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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • bstrandbbstrandb Posts: 12
    I'm interested in replacing the factory fog lights on a 2001 Suburban with PIAA 980 dual lamps. Has anyone installed these? Did you run into any problems?
    Based on the dimensions shown on the PIAA web site, the lamps will fit the opening in bumper. I'd like to use the factory fog light switch to operate the fog light half of the PIAAs and add a second switch for the driving light half. Is it possible to place another factory fog light switch in the blank panel above the regular switch? Or perhaps a cargo lamp switch from a Silverado?

    Any help/ideas on installation and wiring would be appreciated.
  • viperrulz:

    I installed the headlight relay (ID #1259) from R&D Truck & Auto Accessories.

    I ordered the upgrade special which also includes a foglight controller and a door unlock controller. They were all easy to install and work perfectly.


  • viperrulzviperrulz Posts: 17
    Was it just basically a plug and go installation? I really don't want to do any splicing... Thx for the quick response, btw.
  • araftcoaraftco Posts: 23
    I also installed the quad headlight relay from R&D and the installation is very simple and straightforward. You simply crimp into the existing wires with no true "splicing" of the wires. You don't even need tools.

    Another thing to check out at R&D is the automatic door unlock. My DXL unlocked only when you took the keys out of the ignition and the relay from R&D changes that to unlocking when you put the vehicle in PARK. Makes much more sense.
  • subliminalsubliminal Posts: 29
    The seat belts still move in the chest area. They can be manually locked for child seat installation, but otherwise function as any other seat belt I have had in 25 years.

    They do seem a bit more "sensitive" than others I have had. When leaning forward they seem to "lock" easier than other vehicles. Some have found this to be a pain. Leaning back a little then resuming your forward lean gets them moving again. I personally find it reassuring. The belts in my old Dodge never locked up and I often wondered if they would in an accident.

    (Matt D)
  • Has anyone seen a picture of the 2002 models?
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    I had the same concern about the seat mounted belts versus the B-pillar mounting on my 1992 Suburban. At 6'3" I was definitely concerned that the seat belts on the new Denali XLs would be intolerable. After 4 months I can honestly tell you they are comfortable and I can't even remember what the previous belts were like. Took about a month to get used to. Unfortunately it is a two hand maneuver to put on the belt where the previous design could be engaged with one hand.

    I also installed the 3 relays (quads, fogs and locks) from the R&D site above. It is definitely worth installing and quite easy, takes about an hour and a half. No wire cutting. You won't be disappointed.
  • viperrulz:

    No splicing. Simply crimping wires together. Very easy, very clean install.

  • hooopshooops Posts: 64
    I have 2000 Suburban (1500 LT, leather, power, roof, etc) with approx.
    11000 miles.

    I like it a lot more than the Expedition I use to have, but I've had a
    problem with the rear passenger windows. I have brought the car in for
    service at least 3 times to correct the problem. I've been told it's the
    motor in the window. I've also had problems with the radio/clock,
    where it periodically gets reset to the default settings.

    Today the right rear passenger window went out again. I plan on
    bringing it back again tomorrow.

    Is anyone else experiencing this type of problems ?

    Since the windows have been in for service 3-4 times, does this
    qualify under the lemon law ?

  • subliminalsubliminal Posts: 29
    There is a Tech Servce Bulletin on this that your dealer should be able to retrieve. It states the rear window motors (regulators?) must be replaced. If they haven't done this that is the problem. If they have, they may have gotten the wrong/older parts or used parts from a local distributor that were old.

    Personally I think invoking the lemon law for power window failure is a little extreme. This is a problem that can be fixed.

  • cwindgocwindgo Posts: 3
    My turn to finally give my stats. I had intended to brag upon delivery, but never took the time.

    I began to look around late March intending to order a new XL or Burb for the Summer. I then discovered several discounts & rebates that prompted me to purchase right away. I did my homework, researched all the options, reviewed all the posts here (THANKS!), pulled all the purchase info from Edmunds and KBB and then set out to look at colors and options with the family. We wanted a full dress, all options vehicle, I think it was the 1SC pkg- leather, memory seats, onstar, climate control etc. My wife kept leaning to the XL looks and that became our focus.

    White Yukon XL, 2WD, fully loaded, upgraded wheels, 5.3 liter, 3.73 rear axle, tow, etc. etc.

    Here's the net of my deal. (Southern California)
    '01 Yukon XL at $400 over invoice. Approx $35,900.
    Customer loyalty discount $1,000.
    Aouto show area discount $1,000.
    GM Mastercard points $2,000.

    I had found there was a price increase March 1, 2001, by $365 on the configuration we wanted. I found this by asking for copies of the invoice from the dealers, and found price discrepancies. The fleet managers I was calling didn't even have a clue until one fleet mgr was comparing the invoice of the vehicle he had on his lot to a new delivery. Costa Mesa GMC matched my best price of $400 over invoice, however, I insisted they find the vehicle at "OLD" invoice (invoiced prior to March 1), thereby netting a price of $45 over the current invoice. The kicker to go with Costa Mesa GMC was they threw in "LIFETIME" Oil & Filter changes and Lifetime carwashes. With my wife's office only a few miles away, I figure that could easily add up to over $700 in bonus savings.

    With my "Fuzzy Math" and GM card points, I ended up at better than $4,000 below invoice.

    My wife loves it and has laid claim to it. I don't get to drive it unless it's weekends or vacation. She gave up her 540 BMW for it. I'd rather have that than her being afraid of it.

    Mileage: City around 16mpg.
    Hwy best has been 18.8 mpg.

    By the way, tried Internet companies, did better on our own. Internet will generally give a fair deal and no fuss, no muss. I saved at least an extra $1,000 over the best Internet Service.

    Last Note: I wish I could have bought from Brad at Boulavard GMC in Signal Hill, GREAT GUY!! Costa Mesa threw in extras and close to wife's office.

    Sorry for being so long. I appreciate all the help, input and dialogue from this forum.
  • sb55sb55 On an Island in VermontPosts: 503
    I just picked up a 2001 Yukon XL. It's a WAY better ride than my '95.
    Anyway, we have climate control since there is no sunroof. According to the owner's manual if both the fan and mode switches are in 'Auto', the I shouldn't have to turn on the A/C button to get cold air. It will not blow cold unless I push the button. Do I have a problem? or is this normal?

    Also, does anyone know if this comes standard with the weight carrying or weight equalizing hitch. Both stickers are on the hitch, but it does not say in the owners manual and the dealer has no idea.

    Thanks for the reply.

    2007 Miata PRHT, 2014 BMW 535d X-drive, 2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Ext. cab with 6.2 V-8

  • rtgclurtgclu Posts: 7
    Believe I have read on this board that dealers will replace factory Firestones for Michelins? Is this accurate? Has the NTSB implicated tires being used on XLs as those with tread separation? Please confirm. Separately, anyone with experience with infant or child safety or booster seats on the 2nd row buckets? We're considering buckets, however had had success with 2nd row bench on our 96 Burb. Thanks
  • both our 2nd row buckets currently have baby seats in them. Both front facing, (w/ a rear facing infant seat in the 3rd row) each a different brand and we've had no problems. both are anchored with seat belts and the top straps that I've slipped under the headrest and down the back of the seats to a clip that is close to the floor on the back of the seat. Previously these seats lived in a volvo station wagon, I think the burb is a better install. One plus is that since the seats recline, we've found it easier to adjust the seats so that when the kids nod off their heads don't bob foward with their chins on their chests. Still had to use plenty of rolled up towels to get a perfect fit however. Another cool thing we found was a seat protector from a baby catalog which goes between the kids seat and the leather of the car seat. It also adds a mesh net storage pouch and has worked great. Good luck....
  • lucnoellucnoel Posts: 31
    I have a 2001 yukon xl and bought a relay made by KC lights.
    I did not like it at all for the following reason.
    Those trucks are ground (negatif)switched and use very small, must be gauge 18 wires, to the headlights.
    The relay that I got, relay is a wrong term since I opened this little box and the only thing inside was 2 diodes.
    The way it worked was , when you turn your high beams on, to use the negatif, ground from it to feed it to the side of the low beams wiring that now was positif.
    Very bad idea for 2 reasons.
    those wires are way too small to carry twice the amperage that they were designed for and consequently they heat up and your low beams are not as bright than they should be.
    It is easy to check,put the switch in low beam and use the flash to pass lever,( in this mode the factory design turn the 4 lights on)if the low beams are brighter than with the "relay" on,you have a problem.

    Also the 2 wires to each light, high and low reverse polarity when you turn this light on.
    In another world the positif become negatif and the negatif become positif.
    If you have this problem, I can tell you what I did to my truck to sole it.
  • subliminalsubliminal Posts: 29
    When the system is in full auto mode, the AC light should be lit all the time (except below 40 F outside temp.

    If you turn off the AC button in auto mode (which you can...override) it will stay overridden until you reset auto mode. Meaning you will have to manually turn onthe AC by the button. (at least that's how my 2K K2500 burb works).

    To reset to full auto, put the fan knob to auto and cycle the vent knob to anywhere (floor, bilevel etc) and back to auto. When you do this you should notice the fresh/recirc button lights go out and the AC light come on (as long as it's over 40 degrees F).

    Enjoy the new ride.

  • gztalkgztalk Posts: 1
    I bought a brand new 2001 yukon xl in april of 2001, at 3000 miles I gave it its first oil change.what came out of the engine was black and sludge like. the truck now has 6400 miles on it and its burning a quart of oil for every 600 to 700 miles of the mornings when I start it up, there is blue smoke coming out of the taipipe for a few seconds.I took it back to the dealer, and the service department topped off the engine with a quart of oil and instructed me to bring it back whenever its question is should I let the dealer open this engine ,or should I go with the New Jersey lemon law. by the way the oil is already black again.
  • lumpmanlumpman Posts: 7
    Have a 2001 Chev Sub 1500. Anybody had trouble with the exhaust system popping? I'm talking loud popping. When you come to a stop once warm, it's like rice krispies gone mad. I'm just prior to 6000 mi, and I was hoping once broken in, it would disappear. However, it's hanging around with no hint of surrender.

    Haven't been to the dealer yet because of time constraints. Would like to get armed before doing so.
  • gghuskergghusker Posts: 7
    My 2001 Yukon XL with 11500 miles on it developed an annoying squeaky rattle on the driver's side a few thousand miles ago. It doesn't seem to be coming from the dash area - more along the side. My XL is otherwise a fantastic vehicle - I love it. It just seems that a vehicle this nice shouldn't have such a problem at such low mileage. Anyone had a similar problem and what was your solution. I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!
  • lecrumleylecrumley Posts: 1
    Our 3/4 ton Yukon XL was rear-ended smack on the heavy Class IV receiver hitch. We were surprised that the hitch was bent down alot and when we looked underneath, the left and right frame ends were bent down. Since we haul a 32ft Travel Trailer, my concern is about the repair job. Should we have the area where the frame buckled reinforced? Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    I hope no one was injured!

    I'm curious as to why were you surprised that the hitch bent down? That's a good thing! It dissipated the crash energy that would otherwise be transfered to the passengers, and it probably prevented a good amount of damage to your rear bumper. A competent body shop should be able to replace the rear frame crossmember so that it's as good as new. On the same token, I personally wouldn't re-inforce it past the original specs simply since, once again, if it may not crumple the way its supposed to in an accident so as to dissipate the energy from the crash.

    Good luck,

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • rdtaylorrdtaylor Posts: 21
    Power windows

    Probably 100% of the MY2000 and early MY2001 rear power windows will fail eventually. They have since been improved. One of mine failed and when I took it in they replaced BOTH rear window motor assemblies - GM is telling their dealers to replace BOTH of them when either one fails - if you ask they might replace them even if they are still working (or just tell them that one is "intermittent" - which is probably true, even if you haven't noticed it yet). The trick is to be sure that they use the redesigned parts (not old stock of the defective assemblies).

    Crank sensor

    Also, it appears that 100% of the crankshaft sensors on the early 2001 8.1L motors will also fail. This is a $40 part than can cause much grief - the engine computer does not report the problem until it gets really bad (to the point of engine failure). If you've notice any funny behavior (e.g. a slight hesitation during full throttle shifts, hiccups, stalls, any difficulty starting), you might want to have the dealer check the computer for CKP (crank position) codes. I don't understand why GM hasn't recalled all of the early 8.1L vehicles and replaced their sensors - unlike the power window problem, this problem results in intermittent engine failures that could be a safety issue (unexpected loss of steering/braking power, stall in an intersection or congested area, stranded somewhere, etc).

    I got to experience the "limp home" mode when the crank sensor finally had a hard failure - the engine runs very roughly on half of the cylinders at 1000-1500rpm. It ignores the throttle (at least on the 8.1L - I'm not sure what the mechanical-linkage motors do). It will eventually get up to 20mph on flat ground (1500rpm). The display on the dash says "reduced engine power" - that is an understatement. I was glad that it failed on paved roads - just a few days earlier I was on 4x4 roads (I wonder if GMC "roadside assistance" is provided on 4-low BLM trails?).

    Anyway, since the third crankshaft sensor has been installed, I have not experienced any of the slight hesitations that I previously experienced from time-to-time (and it also fixed the recent flurry of stalls, starting difficulties, and transmission malfunctions). The first two sensors were from the early production lots - the dealer was fairly confident thet the sensors from more recent production are more reliable?
  • rhanson3rhanson3 Posts: 69
    I just noticed this over the weekend. When I pull the flash to pass lever the light is significantly brighter than when my Quad lights are on. What can I do to fix this problem? The flash to pass light was great, thats what I would like to see. Thanks
  • jcj45jcj45 Posts: 1
    Considering replacing 2001 Navigator with 2001 Yukon XL; carry six adults; need more space for gear in back. No snow; no towing so considering 2W. Read post on milage but not sure if 2W or 4W. Please advise real world milage to expect on Yukon XL 2W and best engine/rear ratio combo.
  • dfwk2500dfwk2500 Posts: 68
    Just had some slight damage to the rear of our 01 3/4 ton YXL. Although there was no frame damage, in tearing off around the bumper there appeared to be a bolted on frame extension before the bumper is attached. If that is bent, I think it can simply be replaced. Otherwise, I have seen new pickups have the same problem and essentially bend in the middle. What the local GMC body shop did was order an entirely new frame and just transfer the body and equipment over to the new frame. Don't know how involved it is, but if you frequently tow and are concerned about the stability of any repairs, you might inquire about whether that is feasible. I don't know what, if any problems, might be encountered with a frame swap, but I bet if you drove around the back of your local dealer's body shop you will likely see one or two new frames still in the shipping crates waiting for just such a repair, and can probably ask them. There is a local Chevrolet dealer that did extensive repairs on our 94 Suburban (45 days worth) and every few days I went by to check on the progress they had at least one new, in the crate, frame sitting out back.
  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    Yukon XL - 5.3L engine with 3.73 rear end, 2 wheel drive. Should get you 18 mpg highway. Load gear inside without using the roof rack to save on wind drag. You'll be coasting at 65, enjoying the scenery and getting good enough mileage. The Navigator gets a couple of mpg more than a Suburban/Yukon XL. What are you getting now? I assume yours is a 5.4L. With 6 and gear, that will be getting 108 passenger miles per gallon.
  • kachurpkachurp Posts: 2
    What is the real-world mileage (City/Highway) you can expect on the 1500 2001 Burb? I've heard about an after-market air filter, does it work? Are there other after-market products that improve gas mileage?
  • lucnoellucnoel Posts: 31
    First,get rid of the piece of crap that they sold you.

    You need to buy a 12V relay.
    if it had 4 prongs they will be marked:

    If it had 5 prongs,you will also have a 87a.
    doesn't matter which one you get, just don't use the 87a prong.
    On the driver side headlight,you will find 2 wires,yellow and orange for the low beam and 2 wires,purple and orange for the high beam.
    You need to connect # 30 with an inline fuse(15/20Amps)to a GOOD ground.(frame is the easiest)
    # 85 is also connected to the same ground,use a screw/bolt on the frame,but with no fuse.
    # 86 need to be connected to the ORANGE wire of the high beam
    # 87 go to the yellow wire on the low beam.

    That is the simplest way to do it.

    The way it work is that when you turn the high beam on,#86 receive + and close the relay.
    When the relay is closed,you have continuity between #30 and # 87 and consequently,the - negatif from the frame is directed to the yellow wire of the low beam.

    Just because I am a perfectionist, I did run 2 wires with inline diodes (one way switch for electrical current)from #87.
    one go to the driver side low beam and the other one go all the way to the passenger side yellow wire on next to the low beam plug.
    The reason for that is that the yellow wire is very small and i didn't wanted it to carry the juice for 2 low beam lights.
    With this system, the low beam will be "factory" bright.
  • sdharveysdharvey Posts: 2
    I'm sure I already know the answer to this, but thought I'd check with the smart people on this list.

    Have a 2001 Yukon XL 1500 SLT, and recently got a new Nokia 8260 phone. Really like it, but reception is not better than my old one, which was half my reason for getting the new one.

    Nokia does not offer a "hardwired" car kit - cradle, charger, wired through stereo, etc., but most importantly an external antenna. They have a hokey cigarette lighter adapter, which I've heard from various people is not worth the money.

    Is it possible to connect my Nokia phone to the OnStar antenna in any way? Just the reception increase would be worth it for me, even if it costs a decent amount. Otherwise, does anyone know of any aftermarket car kits for this phone? If not, any thoughts on trying to have a second external antenna installed? (Outside of the fact that it would look kind of stupid...)

    Thanks in advance.

  • circutmanncircutmann Posts: 40
    I also am not pleased w/ that piece of crap from KC. I have always thought that this KC module is adding a lot of extra current load to an already undersized wire on the high beam circuit.
    Is there any way to utilize the (2) diodes in that KC module, or did you buy (2) new ones?
    If new, where did you get them, & the relay? What are the current (amps) spec's on the diodes & spec's on the relay you chose? I've been contemplating doing just what you did, but just have not found the time to sit down & plan it as you did! Thanks for your help! Dave
  • lucnoellucnoel Posts: 31

    I got the parts from RadioShack, web site""

    6 Amps rectifier Diode. Pkg of 4 $ 2.29
    Part # 276-1653

    Relay 30Amps 12V $ 5.99
    Part # 275-226.

    Remember to put the Diodes correctly, you need to cut both low beams yellow wires close to the headlamp and put the diode in line with the cutted wire making sure of the direction of the diode.
    By the way, thoses diodes are exactly the SAME than the 2 in the KC box.
    Don't you think that the KC fake relay/electronic module is a rip-off?
    Diodes are designed to let go through only the negatif on one side and the positif on the other side.
    In another word you want the negatif from the truck electrical,(thoses lights are negatif switched)to be able to go through the diode when you are in low beam.
  • rickhessrickhess Posts: 18
    I have been monitoring a 1-2 drip per day oil leak under my 2001, ¾ T, Sub w/ 8.1 L for the past few days. I got bold today and shimmied under the running boards to see if I could spot the source. I saw a drop formed on the bottom of the oil filter. I grabbed the filter and it was loose. I was able to rotate it ¼ to ½ turn before it snugged up. I thought I had solved the problem. I took it for a spin and parked over a clean paper bag. Within an hour a drop had hit the bag and another had formed on the bottom of the filter.

    When I attempted to tighten the filter, I did so from an awkward position and was not able to put much torque on it. I suppose that if I positioned myself better, I could tighten it some more by hand. How tight should a filter be? Can I over-tighten it by hand? Apparently the mechanic at the dealer who changes my oil/filter does not think it has to be very tight at all. All comments are welcomed.
  • undec01undec01 Posts: 1
    Looking into purchasing a Sub. Saw back in Feb a lot of talk about the cold air problem on the passenger side. Has there been a fix? Also is there any other major problems that are occurring with the Sub. It seems in general that everyone is pretty happy.
  • jj655jj655 Posts: 8
    Just bought a loaded XL,1500,(6/01) with every option. MSRP 44,500. Details>.. dealer took 6500 off plus my 4100 GM Card , and 1,000 college grad, and 1.9% on the balance. Yes I feel good about the deal. (Salinas, Calif).

    1. Steering wheel is not on straight, even after going to the dealer for repair. So has to go back again.
    2. Hood not on straight, (almost rubbing on one side). Dealer tried to fix but only put 8" crease in the side of the hood.. now needs official body work. So has to go back again.
    3. Cut on the interior plastic driver door panel. Dealer got replacement part, but the new one came with a cut on it, so has to go back again.
    4. Could not figure out how to get the middle headrest off. The dealer (sales&service) and manual does not state. Finally the car wash guy at the dealer used a paper clip, and with the paper clip, showed us how to take the headrest off.
    5. HOME LINK DOES NOT WORK. I have a newer Genie electric garage door opener that I bought at HOME DEPOT, and the rotating codes do not work the the HOME LINK system. The manual says to bring it into the dealership, but they say it won't work. Any suggestions?????????

    Fit and finish seems only , Yukon AL was made in Mexico. Am I just to picky? Or is this the way these trucks are?

    It rides great, feels solid.

    Guess I will be buying extended warranty.
  • campo57campo57 Posts: 94
    In order to get the Homelink to work with the rolling the manual again. I don't have it with me but if you go here:

    it should answer your question.

    Good Luck.


  • everharteverhart Posts: 59
    No your not to picky, but I don't think you have a lemon. What you have is a incompetent Dealer & Service dept. Sounds like their a bunch of idiots!
  • don4341don4341 Posts: 69
    Just for kicks sent E-mail to Nokia requesting a method to connect a 8260 to an external antenna. Quick answer came back - we don't have a way to do that.
    Went to
    They show a picture for a external antenna but for use with a 8210/8290 cell phone only.
    Would it be practical to trade out your new cell for one of the above models? Go back to your Cell Shop and compare the cells. Some may have an external antenna jack.
    Before doing this I would investigate the new very short cell antennas by Antenna Specialist. Like they are using as a roof mount on the new Chev. trucks.
    The antenna they pictured would likely do a good job but it is long and you may not have clearance in your garage. Just a few thoughts on your conversion.
    Last item - if you are not using the OnStar radio that antenna could probably be made to work IF the cell has an external coaxial jack on it. I don`t. think yours does.
    Hope this is not as clear as mud.
  • rdtaylorrdtaylor Posts: 21
    Tighten it about 3/4 to 1 turn after the gasket seats. If it leaks, tighten it a bit more. Overtightening it just makes it hard to remove - I doubt you can strip it out by hand unless you are a lot stronger than I am.
  • whatever7whatever7 Posts: 19
    I had a similar oil leak on a 8.1 liter. The main difference was that it leaked signifcantly more but it came from right near the oil filter. It was not the oil filter however. It turned out to be the oil cooler line that had faulty weld and it turned into a mojo leak where I had the vehicle towed back to be fixed. I would make sure that the leak is coming from the filter and not some where else.
  • larsonemlarsonem Posts: 7
    Why monkey with building a headlight relay for a "quad" system. Visit the R & D site and purchase one as so many others have recommended. The one they sent me arrived in a few days and installed quickly on my 2001 Tahoe with very detailed instructions. Much simpler than building my own with relays, wire and a fuse holder like I did on my 99 Tahoe.
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Check out Criterion Cellular. They sell external antennas, as well as antenna adapter kits that plug directly to your cellphone without requiring a booster or special kit. I've been meaning to do this for my own phone, but have been procrastinating ;-p. If you can't find what you need, try phoning them

    Let us know how it goes!

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • lucnoellucnoel Posts: 31
    Since I havn't see the R&D,I can't have an opinion on it.
    The only thing that I know,beside the fact that the KC module is a piece of crap,is that ANY relay/module that use the very small wires(18 gauge)going to the headlamps as a power source to supply voltage to the low beams when the high beams are on, is a BAD design.
    Electrical wires are sized depending on the load,(Amperes) that they are designed to carry.
    You calculate Amps by dividing the wattage,( let say 45 watts per low beam bulb)by the voltage(12V)
    in the case of the truck.
    So each low beam bulb draw about 3.75 Amps.
    In this case you are aking a wire that was designed,(sized) to carry the Amperage for 1 bulb,to carry the Amperage for 3.
    What happen in this case?
    It's like trying to put 1/2 inch bolt into a 1/4 inch nut,it is not going to go through.
    Resistance is created and the wire get hot.
    Where do the power source on the R&D come from?
    Did you try the simple test of pulling the flash to pass lever when you are on low beams?
    Are you low beams as bright when you are in high beams than with the flash to pass?
  • mulekickmulekick Posts: 2
    I recently sold a 92 Burb to CarMax and was interested in buying another one. I wanted to know if I could still qualify for the $1000 owner loyalty rebate and , if so, what type of documentation is need to receive it? I understand it expires soon (June 30th?). I'm planning to buy one this weekend. Thanks for a quick response.
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    looking to do a deal on a white Z71 Subn.. found the one I'm looking for but it has 4.10 rear... my wife has a new Black '01 Subn 4x4LT w/ 3.73 rear...

    does anyone have any info on what the difference in gas mileage would be or if any other problems with the 4.10 gears.. don't need to tow anything large so don't really need the 4.10

    got to do the deal by this Sat to use my $1k loyalty rebate again( also used it on my wife's) as that's the last day.. also have to take advantage of Lease Incentive Program.. old lease on my '99 Subn gets wiped penalties.. plus all payments remaining (8) are gone..

    I called Chevy Incentives # at 1-800-950-2438.. all they said on a couple of different phone calls.. that there would most likely be new loyalty rebates.. but not yet in writing .. whatever that means.. so 6/30 remains as last day...

    anyone hear about any other Incentives coming up..???
  • mulekickmulekick Posts: 2
    I am planning to buy a new 01 Burb 1500 2WD LT from Marchant Chev. in Ravenal SC this weekend. They've offered it at $98 over invoice less $1000 dealer cash and $1000 owners loyalty rebate (if I qualify) bringing the grand total to $34,031.69 including sales tax, tag, etc. (MSRP of $40,603). This sounds like a pretty good deal. I'm looking for some feedback fron other recent purchasers as to how this all-in price stacks up. P.S. I'd prefer to purchase it in the Atlanta- Metro area but the dealerships don't seem to be as competitive. Any thoughts?
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    I used my $1K Loyalty coupon recently on my wife's ne '01 Subn.. can be used again ..

    no coupon is needed according to Chevy but you then have to show a registration or some type of current ownership of a Subn or Tahoe to get it.. here's what the coupon looks like.. ... also at message # 692 my post..

    good luck

  • larrys7larrys7 Posts: 35
    Just received an email from GM on Yukons. . . . FYI
    An additional $1,000 on top of any other incentives already offered - 7/1/01-9/30/01.
    **Note an exclusive offer code did appear on my email**
    Says to print it & contact local GM dealer for details.
    That is on top the $1,000 loyalty refund.
    A deal. Wish I could have got that 4 months ago.
    That makes me want to sell my 01 YDXL with only 1900 miles. Just to see if it works and purchase a 2002.
  • This may be too good to be true? I have a Yukon XL being held for me in Kennesaw, GA. My 99 was totalled and I've been told by the dealership that Loyalty money of $1,000 goes away on 7/2/01.
    We're leaving today for family reunion and have arranged to purchase over the phone but need to know if this is true! How do I get the code for the extra 1,000?
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    the $1K Loyalty Coupon is good right now for BOTH GMC and Chevy Subn, Tahoes, GMC Yukon, Yukon XL .. it ends JUNE 30th Sat... you DON"T need this coupon per se only have to show proof like a registration that you own a Subn, Tahoe, YK, YKXL

     there is anotherDEALER CASH INCENTIVE of $1K that some dealers are passing along to their customers.. that's the one that ends JULY 2 go to this link on Edmunds at and put in your state..then follow instructions.. or go to for the Southeast Region

  • geis3geis3 Posts: 3
    I really appreciate this forum. Helps when discussing issues with the dealer.

    I have a 01 Burb. So far love it. No major issues. Do have a few questions for the group:

    1 - squeaky metal noise on driver door when opening/closing - not hinge related, but something inside with the door stop? Any guesses on how to check without taking to dealer?

    2 - Saw earlier post on air flow noises on front door seals. I have the same, more so on driver's door. Is this something we just live with? No seals appear to be worn or torn.

    3 - Rear suspension - slightly lower on left rear (about 1-2". Is this an issue of when the vehicle's suspension was compressed during transport from the factory? Is it easily fixed?

    Thanks for the input.

    Oh, I just subscribed to the ONSTAR Personal Communication Service (cell phone) They offer 30min free trial. I thought maybe with all the hands free legislation coming down I would check out the systems capabilities before going out an purchasing more gadgets.

    It would be great to hear from anyone who has already tried it.

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