GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

jamesbe

The driver's side mirror on my 2003 YukonXL has a loose screw behind the glass. Any hints on how to pop the glass to reach it?

fkozil

The leather seats are more durable and clean up much easier than the cloth seats.

I agree that leather is hot in the summer but the tan leather seats don't seem to keep the heat as much as the grey.

The Suburban & Yukon XL are larger than the Expedition. The difference in space is behind the third row seat.

We rented an Expedition for a week and then tried out a Suburban. Expedition is a nice vehicle but I feel it failed to compare to the Suburban.

4burb

I recently had to replace a very cracked passenger mirror on my MIL's Buick. GM Dealership told me they all pretty much work the same way, hers are heated and power adj w/ memory. All I did was push the mirror all the way in toward the window so I could see behind it. Then I took a screwdriver and popped off the middle where it attaches. Once I got the center off it just pulled off with the two pins that drive the power adj. I disconnected the wires that work the heat and that was it. Reconnected the wires, power adj pins, and lined all items back up and popped it back on, I used a towel and my palm so the pressure would be equal. Getting the new one on was harder than the old one off. Good Luck.

curlybill

Thanks for the info ... I test drove the Expedition, the Yukon XL and the Explorer XLT which was too small. I liked the Yukon the best. Looks like it will be the Yukon or the Suburban, and we are leaning toward the Yukon. The bonus is that it will fit in my garage (I have a two car garage with separate doors.

jamesbe

Thanks 4burb. Just what I was thinking.

raiste

which relay went bad? In case this happens to me, that would be the first place I would want to look.

Thanks.

hawk248

Looking for 2nd and 3rd row cover for a 03 Z71 burb. It has leather and bench (60/40) 2nd row seat. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

fkozil

Cabelas has a lot of nice accessories like seat covers, floor mats etc.

Cabelas.com

cinemascreen

We just purchased a 2001 LT 4WD ("pre-owned") that seems loaded (no video system), and I was wondering how I can tell what, if any, of the extras listed in the owners manual are installed in mine.

It has heated seats, sunroof, running boards, but there were a few thinks like autoride, etc. that I really don't know whether I have them or not.

This is our first Suburban [we love it so far], so I am not sure how to find out this info (no original sticker came with the car).

Thanks.

lucnoel

If you look in the glove box, there is a sticker that list all the truck options/base equipment
You can also go to any dealer and using you VIN they can print out all the options/base equipment

eichster

I just bought a 2003 LS suburban with prefered components package/leather, bose system, and many other features. What I am alittle confused about is the info. center were the odometer is. When I start my car it says driver 1. Both my remotes are labeled different (1 and 2) but that deosn't seem to change anything. Any thoughts as to what it means and is there any other secrets to the 2003 LS1500 that I should know.

beentook2

I just bought a 2003 Suburban LS too and had the same issue. The salesman sold me the vehicle with the idea that driver 1 and driver 2 can set their own radio controls with the two separate key fabs. When my husband and I tried to set our radio stations, only Driver 1 would appear on the driver information center. I took it in to have the service department check to see why it wouldn't work. The service department told me the driver key fabs/setting radio controls option only works on the LTs. The salesman shouldn't have told me I had that option on my LS. Hope this helps. Good luck.

beentook2

I am now pursuing a claim (Lemon Law) against GM Chevrolet via the BBB, since GM Chevrolet advised they can not fix it due to no GM Service Bulletins and to them IT'S A NORMAL NOISE.

Has anybody experienced a noise in a Suburban/Tahoe coming from the front dash, while the vehicle is being driven and when the a/c is on? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

00water

Has any had problems with on star? Mine has not worked correctly since 2/03 & as of 10/03 still not corrected. I have been dealing with on star, GM & the dealership and have gotten no where. GM told me to file with BBB & i was forced to. Can anyone give me any more ideas?

raiste

Mine has a "hissing' sound under the dash when the AC is on. I figure it is the freon flowing through the evaporator. What have they told you it is? Is it a problem with the evaporator?

beentook2

They have told me it's the freon running through the a/c unit (they never addressed whether or not it was a problem with the evaporator), and the sound is not a mechanical issue but a "normal" noise. So otherwords, live with it, which I have tried to but my "hissing" sound is more than just a light noise. It gets louder and louder after you drive it approx. 3-5mins, and once it starts, it doesn't stop until you turn the a/c off. It's very disappointing for a brand new vehicle to be making this noise. GM won't fix it and for this reason, I am pushing with my claim with the BBB.

peglegger

I was quoted $1690 for an extended warranty that is 6 year/100K miles and $0 deductible. (Price is $1490 for $100 deductible.) My vehicle is a 2003 Z71 Suburban w/30K miles on it currently (price was $150 cheaper if my vehicle still had under 20K miles).

Covers everything that was original equipment, same as factory warranty, even DVD player, XM, etc.

Company is DirectServiceContracts.com; has been around since 1978 and actual company is Lindner or Lindsay or something like that. They said that the dealer direct bills to the insurance company and that I don't pay a dime (except deductible if I go that route).

1. Does anyone know this company?
2. Is this a good price?

Thanks!!!!!

lobsenza

I purchased a Chrysler warranty for my GM SUV. The Crhysler warranty was much more economical (slightly more than half) and I did not have confidence in 3rd party warranty sources. I have not used the warranty yet.

maskins1

I own a 01 GMC Yukon XL and it has 34K miles on it and I was thinking about going for an 03 Z71. I test drove one yesterday. Here is what I can report:

1. Brakes really took more foot pressure from me to get the breaking action right compared to my Yukon. Is this normal?

2. I drove in 2WD only but I noticed a rumble up front and it felt like the tires were out of balance. Is this normal for 4WD?

3. The ride was generally louder. I guess the tires are the reason for this.

4. I think I will test a 4WD Yukon XL or Suburban 4WD and see what the differences may be.

I also test drove the Denali and like the way it drives and feels with AWD but don't like the way GM put painted bumpers on a $51K vehicle.

I want to make sure if I switch I don't find a lemon. My Yukon has been superb, but with 0% interest I could switch and not see a difference on my payments.

Thanks,

peglegger

We bought an 03 Z71 Suburban a little over a year ago and have put 30K miles on it. We bought it mostly for the looks (fender flares, roof rack, body color, 17" wheels, color coded grill).

I do have to say that I think the ride is rougher and firmer. You might like firmer, if you think that your Burb floats too much. If you like the floatiness, you won't like firmer.

The tires are fairly knobby, compared to all-seasons put on a lot of Burbs. This also contributes to the ride/noise, IMO.

I love the truck, but you have to decide which ride you want and what look you want. I wouldn't change it, but I wouldn't mind a little cushier ride and will probably consider a quieter tire when I replace the stock tires.

jimmyp1

you need to face reality, painted bumpers = higher end versions of current cars and trucks. Sometimes referred to as monotone or body color cladding. I would not buy any car over $30k WITH chrome/metal bumpers. I despise chrome of any kind.

Jim

4burb

Just a thought or suggestion, if you know you don't like the painted bumpers might want to reconsider a Burb LT or XL SLT. Doesn't the Z71 have painted bumpers just like the Denali?

maskins1

My wife destroys painted bumpers. she hit the trim on the Garage entry and knocked the trim wood clear off with her Yukon XL. Looked at the Bumper and NADA. Now that's a bumper. This Painted Bumper Crap has worn me out for too many years. Been around way too long. Chrome is great and the bumper becomes functional for minor scuffs without the paint being scrapped off. Nothing worse that a $50+K Denali with paint missing on the bumper. Yeah I know everyone does it, but I'll take Steel anyday.

Z71 - No problem. Rather paint steel than Plastic. I like the Z71. Test drove another on Tuesday. Had it most of the day. Totally impressive. Did hear the NOISE in the AC and it is an Ear Sore. The Radio kills it though. I asked the dealer if he would lower the cost an extra 10K because the Truck was made in Mexico. I told him when I buy it will be an Arlington, TX Truck or I won't buy.

Had my 01 Yukon XL inspected today. IT FAILED because of the Parking Brake! The inspection technician says 95% of all 1 and 2 year old Burbs, Yukons, Chevy - GMC Pickups fail this test. Says there will be a RECALL.

ADVICE GET IT CHECKED OUT BEFORE 36K miles or you will spend over $300 in repairs. There is something set wrong and it winds up wearing the back breaks out prematurely.

PROBLEM 2 - Wear on the inside of the Front Tire Treads. Tech said another trademark of GMC and Chevy Trucks. He says that the Trucks Front ends are lowered down for shipping and not re-established back to correct height at the Dealer. Says this wears the inside tire tread prematurely. I checked several at the GMC Dealer and they were all wearing funny.

Anyway my dealer is going to take care of the Brake problem and was trying to sluff off on the Tires, but I told him the tires are not a deal breaker for me and I will buy another 04 GMC soon, but I told him that I have fought with this abnormal wear for a long time and rotation and Front end alignment did nothing. So I said if you know something I don't lets work a deal and give me a break on tire cost and alignment and lets get the problem fixed or adjusted.

So we're dealin.' Its always better to work with your dealer. GMC or GM would be a nightmare. Heck after all I am still under Warranty PLUS have a 100K GM Protection Plan.

raiste

You said: "He says that the Trucks Front ends are lowered down for shipping and not re-established back to correct height at the Dealer"

Did they say how to fix this? Also, is there a way to look at the front end (besides the tires) to tell whether or not the front end was put back to normal?

Thanks.

fkozil

Usually, when new vehicles are delivered to a dealership via carrier, the tires are under inflated. Just in case a vehicle were to come off of the carrier, with under inflated tires, it would not be able to roll or free wheel that far opposed to one with inflated tires.

Other than tire pressure, I am not sure how the manufacturer could lower the vehicle for shipping purposes.

When some of the foreign cars are unloaded out of the port, they are packaged on roller skids and usually do not have any wheels on them.

circutmann

I totally agree with you in all regards. The chromed steel bumper takes a world of bumps w/o any marks. The only possible advantage to plastic covered bumpers would be, that small dents would not show, as much, as the bumper cover will usually spring back. Often though, the paint on the plastic gets cracked or scraped off. I'll take chromed steel as well.

I had the park brake fixed under warranty as well just before my 3-year warranty was up. I did not & still do not have any problems w/ tire wear on my 01 YXL 4wd.

The OEM Tombstones are still wearing great. In spite of all the bad press & problems I have heard about, the Firestones are by far the best wearing tires I have ever owned. Treadwear is even across the thread, & I have experienced good traction in snow, even here in the North East. Haven't gotten stuck yet, & rarely have even spun a tire. I must have been lucky.

I probably will go w/ Michelin X-terrain's next time, only because I have heard & read all good things about them. Just my 2 cents. Dave

maskins1

The inspection tech told me that the distance from the top of the Rim to the bottom of the Fender opening should be equal front to back and side to side. He says that when they are he does not see the inside wear. Now this could just be an opinion. My dealer went ahead and alinged my front end with the bad tires. He says all they do is let the Wheels hang free and then make the adjustment. When I remeasured after the alignment I did not see a material difference. The back measures about 13.5 and the front 12.5 inches. Perhaps some one else could measure?

Anyway I passed the inspection for the rear parking break issue and the 36K Warranty covered the problem. They turned the rotors and replaced the rear break pads.

About the tires all I can say is get it aligned within within the first couple thousand miles. The dealer said they don't normally re-align after 7500 miles.

Now if I can just sell this 01 I will either buy the Z71 or Yukon XL 4WD.

Here's my Truck:

http://www.cars.com/search/used/cc/standard/results/single/ld/det- ail.jhtml?paId=134388120&aff=national&src=&cid=null

stever

Your tire comments caught my eye because usually people find that their tires are overinflated at the dealer and the dealers often forget to adjust the pressure when they prep new cars. Tires are usually overinflated because they would get flatspotted sitting around the lot otherwise. Or so I keep reading around Town Hall.

I saw a bunch of new Beetles get loaded on a ship in Veracruz in '00 and they were all driven on. I have no idea if they were going to Miami or Galveston or further.

Steve, Host

fkozil

Many of the car dealers just put enough air in the tires to keep them up and don't pay attention to the actual specs recommended by the manufacturer.

When I got the new Suburban, the specs on the door jam call for 30 psi in each tire. This is for the 17" wheels.

After I got home and checked, 2 of the tires only had about 25 psi in them and the other 2 were below 30 as well.

I guess it could have been from the vehicle sitting but I am disappointed that the dealer did not check them before delivering the vehicle.

I know that Toyota & Lexus vehicles delivered into port in north Jersey & Philadelphia do not have wheels on them. (Perhaps certain models do)

kenarri

Got 4 toddlers and don't know which one to get. Can someone tell me which one has the easiest access to told row? I'm leaning on the burb but with history of problems, I'm not sure if I want to buy $40k problems. With Expy, I can purchase the truck on employee discount program. Sure like the size of the burb.

Thanks,
Dave

rctennis3811

dont buy a Suburban/Yukon XL/Denali/Escalade

why?

1. Pushrod engines - Instead of improving efficiency and gas mileage, they lower both of them because of their lack of overhead cams, Variable Valve Timing and/or Variable Induction System. plus they are too harsh and accelerate slowly
2. Poor crash tests - Silverado, which is based on Suburban or the other way around, got only a MARGINAL in crash tests scores
3. Lack of airbags and safety features - ONLY side airbags are available, nope..no side curtains here! also the Traction Control System and Stability Management System isn't as advanced as the Japanese
4. Poor build quality - why are u paying 50K for a Suburban with fake wood inside?? call it Escalade!..not worth it, believe me..ive had experience..also, the GM "parts bin" gives the same materials and plastics from the low-quality Suburban/Tahoe to the Escalade/Denali..NOT WORTH IT!

So why buy Japanese?

1. New Infiniti QX56 - the size of an Escalade with a sexier interior with the latest in safety, technological, and mechanical features..better gas mileage too..better overall resale value and much higher-quality at a couple-of-thousand dollars less
2. Toyota Sequoia - higher quality and STILL BUILT IN US..wow! was it a miracle or what? more safety features too
3. Nissan Pathfinder Armada - new and capable of everything

**remember this: even the 2004 Lincoln Navigator has more sophistication in it! It just needs a more powerful engine..

hunts8

Three weeks ago I bought a 2002 Z71 burb. It's great. Drive/steering resistance is much easier/looser than Jeep Grand Cherokee I drove previously. Overall that's fine... but, I notice it feels especially loose (with a bump/knock I can feel thru the steering wheel) when I'm in a gradual left curve -- especially in the 30-40 mph range. Vehicle has 22,000 miles so warranty should cover. Before taking it in I was wondering -- has anyone else experienced this or based on my non-mechanical description, does anyone have any ideas?

fiddo

I had a 2000 Suburban which after approximately 35,000 km developed a very similiar steering wheel vibration at low speeds when turning. The dealership could not reproduce it but there was a dealer notice (not recall) that should a customer complain of this it was likely due to too high a "tolerance" in a steering column component. I believe the middle part of a three piece assembly. This was replaced under warranty and it fixed the problem. Good luck with this.

dako_tian

But, Randall, your profile says you own a Suzuki!?! 'Nuff said....

stever

Maybe it's time to rethink Suzuki:

"Suzuki thinks it has identified a group of buyers who want what the company calls "affordable luxury." Those are buyers who like nice things, but who are willing to pay only so much to get them. They want a maximum return on a minimum investment. Their ego needs are satisfied by buying the car that comes closest to complying with that formula."

Carmakers Embrace Niche Marketing (Washington Post)

If you read the article, you'll see that GM has made their own (monetary) contributions to Suzuki.

Steve, Host

dako_tian

But Daimler-Benz hasn't (won't?) make Chryslers any better. Ford bought Jaguar ("Jog-U-ar!") and they haven't seemed much improved, other than their pickup's determined hold on best selling vehicle (Hey, I enjoyed mine a lot!). My guess is that these joint ventures, mergers and investments have no particular effect on the newly-corporately-related products when things go best; but have a negative effect on the better product if there is any effect at all. It is far easier to drag something down than it is to pull something up!

I answered the "gentleman" above only because I am irritated at simple-minded anti-push-rod, anti-American-car-makers, anti-brand-name, anti-thinking thinking. The errors in logic are too numerous to mention, but a great example is saying that crash tests which show how well the frame and body protects the occupants can be extrapolated from a pickup body to an SUV body on the same frame. He might as well walk around in circles with a sign reading "Down with <hated-company/ethnic group/country/whatever>!" or put one of those window decals on his vehicle showing that ornery-looking little jerk with the stream issuing forth onto the "enemy" brand.

stever

I thought Jags were getting better, reliability-wise, since Ford came into the picture? Every decade seems to result in more auto mergers with little niche companies going along for the ride.

I do agree that new technology isn't necessarily better just because it's new.

But GM has to stay on its toes because a lot of the "junk" car companies have gotten a lot better. CR has praised a Hyundai model and our editors recently gave the Sorento a most wanted award for '04.

Suburbans always made great canoeing rigs (my personal test, lol). They can carry 5 paddlers with all their gear inside comfortably for a long ride to the put-in (with 3+ canoes on top) and you can cram 9 in for the shuttle without much effort. They were sure popular in Alaska when I lived up there.

Steve, Host

dako_tian

Maybe Jags are better now. But I still can't say "Jog-U-ar" with a straight face. I'll stick with "Jag-wire" for sure. ;-)

And I will (must) continue to admire from afar. The Yukon XL is as close to a luxury vehicle as I've ever gotten -- maybe as I'll ever get until the kids are through college. Given that they are almost-five and two-and-a-half, and that I am 49; then that may have to be a "luxury" ambulance or something equipped with life-support paraphernalia. ;-)

dako_tian

I am old enough to remember when Hondas were joke cars and what happened after that. So, I also must agree that the "domestics" (and what, exactly, does that mean these days?!?) must keep working hard to stay ahead of the increasing competition.

stever

Wow. I'm 51 and our cats wear me out. Nice to see you have enough energy to post! Did Cord make a hearse, lol?

My luxury ride is an '97 Outback Ltd. w/ leather seats that I got back in April :-).

Steve, Host

dako_tian

many Packards were modified for hearse duty... ;-)

GM also makes hearses, I'm sure; some possibly based on Suburban/Yukon XLs (lame effort to stay on topic and mollify those here who are incensed at any humanity, comradery or other "useless" chitchat).

rctennis3811

but how do u change ur profile?? we actually hav an FX45 now..how do u change it???

tidester

Click on the "My Profile" link near the top of the left column on this page (under "Account Center"). Then you can change whatever you want in your user profile.

tidester, host

rctennis3811

thanks on telling me how to change it..ill do it rite away.

rctennis3811

still, u drive a Yukon XL?? wow u must really be desperate to buy that piece of crap..

im not hating domestics..i love Caddys and some new Chevys <Equinox, Colorodo>..but the Suburban/Yukon arent that great.

p.s. are u pinoy?

jpmack

The current bodystyle was introduced with the 2000 model year. When is the next body redesign expected? Any reliable news?

dako_tian

Actually I just bought the Yukon XL 10 days ago. We had a custom 1999 F150 Supercab before that, '95 Civic before that, nothing before that while overseas (Sri Lanka), '89 VW Fox (Yes, VW and not Audi -- a different car altogether) before that, '79 Toyota Corolla and '70 VW Bug before that, '7? Datsun 510 before that, '78 Fiat 124 and '77 Saab 900 before that, '76 Fiat X1/9 before that, '69 Camaro before that, and a '64 Ford Galaxie Convertible first of all (bought in 1972). Only the latest two and the two Fiats were new cars.

Obviously, you can see that I am not a car-purchasing "nut" nor an aficionado. I've suffered my share of fools and have spent a great deal of my life being one. Sometimes, I've leapt to conclusions about things (such as domestics) only to find out that things had changed and I was wrong. This is why I bought the F150; I could find little if anything major in the way of complaints about it, either here in Edmunds or elsewhere. It is a very nice ride, in fact; more comfortable and, yes, more luxurious than anything I had owned previously.

Before buying the F150, I had been carefully planning to get an Odyssey, firmly sold on the superiority of the Japanese makers -- Honda and Toyota at the top. However, the problem and repair history of Odysseys (and Siennas, for that matter) has seemed to contradict that assumption. They aren't awful, but they fall short of the hype and on level ground with Ford and GM products, I think.

We were shopping for 8 seats minimum (my wife is the Pinoy and family is visiting next year) and so we were considering the Honda Pilot, the new Toyota Sienna LE8 and the Yukon XL (Suburban, if forced to do so -- I don't like their grill nearly as much). The Pilot would be people OR luggage (unless willing to deal with the windage of a massive box on the roof), Siennas are so far unavailable for viewing, and the year-end deals on 2003 Yukons tempted us enough to succumb.

Now maybe I'll regret this purchase; time will tell. But the facts I could uncover did not give any huge negative about these vehicles. Owners comments (and repurchase statistics) reveal far more owners happy enough to buy another one than those feeling stung by the experience. In the end, you puts down your money and you takes your chances.

My objection to your comments was that you are simply "against" something and not very constructively. Maybe you didn't intend that tone; it is easier to write unintentional negative tones than to clearly present a plus/minus case for a point of view. But you clearly said "Don't buy!" What possible purpose do you have in posting that? It just doesn't seem very helpful to anyone (are you trying to save people from themselves really? Or are you trying to feel better about your own decision?).

Interestingly, my Dad (who has never owned any foreign-branded vehicle except for his one indiscression with a mid-sixties VW Beetle), is shying away from buying another Cadillac because he is so unimpressed with their reliability history when compared to Lexus, Accura and the like....

4burb

First, with all the discussion of the ride height in front not being adjusted I would like to know the following. I was wondering why the back of some burbs sit higher than the front and some are level, not talking about those with autoride. Specifically, my friends 03 LT 2WD is level and my 02 LT 4WD sits higher in the back. Dealership told me the difference was 2WD vs 4WD but I'm sure I have seen both 2WD and 4WD burbs, some that are level and some that sit higher in back. Don't all LTs w/o autoride have the same "premium" suspension?
Second, my 02 LT 4WD has the factory fender flares. I was thinking of putting the molded Husky splash guards on it and wanted to know if anyone has done this? How hard was it and do you like them?
Thanks for all the great info and conversations.

grogman1

Not sure that I can help with the height question. I have an '01 YXL 4WD with Autoride, but I've never noticed a height difference, with the exception of those that have been modified or lowered. With regard to the Husky flaps, I installed them on mine and love them. They keep the vehicle cleaner and it really helps cut down on mud, leaves, etc. kicking up from the road and sitting on the side of the vehicle. The only thing that bummed me out was that after I had them installed for about a year, I took them off to clean behind them because I noticed sand, dirt and small rocks were getting trapped in the channel on the flap that molds to the sheet metal. As a result, I had some scratches and wear spots that I had to touch up. When I re-installed them, I put 3-4 3M round bumper pads on the channel of each flap to create a small gap between the channel and the sheet metal so that debris can't get trapped. Give me your E-mail and I can send you a pick of my truck with them installed.

lucnoel

How much can you tow with you "truk/SUV" ?

Since you seems to know so much about everything, including engine, I'm surprised that you don't know that torque, not horsepower is what a heavy truk/Suv need to tow and that overhead cams and 4 valves per cylinder give you more rpm's (and consequently horsepower) but less torque, especially at low rpm's than the old single cam, 2 valves per cylinder engine.
You see, I bought my YukonXL 2500 with the 8.1 liter to TOW my race cars and trailer(12000 lbs), not to be fashionable or to have a "cute" SUV like your's.