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If not because of the Internet, I would have thought the problems with my 07 X3 AT is an isolated case. It takes BMW over 2 years with continuous software updates to find out mine not only a software problem. It's much better now, but from time to time, problems still like to come back to remind me of its very troubled past. I am still very worried about when this X3 would become out-of warranty, because the fact that it had these hesitation and jerky shifting problems, it may have already made some damage to the transmission and its reliability would be iffy.
I would stay away with all 6-speed automatic BMWs, not only X3's. The 5-speed ATs on the other hand, is totally different, there is generally no driving issues that are not fixable for the 5-speeds. I heard about the "No-Reverse" problems but not sure how common it is that with the 04-06 X3s.
Buying a BMW is no longer a sure-bet anymore with its quality control problems especially with problems that can creep-up on you without notice. It pretty much like a "leap-of-faith" when you order a new BMW and wait for it to arrive. Thankfully, the Internet is your friend, so do your DD and accept the risks before you buy (or not to buy).
I've had BMWs for a long time and they have never been a particularly reliable car. If the X3 does not have the plethora of suspension and transmission problems then it appears to be better than the average BMW from a reliability standpoint. Who knows though since the bulk of them must still be under 100K.
If reliability is the most important thing, avoid ALL EUROPEAN makes and go with the Japanese. There is still a significant difference IMO even though the Japanese have their glitch cars as well.
I agree that getting a BMW is a roll of the dice. If it does break out of warranty then the maintenance costs run easily into the thousands. Pop the hood, pay a grand...good rule of thumb.
I've owned nine BMWs since 1983, and I currently have three in my garage. If you use a good dealer and/or a good independent BMW tech your running costs wont be bad at all. I have a 2004 X3 2.5 with 85,500 miles and non-scheduled maintenance has consisted of a passenger SRS sensor(warranty), one set of tires at 50,000 miles, and one set of brakes at 60,000 miles. Maintenance and repair costs over four years of ownership have averaged $56 per month- hardly a money pit. My 1995 3er has averaged $33/month since I bought it new 14 years ago- and that number includes four sets of Z-rated track tires.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Two and one-half years ago I bought a Mazdaspeed 3 because I thought it might be fun to try some thing different. Here's my experience:
Blown LF strut at 25,000 miles. That cost me a week of instructing at Watkins Glen.
Smoking turbo at 26,000 miles. The turbo was replaced, but now Mazda claims that the smoking is actually caused by an inadequate PCV system. Five months ago they promised that a PCV revised system would be available in 90 days. Now Mazda is saying the fix won't be ready until March at the earliest.
Variable Valve Timing Actuator became noisy at 46,000 miles. Replaced per TSB.
At 51,000 miles the car is now throwing a P0401 fault code(EGR flow insufficient) on a regular basis. This repair-$600-will be on my nickel as it seems that the EGR system is not covered by either the powertrain or the 49 state emissions warranty. Oh yeah, I also suspect that the remaining three shocks are also packing it in as I'm starting to hear some loud knocks from the rear suspension.
Yep, I'm sure glad I didn't buy another BMW...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Well, as I said, my comments are only based on 26 years of ownership experience and owning everything from a Bavaria 3.0 to an E24 M6 to an E39 528iA- and I'm providing hard numbers taken off my spreadsheet. Here are some examples of service on my X3 performed at my local dealer(Swope BMW Louisville, KY):
Change ATF and transfer case oil- $207.38 Inspection II, brake fluid flush, repair curb rash on LF wheel- $423.66 Oil Service, coolant flush- $128.00
I will note that Swope does give me a BMW CCA discount of 10% on parts and labor.
Now, I'll be the first to admit that service costs can be high if you have a questionable dealer and you simply walk in, hand over your Visa, and grab your ankles- but if you use some common sense and do some research the operating costs won't be bad at all.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
There are exclusions to what is covered, tires being one of them. I believe the battery isn't covered as well? So it really should be thought of as "Almost $0 for the first $50k miles."
Do you add the two numbers together? Since the X3 has a 4 year maintenance/warranty the $5,548 number is just for year number five or is this 'as if' you paid for all the maintenance and warranty.
What is up with the Q5. I hear you can prepay for maintenance and save a bit.
Edmunds assumes 15,000 miles a year so you'd hit the 50,000 free maintenance limit sometime in year four.
"There are eight components of TCO®: depreciation, interest on financing, taxes and fees, insurance premiums, fuel, maintenance, repairs and any federal tax credit that may be available. The costs are researched and placed into a series of proprietary algorithms developed by Edmunds' statisticians." True Cost to Own (TCO)
I don't know where the data comes for what breaks when. Maybe Identifix since we use their data for our reliability ratings on the vehicle pages? Labor rates and parts costs are pretty easy to find from the books.
Most of their stuff is modified.... Really cool, if you go for that... pricey, though..
It's two brothers... I think their father bankrolls the operation. I talked to him a few months ago, while the kids were off at Mid-Ohio. He is from Columbus, I think.
I think they look for nice examples for sale.. buy them, modify them (they have a shop), then put them on the lot for top-dollar... By the time they get done with them, they are mostly playthings for rich guys... You aren't likely to find a stock E30 325iS..
You can run across some pretty cool things, though... last time I was up there, they had a high-mileage '06 E90 325Xi with a 6-speed stick.. How many AWD sedans do you think they sold with a stick, that year?! One of the guys used to drive an E34 wagon, custom Laguna Seca paint, and some screamer of an engine.... cool stuff..
My wife has been driving BMWs for six years now.. Except for those three items, we've never spent a penny....
Does that mean she has driven the same BMW for 6 years bought as new and out of warranty for 2 years with only tires and oil changes required for the 2 out of warranty years?
Are you sure, certain sure that the acceleration problem isn't really just under "RE-ACCELERATION" conditions...?
All newer vehicles, beginning with the introduction of the first RX300, make use of a more FE conscious ATF line pressure control system. The old system used a pressure sustaining accumulator so that ATF line pressure was constantly, INSTANTLY, available if/when a shift sequence was "commanded.
The new "real-time" ATF line pressure control system reduces the line pressure to an absolute minimum when conditions allow. Relax the throttle during slight acceleration and the transmission will upshift accordingly. Now, QUICKLY, get back onto the gas and you will encounter a 1-2 second downshift delay/hesitation, enforced via DBW, until the real time line pressure control system has time to react and raise the pressure.
I've had several BMW's and I wouldn't wory about I those transmissions ar computer controlled and have a learn feature. In other words, they all have a delay out of the box so to speak and will adapt to you.as a reference though, BMW's transmissions do not have the quick take-off like a [non-permissible content removed] car. Part of that is also fuel economy related. But I'm pretty used to it. I get a little whiplash from the [non-permissible content removed] cars at my age..BTW, I bought my wife an X3 and she loves it. She's a real leadfoot too! Like me : )
Comments
Dont be fooled, how do I know, I had one and BMW paid me out! BTW mine was a 6 speed diesel
I would stay away with all 6-speed automatic BMWs, not only X3's. The 5-speed ATs on the other hand, is totally different, there is generally no driving issues that are not fixable for the 5-speeds. I heard about the "No-Reverse" problems but not sure how common it is that with the 04-06 X3s.
Buying a BMW is no longer a sure-bet anymore with its quality control problems especially with problems that can creep-up on you without notice. It pretty much like a "leap-of-faith" when you order a new BMW and wait for it to arrive. Thankfully, the Internet is your friend, so do your DD and accept the risks before you buy (or not to buy).
If reliability is the most important thing, avoid ALL EUROPEAN makes and go with the Japanese. There is still a significant difference IMO even though the Japanese have their glitch cars as well.
I agree that getting a BMW is a roll of the dice. If it does break out of warranty then the maintenance costs run easily into the thousands. Pop the hood, pay a grand...good rule of thumb.
I think the Subaru hatchbacks get good marks.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Blown LF strut at 25,000 miles. That cost me a week of instructing at Watkins Glen.
Smoking turbo at 26,000 miles. The turbo was replaced, but now Mazda claims that the smoking is actually caused by an inadequate PCV system. Five months ago they promised that a PCV revised system would be available in 90 days. Now Mazda is saying the fix won't be ready until March at the earliest.
Variable Valve Timing Actuator became noisy at 46,000 miles. Replaced per TSB.
At 51,000 miles the car is now throwing a P0401 fault code(EGR flow insufficient) on a regular basis. This repair-$600-will be on my nickel as it seems that the EGR system is not covered by either the powertrain or the 49 state emissions warranty. Oh yeah, I also suspect that the remaining three shocks are also packing it in as I'm starting to hear some loud knocks from the rear suspension.
Yep, I'm sure glad I didn't buy another BMW...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
I still have that bridge to sell along with brakes, rotors, head gaskets, water pumps, air conditioners and assorted dead electronics.
Delusion runs hot and heavy from time to time though. :shades:
These are mostly about the transmissions but there are some eye popping numbers on other maintenance issues as well.
http://noreverse.org/complaints.html
Make/Style/Maintenance/Repairs (all over a 5 year period):
2009 BMW X3 xDrive30i 4dr SUV AWD (3.0L 6cyl 6M) $3,185/$2,362
2009 Acura MDX 4dr SUV AWD (3.7L 6cyl 5A) $3,886/$951
2009 Mazda CX-9 Grand Touring 4dr SUV AWD (3.7L 6cyl 6A) $3,288/$724
2009 Mercedes-Benz M-Class ML350 4MATIC 4dr SUV AWD (3.5L 6cyl 7A) $4,806/$2,362
Repairs run a bit higher for the BMW and the MB than the CX-0 and MDX for the small sample set I ran. The '99 Audi Q5 is $4,630/$2,794.
Pick your own "best" X3 comparison and run the numbers.
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Change ATF and transfer case oil- $207.38
Inspection II, brake fluid flush, repair curb rash on LF wheel- $423.66
Oil Service, coolant flush- $128.00
I will note that Swope does give me a BMW CCA discount of 10% on parts and labor.
Now, I'll be the first to admit that service costs can be high if you have a questionable dealer and you simply walk in, hand over your Visa, and grab your ankles- but if you use some common sense and do some research the operating costs won't be bad at all.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Year four is the killer.
What is up with the Q5. I hear you can prepay for maintenance and save a bit.
Do you know where the raw data comes from?
"There are eight components of TCO®: depreciation, interest on financing, taxes and fees, insurance premiums, fuel, maintenance, repairs and any federal tax credit that may be available. The costs are researched and placed into a series of proprietary algorithms developed by Edmunds' statisticians." True Cost to Own (TCO)
I don't know where the data comes for what breaks when. Maybe Identifix since we use their data for our reliability ratings on the vehicle pages? Labor rates and parts costs are pretty easy to find from the books.
My wife has been driving BMWs for six years now.. Except for those three items, we've never spent a penny....
Don't know about the battery, but I'm guessing it is covered by the warranty (or a different warranty).
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It's two brothers... I think their father bankrolls the operation. I talked to him a few months ago, while the kids were off at Mid-Ohio. He is from Columbus, I think.
I think they look for nice examples for sale.. buy them, modify them (they have a shop), then put them on the lot for top-dollar... By the time they get done with them, they are mostly playthings for rich guys... You aren't likely to find a stock E30 325iS..
You can run across some pretty cool things, though... last time I was up there, they had a high-mileage '06 E90 325Xi with a 6-speed stick.. How many AWD sedans do you think they sold with a stick, that year?! One of the guys used to drive an E34 wagon, custom Laguna Seca paint, and some screamer of an engine.... cool stuff..
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Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
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Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
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Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Seasonally open, though...
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Does that mean she has driven the same BMW for 6 years bought as new and out of warranty for 2 years with only tires and oil changes required for the 2 out of warranty years?
My point was (is)... the maintenance plan is comprehensive, and as advertised..
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All newer vehicles, beginning with the introduction of the first RX300, make use of a more FE conscious ATF line pressure control system. The old system used a pressure sustaining accumulator so that ATF line pressure was constantly, INSTANTLY, available if/when a shift sequence was "commanded.
The new "real-time" ATF line pressure control system reduces the line pressure to an absolute minimum when conditions allow. Relax the throttle during slight acceleration and the transmission will upshift accordingly. Now, QUICKLY, get back onto the gas and you will encounter a 1-2 second downshift delay/hesitation, enforced via DBW, until the real time line pressure control system has time to react and raise the pressure.