Mazda 3 Transmission Problems



  • auttierocksauttierocks Member Posts: 1
    Perhaps, but people still come here to find answers. So it is helpful, even if the original post was 4 years ago.
  • markcoltrinmarkcoltrin Member Posts: 7
    I purchased a 2006 3 about a yr and a half ago from my dealer that I work with in dc. I typically buy his high mile cars off him at a good price. Recently the trans starts to shift into 3 from 5th and the eng light comes on. Sometimes the AT light comes on then goes off. This has been an issue for about 3 months or so. My dealer reads the codes tells me to get a speed sensor code p0715. Replace that and it drives good for about two weeks. Eng light comes back on my dealer tells me to go to mazda dealer ok then I take it there and they come up with new code p0734. tell me to get new trans and spend 3k on a 4k car. My trans guy says that its a brain issue or bad speed sensor. He is still researching issue. Car dives fine. Every now and then eng light comes on then I park car and it goes away. Once and a while it shifts into 3 but only once in last month. IDEAS?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Hopefully, your "trans guy" can clear up the issue as you appear to be getting multiple codes (P0715, P0734) referring to the transmission.

    What kind of mileage does your 2006 have?
  • markcoltrinmarkcoltrin Member Posts: 7
    I need to circle back to my trans guy after the holidays. He does this for a living 20 plus yrs. At dealer by day and nights and weekends his own shop. He thinks its the brains or replaced senser is the issue the dealer
    that took it to stands behind saying you need a new trans. The car has 97k on it. I am a mech and I am along with the person that I work part time with a master mech are getting reddy to pull off t belt water pump. Madza North Amer I plan to call them back on Tuesday. The first time they where no help. IDEAS?
  • cliffindauscliffindaus Member Posts: 1
    I have had my Mazda 3 i touring since November 2009 and have done 18000 miles. My clutch burnt out too. Dealer said that this was normal wear and tear and not covered under the warranty. I have driven manual cars for 22 years and this is the first clutch that has ever given out on me. I called Mazda Customer Service line and then basically said tough its not covered. Going to complain to whoever I can.
  • ejhayes1ejhayes1 Member Posts: 11
    Mine went at 33K (I have postings back up in this forum somewhere.). I paid $850 for a new clutch and resurfacing of the flywheel at an outside Japanese car mechanic. (incidentally right after that, one motor mount blew - that was covered under warranty).

    About 2,000 miles later, I traded the car in. I did not want to deal with anything else.
  • mbinoaklandmbinoakland Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 mazda "3" 2.3L (without turbo) that I have owned for about 3 months now. The car has 33000 Miles on it and is a blast to drive. Here is my issue... when the engine and trans (auto) are cold, right after starting in the morning my car seems like it has tons of power. The acceleration felt in first, second and third gears is amazing. The shift points (not using tiptronic) are crisp and powerful and the car will really throw you back in the seat.....That being said, after the car has run for more than 45 - 60 seconds, or I have driven more than 3/4 of a mile it's like my car loses a lot of the performance I just mentioned. The engine temp guage at that point is about 1/4 past cold on its way to the usual 1/2 way point where it almost never gets hotter. At this point my car seems to have soft shifts and the acceleration in 1st, 2nd or 3rd just is not as powerful. A few times when accelating hard on a warm engine from a dead stop I thought I felt a shutter or stumble from the trans but not sure if the tires were slightly slipping. All in all the car drives very nice - but I want that feeling of when i first start it up.

    Couple of things... the strong acceleration and quick shifting is very reproduceable every morning but ONLY while the engine is cold. Shutting down and waiting 5 minutes does not work. I do not have any check engine lights or trans fault lights on and I just had the trans fluid flushed at a Mazda dealership 2000 miles ago because I thought the fluid was very dark and dirty looking (new fluid still looks good - and the problem I am having was there before and after the fluid flush, if anything the car was a slight bit better after the flush). If I use the tiptronic manual shift and let off the gas like shifting a manual the trans catches and shifts nice and quick like you would expect. I have had a trans shop put a scanner on the trans but they found nothing.

    I know, I know what some of you are gonna say - should have bought a speed 3 with a manual trans - wish I would have now but this car is what I have and I like it.

    Is this the way Mazda engineers designed the car?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Based on your description I suspect there is nothing wrong. The shifts in an automatic should feel smooth and nearly imperceptible. If the car is starting to stumble that could caused by the spark plugs, wires, mass air flow sensor, or other issues. A diagnostic may be a good idea at that point.

    MY crystal ball says your next vehicle will be a manual. ;)
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    edited June 2011
    After hearing various complaints (shift delays, gear selection, harsh shifts, and outright failures) about about Automatic transmissions from many manufacturers (and the costs of repairs when out of warranty) I've got just one more reason to be glad I'm a self-professed manual transmission bigot.

    True, in this era of hydraulic clutch linkages there seems to be a higher incidence of premature clutch failures (improperly configured or insufficiently bled at the factory?) than ever before (still a very low percentage), but on the whole the latest generation of automatics seem to be far less robust than the TorqueFlights and TurboHydromatics of old and many times more expensive to fix than putting in a new clutch. As autonomous there seems to be a manual transmission in the future of many automatic drivers these days. :)
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 14,944
    After hearing various complaints (shift delays, gear selection, harsh shifts, and outright failures) about about Automatic transmissions from many manufacturers (and the costs of repairs when out of warranty) I've got just one more reason to be glad I'm a self-professed manual transmission bigot.

    As am I.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2018 330i xDrive

  • mtn_mannmtn_mann Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact problem w/ my 06 Mazda3. The car shifts into 3rd and the only way to get it to reset is to pull over and turn off the car then restart. My car has been doing this once in a while for the last 9 mths. The AT light now stays on and the Manual gated shifter doesn't work at all. I also had the code checked and it came up as P0715. My mechanic gave me the option to get it check out by the Mazda dealer. I'm sure they want to replace the tranny. I fully believe it is a sensor/computer problem. The hard part is going to convince the dealership that. I too am looking for some advice.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    edited July 2011
    The AT light now stays on and the Manual gated shifter doesn't work ... code ... came up as P0715
    P0715 = Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction

    My mechanic gave me the option to get it check out by the Mazda dealer. I'm sure they want to replace the tranny. I fully believe it is a sensor/computer problem.
    The code indicates a bad speed sensor which is affecting the transmission.
    The question is it only the sensor or is it more than that?
    Unless you trust your mechanic implicitly, you may want to get a second opinion.

    Being a 2006, are you still covered under your Mazda warranty?
  • caleb9caleb9 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2009 Mazda 3 with 68,000 miles. For a month now I occasionally (20 percent of the time?) have a problem shifting into second gear with my manual transmission. Mazda told me all they could do is change the transmission for $3,000 because they don't dig into them. A transmission shop couldn't find a problem. The only thing online I found is to double clutch, but with it only happening 20 percent of the time, I don't think that's good answer. It will grind and eventually shift but I'm worried this will damage the gear or linkage. Any ideas?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    edited July 2011
    I've run across complaints such as yours upon occasion on various Mazda related boards, and each time I do I recommend a simple gear lube change to Redline. In every case (and I do mean every-single-case) the change of the lubricating oil has fixed the issue.

    Keep us posted on how you make out. :)
  • lizzzedlizzzed Member Posts: 4
    Hi Sunset 19 looks like you haven't logged in since your problem with ur Mazda was fixed, I am in the same predicament. I am after my warranty, got solenoid C stuck code, they replaced it. Driving on freeway went down to 3rd gear and stayed there almost causing a wreck. Took it back to mechanic saying code is gear 3 incorrect ratio and transmission needs to be replaced. I was hoping if you happen to login that you could tell me if you shopped for your transmission via online, etc. and/or how did you find a low cost with good warranty replacement.
  • markcoltrinmarkcoltrin Member Posts: 7
    Mark Coltrin again, I have a Mazda 3 -2006 with 100k on engine now. I have the Mazada 3 Trans, Not Clutch, trans, I had this issue come up on and off now for 8 months or so. I have a trans guy, and he states that the , brain has a comm problem with the trans. The car wash value is 3k. The dealer wants 3 k for a new trans. The AT light now stays on , and sometimes the engine light comes on , but It will go away. Mazda north america has no clue , nor does the dealer. We replaced what needed to be repalced , but same problem. Car drives great , I will just re set code wend I trade in.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    edited September 2011
    "I have the Mazada 3 Trans, Not Clutch, trans..."

    What does that mean?
  • markcoltrinmarkcoltrin Member Posts: 7
    "I have the Mazada 3 Trans, Not Clutch, trans

    Mazda Calls it "Mazda Speed".
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    edited September 2011
    Are you trying to say you have an automatic transmission?

    FWIW, I've never heard of a MazdaSpeed transmission, just a MazdaSpeed car, most of which have true manual transmissions.

    Edit: I just did a little checking, and unless I'm missing something, Mazda has never called an Automatic transmission a "Mazda Speed" transmission. Furthermore, all MazdaSpeed3 models have been sold exclusively with a true manual transmission.
  • markcoltrinmarkcoltrin Member Posts: 7
    Yes, I just say that I just say that , sorry!
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    The AT light now stays on , and sometimes the engine light comes on , but It will go away. Mazda north america has no clue , nor does the dealer.

    Yes, I just say that I just say that , sorry!

    Seems like it's not only Mazda North America and the dealer that has no clue ... :D
  • lizzzedlizzzed Member Posts: 4
    I fully believe it is a computer problem. I felt uneasy buying a new tranny. When I disconnect my battery it resets and my car shifts thru all 5 gears for awhile. then goes back to the gear 3 incorrect ratio. If it was tranny, wouldn't it not be able to shift at all? Or am I wrong? I took my car out of the shop before replacing transmission, had to pay $450 for this. I STILL have a broken 2007 Mazda 3 that has a Gear 3 incorrect ratio. I am looking for a computer tech for cars who can check this out.
  • siebensieben Member Posts: 1
    This same exact thing is currently helping me right now, they recommended me replacing my transmission because two of the the bands were missing from the gears. It was going to be 2500 to replace the bands so they suggested a brand new transmission because its 3000. But when they jump started my car, it erased the codes and the light turned off. I'm waiting for the light to turn back on because its still under warranty from the dealership just not for very long. I was wondering, when you apply heavy acceleration does your car take a long time to switch from 3rd to 4th gear, mine will switch when I hit speeds of 75-80 mph?
  • markcoltrinmarkcoltrin Member Posts: 7
    To pay 2-3 k for a trans is not worth it for a 3 k wholesale car. My trans guy says that I should keep dring car. I just replaced all belts and water pump. Car runs strong. Its a madza problem that they dont want to help with. When I dump car I will re set all the codes on car.
  • whitesgaragewhitesgarage Member Posts: 1
    What you are experiencing is a computer, or sensor failure. The bands aren't missing, and if the codes where pulled, they didnt write them down. Sounds like a bunch of inexperienced techs. When the computer gets mixed signals, it goes into "limp mode" put the trans in a gear, usually 3rd, so you can get to a dealer. If you clear the codes and it shifts fine through the gears, then goes into limp mode, I would say you have a problem with a shift solenoid, or speed sensor, or something like that. if the speed sensors are not functioning properly the will make the computer think it is broke. And most shops, from my experience will try to sell you a transmission, no matter what is wrong.
  • daughterscar1daughterscar1 Member Posts: 1
    My daughter has a 2004 Mazda 3 - When she put's the car in reverse it feels like the bottom of her car just fell out or that she was hit from behind - Also, both the "AT" and "Engine" lights are on... Can you tell me what the AT light means and what is possibly wrong with her car? It has 90K miles on. When I took it for a test ride, it seemed as if the car wouldn't shift gears automatically and her "manual" shifting isn't working either - if I remember correctly, there was a light on displyaing the No. 1 - as if the car was in 1st gear manually
    Thanks for your time and help - Look forward to hearing from you soon
  • brunodbrunod Member Posts: 5
    This is EXACTLY what my 2004 Mazda3 did to me. Had to replace the transmission.. $3000 sorry!!
  • edmundsreaderedmundsreader Member Posts: 1

    I've got a similar issues, I'm not seeing what your resolution was. My car is still at AAMCO.

    My issue sounds similar. I am driving on the highway, the car jerks and my transmission lights on the dash turn off. The gear and gear number lights go dark. A few seconds later it all comes on on 3rd gear, the car revs and the AT light comes on.

    They've had my car for 3 weeks. It's been at the shop, a mazda tech looked at it, the computer codes were downloaded, it's been to a dealership and is now back. They think it's a short. But it's become a time life mystery.

    The computer checked out ok. BTW

  • markcoltrinmarkcoltrin Member Posts: 7
    Mark again, this is a mazda problem and they wont own up to it. The person that I need to talk to , the madza techs, mazda will not let you talk to them. Its not a trans problem, its a brain vs senser problem. To buy a new trans is a waste for a 3k for a 2006 (3) with 100kmile car. I not sure what the at light means? Thansk
  • lizzzedlizzzed Member Posts: 4
    Well, after a long 2 month suffering with my 2007 Mazda 3 which I was ready to trade-in with a $2500 ended up with a new transmission! and it runs like a baby again. I couldn't come to grips that I needed a new transmission at 83,000 miles. I would disconnect my battery it would reset and shift gears for a little while then go back to the 3rd gear stuck ratio so that was why I believed it was a brain/sensor/computer thing. I had changed the pulse generator sensor at home and it still didn't shift. I read every forum, researched, called Mazda mechanics (they wouldn't help).

    I had already mastered the art of driving with 3 gears to work and local driving which was insane. My stepfather finally came to the rescue asking how long was i gonna wait to fix my car or trade it in? He called his mechanic for quote, they found a low mile transmission and fixed it. His mechanic said Mazda 3's are always having tranny problems, he said, "no good". Honda, Toyota, Nissan - no Mazda!! lol, i'm laughing now. MY Nissan ran 250k miles still like brand new when i got new 350z was great til it got totaled, I thought what a great lookin' Mazda 3 this is i had to have it, sunroof, blue...but has cost me this pain in 1 year of having it. Well for now, it is back on the road it is a great looking car and the inside is perfect for me..I have it working as background in television so not a total loss.
  • fdlopezfdlopez Member Posts: 3
    My '05 Mazda 3 starts on 3rd gear and it is very slow in the beginning as if I am barely pressing on the gas. It goes to 4th gear around 30/35 mph. I see "AT" and the engine light on too. Also when put it on the manual transmission mode, I don't see the gears in the dashboard. Has anybody had this happen to them? Or can anybody help me in understanding what this is about?

  • lizzzedlizzzed Member Posts: 4
    yes, all of this happened to me. The end result sorry to say was a new transmission. I was in denial for like 2 months, I put in a new pulse generator sensor. I took it to first mechanic he said it was a solenoid stuck, they changed it, one day later it downshifted to 3rd gear on freeway almost making me wreck and wouldn't shift past 4th. Everything you are saying is what happened to my car after I drove it locally in 3rd gear for a month and a half, there wasn't anymore power and I finally had to take it in. My stepdad helped me and I got a new transmission with low miles and it is working like brand new. The mechanic told me Mazdas were known for their bad transmissions.
  • fdlopezfdlopez Member Posts: 3
    oh man! was replacing the transmission expensive? i know its not cheap...what about getting a new pulse generator sensor and the solenoid, was that expensive too?
  • missy32missy32 Member Posts: 5
    Yes. The EXACT same thing happen to me. Took it to aamco n they had to tke it apart n said the code reading solenoid was stuck is because mazda cars go into like a "safe" mode n will drive in 3rd gear til u get it fixed. My result was the transmission was slowly coming apart n I had to get a whole new one..well rebuilt one. End cost was $3000. But aamco charged it to an account that u can apply for n make paymnts instead of payibg all at once. My mazda 3 was only 3 years old. The fact that I had to replace the tranny before my break pads is rediculous but apprently im not the only one. Good luck.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,709
    Wow, one of my neighboors down the street has a 2006. I hope they don't have this problem too. How many miles on yours before it died? That's another reason that I only buy manual transmissions!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    edited November 2011
    "That's another reason that I only buy manual transmissions!"

    While my primary reason for driving exclusively manual transmissions is that I never took the time to learn to drive an automatic (can't get used to the whole two-pedal thing); also counting among my reasons is they're more fun to drive, they typically have a lower initial cost for the car, and much lower (often much-much lower) maintenance costs over the life of the car. :shades:
  • fdlopezfdlopez Member Posts: 3
    I took it to an aamco this morning and they told me that the code was reading that the solenoid was getting stuck and that the car would go into the safe mode and that's why it's starting on 3rd gear. I am not sure anymore if I should go ahead and replace it from all of the feedback that I've been getting. It looks as though that the solenoid getting stuck problem has happened to others and eventually they had to replace the entire automatic transmission. How is the car doing now that it has a new/rebuilt tranmission?
  • missy32missy32 Member Posts: 5
    Well my car only had 46000 miles whn it frst strtd having a slight jerk in shifting then finally went out at 62000 miles. So far with the rebuilt tranny its been ok. I love my mazda but in the future im never getting another one as much as id like to. Aamco will tell u that there gonna hav to tke aprt the tranny n find out the problem but u have to be sure your gonna go thru with the repair cuz if not your still gonna have to pay for the labor n putting itbck tgether which comes to about 2000. After all my pprwrk came bck my tranny parts only cost about $ 800, it was the labor that raised it to $3000. Unless u have the money id apply fr the credit thing first n see if u get approved before u say yes to repairs cuz if u dnt, your stuck with coming up w that money before they give u your car back.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I've got to tell you, I don't know whether to offer advice or condolences or anything else for that matter. Why? Because if what you wrote is English, it is unreadable.

    Please, if you're coming here for advice, write your posts in such a way that those of us whom might be able to offer some help can read and comprehend your thoughts.
  • missy32missy32 Member Posts: 5
    Sorry im use to texting n abbreviating my words to respond faster and this email was sent to me so I just thought id reply, which im doing on my phone. Didnt think it would be That hard to read shortened words.
  • dutchmen1957dutchmen1957 Member Posts: 1
    My daughter has a 2006 3i 2.0
    Would not start in park.
    In the engine compartment where the shift cable meets the shift linkage, water gets in there and it gets rust and corosion at that point.
    It will not let the cable travel far enough to engage Park safety switch.
    Take a piece of copper tubing about 2 feet long and hold one end at that point
    and spray some PB Blaster or WD 40 down the tube then work the shifter through its full range several times.
    It may take 2 or 3 times for for a few days, this should fix it.
  • hphopsoldrhphopsoldr Member Posts: 1
    I have 8500 miles on my car and already needs a new clutch...absolutely ridiculous. Mazda claims that it is a wear product and not covered. I have previously owned a car and ran it over 100,000 miles as a teenager before having to replace the clutch. I would love to see a recall on the cheapest clutch ever made it would seem.
  • moogoogaipanmoogoogaipan Member Posts: 3
    I do not know if it is normal or not, but I noticed 2nd gear (manual trans) is extremely touchy in my car (2012 mazda3 2.0l). I have to shift extremely slowly to get my shifter to slip smoothly into second gear. I have driven nothing but manuals for 16 years and this is the first time I have experienced this issue before.

    I had a Mazda dealership mechanic row through the gears and he said it is normal and that I will have to "get used to it."

    Is an extremely touchy / balky 2nd gear normal for these cars?

    I only have 700 miles on my car and I hope this is not a precursor of problems.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesMember Posts: 18,946
    Was this the new Skyactiv 6MT? If so, the shifter was smooth for me in all gears during a recent test drive. No touchiness that I noticed.
  • moogoogaipanmoogoogaipan Member Posts: 3
    No, 5 speed manual transmission.
  • caleb9caleb9 Member Posts: 5
    I have the same problem with my 2009 Mazda 3 manual transmission. I bought it with 52,000 miles on it, and it didn't start until it had around 70,000. It doesn't do it all the time, but it is a little troubling. I took it to a transmission shop, and they took it for a test drive and couldn't find anything. Apparently because it didn't do it for them. The only thing Mazda told me is that they would replace the entire transmission, and since it's out of warranty, I'm not going down that road. I would keep taking it back to Mazda if I were you. Ride in the car with them while they shift to prove it to them! One answer I got online was to double clutch, i.e. shift into neutral and then a second time into second gear. This seems more trouble than it's worth at this point, however, because it doesn't do it all the time.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hmmm, I have no such a problem with my 2009 Mazda3 with the 5-Speed manual.
  • dgehdgeh Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I read most of 359 forums on Mazda3 transmission & clutch problems. My husband & I bought this car, Mazda3 hatchback 2.3L 2007 manual shift. Only 44K...already wear/tear clutch. No warranty cover & we were told by Mazda dealership that clutch kit $1,500, $230 for mobile motor, nitrogen, and our brake pads/rotators in front need to be replaced $510. Total $2,500... I went to Autozone to check honest prices on clutch kit...only $229.?? plus taxes, front pads $22, a pair of rotators $120. Should be under $1,000 plus labor work. I read all of your forums and it made sense why I hate this car since my husband bought it. He refused to trade it in. We still have Honda CRV 2003, it only needs small maintenance & still going strong. I think we should file complaints because I am 360th to complain about Mazda's transmission/clutch.
  • mazdaboy2mazdaboy2 Member Posts: 12
    This is far from a horror story, but nor is it 100% good news. I bought my Mazda 3i 2006 5-speed new and was immediately thrilled - best car I've ever owned, easily. After maybe 18 months I noticed an occasional very alarming brief grind when shifting into 2nd gear. It got more frequent and I took it to the dealer. They were about to tell me they couldn't duplicate it, when it finally did the same thing to the tech driver, twice. So they agreed to rebuild the MT under warranty. (In retrospect, this may have been a case of the local dealer milking Mazda USA for warranty labor hours, because I'm told it would have been cheaper and quicker just to replace it.) Anyway, after that it was improved, but still not quite like new. I'm a decent authority because my previous 300K miles were all 5-speeds, 3 different cars, and none of them acted that way at any time.

    Well, today I'm at 80K miles, and I've just learned to shift slightly differently - rather than jamming it directly from 1 to 2, I pause for a fraction of a second in neutral, kind of "feeling" for the slot. The other gear shifts have no issues. Bottom line, this is still by far the best car I've every owned. I've basically spent zero $ in 6 years other than oil changes and the like (knocking on wood). But there may be a slight design flaw with the MT.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I've communicated with a few folks who've reported the same second gear issue as you, and I've recommended a switch of the gear oil to Red Line. So far at least, each car that's had it's gear oil changed has immediately stopped the second gear grinding.

    For my part I've been using Red Line in my last five cars since they were new; not to improve any second gear issues, but to improved shifting feel, especially during the winter.
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