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Acura MDX (pre-2007)
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I am here and always here.
About the "THUD" topic and how mine was fixed, please refer to my post #1182.
Other post replys:
1156, 1086 - ncsdtriton
1099 - always49
1151, 1187 - dbastian2.
Please let me know if you have more questions. After mine is fixed, so far the car runs great, smooth and quiet. Love it a lot.
The rear vent on the left (driver) side blows out cooler air than the rear vent on the right side. Obviously, this isn't a grave concern to me, but I wanted to have this investigated by the dealer to see if anything was wrong with the rear climate control system.
My service manager agreed to look into this issue, and by mid-afternoon, he had an explanation from Acura corporate. Apparently, much of the hardware involving the rear climate control is located under that center console area. My understanding is that this includes a heater coil and a flap that opens/closes the airflow directly from that coil. I was told this coil is located toward the passenger (right) side area below the center console. Hence, when the flap is partially open, some heated air gets mixed into the main airflow, and that mix occurs behind the vents, such that the warmer air stays toward the passenger side. There isn't much opportunity for the airflow to thoroughly mix by the time it exits the two side-by-side vents.
This phenomenon seems to occur only when the interior temperature and exterior temperature are both within a nominal range of the temperature setting, such that a small mixture of hot air is provided to the rear A/C vents. This is when the flap for the heating coil is partially open. If the flap is wide open or closed (for more significant heating or cooling), there is no noticeable temperature difference between the rear left and right A/C vents.
That's the explanation I received. I was also given an airflow diagram faxed to my dealer from Acura corporate, but due to it's 2-dimensional perspective, it's not easy to follow!
Hi Folks.
Been away for a short while. Did you eventually get to fix the problem with your dashboard. Hope it went away completely.
Hope you and the family are enjoying your MDX. Happy driving.
How much is the car?
What is the residual value?
What is the mileage allowance?
What is the lease factor?
If you can have the car for $1 at the end of 42 months, it might be an OK deal.
If you don't understand leasing, and you insist on leasing, you deserve it.
Sorry, but "how much down and how much per month" is no way to acquire a car...
Ard
First vist they messed with the motor mount tabs (or something, I never got to talk to the mechanic). Seemed to go away, but it was back in a week.
Second visit they replaced the left rail assembly. It's been quiet for 4 days....
Also had a thud/clunkle in the left front suspension. All fittings were torqued properly, so that didn't cure it. Finally replaced the upper strut tower bearing. Quiet now.
Ard
Has anyone had similar problems with the climate control system?
Thanks.
Assuming that you run the climate control system in "full auto" mode, I don't see why you would need to set the temp at 65 to keep the cabin cooled down. We usually run our MDX between 70 and 73, and our MDX will crank out the A/C if the cabin is warmer than that setting. If you believe your MDX is not cooling the cabin anywhere near the set temperature, then you might want to double-check yourself by bringing a small thermometer into the cabin with you. Of course, keep the thermometer out of the direct sunlight. If during an extended drive the thermometer proves the MDX is failing to cool the cabin to within 3 degrees of the temperature setting, then you should probably ask to have your climate control system serviced.
Some investigation has led me to wonder whether it may actually be caused by a wire bundle that runs along the top edge just behind the glove box door latch. My dealer says there are some relays in that area. I checked the areas you recommended, but I didn't get very far. Here is what I know for sure: When the problem appears, opening or closing the door has no affect on it; pushing on the left corner of the closed door sometimes helps (not consistently); but putting some force on that wire bundle (with the door open) seems to stop the noise.
My dealer has assured me if I can reproduce the noise for him, he will get the problem resolved for me. He said I can stop by anytime to demonstrate this problem. Because my wife is the primary driver, and she doesn't drive near the dealership, this little intermittant problem has gone on longer than it should!
I installed the Britax Roundabout in our MDX this weekend, rear-facing. It took a bit of work, but the setup seems quite secure. I put it in the middle of the second row, which is probably the safest position (away from side impacts). And, in rear-facing mode, the center position is possibly the only position to install the seat rear-facing -- it actually sticks out a bit between the two front seats. Front-facing would have no problem, of course.
The first key to installation was putting some rolled-up towels underneath the front base of the seat (towards the seat cushion). The MDX's second row is at a bit of an angle so the Britax's seat back wouldn't be close to a 45-degree position. And, frankly, the Britax is a bit too upright for rear-facing infants, so some extra tilt is needed.
Using the ceiling-anchored lap/shoulder belt, I ran the belt through the rear-facing slots. Then after securing the belt, I pulled out all the slack in the belt and let the locking retractor pull it back in. Then a whole bunch of pulling to get the seat as tight as possible.
The second key was the use of extra rolled-up towel layers under the left-base of the child seat. Partly because of the pull of the shoulder belt, and partly because the MDX's center seating position is a bit off center (because of the 60-40 split), the padding needed to tilt the seat somewhat.
I used the Britax "VersaTether" to anchor the seat to the frame rod running just below the front of the second row seat. The hook's retaining clip found that rod to be too thick, so I used the (now included) D-ring connector strap to make the connection.
There is a bit of rub between the side of the child seat and the upper side of the driver's seat. This is because of the seat's sheer size and the fact that the seat is slightly off-center. It makes some noise when driving but we can deal with it (will use some vinyl cleaner on it ... I assume the side piece is vinyl?). We also had slight contact with the rather large infant seat we were using (Century Avanta SE, which we also recommend ... goes up to 29", 22 lbs).
Nevertheless, we're quite happy with this setup, both the MDX and the Britax Roundabout. The latter was expensive for a carseat, but it has features that none of the competition has. Incidentally, Britax is releasing a new version of the Roundabout called "Advantage," which has infinitely adjustable harness and headrest positions (no threading). http://www.childseat.com is Britax's web site.
My thanks to those who have provided feedback. I'm sure I'll post another series of messages when we have to turn our son around into the forward-facing position!
See:
http://www.jdpower.com/auto/hot_sellers/FindHotSellers.jsp
and select "Luxury SUVs" in the pull-down menu.
The slowing economy and bad weather is definitely hurting overall vehicle sales. The RX300 is still #1, but its sales are off 18% for the comparable month. The M-Class, which has had the #2 spot for quite a while, is off 29%.
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket and Accessories message boards
Peter
Now, Acura comes out with my dream 4WD vehicle and I'm over 1.5 years into the lease on the Jeep and want to buy an MDX.
I'm reading the comments and it sounds like it's worth thinking about the MDX. Is there anything besides rattles and odd noises here and there that would prevent you from recommending that I purchase an MDX? Any ideas on whether I'll be able to sell my lease to an Acura dealer and go home with an MDX? I saw the one I want prominently displayed in the dealership parking lot. I'm thinking we either need to wait to close out the lease on the Jeep when it's due 7/2002 or figure out a way to make it happen now.
Any advice you have would be terrific. THANKS!
We feel your pain. Beyond the MINOR issue here and there (I'd say the only issues of significance are "the thud" and the defective buttons on the BOSE -- which not everyone has experienced) the car is truly exceptional.
Bad news is, you are gonna be "upside down" on your lease, as they say in dealerspeak. I can't remember the terms of my old Heep lease through BofA (and the terms will depend on who the lessor is) but the penalty for bailing early is sometimes VERY stiff.
Even worse, your Heep has no doubt depreciated in a hurtful way. You are going to be as upside down as one can get.
I remember I tried to get out of a 60-month BMW lease (after projecting repair costs after the 36-mo warranty was about to expire) and was going to get hit with 1) the balance of lease payments due anyway, PLUS 2) $50 a month for every month I wasn't leasing anymore.
Depending on how bad you want the MDX, you should 1) check the fine print on the Heep lease and 2) check your most recent bank account statement.
My guess is that your best bet will be to find someone to assume your lease payments on the Heep so you don't get hammered with the early termination penalties.
Good luck.
coming from a/c unit or engine; it happens when
i come to a stop with my foot on the brake.
within 5 seconds, this sound starts, and as soon
as I take my foot off the brake, it stops.
sounds like a rough idling engine, but i don't
think it's the engine. This does not happen when
the a/c is off, or if i'm idling in park.
any others have this?
Two weeks ago, my wife was driving to work on I-80, 30 miles east of Sacramento; an 18 wheeler with twin trailers lost control from the right lane and smashed a GMC 350 truck just ahead of her. She was braking hard and tried to avoid them by driving in the shoulder. But the GMC truck was wrapped around by the twin-trailers and smashed into the right-front side and guard-rail in the median sandwiched the left side. Only the front-air bag deployed; my wife suffered only minor shoulder injuries(just below her left shoulder). The other two trucks stopped about 30 feet ahead and neither driver was injured; GMC truck was totaled.
You will all be happy to know that the MDX performed well both in terms of the control during the collision and the damage it was able to take. The firemen at the scene was impressed by the lack of major injuries(freeway was shut down for 2 hrs). The repair costs may come to upwards of $19K(even though there was no frame damage). Our insurance company gave us a choice of either fixing the MDX or totaling it. We chose the latter and we are waiting for their formal offer. We still plan to buy another MDX since it still fits ours needs well.
I agree w/ theworm. I've never had a good experience w/ any body shop. Totalling it was the right decision (though you'll be out of a car for a while either way)-:
Glad everyone is ok.
Now Acura DX is making me rethink... any comments/comparison between DX and ML320 would be greatly appreciated.
Could you give us an idea of what your selection criteria/priorities are?
For (1), you should try both to see which you like better. The MDX's tuck away into the cargo floor but adults fit better in the ML ones.
For (2), the MDX has no rear side bags but some people don't like them because of the media saying they'll take your kid's head off along w/ graphic demos of unbelted kid dummies.
For (3), I suspect the ML would do better in rollovers (real-life pics available), but there are not enough MDX accident examples/pics yet.
The key is whether or not the convertible's harness will fit a newborn well. The convertible has to be able to hold a toddler up to around 40 lbs (though it's size and not weight in this case), so the convertible's designed in such a way where the spacing of the harness may or may not be adjustable to adequately fit a small baby. With an infant seat, there's almost never an issue because the harness is sized to only go up to about 20-22 lbs.
I'm conservative about child safety, so I elected to go with a dedicated infant seat. However, I don't think that folks who just use the convertible from the start are jeopardizing their child, especially if they use a better convertible seat. It is a tough call and comes down to your own conclusions.
Non-safety benefits of a dedicated infant seat is that they can be used as carriers. So you don't have to wake a sleeping baby when you take him or her out of the car seat and bring them into the house. And believe me, that alone is something you can end up being very thankful for!
When our son was very young (first couple of months), he'd squeal whenever we "messed with him" by strapping or unstrapping him into a seat. We'd just carry him into the house in the seat, and leave him there until he woke up. Also, the infant seat often serves as an alternate sleeping platform. E.g. he couldn't sleep well in his crib at first, so the pediatrician advised trying the car seat (which envelopes them more and may give a newborn a better sense of security).
As far as which infant seat, we bought the Century Avanta SE, which is on the larger and heavier side, but seems to have a good balance of features. Five-point harness (which isn't as critical for an infant seat, but is nice to have) and three adjustable "slots" for the harness (the Evenflow we had considered had only one -- though it's not too bad since for rear-facing, the harness should be threaded below the baby's shoulders). It was about $80 at Babies'R'Us and Toys'R'Us (Babies'R'Us carries a larger selection, including Britax).
We also liked the Graco SnugRide DX5 but its Achilles heel is that it doesn't snap onto shopping carts.
I'd stay away from the Britax Handle With Care. They're a good company and their products are some of the best, but the Handle With Care doesn't cut it, IMHO. It doesn't have a detachable base option. While it IS true that a seat is safer without the detachable base, I'd almost guarantee that the risks of improper installation resulting from removal of the infant seat, and subsequent re-installation, outweigh the practical issues. And if you leave the seat in, it may as well be a convertible.
One way to save money is to look for coupons from Babies'R'Us and Toys'R'Us. Get on their mailing list. I think right now Toys'R'Us has one of their $8 off any car seat coupons.
Rarer are coupons from Babies'R'Us for 20% off any one item; there was one they mailed that expired a couple of weeks ago (we used it to buy the Roundabout).
Finally, there's a user-contribution database that may give you clues on which seat fits well into your vehicle:
http://www.carseatdata.org/
Good luck on your new baby! It'll be an experience unlike any other!
We got the 'infant carrier" system. It was a separate stroller and infant seat (up to 40 lbs), but there was also a infant "carrier" that snapped into either one. When you snapped it into the infant seat, it was rear facing. As stated previously, when it was time to get out of the car all you did was push and hold some buttons and you grabbed the whole carrier by the handle and carried with you or snapped it into the stroller. The carrier could be put down on a table, floor, etc. and it rocked easily with your foot on it (use to do this a lot while waiting for my wife in doctor's office post birth).
I forget the brand we got, but I highly, highly recommend it for parent sanity.
Tony, I agree, the infant carrier system is great. But it may not apply in my case. It would be too much gear for me to carry since my wife and I are having Twins. Experts advice getting a double stroller and individual carseats to save on space. It's great for singletons, though! Again, thanks for your feedback. See you back in the PF forum.
Congrats and happiness!
I _hope_ this won't be a serious problem but you should probably look into this sooner rather than later: A lot of infant seats have trouble fitting into certain vehicle positions. That is, they end up bumping into the vehicle's front seats. This will depend on the seat you get, the height of your second row seat, and the positioning of the front seats. So this could affect your choice of seat.
Usually Babies'R'Us and/or Toys'R'Us, and some of the better baby stores, let you take the demo seat out to your car to see if it'll fit. And I know that both stores will let you return the seat as long as it hasn't been really used and comes back with original packaging.
If you don't already have it, I'd recommend the "Baby Bargains Book". It's a bit preachy and heavily opinionated, but it does have good reviews and some money-saving tips on everything from strollers to baby foods to bottles to clothes to cribs. Their web site is at:
http://www.babybargainsbook.com
By the way, I am not a Toyota salesperson (I didn't even like my salesperson), just putting in my two cents worth!!!
Thanks!
by end of the month. Other dealers in the ny area have offered me a base black or beige which i passed on to wait for
my preferred silver.
2. Most cars can handle mildly rutted dirt roads so if this rigg
can't do a little better we have a major problem. I don't think
we do.
3. this pricing structure will not last forever ,I love this car but
I am haviing second thoughts,bet others are too. Time is our
friend with price. maybe wait is not such a bad thing
Do all the MDX have only one muffler?
I've seen some pics on www.acuramdx.org showing
some MDX with two mufflers which is one at each side.
But from the Acura website, it seems that all MDX only come with one muffler.
Does anybody know why?
Thank you.
But this one really looks real.
http://www.acuramdx.org/forums/upload/MDX4.jpg
My wife and I are aslo looking at the 2001 PAthfinder and the 2002 Explorer. Both are selling well below MSRP, closer to invoice. I agree that Acura is blowing it big time. They have a nice SUV but it's in a competative market segment. With the discounts on every other brand and model out there, all Acura is doing is allowing their dealers to screw a bunch of customers. Not a good way to start (or continue) relationships with customers.
I wish more of us told acura to screw their over and above MSRP prices. But this car goes to a segment that buys what they want when they want it, so I doubt if there's any hope of a mass uprising!
Anyway, good luck with the Allroad!
Matt
We needed a car now. We have been making do for quit a while. Waiting until next October (the consensus guess for the 2002 release) is out of the question for us. And no one can acurately predict if the dealers will discount then either. After much research and soul searching we chose the MDX as the best car for us. In my particular case the dealer charges full MSRP for the car. However they throw in the first two years of factory recommended maintenance free on all vehicles they sell, including MDX. They have no forced accessories and sell the accessories you want at a discount. Depending on circumstance they may even give some accessories free, which they did for me. Thus when it was all calculated out, we actually got it for less than current TMV!
I highly recommend the dealership, John Eagle Acura in Houston: www.houstonacura.com
Acura is probably speeding up production a little bit. Some folks "higher up on the waiting list" having probably lept off. The stock market fall can not be a good thing either...
I have seen many times in the past where a "hot car" has cooled and salesguys who pulled "premium charge" shtick have had to resort to actaully calling around and asking for your business -- what a concept.
Hang in their aip00 -- the longer we wait the better position we are in.
Any thoughts?
Other problem #1: on recent start ups, I noticed my trip computer doubled and then tripled my average mpg and miles travelled (from ~17 to 32 to 64 mpg, and ~200 to 400 to (rolled over) 1000 miles). Anyone else have that problem? Both reset automatically on my first refill, no problems with that. Btw, averaged 17.4 mpg over first 234 miles, premium gas, mostly freeway driving in the rain between 30 and 65 mph, couple of local shopping runs mixed in.
Other problem #2: My Trip A and Trip B odometers won't reset. Any tips/clues on that would be appreciated, else I'll just add it to the list of things for the dealer to look at.
Once the vehicle warms up and you come to a stop (foot on the brake in drive) with the AC compressor running, it makes a very noticable humming sound. If you turn off the AC, shift to nuetral or drive, let off the brake, or give it gas to increase the rpm's, the noise goes away. The warmer the vehicle gets, the louder it is. It gets to the point I can feel a vibration in the steering wheel and brake pedal. Needless to say, it is very annoying.
I took it into the dealer for a number of relatively minor problems. They did not take this noise seriously. I took it back a second time. They agreed they could hear it. They tested their demo MDX and told me it did it too, so that's the way they are. After another week of listening to it, I called the dealer, who is now supposed to be checking with Acura. Have heard nothing in four days.
I saw one other post with this problem. I live in Florida and suspect most others aren't running the AC yet. I have owned 4 previous Honda's, including currently a 2000 Odyssey, none of which made a noise like this. It's not acceptable in a cheaper car, much less this vehicle. It's bad enough I will sell the car if they can't fix it.