I doubt that the bigger/wider tires will make much difference in the wind, but you'll just have to be the judge of that after you get them on there.
You are raising the Jeep two inches further off the ground, so you will actually lose some stability from that standpoint. I don't think that will be very noticeable, though.
Jeff, if you are not satisfied with the two inch suspension lift, then you can always add a one inch body lift. Someone mentioned that in an earlier post. A body lift does not in any way change your driveline angles, so it's a free inch of tire clearance with respect to driveline angles.
Jeff, a doggone two inch spacer lift and new shocks would be SO easy to put on yourself! I wish we were neighbors, and I would help ya install the lift. You ain't gonna have to mess with trac bar relocation or t-case lowering. Just four springs taken out, spacers put in, springs put back and four new shocks. EASY!
I know, you may not have the place to do the work in this cold weather, and you may not have the jack and the tools. If you just had some Jeep buds with a little know how...
Good luck, Dude. Ask any more questions you want to.
I do know one person that may be able to help out. I just sent him an e-mail to see if he's willing to help raise the Jeep. I know he's done plenty of lowering vehicles, but I have to see if he's able to help me with the lift.
Thanks again for the information and I may stop back from time to time to ask a few questions.
Hey Tom, I don't think Amy is quite as bad as the new Impala but she's got a nice ice coating on her this morning. Gonna try and get a pic or two before I take her out. It's rather impressive.
Tell me more about the 2" spacer lift. Does it require new hardware (shocks and/or springs)?
I ordered the JKS quick discos for the TJ (should be here this weekend) and they can be adjusted for a 2" lift with no problem. If the spacers are no big deal, I'd be tempted to sneak them on too. What kinds of tools do you need?
A 2" spacer lift is just what it says. All you have to do is take out the springs install the spacers above them and reinstall the original springs. You will need longer shocks though to match the added height.
I've never done one so I don't know the tools needed, but if you search the web for "TJ mods" you can find several write-ups on them. Can be done with basic hand tools.
No specialty tools required, just your ordinary tools that almost anyone would have.
Go for it!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Oh, a little tip... disconnect the front sway bar (if you have installed one already), and let the axle droop. The springs will almost fall out by themselves then. Remove the shocks, or at least disconnect them on one end so that you can get the full droop of the axle. You need to change shocks to longer ones anyway.
The back springs are easy too, if you let the axle droop as far as it will. I'm not saying you have to disco the back sway bar for this job, just saying to be sure and let the axle droop as far as it will.
P.P.S.
A spring and shock lift is just as easy to install as a spacer lift. You are replacing the shocks either way, and you are taking your springs out to install the spacers, so it would be just as easy to install new springs instead of putting the old ones back in. Not saying you shouldn't go with the spacer lift, just saying that it is just as easy either way you go. It is cheaper to go spacer lift.
I've noticed lately, since it's been in the single digit temp range, that shifting into 2nd is stiff. I usually try to let her warm up for about 3-5 minutes before going anywhere. Reverse, 1st, all the others are fine. It's just when going from 1st to 2nd that I can "feel" the gears engage. It takes a little more force then normal but not much, and like I said I can feel it lock in. Now from 2nd to 3rd and everything else is fine and normal.
If I drive for a little while then everything seems to be fine with the shift into second. Am I right in guessing that it's just the fluids being cold?
Guess it's time I get some jack stands and a floor jack. Darn. hehehe
My sway bar discos adjust to 2.5" lift, but I would disconnect them while doing this. I have never priced shocks and springs, so I have NO idea what brands would be good to use. Any suggestions?
Also, would the 30" tires still be okay with a 2" lift or would I really want to go bigger? Any stability or appearance problems keeping the 30's?
I am happy with my Procomp 2" spring and shock lift. I got it used from a guy who got it used, so Thelma Jane is at least the third Jeep that lift has been on.
Procomp got a bad name for their leaf spring type lift kit for the YJs due to a very stiff ride. I don't think anyone complains about Procomp lifts for TJs, however.
There are several brands of lifts out there, and my only experience is with Procomp. I would not try to steer you to any particular brand.
If you only want tire clearance and want to get your lift as cheaply as possible, then go with the spacer type lift.
If you want better articulation for off roading, and if you are willing to spend the extra money, then go with the spring and shock type lift.
If you want a smaller lift for now, but someday want a four inch lift or more, then consider the spacer lift. It is cheap enough that you won't worry about replacing it with a bigger lift later.
I don't think there would be any problem staying with your 30" tires after getting a two inch lift. They would look fine, and there should be no reason handling-wise or anything not to leave them on there. You'll just have room for some 31's, or maybe even 32's next time you need tires.
More likely transmission design and tolerances. There isn't much by way of a linkage. The forks on the rails are more or less directly engaged by the shift lever.
The fact that it improves with an increase in temperature indicates that it's related to the lubricant.
Andrew: Glad to know it's not just me. I'm sure you'll experience it more then me since I only get weather this cold for 3 months a year at the most. She's perfect in 20+ degree(F) weather.
Paul: as for brands, a lot of people around here are big time Skyjacker people. But I've also heard a lot of good things about Rubicon Express. You might also want to check out the Old Man EMU lift, it's a spring and shock lift that's only 2" but supposed to be very good.
Well Tom had a nice shot of his ice storm so I thought I would let you all know how Amy looked about 3 hours ago. I didn't get to get her out and about today, had too much to do in the house. She now has about an inch of snow covering all the ice. Tomorrow she gets taken out even if I have no reason.
It's kind of hard to see out of her rear window right now, well any window for that matter.
The OME lift is DEFINITELY a fine lift. I have never heard even one complaint about it.
The thing is, it actually gives most people about three inches of lift, and it is, therefore, necessary to relocate the rear trac bar to keep the rear axle centered. Also, it more than likely will require the droppig of the T-case to fix driveline angles. Now, neither of those things are HUGE items, but just be aware that they will most likely need to be done. I have heard that the trac bar relocation can be a pain.
I have seen many posts in other message boards where people have said that the ride of their Jeeps is better with the OME lift than it was when it was stock.
I have an OME lift on my Jeep and can't speak too highly of it. I achieved an increase of 3" at the rear and 2 1/2" at the front. I have a winch at the front and Olympic bumpers at each end.
A better alternative to a transfer case drop is a motor mount lift. This has the advantage of retaining the full ground clearance achieved by the lift.
OME do not supply a kit as such, they supply their dealers with individual components, who then offer them as kits. I used HD springs and shocks plus a rear trackbar bracket. Ride and handling are superior to stock.
Glen: There's nothing to it. It's only cold when you go to get in and it's 5 degrees outside. The heater in TJ's is an incredible unit. I'm comfortable (hat and gloveless) in maybe 10 minutes. Now as I said in a few other posts the fluids are a whole different story. That and I have no where to put a hard top if I had one so I would have to have it on all the time. That just doesn't sound like fun to me.
Mac: Good info to know. It's always a good thing to get opinions from people that have the parts that you are looking at.
We don't have the cold weather you do, but I installed seat heaters in our Jeep about a year and a half ago and they have been one of the best things I've done to make the Jeep more pleasant for day to day use. We have half doors and in the summer generally run without a top. We found that the heaters are great for when the temps drop down 65 or so with the top off. In the winter they are great and heat up in about 2 min.
As far as lifts go, I'm in the middle of installing the same OME shocks and springs that Mac has on his Jeep. The shocks alone are great and I'll be glad to answer any questions once the rest of the install is complete. I elected to go with an adjustable rear trackbar instead of the bracket that is available to reuse the factory trackbar. The OME looks expensive relative to other lifts of the same size, but the quality of components and ride are second to none. I rode in a quite a few lifted Jeeps and saw how they performed on trails in my area before deciding on the OME stuff. Short of a long arm lift at $2k+, it is one of the best riding suspensions you can put in a Jeep IMO.
I've found that my mileage can swing wildly from tank to tank. Even in similar driving conditions, it can vary 2 or 3 MPG. The only thing that makes sense to me is that the different filling stations pumps may shut off at different levels. At some, when the nozzle shuts off, it's really full. At others, I'm a gallon or a gallon and a half shy of full. I tracked my mileage religiously for the first 8000 miles or so and now spot check it across a couple of tanks every few months. I get a pretty consistant 15.5-16 mpg, with slower around town tanks near 17.
The only time I can account for big swings in milage is on an E-W interstate. If I'm heading West and have a headwind, my mileage can drop 4mpg from the same stretch going East with a tailwind.
One of the guys tsjay and I chatted with the other night said he was getting sub 10 mpg numbers; left me feeling much better about my mileage!
There's really only one good way to check gas mileage, and that is over several tanks.
As mentioned, you don't always get the tank filled to exactly the same level each time, and this can have a big effect on the number you get for MPG.
Driving conditions change from tank to tank, and this will effect the MPG.
So, check several consecutive tanks, and take the average of all of those tanks full to get an idea of what you are really getting for MPG.
Thelma Jane's mileage has gone down as I have added weight from the winch and the armor. Also, those 31 x 10.50 BFG Muds have taken their toll on the gas mileage. (I know you have to correct your indicated miles for tire diameter, but in my case, the indicated miles are actually truer with the 31's than they were with the factory 30's.)
Glen - Besides all of the possibilities of just general inconsistencies, remember that when you go up the Grapevine, you also get to go down. And it seems to me that I make up more mileage on the downhill part than I use extra going uphill (I get around 20 mpg pretty consistently on my commute). And from Modesto to Bakersfield is pretty flat. And you were traveling faster going back. Was it windy on Monday - I don't remember (that always has a HUGE bearing on my mileage). And one of the trips where I got my best mileage was one time when I was driving through Sequoia National Park and never got much above 45 mph. The time we went to Canada with all our stuff didn't make all that much difference in our gas mileage, so I think wind and speed affect gas mileage more than load (OK, that's just my perception - I didn't say it was logical).
Tony - Love those photos! I would agree with Glen - I'd want a hard top. How do you clean your back window (or do you just ignore it and clean only the windshield)? I have the hard top and no place to store it, so it just stays on. It is still a really fun vehicle, even with the hard top on all the time. Just wish we'd get some white stuff - we had rain last night (warmer storm) and no other cold storm in sight. I have hopes that we'll see something white around President's Weekend - we usually do.
Twylie: A while back I read your write up on the seat warmers install. I might have to look into that once I get a little money in the bank, but right now I'm happy with how fast she warms up.
Mtngal: Like Tom said I have a hard top till the ice melts (later today when we go for a ride). You guessed it though, I don't clear off the back windows. Since I have the full doors I clear them and the windshield and let the heat as I drive clear the rest. I want to get a set of half doors for the summer, but plan on keeping the fulls for winter and the cold.
Do you have a scanner? Since you are using film you need to have a way to get them into your computer. If you don't, you can get a CD made by many places that develop film.
Once you have the pictures in your computer, you can easily upload them to any of the free sites that host pictures. Some allow you to link to any site (like this one) and some do not (imagestation does not, but I still like it. I've also started to use webshots and really like it also).
Tom can tell you how to upload to Gill's site - he hosts Jeep photos (that's where Tom puts lots of his photos). I haven't used it yet, so I'm not sure how it works.
Just get those pics converted to electronic files in the .jpg format, and keep them under 500 KB in size. We will then help ya get em hosted and posted. (I'm a poet and don't know it.)
If you haven't sent them off yet, let me recommend a really nice film developing service... photoworks.com in Seattle. They scan all of your pics and store them on their website for ya. If you pay an extra $5.00. they will even send you a CD will high resolution scans of your pics on it. I was very pleased with their quality, price, and service when I was using my 35 MM camera before getting my digi.
For the fun of it, I requested a brochure for the 2004 Jeeps from jeep.com a few days back. I was hoping there would be some information about the Unlimited in it. (Not in the market for one, but thought it would be nice to have on hand.) What caught my eye is a "coupon" for a $50 gift certificate for test driving a Wrangler before March 4. You basically have a dealer sign off on it, send it in, and then get a gift certificate to one of several places. (Not sure on the details.) I thought it was interesting. I don't know if I will test drive one or not, unless I see a Rubi in the lot. I don't want to give 'ole Blue any ideas about leaving her! The other interesting thing was that I caught several typos, in the first casual read. On the graph that shows payloads and tow capabilities, it is labeled at the bottom that it is for the Liberty. I thought that was odd, as the brochure is a Wrangler only. They must have copied it from the Liberty brochure without double checking! Gave me something to chuckle about.
Might help a little if ya told us what rims you have now.
And, it's not the tire diameter that matters as far as the rim is concerned, but the tire width. You didn't say what width you were going to get.
We need to know the type of wheel, the backspacing of that wheel, and the width of the tires you are thinking about, Billy, in order to give you the proper advice. If you don't know the backspacing, just tell us the type of wheel, and maybe we will know what the backspacing is.
I am thinking of replacing the stock spare tire carrier. I am concerned about the hinges back there, I imagine that they take a beating due to the weight of the spare - particularly during wheeling sessions. Should I be concerned?
I was thinking of somekind of swing-away carrier that might also be used one day to carry a larger tire... If this is a legitimate concern, does anyone have any suggestions for a well made product? Also, what would be a good way to mount a hi-lift jack (and where)? I'm thinking of going to the Jeep Jamboree this coming August... and these may well Buffy's first mods!
I think Durango4x4 had something like that, anyone know what their quality and service is like?
OK, I found a post of yours (#10563) where you were sort of asking that question, and in that post you said you had 30" GSA's.
I am going to make an assumption here, and you can tell me if this is not true. I am going to say you have the factory tires that would normally come with the 30" tire package, and those wheels would be eithr Grizzlies or Canyons. Can't remember what year Jeep you have, Billy.
With either of the wheels I just named, you can run 31 x 10.50 tires. The Grizzlies are 15 x 7 with 5" backspacing, and the Canyons are 15 x 8 with 5.5" backspacing.
Scroll up the page to where I posted that diagram for an explanation of backspacing . That was just a couple days ago, I think, so it shouldn't be hard to find.
You might find it necessary to put some washers behind your steering stops to prevent rubbing the insides of your front tires on the control arms. Some people have to and some people don't. It's a real close thing.
Here's the way I have my hi lift mounted, and it is pretty slick! This keeps it out of the weather (when the top is on) and it is out of the way.
Those are two inch conduit clamps that are attached to the roll bars. They fit perfectly, as if they had been made for that very purpose. I took 1 1/4" x 5/16 bolts and used two nuts on each bolt, one to serve as a jam nut, and made those bolts act as studs to mount the hi lift on. My buddy at work came up with this idea.
I had to drill a 5/8" hole near the tip of that end piece on the hi lift in order to be able to run the stud bolt through there.
Oh, I have the same concerns as you do about the weight of the spare taking a toll on the hinges of the tail gate, but I haven't done anything about it yet.
Tom: Damn, that is pretty slick! Never even thought of putting it inside... How is the padding on the bar surviving it? The padding seems pretty sturdy, but that's quit a bit of weight digging into it (I am guessing you have the 48" jack, and even that's no light-weight).
Mac: I was more worried about the weight damaging the hinges of the tailgate... But I am guessing that, hopefully, the DC engineers took that into consideration... Have no fears about deterring me from buying toys for Buffy - I have a rather long list of things needed, this was more of a consideration for her well being...
I believe Hi-lift has a jack mount for under the hood on a TJ. I'm working on a wish list myself. By Spring, I hope to have 33's,a 3 or 4" lift,and front and rear bumpers with tire carrier. And a cat-back exhaust system. Yes, that ought to do it! Tjray
Yes, I have heard of those mounts for under the hood for hi lifts. I don't see how you could do any better than mounting one like I mounted mine, though. It's out of the way, but accessible, and it is inside and out of the mud and weather. The pins in the jacking mechanism must be kept clean for the jack to work right.
I'm new to this board, but have been reading it for quite a while. Pick up some good tips. I drive a 2002 shale green TJ with tan tops. Have been doing minor mods for offroading but this is my daily driver so I can't get to crazy. I picked up a set of 16" Liberty rims and mounted LT235/85r16 firestone destination M/T's. I wanted tall narrow M/T's. Tall for more clearance, narrow for Wisconsin snow and good highway mileage and they look really cool on my TJ.
Mac; These 32" tires won't clear the bumper on the stock tail gate spare carrier. I was going to modify the carrier by welding a plate to the mount side and drilling new holes to raise it, but if someone makes an adapter, like you mentioned, that would be a much better solution.
The adapter I was talking about is made by Tomken and available from Quadratec (among others) for about $40. Using the adapter the wheel is lifted up and out so that a 33" tire will just brush the bumper as the tailgate is closed.
The adapter would be very easy to reproduce if you are at all handy, and you could make it to suit your exact wheel/tire combo.
Tom: I really like the way that you mounted your Hi-Lift, might do that with mine when I get one. My only question is how does the foot fit in there? Or can you take the foot off of the Hi-Lift? I know it's not huge but I still didn't think that it would fit there.
Andrew: I thought about the weight of the spare too, kinda like everyone else. The stock 31's on the Rubi have some weight to them but I'm hoping DC put enough thought into it. I'm not going to worry till the 2" lift and 33's get on Amy in a couple of years.
Thanks, looks like the perfect solution for the money. I was planning on eliminating the third brake light. I don't see any swing out bumper mounted tire carriers with that light. Wonder if it is required by law?
Right there with ya. Probably going to be 3-5 years before I go with a lift and bigger tires (although I am thinking of 35's along with regearing, etc)... otherwise I'd never fit into the parkade! It'll be quite the wishlist by that point!
I'm still alive and well up here in the Pine Tree State. It is still frigid up here and no snow. Without snow, winter is pointless. Let's move onto mud season!
I have about 30k on my 01 Sport- 11k since late October when I picked her up.
I am debating if I should just buy 31" BFGs or should go ahead and spend the extra bucks to put on 33s and a 3" lift.
I figure by the time I put on another 6k I'll be out of factory warranty and my standard issue 30" Goodyears will ready for replacement.
My biggest pain in the cold is the shifter boot getting so stiff it doesn't like the shifter to go into 5th.
Those seat heaters seem like a very good idea. Has anyone seen any kind of kit for floor insulation or hard top insulation?
Comments
You are raising the Jeep two inches further off the ground, so you will actually lose some stability from that standpoint. I don't think that will be very noticeable, though.
Jeff, if you are not satisfied with the two inch suspension lift, then you can always add a one inch body lift. Someone mentioned that in an earlier post. A body lift does not in any way change your driveline angles, so it's a free inch of tire clearance with respect to driveline angles.
Jeff, a doggone two inch spacer lift and new shocks would be SO easy to put on yourself! I wish we were neighbors, and I would help ya install the lift. You ain't gonna have to mess with trac bar relocation or t-case lowering. Just four springs taken out, spacers put in, springs put back and four new shocks. EASY!
I know, you may not have the place to do the work in this cold weather, and you may not have the jack and the tools. If you just had some Jeep buds with a little know how...
Good luck, Dude. Ask any more questions you want to.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I do know one person that may be able to help out. I just sent him an e-mail to see if he's willing to help raise the Jeep. I know he's done plenty of lowering vehicles, but I have to see if he's able to help me with the lift.
Thanks again for the information and I may stop back from time to time to ask a few questions.
Jeff
Tony
Tell me more about the 2" spacer lift. Does it require new hardware (shocks and/or springs)?
I ordered the JKS quick discos for the TJ (should be here this weekend) and they can be adjusted for a 2" lift with no problem. If the spacers are no big deal, I'd be tempted to sneak them on too.
Autozone has a free loan-a-tool program.
-Paul
I've never done one so I don't know the tools needed, but if you search the web for "TJ mods" you can find several write-ups on them. Can be done with basic hand tools.
Tony
No specialty tools required, just your ordinary tools that almost anyone would have.
Go for it!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Oh, a little tip... disconnect the front sway bar (if you have installed one already), and let the axle droop. The springs will almost fall out by themselves then. Remove the shocks, or at least disconnect them on one end so that you can get the full droop of the axle. You need to change shocks to longer ones anyway.
The back springs are easy too, if you let the axle droop as far as it will. I'm not saying you have to disco the back sway bar for this job, just saying to be sure and let the axle droop as far as it will.
P.P.S.
A spring and shock lift is just as easy to install as a spacer lift. You are replacing the shocks either way, and you are taking your springs out to install the spacers, so it would be just as easy to install new springs instead of putting the old ones back in. Not saying you shouldn't go with the spacer lift, just saying that it is just as easy either way you go. It is cheaper to go spacer lift.
I've noticed lately, since it's been in the single digit temp range, that shifting into 2nd is stiff. I usually try to let her warm up for about 3-5 minutes before going anywhere. Reverse, 1st, all the others are fine. It's just when going from 1st to 2nd that I can "feel" the gears engage. It takes a little more force then normal but not much, and like I said I can feel it lock in. Now from 2nd to 3rd and everything else is fine and normal.
If I drive for a little while then everything seems to be fine with the shift into second. Am I right in guessing that it's just the fluids being cold?
Thanks,
Tony
Guess it's time I get some jack stands and a floor jack.
My sway bar discos adjust to 2.5" lift, but I would disconnect them while doing this. I have never priced shocks and springs, so I have NO idea what brands would be good to use. Any suggestions?
Also, would the 30" tires still be okay with a 2" lift or would I really want to go bigger? Any stability or appearance problems keeping the 30's?
-Paul
Tony
Procomp got a bad name for their leaf spring type lift kit for the YJs due to a very stiff ride. I don't think anyone complains about Procomp lifts for TJs, however.
There are several brands of lifts out there, and my only experience is with Procomp. I would not try to steer you to any particular brand.
If you only want tire clearance and want to get your lift as cheaply as possible, then go with the spacer type lift.
If you want better articulation for off roading, and if you are willing to spend the extra money, then go with the spring and shock type lift.
If you want a smaller lift for now, but someday want a four inch lift or more, then consider the spacer lift. It is cheap enough that you won't worry about replacing it with a bigger lift later.
I don't think there would be any problem staying with your 30" tires after getting a two inch lift. They would look fine, and there should be no reason handling-wise or anything not to leave them on there. You'll just have room for some 31's, or maybe even 32's next time you need tires.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Andrew
The fact that it improves with an increase in temperature indicates that it's related to the lubricant.
-Paul
Paul: as for brands, a lot of people around here are big time Skyjacker people. But I've also heard a lot of good things about Rubicon Express. You might also want to check out the Old Man EMU lift, it's a spring and shock lift that's only 2" but supposed to be very good.
Tony
It's kind of hard to see out of her rear window right now, well any window for that matter.
Tony
The thing is, it actually gives most people about three inches of lift, and it is, therefore, necessary to relocate the rear trac bar to keep the rear axle centered. Also, it more than likely will require the droppig of the T-case to fix driveline angles. Now, neither of those things are HUGE items, but just be aware that they will most likely need to be done. I have heard that the trac bar relocation can be a pain.
I have seen many posts in other message boards where people have said that the ride of their Jeeps is better with the OME lift than it was when it was stock.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
A better alternative to a transfer case drop is a motor mount lift. This has the advantage of retaining the full ground clearance achieved by the lift.
OME do not supply a kit as such, they supply their dealers with individual components, who then offer them as kits. I used HD springs and shocks plus a rear trackbar bracket. Ride and handling are superior to stock.
Mac: Good info to know. It's always a good thing to get opinions from people that have the parts that you are looking at.
Tony
As far as lifts go, I'm in the middle of installing the same OME shocks and springs that Mac has on his Jeep. The shocks alone are great and I'll be glad to answer any questions once the rest of the install is complete. I elected to go with an adjustable rear trackbar instead of the bracket that is available to reuse the factory trackbar. The OME looks expensive relative to other lifts of the same size, but the quality of components and ride are second to none. I rode in a quite a few lifted Jeeps and saw how they performed on trails in my area before deciding on the OME stuff. Short of a long arm lift at $2k+, it is one of the best riding suspensions you can put in a Jeep IMO.
-twylie
The only time I can account for big swings in milage is on an E-W interstate. If I'm heading West and have a headwind, my mileage can drop 4mpg from the same stretch going East with a tailwind.
One of the guys tsjay and I chatted with the other night said he was getting sub 10 mpg numbers; left me feeling much better about my mileage!
-twylie
As mentioned, you don't always get the tank filled to exactly the same level each time, and this can have a big effect on the number you get for MPG.
Driving conditions change from tank to tank, and this will effect the MPG.
So, check several consecutive tanks, and take the average of all of those tanks full to get an idea of what you are really getting for MPG.
Thelma Jane's mileage has gone down as I have added weight from the winch and the armor. Also, those 31 x 10.50 BFG Muds have taken their toll on the gas mileage. (I know you have to correct your indicated miles for tire diameter, but in my case, the indicated miles are actually truer with the 31's than they were with the factory 30's.)
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Tony - Love those photos! I would agree with Glen - I'd want a hard top. How do you clean your back window (or do you just ignore it and clean only the windshield)? I have the hard top and no place to store it, so it just stays on. It is still a really fun vehicle, even with the hard top on all the time. Just wish we'd get some white stuff - we had rain last night (warmer storm) and no other cold storm in sight. I have hopes that we'll see something white around President's Weekend - we usually do.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Mtngal: Like Tom said I have a hard top till the ice melts (later today when we go for a ride). You guessed it though, I don't clear off the back windows. Since I have the full doors I clear them and the windshield and let the heat as I drive clear the rest. I want to get a set of half doors for the summer, but plan on keeping the fulls for winter and the cold.
Tony
Once you have the pictures in your computer, you can easily upload them to any of the free sites that host pictures. Some allow you to link to any site (like this one) and some do not (imagestation does not, but I still like it. I've also started to use webshots and really like it also).
Tom can tell you how to upload to Gill's site - he hosts Jeep photos (that's where Tom puts lots of his photos). I haven't used it yet, so I'm not sure how it works.
Just get those pics converted to electronic files in the .jpg format, and keep them under 500 KB in size. We will then help ya get em hosted and posted.
If you haven't sent them off yet, let me recommend a really nice film developing service... photoworks.com in Seattle. They scan all of your pics and store them on their website for ya. If you pay an extra $5.00. they will even send you a CD will high resolution scans of your pics on it. I was very pleased with their quality, price, and service when I was using my 35 MM camera before getting my digi.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
You posted above you added seat heaters to your Jeep. I'm interested in the same. I'd appreciate any info on where you got yours.
Thanks,
Daryl
The other interesting thing was that I caught several typos, in the first casual read. On the graph that shows payloads and tow capabilities, it is labeled at the bottom that it is for the Liberty. I thought that was odd, as the brochure is a Wrangler only. They must have copied it from the Liberty brochure without double checking! Gave me something to chuckle about.
JeepHead
http://www.ewylie.com/jeep/seatheat.htm
Apparently the pricing has gone up since I got mine. Closer to $120 each now.
There is another source I found that has them for less money, but I do not know anything first hand about these kits, although they appear to be comparable. http://www.nwautoleather.com/nwautoleather/seat-heaters.html
my email is in my profile, feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions.
-twylie
:--)
And, it's not the tire diameter that matters as far as the rim is concerned, but the tire width. You didn't say what width you were going to get.
We need to know the type of wheel, the backspacing of that wheel, and the width of the tires you are thinking about, Billy, in order to give you the proper advice. If you don't know the backspacing, just tell us the type of wheel, and maybe we will know what the backspacing is.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Hope it's a good 'un and that the install goes well.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I am thinking of replacing the stock spare tire carrier. I am concerned about the hinges back there, I imagine that they take a beating due to the weight of the spare - particularly during wheeling sessions. Should I be concerned?
I was thinking of somekind of swing-away carrier that might also be used one day to carry a larger tire... If this is a legitimate concern, does anyone have any suggestions for a well made product? Also, what would be a good way to mount a hi-lift jack (and where)? I'm thinking of going to the Jeep Jamboree this coming August... and these may well Buffy's first mods!
I think Durango4x4 had something like that, anyone know what their quality and service is like?
Thanks,
Andrew
I am going to make an assumption here, and you can tell me if this is not true. I am going to say you have the factory tires that would normally come with the 30" tire package, and those wheels would be eithr Grizzlies or Canyons. Can't remember what year Jeep you have, Billy.
With either of the wheels I just named, you can run 31 x 10.50 tires. The Grizzlies are 15 x 7 with 5" backspacing, and the Canyons are 15 x 8 with 5.5" backspacing.
Scroll up the page to where I posted that diagram for an explanation of backspacing . That was just a couple days ago, I think, so it shouldn't be hard to find.
You might find it necessary to put some washers behind your steering stops to prevent rubbing the insides of your front tires on the control arms. Some people have to and some people don't. It's a real close thing.
Hope this helps, Billy.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Those are two inch conduit clamps that are attached to the roll bars. They fit perfectly, as if they had been made for that very purpose. I took 1 1/4" x 5/16 bolts and used two nuts on each bolt, one to serve as a jam nut, and made those bolts act as studs to mount the hi lift on. My buddy at work came up with this idea.
I had to drill a 5/8" hole near the tip of that end piece on the hi lift in order to be able to run the stud bolt through there.
Oh, I have the same concerns as you do about the weight of the spare taking a toll on the hinges of the tail gate, but I haven't done anything about it yet.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
However, if your want to treat your Jeep to a new toy, don't let me deter you!
Damn, that is pretty slick! Never even thought of putting it inside... How is the padding on the bar surviving it? The padding seems pretty sturdy, but that's quit a bit of weight digging into it (I am guessing you have the 48" jack, and even that's no light-weight).
Mac:
I was more worried about the weight damaging the hinges of the tailgate... But I am guessing that, hopefully, the DC engineers took that into consideration... Have no fears about deterring me from buying toys for Buffy - I have a rather long list of things needed, this was more of a consideration for her well being...
Thanks,
Andrew
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Mac;
These 32" tires won't clear the bumper on the stock tail gate spare carrier. I was going to modify the carrier by welding a plate to the mount side and drilling new holes to raise it, but if someone makes an adapter, like you mentioned, that would be a much better solution.
The adapter would be very easy to reproduce if you are at all handy, and you could make it to suit your exact wheel/tire combo.
http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe
Extended bolts and spacers are also available for the third brake light.
Andrew: I thought about the weight of the spare too, kinda like everyone else. The stock 31's on the Rubi have some weight to them but I'm hoping DC put enough thought into it. I'm not going to worry till the 2" lift and 33's get on Amy in a couple of years.
Tony
Andrew
I have mine stored in the foot well behind the drivers seat.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I'm still alive and well up here in the Pine Tree State. It is still frigid up here and no snow.
Without snow, winter is pointless. Let's move onto mud season!
I have about 30k on my 01 Sport- 11k since late October when I picked her up.
I am debating if I should just buy 31" BFGs or should go ahead and spend the extra bucks to put on 33s and a 3" lift.
I figure by the time I put on another 6k I'll be out of factory warranty and my standard issue 30" Goodyears will ready for replacement.
My biggest pain in the cold is the shifter boot getting so stiff it doesn't like the shifter to go into 5th.
Those seat heaters seem like a very good idea. Has anyone seen any kind of kit for floor insulation or hard top insulation?
-Bill