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Mazda 3 Transmission Problems



  • ag13ag13 Posts: 2
    I had my trans replaced under warranty at 19k miles. It would pop out of 2nd gear by itself. Now at 42k my motor has bad bearings and mazda is denying the warranty work.
  • "2) told my sister some bull story about that always happens and that you have to shift into 2nd and quickly shift into reverse"

    Actually, that is a way to save your clutch. That is what you are supposed to do. The dealer told you right. I used to own a Ford Ranger Manual and when I replaced my clutch, my mechanic told me whenever I put it in reverse, you should put it in 2nd. That will save your clutch from having to replace it sooner than needed. I never had an issue with my clutch after that.

    Now as to the respect issue, I can't answer to that. He probably had a bad day.

    Best of luck :)
  • kenny15kenny15 Posts: 1
    Hi, everyone. I had 2008 mazda 3 5 door S touring for about 6 months, with 5000 miles now. so I decided to change the ATF. I know I don't have to change that early, but just want to keep the ATF clean after break-in. so I drained the ATF from the ATF pan, I know I drained only about one third of total ATF, roughly 3 Quarts. after that put the drain plug back in and started add some new ATF. Unfortunately, I made a mistake, pour the Honda ATF-Z1 into my mazda 3. I know my mazda 3 use the M-V type of ATF(which is synthetic type). what happen now is there are two types of ATF in my mazda3. after driving it about 100 mile, the engine light came on. does anyone know if the ATF could be the reason? and what should i do aobut it.
  • badselfbadself Posts: 39
    ATF incompatibility is the likely culprit. You could be looking at total transmission failure. I'd make sure the trans is drained and filled with the proper fluid prior to arriving at the dealer and playing dum.

    Why would you drive it knowing you introduced the wrong fluid?
  • gib11gib11 Posts: 47
    First, I dont understand why you would flush the ATF so early. Doesn't make sense to me.
    Two. You should know that car manufacturers are very pointy went it comes to lubricant. Using other type than the one recommended is a no no IMO.
    That said, I hope nothing is broke. Good luck!
  • I am in Toronto Canada. I bought a new Mazda 3 GT automatic in May 2004 after getting rid of a Volkswagon Jetta 2.0 turbo which needed 4 new turbos within 60k.
    Everything was great with my Maxda until approx 60k kms. The transmission wouldn't shift from 2nd to 3rd without the rev counter going nuts and eventually I couldn't get it past 3rd gear.
    I took it to Mazda and they told me to my amazement that it needed a new transmission. So I thought ok, I guess it happens now and again.
    At 76k kms it did the same thing so it lasted for 16k kms this time.
    My Mazda Dealer was very non-chalent about it and when I expressed concern that my 100k Warranty would soon expire and if the transmission went again I would have to pay for a new one, he told me not to be so negative and that my case was unusual as they had very few transmission problems and to have to need 2 new ones by the 76k kms mark had never happened before and that the chances of getting another defective transmission is slim to none.

    So not sure what to do. Thought I would try Customer Service for Mazda and try and get them to agree to extend the warranty for the transmission only. (That's what VW did for my Jetta). I am open to suggestions.
    Mazda have lost a future customer though.
  • lt08lt08 Posts: 1
    Hello - just bought an 08 because I loved my 04. question: I use the manual mode quite a bit, for better control. My 2004 always functioned correctly, downshifting on its own to a stop and then drop to 1st. I bough the 08 and noticed that some times, not all the time, it would NOT go to first but stay in 2nd, even at a full stop. I've been telling my dealership about this, have video on my phone when it happens. They've first told me they could not replicate the "problem" and to record it and bring it in as soon as it happens. Unfortunately, it is sporatic that I can't just bring it in when it happens as I don't know when its gonna happen and if I have to drive to the dealership, I'm certainly going to have to get out of 2nd gear. Long story short, I finally figured out how to replicate it, showed a service tech and they finally agreed to look closer at it. Today I get a call that they tell me, actually the transmission is SUPPOSED to do that - if driving in 2nd gear and come to a stop, it should stay in second gear? Apparently the user manual says this? So my 2004 operated wrong for 4 years? The majority of the time, the car does automatically go to 1st gear at a stop, and about 20% or so of the time it stays in second. Now they are trying to tell me that that is correct so I'm now saying, FINE, then 80% of the time, the transmission is malfunctioning???

    anyone out there having similar issues? Any year of Mazda? Help - don't want to be screwed over with a faulty transmission that they think because I'm a woman I don't know what I'm talking about - that is certainly how this has been going. First they agreed it was a problem they'd like to check out, and now apparently it is a "feature" of the car I didn't know about??? :confuse: :lemon:
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    I'm probably not much help, but I seem to recall my last vehicle that had an "auto-manual", a 2004 Mistubishi Outlander, would let me start from a stop in 2nd gear. I understand that people often do that in winter weather for better traction. For example, Mercedes transmission and perhaps others are programmed to start in 2nd gear when in winter mode. However, I don't remember if my car would stay in 2nd if I came to a stop in 2nd. I'd think I would want it to stay wherever I put it regardless of my speed. I did use manual control quite a bit, but I would generally coast to a stop in auto mode instead of stepping down each gear manually for something so mundane as a stop sign or red light.

    Please elaborate. How exactly do you get it to remain in 2nd vs drop down to 1st?
  • it was the engine not me
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I use the manual mode quite a bit, for better control. My 2004 always functioned correctly, downshifting on its own to a stop and then drop to 1st. I bough the 08 and noticed that some times, not all the time, it would NOT go to first but stay in 2nd, even at a full stop.

    If I am reading your post properly your Mazda3 is an automatic with a manual mode and the situation occurs when you use the manual and not the automatic mode. True?
  • I have a 2008 Mazda 3. I have the same transmission as yours and mine always defaults to 1st gear when I come to a stop. If Mazda doesn't fix it I would complain. Try another dealership. Also ask them to point out in the manual where it states this is normal for the transmission to operate this way. If I remember correctly the Sales Manager at the Dealer where I bought my 3 told me it should always default back to 1st when you come to a stop when in Manual mode. I don't use my manual that frequently only when I need to pass or am on a steep grade. I would definately go to other Mazda's and have them look at the car. It's worth a try. :D
  • I have a 2008 Mazda 3 I touring VE. I love the car, and purchased it after owning a 1997 Mazda Protege for nearly 12 years that gave me no problems at all. My 3 is great , but I am concerned when I place the car in Park, it rolls forward about an inch or two. In addition to that sometimes when I put the car in reverse it is rough shifting. Sometimes it shifts so hard into reverse it sounds like I hit something. The car was purchased in May and only has 2400 miles on it? Is this normal? Does anyone else have this same problem? :confuse:
  • I do understand that Mazda is owned by Ford now and merged in 1992, but I think your above statements are untrue. I had a 1997 Mazda Protege and put a 140,000 miles on it and other than normal maintenance I only replaced a thermostat. In addition Mazda 3's and Miatas are still made and manufactured in Japan. I would agree with your statements above if I were dealing with a Mazda 6 or Tribute. As they are made at a Ford Plant in Michigan.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Mazda is owned by Ford
    Not quite true, Ford owns a controlling share of Mazda, I believe its 33%.
  • No. I use the automatic all the time and eventually it struggles through the gears.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Is the issue worse when parking/backing out on a hill? Do you use the parking brake? Set the parking brake before you put it in Park, and when backing out, put it in Reverse before you release the parking brake.
  • I have had a similar problem when starting up the car. I has happened to me twice already and the car only has 10,800 miles on it. I will turn the car on and let off the clutch then the engine starts to shake and stall out. I have to repeat a few times to get the car started. I have yet to take it to a dealer yet b/c i'm sure they'll tell me they can't find anything wrong with it. But it is a bit frustrating
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    has happened to me twice already and the car only has 10,800 miles on it. I will turn the car on and let off the clutch then the engine starts to shake and stall out. I have to repeat a few times to get the car started.

    Twice in 11K miles does not sound too bad to me. If you are concerned, you might want to document each time it happens with as much detailed information as you can get. For example, was the car cold or wet? Were there any squealing or other sounds coming from the engine? When it is finally running does the problem go away? Ideally, you want the mechanic to be able to reproduce the problem and if that's not possible to give enough of an idea of the symptoms of the problem to narrow down the search. You could also ask for a diagnostic test to see if it turns anything up.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Ditto. Not to insult your skillz, but I'm sure I stalled out more than twice in every car I've had with a manual transmission (three so far). It took me a while to get the feel for my Mazda3 which I've had for a year now. It's not bad, but it's just not as forgiving perhaps as some of the Hondas I test drove. Even still sometimes I have a little bit of a rough start and feel like a dumb teenager.
  • I have an 06 and over the past couple months there have been issues of totally not being able to get the car into gear. First it was reverse now recently it was 1st&2nd then even 3rd. It has been to the dealer twice with no findings or repair. I was advised if it happens again have it immediately towed to them without even tryin to get it into that gear myself so they could see what is happening.

    anyone else having these issues or any ideas?? I have driven manual transmissions for many years and have never had this happen!!
  • Was the outcome of your complaint against Mazda about the 3's clutch? I have a 2007 Mazda 3 that need a new clutch disc, throwout bearing, pressure plate, and pilot bearing. The dealer says none of this is covered under my 100,000 mille warrantee and it will cost $1168, plus taxes.

    I had previously owned three Hondas, two Civics and an Accord, all of which I drove over $125k with no problems whatsoever. The Civics were both manuals and I never had to replace the clutches.

    I presume the manufacturer/dealer with tell me I don't know how to drive a stick, and that will piss me off. If that's the case, why did my starter already fail this month too (that's under warrantee)? Was I failing to turn the key properly as well?

  • so far I do not have an answer---they have not isolated the problem
  • I have CAI on my 2004 2,3 also. What I did is my CAI came with 2 pieces, I just use the one that connect to the TB. Kind of making it a short ram and the filter would be directly behind the fan. Yeah the air seem little hotter but have the advantage of air blown to the filter continuously. Only 1 thing to watch out is the filter might fall if u have a small one. I did got a bigger filter, and it is kind of holding on top of the tranny... hope this help.
  • I have a 2004 3 hatchback..had to replace the clutch @ 34,000 miles last year around oct 07..they blamed it on "not knowing how to shift" as well (not true all my previous vehicles were sticks that lasted forever...). The whole clutch seized up and got corroded not sure how that happened ended up costing me 1100 bucks.. warranty didnt cover it of course..
    as for your starter i'm sure the warranty will cover that. i have not had any other issues with my car besides the clutch..except for a broken motor mount that was replaced for free...
  • I have a 2004 Mazda 3 sedan 2.3L 5-speed manual. Had the terrible misfortune of being 90 miles from home (48,500 miles on the odometer) when my clutch gave out. I learned to drive stick on this car, but still, 50k? Isn't that low even by American car standards? Going to cost me $1100+. I was a pretty quick study when it came to the manual transmission, and have not been abusive to the car. Is Mazda just throwing in wimpy clutches?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Isn't that low even by American car standards?

    I love it, your mazda clutch goes only 50K mi and you turn it into a way to bash the US manufacturers. I have owned 4 american cars with manuals, never replaced a clutch on any of them. These cars had 110K to 150K on them when I got rid of them.

    However, the life of a clutch is very dependent on where and how you drive. Obviously a lot of stop and go traffic means more wear as does resting your left foot on the clutch pedal.
  • funny you mentioned that.. i had a chevy s-10 prior to my mazda 3.. the 5-speed on my s-10 was built like a rock and lasted close to 150,000 miles although all the plastic parts on the rest of my s-10 broke or fell off over time.. that was my only gripe on it...
    I do know the 3 is still made entirely in japen i'm just surprised that they would do such a crappy job on the clutch assembly on such a hot car at the moment...having my clutch go out @ 34,000 miles is ridiculous... :mad:
  • Mazda won't budge on my 2007 3i that just lost its clutch at 29k miles. My repair will be $1100 and I need to pick it up tomorrow, since my rental car is costing me too much to keep up this fight.

    Corporate customer service has not been helpful at all, stringing me out before finalizing their rejection of my warrantee request, today, two weeks after the car was taken in for service.

    I filed a report with the Better Business Bureau today (case #1364515) and will be contacting the attorney general soon.

    My previous 3 cars have all been Hondas, two Civics and an Accord, the Civics both manuals. I drove all of them in excess of 125k with no transmission/clutch problems whatsoever. I haven't changed my driving habits or home address in ten years.

    My Mazda is a poor imitation of a Honda. My Honda dealer, who actually helped me pick out my Mazda at the dealer next door, based on economics only, is interested in helping me get out of it now.
  • Hi Friends,
    I own a 2004 Mazda3 4dr with triptronic transmission and around 150K on it. Since yesterday, I am getting a strange problem in the car. When I put the car from "parking" to "reverse", the car gives a big jolt. And an "AT" code shows up on the screen. I check the manual book and "AT" relates to transmision axle issues.

    I took it to a local mechanic and he said probably the transmission needs to be rebuilt and cost would be around $2000 CAD. I already have spent around 1200 CAD this month on the car and I am broke with this new trouble.

    $500 on winter tires
    $400 on back struts
    $300 on rotors and brake pad change.

    I tried to look in google, and came to this site/thread where the user posted the exact problem but nobody really gave the correct answer to the issue:

    I would appreciate if you guys think that this is a transmission issue and if there's any alternative like where can i get a used transmission etc???? I still drive the car to work (100kms) everyday and the mechanic said it should not cause any issue but what do you guys think as I am a bit worried driving it on the highway everyday.Though the car gives no trouble at all except that initial jolt when you start the car.

  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    2004 Mazda3 4dr with triptronic transmission and around 150K ... When I put the car from "parking" to "reverse", the car gives a big jolt. And an "AT" code shows ... I took it to a local mechanic and he said probably the transmission needs to be rebuilt and cost would be around $2000 CAD

    Before forking out $2K I'd get a second opinion from a Mazda dealer. Being in Canada at this time of year, a drop in temperature may be contributing to your shift problems. My 2002 Mazda Protege5 acts differently in the cold. Try warming the car a little bit more before driving. Also, consider having the transmission fluid changed if you have not done so recently.
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