Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Isuzu Trooper



  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I work in a business that uses a lot of acronyms and I see several used on this board. But, I still have not figured out the one you use quite often. What is this IIRC you refer to?
    Oh yeah, exhaust system buzzing, rattle is FIXED!!
    It required the replacement of the muffler. By the way, if you guys think manuals are expensive for these vehicles, try pricing a muffler at over $400 from St. Charles ISUZU!! Yes thats right, more than $400. I had to go with an OR (original replacement) couldn't swallow the Isuzu price. There is some difference though. The replacement has more of a throaty sound to it, not quite a quiet as the original during acceleration. I'll be watching mileage to see if there's any change that could have been due to back pressure in the muffler that was rattling.
    Happy Trooping !!!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    If I Recall Correctly.

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I didn't start using this until I saw paisan using it pretty frequently! Once I saw someone else using IIRC, I figured it must be widely known and safe to use without explanation.
  • gtroopgtroop Posts: 85
    I was just thinking on the way back from lunch today that I need to find out what that means. I'm glad someone asked too...
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    I never tighten the drain plug or filter too tight--tight enough not to leak. They always seem to be tighter when you go to remove them, in my experience. Usually people with buggered up drain plugs have them very tight, and then they bugger then up when they can't get them back off.
  • Thanks for the hitch info. I ordered from Automotive Accessories Connection today.

    Thanks again for the advice. Paisan, did you have to do any drilling on your 98 to get it installed?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I didn't have to drill anything on the 2000, just remove the tow-hook and the tied down hole, I moved the tow hook to the front of mine.

  • Well, since CEL never went away completely (after 3 visits to 2 dealers - first was out-of-town, diagnosed with 'random cylinder misfire', second and third -to our 'own' dealer, who could only "reset" the computer, but CEL came on again couple of days later). The CEL would start flashing, then dissappear after driving a while, then start flashing again.
    So now our 00 Trooper with 27K mi is in the shop again. This time the CEL came on and stayed on so that my husband could drive it to the dealer and actiually show them what is happening.

    BTW, all these CEL's are AFTER having engine head(?) replaced due to casting defects in 2 of the cylinders (had it towed because it stalled and overheated - all coolant disappered thru the cracks in the cylinders)... Now they are telling us that one of the cylinders is firing two times slower then the others. I do not know what to believe any more. I don't want to bring up the dreaded "L"-word, but IMHO this is what our truck is.
    My husband will insist on total engine replacement, but I am not sure if he'll succeed. He's driving a loaner Altima and is seriously thinking about getting one instead of our troublesome truck. This is an indicator of how pissed he is at this whole thing. Also, there were rusted rotors, rusted exhaust (replaced under warranty), and "completely bad" front brakes (dealer mechanic never mentioned any sign of trouble doing regular service) - repaired out of our pocket.
    I read these forums and it seems that I have more problems than everyone else combined...
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    First you aren't going to collect on any Lemon Law policy you are well over the 12K limit in most states. My guess is that there is a problem with the ECU or something they didn't re-connect after the engine re-placement. Insisting on a new engine isn't going to fix a mis-fire cause that is computer controlled! It does seem like you have more problems than anyone else on here or other Isuzu boards :(

  • I am only afraid that since the engine overheated before, it might have sustained internal damage of some sort. that's why i'd prefer having it replaced.
    this is the 2nd time the truck is out of comission for more than a week. Seriously, if i wasn't upside-down on my loan , i would have gotten rid of the darn thing.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    was that before or after the block replacement? seems like if it is firing too often it is a ECU problem not an engine problem. You may have gotten a "bad apple" that does happen in manufacturing. It does seem like you have a lot of unrelated problems though which is strange.

  • Sounds like you need to take that Bad Apple and squash it. If I was having the problems you are having I would "accidentaly" total my vehicle and collect whatever insurance I could get. The loss would be better than the headaches from taking it to the shop all the time. Just so you know, I am on my fourth Isuzu and i have never had a problem with any of them.
  • Viktoria, you and your husband need to keep pushing until Isuzu makes it right. Go on up from the zone manager if you have to. It will help to document everything that has happened and how many days it has been out of service etc., and send this info and your complaint in writing to an Isuzu exec.

    The reason we have a 2002 Trooper LS is because a certain American car company recently bought back our three year old sport ute with 30K miles. We didn't even buy it new: it had 12K when we bought it. Can't give details because we had to sign an agreement before they would give us the check, but the check was for our total purchase price including tax, less $0.12/mile. We bought the Troop for barely more than the check they gave us. I just feel sorry for whoever ends up with the thing after it's auctioned.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    Sorry that you have had so many troubles. All those rusting problems makes it sound like maybe the vehicle was partially flooded at one time. I am assuming you bought it new and that Carfax would have no history for cars that were damaged before they were sold. Therefore, I have no idea how you could check this out.

    As to your current situation, my take is that diagnosing the problem should be very quick for a qualified mechanic let alone a dealer. It is just a matter of starting with the codes and then doing some field work (e.g. inspecting the plugs, checking compression, checking for oil in the coolant, etc.). If they haven't found the problem by now it sounds to me like they may not know what they are doing or just putting you on the back burner.

    Granted, it might need a new engine and they should give you one if thats what it takes to fix the problem and ALL the damage. However, until they can tell you the cause of the problem it seems premature to demand a new engine at this point.

    Like the previous poster noted, get Isuzu involved. Make them document and explain every problem found and the fixes involved.

    Lastly when they claim to be done, if you have any doubt that something was left unfixed I suggest you go directly to an independent shop. Pay them to do an engine diagnosis, including a compression and pressure bleed down test on all the cylinders. While this will cost you a few extra bucks it could be good insurance and/or peace of mind. Or, it could find an unfixed problem and give you the leverage to get the dealer to do the right thing.
  • cmunizcmuniz Posts: 604
    I agree with the post above that a flooded car may explain a lot of those seemingly unrelated problems. If the dealer sold it kowing that, I would think that would strengthen your case against both Isuzu and the dealer. I would have someone independently check for signs of flooding. It should be easy to do.
  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    I've updated my spreadsheet which details the cost of ownership of a 1999 Trooper for the first 35,000 miles. It's at:

    I calculate that average fuel economy over 35k miles is at 17.1 mpg. I buy mostly the cheapest Sams or Cosco gasoline. Some other information I take from this data is that:

      - Maximum range was 367miles at 22.3 gallons

      - With the exception of the first fuelup, my Trooper has never given me less than 15mpg with the range consistantly between 15 and 18mpg.

      - Fuel economy jumped to over 18mpg in the Sept-Nov 2001 time frame. The odometer was almost 30,000 but was after an alignment where tires were rotated in an "X" pattern. But, about 2 months later, the fuel consumption fell back closer to its overall average consumption level. Be interesting to see what happens after the 30k service.

    So far, an I will knock on wood, there has been no major repairs and my Trooper uses no oil. I'm using mostly Havoline oil but wonder what would the numbers be if I had used Synthetic oil.

    Also, my Trooper had 20 miles on the odometer when I purchased it. I know at least 10 of those miles was me test driving it. Thus, I know it was never abused:-) It ran with the break in oil to 2,676 miles. I remember keeping the speed down below 60mph, no quick accelerations, and babying my Trooper the first 1,000 miles. After that first 1,000 miles, it regularly was driven 65-75mph while on the Interstate. My Trooper uses hardly any oil between oil changes which average just under 4,000 miles between oil changes. I do very little offroad driving. I do pull a 10' trailer occassionally carrying lumber, mulch, etc.

    I think this data indicates that my Trooper is a pretty good example of Isuzu quality and I wonder if we can deduce a break in procedure that will cut down on later oil consumption and improved fuel economy.

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Excellent info.

    One question: how did you manage to put 22.3 gallons in at one fillup?! Our fuel needle hits "E" and I have the guts to drive another 30-50 miles, but I get nervous about running out of gas. We rarely are able to put more than 20 gallons into our tank at one fillup, even though the stated capacity is 22.5 gallons.
  • when does the gas light come on? I've run my '95 past E for 50 miles, and when I filled it up, I only put 19.25 gallons in it. I know when you're on E it's suppossed to have 3 gallons left, but when does the idiot light come on?

    BTW: went on a road trip to Vegas on a whim this weekend. Didn't lose any money at the casinos :)! Anyways, on my way out there from Flagstaff, I got 18.95 MPG. One of the best runs with my driving :)
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It's probably an early indicator, because outside the US fuel stations (like in AUS) may be much further apart than here in the states.

  • I've never seen the fuel light come on that I can recall. But then again I haven't been looking for it until recently (5000 miles). The auto-foldin-mirror button light is out, but the defrost mirror light is still working. The hazard light button doesn't light up either. I know when I damaged the foldin button light, but I'm not sure if the hazard light button even lights up, since it's a red button and not of the norm. Does anyone know if the hazard light button lights up when the head lamps are turned on? 85k and 7 years, these are my main problems :) hahaha
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I don't believe the hazard light lights up.

  • I really only have one light damaged and one light that I have never seen :)
  • Just complete a 1500 mile round trip. Trooper ran like a charm. Before leaving I had the altimeter/temperature module changed because of low barometric pressure reading - results the same. It just likes to read low. Also the check engine light was diagnosed as a TPS = throttle position sensor - was replaced.

    I routinely run the Trooper until the fuel light comes on - and I set the trip indicator to zero and allow myself 40 miles. Exactly 2.5 gallons of fuel left when it comes on. Also the dealer service department told me that they quit installing luggage racks on the Trooper following the Consumers Report thing. Isuzu was taking no chances on a high center of gravity from on-top luggage contributing to a roll over. Interesting article on TV the other night about Consumer Reports criticizing the Trooper and now the new Montero. Didn't see all of it - but not one roll-over incident recorded on the Montero - and my insurance rate doesn't reflect any hazard associated with the Trooper - but regardless, a bad CR review is a death knoll. But you know what is crazy is that the Explorer which apparently passed CR testing rolls over with a vengence if you blow a tire - a rear one at that - go figure!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yep, no reports of Trooper rollovers in real life either. Ford probably donated to the CR "Rollover test fund" :)

    Yep Isuzu stopped putting rack on US Troopers. YOu can get them everwhere else in the world though.

  • Boy, I wish I could get 15 routinely. I get 12 or 13 tops, and maybe 17-18 on the highway. And I'm a gentle driver...
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    She bought it used, but I am suprised the problems were not apparent from day 1. Maybe it was in a flood while hot. If left there for several days that could explain the warped heads, rusting etc.
  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    I set the trip odometer every time I refuel and with the low fuel light and the odometer, determine when its appropriate to refuel.

    BTW, I've been using the cheapest low octane fuel I can find. I just got an email that fuel quality is an issue in the longetivity of a vehicle. In truth, how much impurities are in fuel anyway?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Not sure what this even means. I don't think it equates to octane level, though.

    I am convinced that the Trooper runs well, and will last long, on 87 octane. Is some brands' 87 octane better than others? Probably, but I've never really heard of a good study saying which brands were "better" and I don't even know what "better" is.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I don't think it has to do with the brand per-say, but has to do with the station's tanks you fill up at. For instance Gaseteria stations generally have run-down systems and tanks that probably leak a bit. Those places are more likely to have "bad" fuel. I stick to well maintained high volume name brand (Mobil/Exxon/Sunoco/Shell/Hess/Amoco) fuels.


    PS: I run exclusively on 87 in both my cars.
  • beer47beer47 Posts: 185
    For some reason my 2k runs better on 89 octane than 87. On 87 I get pinging/tapping under acceleration and going up steep grades. My first 50k was on 87 but now only 89. I too try to stick with major brands when possible. Hey, Paisan did you ever run low on gas while on the "Belt Pkwy" and have to pay that pirate with the station in the middle median? I did once..hopefully never again!
Sign In or Register to comment.