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Sounds like the extended warrenty will be a good bet. You never really know how it was treated before you bought it.
I went to around looking for a stereo and speakers today and had a question that keep coming up. All the places I went to aked me if I knew if the pods and the front were wired yet? Does anyone know if they come pre wired so all I have to do is add the speakers and CD unit? I don't know much about this stereo stuff, but I am being told if they have to wire it the installation cost will be higher.
Also I tried again to get my shift light to come up by giving it less gas. No luck though. Looking through the book it says I should shift to 2nd at 15MPH. If I wait to then my RPMs are already past 3,000. I thought around 2000 was a good time?
Thanks,
jutah
I would guess my normal shift point is about 2500 to 2700 RPMs. That's a guess, and I WILL try to remember to look next time.
Have you learned to take off from a dead stop on an incline without rolling back very much? That's one of the toughest things to learn, but it's not that hard.
One little trick you can use is to set the emergency brake, which allows you to get your right foot off the brake petal and use it for the gas petal when you start to pull away. So, with the emergency brake set, you can have the clutch in, the tranny if first gear, and your right foot on the gas. When you are ready to go, ease the clutch out and give the Jeep some gas, as if you were taking off normally. When you feel the Jeep just beginning to pull, let off the hand brake, and you are on your way!
You can do sort of the same thing without using the emergency brake, if you want to. While you are setting there with the clutch in, tranny in first, and the right foot on the brake, just begin to ease the clutch out and when it just begins to pull, switch your right foot to the gas.
What you DO NOT want to do is to hold the Jeep on an incline by letting the clutch out a little and letting it slip. That's a great way to burn out your clutch!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I am also working on learning to downshift better. At first if I started to break I would put it in N and then based on what speed I was going put it in what I needed to be in. I find myself thinking a little too much .
Thanks,
jutah
-twylie
Also, any ideas how much I'm looking at to replace my windshield (I cannot make a claim on insurance)?? Apparantly the drastic temperature changes were just to much, because I now have a lovely crack about 14" long!
Thanks! BTW...still working on bringing down Bank One.
I would guess it should run about $100 - $150, at least that's what it ran for my CJ and they do not look any more complicated on the TJ.
arh11
shill3 is right shop around I had my windshield replace three times the frist for 525 the last time for 325
I am considering a Teraflex "belly-up" skid pan. I can gain a few inches of clearance by doing this. Anybody have any experience with this?
Also Thanks to div 2 for the info on the cibie head lamps.
dewars
I elected to go the skid route for the time being. I installed a skid row engine skid and it has saved me from getting hung up on a few trips. It won't save me from a high center, but as long as I can keep a couple of tires in contact, it's been workable on the trails I've run. It's fun to see passengers faces when they hear the dragging across the rocks, thinking you have just trashed your vehicle.
Keep us posted if you go with the belly up; I'd love to get your thoughts and experience with it. It's on my long term wish list but I've got many things ahead of it for now! :-)
-twylie
So next week I'm doing the SYE, Belly up kit, 1" body lift, and new drive line. Then I'll put on my FourX Doctor rock sliders and it's off to Moab! I'll let you know how I like it.
dewars
jptj - Glad to see yours is still having fun at 130K. Just a guess, but I would think that if you were going to have problems, you would have had them already. I really do wonder just how much slip you have to have and under what conditions, to keep the 4x4 system from binding up. I have heard the churping tires a couple of times when my other half left it in 4 high once we got out of our driveway onto the plowed road and then did a hard turn to straighten out (he immediately put it back into 2WD when they churped). Has anyone here known someone who actually damaged their 4x4 this way?
I forgot about the body lift as the other requirement for a belly up. If you get a chance, take a tape to the xfer skid before and after and let us know exactly how much clearance you gain after all the changes.
-twylie
Went to the dealer today to find out the problem with the shift light. They found out that I had a bad power control module and they had to send away for the part. They didn't seem to think that it would affect anything else so I was able to take the Jeep home till they get the part in.
I also noticed if I am in first and start to drift down a hill the trans acts funny? Is this normal? I hope or I am starting to get worried.
As for the tunes, I got them installed at circuit city last weekend. They told me that I wasn't wired and killed me for a buck twenty for installation. I would up getting a two pairs of Polks for the front and the back. One pair was on special half price. I also got a Kenwood CD which had free installation. I would have got the Alpine, but they wanted me to shell out an other 55.
I'll let you all know how the power control mod turns out.
Seeya,
jutah
I did a similar setup in my 99 with an Alpine head unit.
Ultimately I decided to add a subwoofer as well but I did not want to give up the rear trunk area.
I ended up getting a Mopar sound deck. I found someone selling new ones cheap on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3012614388- - &category=18802
THese are about 400 bucks new at a dealer...
I installed it myself but took it to circuit city for wiring up.
To get it to work I had to put in a seperate amp with RCA to connect to the head unit and then we wired around the sound deck amp directly to the speaker.
It really has transformed the sound. If you decide to add a sub and want a nice factory look and still have a locking trunk area I recommend this. It will cost a bit more than a simple sub enclosure however.
JohnS
If it's not what hearing, try to better describe the noise and conditions and maybe we can help you determine if it's "normal" or not.
-twylie
I have a similar problem, my wife refuses to drive stick. If it was going to be a 3rd vehicle I'd tell her too bad!, but since it will be a 2nd car she will need to drive it sometimes.
shill3 - I even tried your suggestion and she didn't take it. Boy, she's more stubborn than I thought
Oh well, maybe I could get 2 wranglers. Yeah that's a good idea a his & hers.... oh well until I win the lottery I guess I'll have have to settle for an automatic. I'll just make sure I load it up....Hey, maybe I could sell her on a "Rubi", ok, ok, now I'm really dreaming.
Rich
Wishin' I could wave, but I know there's a Jeep in my future. BTW, my kids got me a RC Jeep for my B-Day. I think I gave them "Jeep Fever" ha ha
thanks!
I just got a 2003 Wrangler Sahara.. the world's most awesome vehicle and a HUGE change from the old 1979 CJ5 I had. I got the dual top package and I have two questions:
First, I've read posts about a winch/hoist for removing the hard top in your garage and everyone says they work great, but you never say where you got it nor can I find a link... HELP! I need one of these today! It's 80 degrees gorgeous and sunny and I cannot get the damned thing off by myself!
Second, call me stupid, but do these hard doors stay on forever? I mean when you took the tops off my old 79, the doors just lifted up off their hinges and went away. I don't see that here with the new one and the manuals say nothing about it.
Thanks in advance!
Your doors lift off easily when you remove the nuts from the hinge pins. Take care though, full steel doors are heavier than they look!
Some people put a rag over the nut to prevent the paint from chipping, but this didn't work for me. I still knocked the paint off the corners on the nuts.
When you are ready to come up with the doors, be sure to come up SLOWLY and STRAIGHT UP. Those exposed threads on the hinge pins will make some awful nasty scratches if you let them contact the Jeep. Be ready for a load: the doors are heavy, so don't let the load take you by surprise. Oh, be sure not to forget to disconnect the door straps first. (Wouldn't want that to hang and cause you to let the door hinge pins hit the Jeep.)
You'll need to pull the #4 fuse in the fuse panel behind the glove box to keep your interior light from staying on while the doors are off. Don't worry if the light takes a few seconds to go off after pulling the fuse. There's a delay circuit that will keep them on for a short time.
Check your owners manual for sure, but I think the fuse you want (# 4) is the bottom fuse in the right hand column.
Oh yeah, WELCOME to the board! Stick with us.
I think it's OK for me to mention Quadratec as long as I don't post a link to their site. They carry the hoist you are looking for. Also, they have some real nice door bags to store your doors in while they are off the Jeep. These bags are lined to protect from scratches.
I keep thinking of more stuff to tell ya. There are moulded plastic pieces on the corners of the tub near the door latches, and these should be removed when you take the hard top off. It doesn't hurt anything to leave them on there, except that they might fall off and get lost. These are only needed to help seat the hard top properly.
Good luck
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I did the google search and found directions to make my own hoist! Went and bought all the parts for about $60 last night and was up till 1am installing pulleys and ropes... now I just need to do a google search on knots... my little simple square ones aren't gonna hold for the long haul. (hey... not all girls are completely helpless! I even used some power tools!)
I knew those doors came off... I looked and looked at that silly nut on the hinge, but wondered about getting it off without scratches. I even went so far as searching the jack area and stuff for some special, secret tool they may have put in there!....
I love my Jeep... can't wait for the wind in my hair, today is another gorgeous day! Beautiful blue skies and a slight breeze, about 75... perfect! May even hook up those mountain bikes and head for the hills!
Tell me, has anyone purchased the add-a-trunk thing? I finally found a picture of it on the web and it looks pretty cool. I'm thinking it would be great when we go out mountain biking or climbing with the top off, then we could lock up things in the jeep without worries...
I also bought the big Tuffy security box that takes up most the room in the back. I didn't figure the smaller ones would handle what I wanted to store in them. I haven't got it installed yet since I just got it. But here's my take so far.
You'll have to remove the rear seat and its brackets. Also the seat belts from the floor which on mine requires a Torx tool. And the seat locking brackets on the side of the wheel wells. They advertise no drilling required on the YJ and TJ models but it's unclear to me if that's true since the instructions talk about drilling holes in the floor. It obviously ain't going to go in and out easily which is the point I suppose.
I intend to leave my vehicle unlocked with the soft top on and this will give me a place to store things and feel a little more at ease anyway. I assume the locks are stout although, not being a thief, that is just a layman's observation.
Welcome to the board..
I have the hoist-a-top myslef.
it makes getting that top off ALOT easier..
just one note.. make sure.. when lowering.. your doors must be open or off..
i forgot when i lowered it..i was off mark a little and scratched my doors..
i think I paid about 150.00 for mine..doesnt take long to install. Just make sure u intall it securely.
My local dealership, ships parts out everywhere & their prices are very good..
I would be gald to give you more info if ya want.
BamaTAzz
I've looked at a Sahara with the add a trunk. It wouldn't work for me - I rarely have the back seat in and I often carry my hiking buddy (a Golden Retriever) with me (reason for no seat). It would definitely be in the way for him. On the other hand, I don't have a garage or any place else to store my hard top, so mine has never been off.
If you are going doorless, check your state laws about mirrors. The mirrors are attached to the doors and some states (like California) are more fussy about having them than others. There was quite a bit of discussion on this board a while ago on this topic, and what various people have done.
Have fun being top down - I envy you your weather right now (and also anyone who has snow - wish we had some).
It appears that the rubber boot gets bunched up against the shifter stick when going into those gears. The problem is magnified since I have a 3 inch body lift and therefore the shifter angle is worse.
I have been told that one way to fix it is to move the console back a bit. I have also thought about getting a different boot (maybe leather) that is more flexible than the rubber accordian...
But lo and behold I think I have the answer. I just saw in my summit racing catalog that B&M has a short throw shifter for Wranglers. Assuming that the throws are shorter then I won't have the "bunching" problem with the boot.
Any one here have experience with these? Easy install?
Excerpt from www.b&m.com
What Is A B&M Short Throw Shifter?
A B&M Short Throw Shifter is a direct, bolt-on, self-contained unit. When you buy a B&M Short Throw Shifter, along with the complete shifter unit, you get explicit installation instructions. Installation usually takes about 30 minutes with nothing more than ordinary hand tools.
Why Should I Buy A B&M Short Throw Shifter?
A B&M Short Throw Shifter offers a dramatic improvement in shifting performance due in large part to reduced shifter travel, or ‘shift throw’.
Why Should ‘Shift Throw’ Matter To Me?
‘Shift throw’ refers directly to actual physical travel of the shifter stick - thus affecting the time it takes to shift from one gear to another (see illustration). In a performance situation, the additional seconds (or fractions of a second) a factory stock shifter takes to go from one gear to another can result in slower elapsed times - or just a sluggish feeling when driving around town. A B&M Short Throw Shifter eliminates that sluggish feeling in a daily driver, and gives the racer an extra edge.
Why Should I Buy A B&M Shifter?
B&M has been in the shifter technology business for almost 50 years. No one has as much time invested in the research, development and practical application of shifter/transmission performance than B&M. If you want a half-century of experience behind you and your vehicle’s shifter - buy B&M.
Thanks!
If it makes you feel any better, I too snapped the trim ring that holds the boot in place when I did my seat heaters...
Keep us posted on the shift boot.
I know that a couple of places make aftermarket brackets that move the leverage point for the transfer case from the tub to the xfer case housing. With big body lifts, this seems to be a trouble point sometimes.
-twylie
By the way, I can't complain about the weather any more. This afternoon it started to snow and we have close to an inch on the ground now. Huge wet snowflakes - absolutely lovely!
You just need a garden hose and a partner to trace this one. Can't really say who get the better job, the sprayer or the sprayee.
:-)
Please let us know!
dewars
and no leaks in tazz.
I am still planning on getting it checked out as soon as I can.
In the next few weeks. I hope I will get my amp installed.
Keep Jeepin
Bama
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/hoist.html
just a few notes i've discovered during the course of building mine...
1) The 1/2" electrical conduit called for is okay, but it's a little too bendable, I'd go a bit bigger.
2) The padded "s" hooks have to be very large for the newer jeep hard tops... at least 5"... take them outside and make sure you can slide them under the top before you buy them or you'll make a bunch of trips to the hardware store.
3) Nylon rope is okay... just make sure it doesn't have alot of give and stretch.
4) I thought I could get by without the marine winch and just pull the rope... very funny, I nearly took my fingers off.
5) Before you install the pulleys, consider that you need the rear window up and out and allow room for this when the jeep is parked before you hoist.
6) The directions don't specifically say, but when you secure the ropes to the frame then up to the pulley... make sure they are secure on the corners and will not run the length of the pipe when weight is put on them.
These will make sense once you go to the site and read the directions!
Hope this helps...
Okay... I need more help with these silly doors on my 2003! I got the 13mm box wrench like you said and tried covering the nut, but no dice, just scratched the crap out of it and didn't budge it. Any other ideas? Did you have a heck of a time the first time taking them off??
Try using boxed end wrench. They are tough the first time becuase if the paint.
I really dont think you can do it without scratching them. I do have a helpful hint. Lower windows when u take doors off..
Hope this helps ya.
BamaTazz
First, resign yourself to the fact that the paint on the nut will get scratched. If you were putting tape around it to protect it, you wouldn't be able to get the correct sized wrench on it anyway. Second, from Wal-Mart or an auto store get some 'PB Blaster' and don't accept a substitute. Third, apply a strip of duct tape behind each nut on the door/fender area. This is to protect the paint on the bodywork should your wrench slip, or if you let the door tilt a little too much as you lift it.
Now, spray the hinge pins, hinges and the nut really thoroughly with 'PB Blaster'. Do it again in a couple of hours, then again before you go to bed! Do it again in the morning and get ready to remove the nuts after lunch.
Ok, using the 13mm wrench turn it counter clockwise when viewed from beneath. If the wrench starts to slip, stop!. Scrape the paint off the nut with a sharp blade, and use the 1/2" wrench. Wearing gloves helps, as a small wrench will cut into your hand. If necessary, use a short piece of pipe slipped over the wrench as an extension. If you are turning in the correct direction, you will succeed.
Finally, when the doors are off, remove the duct tape. Use the PB Blaster and a clean rag to clean off any reside from the duct tape.
Simple!
Steve, Host
Is that what you were thinking of Steve?
One of the few 'snake oil' products that actually works!
The picture and information is posted for informational purposes. I've no connection other than as a satisfied customer.
It is :-)
Steve, Host
Not trying to be a smart alec, but, like Mac 24 asked, are you sure you are trying to turn them the right direction? You are looking at them from the top side, but the nuts are threaded from the bottom, so you turn the wrench clockwise to loosen the nuts. (Sorry if you already knew that)
Good luck
Tom