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Jeep Wrangler

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    huck6huck6 Member Posts: 37
    Plug the specifics of the Jeep that you are looking at into Edmunds TMV (true market value)calculator to see if it is a fair price. I did that with a '99 that I was looking at and was pleased with the price that I picked it up for.

    Sounds like the extended warrenty will be a good bet. You never really know how it was treated before you bought it.
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    huck6huck6 Member Posts: 37
    Hey, if you ever figure out what went wrong with your shift light, let us know. I'd love for mine to go out! :-)
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    jutahjutah Member Posts: 15
    Hey all,

    I went to around looking for a stereo and speakers today and had a question that keep coming up. All the places I went to aked me if I knew if the pods and the front were wired yet? Does anyone know if they come pre wired so all I have to do is add the speakers and CD unit? I don't know much about this stereo stuff, but I am being told if they have to wire it the installation cost will be higher.

    Also I tried again to get my shift light to come up by giving it less gas. No luck though. Looking through the book it says I should shift to 2nd at 15MPH. If I wait to then my RPMs are already past 3,000. I thought around 2000 was a good time?

    Thanks,

    jutah
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    tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Since you have the four cylinder, your shift points may be at a somewhat higher RPMs than mine. I will try to pay attention to the RPMs next time I drive Thelma Jane. I just shift by the sound of the engine. Unless I am messing around and accelerating more than usual, I think my shifting corresponds pretty well to the shift light.

    I would guess my normal shift point is about 2500 to 2700 RPMs. That's a guess, and I WILL try to remember to look next time.

    Have you learned to take off from a dead stop on an incline without rolling back very much? That's one of the toughest things to learn, but it's not that hard.

    One little trick you can use is to set the emergency brake, which allows you to get your right foot off the brake petal and use it for the gas petal when you start to pull away. So, with the emergency brake set, you can have the clutch in, the tranny if first gear, and your right foot on the gas. When you are ready to go, ease the clutch out and give the Jeep some gas, as if you were taking off normally. When you feel the Jeep just beginning to pull, let off the hand brake, and you are on your way!

    You can do sort of the same thing without using the emergency brake, if you want to. While you are setting there with the clutch in, tranny in first, and the right foot on the brake, just begin to ease the clutch out and when it just begins to pull, switch your right foot to the gas.

    What you DO NOT want to do is to hold the Jeep on an incline by letting the clutch out a little and letting it slip. That's a great way to burn out your clutch!

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
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    tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Yeah, Thelma would leak just from being out in the rain, even if she was parked. I think the water from the gutter under the windshield was running down and getting through the gap in the firewall where the heater box went through. That's one thing they can check, anyway. Thelma got fixed in one trip to the dealer. I think they had seen that leak before. Yours could be something alltogther different, though.

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
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    jutahjutah Member Posts: 15
    I have got alot better. The first time I had to drive to work in rush hour last week I probably held the clutch a little bit more then I should of. Now I pretty much let it out till I fell it start to grab and then give it the gas(sometimes too much!) I am working on doing it a little faster.

    I am also working on learning to downshift better. At first if I started to break I would put it in N and then based on what speed I was going put it in what I needed to be in. I find myself thinking a little too much :).

    Thanks,

    jutah
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    2001wrangler2001wrangler Member Posts: 112
    I would say that your Jeep is completely wired for speakers already. I would also recommend installing the stereo and speakers yourself. It is really very easy and if you buy the stuff from Crutchfield.com, they will give you all of the wiring adapters and everything you need with pretty good instructions. It is no big deal and you can save yourself some $$ to do something else nice to your Jeep with!! If you have any questions, I (as well as others on the board) would be glad to help
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    twylietwylie Member Posts: 619
    It should be easy to see if the wires are there already. On my 2001, to remove the front grille in the dash, there is a screw on the side that you can get to after you open the door. After removing this, you can just pry the cover off. You'll see the mounting point and hopefully the wires. Do the "pods" in your '03 have grilles on them already? If they do, just remove a grille and check. as 2001wrangler said, feel free to ask if you have questions.

    -twylie
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    arh11arh11 Member Posts: 11
    Just wondering if anyone has any advice on my door handles. One both the driver and passanger sides, the black began to peel, and now rust is setting in. Is there a convincing way to cover this?? What about replacing...something I can do myself?? (I'm a bit inexperienced with tools...but willing to learn!!)

    Also, any ideas how much I'm looking at to replace my windshield (I cannot make a claim on insurance)?? Apparantly the drastic temperature changes were just to much, because I now have a lovely crack about 14" long!

    Thanks! BTW...still working on bringing down Bank One.
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    shill3shill3 Member Posts: 124
    Shop around. We have several places in town for windshield repair and replacement. Most will come to your home or business and do it right then and there.

    I would guess it should run about $100 - $150, at least that's what it ran for my CJ and they do not look any more complicated on the TJ.
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    jptjjptj Member Posts: 53
    Old Red turn 130K today and still going strong. And I did a dumb thing doing the snow / ice we had in Maryland I had to use 4 Drive in the parking lots at work. And I was in a Hurry to get home (southern Virginia) So I hop in and drove 60 Miles before I notice it was engaged, by the way the road was a little damp.That was two weeks ago so far no problems.

    arh11
    shill3 is right shop around I had my windshield replace three times the frist for 525 the last time for 325
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    dewarsdewars Member Posts: 58
     Hi Gang,
     I am considering a Teraflex "belly-up" skid pan. I can gain a few inches of clearance by doing this. Anybody have any experience with this?
      Also Thanks to div 2 for the info on the cibie head lamps.

    dewars
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    twylietwylie Member Posts: 619
    I've only read up on them but most of the belly up kits require a SYE and recommend adjustable control arms to dial in the pinon angle. That part of the Jeep under the xfer case really drags so it's great to gain that clearance if you can.

    I elected to go the skid route for the time being. I installed a skid row engine skid and it has saved me from getting hung up on a few trips. It won't save me from a high center, but as long as I can keep a couple of tires in contact, it's been workable on the trails I've run. It's fun to see passengers faces when they hear the dragging across the rocks, thinking you have just trashed your vehicle.

    Keep us posted if you go with the belly up; I'd love to get your thoughts and experience with it. It's on my long term wish list but I've got many things ahead of it for now! :-)

    -twylie
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    dewarsdewars Member Posts: 58
    I installed my lift and control arms last summer and have been getting by without a SYE kit and new driveline by using a transfer case lowering kit. It really defeats some of the purpose of lifting and running larger tires! Plus I hate the way it looks.
     So next week I'm doing the SYE, Belly up kit, 1" body lift, and new drive line. Then I'll put on my FourX Doctor rock sliders and it's off to Moab! I'll let you know how I like it.
    dewars
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    mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    dewars - Keep us informed on how you do in Moab, and have a great time. Sure wish I could go with you!

    jptj - Glad to see yours is still having fun at 130K. Just a guess, but I would think that if you were going to have problems, you would have had them already. I really do wonder just how much slip you have to have and under what conditions, to keep the 4x4 system from binding up. I have heard the churping tires a couple of times when my other half left it in 4 high once we got out of our driveway onto the plowed road and then did a hard turn to straighten out (he immediately put it back into 2WD when they churped). Has anyone here known someone who actually damaged their 4x4 this way?
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    twylietwylie Member Posts: 619
    sounds like a great build up... You should be ready to tackle the 'con no problems. I look forward to hearing about the trip once you return.

    I forgot about the body lift as the other requirement for a belly up. If you get a chance, take a tape to the xfer skid before and after and let us know exactly how much clearance you gain after all the changes.

    -twylie
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    justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    ....have any experience with an 03 Wrangler with the "new" 4 speed automatic tran?
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    jutahjutah Member Posts: 15
    Hi all,

    Went to the dealer today to find out the problem with the shift light. They found out that I had a bad power control module and they had to send away for the part. They didn't seem to think that it would affect anything else so I was able to take the Jeep home till they get the part in.

    I also noticed if I am in first and start to drift down a hill the trans acts funny? Is this normal? I hope or I am starting to get worried.

    As for the tunes, I got them installed at circuit city last weekend. They told me that I wasn't wired and killed me for a buck twenty for installation. I would up getting a two pairs of Polks for the front and the back. One pair was on special half price. I also got a Kenwood CD which had free installation. I would have got the Alpine, but they wanted me to shell out an other 55.

    I'll let you all know how the power control mod turns out.

    Seeya,

    jutah
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    kelleyokelleyo Member Posts: 182
    Congrats on the new sound system!

    I did a similar setup in my 99 with an Alpine head unit.

    Ultimately I decided to add a subwoofer as well but I did not want to give up the rear trunk area.

    I ended up getting a Mopar sound deck. I found someone selling new ones cheap on ebay:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3012614388- - &category=18802
    THese are about 400 bucks new at a dealer...

    I installed it myself but took it to circuit city for wiring up.

    To get it to work I had to put in a seperate amp with RCA to connect to the head unit and then we wired around the sound deck amp directly to the speaker.

    It really has transformed the sound. If you decide to add a sub and want a nice factory look and still have a locking trunk area I recommend this. It will cost a bit more than a simple sub enclosure however.
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    johnshome1johnshome1 Member Posts: 8
    Yes, I have an 03 Sahara automatic (wife can't drive standard) in the new light metallic khaki. No problems, seems to have decent acceleration and smooth exchanges between the gears. Any other questions?
    JohnS
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    twylietwylie Member Posts: 619
    the sound you may be hearing when in first and going downhill... is it with your foot off the gas and it sound like a whineing noise? If so, it's completely normal and is just the engine braking being provided that is holding the transmission from moving faster. This is how you make steep decents when offroad. Put it in first gear, 4LO and let the engine slow you down. Stay off the gas and brakes if possible.

    If it's not what hearing, try to better describe the noise and conditions and maybe we can help you determine if it's "normal" or not.

    -twylie
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    nolid5nolid5 Member Posts: 148
    johnshome1 - How is the new auto trans at highway speeds? I have read a lot on this board about the need to improve the old 3 spd auto.
    I have a similar problem, my wife refuses to drive stick. If it was going to be a 3rd vehicle I'd tell her too bad!, but since it will be a 2nd car she will need to drive it sometimes.

    shill3 - I even tried your suggestion and she didn't take it. Boy, she's more stubborn than I thought ;)

    Oh well, maybe I could get 2 wranglers. Yeah that's a good idea a his & hers.... oh well until I win the lottery I guess I'll have have to settle for an automatic. I'll just make sure I load it up....Hey, maybe I could sell her on a "Rubi", ok, ok, now I'm really dreaming.

    Rich

    Wishin' I could wave, but I know there's a Jeep in my future. BTW, my kids got me a RC Jeep for my B-Day. I think I gave them "Jeep Fever" ha ha
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    justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    i love the Jeep 5 speed - kind of fun. but gets old on the beltway in traffic. i would have never dreamed of an automatic Wrangler with the old 3 speed auto - but now that they have upgraded to 80's technology, the 4 speed might not be too bad if the torque converter can handle the torque. i know Chrylser automatic aren't the best reliability wise, but perhaps this 4 speed unit comes from the Cherokee. not that that idea is much better....

    thanks!
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    justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    have you noticed that this year you can't get a Wrangler with ABS and the 30" wheels? at least in the 5 speed anyway. what gives?
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    artistinokcartistinokc Member Posts: 4
    Okay... I'm sure you've discussed this topic alot before, but for the life of me I've searched and can't find it!

    I just got a 2003 Wrangler Sahara.. the world's most awesome vehicle and a HUGE change from the old 1979 CJ5 I had. I got the dual top package and I have two questions:

    First, I've read posts about a winch/hoist for removing the hard top in your garage and everyone says they work great, but you never say where you got it nor can I find a link... HELP! I need one of these today! It's 80 degrees gorgeous and sunny and I cannot get the damned thing off by myself!

    Second, call me stupid, but do these hard doors stay on forever? I mean when you took the tops off my old 79, the doors just lifted up off their hinges and went away. I don't see that here with the new one and the manuals say nothing about it.

    Thanks in advance!
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    mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Go to Google, type in 'Jeep' 'hardtop' and 'hoist', and you'll get more links than you can shake a stick at.

    Your doors lift off easily when you remove the nuts from the hinge pins. Take care though, full steel doors are heavier than they look!
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    tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Like Mac 24 says, those doors are heavy! You just need a 13 MM boxed end wrench for the hinge nuts. I recommend the boxed end to prevent the wrench from slipping and scratching your paint. Just go nice and easy with the wrench.

    Some people put a rag over the nut to prevent the paint from chipping, but this didn't work for me. I still knocked the paint off the corners on the nuts.

    When you are ready to come up with the doors, be sure to come up SLOWLY and STRAIGHT UP. Those exposed threads on the hinge pins will make some awful nasty scratches if you let them contact the Jeep. Be ready for a load: the doors are heavy, so don't let the load take you by surprise. Oh, be sure not to forget to disconnect the door straps first. (Wouldn't want that to hang and cause you to let the door hinge pins hit the Jeep.)

    You'll need to pull the #4 fuse in the fuse panel behind the glove box to keep your interior light from staying on while the doors are off. Don't worry if the light takes a few seconds to go off after pulling the fuse. There's a delay circuit that will keep them on for a short time.

    Check your owners manual for sure, but I think the fuse you want (# 4) is the bottom fuse in the right hand column.

    Oh yeah, WELCOME to the board! Stick with us.

    I think it's OK for me to mention Quadratec as long as I don't post a link to their site. They carry the hoist you are looking for. Also, they have some real nice door bags to store your doors in while they are off the Jeep. These bags are lined to protect from scratches.

    I keep thinking of more stuff to tell ya. There are moulded plastic pieces on the corners of the tub near the door latches, and these should be removed when you take the hard top off. It doesn't hurt anything to leave them on there, except that they might fall off and get lost. These are only needed to help seat the hard top properly.
     
    Good luck

    Tom

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
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    artistinokcartistinokc Member Posts: 4
    Tons of help!

    I did the google search and found directions to make my own hoist! Went and bought all the parts for about $60 last night and was up till 1am installing pulleys and ropes... now I just need to do a google search on knots... my little simple square ones aren't gonna hold for the long haul. (hey... not all girls are completely helpless! I even used some power tools!)

    I knew those doors came off... I looked and looked at that silly nut on the hinge, but wondered about getting it off without scratches. I even went so far as searching the jack area and stuff for some special, secret tool they may have put in there!....

    I love my Jeep... can't wait for the wind in my hair, today is another gorgeous day! Beautiful blue skies and a slight breeze, about 75... perfect! May even hook up those mountain bikes and head for the hills!

    Tell me, has anyone purchased the add-a-trunk thing? I finally found a picture of it on the web and it looks pretty cool. I'm thinking it would be great when we go out mountain biking or climbing with the top off, then we could lock up things in the jeep without worries...
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    geepersgeepers Member Posts: 93
    After years of driving around with my hard top, I decided global warming has arrived and I bought a soft top (Bestop supertop)for my '91. I haven't installed it yet since they recommend the temp be 70 or above so the top can more easily be stretched into place.

    I also bought the big Tuffy security box that takes up most the room in the back. I didn't figure the smaller ones would handle what I wanted to store in them. I haven't got it installed yet since I just got it. But here's my take so far.

    You'll have to remove the rear seat and its brackets. Also the seat belts from the floor which on mine requires a Torx tool. And the seat locking brackets on the side of the wheel wells. They advertise no drilling required on the YJ and TJ models but it's unclear to me if that's true since the instructions talk about drilling holes in the floor. It obviously ain't going to go in and out easily which is the point I suppose.

    I intend to leave my vehicle unlocked with the soft top on and this will give me a place to store things and feel a little more at ease anyway. I assume the locks are stout although, not being a thief, that is just a layman's observation.
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    bamatazzbamatazz Member Posts: 311
    Hello artistinokc
      Welcome to the board..
      I have the hoist-a-top myslef.
    it makes getting that top off ALOT easier..
    just one note.. make sure.. when lowering.. your doors must be open or off..
     i forgot when i lowered it..i was off mark a little and scratched my doors..
      i think I paid about 150.00 for mine..doesnt take long to install. Just make sure u intall it securely.
      My local dealership, ships parts out everywhere & their prices are very good..
      I would be gald to give you more info if ya want.
     
    BamaTAzz
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    mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    Your weather sounds heavenly to me right now. At the moment I'm looking at heavy rain, they are talking about urban flooding below us and my other half is on his way to our tax accountant for the bad news. I was supposed to go with him but I've been sick for a week (when it has been like your weather, warm and sunny) and now that I'm thinking I'll live, it rains! It isn't even cold enough to snow, so I lose out all the way around.

    I've looked at a Sahara with the add a trunk. It wouldn't work for me - I rarely have the back seat in and I often carry my hiking buddy (a Golden Retriever) with me (reason for no seat). It would definitely be in the way for him. On the other hand, I don't have a garage or any place else to store my hard top, so mine has never been off.

    If you are going doorless, check your state laws about mirrors. The mirrors are attached to the doors and some states (like California) are more fussy about having them than others. There was quite a bit of discussion on this board a while ago on this topic, and what various people have done.

    Have fun being top down - I envy you your weather right now (and also anyone who has snow - wish we had some).
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    johnshome1johnshome1 Member Posts: 8
    Nolid5 - no problem at 70 mph. Still has more to go, and doesn't feel strained. Although it doesn't see the intersate much, it's good to know that it can handle highway cruising speeds without any problems. I've been pleased so far.
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    kelleyokelleyo Member Posts: 182
    OK, I have had the standard problems shifting into second or reverse. I was told the inner boot was the problem so I took off the "accordian" rubber outer boot (and broke the clip in the process). Suddenly it shifted WONDERFULLY. Obviously the inner boot is not the issue. Unfortunately it did not look good. I went to my Jeep dealer and got a new clip and resinstalled the boot. Now I am back to the same problems.
    It appears that the rubber boot gets bunched up against the shifter stick when going into those gears. The problem is magnified since I have a 3 inch body lift and therefore the shifter angle is worse.

    I have been told that one way to fix it is to move the console back a bit. I have also thought about getting a different boot (maybe leather) that is more flexible than the rubber accordian...

    But lo and behold I think I have the answer. I just saw in my summit racing catalog that B&M has a short throw shifter for Wranglers. Assuming that the throws are shorter then I won't have the "bunching" problem with the boot.

    Any one here have experience with these? Easy install?

    Excerpt from www.b&m.com
     What Is A B&M Short Throw Shifter?
    A B&M Short Throw Shifter is a direct, bolt-on, self-contained unit. When you buy a B&M Short Throw Shifter, along with the complete shifter unit, you get explicit installation instructions. Installation usually takes about 30 minutes with nothing more than ordinary hand tools.

    Why Should I Buy A B&M Short Throw Shifter?
    A B&M Short Throw Shifter offers a dramatic improvement in shifting performance due in large part to reduced shifter travel, or ‘shift throw’.

    Why Should ‘Shift Throw’ Matter To Me?
    ‘Shift throw’ refers directly to actual physical travel of the shifter stick - thus affecting the time it takes to shift from one gear to another (see illustration). In a performance situation, the additional seconds (or fractions of a second) a factory stock shifter takes to go from one gear to another can result in slower elapsed times - or just a sluggish feeling when driving around town. A B&M Short Throw Shifter eliminates that sluggish feeling in a daily driver, and gives the racer an extra edge.

    Why Should I Buy A B&M Shifter?
    B&M has been in the shifter technology business for almost 50 years. No one has as much time invested in the research, development and practical application of shifter/transmission performance than B&M. If you want a half-century of experience behind you and your vehicle’s shifter - buy B&M.
      
        

    Thanks!
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    mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Hurst does a similar one as well, just to give you a choice. Apart from the price I've not heard anything bad about either of them.
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    twylietwylie Member Posts: 619
    I talked to a couple of guys that have the B&M shifter and it's very nice, but the shorter throws are a result of the shifter being shorter, so the arc it travels in covers less distance than the standard shifter during shifts. Since the shaft is different there may be enough to remedy the shift issues you have, but if you buy it from Summit so if you can return it if it doesn't fix your problems. $175+ for a shifter seems steep to me since it's not a performance car. I think the leather boot sounds like the way to go.

    If it makes you feel any better, I too snapped the trim ring that holds the boot in place when I did my seat heaters...

    Keep us posted on the shift boot.

    I know that a couple of places make aftermarket brackets that move the leverage point for the transfer case from the tub to the xfer case housing. With big body lifts, this seems to be a trouble point sometimes.

    -twylie
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    jeep_boyjeep_boy Member Posts: 9
    You will have to tell us where you found the plans for building the hoist. I can't find it anywhere.
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    kelleyokelleyo Member Posts: 182
    Do you think a universal leather boot can be adapted to the Jeep shifter hole? It is a square hole and all of the boots I have seen are round. Think the "clip" would have to be attached to a boot to get it to stay?
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    mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    Yesterday it absolutely poured - I haven't seen it rain that hard up here in a long time. This morning I get up to a very wet Wrangler interior. The floorboards both sides had standing water, it was wet behind the seats, but the carpet under the seats was dry. The back carpet was wet close to the tail gate, but not near the seats (I don't have a back seat in). Now the back I can understand - I have trouble with the nuts on the tailgate latch rattling loose all the time, so the tailgate probably wasn't being held tightly against the window. But water both floorboards, and both front and back? The only thing I could come up with is that maybe the rubber seal around the doors has dried out to the point where it no longer seals well (though it wasn't hard and I didn't see any cracks). It hardly ever rains up here (the stuff that falls out of the sky around here is mostly frozen), and the normal humidity is very low. Anyone have any ideas?

    By the way, I can't complain about the weather any more. This afternoon it started to snow and we have close to an inch on the ground now. Huge wet snowflakes - absolutely lovely!
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    mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    At least the conditions are easy to replicate. Much harder to find a leak that only occurs when driving uphill at over 50mph in heavy rain!

    You just need a garden hose and a partner to trace this one. Can't really say who get the better job, the sprayer or the sprayee.

    :-)
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    dewarsdewars Member Posts: 58
    I have been considering a new shifter also. I drove a friends TJ that has the B&M unit in it and it was really nice. I think Hurst is also making one. I was wondering how they would work with a body lift, even though I'll only have a 1" body lift.
     Please let us know!

    dewars
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    bamatazzbamatazz Member Posts: 311
    We have had a hard rain most of the day today..
    and no leaks in tazz.
     I am still planning on getting it checked out as soon as I can.
     In the next few weeks. I hope I will get my amp installed.

    Keep Jeepin
    Bama
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    artistinokcartistinokc Member Posts: 4
    jeep_boy... i found the website for the hoist plans here...
    http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/hoist.html

    just a few notes i've discovered during the course of building mine...
    1) The 1/2" electrical conduit called for is okay, but it's a little too bendable, I'd go a bit bigger.
    2) The padded "s" hooks have to be very large for the newer jeep hard tops... at least 5"... take them outside and make sure you can slide them under the top before you buy them or you'll make a bunch of trips to the hardware store.
    3) Nylon rope is okay... just make sure it doesn't have alot of give and stretch.
    4) I thought I could get by without the marine winch and just pull the rope... very funny, I nearly took my fingers off.
    5) Before you install the pulleys, consider that you need the rear window up and out and allow room for this when the jeep is parked before you hoist.
    6) The directions don't specifically say, but when you secure the ropes to the frame then up to the pulley... make sure they are secure on the corners and will not run the length of the pipe when weight is put on them.

    These will make sense once you go to the site and read the directions!

    Hope this helps...
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    artistinokcartistinokc Member Posts: 4
    tsjay...

    Okay... I need more help with these silly doors on my 2003! I got the 13mm box wrench like you said and tried covering the nut, but no dice, just scratched the crap out of it and didn't budge it. Any other ideas? Did you have a heck of a time the first time taking them off??
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    bamatazzbamatazz Member Posts: 311
    Im not tsjay..but..
      Try using boxed end wrench. They are tough the first time becuase if the paint.
     I really dont think you can do it without scratching them. I do have a helpful hint. Lower windows when u take doors off..
      Hope this helps ya.

    BamaTazz
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    mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Box end wrench required, that's the one with a ring that surrounds the nut, rather than a slot. A 13mm fits a painted nut, but a 1/2" will fit more snugly if the paint is missing. You built the hardtop hoist, so this should be no problem for you.

    First, resign yourself to the fact that the paint on the nut will get scratched. If you were putting tape around it to protect it, you wouldn't be able to get the correct sized wrench on it anyway. Second, from Wal-Mart or an auto store get some 'PB Blaster' and don't accept a substitute. Third, apply a strip of duct tape behind each nut on the door/fender area. This is to protect the paint on the bodywork should your wrench slip, or if you let the door tilt a little too much as you lift it.

    Now, spray the hinge pins, hinges and the nut really thoroughly with 'PB Blaster'. Do it again in a couple of hours, then again before you go to bed! Do it again in the morning and get ready to remove the nuts after lunch.

    Ok, using the 13mm wrench turn it counter clockwise when viewed from beneath. If the wrench starts to slip, stop!. Scrape the paint off the nut with a sharp blade, and use the 1/2" wrench. Wearing gloves helps, as a small wrench will cut into your hand. If necessary, use a short piece of pipe slipped over the wrench as an extension. If you are turning in the correct direction, you will succeed.

    Finally, when the doors are off, remove the duct tape. Use the PB Blaster and a clean rag to clean off any reside from the duct tape.

    Simple!
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Is that the stuff in the can with the weird graphics on the label? Someone over in the Trooper discussion was recommending it the other day.

    Steve, Host
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    mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    image

    Is that what you were thinking of Steve?

    One of the few 'snake oil' products that actually works!

    The picture and information is posted for informational purposes. I've no connection other than as a satisfied customer.
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Never seen it before but I heard the label was something else.

    It is :-)

    Steve, Host
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    tjraytjray Member Posts: 38
    I recently upgraded my Wrangler's sound system with a Pioneer CD receiver and Infinity speakers and it sounded pretty good, except in the Bass department. So I decided to try a Bazooka Tube. I got the 8" size with a built in amp(on sale for cheap at the Circuit superstore)and wired it in last weekend. I had to buy an amp wiring kit, the Bazooka only came with a short pigtail and plug, and I mounted the unit behind the rear seat using the supplied mounting straps. It really pumps out those low notes, and it can be easily removed if I need to. Keep on Jeepin- Tjray
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    tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    The hinge nuts on my Jeep were not such a problem. I don't remember them being all that tough to get off.

    Not trying to be a smart alec, but, like Mac 24 asked, are you sure you are trying to turn them the right direction? You are looking at them from the top side, but the nuts are threaded from the bottom, so you turn the wrench clockwise to loosen the nuts. (Sorry if you already knew that) :)

    Good luck

    Tom
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