Thank you, everyone, for your replies about Jeep quality!
Now let's talk about what Jeeps are made for - off roading. Basically, I saw pictures where Jeeps (esp. Rubicon) go through some pretty nasty stuff. But what are the things Jeep Rubicon, the best factory Jeep there is, can't handle? A deep river, obviously. What else? Can it climb on top of mountains, provided they are not very steep? Does the altitude affect the performance? What obstacles have you encountered that your Jeeps just couldn't overcome? I really would like to know how far these things go. Thank you!
Ultimately, the answer is defined by the laws of physics. If there's no traction.....it won't go there. If it's too steep......it won't go there. If it's too deep.....it won't go there either.
Apart from that, two identical Rubicons will be totally different in their capabilities. The difference being the skill of the driver! In the hands of one man, a pencil and paper will provide only a grocery list. In the hands of another it will produce a work of art.
But, to answer some of your specific points:
(i) it will climb to the top of a 'not very steep' mountain with ease.
(ii) all vehicles are affected by changes in altitude.
(iii) I've never been able to climb trees or vertical surfaces in mine! However, add a winch and almost anything is possible (refer back to 'skill of the driver').
Thanks Tom for the recap on your minor troubles. I just washed mine a few days ago and noticed water pooling on the passenger floorboard. From what I could tell, it looks like the leak is the same as yours. I'll take it in and have it fixed.
Have you, or anyone else reading this, ever had problem with the engine pinging at high temperatures while at med-high RPM's and full throttle? This only happens when my temp gauge gets one needle width past the 210F mark and I get it up to 3500+ RPM's while full throttle.
The pinging isn't gas type or quality related, I've worked that out. It isn't a light ping that you might here in a car sometimes, it sounds pretty severe.
I'll take it to the dealer again, along with the leak too, but they can never duplicate the pinging problem. I don't really fault them for not finding it, because the engine has to be under heavy load - not just quick acceleration and at a higher temp. As I usually experience this when I'm breaking trail through bumper-high deep wet snow going up a steep hill.
I've thought about putting in a cooler thermostat if the dealer can't fix it. But many people warned against that saying the emission control equipment won't operate normally, it'll think it's in "warm-up" mode all the time. From my experimentation I've found that pinging is totally gone with the engine a little cooler. I think the OE thermostat is a about 190F, would a 175F be to cold?
Or, maybe my stock thermostat isn't quite doing it's job, I haven't tested it. My dash temp gauge stays right on 210F, and only varies under the circumstances I've described. What temp does yours run at?
The Rubicon is set up for rock crawling and more hardcore stuff. The major adds are 4:1 transfer case for a slower crawl, lockers front and rear, and decent off road tires from the factory. The Rubi offers other offroad advantages, but let's stick to these for this discussion.
I think the better question here may be "where will Wranglers go in stock (or near stock) form?". Ask anyone that has gotten into the sport of offroading with their Jeep and they will probably tell you that they were very surprised at what a stock Jeep can do. Minor mods and changes (disco the front sway bar) will probably get you through places you will shake your head at. I wheeled my Jeep in stock form (aside from some armor) for a year before putting on new tires. I have yet to install a lift, but one is in my near future. I am doing the lift to keep from dragging my undercarriage and give me a bit more flex. I'm NOT doing it to put on larger tires... yet. After almost two years of mild to moderate wheeling, I still feel that I am the weak link in the Jeep/driver/wheeling equation. I imagine it will continue to be that way for some time, although I'm only on 31" tires. Given that the Rubi is considerabley more capable with the addition of lockers, I'd say that a Rubi will go most places you're brave enough to take a $25k+ new vehicle. The Rubis have run in Moab out West and Tellico in the East in stock form.
You'll be able to do lots of cool stuff with ANY Wrangler, though. The Rubi just doens't require as strong of driver skills :-)
See if you can find a club or Jeepers in your area you can do a ride along with to get a sense for their capabilities.
I don't know yet, I still have to wait 6 weeks. My new jeep will be mostly for commuting. Even though I've never done any offroading (except in old Chevy Impalas), I would like to take it on some easy trails. Has anyone been to one of those Jeep organized family events? I've seen them in an ad and it looks quite simple - my guess not much of a challenge. I think my kids would get a kick out of it.
Anyone out there from NJ? I heard that Jeep runs one of these events in the pine barrens.
You're very welcome. That heater box seal problem was VERY common on the 01s, and maybe they hadn't really improved the situation on the 02s.
Don't have a clue about your pinging problem, but, since you have ruled out gas quality, it would have to be ignition timing, I THINK. Whatever tells the engine to retard the timing under the conditions you describe is not doing its job. Man, over my head here... come on Mac 24 and bail me out.
It's very hard to diagnose mystery noises over the internet. However, I will point out that the first you'll usually hear of a developing exhaust manifold leak, is when the engine is under both heavy acceleration and a heavy load, at which time it will also be at max engine temp.
Also, a lower temp stat will just make your warm-up slower. In the above scenario the stat will have been fully open, as would a lower temp stat. It's a common misconception that a lower temp stat will make your engine run cooler.
I would like to say that I'm really impressed with the level of knowledge and assistence that's given on this board. I'd like to thank all of you for the incredible amount of information you provide.
Well, I finally took my car to the dealer to look at why my AC is not blowing out cold air. They said that I have a leaking evaporator coil. In order for them to fix this coil, they need to take out my dashboard. Cost will be around $1000.00.
Over the past 8 months, I've spent about $4k on my 2000 Sport- Had problems with my cylinder heads, replaced some belt, etc. Isn't it funny how all these problems started 1 month after my warranty expired?
Though I really like my Jeep, I'm starting to get fed up with all these costs. Does the price on fixing the evaporator coil sound right? I've always gone to the dealer to get my problems fixed. Now I'm thinking of going to a garage that I know to see if they can fix the problem, but I'm concerned how difficult this job may be and perhaps just pay the one grand and have the dealer fix it. Any advice would be appreciated.
The evaporator is hidden in the back of the dashboard, so there's a fair amount of labor involved. However, there's little doubt that the dealer is the most expensive, in terms of both parts cost and hourly rate. The time given is about five hours, the retail price from the dealer for the evaporator core is about $300, plus the cost of freon. It would seem that the dealer has an hourly charge of at least $100.
In the same way that you'd get several estimates before having work done on your house, do the same for your Jeep. At least get an A/C specialist to give you a price.
I would definitely have an A/C specialist check it out. One of these days I'll take mine in to get checked out, so thanks, mac24, for giving me an idea of what to expect. I had problems with the closest dealer early on after I bought the Jeep, and I've always gone to other mechanics ever since.
I certainly haven't had your problems, though I've had a few of my own. And yes, all of mine have happened after the warranty ran out - but since I had bought a 100,000 mile warranty it didn't surprise me. I've actually had more problems with my 2000 Tacoma while it was under its extended warranty than the Jeep (and the Toyota dealership in Bakersfield has a much better service department than the Jeep dealers I've talked to). But it, too, is beyond its warranty so I'll have to cough up for anything more that goes wrong with it, and I'll most likely go to the same mechanics I've been using on the Jeep, rather than pay dealer prices.
Thank you for your replies, guys! So, how does the altitude affect performance? How high would a Rubi go before it dies due to lack of oxygen (or would the driver die first?).
For a fellow who wants to buy a Jeep for everyday commute, are you buying it for looks only? Cause I think Jeeps are made to play off-road, and the trade-off is noise, low gas mileage, and not very comfortable vehicle overall. It serves another purpose (ie off-roading). But for a daily commute?
Air is less dense at altitude therefore contains less oxygen. Oxygen is required to mix with fuel at a specific ratio. Air/fuel ratio is controlled by the PCM. Less air = less fuel = less power. Simple! You won't be able to take your vehicle so high that it won't work.
Most Wranglers spend most of their time on-road, probably commuting. Have you actually test driven a Rubicon? Unless you intend to spend a lot of time rock crawling, you may be better suited with one of the other Wrangler models.
BCMalibu- I wouldn't worry about performance dropping too much at high elevations. The engine will still run fine, you'll just have a little less power.
High altitude's performance hit shouldn't be noticeable out on the open road. Since the thinner air that robs some of your power also decreases the amount of aerodynamic drag you'll experience. You'll only really feel it during hard accelerations and hill climbs.
If you live at sea level and are really in tune with your Jeep's performance capabilities, then you should start to feel weaker acceleration at around 8000ft (2500M). If you get up to 12000ft (3600M) with your Jeep, it will feel a little sluggish on steep hill climbs. But, that's what low-range is for, and with the Rubi's 4:1 ratio - I'd bet you could hardly feel the reduced power. I guarantee if you get out of your Jeep at that altitude and start hiking around some hills - you'll feel the reduced performance in your body/lungs much more than you felt in the Jeep.
I haven't driven my Jeep up to Pikes Peak yet, but I did drive a Ford Exploder up there to 14,400ft (4400M) and it ran just fine, albeit guttless. Overall, don't worry about the altitude, the Jeep will do just fine.
I am still considering the 97 TJ. The owner has dropped the price about 3,000, so I'm really considering pulling the trigger on this. But the mechanical problems add up to this:
Exhaust bolt missing Valve covers are leaking Transmission link from the front differential pinion
The owner was quoted about 660.00 to fix all this. My question is: What are these repairs really costing? I think the valve covers would be easy to fix and inexpensive parts. I'm not sure the impacts of the other two. On the pinion, would I have to pull the driveshaft to the front diff to fix?
All of your input has been quite valuable. I only have until Monday (he's selling to a used car lot by then) to get this figured, so I want to have the best info possible to take to the wife.
I'm not a mechanic, but I'm not afraid of getting under the car and doing some work, but the transmissions issues kind of make me nervous, esp if it is the driveshaft I have to work with. Pulling off the 'pumpkin' on the diff is not a big deal to me though.
Thank you SO much for your input. It has been more help than y'all will know.
2: There's only one valve cover. No big deal to change the gasket.
3: Yes, you'll have to drop the front propshaft. No mystery to it, just remove four bolts. If you want to take it off completely, remove another four. The diff 'pumpkin' on a Jeep is integral with the axle, so you'll work on it in place.
Parts for all three repairs will be less than $25.
If the bolt missing is in the head, can it be replaced easily? Are there other things that may have caused it to break or go missing?
if it is broken, can I core out the bolt and extract it or am I in the really deep stuff?
When I drop the prop shaft, are there a lot of pieces I have to reassemble with? I've never worked on a tranny (except changing the fluid and filter in a Pontiac), so I'm just wanting to make sure I wouldn't get in over my head.
On the valve cover, would there be any benefit to replacing the whole cover along with the gasket? I was concerned that the valve covers were under the headers and that I'd be messing with the pistons. (See, I'm a non-mechanic, though I want to learn. )
Yes, if it's in the head it can usually be removed without taking the head off. Takes time and patience. Poor installation, vibration and age are common causes of loss.
The propshaft is tube that has a sealed joint at each end. Four bolts hold it to the flange on the axle.
The valve cover is just that..... a cover. It's on top of the engine and takes about two minutes to remove. Don't even think about renewing the cover, it's just not necessary.
Why not take a subscription to the Factory Service Manual at www.alldatadiy.com for $25, or buy one for $90. All will become clear. Don't bother with the 'DIY' versions like Chiltons etc. Don't bother with the 'DIY' versions like Chiltons etc. Yes, I did mean to type it twice!!!
Would you recommend one of those "DIY" manuals, like Chilton's for example?
erickpl:
I have the FSM for my year, 2001, and that puppy is a JEWEL! I would definitely take Mac's advice and invest in one of those for the 97 Wrangler! They lay out every single step for you, and even tell you which tool to use. They also have very good diagrams.
Well got my Rubi on the 15th went and picked it up that night. Rained like crazy, looked it over really good but discovered today there is a scratch directly behind the passengers door handle, did not notice it til the next morning. Made me sick to my stomach, I guess I will call the dealer tomorrow and see if what they will do to make it right. Wait all this time special order it and it has a scratch! Just made me sick, oh well hopefull they can make it right. Still glad to have it scratch or not.
Congratulations! What was the time from your order to delivery? Mine was 6 weeks and 6 days, but mine was on paint hold for the first 2 weeks because they were having difficulties with the khaki metallic. I am sure will will scratch your Jeep on your own once you get offroad, but I don't blame you for taking it back to get the scratch taken care of. Good luck and post some pics when you get a chance so we can all see it!!
Hey, they will take care of it, and, since the Jeep is brand new, the paint will match perfectly (no chance for any fading of the original paint yet). Just let them know that you will not accept anything less than a PERFECT job,
There is a body shop around here that I use, and those people are super. They are perfectionists, and I would trust them with any job. Hopefully, there is one like that in your area, and you can insist on them being allowed to do the work at DC's expense. Maybe the body shop at the dealer is excellent, but I would do some investigating, if I were you.
Since the dealer that I bought Thelma Jane from did not have a body shop of their own, I was allowed to take her anywhere I wanted to for the repainting of her hard top. DC had to approve the estimate first.
I don't know if it is only because my dealer didn't have their own body shop that I was allowed to take the work to a body shop of my choice, or if anyone has that option for warranty work. If you have reason not to trust the dealer's body shop, you could at least try to get them to agree to allowing an outside shop do the work.
This really sux, because NOTHING should take away from your joy at getting that brand new Jeep.
Welcome! Glad you joined us! We had a guy in here called 2001wrangler one time. Are you related?
Hey, Kev, you have been awful quiet lately! Can't you stay out of that new Jeep long enough to post and tell us all about it? Geez!
So, you got Edmunds to change your username, huh? Good move. You would have spent half your time explaining to people why your name was 2001wrangler when you had a 2003 Wrangler.
Is that true? Then someone can open the hood and steal the battery and other stuff, no? I am worried about these crazy tree-huggers who hate SUVs and do nasty things to them
Yes, that's true. There are after-market locks you can buy pretty cheap.
I wouldn't worry too much about those tree-hugging anti-SUV extremists - they tend to focus on the larger SUV's like H2, Excursion, Suburban, etc... I get more flak from driving my Honda Pilot SUV than I do my Jeep Wrangler, even though the Honda gets better gas mileage and has lower emissions than my Jeep, go figure!
If you have the time, join us on Edmund's Forum- "I Don't Like SUV's, why do you?" we need all the pro-SUVer's over there we can get.
I can't say I am either pro- or against SUVs. I believe people in free societies should be able to buy legally allowed products without being harassed or asked questions. That goes without saying. At the same time, I think we can agree that many people who buy SUVs don't really need them.
Now, it would not be a problem if these people bought, say, a lawn mower they did not need and just stored it in their garage. But SUVs are actually driven on roads shared by others, and that's where it gets tricky. I couldn't care less about Western dependence on arab oil, and I am not worried about the environment all that much, as by 2020 half of the new vehicles on the road would have zero emissions. My major concern is that SUVs are very big and make it hard, if not impossible, to see anything, if they are in front of you, or are parked on the street and blocking the view of traffic, when you need to cross that street in your car.
The bottom line, my feeling is that if you buy an SUV to actually use its capabilities, it's great. Go for it and enjoy your fine vehicle and all it has to offer. But if it's just "to look cool," or "because everyone else has one," or "because I feel safer in it," then, while fully supporting their right to purchase any vehicle they please, I won't be on the side of such SUV buyers.
I got mine in exactly 5 weeks to the day. I will post a pic soon.
I really hope they will fix it. They have a another Rubi in stock the same color I ordered I thought about asking them to switch doors with me so I don't have to do without mine since I just got it.
Although I guess I could just remove the door and leave it with them. I hate to leave it with them seeing as how I just got the thing. Oh well I will find out Monday I guess, I will give the salesman a call then.
The funny thing is I sent him a email the day I went to pick it up asking him if it had any scratches or dents since it was raining and I figured it would be hard to notice any scratches in the rain and he never replied to my email. I "guess" I will give them the benefit of doubt since everything else went really well and I did like that dealership.
2003 Silver, soft top, 5speed, Rubicon aside from the scratch I am perfectly happy with my purchase!
Conrats on all the new Wranglers. I really like that khaki color.
I saw a white Rubie up here a couple of weeks ago. Before I had a chance to park and get out he had left. It sure looked sharp, though, and not out of place with the various lifted jeeps (looked like a 4x4 club hitting the trails) that it was with.
Hello! So since the second grade, oh, twentyish years ago, I have wanted nothing but a jeep wrangler. And I finally found mine! YAY! A gently used, 2001 wrangler sport. So I have two immediate purchases to make: 1. I need to add a hitch that I can haul my sunfish & trailer with (14" sailboat, under 2000#), and 2. a hoist for my parent's garage, since they're going to let me store the hard top at their place in N. Wisconsin during the summer. Any advice or warnings? My understanding is that with the hoist, I can store the hard top hanging, so it's out of their way. Is that accurate? Thanks in advance for ANY advice...
You'll have no trouble towing the Sunfish with your new Sport. Either fit a chassis mounted receiver hitch, or install an aftermarket bumper with an integrated receiver.
You can buy a hardtop hoist, or with your experience of rigging, you can make one at minimal cost. Either use a trailer hand winch, some pulleys and line, or you can use four ratchet straps. One tip is to place duct tape on the garage floor to enable you to position your Jeep in the same place each time.
I too worry about my battery getting stolen, but not from tree huggers. I think that because of the Jeep's size, its assumed to be OK as an SUV (actually I tell folks that I don't own an SUV, I own a J E E P).
Once I move into a bigger city, I plan to get a hood lock and engine imobilizer. I want a hood lock that locks up front, but so far have only found some that lock on the outside clasp.
I got a Hidden Hitch for mine, installed it myself, works great! I like the curved tubular look of the Hidden Hitch. If you get the Mopar trailer light harness, it's as easy as unplugging a tail light harness and plugging in the trailer adapter to tee off the existing wiring.
I got some taillight covers from a friend. They're ok but I'm still going to get ones that over more protection by wrapping around the entire light assembly. Here's the link to the pics below.
Hi. Any opins on using a bottle of fuel injector cleaner? Just noticed it in the auto section aisle of the local Food/Pharmacy store. Didn't even know such an item existed. I guess you pour a bottle of the stuff into an empty gas tank, fill 'er up and the concoction works to clean the heads on the fuel injectors. My yj's running fine (knock on wood) but wondered if any body has had experience w/ fuel injector cleaner? Thanks for any comments...
Welcome, and congrats on getting that Jeep. That was a long wait for something you really wanted! My "Wrangler Fever" only lasted for months, not years, and it was tough.
There are cleaners that work, but they're generally only available through professionals. Too powerful to be run for any length of time, they're passed through the head end of the system for twenty minutes or so.
The stuff you can buy in the store is generally too weak to be of benefit. The only one I know of to have any positive effect is Techron.
Comments
Now let's talk about what Jeeps are made for - off roading. Basically, I saw pictures where Jeeps (esp. Rubicon) go through some pretty nasty stuff. But what are the things Jeep Rubicon, the best factory Jeep there is, can't handle? A deep river, obviously. What else? Can it climb on top of mountains, provided they are not very steep? Does the altitude affect the performance? What obstacles have you encountered that your Jeeps just couldn't overcome? I really would like to know how far these things go. Thank you!
Apart from that, two identical Rubicons will be totally different in their capabilities. The difference being the skill of the driver! In the hands of one man, a pencil and paper will provide only a grocery list. In the hands of another it will produce a work of art.
But, to answer some of your specific points:
(i) it will climb to the top of a 'not very steep' mountain with ease.
(ii) all vehicles are affected by changes in altitude.
(iii) I've never been able to climb trees or vertical surfaces in mine! However, add a winch and almost anything is possible (refer back to 'skill of the driver').
:-)
Have you, or anyone else reading this, ever had problem with the engine pinging at high temperatures while at med-high RPM's and full throttle? This only happens when my temp gauge gets one needle width past the 210F mark and I get it up to 3500+ RPM's while full throttle.
The pinging isn't gas type or quality related, I've worked that out. It isn't a light ping that you might here in a car sometimes, it sounds pretty severe.
I'll take it to the dealer again, along with the leak too, but they can never duplicate the pinging problem. I don't really fault them for not finding it, because the engine has to be under heavy load - not just quick acceleration and at a higher temp. As I usually experience this when I'm breaking trail through bumper-high deep wet snow going up a steep hill.
I've thought about putting in a cooler thermostat if the dealer can't fix it. But many people warned against that saying the emission control equipment won't operate normally, it'll think it's in "warm-up" mode all the time. From my experimentation I've found that pinging is totally gone with the engine a little cooler. I think the OE thermostat is a about 190F, would a 175F be to cold?
Or, maybe my stock thermostat isn't quite doing it's job, I haven't tested it. My dash temp gauge stays right on 210F, and only varies under the circumstances I've described. What temp does yours run at?
Again, thanks Tom for the info.
-Pete
I think the better question here may be "where will Wranglers go in stock (or near stock) form?". Ask anyone that has gotten into the sport of offroading with their Jeep and they will probably tell you that they were very surprised at what a stock Jeep can do. Minor mods and changes (disco the front sway bar) will probably get you through places you will shake your head at. I wheeled my Jeep in stock form (aside from some armor) for a year before putting on new tires. I have yet to install a lift, but one is in my near future. I am doing the lift to keep from dragging my undercarriage and give me a bit more flex. I'm NOT doing it to put on larger tires... yet. After almost two years of mild to moderate wheeling, I still feel that I am the weak link in the Jeep/driver/wheeling equation. I imagine it will continue to be that way for some time, although I'm only on 31" tires. Given that the Rubi is considerabley more capable with the addition of lockers, I'd say that a Rubi will go most places you're brave enough to take a $25k+ new vehicle. The Rubis have run in Moab out West and Tellico in the East in stock form.
You'll be able to do lots of cool stuff with ANY Wrangler, though. The Rubi just doens't require as strong of driver skills :-)
See if you can find a club or Jeepers in your area you can do a ride along with to get a sense for their capabilities.
-twylie
Anyone out there from NJ? I heard that Jeep runs one of these events in the pine barrens.
Don't have a clue about your pinging problem, but, since you have ruled out gas quality, it would have to be ignition timing, I THINK. Whatever tells the engine to retard the timing under the conditions you describe is not doing its job. Man, over my head here... come on Mac 24 and bail me out.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Also, a lower temp stat will just make your warm-up slower. In the above scenario the stat will have been fully open, as would a lower temp stat. It's a common misconception that a lower temp stat will make your engine run cooler.
-Pete
I would like to say that I'm really impressed with the level of knowledge and assistence that's given on this board. I'd like to thank all of you for the incredible amount of information you provide.
Well, I finally took my car to the dealer to look at why my AC is not blowing out cold air. They said that I have a leaking evaporator coil. In order for them to fix this coil, they need to take out my dashboard. Cost will be around $1000.00.
Over the past 8 months, I've spent about $4k on my 2000 Sport- Had problems with my cylinder heads, replaced some belt, etc. Isn't it funny how all these problems started 1 month after my warranty expired?
Though I really like my Jeep, I'm starting to get fed up with all these costs. Does the price on fixing the evaporator coil sound right? I've always gone to the dealer to get my problems fixed. Now I'm thinking of going to a garage that I know to see if they can fix the problem, but I'm concerned how difficult this job may be and perhaps just pay the one grand and have the dealer fix it. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
In the same way that you'd get several estimates before having work done on your house, do the same for your Jeep. At least get an A/C specialist to give you a price.
I certainly haven't had your problems, though I've had a few of my own. And yes, all of mine have happened after the warranty ran out - but since I had bought a 100,000 mile warranty it didn't surprise me. I've actually had more problems with my 2000 Tacoma while it was under its extended warranty than the Jeep (and the Toyota dealership in Bakersfield has a much better service department than the Jeep dealers I've talked to). But it, too, is beyond its warranty so I'll have to cough up for anything more that goes wrong with it, and I'll most likely go to the same mechanics I've been using on the Jeep, rather than pay dealer prices.
For a fellow who wants to buy a Jeep for everyday commute, are you buying it for looks only? Cause I think Jeeps are made to play off-road, and the trade-off is noise, low gas mileage, and not very comfortable vehicle overall. It serves another purpose (ie off-roading). But for a daily commute?
Most Wranglers spend most of their time on-road, probably commuting. Have you actually test driven a Rubicon? Unless you intend to spend a lot of time rock crawling, you may be better suited with one of the other Wrangler models.
High altitude's performance hit shouldn't be noticeable out on the open road. Since the thinner air that robs some of your power also decreases the amount of aerodynamic drag you'll experience. You'll only really feel it during hard accelerations and hill climbs.
If you live at sea level and are really in tune with your Jeep's performance capabilities, then you should start to feel weaker acceleration at around 8000ft (2500M). If you get up to 12000ft (3600M) with your Jeep, it will feel a little sluggish on steep hill climbs. But, that's what low-range is for, and with the Rubi's 4:1 ratio - I'd bet you could hardly feel the reduced power. I guarantee if you get out of your Jeep at that altitude and start hiking around some hills - you'll feel the reduced performance in your body/lungs much more than you felt in the Jeep.
I haven't driven my Jeep up to Pikes Peak yet, but I did drive a Ford Exploder up there to 14,400ft (4400M) and it ran just fine, albeit guttless. Overall, don't worry about the altitude, the Jeep will do just fine.
-Pete
Exhaust bolt missing
Valve covers are leaking
Transmission link from the front differential pinion
The owner was quoted about 660.00 to fix all this. My question is: What are these repairs really costing? I think the valve covers would be easy to fix and inexpensive parts. I'm not sure the impacts of the other two. On the pinion, would I have to pull the driveshaft to the front diff to fix?
All of your input has been quite valuable. I only have until Monday (he's selling to a used car lot by then) to get this figured, so I want to have the best info possible to take to the wife.
I'm not a mechanic, but I'm not afraid of getting under the car and doing some work, but the transmissions issues kind of make me nervous, esp if it is the driveshaft I have to work with. Pulling off the 'pumpkin' on the diff is not a big deal to me though.
Thank you SO much for your input. It has been more help than y'all will know.
-Paul
2: There's only one valve cover. No big deal to change the gasket.
3: Yes, you'll have to drop the front propshaft. No mystery to it, just remove four bolts. If you want to take it off completely, remove another four. The diff 'pumpkin' on a Jeep is integral with the axle, so you'll work on it in place.
Parts for all three repairs will be less than $25.
Thanks for the quick response!
If the bolt missing is in the head, can it be replaced easily? Are there other things that may have caused it to break or go missing?
if it is broken, can I core out the bolt and extract it or am I in the really deep stuff?
When I drop the prop shaft, are there a lot of pieces I have to reassemble with? I've never worked on a tranny (except changing the fluid and filter in a Pontiac), so I'm just wanting to make sure I wouldn't get in over my head.
On the valve cover, would there be any benefit to replacing the whole cover along with the gasket? I was concerned that the valve covers were under the headers and that I'd be messing with the pistons. (See, I'm a non-mechanic, though I want to learn.
-Paul
The propshaft is tube that has a sealed joint at each end. Four bolts hold it to the flange on the axle.
The valve cover is just that..... a cover. It's on top of the engine and takes about two minutes to remove. Don't even think about renewing the cover, it's just not necessary.
Why not take a subscription to the Factory Service Manual at www.alldatadiy.com for $25, or buy one for $90. All will become clear. Don't bother with the 'DIY' versions like Chiltons etc. Don't bother with the 'DIY' versions like Chiltons etc. Yes, I did mean to type it twice!!!
:-)
erickpl:
I have the FSM for my year, 2001, and that puppy is a JEWEL! I would definitely take Mac's advice and invest in one of those for the 97 Wrangler! They lay out every single step for you, and even tell you which tool to use. They also have very good diagrams.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Here is a pic of mine...
http://itsajeep.org/PhotoPost/data/500/93Jeep1.jpg
Sorry, man, about the scratch.
Hey, they will take care of it, and, since the Jeep is brand new, the paint will match perfectly (no chance for any fading of the original paint yet). Just let them know that you will not accept anything less than a PERFECT job,
There is a body shop around here that I use, and those people are super. They are perfectionists, and I would trust them with any job. Hopefully, there is one like that in your area, and you can insist on them being allowed to do the work at DC's expense. Maybe the body shop at the dealer is excellent, but I would do some investigating, if I were you.
Since the dealer that I bought Thelma Jane from did not have a body shop of their own, I was allowed to take her anywhere I wanted to for the repainting of her hard top. DC had to approve the estimate first.
I don't know if it is only because my dealer didn't have their own body shop that I was allowed to take the work to a body shop of my choice, or if anyone has that option for warranty work. If you have reason not to trust the dealer's body shop, you could at least try to get them to agree to allowing an outside shop do the work.
This really sux, because NOTHING should take away from your joy at getting that brand new Jeep.
Keep us posted.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Hey, Kev, you have been awful quiet lately! Can't you stay out of that new Jeep long enough to post and tell us all about it? Geez!
So, you got Edmunds to change your username, huh? Good move. You would have spent half your time explaining to people why your name was 2001wrangler when you had a 2003 Wrangler.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
That's a nice looking Jeep
I wouldn't worry too much about those tree-hugging anti-SUV extremists - they tend to focus on the larger SUV's like H2, Excursion, Suburban, etc... I get more flak from driving my Honda Pilot SUV than I do my Jeep Wrangler, even though the Honda gets better gas mileage and has lower emissions than my Jeep, go figure!
If you have the time, join us on Edmund's Forum- "I Don't Like SUV's, why do you?" we need all the pro-SUVer's over there we can get.
-Pete
Now, it would not be a problem if these people bought, say, a lawn mower they did not need and just stored it in their garage. But SUVs are actually driven on roads shared by others, and that's where it gets tricky. I couldn't care less about Western dependence on arab oil, and I am not worried about the environment all that much, as by 2020 half of the new vehicles on the road would have zero emissions. My major concern is that SUVs are very big and make it hard, if not impossible, to see anything, if they are in front of you, or are parked on the street and blocking the view of traffic, when you need to cross that street in your car.
The bottom line, my feeling is that if you buy an SUV to actually use its capabilities, it's great. Go for it and enjoy your fine vehicle and all it has to offer. But if it's just "to look cool," or "because everyone else has one," or "because I feel safer in it," then, while fully supporting their right to purchase any vehicle they please, I won't be on the side of such SUV buyers.
Thanks for the comments 01r1 and BCMalibu!
I really hope they will fix it. They have a another Rubi in stock the same color I ordered I thought about asking them to switch doors with me so I don't have to do without mine since I just got it.
Although I guess I could just remove the door and leave it with them. I hate to leave it with them seeing as how I just got the thing. Oh well I will find out Monday I guess, I will give the salesman a call then.
The funny thing is I sent him a email the day I went to pick it up asking him if it had any scratches or dents since it was raining and I figured it would be hard to notice any scratches in the rain and he never replied to my email. I "guess" I will give them the benefit of doubt since everything else went really well and I did like that dealership.
2003 Silver, soft top, 5speed, Rubicon aside from the scratch I am perfectly happy with my purchase!
I'll keep you posted.
Thanks
I saw a white Rubie up here a couple of weeks ago. Before I had a chance to park and get out he had left. It sure looked sharp, though, and not out of place with the various lifted jeeps (looked like a 4x4 club hitting the trails) that it was with.
You can buy a hardtop hoist, or with your experience of rigging, you can make one at minimal cost. Either use a trailer hand winch, some pulleys and line, or you can use four ratchet straps. One tip is to place duct tape on the garage floor to enable you to position your Jeep in the same place each time.
Once I move into a bigger city, I plan to get a hood lock and engine imobilizer. I want a hood lock that locks up front, but so far have only found some that lock on the outside clasp.
-Pete
barresa62 "Jeep Owners: Photo Gallery" May 19, 2003 2:59pm
Stephen
My yj's running fine (knock on wood) but wondered if any body has had experience w/ fuel injector cleaner?
Thanks for any comments...
Here is a link to some complete wrap around covers in black or stainless...
http://www.truckstuffusa.com/reareurbyste.html
Good luck with your Jeep!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
The stuff you can buy in the store is generally too weak to be of benefit. The only one I know of to have any positive effect is Techron.