Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda 3 Transmission Problems



  • I had that type of problem in a chevy malibu it was an 03. It turned out to be the torque inverter. also the change in temperate never helps.
  • Thanks a lot, so how much does it cost to change a torque inverter or where to get it tested if that's causing this issue???

    I searched google for "what is torque inverter", ""change torque inverter" etc but did not got any helpful links.

    Thanks Again!!!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    You didn't get any hits on your google search because there is no such a thing as a "torque inverter". That said, I suspect you're looking for the term, "torque converter". Yes, no?
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,296
    I think that his plasma conduit might need more dilithium crystals.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • Thanks a zillion Shipo!!!
  • wgm4wgm4 Posts: 4
    I have a 04 mazda3 with 89,000 miles on it. It just started jerking going from first to second gear, i dont know whats wrong? I need help lol! If i let it sit there and worm up it doesn't jerk that long like it stops jumping after it calms down. It stays at around 2,000 rpms when i start it. Then it will go down to 1,000 rpms then it wont jerk as bad. Then i drive it for about 5 miles and it stops jerking all together please can anybody help me?
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    I don't know anything about transmissions, but did you check the fluid level?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    04 mazda3 with 89,000 miles on it. It just started jerking going from first to second gear ... Then i drive it for about 5 miles and it stops jerking all

    Sounds like the engine which starts out cold and calms down as it warms up. I wonder if the airflow to the engine or if your ignition system is the source of the problem. You might want to consider a fuel system cleaning or getting a diagnostic.
  • wgm4wgm4 Posts: 4
    Well the check engine light came on and i got it checked out and they said i had a leak in from the gas cap so could that be something? They told me to get a new one
  • wgm4wgm4 Posts: 4
    yes i did and its all good
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Many have found that an engine light could come on if one forgets to tighten the cap after filling up at a gas station. So, a leaky cap does not sound good. Is this related to your earlier post or is this a new problem?

    p.s. not all gas caps are the same so make sure to check before you buying the new one
  • I have a 2005 Mazda 3, auto 4 spd, 2.3 ltr. All of a sudden this morning when I put it in reverse, I get a loud, vibrating noise. ONLY in reverse. All other gears work quiet and smoothly.
    I checked underneath the car; no leads, drips, drools, and pools of fluid. There is no visible damage to anything. All fluid levels are normal and don't smell burnt, and are clear.

    What could this be?

    Hey there;
    My '06 just started doing the exact same thing! Put it in reverse and it starts this vibration, but only in reverse. Did you get an answer or resolve the issue? I have called one dealership and they did not have an answer for me, I will call mine tomorrow when they get in for the day. If you could give me some ideas as to what you have tried it may save me some trouble, that would be nice.
  • I bought a Mazda3 in May 2005. The car is great and had no issues until March 2008. When I was driving in automatic one day, the car would tend to shift from 4th to 3th gear automatically with the AT and engine light come on. Once this happen it is locked into 3rd gear until you come to a complete stop. Once I am at a complete stop it will return to lst gear and the AT light turns off while the engine light remains on. This will happen infrequently. Therefore, I brought into the dealership and they told me the transmission need to be flush. At the time, my car had 45,000 miles on it and they told me i should do it every 30,000 miles. I had the transmission flush and the car work perfectly until November 2008 with the same issue. I brought the car to the dealership again. They called headquarters about the issue. They told me the speed sensor was messing up and they reprogram it. It took about 2 hours and a half to complete the job. About three weeks later the same problem. I did not go back to the dealership until February 2009 for a regular oil change. I explained to them from my diagnosis the transmission tends to shift down when I am accelerating than get off the gas than accelerating again. My theory to them was the computer is thinking i am going full pedal when i just tap the accelerate slightly. The only time the car really should shift down when you are going full throttle. So, they looked at it and they found the sensor wire was going bad which relate to the speed sensor. However, I asked the dealership why did the mechanics found this problem earlier when I brought it in November. They explained the bumps on the road might have cause the car to frequently cause this problem and wouldn't have seen the wire. I didn't really buy into that explanation. To get to my point, the replacement for the wire cause around $90.00 plus labor. Just after a couple of days, the same problem. However, I notice it tends to do it on a bumpy road or inclining up on the road. Also, when I am going up the gears I feel or hear something popping or vibrating like something is force it to pop out of gear. Like I can actually feel the car popping out of gear.

    I know this is a lengthy forum. If anybody has this similar issue, please share and give me advise. I really don't think Mazda is telling me the truth about my car.
  • wgm4wgm4 Posts: 4
    yea its the same problem.I got a new gas cap from the mazda place and it still comes on and then it will go off then it will come on. It comes back on when im at a red light or something
  • SophiaRoseSophiaRose Posts: 2
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,296
    First, turn off your caps lock. Yelling is rude. I'd suspect the knock is either a bad anti-roll bar link or a bad strut. In my case I had a knock and it was the strut.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • I recently had a noise in my 05 mazda 3 that sounded like a hole in the exhaust. I took it to a local mechanic who said nothing was wrong but he heard the noise. I took it to mazda who said my engine mounts were broken and so was my axel. I got both fixed and the noise still persisted. I took it to a body shop who said my air filter had fallen in and when they fixed it the noise stopped. However, it started again and a mechanic family member says he felt a rough transmission. Is it that or something else? does anyone have a similar experience or know what it is?
  • mmmmmazdammmmmazda Posts: 1
    Good day, I have a 2004 2.3 automatic hatchback with 80 000 km's (50 000 miles). I've had it since 65 000 kms (40 000 miles). I feel a vibration in the car when the transmission is in drive with my foot on the bake and completely stopped (like at a red light). The vibration is felt throughout the whole car and varies in strength. It gets worse when the RPM's gets lower. It almost feels like it is getting worse with time. I also hear a loud click coming from under the front of the car about 70% of the time when I put it into reverse in the morning. Sometimes the click happens right when I put it into reverse gear and sometimes when I push the gas in reverse. I'm suspecting a transmission problem. I don't really know if it is switching gears as smoothly as it should also. I wish I could drive another one to compare. I had a mechanic recommend changing the spark plugs because he thought the car idled pretty low but he didn't even take it for a test drive. I changed the plugs but the problem persisted. I would like to believe this could be an easy fix but I fear the worst. Wondering if I should sell before it becomes to noticeable, ha ha ha. Anyone got any ideas? The air filter is clean, the oil changed every 5, new spark plugs, all the fluids are good. :confuse:

    Thanks for your time
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I feel a vibration in the car when the transmission is in drive with my foot on the bake and completely stopped (like at a red light). The vibration is felt throughout the whole car and varies in strength. It gets worse when the RPM's gets lower.

    The predecessor to the Mazda3, the Protege, had similar symptoms due to a dirty EGR valve. You may want to check it out.
  • Hi peeps,

    Dont laugh at me because i know NOTHING about cars but any advice would be great. My mazda 3 seems to be at a higher RPM than it should be at times. For example going down the freeway @ 110km/h its usually doing about 3500RPM. seems a bit high to me however it could be normal? just used to a different car that does not seem to sit at such a high RPM in 5th gear. theres probably nothing wong other than my lack of car knowledge LOL! but hey you never learn without asking even the stupid questions. any words of reassurance would be great. :)
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Assuming that you have a manual transmission...

    Yes, 3,500 RPMs does sound a bit high. As a point of reference, my 2009 Mazda3 i 5-Speed (manual) turns about 3,050 RPMs at 112 KPH.

    Best regards,
  • smadikesmadike Posts: 2
    hi everybody,i'm new in the forum,sorry for my english.
    I've the same probleme with my typotronic mazda3 2004 (107000km)the reverse gives a big jolt and the "AT"code shows up on the screen.
    have you resolved the probleme? how to go about fixing this...?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    reverse gives a big jolt and the "AT"code shows up on the screen

    Sounds like you need to take the car for a checkup at your local garage.

    p.s. Mazda does not have a tiptronic, that's VW. Did you mean automatic transmission (AT)?
  • yoshi99yoshi99 Posts: 3
    I have same issue started about the same time as micks80. Took to mechanic hooked up to computer but no error codes. Waited until light came on again still no error code. Now light goes on while driving, car rides rough only when AT light on.

    FYI, 2004 Mazda 3 Hatchback does have an alternate tiptronic shift
  • yoshi99yoshi99 Posts: 3
    I have same year 2004 Mazda3 Hatchback with about 97,000 miles. Same problem started about 3 weeks ago. Now light comes on & goes off randomly. Had my mechanic check but no error codes. Waited for AT light to show and drove directly to him again with AT light on still no error code. Any resolution to your problem yet?
  • smadikesmadike Posts: 2
    for this probleme was an eletric probleme,error code dtc p0745 pression controle solenoide malfuntion.but i have another probleme 2 weeks later with my 3gears which doesn,t shift,i have to rebuilt the transmission.go to
  • mazbadmazbad Posts: 1
    I am having an overheating problem with my 09 Mazda 3, 5 door transmission. It will not shift to 5th gear when it is hot or outside temp is 106 F. I have been told by Mazda customer relations that this is normal and I should pull over and let it cool down. They call it a fail safe measure that the transmission has in it. There is no code for this problem so they are saying that it is normal. Is anyone experiencing this problem or can you tell me what my next step should be?
  • yoshi99yoshi99 Posts: 3
    FYI: Took car into dealership for "AT" dashboard light. Discussed all info received from this Forum after diagnostic test run. Required NEW TRANSMISSION, luckily I was still under my extended warranty with 2,600 miles to spare. For once it paid to buy it. Waiting to get car back.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 801
    That sounds like a load of bullcrap! The inside of a manual transmission is designed to withstand much higher temps than 106F. I've owned nine vehicles over the last 19 years, all with manual transmissions and have never experienced any heat-related problems.

    The idea of it NOT shifting into 5th as a fail-safe is illogical! Driving in 4th at highway speeds will put a lot more strain on the engine (running at higher rpm). I have a 2006 Mazda3 2.3L/5-speed manual and live in Atlanta. It gets close to 100F often during late summer and I've never had anything like this happen.

    In addition to talking to others on this forum, I'd also suggest There are a lot of helpful folks on that site including some Mazda service techs.
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
Sign In or Register to comment.