 100k warranty on a
98 Acura CL I bought new.Never needed it and
when I traded it in at 64k miles I was refunded
about $350 of the $995 I spent on it.If you can't
save $1000 in 3 years to buy the warranty maybe you better roll it into the financing.
Varmint: Dunno if the formulations are different, but their applications are the same. The original CR-V manuals specified "CVT Fluid" for the rear differential. The newer bottles labeled "Dual-Pump Fluid" (now recommended by our "Engineer pal") indicate that the contents are to be used for CVT trannies. I can't help but infer that the two are interchangeable!
TIA
Thanks
Two annoyances:
1) The temp-control detents reveal significantly non-linear performance. Going one-notch warmer from "COLDEST" produces a dramatic difference in air output. It could be said that COLDEST is too cold, with one-notch upwards too warm.
2)...and most irritating. When you accelerate strongly, the compressor cuts out for the high engine-rev moments of the event, leaving you with humid air for the duration of the event. Maybe it's a governor on the compressor, or the MPU is cutting out the compressor to eliminate drag on the engine during strong acceleration. Either way, it's not my fondest feature.
As long as people keep paying sticker price you are in a pinch, however if you ALSO pay sticker price, the next guy is in the same boat as you are now. The manufacturer's are (in my opinion) throttling supply to create the artificial demand. The Highlander from Toyota is a perfect example of this.
Try this: Print up or write down what you want and what YOU are willing to pay for it. (even if that turns out to be below the TMV) Include documentation that shows you know the invoice and the holdback. Offer to buy a vehicle right off the truck to minimize dealer costs. Don't get greedy and ask the dealer to take NO profit at all, be reasonable. Put a line on the bottom stating "This offer is good for 'X' business days.", sign and date it and take it to the dealer. Tell the dealer you see his position, but that you have your own parameters to follow, present them with your offer, tell them to look at it and call you if they are interested in making a sale, and LEAVE. (that's the hard part) Don't call them back either. If they have not responded to you in the allotted number of days then move to the next dealer and do the same thing until you find one that will deal with you. If you call or go back even ONCE, the dealer knows they have you over a barrel and they are in the drivers seat. If after several dealers you can't get what you want for the price you want, seriously consider a different vehicle.
If all that fails, buy a one way ticket to a State that has them on the lot (and their are plenty of them) and go strike a deal. TMV in my area is sticker, and I didn't pay sticker and was STILL able to buy locally AND get what I wanted. (a blue 02 EX) Why would anybody pay sticker or even OVER STICKER is completely beyond me. If you have more money to spend, then go buy more vehicle.
I could rant more, but I'm cutting myself off here which is already too late....
Freeber - I like your suggestion. There are two things I would add. If the dealer does not respond and you buy from someone else, tell them about it. Send another message letting them know why they lost a customer. It may help the next guy/gal who walks into their showroom. I would also remind them that the average life-long customer is worth at least $160,000 in sales business. After doing this, I will generally point to my wife and say, "she's the other customer you are losing; and she has expensive tastes".
A note on artificial demand. It doesn't happen. Honda has nothing at all to gain by reducing production to allow dealers the opportunity to overcharge. Any extra money made over invoice goes to the dealership, not Honda. The practice of price gouging also engenders mistrust and bad will with the customers. That's bad for all Honda dealers and Honda corporate.
Like yourself, I could go on and on, but there is essentially no good reason for Honda to do it. The reason for the short supply is a lack of production facilities. Honda is doing what they can to meet demand (like building the new Ody plant and bringing over English CR-Vs) to prevent this problem. They are not encouraging it.
I digress....
I ordered mine last week and I am anxiously awaiting it so I can complete my rack so I can get the full use of my 2002 crv!
I heard from many places that it will be a couple more weeks. I ordered one last week from an internet site that said they would be shipping it to me last Friday and I haven't recieved a shipping confirmation yet. I am wondering if they just took my order and will send it in 2 to 3 weeks like everywhere else I called. Does anybody have any info they could provide?
Pics of GatorGreg's 'V
Gator - Love the accessory color palette you have splattered on the hood.
-Steve
marked up but in Temecula 70 miles north they are
dealing.Kind of like fishing.In a well stocked
lake the fishermen will throw any bait at the fish
and a lot bite.In a sparsely populated lake it
takes a better bait.
For you and other 2002 owners, however, I would not necessarily recommend blindly following my lead. As you may know already, the K24 engine in your vehicles is among a new generation of i-VTEC engines from Honda Motor Co., and is actually much more closely related to the K20 in the Acura RSX than the "old-school" B20 in my machine.
Y'all may actually want to consider comparing notes with the RSX owners to see what they are doing. Since they've got the more hyperkinetic (rev-happy) engines, I would guess that whatever works for them would be more than adequate for a new CR-V.
Diploid, yes I can open the hatch glass. The wiper also works fine, but it comes within a 1/4" or so of rubbing the wiper. I can manage to slide an envelope around the back of the spare, but that's it.
Tmeframe, I don't remember you, were you at the mdx forum under another name maybe? As for noise, as I said in my post above I think it is quieter, but I'm not sure. The noise in the 'V (1st and 2nd gen) has never bothered me, so I don't pay much attention to it. It's quiet enough that GG Jr. slept the enitre way home on a recent 2 hour drive.
Here's another shot. It's amazing what a little soap, water, and elbow grease can do
Here's a shot of the spare for diploid. Actually, I just wanted to show off my GoongalaGoonga sticker
Here's your last note to me:
Steve, sorry to see you go. The 1st gen CR-V is a fantastic vehicle, and the 2nd gen is even better. That's my beloved old 'V pictuted below (taken at the 2nd Annual Big CR-V Scrub........
-Steve
Also, has anyone ordered from Hondapartsforyou.com. They seem to be the cheapest and have free shipping, but I'm wondering about their reliability and service.
Thanks in advance.
But...we ended up buying a Legacy L wagon for $17,827. Hard to beat that kind of value, and we got AWD, 4 wheel disc brakes with ABS, PW/PL/PS, cruise, A/C, keyless, so it's not stripped. It has a little less rear passenger space, but a much wider and deeper cargo floor area, and more front leg room. In the cargo bay we were able to fit a stroller and change a diaper behind it, with rain shelter from the hatch (actually did just that on Saturday in pouring rain).
Honda ought to offer ABS on the LX model, to compete at lower price levels. Also, 2WD comes in automatic only. We have a Forester so FWD would have been OK for this vehicle, if only to get the price down.
We paid only taxes on top of that price, and got 6 free oil changes and a service loaner for life from the dealer, plus a longer powertrain warranty. Wife seems happy so we're good to go.
Thanks to everyone here for the advice and information. Maybe that no-hassle quote can help someone here, so I can return the favor.
-juice
But Subaru is guilty of this, too. WRXs in Canada get heated seats.
-juice
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Anyhow, he said the system would look nearly identical to the "Locking Railrider" system on their web site. I took a look and I don't see how they can make it work. Maybe somebody else can.
Congradulations Fern!!! it sounds like you got a decent deal!
After a bunch of mumbo-jumbo about software upgrades and new designs, they convinced me there was nothing wrong with my car that a little "teaching it how I drive" wouldn't solve.
Since then, the Maintenance Required light has come on once more. However, when I checked the fuel filler cap, it was loose. I tightened it and drove on. In fact, I drove from my home in Neptune, NJ to Manhattan, NY and back. The light remained on the entire time. In the morning, when I started the car for work, the light was still on. But at some point on the way to work, the light went off. When I called the dealer about this, I was told it could take that long for the software to reset, even when the vacuum in the fuel system is restored within a short while.
All has been well since then until this week when my "Side Air bag Off" light lit up. Since it was only on for a short time (maybe five minutes) I tried to ignore it. My dealer had told me when I first bought the car that the Side Air bag Off light would come on if I sat in the seat in a way that put pressure on the sensor or if something leaned on the passenger door "just right".
With all these warning lights going on and off, my dashboard of my car is looking more like a Christmas tree than the great quality Honda CR-V I have grown to love!
Susan
A 2001 Honda CRV broke her fall..
-Chuck
Either that woman weighed as much as a toothpick, or the CR-V's roof is extremely strong. I'm no physicist, but I can imagine the extreme force of an adult human dropping 14 stories.
As for the side airbag light... The seats have sensors in them, which prevent the side airbags from deploying if they detect that the passenger is too small (a child) or if they are out of position (leaning against the door). In both cases, the airbag might do more harm than good. My wife's Acura TL has this feature and I've seen the light come on when she leans to reach something in the back seat. Some folks have found that a briefcase, heavy organizer, or any other reasonably heavy object can trick the sensors into thinking that there is a (too small) passenger in the seat and the light comes on.