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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    I assume that you have a 4.10 rear end with upgrade 245 to 265 tires to get to the 3.93 rear end. I have the same arrangement. I have not pulled my 8000 LB boat in any kind of hilly country, but pulling in flat land Florida, I am disappointed in the 6.0 performance. I can compare it to my 97 Tahoe, 350 with a 3.42 rear end and 235 tires. In third gear, I had good power and much better gas consumption pulling the same boat and not pulling. I think the gas consumption with the 6.0, around town not pulling, is awful. About 6 to 7 MPG. The engine seems to over rev just to get moving, not pulling and going up the ramp with a boat, really turning up the RPM's it sounds like it won't make it. The truck feels secure, and handles the boat well under way better than the 1/2 ton Tahoe. Part of my problem was the change from 245 to 265 tires, that should be in the range of this power train. I could feel a substantial loss of power in overdrive, which I would like to be in while towing, on flat land anyhow. Before the tire change, I was staying in OD over most overpasses, but now it jumps back to drive much quicker. All of this is compounded by not being able to get into overdrive till the speedometer is up to 55 MPH. I debated on a 3.73 rear end, when shopping for the truck. Thank God I didn't go that route, or I would have been in trouble. The speedometer error is 4 % low, so I have to get it up to GPS 57.5 in order to get back into overdrive, sometimes hard to do in 2 lane traffic. Like you say, the engine is performing under towing conditions, but at high RPM's and sucking up the gas. It seems strange to me that with a computer on board, that a 4 % error would be acceptable on a transmission that shifts precisely at 55 MPH. I don't think the service people understand how to adjust the speedometer with the Tech 2 device. (three attempts and no change in the error at all.) I assume you have a 3/4 ton as this is the only way to get the 6.0 engine. My friends Diesel Excursion is looking better all the time. Cost is less, mileage much better and plenty of room. Skipjack 2
  • subliminalsubliminal Posts: 29
    Did I read correctly? You are getting 6 - 7 mpg around town while NOT towing?

    If this is true, I think you have a serious problem. I am getting 13 - 14 around town in mine. 2000 K2500 3.73/6.0 litre 265/75/16 tires.

    Subliminal
  • rng2001rng2001 Posts: 1
    Has anyone experienced alignment problem with a suburban. My 1999 Suburban LT 2WD has continual problems with the alignment. It was slight problem and continued to worsen. I have the alignment done by dealship (I have to pay since the warranty only covered til 7000 miles) at 16,000 miles. At 21,000 miles, my other front tire has the outside track worn out again. I was told that I have to pay for alignment again if I bring the car back to the dealership. There is no warranty on alignment at all. Anyone has similar problems? I would like to hear and report to Chevrolet. By the way, Chevrolet's customer service was no help at all. They stick by the rule and tell me to check my owners's manual. What a difference in customer service as compared to other foreign car manufacturers such as Acura, Honda, etc.

    Rick
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    I am going that route now. My email to "Customer assistance" reguarding the speeometer error was refered back to me with the advice that I should call "customer assistance". After a long wait for a human voice, I was told that I would have to go back to the dealer. (been back three times) Finally told to go to the web site and send an email to "power train" and it would go to tech assistance, the only way. I couldn't find "power train" on the GM site, so I addressed an email that way. Now I will wait and see if it makes it or bounces back. Skipjack 2
  • chris193chris193 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 YUKON XL, 4WD with 16,000 miles. The driver side mirror and the passenger seat shake significantly at highway speed. The dealer replaced the tires twice - Firestone. Nevertheless, the problem has not gone away. Has anybody experienced the same? Any recommendations?

    Thanks
  • moss6moss6 Posts: 12
    Skipjack,
    Yes the tires are the 265's and the gearing is 4.10. As for the power issue I am now wondering if one of the engine's main problems aside from the computer program is the camshaft. I'll bet that GM has a stick that would really give it some low end pull but the consumer will never be able go get one. An idea that warrents futher research but where do you go. Any ideas welcome!!
    Also about the tire change I had to go to the hypertech programmer to make the change.
    Sublimital,
    The best milage I have gotten in town not towing was 10mpg and the best on the road not towing was 13.5.
  • warzonectxwarzonectx Posts: 26
    how fast do the Chevy Suburban go. can the Cruise Control hold the speed going up hill. email me is you have enny info or post it. my email is [email protected]
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    I just returned from a 1200 mile trip to the WVa mountains from Ga. I have a '01 Suburban, 2500 LT 6.0, 3.73 rear, upgraded 265x70R16 Michelin tires (came with 245's). My best mpg all town is 9.9 before the trip, on the trip, all road mileage was 14.89, in the mtns was 13.2, and the return leg was 14.96. This is avg speed of 65 mph on the all road leg with a/c on auto, 800 lbs load (no trailer). I did NOT buy this vehicle for its gas mileage (I keep telling myself). Gas price for regular in Ga is $1.39, WVa is $1.77, Ky is $1.63. Keep on trucking.
  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    One problem with the 6.0 2500 is that you have 10 or 15% more hp and torque, but the vehicle is 10% heavier, so you don't get much more. If I get a 3/4 ton in the future, I will be looking at the 8.1 or a future Duramax.

    If you have the Hypertech, you might consider moving up to a 4.3 or ? rear end. Cheapest way to increase torque to the rubber. I think that the 265s are a very good idea if you are towing a lot. Margin is always valuable.
  • moznickmoznick Posts: 3
    I'm new to this board, and this question may have been previously asked and answered (sorry), but my question is, is there a significant difference on the road between the Z-71 suspension and the suspension on the LT? I recognize there are differences on paper, and the Z71 should be more adept at off road(where I'm not going) so I just wonder what the experience of others is. Thanks.
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    Dustyone, when you upgraded to Michelins, as I did, did you take in consideration the 4% speeometer error or did you have it corrected. You should be going about 4 miles further per 100 miles than the speeometer indicates. At 65, you would be doing about 67.7 MPH with out a correction, asuming that the speeommeter was accurate to start with. With a computer on board, I'm thinking it should be, but have not been able to get mine corrected. Skipjack 2
  • y2kgtsy2kgts Posts: 48
    We have had this jewel since last June, having sold our '93 GMC Suburban to our neighbor with 165,000 miles on it (3 sets of tires, 1 alternator, 2 sets of brake pads, 2 sets of shocks, 1 radiator - that's it). It is loaded with all the goodies (and is 4x4) and we added the push bar/brush guard and off-road lights before a big trip out west (4,200 miles round trip). Installed a 13.3" drop-down Flexvision LCD TV and Pioneer portable DVD with wireless headphones for the kiddies. It also has a switch to throw it on the truck speakers if we all want to listen to the local TV news as we travel, as well as a game hook up and 110 outlet. Here is our truck:


    image


    We have had a few problems in 17,000 miles: Two dead window motors, bad relay for rear A/C (first dealer said there was no rear A/C with a factory sunroof - insisted the sunroof was aftermarket!), and two problems that it is going in for on Friday. First, the "security" message lights up in the message center frequently, often while driving. The second problem is that it sometimes fails to start, although it turns over fine. I wait ten minutes and it fires right up, almost like it is flooded. It is the 5.3 motor, which has been awesome other than that. Any ideas on the security message or failure to start? Thanks either way!


    Chris

  • moss6moss6 Posts: 12
    I do have a hypertech but I don't see why telling the computer it is geared 4.30 would increase torque; if so telling it that it had smaller tires I suppose would do the same thing. This then in your reasoning would make the sensors read higher torque resistance than what was really there therefore adjusting the fuel mixture richer? If so then what do the exhaust sensors then do with the richer exhaust gasses. Have you personaly tried and achieved torque improvement?
  • warzonectxwarzonectx Posts: 26
    how fast do the Chevy Suburban go. can the Cruise Control hold the speed going up hill. email me is you have enny info or post it. my email is [email protected] cool
  • campo57campo57 Posts: 94
    Nice looking YXL.

    No thoughts on the security light but the no start thing sounds like what happened to my Bonneville a while back. Have them check the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Do you have any problems with it while driving (cutting out, running rough, etc.)? That's what was going on with my Bonne and the dealer gave me the standard "cannot duplicate" every time I dropped it off (even had it towed in once but of course, it started right up and it never set a DTC in the computer.) The only way they found it was I told them to keep the car until they fixed it and they put a real-time scanner on it and drove the car. It finally happened while they were driving it and found out it was the crank sensor.

    Hope that helps.

    Campo57
  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    No, I meant put in the real 4.3 gears. Since you have the hypertech, you can program the system so that the speedometer and everything else works accurately. The same reason that your 4.1 with non-stock tires is effectively a 3.93. The 4.3 would end up a 4.12 or some such. I'm just saying that upping the gears gets you cheap torque to the rubber.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Check out this


    http://pub48.ezboard.com/fgmtruckchatfrm3.showMessage?topicID=2.topic

    You will have to read but in the middle it is mentioned of this problem.

    (sorry bout the popups)


    There is a lady (truck chic) who had this problem on her sierra. She can definitly help you out


    Ryan

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    you dont have to become a member to post

    Ryan
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    I have not corrected for the larger tire size. I figure that it is within tolerance anyway. I have checked the odometer with a number of mile markers. It is spot on. So if the speedometer is incorrect, I don't care since I run at the speed limit or 4 to 5 miles over anyway. (I have a speed limiting governor sitting in the passengers seat)
  • rhanson3rhanson3 Posts: 69
    Question re. torque. I switched from stock 265-70-16 to 265-70-17 tires and wheels. Has my torque increased or decreased? I am still trying to decide wether or not to have dealer try to recalibrate. I hardly ever tow, if I am getting better mileage with a lower torque by not reclabrating I might leave it alone. Thanks
  • I was just wondering what kind of gas mileage everyone got on their first tank of gas with the 8.1 engine . I know it gets better after the break-in. Got my Yukon XL a weekago today. It's a awesome truck.
    Jerry
  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    Your torque at the rubber has gone down just a bit. This is the equivalent of changing your rear end down numerically from say a 4.10 to a 3.98. You are probably getting slightly better gas mileage on the highway. Your speedometer would be off about 3% (about 32 inch versus 31 inch). That is about 2 mph at 60. So drive a little slower than the speedo says in school zones, construction areas, enforcement areas.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I have a 2001 3/4 ton YXL 6L w/3:73 and 245's. I wouldn't think the axle would make the mileage drop like that! I get 14 city, and 17 highway not towing, when towing a 4000 lb car + trailer and equipment behind I get 15 hwy. I don't have any problems at takeoff, loaded or unloaded.
  • rhanson3rhanson3 Posts: 69
    Thanks for the information. I have the 3.73 transmission so am I really at 3.62? This will help my mileage some, any down side that you can think of. The only towing I do is to pull a 3000 lb boat out of the water, drive 1 mile and put in the garage. I am trying to decide if I should have the dealer try to reprogram it for the larger tires. What would you do? Thanks
  • slipperyslippery Posts: 7
    I noticed the use of the hypertech units was mentioned in several posts. What kind of results do you feel you had in performance,shifting,or economy.I have a 5.3 with 3.73 rearend and would like to see some improvement in shifting and power in the 35 to 65mph range.
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    anyone have the best.. repeat thee BEST polish for removing black paint swirls.. anything better than Meguiars or Mother's .. if not, which of their products do you recommend...

    I've tried the new Meguiar's Scratch Remover in the black tube... no good... I know they used to make a 'Swirl remover' product.. not anymore...

    any comments are appreciated..

    thanx
  • steve6666steve6666 Posts: 8
    01 Yukon, Have had since Dec '00. Pulls to right or left when road slopes in the direction of the slope, very severely. Can't let go of wheel or it takes off for a rabbit. Been to dealer and they agree it is a problem, but can't seem to make it better. Finally took to a good alignment shop and they have it set at max caster and it is better. Have tried change of tires also. Anyone having the problem? I know new suspension is more sensitive, but this is not good. Previous 96 Yukon would track straight forever. Have R70/265's on now, the original tires.
  • ssmilesssmiles Posts: 35
    I have a 2001 Suburban Z71. I have driven LT's / LS's in the past and based on my experience, the ride is noticeably stiffer. It definately caters to off-road use, but is still quite comfortable on the highway. If you don't plan on going off the pavement, I'd say stick with the other trims. Of course, the Z71 has a distinct/clean look compared to others. But looks aren't everything. I have not seen a single person complain about the available Autoride suspension available on other trims.
  • y2kgtsy2kgts Posts: 48
    First off, the black paint swirls: I have nothing but black cars and show a couple of them. For swirl marks use 3M Swirl Mark Remover (Part #051131) for dark cars. Use it like a wax but not too forceful - it will polish it down nicely. You will then want to use your favorite wax or polish after you have used this stuff. I prefer Zaino (www.zainobros.com) for my show stuff, but it is a bit more expensive and you may do just as well with off the shelf stuff. BTW, I found the 3M Swirl Remover at Pep Boys, but have not seen it elsewhere. I know many paint shops use it successfully.


    I also wanted to thank Ryan for pointing me in the right direction on the "Odds and Ends" problems I am having with my Y2K YXL. I am pretty sure it is the PassLock system coupled with a bad ignition cluster from what I have read. This would cause both the "security" message and the occasional failure to start. Campo, I appreciate your thoughts and have shared that problem before. I had two '87 Grand Nationals and they BOTH had bad crankshaft sensors. One tended to leave me stranded until the dealer figured it out on the fourth try. The second car was fixed the first time it happened, of course. Thanks again for the help!


    Chris


    PS. I haven't seen a thread on mileage for the 5.3, but I am VERY happy with mine: Roughly 15 mpg in the city and 19 mpg on the highway. Compared to my '93 with 12/16 and much less power (5.7), we are thrilled. Try a Dodge Durango that gets 11/14 - THAT stinks!
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    I had a new Yukon (95) that wandered on the road. Similar to what you describe. Turned out the front tires were over inflated. I reduced the tire pressure and the truck then tracked like it should. I always look at the tires to see what maximum pressure/load is and never exceed that, and if not carrying a load, I use a little less pressure. I'm sure that this has been checked (or should have been) before they reset the alignment. Skipjack2
  • gpvsgpvs Posts: 214
    I too have owned a couple of black cars and the swirls are visible if you have it. I have used products from Griots Garage. Try it. I'm hooked with their products, they're expensive though, but to me, it's worth it since it does the job.
  • I think that the Hypertech can adjust programming for tire sizes every 1/4 inch. I don't know about the dealer. You might ask if/how much for the programming from your dealer. I don't know if I would bother for 3%. And your mileage is 3% better than you thought. Your boat hauling is no problem.
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    y2kgts:..thanx for the 3m swirl remover info..& was looking for some decent 'show car' products ... every 'regular' off the shelf product I've tried in the past like Mequiars & Mothers.. no good.. I've had black cars in the past also ..over the counter polishes/waxes worked okay on my wife's older 'emerald green'( almost a black-green) Q45 that she drove a few years back.. not so far with her new 1 month old Black '01 Subn 4wd LT :(


    also re: gas mileage .. my '99 ( WHITE and easy to keep clean ) Subn LT 4wd 5.7L gets 15+mpg around town and 'mixed' driving and 17-18 over the road Interstate driving with 44K miles on it.. so far her new '01 Subn 5.3L gets 15+mpg mixed driving around town and 18 on a couple short trips of 100+ miles from Myrtle Beach to Charleston SC on Rt 17...


    gpvs I just found the Griots Garage site.. will check out their car care products.. thanx... http://www.griotsgarage.com/index.jsp


    I just become a 'fanatic' when I see swirl marks in dark cars.. :)


    thanx again..

  • y2kgtsy2kgts Posts: 48
    The way we found the Zaino stuff was through the various message boards for show cars - Vettes, Vipers, etc. I ended up reading some of their testimonials and saw that many of those folks owned black cars. My "show" car has endured 14,000 miles of drag racing, road racing, autocrossing (yes, with a cone or two knocked down) and still looks great. It is as black as they come and shines like a mirror. The Zaino spray-mist is excellent between washes, especially when used with a California duster. I ended up buying it by the case for all of my cars. After all, black is the hardest to keep clean, but when it is - wow!! Keep us posted.


    Chris
  • btenbten Posts: 28
    I agree with ssmiles. I test drove a 4wd Z71 and LT back to back on some rather rough roads. The Z71 is a little stiffer, as you would expect. The best ride probably comes with an LT with Autoride. I don't think Autoride is available with the LS. (not sure about the Yukon XL). Looks are not every thing, but I really like the looks of my Z71. (btw. ssmiles- do you have people asking you if it is a Tahoe rather than a Sub. I get a lot of "it sure looks shorter than a suburban" type comments (the first from my wife when I drove it home!))
  • y2kgtsy2kgts Posts: 48
    Just a quick note on my Yukon XL with the intermittent security message lighting up. Having followed Ryan's lead, I mentioned the PassLock problems to the dealership. They said that they have already had other GM SUV's and trucks come in with similar problems. There was even a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) issued by GM for it. They said they are frequently bad. They replaced the PassLock sensor and so far, so good. I noticed that the security light now flashes when the doors are open, which it did not do before. They say this is also what caused it to fail to start on occasion. We shall see!

    Thanks again for the help.

    Chris
  • rhanson3rhanson3 Posts: 69
    My Lund Trident bug shield on my XL makes to much front windshield noise. I have even calked on the top and sides of the windshield as people have suggested with no success. I had it painted to match the truck and it looks great. Has any else had success with another brand, I see them on lots of 2000 & 2001 sub's and XL's and can't imagine they make the noise that mine does.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    If you push the lock button while the door is open the light should go solid, and after you close the door it stays on for around 30 seconds or so. Just FYI.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I have one, also painted to match, it is made by a company called image. I had to wait for 3.5 weeks to get it, but it fits good, looks great, and matches paint color perfect. I noticed no wind noise change with the shield on. Image paints them at their factory on an order basis, so nothing sits around. It cost $95 at the local truck accessory store. They have now switched to a clear Bugflector II, they have a quicker lead time getting the clear one and having a local shop paint them. A co-worker will only put Bugflector bug shields on his trucks, he says they are the best he has used and never noticed any wind noise either. Others have posted that the GM Parts dept at the dealer can get them through the GM accessory catalog, color matched with the GM logo. Might be able to find one on http://www.goodwrench.com under the accessory page.
  • cwhit3cwhit3 Posts: 6
    I know that GM dealers can pull up from some database (I guess GM's) a print out of the actual invoice on a used vehicle using the VIN number. This shows the used vehicle's factory installed options and other information about the manufacture of the specific vehicle. I am shopping for a used Yukon XL and would like to be able to use the VIN number of vehicles advertised on the internet to research to find out how the vehicle was equipped at the factory, where made, etc. Is there any way that a web head can get access to a database to do the same thing that the dealer can do?
  • sb55sb55 On an Island in VermontPosts: 436
    I saw an ad in the local paper for a loaded 2001 Chev. LT at about $6,000. off of the list price (42K down to 36K) on May 31. Unfortunately, there was some kind of dealer incentive that expired on May 31, so that was the last day at this price.
    Does anybody know of any incentive coming in June? I do currently own a '95, and want to use the loyalty rebate while I still can.

    2007 Miata PRHT, 2014 BMW 535d X-drive, 2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Ext. cab with 6.2 V-8

  • cwhit3cwhit3 Posts: 6
    Can anyone tell me whether the 4WD Yukon XL rides any rougher on the Interstate than a 2WD? What about with Auto Ride? I am talking about the 1/2 ton truck. Thanks.
  • moznickmoznick Posts: 3
    Just a thanks for the comments. very helpful.
  • msncowtnmsncowtn Posts: 18
    to stakeout...just curious as to how a vehicle that new already has paint swirls....?

    Mike/DFW
  • slipperyslippery Posts: 7
    I have a 4WD 1500 YXL and my buddy has a 2WD. His rides better. I have bad low back and notice every crack in the pavement. You can really tell the difference around town. On the highway it is less noticeable. I wish mine was 2WD. Only reason I bought 4Wd was to be able to tow it behind motorhome.
  • Afte much debate I settled for a YXL 1500 4X2 as opposesed to a 2500 4X2. With all the discounts ($4500 GM Card, $1,750 Dealer Cash/Loyalty, $1,000 coupon from GM for past burban problems I got close to $12,000 off sticker, Vehicle Sold at invoice. Sad to see my 94 burban go, great vehicle

    Looking to put 285/70/16's in place of firestones. Tire dealers are scared thesed days to suggest alternate sizes. Anybody have experience with this size.

    I am also looking to put on the wheel flares from the 2500 on the 1500. These are quite subtle and not as large as bushwackers. Any comments from would be appreciated.
  • ssmilesssmiles Posts: 35
    Acutally, I have had a few folks ask if my Z71 was a Burb or Tahoe. They didn't mention the size, but just the fact that the Z71's do not have the badging on the back which states "Suburban" or "Tahoe". Mine, as I am sure yours does, just says "Z71" on the left and "Chevrolet" on the right.
  • sloanesqsloanesq Posts: 60
    I just got my new Suburban about a week and a half ago and so far so good. Most importantly, the wife, who will be driving it the most, likes it too. Anyhow, we will probably be using it to carpool kids to school and the thought of all those wet & muddy sneakers on my pristine carpeted floor mats gives me the willies. Does anyone know a good place to purchase rubber mats for all three rows of seating?
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Sloan


    check out my pictures at


    http://www.picturetrail.com/ryanbab


    for pics of my husky floor mats. They are awesome. Hold mud snow water very good. Just wipe em with a damp towel to clean em.


    Z71 PKG someone mentioned their burbs going somewhere in indiana to be "customized" with the roof racks and such. Well friday afternoon i drove by the place that does them while on my way to ohio. They had about 3 dozen burbs in their back lot. Most of them were black. They had a few that were done and ready to ship. So if your waiting they are on their way.


    Ryan

  • msncowtnmsncowtn Posts: 18
    to pro2soccer......I have installed these flares on my 1500. They were just the right proportions in my opinion. Easy instal, and exact fit. I have posted pics of these at Delphi.com, GMSUV forum. I think the posting is under "aftermarket accys ".
    Mike/DFW
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