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Jeep Wrangler



  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    The speedo/odo being off on so many vehicles with stock tires is interesting.

    When I had the stock 30" tires on my mileage would match what the SoCal Auto Club maps said - I could navigate without any problem (and it matched a couple of speedo check markers I took it through - haven't seen any of those in a couple of years, come to think of it). I still had the dash gauge problem when I put the Dueller AT tires on (also 30") and the odo wouldn't work long enough off-road to see if it was still accurate. The only time I've tried to navigate by it since I fixed the gauges, I wasn't using as accurate a guide and it appeared like the odo was off - I missed the turn because my odo said I hadn't gone far enough. Guess this is going to be a good excuse to get a GPS device!

    I haven't tracked my gas mileage recently (like since the dash gauge problem started being more off than on), but it seems like it is about the same as it has always been - about 20 mpg if there is no wind and I don't spend much time in the city or feel pressured to drive faster than 65. I have a 5 speed Sport.

    We're going to take the Wrangler into work - a friend of my husband is going to look at the AC. He said something about the H block. Does anyone know what that is - I'm totally clueless!
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Posts: 250
    Thanks for all the comments. I think I'm getting it that I just have to live with it. No more moaning about it.

  • gman1259gman1259 Posts: 209
    One more thing about using the new soft top cover use to roll the windows. I also kept the tube that came in the box the windows came in. I use it to roll the windows around.
  • drosketerdrosketer Posts: 203
    One more thing to chime in with (from what I have seen debated to no end elsewhere) - seems that the speedo and gearing for the Rubi models was modeled on 33" tires as opposed to the nearly 31" that come stock... While I haven't changed my tires to 33" or measured the difference with a GPS, others have. So, if you happen to be a rubi owner, you can rest assured that almost certainly you're going slower than what the speedo shows, and that your mileage is in fact worse than you may have calculated.

    On the bright side, you might not get as many speeding tickets. ;-)

  • drosketerdrosketer Posts: 203
    Unfortunately I wasn't thinking and chucked it... ah well, will get some soft cloth to go between all the windows when I put 'em in there.

  • guy21guy21 Posts: 129
    I have a 2004 X that has about 3,500 miles on it. Recently, I noticed a fairly loud ticking noise from the rear body area after first starting the vehicle in the morning. It is like a loud clock going "tic-toc" that lasts for about the first two blocks of driving and then goes away. At first I thought it might be related to the fuel pump. Today, while the ticking was present, the radio would cut out as well. Station indicator light would work, but speakers would cut out. Any ideas on these problems or if they are related?

    PS - Checked my odometer against the mileage markers on the freeway into town today. In 10 miles of driving, it was 0.1 mile short. 10 miles on the highway = 9.9 on the odometer.
  • gman1259gman1259 Posts: 209
    I use old (but clean) sheets between the windows. Seems to work fine. However, I think a felt cloth may be better.

  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Man, that noise is a mystery to me. Does the Jeep have to be moving in order to make that noise, or can you hear it when the Jeep is just idling?

    After only a couple blocks the noise goes away, and you don't hear it again until the next cold start?


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • guy21guy21 Posts: 129
    The noise occurs on cold starts in the morning whether the vehicle is standing still idling or moving. Like a loud wind up clock sounds. Today I got out, opened the tailgate and it seems to be coming from the area around or under the passanger side rear corner. Went away after a couple of minutes. No radio problems today.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    OK, it almost HAS to be your tail pipe vibrating against something. I can't think of anything else that could possibly make a noise in that area with the Jeep not even moving. Metal expansion may explain why the noise goes away after the tail pipe warms up.

    Try moving your tail pipe around a little when the noise is occurring. See if you can make the noise stop by getting the tail pipe in just the right position.

    Let us know how this turns out.


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?


    Just thought of something else... the fuel pump. It's in your gas tank, so that kind of goes along with where you think the sound comes from. Since you mentioned that radio problems go along with the noise (sometimes), it could be an electrical problem that effects the fuel pump.

    But, why would that go away when the engine warms up???? Still think the tail pipe is the culprit.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I believe, though I'm not certain, that the evap leak detection/purge pump is located in the rear passenger corner on late models. It will run a cycle at start up, then periodically thereafter. However, there's no connection between the pump cycling and the radio or speakers.
  • 99tj99tj Posts: 187
    Thanks Mac, I just searched and found your post (7047) about the air bag light intermittently coming on and tach and speedo going dead. Helpful info!

    One question; are TSBs recalls? I figure if I can get this fixed for free, I might as well take advantage of it.

    Thanks, Dan
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    TSBs are NOT recalls, unfortunately. I'll be wishing they were when my exhaust manifold eventually cracks. It drives you crazy when you go the dealership and they know instantly what the problem is. I had the "gauges go on-and-off" problem myself but I was "lucky" that it happened while I still had 6 months left on the warranty.
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    I had the dash gauge problem (well out of warranty) and it turned out to be very simple to fix - mine didn't require any parts, just some time. It also didn't cost me anything, except for the lunch I bought a friend of mine who held my hand and helped with the project. I figured that was an excellent investment (I won 2 ways - I got the dash gauges fixed and enjoyed my friends companionship for a day). The instructions you all referred me to worked and I haven't had any problems since.

    goducks1 - Good luck with the exhaust manifold - that was my most expensive repair so far.
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    I just know it's coming and it doesn't make me happy--a future repair that I can do nothing to prevent. Unless I can convince the dealership to do it for free (not likely) I'll put a Borla header on there to replace it. BTW, there's a class action lawsuit going on about this. Look around on the web.
  • freditfredit Posts: 8
    I have a 2004 "X" model with the same exact sound. I don't believe it's a tail pipe proplem. It definately sounds like a "pump" noise. It's only on start up then goes away. I think mac24 is on to something with the evac pump. I don't have the radio problems you've mentioned.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    On your gauges on/off issue, did it impact ALL gauges or just a particular few?

    My fuel gauge does it occasionally and was wondering if it was something easy (vs the sending unit in the tank itself).

    If it is the tank, I'll probably drop the tank, replace the sending unit and do the little mod to convert my tank to handle the 19 gallons it is actually designed for. If I gotta drop it, I'll do it all at the same time. :) Skid plate too.

  • barresa62barresa62 Posts: 1,379
    I plan on putting a 2"spacer lift on with 31x10.5" BFG A/T tires on stock Canyon rims in the near future. If I decided to go with 32x11.5" tires w/same lift and wheels would there be rubbing? Would I need to go with 3" lift then?

  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    The intermittent gauges thing affected ALL gauges--speedometer, tach, oil pressure, fuel gauge, etc. They're all on. Then suddenly they're all off. And then back on. I think it was limited to the '98 year though I'm not sure of that.
  • mtngalmtngal Posts: 1,911
    goducks is right - I either had all of the gauges or none of them with the air bag light would come on. Very annoying not to have an idea of how much fuel you had and no way to really judge it, because the odo didn't work either. Sometimes they would go out or come back on when I drove over a bump, but not always. Sometimes they would go out for a short period of time, and sometimes they would be out for several days.

    I, too, thought the problem was just with some of the '98s, but I could be wrong about that. I know the exhaust manifold problem was multiple years. Guess I'll have to look for the class action suit - I thought it was strange that there was a recall on the '97s but only a TSB for the manifold bolts on the '98.
  • 01r101r1 Posts: 280

    It might rub. Probably will under full compression, especially in the front when the wheels are turned all the way.

    I don't have the exact wheels as you on my 02 X, mine are the plain steel ones. I put 33"x10.50 BFG MT's on with a 2" spacer lift. I didn't like the rubbing when I turned the front wheels all the way, so I use aluminum wheel spacers between my front wheels and their mounting surface. The back rubbed only under full compression and it was only minor. 32's might not rub at all back there.

    Then I got longer shocks and sway bar quick disconnects. The increased articulation in the front caused rubbing on the top of the fender that I hadn't seen before. That made me do a 2" body lift. Everything is fine now.

    I know you're not talking about 33's, but 32's and an inch wider will be close to what I experienced.

  • barresa62barresa62 Posts: 1,379
    Would be a bit less possibility of rubbing if I went with 32x10.5 instead of 11.5 & only did the 2"spacer lift?

  • 99tj99tj Posts: 187
    Mine is a '99 and just my tach and speedo go out.
    I plan on following MACs instructions.

    Is it safe to Assume that the manifold issue affects 99's also?
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591

    Last I heard you do no serious offroading. Is that still true?

    As long as you don't disconnect your front sway bar, which is commonly done for moderate to extreme offroading, the tires should not rub the flares with a two inch spacer lift and 32" diameter tires. A bone stock TJ will accommodate 31 x 10.50 tires.

    It's possible that you could even disco, if you are willing to have just a small rub.

    Your bigger worry is going to be rubbing on the spring perches in the rear and on your lower control arms up front when the steering wheel is at full turn. Those Canyon wheels have a LOT of backspacing, 5.5" to be exact.

    You should mount tires no wider than 10.50" on those Canyon wheels. I'm not sure that anyone makes a 32" tire in the 10.50" width. Maybe someone does, but it would not be a common size that could be easily found.

    Pete got away with the wider tires because he installed wheel spacers. Those things mount to you existing hubs and effectively reduce the backspacing of the wheels.

    There is a big debate over how safe and reliable wheel spacers are, and there are some that are definitely risky. Obviously, Pete found some that he has confidence in, so you oughta let him tell you what he has and where he got 'em.


    As you can see from the diagram above, more backspacing pulls the tire in closer to the frame, and less backspacing pushes the tire outward from the frame. The large amount of backspacing of the Canyon rims limits the width of tire you can use to 10.50," unless a wheel spacer is used.

    Hope this helps.


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?


    Some people even have a little trouble with rubbing on the lower control arms at full wheel turn with 10.50" tires on Canyons. It's an easy fix by adding some washers behind the steering stops. It limits your turning, but not enough to worry about. I did not have to do that on Thelma Jane when she had 10.50" tires on her Canyon wheels, but some people do.
  • fairviewfairview Posts: 20
    I had the fuel guage problem too, and ran across the solution on another board. The problem is with a plug at the left front corner of the tank. As I understand the membership agreement, I can't post the name of that board, but if you send me an email, I can tell you how to find it. If I am off base here, someone please correct me. This is my first posting and I don't want to get off to a bad start.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591

    I think you handled that just right. Steve and Tidester (our hosts) will be proud of you! :)

    Glad to have you with us, and I hope you will be a frequent poster.


    Have you hugged your Jeep today?

    P.S. It shows in your profile that your email addy is private. (You invited erickpl to email you.)
  • gretagreta Posts: 23
    Question # 1: I'm just wondering why there is so very little air coming in naturally thru the 7 little intake slots on top of the hood, just below the center of the windshield, and then finally into the interior of the passenger area?

    Actually, I did just look under the hood to find a narrow black pipe going up along the firewall, into that screened vent at the rear of the hood. Looking down into the screened vent, I can see an extremely small opening, which I assume is that black pipe coming from below. How could Jeep have thought that that was enough of a fresh air intake? The spongy end of that upwardly mounted pipe seems like it will dry rot and flake away quickly, then there will be even less of a connection to the outer air.

    I guess I'm just wondering, Question # 2: if anyone else has gone to the extent of adding the aftermarket Air Scoop to cover the 7 little intake slots. (Three or four versions are sold on for the Wrangler.) They look like they would scoop in a whole lot of air.

    Then one might wonder, Question # 3: is there is anyway to access that black pipe on the firewall, to clean it out?

    Thanks for any advice. greta
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    #1: Are you saying that you have an inadequate volume of fresh air entering the Jeep? Or, that it looks to you as if an adequate volume couldn't possibly enter? For what it's worth, I've never heard anything but praise for the Wrangler's HVAC system (except when it's broken). It certainly supplies sufficient volume and pressure to inflate the soft top and prevent flapping at speed. I've no knowledge of the pipe connector succumbing to dry rot and flaking away.

    #2: The base of the windshield is a turbulent high pressure area. The scoop should be fitted with its opening toward the windshield or it will reduce the efficiency of the intake. Correct instructions are supplied with scoop. They're usually bought for looks rather than efficiency.

    #3: Any debris that might accumulate in plenum can be removed with a garden hose. Direct it in through the cowl slots and the pressure will open the rubber drain valve.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    My 1999 Sahara had the same problem. It's a simple fix however-30 minutes tops.
  • jstjst Posts: 8
    You comment that you will do a mod so that your gas tank will hold an actual 19 gallons of gas...can you elaborate....what is preventing servicing the tank with a full 19 gallons? I have not heard of this before. Does this situation impact all Wrangler TJs...(mine is a '99 Sport)...thanks...JST
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