Okay, my wife bought me the XM integrated Alpine unit for my Jeep for Xmas. BUT, it only has pre-amp outputs for front/rear or front/sub. My current one has 3 sets. That bummed me out.
So... I returned it and got the CDA-9827, XM ready unit and purchased the external receiver I need to make it work. They are much smaller than the one I currently have in my sedan. That's good, cuz it will go under my car seat or somewhere in my dash (if I can find a spot w/o being a contortionist).
The radio install was a simple swapout and I was even able to reuse the existing wiring harness from my old Alpine (which is going to go in my daughter's Honda). As for the antenna, I want to put it on the rollbar where my speakers are located, but I'm concerned about the curvature of the bar.
Twylie, you out there??? How did you mount your XM antenna on the bar and have it secure? I have the Terk mini antenna, which is about 3 50 cent pieces thick and about as big around.
I hope to have the XM portion installed before I go to Turkey Bay on the 31st.
mtngal, did your setup have the subwoofer? How did they get it to work? Do you have fader/balance/AND subwoofer control?
I just unzipped the cover on the soundbar and pushed it under the cover a few inches. I have the Terk micro on my Jeep as well. Do you have a cover on your soundbar or rollbar? If so, I'd shove it under there and call it good. My reception has been very good, but occasionally drops out in heavily wooded areas.
I guess the new antennas don't require the attachment to metal that the old XM antennas did? Cool!
I have a soundbar from www.edgeauto.com and I really like it and it has a cloth top so I will try it there. So I guess you have two layers of material to go through - the sound bar cloth AND the soft top!
Guess I'll throw some polyfil in there while I'm at it!
My understanding is that the best reception will be had by leaving 6-12" of metal around the antenna which is why they recommend the center of a deck lid or on the roof. My experience is that they still work pretty well without this "plane".
I'll give it a shot. Since I'm not taping it down with the sticky stuff first, if I have to move it, I'll be fine. It has 23' of line. I THINK that will be long enough to run it just about anywhere in the Jeep and hide the cable just fine.
Thanks for the info.
BTW, you know of a place called Skyline over near Scottsboro by the AL/GA border?
well im in talks with a dealer in Indiana of all places on a new green rubicon unlimited auto, soft top. great price of $26,357 - 500 military discount for a total of $25,857. Nice guy, just need to check out shipping, and for some reason they want me to pay indiana sales tax, so need to check with texas as this seems strange....good price, may just get a regular unlimited and have a lift and tires put on it will save me several thou over the rubi...but it sure is sharp....
I must say i did not like the grey soft tops at first but they have kinda grown on me and really look good on the dark colors IMO...
Well, here is the deal on the rubi. The salesman said they are located across the street from one of three jeep factories in the town and have a special relationship. That is to be able to sell jeeps at employee rates until the first of the year. It was also nice that they will take the military discount on top of the employee pricing. The only downside is have to pay for shipping which i was told is about $800 and having to pay indiana tax. I dunno if i will purchase the jeep but it sure is nice to speak to friendly and helpfull sales representatives for a change......I know, apply and get accepted to grad school over in southbend and walla NO shipping costs...yea that its...LOL...
Does Texas have a sales tax? Some states recognize each others sales tax, if that is the right way to say it. I mean if you pay an equal or higher sales tax in IN, then Texas may forego any sales tax. If you pay less IN tax than TX would charge, then they may only make you pay the difference. I don't know if TX and IN have such an agreement. That may be more of a thing bordering states would do.
I simply cannot believe that no dealers within a reasonable driving distance will treat you right. Aren't you in or near a big city, like Dallas/FW? There must be scores of DC dealers!
Have you tried Jeepwarehouse.com? They will deliver to a dealer near you.
There lots of dealers in the DFW area, but only one has a rubicon unlimited that ive found and its not coming off msrp right now. Although i did come across a dealer in dallas that has reasonable prices on the unlimited and is willing to negotiate. I did try Jeep Warehouse and the same rubi unlimited is about $1,500 higher since they cannot offer me DCX employee discount which is only available by this dealer until Dec. 31
As to the taxes I was told i would have to pay the difference in tax between texas and indiana which texas is .005 higher.
However, i do have a question about the different axle ratios between the unlimited and rubi. unlimited. I see the rubi has a ratio of 4.11 and unlimited has 3.73. I do alot of highway miles (400M a week avg) and really dont know what the ratios would mean to me in performance, gas mileage, engine wear, etc. Im not an offroader, just really like the wrangler. Also, i noticed the rubi unlimited with auto is almost 300 pounds heavier than the regular unlimited with auto.
Would I be better suited to get the regular unlimited due to the axle ratio and lighter weight compared to the rubi unlimited and save the 5K. Just wanted a little advice from those that use em as a daily driver or in the know more than myself. Thanks, Jeff
due to the larger tires, lockers, D44 axle up front, etc that are additional to a standard wrangler.
A Rubi unlimited will weigh more than a regular unlimited.
A regular Rubi will weigh more than a regular Sport with D44.
Not to make you mad, but if you don't offroad, why did you want the offroad features of the Rubi? If you plan to at some time down the road, err trail, I can understand completely. But if this rig is only going to see cement and asphalt, the extra charges may not make much sense.
I'd check OKC dealers if I were you. There is one in Norman I believe right on I-35 (in the "Mile of Cars" area and I'm sure there are some more further north.
Paul, not mad, good question. I do not need all the off road ability of the rubi, but IMO its nicer looking than the regular unlimited. However, I thought I could save the 5K and get a small lift and larger tires later down the road so to speak. I really do not know if the rubi gear ratio will mean that the engine will rev higher at the same speeds of the unlimited? I dunno if it really makes a difference for my intended use. The only thing ive found pushing me to the rubi is the color combination I would prefer. It is only available in the rubi option, the deep beryl green with kahky top and interior....I can only get the green and grey otherwise and I really do not like grey interiors....
Okay, I have to admit I like the looks of the Rubi too. If you decide to go with a regular Unlimited, you CAN build it up with lifts, tires, lockers, etc, but I'm not sure you could do it for the price of the Rubi from the factory.
I have an SE (97) and sure wish I could upgrade it to full lockers, bigger engine, better axles and all that, but given the engine, tranny, and axles, it just isn't cost effective to do so. I'll use this one as my learning Jeep and upgrade once I can do it all w/o the goodies. Wheeling w/o lockers I think makes you a better, safer, and smarter offroader in the long run. The equipment just makes it easier once you know all that.
If it is just the color choice, why don't you just find a dealer you like, then order what you want direct from the factory? That is what Tom did. The worst part is the wait. I would think they'd still honor the discounts.
The 4.11 gearing compensates for the 31" tires that come on the Rubi. The acceleration would be more sluggish if they kept the 3.73 gearing with the 31" tires.
Thelma Jane has 31 x 10.50 tires, and she still has her orginal 3.73 gearing. It's not terrible, but I wouldn't mind having some more acceleration.
There is not one thing wrong, in my opinion, with buying a Rubi, even if you are going to keep it on the street. If that's what you want and what you like, then go for it.
However, if you want to save some money, then just get a regular Unlimited and put a lift and larger tires on it.
Since you will not be off roading, you will not need the 4:1 low range in the transfer case, nor will you need the D44 up front, nor will you need the front and rear lockers.
Other than available colors on one model vs. the other and the nice looking block letters that say "RUBICON" on the side of the hood, a lifted regular Unlimited with bigger tires will look the same as a Rubicon Unlimited.
It's entirely up to you, Jeff.
One thing about it, if you DO decide to go off roading sometime, you will sure be ready for it with the Rubi Unlimited!
decide to go offroading, Tom is more than ready to show you around Turkey Bay, right tom?!
Jeff, I didn't want to give you the impression that you shouldn't get the Rubi. If I did, I apologize. I completely agree with Tom, that if you want the Rubicon look, even a budget lift (spacers) and bigger tires will give you the look you desire and save the money.
I forgot about the 4:1 t-case. But if you do want to go offroad, the Rubi Unlimited is an awesome mix of interior space, wheelbase, capabilities right from the factory.
Bottom line, either one you will love. As much as I want to do more and more to my TJ SE, it is still a great little Jeep and I love it! It ain't no Rubicon, but it IS A JEEP!
I dunno what Jeeps they make in Indiana or if they do, but the one thing I can say is that every single Jeep Wrangler rolls out of one factory in Toledo, Ohio--even the ones sold in Europe. I think Grand Cherokees are made up near Detroit, but I'm not sure about Libertys.
If you think you want a Rubi, then don't settle for less. The last thing you'd want is to spend major dollars and the drool every time you see a Rubi drive by.
However, I would not trust an out-of-state dealer. If it sounds too good to be true--it is. Eric is right. Drive up to Norman, OK or even a little further to Edmond. You'll find a dealer there that will treat you right and probably have a good inventory.
mine is lifted with 33" tires and 3.73 rear end, it slowed the acceleration, but its ok. I didn't buy a racecar I bought a jeep.
if the rubi unlimited would have been available as a 2004 I would have bought it instead. lots of extra features,, nice to have,,
If today you never think your jeep will be offroad, I'll bet within a month or so after buying it, you will be saying ,, I'll bet I could drive over "that"
then the next week, I'll bet you say I could drive through that creek (pronounced crik)
then you will be signing up to come to Western IL for the www.trjc.com 4x4 Blast!!
I know this has probably been hashed out a dozen times here on this board but if you don't mind......
I have been looking into both the rubicon and sport and would like to hear everyone's opinion. I don't do much offroading but I drive approx. 15,000 miles per year. I am leaning towards the rubicon only because of Dana 44 in the front (hey, it's for the potholes here in NY), the limited slip in the rear (which is stronger than the one you can get in the sport) and basically the look. Who knows, if I had a rubicon maybe I venture offroad more often.
Don't be taken in by the front D44 as its weakest component is the same as that of the D30, the axleshaft 'u' joints. Think of it as D30/44 hybrid.
You're correct about the rear LSD and I can't disagree about the Rubicon 'look'. However, don't ever be led to believe that any of the other Wrangler models are anything other than extremely capable offroad vehicles. The features on the Rubicon will benefit you mainly on a specific type of offroading i.e. rockcrawling.
Finally, buying a Rubicon because it looks good is just as valid a reason as any. (Oh, and the 'Search' feature in the blue boxes at the top and bottom of the page works very well!)
Mac is right about that - get what you like. If you want the looks of the Rubi, you CAN make a sport look like a Rubicon without too much trouble. But the mechanicals are pricey to add later (lockers, axles, etc). So if you think you might want to offroad at some point, go ahead and get the Rubicon.
BTW, even with 15,000 miles/year, neither one is exactly stellar with gas mileage.
Welcome! I believe that you are new to this board?
Anyway, I go along with what has been said above. You DO NOT have to justify getting a Rubi, if a Rubi is what you want. If you like the Rubi and can afford it, then go for it.
Mac is right that the search feature works well, but I'm not sure what you would type in there to search on for your question without getting way too many "hits." Type either "Sport" or "Rubicon," and I'm sure you would find about a gazillion posts.
to my Wrangler. As much as I hyped the Alpine integrated unit, I purchased it and returned it. Not because of the XM feature, but because the 3 preamp outputs I had on my previous head unit (front/rear/sub) were shrunk to 2 (front/rear or front/sub). That was not going to work for me and how I wanted it hooked up.
SO... I got the Alpine CDA9827 unit and the XM Direct adapter that you can see on xmradio.com's website. Installation was VERY simple once I found locations for the 2 pieces. The Alpine adapter is under my airbag setup and above my glovebox. That was fun. Then I mounted the receiver on the passenger side up out of the way. The antenna is run along the passenger side and up through the padding of the roll cage and the antenna itself is finally mounted UNDER my soundbar cloth and under the soft top.
I have 2 layers of fabric to go through and I was STILL able to receive the Preview channel (1) through that AND my house. I think that will work just fine and you cannot even see the XM components unless you REALLY search for them.
The dealership is sending the paperwork for me to review and if i agree the wrangler unlimited rubi will be mine. I only found 2 available in the DFW area and i could get a couple grand off one. The one in Indiana, I will be getting the 05 for $25,857 with MSRP of $30,457 not bad. I will know tomorrow for sure and will keep ya posted.....
My wife has about decided that she wants an SUV again(mainly because it's been seven days since the ice/snow storm and the Wrangler is still the only vehicle that can make it down our 2600' farm road). We'd get another TJ but we need at least one vehicle with four doors-and the Club Sport ain't goin nowhere! Anyways, we prefer the nimble size of the Liberty but we can't find a new-never mind used-model that's equipped the way we want: LSD, ABS, and off road group. We've see a few 2002 and 2003 GC Limiteds we like but I've heard some horror stories about long term reliability. What has your experience been with the GCs? Thanks!
I know you didn't ask me, but you get to hear it anyway.
I have a 2000 WJ (GC Limited). This was the second year for the WJ, so there were still some kinks to work out. The ONLY issues I've had are:
1. brake rotor warp - there is a known fix, I just haven't dont it yet
2. Slow pinion seal leak early on. After 3 visits to the dealer, it is fine and hasn't dripped since.
3. rattling noise in passenger front door below the window sill. Suspect it is related to when inside panel was removed for window tint.
Other than that, it has been an EXCELLENT vehicle and we have over 105,000 miles on it already. You could probably get a newer version (01-04)with less miles and in just as good a shape (and without the rotor issue). I know there is one on a particular Jeep website for sale, if you let me know, I'll get the info.
The ride is excellent the Quadradrive is nice and seamless, and the 4Lo works just like you'd expect it to work. We have used this for hauling stuff around town, hauling uhauls across the country, and taking ski trips. It has been a GREAT vehicle for us. If my wife didn't hate the new WK's so much, she'd probably opt for an upgrade on her baby.
I hope someone can help me. I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler. When my hardtop is on I get condensation on the inside of the hardtop. The large water droplets appear regardless of outside conditions. It is not so bad in subzero conditions because they freeze, otherwise I end up with wet seats, dashboard, and floors. Any ideas?
I currently drive a paid off 98 GC SE 4x4 (90K) with a small lift and larger tires. Its really been a terrific vehicle with no problems, the inline six is a great engine and i've kept it in like new condition.
I told my wife if i get the wrangler i will sell the GC myself and use money for bills etc... She gave me a strange look and said she would not let me sell the GC and asked me to store it in the garage until she is out of her lease on her Envoy..........I cannot believe she said this but if she insists 8~) LOL.......in the garage it will go.....
Heck the dealers do not stick by the blue/black book on trade-in and i was told by the dealer that all those pricing sites are completely wrong. They wanted to give me 3K for my GC while in average condition trade-in was 5.5K and retail 7-9K.....My father-in law sells new GMC's and is head of used lot. He said he makes not less than 1K on every used car sold and thats the minimum and on new he may make $100 if its discounted and 1K if hes is lucky.....so he focuses on the used line......dont blame him......
on employee pricing in Indiana. The dealership is located across the street from a Chrysler Plant, one of 3 in the city. The dealership is allowed one Green Slip (DCX employee pricing) per month for anyone to use. The dealer used the discount to lower the price on the rubi to below what the dealer could purchase the car from DCX. Plus i get the 500 DCX discount and 500 military deductions in addition to it all...... shipping is a bit steep at $865 but it saves me $250 airfare and gas and a 15 hour drive back...... papers will be at the house on friday now due to a delay getting final shipping price.........Its getting exciting now.....Only one obstical is i have to have the papers back to fedex before midnight friday (new years).....or no deal due to pricing deadline from DCX... and jeep turns into toad....LOL....
At long last I'm happy to report that all of my stripped Torx Bolts have been removed and I'm ready to install my roof rack this weekend.
To recap, when trying to remove the flush torx bolts at the base of the windshield pillars I stripped three of them. One, I was able to drill out and remove. I broke off E-Z Outs in the other two which put a quick end to any further drilling. The solution finally came by way of a local auto body shop that was able to get them out for me with some left handed drill bits and an air chisel. I'm considering the $60.00 I gave them cheap tuition. Here's what I learned.
First, don't strip them in the first place. If you feel them starting to give then stop and get a better tool. I stripped mine with a torx socket purchased from Quadratech. Most of the advice I've gotten leads me to believe that rather than a socket set, I should have used an impact wrench.
Second, if you do strip it drilling it out can be easy if you take it slow and use good equipment. Use brand new bits, start small and work your way bigger. I drilled a small hole all the way through the bolt. Then I used a larger bit to drill the head off. When all I had was the bolt stud with a hole all the way through it I heated a metal rod and inserted it in the hole to release the Loctite. Then I used an E-Z Out to very carefully work the bolt free. If I had done this procedure with a left handed drill bit I may have never needed the E-Z out at all.
Third, E-Z Outs are made of really hard stuff. At all costs, avoid breaking them off in the bolt.
Thanks to everyone on this board who offered advice along the way. I'll try and post some pictures once I get everything installed. It's supposed to be 60 degrees this weekend so all the vehicles are getting a bath.
Recieved the paperwork today from the dealer. Reviewed the contract and no games all up front for $25,887. The actual green slip was in the paperwork stating the discount from DCX to employees, kinda neat to get that discount. All signed and back to fedex. My rubi unlimited should be arriving within the next 10 days to my home. I found the dealer on ebay, have a link to my jeep through ebay if ya wanna check it out since i cannot figure out how to post a pic...Happy New Years to All !!!!!!!
Sorry if any of these questions are redundant, but I’m just starting out with this. After lusting after a Wrangler for 12 years, I’ve decided my 30th is the year to do something about it. I’m looking to spend $10,000-$15,000 on a 99-02 Sport or Sahara. I live in DC and I don’t want something too nice that I’ll be distraught when it gets dinged up or broken into, but obviously I still want to be infatuated with my first Wrangler. It’ll mostly be driven on short commutes to work, running around the DC/NOVA area, and 3 hour drives to the beach on weekends, so serious offroading will be minimal-to-none. I’m imagining a silver or black or red Sport with a black hardtop and black wheels with tires that are bigger than stock but not lift-worthy. Here are my general questions.
Are there any huge differences between the 99 to 02 model years that would influence a generalist like myself?
Do people prefer hard or soft tops? I realize this is a subjective question but feel free to offer opinions. How common (and expensive) is it to have both?
Has anyone had experience buying one in the Washington DC area? I like the “no hassle/no haggle” idea of Carmax? Any thoughts on that?
There are minor differences between '99 and '02, but none that affect the way the vehicle performs. I can't even think of any that are visually apparent.
The condition of the vehicle is far more important than the age. Much better to have an earlier one (at the right price) that has low mileage and has been well maintained, than a later model that had an owner that drove it like he stole it!
Hard vs. soft top is like milk vs. dark chocolate......there's no right answer, only opinions. With a secondhand vehicle there's little price difference between single and dual tops. However, they're harder to find and you'll need somewhere to store the hardtop when you're not using it. You mention six hour drives at the weekend, so I'd give consideration to cruise control.
I've never dealt with Carmax so I can only assume that 'no haggle' means 'we won't negotiate to reduce the price'.
I go away for a week and there are tons of messages to catch up on (LOVE that!).
Paul - sorry I was out of touch getting GiGi (my Green Giant - an Electric Green Unlimited, not a Rubi) covered with red Utah mud (we don't see much mud where we live). I've got to find a hand car wash soon - there is no way I'll be able to wash her at home. I'm still in LV (leaving today) and wondering if I'm going to get home easily - they were talking about snow in feet on the NWS web site. I'm not sure I could have been much help, though. I do have the subwoofer package, but I had the shop where I bought the Alpine head do the install. I know they did mess around with the wiring harness a bit, but don't ask me how they got it to work.
Hard top vs. soft top - Definitely a personal choice. I love having the sunroof option on the Unlimited, though I've only used it a couple of times (got it too late in the fall for good topless weather). The hard top is marginally quieter. Doesn't matter as far as keeping the vehicle warm or cool. Soft top could need to be replaced sooner than the hard top, and definitely needs more care (reason for making sure you find a hand done car wash, versus using any car wash - what I have always done with the '98 Sport hard top we have).
If you are looking at an older used Wrangler, check out the exhaust manifold. I think they were redesigned in 2001 (or 2000?). Before that they cracked/failed most of the time, and they are expensive to replace - it cost me something like $800 to have it done to the Sport.
Just a comment (my opinion) about color - the Sport is black and I have no intention of ever owning another black vehicle. It looks great, but it is hotter than other vehicles. And if you ever go to Camp Jeep with a black Wrangler, don't forget where you parked. We did that this past summer - the VAST majority of Wranglers there were black and we walked up and down 5 aisles before we found ours! At least I won't have a problem with GiGi - I don't think I've ever seen another bright green one.
I am glad to hear that you are going to fulfil a long standing dream! You will LOVE that Jeep.
A couple things that come to mind that changed during the period from 99 to 02 are the distributorless ignition (at least I don't THINK they had that in 99) and the NV3550 manual tranny replaced the AX-15 late in the 2000 model year. You might want an auto tranny, since you will be in city traffic a lot.
As far as hard top vs. soft top, there are several things to consider. As Mac mentioned, you need a good place to store the hard top when it is off of the Jeep. That's one major consideration.
Also, will you have someone to help you take the hard top off and put it back on. Those puppies are HEAVY and awkward to handle. It's a job that you would NOT want to do every day or two. When you take the top off, you are going to want to leave it off for a long time, and vice versa.
The hard top works out fine for me, because I have a garage to keep the Jeep parked in on days when rain is in the forecast, and I have an alternate means of transportation to get to work. As a matter of fact, the Jeep is NOT my daily driver, although she sure sees a LOT of that duty in the summer when I have the top off.
I don't have the soft top, just the hard top. There have been times when I wished that I did have the soft top, but, overall, I am satisfied having the hard top only.
I prefer the soft top, the sailcloth soft top is just about as quiet as the hardtop. The sailcloth top was fitted to TJs from 2001-on. I installed a Bestop sailcloth Replace-A-Top on my Sahara it's an easy one hour job. My TJ's exhaust manifold cracked a couple of months ago. I replaced it with a stainless steel header from Banks Engineering. The header costs $400 and installation runs another $250-$350. It's not too hard to install but I didn't have the spare time to do the job properly and I couldn't really take the jeep out of service too long.
I was fortunate enough to be able to go to the Tellico OHV Area near Murphy, NC, this weekend. Tellico is probably the most famous place to "wheel" east of the Mississippi.
I had a great time, and the weather was terrific. It was in the 60's the whole time we were there. The scenery was beautiful, even though this is not a pretty time of year.
This pic shows a representative obstacle that one encounters on the trails. The trails are cut into the sides of mountains, so that adds a little "thrill" to the wheelin' (it's a LONG way down most places). Behind me as I took this pic was the edge of the trail. Trust me, you would not want to go over the edge.
We had a super good time, and no one got any trail damage. (Well, guess I had better inspect Thelma Jane's underside to be sure, because there were plenty of scary scraping and banging noises at times.)
Here's a scenery shot. This was taken right beside the Ocoee River. The road follows the river for a long ways. This is just a little feeder creek that dumps into the Ocoee just a few yards from this spot.
Looks like a great place glad ya had fun. Ive been cleaning out the garage so i car park my wrangler out of the weather.....still waiting probably 10 working days per the dealer and im going crazy....still cant believe it was the colors i wanted.......
We got home safely and it didn't take us much longer than normal to arrive on my home street. It took another hour or so to arrange for a parking place. Here is a picture of lovely, Southern California (and they say it never rains here...).
Can you find my Noble Black Steed (a black Wrangler) in this photo?
lol, I drove the gravel roads in Tellico a bunch back in the 70's and it's a pretty spot, but that snow looks much more appealing. Maybe you could dig the Black Steed out and tow me around on my snowboard Mtngal?
Comments
So... I returned it and got the CDA-9827, XM ready unit and purchased the external receiver I need to make it work. They are much smaller than the one I currently have in my sedan. That's good, cuz it will go under my car seat or somewhere in my dash (if I can find a spot w/o being a contortionist).
The radio install was a simple swapout and I was even able to reuse the existing wiring harness from my old Alpine (which is going to go in my daughter's Honda). As for the antenna, I want to put it on the rollbar where my speakers are located, but I'm concerned about the curvature of the bar.
Twylie, you out there??? How did you mount your XM antenna on the bar and have it secure? I have the Terk mini antenna, which is about 3 50 cent pieces thick and about as big around.
I hope to have the XM portion installed before I go to Turkey Bay on the 31st.
mtngal, did your setup have the subwoofer? How did they get it to work? Do you have fader/balance/AND subwoofer control?
-Paul
-twylie
I have a soundbar from www.edgeauto.com and I really like it and it has a cloth top so I will try it there. So I guess you have two layers of material to go through - the sound bar cloth AND the soft top!
Guess I'll throw some polyfil in there while I'm at it!
-Paul
-twylie
Thanks for the info.
BTW, you know of a place called Skyline over near Scottsboro by the AL/GA border?
-Paul
I must say i did not like the grey soft tops at first but they have kinda grown on me and really look good on the dark colors IMO...
I simply cannot believe that no dealers within a reasonable driving distance will treat you right. Aren't you in or near a big city, like Dallas/FW? There must be scores of DC dealers!
Have you tried Jeepwarehouse.com? They will deliver to a dealer near you.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
As to the taxes I was told i would have to pay the difference in tax between texas and indiana which texas is .005 higher.
However, i do have a question about the different axle ratios between the unlimited and rubi. unlimited. I see the rubi has a ratio of 4.11 and unlimited has 3.73. I do alot of highway miles (400M a week avg) and really dont know what the ratios would mean to me in performance, gas mileage, engine wear, etc. Im not an offroader, just really like the wrangler. Also, i noticed the rubi unlimited with auto is almost 300 pounds heavier than the regular unlimited with auto.
Would I be better suited to get the regular unlimited due to the axle ratio and lighter weight compared to the rubi unlimited and save the 5K. Just wanted a little advice from those that use em as a daily driver or in the know more than myself. Thanks, Jeff
A Rubi unlimited will weigh more than a regular unlimited.
A regular Rubi will weigh more than a regular Sport with D44.
Not to make you mad, but if you don't offroad, why did you want the offroad features of the Rubi? If you plan to at some time down the road, err trail, I can understand completely. But if this rig is only going to see cement and asphalt, the extra charges may not make much sense.
I'd check OKC dealers if I were you. There is one in Norman I believe right on I-35 (in the "Mile of Cars" area and I'm sure there are some more further north.
-Paul
I have an SE (97) and sure wish I could upgrade it to full lockers, bigger engine, better axles and all that, but given the engine, tranny, and axles, it just isn't cost effective to do so. I'll use this one as my learning Jeep and upgrade once I can do it all w/o the goodies. Wheeling w/o lockers I think makes you a better, safer, and smarter offroader in the long run. The equipment just makes it easier once you know all that.
If it is just the color choice, why don't you just find a dealer you like, then order what you want direct from the factory? That is what Tom did. The worst part is the wait. I would think they'd still honor the discounts.
-Paul
Thelma Jane has 31 x 10.50 tires, and she still has her orginal 3.73 gearing. It's not terrible, but I wouldn't mind having some more acceleration.
There is not one thing wrong, in my opinion, with buying a Rubi, even if you are going to keep it on the street. If that's what you want and what you like, then go for it.
However, if you want to save some money, then just get a regular Unlimited and put a lift and larger tires on it.
Since you will not be off roading, you will not need the 4:1 low range in the transfer case, nor will you need the D44 up front, nor will you need the front and rear lockers.
Other than available colors on one model vs. the other and the nice looking block letters that say "RUBICON" on the side of the hood, a lifted regular Unlimited with bigger tires will look the same as a Rubicon Unlimited.
It's entirely up to you, Jeff.
One thing about it, if you DO decide to go off roading sometime, you will sure be ready for it with the Rubi Unlimited!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Jeff, I didn't want to give you the impression that you shouldn't get the Rubi. If I did, I apologize. I completely agree with Tom, that if you want the Rubicon look, even a budget lift (spacers) and bigger tires will give you the look you desire and save the money.
I forgot about the 4:1 t-case. But if you do want to go offroad, the Rubi Unlimited is an awesome mix of interior space, wheelbase, capabilities right from the factory.
Bottom line, either one you will love.
-Paul
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
If you think you want a Rubi, then don't settle for less. The last thing you'd want is to spend major dollars and the drool every time you see a Rubi drive by.
However, I would not trust an out-of-state dealer. If it sounds too good to be true--it is. Eric is right. Drive up to Norman, OK or even a little further to Edmond. You'll find a dealer there that will treat you right and probably have a good inventory.
if the rubi unlimited would have been available as a 2004 I would have bought it instead. lots of extra features,, nice to have,,
If today you never think your jeep will be offroad, I'll bet within a month or so after buying it, you will be saying ,, I'll bet I could drive over "that"
then the next week, I'll bet you say I could drive through that creek (pronounced crik)
then you will be signing up to come to Western IL for the www.trjc.com 4x4 Blast!!
jeff
I know this has probably been hashed out a dozen times here on this board but if you don't mind......
I have been looking into both the rubicon and sport and would like to hear everyone's opinion. I don't do much offroading but I drive approx. 15,000 miles per year. I am leaning towards the rubicon only because of Dana 44 in the front (hey, it's for the potholes here in NY), the limited slip in the rear (which is stronger than the one you can get in the sport) and basically the look. Who knows, if I had a rubicon maybe I venture offroad more often.
Thanks in advanced
You're correct about the rear LSD and I can't disagree about the Rubicon 'look'. However, don't ever be led to believe that any of the other Wrangler models are anything other than extremely capable offroad vehicles. The features on the Rubicon will benefit you mainly on a specific type of offroading i.e. rockcrawling.
Finally, buying a Rubicon because it looks good is just as valid a reason as any. (Oh, and the 'Search' feature in the blue boxes at the top and bottom of the page works very well!)
BTW, even with 15,000 miles/year, neither one is exactly stellar with gas mileage.
-Paul
Anyway, I go along with what has been said above. You DO NOT have to justify getting a Rubi, if a Rubi is what you want. If you like the Rubi and can afford it, then go for it.
Mac is right that the search feature works well, but I'm not sure what you would type in there to search on for your question without getting way too many "hits." Type either "Sport" or "Rubicon," and I'm sure you would find about a gazillion posts.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
SO... I got the Alpine CDA9827 unit and the XM Direct adapter that you can see on xmradio.com's website. Installation was VERY simple once I found locations for the 2 pieces. The Alpine adapter is under my airbag setup and above my glovebox. That was fun. Then I mounted the receiver on the passenger side up out of the way. The antenna is run along the passenger side and up through the padding of the roll cage and the antenna itself is finally mounted UNDER my soundbar cloth and under the soft top.
I have 2 layers of fabric to go through and I was STILL able to receive the Preview channel (1) through that AND my house. I think that will work just fine and you cannot even see the XM components unless you REALLY search for them.
Activation today and I'll be a happy camper!
-Paul
got out bid on it,, then got a second chance offer through ebay to buy it. bought it. apparently they had more than one to sell.
So I'll be driving around topless when spring gets here!!
jeff
$950 (including shipping) from ebay,, sounded better than $1375+tax from the dealership.
I have a 2000 WJ (GC Limited). This was the second year for the WJ, so there were still some kinks to work out. The ONLY issues I've had are:
1. brake rotor warp - there is a known fix, I just haven't dont it yet
2. Slow pinion seal leak early on. After 3 visits to the dealer, it is fine and hasn't dripped since.
3. rattling noise in passenger front door below the window sill. Suspect it is related to when inside panel was removed for window tint.
Other than that, it has been an EXCELLENT vehicle and we have over 105,000 miles on it already. You could probably get a newer version (01-04)with less miles and in just as good a shape (and without the rotor issue). I know there is one on a particular Jeep website for sale, if you let me know, I'll get the info.
The ride is excellent the Quadradrive is nice and seamless, and the 4Lo works just like you'd expect it to work.
-Paul
My impression is that it's like the little girl in the nursery rhyme:
"When she was good, she was very very good;
but when she was bad she was horrid!"
I told my wife if i get the wrangler i will sell the GC myself and use money for bills etc... She gave me a strange look and said she would not let me sell the GC and asked me to store it in the garage until she is out of her lease on her Envoy..........I cannot believe she said this but if she insists 8~) LOL.......in the garage it will go.....
Heck the dealers do not stick by the blue/black book on trade-in and i was told by the dealer that all those pricing sites are completely wrong. They wanted to give me 3K for my GC while in average condition trade-in was 5.5K and retail 7-9K.....My father-in law sells new GMC's and is head of used lot. He said he makes not less than 1K on every used car sold and thats the minimum and on new he may make $100 if its discounted and 1K if hes is lucky.....so he focuses on the used line......dont blame him......
everyone has names for their jeeps,, Toad would be one no one else is using..
jeff
A gal on here named her Rubi something about a frog or toad, but can't remember for sure.
Good luck with all of it!
-Paul
To recap, when trying to remove the flush torx bolts at the base of the windshield pillars I stripped three of them. One, I was able to drill out and remove. I broke off E-Z Outs in the other two which put a quick end to any further drilling. The solution finally came by way of a local auto body shop that was able to get them out for me with some left handed drill bits and an air chisel. I'm considering the $60.00 I gave them cheap tuition. Here's what I learned.
First, don't strip them in the first place. If you feel them starting to give then stop and get a better tool. I stripped mine with a torx socket purchased from Quadratech. Most of the advice I've gotten leads me to believe that rather than a socket set, I should have used an impact wrench.
Second, if you do strip it drilling it out can be easy if you take it slow and use good equipment. Use brand new bits, start small and work your way bigger. I drilled a small hole all the way through the bolt. Then I used a larger bit to drill the head off. When all I had was the bolt stud with a hole all the way through it I heated a metal rod and inserted it in the hole to release the Loctite. Then I used an E-Z Out to very carefully work the bolt free. If I had done this procedure with a left handed drill bit I may have never needed the E-Z out at all.
Third, E-Z Outs are made of really hard stuff. At all costs, avoid breaking them off in the bolt.
Thanks to everyone on this board who offered advice along the way. I'll try and post some pictures once I get everything installed. It's supposed to be 60 degrees this weekend so all the vehicles are getting a bath.
Yours in Jeep Coolness,
Dave
Just wanted to wish everyone a (belated) Merry Christmas and a safe and Happy New Year!
-Dan
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item- - - =4514148865&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT
Here you go:
Sorry if any of these questions are redundant, but I’m just starting out with this. After lusting after a Wrangler for 12 years, I’ve decided my 30th is the year to do something about it. I’m looking to spend $10,000-$15,000 on a 99-02 Sport or Sahara. I live in DC and I don’t want something too nice that I’ll be distraught when it gets dinged up or broken into, but obviously I still want to be infatuated with my first Wrangler. It’ll mostly be driven on short commutes to work, running around the DC/NOVA area, and 3 hour drives to the beach on weekends, so serious offroading will be minimal-to-none. I’m imagining a silver or black or red Sport with a black hardtop and black wheels with tires that are bigger than stock but not lift-worthy. Here are my general questions.
Are there any huge differences between the 99 to 02 model years that would influence a generalist like myself?
Do people prefer hard or soft tops? I realize this is a subjective question but feel free to offer opinions. How common (and expensive) is it to have both?
Has anyone had experience buying one in the Washington DC area? I like the “no hassle/no haggle” idea of Carmax? Any thoughts on that?
Thanks for entertaining these inane questions.
The condition of the vehicle is far more important than the age. Much better to have an earlier one (at the right price) that has low mileage and has been well maintained, than a later model that had an owner that drove it like he stole it!
Hard vs. soft top is like milk vs. dark chocolate......there's no right answer, only opinions. With a secondhand vehicle there's little price difference between single and dual tops. However, they're harder to find and you'll need somewhere to store the hardtop when you're not using it. You mention six hour drives at the weekend, so I'd give consideration to cruise control.
I've never dealt with Carmax so I can only assume that 'no haggle' means 'we won't negotiate to reduce the price'.
I saw the post about your deal being finalized on that Rubi Unlimited.
I am SO HAPPY FOR YA!!!!! Yeeeeeehawwwwwww!!!!!!!
Man, how are you gonna be able to sleep between now and delivery????
I saw the pic that mac posted for ya, and I really, really like the looks!!!
Tom
Paul - sorry I was out of touch getting GiGi (my Green Giant - an Electric Green Unlimited, not a Rubi) covered with red Utah mud (we don't see much mud where we live). I've got to find a hand car wash soon - there is no way I'll be able to wash her at home. I'm still in LV (leaving today) and wondering if I'm going to get home easily - they were talking about snow in feet on the NWS web site. I'm not sure I could have been much help, though. I do have the subwoofer package, but I had the shop where I bought the Alpine head do the install. I know they did mess around with the wiring harness a bit, but don't ask me how they got it to work.
Hard top vs. soft top - Definitely a personal choice. I love having the sunroof option on the Unlimited, though I've only used it a couple of times (got it too late in the fall for good topless weather). The hard top is marginally quieter. Doesn't matter as far as keeping the vehicle warm or cool. Soft top could need to be replaced sooner than the hard top, and definitely needs more care (reason for making sure you find a hand done car wash, versus using any car wash - what I have always done with the '98 Sport hard top we have).
If you are looking at an older used Wrangler, check out the exhaust manifold. I think they were redesigned in 2001 (or 2000?). Before that they cracked/failed most of the time, and they are expensive to replace - it cost me something like $800 to have it done to the Sport.
Just a comment (my opinion) about color - the Sport is black and I have no intention of ever owning another black vehicle. It looks great, but it is hotter than other vehicles. And if you ever go to Camp Jeep with a black Wrangler, don't forget where you parked. We did that this past summer - the VAST majority of Wranglers there were black and we walked up and down 5 aisles before we found ours! At least I won't have a problem with GiGi - I don't think I've ever seen another bright green one.
I am glad to hear that you are going to fulfil a long standing dream! You will LOVE that Jeep.
A couple things that come to mind that changed during the period from 99 to 02 are the distributorless ignition (at least I don't THINK they had that in 99) and the NV3550 manual tranny replaced the AX-15 late in the 2000 model year. You might want an auto tranny, since you will be in city traffic a lot.
As far as hard top vs. soft top, there are several things to consider. As Mac mentioned, you need a good place to store the hard top when it is off of the Jeep. That's one major consideration.
Also, will you have someone to help you take the hard top off and put it back on. Those puppies are HEAVY and awkward to handle. It's a job that you would NOT want to do every day or two. When you take the top off, you are going to want to leave it off for a long time, and vice versa.
The hard top works out fine for me, because I have a garage to keep the Jeep parked in on days when rain is in the forecast, and I have an alternate means of transportation to get to work. As a matter of fact, the Jeep is NOT my daily driver, although she sure sees a LOT of that duty in the summer when I have the top off.
I don't have the soft top, just the hard top. There have been times when I wished that I did have the soft top, but, overall, I am satisfied having the hard top only.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I had a great time, and the weather was terrific. It was in the 60's the whole time we were there. The scenery was beautiful, even though this is not a pretty time of year.
This pic shows a representative obstacle that one encounters on the trails. The trails are cut into the sides of mountains, so that adds a little "thrill" to the wheelin' (it's a LONG way down most places). Behind me as I took this pic was the edge of the trail. Trust me, you would not want to go over the edge.
We had a super good time, and no one got any trail damage. (Well, guess I had better inspect Thelma Jane's underside to be sure, because there were plenty of scary scraping and banging noises at times.)
Here's a scenery shot. This was taken right beside the Ocoee River. The road follows the river for a long ways. This is just a little feeder creek that dumps into the Ocoee just a few yards from this spot.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Can you find my Noble Black Steed (a black Wrangler) in this photo?
Steve, Host
I think that snow is photoshopped! j/k
I heard Tehachapi got quite a bit too... figures, once I leave, the snow falls... *sigh*
-Paul