Watch the ads. A couple of dealers here in DFW have been offering their own discounts on top of the current GMC incentive discount for 2003 GMC Yukon XLs (now $5500). At the time I bought last month, the GMC incentive was $5000 (actually two separate incentives combined) and the dealer was offering another $4500 off for a total of $9500 off MSRP.
As phkck implied, you can go to www.gmc.com and check dealer inventory for your area to see what is actually in stock with the options and trim level you desire. I didn't check the Chevrolet site, but I'm guessing that you could do the same there. Good luck and hang tough for the price you want.
I don't know, but to me the Yukon XL would be the "Texas Cadillac, but with a better looking grill!" ;-)
I guess it has a few more standard items than the Suburban, but I got the base level version because I wanted 8 seats and cannot stand leather. Since the deal I got on a closeout 2003 Yukon XL would have been difficult to beat in a Suburban, I got the grill and side trim that I prefer pretty much for free, I think. May all of us end up as satisfied as I am. :-)
Plus, as I discovered at the new owner's barbecue dinner (this is Texas afterall!) and orientation, buying from a Buick/GMC/Pontiac dealer means that I won't have to rub shoulders with many of those rowdy thirty and forty year olds when I take my truck in for service! ;-) In fact, I'm sure the only ones in their twenties present will be a few new hires in Service and, as of next February, I'll represent a pretty sparse group in the fifties! I was told that an AARP card isn't absolutely necessary, but it doesn't hurt. The word sedate comes to mind....
I find it interesting that GMC is considered upscale from Chevy. I certainly had that opinion, until last year when we bought our 2003 Suburban.
The differences are purely cosmetic and are limited to minor exterior bits: grille, lights, bumper shape, side chrome. The mechanical stuff and interiors were identical, and in the end the prices came out essentially identical, so I take that as proof. glsable
I agree. Since they are both GM companies there isn't any real effort to clarify the differences. One GMC salesman told me that the Yukon XLs were better insulated against sound and had more comfy seats than the Suburbans. It's possible, I suppose, but doesn't seem too likely to me considering that they are built in the same plants (one here in Arlington and another in Mexico where mine was built) and that I think they'd make a bigger deal out of it if it really were true.
One thing that the dealer general manager told me that probably is somewhat true is that the Yukon XLs have a slightly higher resale value just because they are fewer in number. Here's hoping!
I do think that more features are offered as standard equipment on the Yukon XL. Even so, I think that everything that I got on my almost-as-simple-as-can-be-had Yukon XL could also be configured on a Suburban. Only the Denali seems to offer equipment unavailable on a Suburban. Still, I do actually like the cosmetic differences and might have actually paid a little more for them (though I didn't have to).
Had a 10.4 video system installed in my 2002 Suburban and wanted to share a neat feature called a versatimer. It's a timer installed along with a switch that you push just before taking the key out. It allows the video to stay on for 30 minutes even after the key is removed and the door is opened. I've used it several times for a few minutes, don't think I'll leave it running for 30 minutes though.
I have heard that same storyline from GMC about extra sound-deadening, but I am convinced it is not true.
All the electronic equipment in the top-line YukonXL and top-line Suburbans is the same, although I did notice the option packaging was a little different. For example, on the Suburban LT the 6-disc changer was included, but it was an additional option on top of the YXL SLT package. And on the GMC it came bundled with XM, which is available separately on the Chevy. Things like that, but very minor things. One advantage I thought of for the YXL is that you can upgrade to the Denali High-Intensity headlights easily (although the price from the parts dept might be pretty steep!).
From some angles I like the Yukon front better, and from some angles I like the Chevy front better. And I liked the thinner side chrome better on the 'Burb. But it is all personal preference. The Denali grille with the honeycomb material looks good. And I thought that the Caddy's sharp-edged appearance looked awkward slapped onto the front of a Suburban/Yukon! glsable
Choice is really which dealership is most customer friendly. I have seen Chevy pickups that had a GMC Grille when it arrived at the Chevy dealership. Everything else read "Chevrolet". However, the base GMC is always a little more upscale than the base Chevy clone. In the olden days, the GMC WAS a different vehicle. The GMC 2 ton trucks had a nice, large, powerful V6 engine while Chevy 2 ton trucks had an anemic inline 6 Chevy engine. (I know: my uncle had the GMC and my dad had a Chevy. NO comparison with performance. That 2 ton GMC often tipped the scales at gross weight OVER 30,000 pounds when heavily laden with sugar beets. Farmers have no respect for their vehicles.)
Here in No. Virginia Pohanka Chevy is advertising a 2003 LS at $11,770 off MSRP + freight, so that is really about $11,000 off MSRP. Plus tax, tags, and processing fee, of course. Sterling Chevy is another one that probably offers the same, or better. $26k for a Suburban sounds like a great price! glsable
We presently have a 98 burb with 100,000 miles. We are very anxious to replace it with a 2004,but the height of the 4x4 has gone up at least an inch since 98. Our garage won't go the 75.4 necessary. Talked to Chevy and all models come with a roof rack factory installed. Does anyone have any ideas for us. We hate the thought of downsizing to a Sequoia. Thanks for your help. halfdozen
Oooo! I just can't resist these games (my kids I call Ameripinos -- half American & half Filipino -- and sometimes, if they've done something wrong and thus obviously due to my wife's genetic input, Filipcanos). So, let me see....
Chevy/GMC Suburbukon (has a vaguely iconic sound to it) Chevy/GMC SubYukon (only for those southern and eastern portions of Canada, the contiguous U.S. states, and Hawaii) GMC/Chevy Yukurban (might sell well in some of the former Soviet republics) GMC/Chevy Yukonurban (though that sounds like a boycott of those Northern regions).
we have two '01 Suburbans... recently for the Thanxgiving Holiday we took a trip up north to Long Island(NY) using my Z71 burban with 40K miles on it...
I filled up the gas tank at the local Shell station near my S-I-L's house... after about 20 miles of driving the 'Service Engine Soon' warning light came on and stayed on... hmmmm... after reading the owner's manual basically it said to see the dealer..
my experience with ..dare I say it.. Fords.. in the past when the Check Engine Light came on usually meant the O2 sensor was bad and needed replacing....
since we were driving back to NC on Saturday the next morning no chance seeing a dealer..would it be covered under the Emissions longer than 3 years warranty..???
I decided to hunt down a couple of bottles of good old dry gas.. put them in...the light still remained on... to heck with it... we left for home on Sat AM... still the light was on... I got down to Delaware decided to fillup using high test gas.. I normally use the recommended 87 regular... still the light was on...
truck ran smooth as it always does except for that annoying Service Engine Soon light that was there... made a pit stop at Mickey D's in Hopewell, Va and filled up at the Exxon across the way.. used high test again...
low and behold I turn the engine on.. voila.. no more Service Engine Soon light.. it's off..
been using the truck ever since.. a-ok..
now.. the only thing that's bothering me is .. did I get a tank of 'bad gas ' at that Shell station in NY.. maybe water in their tanks that they are supposed to service and clean out.. yeah right???
...or was it the gas formula additive they use up that way for winter driving.. but heck, a Suburban is a Suburban and should run on it...I guess..
anyone have any thoughts on why this occurred.. has anyone had this happen to them..
I'm sure if I bring it in to my local dealer now , it's an automatic $200 bill and won't somehow be covered under the emissions warranty
Could be coincidental or could also be just a fluke with the warning light. Your "bad tank of gas" at Shell is probably the correct explanation. I wouldn't buy any more Shell gas (or any other brand) if I had that experience. Glad your Suburban is running well again.
You should be able to ORDER a SUB with roof rack DELETE. Discuss with the dealers fleet mgr or internet sales mgr. If you order one, you should be able to pay right around invoice and then subtract any consumer rebates.
You can remove the roof rack by removing the screws that mount it to the roof. I remove mine (Tahoe) occasionally when I wax the roof. The screws require a Torx type screw driver to remove. Just make sure that you plug or seal the screw holes. Water will enter the vehicle if you do not seal the holes. If you ever put the roof rack back on the vehicle, use thread sealer on the screw threads to prevent water from leaking into the vehicle.
We just purchased our first GMC and it appears that it's going to take weeks to get a third wireless headset for the DVD system. Does anyone know any suppliers who may have them or other compatible devices?
The most likely cause of the problem is that you didn't tighten the gas cap fully the first time. A loose gas cap will cause the check engine light to come on. Adding the dry gas fixed the problem because the cap was tight the second time.
that's what I thought...a loose/untightened gas cap.. but I checked that first.. then went and bought the dry gas.. and topped off the tank with high test... had a fillup on the trip down in Delaware.. also tightened it.. still that light stayed on..not until that stop in Va and another fillup with high test did it go out..
I always turn the cap so it 'clicks'
maybe it's just a 'southern' type truck and didn't like being up in that 'northern air'.. heck I don't like it up there anymore since moving down here from Long Island 14 years ago
Had same problem with 1996 Lesabre after filling up with Amoco. Went to local station I am friendly with.Scanned computer and was told it was a emission code. Told to replace gas cap as the seal was properly no good. He said this is a common problem. Replaced cap no more problems!!!
My first thought would be to remove just the roof rack cross bars, since this would gain you about the inch you need, and that way you don't have to mess with the screws in the roof. Not sure how easy it is to remove the bars though. glsable
I had to remove the bars on my Denali in order to get it into the garage. Very easy, no tools needed. I also had to re-adjust the garage door opener bracket to pull the door a bit higher.
I believe the check engine light may remain on a certain amount of time after the problem disappears or it may take a certain amount of time to detect that the problem is gone.
I am getting ready to buy a 3/4 ton 4wd with the 8.1 l engine. No matter how I figure it, the Chevrolet LS model comes out $1160 cheaper than the Yukon XL. Can any one tell me why or what I am missing? It appears that the base price is cheaper on the Chev,but when I add all the same options as the XL,it still look cheaper.
Before I bought my Chevy 2500, I did the same comparison. The GMC always had more "options" built into the packages and would always have a higher price as a result. If you look hard enough, I'm sure you will find some differences. $1160 difference seems extreme. I would spend a little time configuring with the Edmunds utility to decide what you want/need. If you can't see a good reason for the extra $1160, Chevy wins. Either way, you will love the new one. Even my wife likes to drive it!
I just bought a '98 Suburban. It will be used mostly for family trips and family camping trips. I think the 'Burban will have less trouble towing my popup camper and family than my Nissan van.
While the overall condition of the vechicle seems good and my mechanic gave the truck the thumbs-up. Are there any special concerns or maintenance items I should address on a Suburban with 68,000 miles on the clock? I'm especially looking for those special items that people who live with this trucks know from real-life experience.
I previously owned a '99 Subn got it new... a couple of things to look for..
when starting off from a stop like at a stop sign.. listen for a 'clunk' coming out of the rear end... I had mine fixed under warranty.. there was a TSB bulletin on it.. all they had to do to fix it was replace the rear diff fluid with different viscosity...
also.. water leaking thru the rear barn doors in to the inside.. check out the carpeting in the very rear top see if it is wet or smell it to see if it smells 'moldy'... they resealed the roof rack bolts.. there was a TSB on this also..
right now we have two '01 Subns 4wd.. I wish I had my old '99 back... not as pretty as the new style.. but it was bigger and I liked it better...except for the barn doors.. I'll take the liftgate we have now anytime
Stakeout, Interesting you mention the clunk. I have heard a slight clunk on mine. Do you know what fluid they used to get rid of it in your truck and where can I get the "TSB" bulletin?
I'll check for a leak. It is raining like it will never stop as I write. Tomorrow morning should tell all!
I also recommend you have the transmission serviced if you have no records of the previous owner doing it. I am also interested in the diff fluid changeout. What fluid/viscocity was used? My 99 Tahoe has the "klunk". My understanding was that the fix (temporary) was to grease the rear yoke.
E-mail addresses of participants is in their profile. Just click on their TownHall name and it should give you the info.
Bought my Tahoe used w/41,000 miles. I now have 64,000 miles on it. The klunk is a nuisance, but if there is an easy fix, I will do it. The dealer that i purchased it from lubed the yoke for me once. That lasted about 4 weeks.
I'm glad to hear the clunk is just a nuisance. I'll be talking to my mechanic over the next day or two to see what he has to say. I trust him to give me an honest answer, including telling me he doesn't know if that is the case.
I called a local dealer re. this earlier in the day. The service manager said he said he doesn't know of any bulletin re. this issue. He would be happy to flush and replace the fluid for $120.
We have a 99 Ford Expedition and were ready to trade it in for a 2000, 2001, 2002 or 2003 GMC Yukon XL 1500 because of the additional room behind the 3rd seat, but started reading about piston slap problems with the GMC Yukon as well as other GMC vehicles. I asked the dealer but he said he isn't aware of this problem (yeah right). Can anyone give any advice or information on this problem. Thanks!
I've seen an entry or two somewhere early in these forums (you can read all, as I did, or do a search) about piston slap on the GMC V8s. But frankly, I saw a lot more about piston slap on the Fords when I was contemplating buying my 1999 F150 (sold to get our new 2003 Yukon XL). The problem didn't seem to be wide-spread in the Fords nor does it seem to be (even less so, if number of posts are any indication) in the GM engines.
on my '99 Subn, I noticed the 'clunk' after only a few thousand miles were on it from new... only heard it when starting off from a dead stop..
brought in to Chevy dealer.. svc mgr knew about it right away.. didn't even look it up...was told by svc mgr that there was a TSB( his words) from Chevy on it and all they had to do "was change oil in rear".. never mentioned greasing the yoke.. they did it.. I never asked what type...
had it for 45k more miles without any more of the clunk.. they fixed it.. by simply replacing the original rear end oil with newer recommended one..
the closest I could find to a TSB on this clunking noise was from the NHTSA TSB site on a '99 Silverado.. same drivetrain as Subn..
ALSO NOTE... possible OMISSION of the Auxiliary Tranny oil cooler on Trailer Tow packages on most '99 Chevy full sized trucks... a recall was sent out to me on that one.. the Subn's was the same as the Silverado's below..
Make : CHEVROLET Model : SILVERADO Year : 1999 Service Bulletin Num : 010417004 Date of Bulletin: OCT 01, 2001 Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:ENGINE:GASOLINE Summary: INFORMATION REGARDING CLUNK, BUMP OR SQUAWK WHEN VEHICLE COMES TO A COMPLETE STOP OR ACCELERATION FROM COMPLETE STOP. *YH
yet another...
Make : CHEVROLET Model : SILVERADO Year : 1999 Service Bulletin Num : 270901 Date of Bulletin: SEP 27, 2001 Component: SUSPENSION Summary: SOME VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4-WHEEL DRIVE EXTENDED CAB AND SHORT BED MAY EXPERIENCE A BUMP OR CLUNK ON STOP OR ACCELERATION. *SLC
Make : CHEVROLET Model : SILVERADO Year : 1999 Service Bulletin Num : 99027 Date of Bulletin: AUG 01, 1999 Component: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Summary: GENERAL MOTORS HAS DECIDED THAT SOME VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4.8L OR 5.3L ENGINES AND 4L60-E AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS, AND VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 3.73 REAR AXLES AND ORDERED WITH THE HEAVY-DUTY TRAILERING PACKAGE MAY NOT HAVE INCLUDED THE MERCHANDISING-INTENT AUXILIARY TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER. *TT
Congratulations on your 2003 Yuck XL Dako_Tian ! Just joking ...
I test drove a 2003 this evening. Sounds unbelievable but I didn't know you had bought one. Must say I was impressed. Nice dinosaur feeling. Probably the toughest headlights I ever used. The long beams were terrific. Deep snow was not a problem.
The thing retails new for about CAN$62,000 in Canada (before any discounts). It's the Suburban 1500 4X4 LT. This one had 5000 KM (3125 miles), "management car", and they were asking for CAN$42,000. Looked and smelled like new.
The things I didn't like were: 1) when driving on the typical Canadian bumpy roads I was bouncing up and down and my foot was also bouncing on the gas pedal. This didn't happened when driving other cars. 2) No curtain airbags. 3) Low quality engine noise (not when driving but when carefully inserting my head under the hood). 4) Gas consumption.
I own a 01 Yukon XL with On Star service. Last Saturday night after a Christmas show we came out to the Yukon XL and the battery was dead. When you hear ads about just push the onstar button and every thing will be fine as GM can tell you what is wrong. False advertising as I see it. The vehicle was towed to the dealership and the battery had a bad cell. This is the 3rd GM vehicle I have owned and the battery go bad within 24 months and it leaves you stranded.
Also maybe someone can explain why the car needs the battery after the car is running. I thought the battery was only needed for starting?
it's been a while since I had that '99 Subn rear end trouble.. then turned it back in on a new lease for a new 01 burban and that lease is almost up..
all I can remember is that the svc mgr said they replaced the fluid with a 'better and different type' as recommended by Chevy.. what type, viscosity, etc I don't recall if I asked about it at all... I was just glad they didn't have to replace anything in the rear end.. never a problem after that..nice and smooth... as a joke, I used to call it their 'magic oil'...
if I happen to come across that old warranty w*rksheet.. which I probably threw out .. I'll give you a yell..
if that dead battery was UNDER 36 months AND under 36K miles.. it is covered by GM warranty in full.. not pro-rated at all.. replaced my old '99 Subn battery within 30 months...under 36K.. FREE
I knew to keep a watch on our two '01 Subns that we now have... my Z71 battery went into the 'black' on the glass three months ago..after 26 months ..but over the 36K mileage..not completely dead so I tried recharging it.. waste of time.. had to buy a new one to be safe as we travel a lot these days .. my wife's '01 Subn so far is still 'green' on the battery glass on top..
it's not only GM.. had it happen my last two Ford SUV's.. an Explorer and an Expedition... both under warranty though
both GM and Ford just replaced them after running a check .. no questions asked..
as far as Onstar.. if it costs money to get it not worth it.. get a cell phone.. after one year free the price is silly.. a ripoff
Not only will the engine not stay running, but your next trip will likely be to the dealer or auto parts store to buy a new alternator. Today's alternators require excitation voltage from the battery itself to operate. Disconnecting the battery while the engine is running, will almost certainly damage the alternator's electronics.
Today's alternators are so sensitive, that I would not even consider jump starting one vehicle from another. Use a "jump box" that acts as a separate battery alone. The interaction of (2) vehicles charging systems, today will often damage the alternator of one or both vehicles.
Even the AAA, will only use a "jump box" to start other vehicle, to avoid problems. I would not recommend experimenting with disconnecting the battery while the engine is running.
If you do,....note the date, & report back when your alternator fails, so that we can chart the expected life of alternators after this experiment, or after jump starting one vehicle with another. Today's alternator is not like yesteryear's generator. Dave
The vehicle runs more from the battery at low engine RPMs and from the alternator at higher RPMs. Accessory load plays a part as well. Obviously, the alternater has to put out on average more than is used, otherwise the battery will not stay charged.
I have personally driven a vehicle with skid control through a wet course of cones. I drove the same vehicle through the cones trying to maintain the same speed with the skid control off. What an AMAZING difference the skid control makes. It definitely can save your life. Yes, there is a risk of a malfunction. But, there is electronic testing that tests the system and disables it if there is a problem (in addition to putting on an indicator on the dash). Skid control is probably one of the most important safety advances in years.
Comments
As phkck implied, you can go to www.gmc.com and check dealer inventory for your area to see what is actually in stock with the options and trim level you desire. I didn't check the Chevrolet site, but I'm guessing that you could do the same there. Good luck and hang tough for the price you want.
General Motors recognized the popularity of the Suburban hence the Cadillac Escalade.
I guess it has a few more standard items than the Suburban, but I got the base level version because I wanted 8 seats and cannot stand leather. Since the deal I got on a closeout 2003 Yukon XL would have been difficult to beat in a Suburban, I got the grill and side trim that I prefer pretty much for free, I think. May all of us end up as satisfied as I am. :-)
Plus, as I discovered at the new owner's barbecue dinner (this is Texas afterall!) and orientation, buying from a Buick/GMC/Pontiac dealer means that I won't have to rub shoulders with many of those rowdy thirty and forty year olds when I take my truck in for service! ;-) In fact, I'm sure the only ones in their twenties present will be a few new hires in Service and, as of next February, I'll represent a pretty sparse group in the fifties! I was told that an AARP card isn't absolutely necessary, but it doesn't hurt. The word sedate comes to mind....
The differences are purely cosmetic and are limited to minor exterior bits: grille, lights, bumper shape, side chrome. The mechanical stuff and interiors were identical, and in the end the prices came out essentially identical, so I take that as proof.
glsable
One thing that the dealer general manager told me that probably is somewhat true is that the Yukon XLs have a slightly higher resale value just because they are fewer in number. Here's hoping!
I do think that more features are offered as standard equipment on the Yukon XL. Even so, I think that everything that I got on my almost-as-simple-as-can-be-had Yukon XL could also be configured on a Suburban. Only the Denali seems to offer equipment unavailable on a Suburban. Still, I do actually like the cosmetic differences and might have actually paid a little more for them (though I didn't have to).
All the electronic equipment in the top-line YukonXL and top-line Suburbans is the same, although I did notice the option packaging was a little different. For example, on the Suburban LT the 6-disc changer was included, but it was an additional option on top of the YXL SLT package. And on the GMC it came bundled with XM, which is available separately on the Chevy. Things like that, but very minor things. One advantage I thought of for the YXL is that you can upgrade to the Denali High-Intensity headlights easily (although the price from the parts dept might be pretty steep!).
From some angles I like the Yukon front better, and from some angles I like the Chevy front better. And I liked the thinner side chrome better on the 'Burb. But it is all personal preference. The Denali grille with the honeycomb material looks good. And I thought that the Caddy's sharp-edged appearance looked awkward slapped onto the front of a Suburban/Yukon!
glsable
However, the base GMC is always a little more upscale than the base Chevy clone.
In the olden days, the GMC WAS a different vehicle. The GMC 2 ton trucks had a nice, large, powerful V6 engine while Chevy 2 ton trucks had an anemic inline 6 Chevy engine. (I know: my uncle had the GMC and my dad had a Chevy. NO comparison with performance. That 2 ton GMC often tipped the scales at gross weight OVER 30,000 pounds when heavily laden with sugar beets. Farmers have no respect for their vehicles.)
You are probably right that the GMC image is based on fact, somewhere in history.
Anyhow, we are very happy with our GMC/Chevy Yukonburban!
glsable
glsable
halfdozen
Chevy/GMC Suburbukon (has a vaguely iconic sound to it)
Chevy/GMC SubYukon (only for those southern and eastern portions of Canada, the contiguous U.S. states, and Hawaii)
GMC/Chevy Yukurban (might sell well in some of the former Soviet republics)
GMC/Chevy Yukonurban (though that sounds like a boycott of those Northern regions).
Enough already!?!
2003 LT 3/4 4x4 8.1 loaded
I filled up the gas tank at the local Shell station near my S-I-L's house... after about 20 miles of driving the 'Service Engine Soon' warning light came on and stayed on... hmmmm... after reading the owner's manual basically it said to see the dealer..
my experience with ..dare I say it.. Fords.. in the past when the Check Engine Light came on usually meant the O2 sensor was bad and needed replacing....
since we were driving back to NC on Saturday the next morning no chance seeing a dealer..would it be covered under the Emissions longer than 3 years warranty..???
I decided to hunt down a couple of bottles of good old dry gas.. put them in...the light still remained on... to heck with it... we left for home on Sat AM... still the light was on... I got down to Delaware decided to fillup using high test gas.. I normally use the recommended 87 regular... still the light was on...
truck ran smooth as it always does except for that annoying Service Engine Soon light that was there... made a pit stop at Mickey D's in Hopewell, Va and filled up at the Exxon across the way.. used high test again...
low and behold I turn the engine on.. voila.. no more Service Engine Soon light.. it's off..
been using the truck ever since.. a-ok..
now.. the only thing that's bothering me is .. did I get a tank of 'bad gas ' at that Shell station in NY.. maybe water in their tanks that they are supposed to service and clean out.. yeah right???
...or was it the gas formula additive they use up that way for winter driving.. but heck, a Suburban is a Suburban and should run on it...I guess..
anyone have any thoughts on why this occurred.. has anyone had this happen to them..
I'm sure if I bring it in to my local dealer now , it's an automatic $200 bill and won't somehow be covered under the emissions warranty
Your "bad tank of gas" at Shell is probably the correct explanation. I wouldn't buy any more Shell gas (or any other brand) if I had that experience.
Glad your Suburban is running well again.
We just purchased our first GMC and it appears that it's going to take weeks to get a third wireless headset for the DVD system. Does anyone know any suppliers who may have them or other compatible devices?
Many thanks in advance!
I always turn the cap so it 'clicks'
maybe it's just a 'southern' type truck and didn't like being up in that 'northern air'.. heck I don't like it up there anymore since moving down here from Long Island 14 years ago
glsable
While the overall condition of the vechicle seems good and my mechanic gave the truck the thumbs-up. Are there any special concerns or maintenance items I should address on a Suburban with 68,000 miles on the clock? I'm especially looking for those special items that people who live with this trucks know from real-life experience.
Thanks,
Hector Bravo
when starting off from a stop like at a stop sign.. listen for a 'clunk' coming out of the rear end... I had mine fixed under warranty.. there was a TSB bulletin on it.. all they had to do to fix it was replace the rear diff fluid with different viscosity...
also.. water leaking thru the rear barn doors in to the inside.. check out the carpeting in the very rear top see if it is wet or smell it to see if it smells 'moldy'... they resealed the roof rack bolts.. there was a TSB on this also..
right now we have two '01 Subns 4wd.. I wish I had my old '99 back... not as pretty as the new style.. but it was bigger and I liked it better...except for the barn doors.. I'll take the liftgate we have now anytime
Interesting you mention the clunk. I have heard a slight clunk on mine. Do you know what fluid they used to get rid of it in your truck and where can I get the "TSB" bulletin?
I'll check for a leak. It is raining like it will never stop as I write. Tomorrow morning should tell all!
Thanks for the reply.
Hector Bravo
The truck did have a trans flush/refill and an oil change before I bought it. The oil cooler also was replaced as it was leaking.
Did you purchase your Tahoe new? Have you spoken to the dealer re. the klunk? Is this more of an annoyance than a fatal flaw?
Also, how do I reply directly to your message instead of just posting a new message?
Thanks.
Hector
Bought my Tahoe used w/41,000 miles. I now have 64,000 miles on it. The klunk is a nuisance, but if there is an easy fix, I will do it. The dealer that i purchased it from lubed the yoke for me once. That lasted about 4 weeks.
I called a local dealer re. this earlier in the day. The service manager said he said he doesn't know of any bulletin re. this issue. He would be happy to flush and replace the fluid for $120.
Hector
brought in to Chevy dealer.. svc mgr knew about it right away.. didn't even look it up...was told by svc mgr that there was a TSB( his words) from Chevy on it and all they had to do "was change oil in rear".. never mentioned greasing the yoke.. they did it.. I never asked what type...
had it for 45k more miles without any more of the clunk.. they fixed it.. by simply replacing the original rear end oil with newer recommended one..
the closest I could find to a TSB on this clunking noise was from the NHTSA TSB site on a '99 Silverado.. same drivetrain as Subn..
you can do a search yourself for any make year model vehcile.. go to http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/Index.cfm
ALSO NOTE... possible OMISSION of the Auxiliary Tranny oil cooler on Trailer Tow packages on most '99 Chevy full sized trucks... a recall was sent out to me on that one.. the Subn's was the same as the Silverado's below..
Make : CHEVROLET Model : SILVERADO Year : 1999
Service Bulletin Num : 010417004 Date of Bulletin: OCT 01, 2001
Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:ENGINE:GASOLINE
Summary:
INFORMATION REGARDING CLUNK, BUMP OR SQUAWK WHEN VEHICLE COMES TO A COMPLETE STOP OR ACCELERATION FROM COMPLETE STOP. *YH
yet another...
Make : CHEVROLET Model : SILVERADO Year : 1999
Service Bulletin Num : 270901 Date of Bulletin: SEP 27, 2001
Component: SUSPENSION
Summary:
SOME VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4-WHEEL DRIVE EXTENDED CAB AND SHORT BED MAY EXPERIENCE A BUMP OR CLUNK ON STOP OR ACCELERATION. *SLC
Make : CHEVROLET Model : SILVERADO Year : 1999
Service Bulletin Num : 99027 Date of Bulletin: AUG 01, 1999
Component: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Summary:
GENERAL MOTORS HAS DECIDED THAT SOME VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4.8L OR 5.3L ENGINES AND 4L60-E AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS, AND VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 3.73 REAR AXLES AND ORDERED WITH THE HEAVY-DUTY TRAILERING PACKAGE MAY NOT HAVE INCLUDED THE MERCHANDISING-INTENT AUXILIARY TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER. *TT
Thanks for all that great information. I will check the site as soon as possible.
Do you happen to know the specifics on what type of oil was used when they replaced the factory oil?
I think I might call another dealer and speak to the service manager.
Hector
Just joking ...
I test drove a 2003 this evening. Sounds unbelievable but I didn't know you had bought one. Must say I was impressed. Nice dinosaur feeling. Probably the toughest headlights I ever used. The long beams were terrific. Deep snow was not a problem.
The thing retails new for about CAN$62,000 in Canada (before any discounts). It's the Suburban 1500 4X4 LT. This one had 5000 KM (3125 miles), "management car", and they were asking for CAN$42,000. Looked and smelled like new.
The things I didn't like were: 1) when driving on the typical Canadian bumpy roads I was bouncing up and down and my foot was also bouncing on the gas pedal. This didn't happened when driving other cars. 2) No curtain airbags. 3) Low quality engine noise (not when driving but when carefully inserting my head under the hood). 4) Gas consumption.
Man ... I missed your fights ...
Rodut
http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/020320.htm
There are tons of web pages that talk about this subject. Just search the internet for, "gm piston slap"
Also maybe someone can explain why the car needs the battery after the car is running. I thought the battery was only needed for starting?
all I can remember is that the svc mgr said they replaced the fluid with a 'better and different type' as recommended by Chevy.. what type, viscosity, etc I don't recall if I asked about it at all... I was just glad they didn't have to replace anything in the rear end.. never a problem after that..nice and smooth... as a joke, I used to call it their 'magic oil'...
if I happen to come across that old warranty w*rksheet.. which I probably threw out .. I'll give you a yell..
I knew to keep a watch on our two '01 Subns that we now have... my Z71 battery went into the 'black' on the glass three months ago..after 26 months ..but over the 36K mileage..not completely dead so I tried recharging it.. waste of time.. had to buy a new one to be safe as we travel a lot these days .. my wife's '01 Subn so far is still 'green' on the battery glass on top..
it's not only GM.. had it happen my last two Ford SUV's.. an Explorer and an Expedition... both under warranty though
both GM and Ford just replaced them after running a check .. no questions asked..
as far as Onstar.. if it costs money to get it not worth it.. get a cell phone.. after one year free the price is silly.. a ripoff
Thanks for the information. I'll see what I can find out from some local sources.
Hector
With any modern day vehicle, you should be able to disconnect the battery after firing the engine and have the engine remain running.
Start your car, disconnect the battery and go for a long liesurely drive.
Today's alternators are so sensitive, that I would not even consider jump starting one vehicle from another. Use a "jump box" that acts as a separate battery alone. The interaction of (2) vehicles charging systems, today will often damage the alternator of one or both vehicles.
Even the AAA, will only use a "jump box" to start other vehicle, to avoid problems. I would not recommend experimenting with disconnecting the battery while the engine is running.
If you do,....note the date, & report back when your alternator fails, so that we can chart the expected life of alternators after this experiment, or after jump starting one vehicle with another. Today's alternator is not like yesteryear's generator. Dave