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Isuzu Trooper

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  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Wow that's like brand new. my 2000 has 45K on it so far w/o major problems. Oil consumption is the only minor annoyance.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    There are probably a few little things you can do to get an idea of oil consumption, but I doubt you'll be able to find out anything for sure. Look for blue puff of smoke from exhaust on startup, check obvious things in the engine for signs that oil or burned oil (carbon buildup?) is getting to places it shouldn't be. Would a compression test reveal anything about oil consumption?

    If the vehicle was returned to an Isuzu dealer, I'd make it clear to them that a maintenance history is important and ask them to pull, or at least summarize for you, the vehicle's dealer service records. I'm guessing a salesperson will be reluctant to do this, and some dealers flat won't do it as a matter of policy. If no maintenance records are available, then for negotiating purposes you should assume nothing has been done except the very obvious stuff (oil changes, etc.).

    One common problem on the 3.5L Troopers ('98 and newer) is the intake manifold gasket. I don't know exactly how it fails (cracks?), but it's pretty common for this item to be replaced under warranty. I'd try to find out about that. At 4 years and 45k miles old, this '98 Trooper is still under factory powertrain warranty, so you'd have a little time to identify any powertrain problems and have them fixed free.

    Another thing to look for is tires. At 45k this Trooper either has the original tires with very little tread or already has a new set of tires. This is a $500+ consideration.

    We own a '98 Trooper with Performance Package and thoroughly enjoy it. Just turned 75,000 miles tonight. For '98, Perf. Pkg. means it has the Torque on Demand 4WD system and a monotone paint scheme.

    I think paisan is right - the "Anniversary Edition" was a 2000 model year thing, not a '98 thing. In '98 there were 3 levels - Trooper S, Trooper S with Performance Package, and Trooper S with Luxury Package. The Luxury Pkg requires the Perf Pkg. '98 was unusual in that fog lights were available only on the Luxury Pkg Troopers. In '99, I'm pretty sure fog lights were included on the Performance Pkg Troopers (or maybe they were called Trooper LS that year - don't remember for sure).

    What else can you tell us about this Trooper? Does it have Torque on Demand (not available on the base Trooper S in '98)?

    The list of repairs on our Trooper is very short. Off hand here's what I can think of - intake manifold gasket replaced (under warranty); door handle mechanism replaced on right rear passenger door (my mom broke it somehow but dealer replaced under warranty); in-dash CD changer replace (under warranty - this is a very common problem with the earlier 3.5L Troopers - primarily the 98 and 99 models. I think the later-produced CD changers, both the OEM installs and the warranty replacement units, are less troubleprone). I'm sure there are a couple other things but I can't think of them.

    Routine maintenance has been pretty minimal, especially for a 4WD truck. Note that there are quite a few 'maintenance' items listed in the owners manual, but many of them are checks and inspections. Aside from oil/filter changes, I've replaced all the fluids (differentials, transfer case, tranny), had a couple coolant flushes, put on new tires at 52k miles, and that's about it.

    Around 75k you will probably encounter more significant maintenance needs - replacing the spark plugs, timing belt, water pump (folks here recommend doing at same time as timing belt to save big on labor), etc. Most people get tons of miles from the OEM brakes. Despite > 50% city miles, ours are all original at 75k miles, and an inspection around 60k showed 50% pad life remaining!

    These are well-built, reliable, quality trucks that the U.S. market never took notice of. Let us know how your search and acquisition process progresses! Good luck.
  • ml16ml16 Member Posts: 9
    My 99 Trooper with 22k miles went in for a routine transmission flush three weeks ago. The technician noticed two solenoids that had to be replaced, all except the flush were under warranty.

    An hour ago (Christmas eve) I was driving in an ice storm so I turned on the TOD. A moment later the vehicle started shaking and the "check" light under the TOD started flashing. I pulled over, shut the vehicle off and the same thing happened again. Is it safe to drive the vehicle without the TOD on until I can get it home? I'm concerned about driving 400 miles and causing further damage. Merry X-mas to all.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I think it is safe to drive home. You could try to temporarily fix the TOD system? One is by engaging 4LO and disengaging and then backing up a few feet, etc. It could just be some weird actuator issue? Also you could try disconnecting the battery to reset the computer? Or maybe pull the TOD fuse and put it back?

    You could also go to an Autozone and have them hookup a computer and get the error code for you.
  • 96_i30_5sp96_i30_5sp Member Posts: 127
    Did you have TOD problems before the tech replaced the solenoids? After the repair, did you inspect TOD operation? I've seen very silly things done by factory certified techs so I always double check any warranty work. Start with sbcooke's suggestions. If you have the opportunity to look at the truck underneath, check if the solenoids were properly installed, any loose wires and the level of TOD fluid (ATF) if it was also replaced.
    Merry Christmas!
  • ml16ml16 Member Posts: 9
    The TOD was working fine prior to the tranny flush, as soon as I wake up I'll try sbcooke's suggestions.

    Thanks to you both and a merry Christmas to you and your families.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I may be wrong, but I don't think backing up does anything on your 99 setup. I believe that was limited to the old autohub design.

    My advice is to do a cursory check as noted above for loose wires, missing/cracked vacuum hoses, etc. If you find something that looks wrong note it. Tell the shop about it rather than trying to fix it yourself. If you do anything, and tell the shop, that will give them the chance to say you caused the problem. Just make the shop fix the problem they caused. You did after all take in a properly running vehicle for preventative maintenance only.

    I also agree that when you get work done you should ALWAYS check it out. Even if you know nothing about cars, at least make them show you exactly where the work was done. While they are showing you look for any: loose hoses, unhooked wires, untouched bolts/old parts indicating that they didn't really do the work they said they did, etc. Also, try out the parts/systems that were worked on. In this case turning on the TOD as you left would have spotted the problem right then and there. This would should have made your case that the shop caused the problem.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    99% chance its the sensor wires for the TOD unit. I had a similar problem with my 2000 when it was snowy/wet the sensor wires would get wet and cause that probelem. They replaced the front and rear driveshaft sensors and no more probems in about 30K miles.

    -mike
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    This is probably old news to some of you here, but the link below is to a Knight-Ridder article in today's paper titled "Isuzu may be the next to exit U.S. auto market" that might have some new info.


    http://www.philly.com/mld/inquirer/classifieds/automotive/4813743.htm

  • cwp2cwp2 Member Posts: 19
    Just got back from a 5 hour drive through West Texas. Cross winds were 35 mph+ and it was tough holding her straight. Question - there is a lot of wind noise coming either from the windshield gasket or the firewall penetrations. Has anyone had this problem and had it fixed? It starts to work on you after 2 or 3 hours of driving...........thanks
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    There is a fix. I think it involves screening from home depot. Scroll way way back and you'll find it.

    -mike
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Or maybe the Advanced Search tool linked on the left can find it? Like this one:

    justdrivin Jan 21, 2002 4:22pm

    Steve, Host
  • cwp2cwp2 Member Posts: 19
    Paisan / Steve - thanks for the info. It sounds like I have the same bug deflector problem.
    Steve - What/where is the A post gap as mentioned by justdrivin?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I think that's another way of saying "A Pillar." Maybe this will help until a Trooper owner comes along:

    keepontroopin Jan 4, 2002 3:43pm

    Steve, Host
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    Thinking that my wind noise "tap" was coming from the front bug shield on my '00, I installed a few of the small stick-on round pads. It may have helped but the real culprit in my case, is the front fresh air vent mesh screen that taps when it's cool / cold outside & / or in crosswinds. IIRC, someone posted that they cut some thin spacers from rubber or foam for each of the vent grill strips if this should be the cause of your "noise".
  • cwp2cwp2 Member Posts: 19
    Troop2shos: I noticed that my vent mesh screen is loose and am wondered the same thing. It is worth a try to get some foam, etc. and see if it stops the noise. If so, then I can come up with a more permanent solution
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I just spent some time adjusting my torsion bars on the 99' to get a little more travel on the front suspension before getting that jarring bump when it bottoms out against the stops. Thought I'd equalize the height on both sides while I was at it. One side was about a 1/4" lower than the other. I started adjustments on the side that was lowest. I got it up to where I wanted it, made note of the turns it required and moved to the other side. I measured the height again before starting, and it had come up along with the side I had adjusted!! I felt the gap between the bump stop and the rubber bumper on both sides and decided to set the front end up to have equal space between the gaps side to side. Anyone else checked their setup and seen similar issues? It didn't take as many turns on the passenger side as it did the driver side.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I've noted there is a significant difference between the 97' and 99' Troopers and the way the air comes over the top. It must be that slight change to the hood they made in 1998. With the Moonroof open I don't get near the air turbulence inside the cabin as I did in the 1997. The turbulence was so bad in the 97' I had to partially close the roof or open the 2 rear windows. I have to do neither in the 99'. A small change in front design, amounted to a huge difference in open Moonroof enjoyment.
    Happy New Year to all!
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I asked the dealer to raise my front end about 1/2" after I put my bull bar on. That is about all I have done to mine.
  • edmundgregedmundgreg Member Posts: 5
    I had a similar problem (12/26/02 Indiana) after having some fun in the snow. What I found was that I had snow packed underneath the truck near the tires. I passed a car wash and sprayed it all out. The ice was packed. Fixed the problem.

    In addition, I have a '98 and the check tod light that is on. The dealer said it was both my front and rear speed sensor. Total bill would be $700 due to out of warranty. I wanted to investigate the issue myself but do not know where the sensors are located. Could anyone tell be where the front and rear speed sensors are located.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Traditionally the pillars on a vehicle are numerated from front to rear. The 'A' pillars (or posts) are the ones at the windshield, the 'B' pillars are the ones between the side doors, and so on.
  • supatroopasupatroopa Member Posts: 1
    Just wanted to say thanxs for all the postings, I bought a 99's in 2000 for under 19k new (no packages) still owe 3k or so will be paying off early 2003, considered trading her in for something a little more refined but have decided to keep her due to your postings (reliability) presently doing all replacements of parts that have been so thoroughly suggested and confirmed from within the group. Again thanx for all the postings and saving me the 40k.
  • rswan55rswan55 Member Posts: 1
    Suddenly my '98 Trooper has decided that it won't start on the first try. It turns over and starts up, but then immediately stalls. The second try is always successful and it runs fine thereafter. Am I in need of a new starter? I'm no mechanic, does anyone have any advice? Thanks in advance!
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    could be as simple as needing a new battery. I had some similar issues recently. I looked into all sorts of complicated problems, then finally (and luckily) it died in my driveway, $70 at sears for a diehard did the trick. If it cranks, but doesn't start, that would mean there is enough juice going to it, if it clicks, then that is a sign of a weak battery.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Sounds like the fuel pressure regulator. That seems to be a fairly common problem, along with the intake manifold gaskets...
  • 96_i30_5sp96_i30_5sp Member Posts: 127
    I would check to see if it's not a fuel delivery problem. You may have a clogged fuel filter, weak fuel pump, etc. Do a simple test: when the truck is cold, turn the key to the ON position, wait 3-5 sec, then crank it up. On another cold start, start the truck without waiting. Compare the results and if you see a difference, you may have a fuel problem rather than an electrical (starter, battery) problem. FYI, I wait 3sec before starting all my vehicles so the fuel pump can bring up the fuel pressure to normal levels.
  • ostazostaz Member Posts: 80
    I had a similar problem on my 99, it was the fuel pressure regulator.
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    As a suggestion until you check the pressure to the fuel rail, you can try turning the ignition key to the run position for a few seconds which will turn on the fuel pump & pressurize the system before engaging the starter. You should be able to start it on the 1st try if the problem is minor.
  • goblutogobluto Member Posts: 4
    First, thanks to bluedevils for the insight on the 98 Trooper. Don't think I'll buy that model, but am seriously considering 2000 Trooper S in mint condition for $14,500. It has leather and 40K confirmed highway miles. Any thoughts, perceptions, suggestions are much appreciated.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The reason you may have had to crank one side more than the other is that they may need to be re-indexed. Basically there is a lever at the back of the bar which goes into a spline on the bar. Usually thay are at different angles relative to the frame on each side. "re-indexing" means putting them at the same angle and then starting to crank down on em.

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Actually, on a torsion bar the angle of the adjustment arm shouldn't matter, unless you have used up all of the available adjustment travel. Re-indexing is simply done to gain more room to adjust the ride height.

    And it really doesn't matter if the adjustment arm on one side is at a different angle than the other side, this has no effect on anything other than as mentioned above.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    They are in the transfer case. They both went out at once? That dealer diagnosis sounds more like a replace some parts and hope approach to me.
    Have you tried pulling the codes yourself?
  • blubikeblubike Member Posts: 1
    I just picked up a 2001 4x4 S with 18k miles for $15,8 + tax today which I think (hope) was a pretty good deal. I have a question regarding care underneath. The trooper I bought is pretty much beautiful topside and in the interior. I ran a report on it and every looked good. The one thing that concerned me is a good deal of rust and what appears to be salt corrosion underneath on bolts, frame, etc. The vehicle spent one winter in Michigan and is now in FL after being sold at an auction (fleet leased vehicle). I was thinking about cleaning it as best I can using rust inhibitors and primers and then possibly undercoating underneath. I'd appreciate any thoughts or comments.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    I would definitely give it a thorough cleaning, but I wouldn't undercoat it at this point. Undercoating is best when done before the salt hits it. It just kinda seals in the rust without stopping it.

    I had my 99 undercoated when new, we will see how long it lasts here in the salt in Minnesota...might buy a couple of extra years, that salt is nasty on sheet metal.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Without researching it, that sounds a bit high, even in mint condition. Check www.autotrader.com for comparison listings. It's the biggest for-sale vehicle database I've seen.

    Is that 2000 S a 4x2 or 4x4? Manual or automatic? I don't remember if Torque on Demand was standard or optional on the 4x4 Automatic 2000 Troopers.
  • ostazostaz Member Posts: 80
    I agree with sdc2, don't undercoat, at least not before you neutralize the rust. I found it to much more effective to reduce the oxidation first (there are many products available for that, spray or apply liberally, and repeat as many times as you need to convert rust to an inert polymerized compound). Then spray real sticky oil paint (I found a generic "Rustolum" at Wall mart that is much better and cheaper than Rustolum brand name).

    You can also apply paraffin (wax) in area where you feel rust can seep into.

    I have treated several vehicles that way, and I inspect and re-apply if needed every 2 years, never lost one to rust in over 20 years.

    Sam
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I'm trying to figure out if the PCV valve on my 98 Troop is okay, or if it might be faulty and would help explain the increasing oil consumption.

    I have no idea where the PCV valve is. Can anyone help? I found and removed one thing that looked like it might be the PCV valve. I'm totally clueless under the hood.

    This thing was attached to an appx 1/2" diameter hose on one end and to the engine block (?) near the front-most coil pack/spark plug on driver's (left) side. The thing was L-shaped; top half was red/burgundy and bottom half black. Said "AISIN" on 1 side and "897118" and "8600" on other side.

    I've seen one other PCV valve - on a 95 Ford Contour. The rattling on that one (indicating the needle thing inside is there, which is good) was very noticeable. On the thing I pulled from my Trooper, there was a barely audible rattling but I wasn't convinced that all was well inside there. Shaking this thing in the other direction, there was no rattling; instead, a sound like a liquid (oil?) sloshing around in there. The end of the thing that was plugged in to the hose had just a wee bit of oil on it; not sure if that's normal, problematic, etc.

    I'm guessing that this was indeed the PCV valve on my Trooper and it appears to be not right. I will probably call St. Charles Isuzu in the morning and order a new one. That way I will know for sure what it looks like!
  • pinoy99pinoy99 Member Posts: 79
    The only was to remove the pcv valve is to remove the plastic cover for the intake manifold first but otherwise your description of the location sounds good. I bought my replacement from an auto store which I believe is a purolator unit;I did not have any oil on the old one and it still seemed to be operating normaly.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    pinoy99, by "plastic cover for the intake manifold" do you mean the black plastic thing that sits 'on top' of the engine and says something like 'Isuzu 24V DOHC' on it? I did remove that thing - you just pull it off, as it's notn screwed down or anything.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Last night I tried to do this on my 98 Trooper (3.5L V6) but was unsuccessful. I removed the 2 screws from one of the coil packs. Tried to remove the wires from the coil pack, but could not figure out how. I didn't want to pull too hard and break something.

    Any suggestions?

    I'm trying to get a look at the plugs to see if they are still gapped properly, tons of oil in there, etc. At just over 75k miles, it's time to replace them anyway, but I wanted to see if they look okay or if they show signs of problems related to the engine's high oil consumption.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    There is a tab on the plastic connector that you press to release the connection. I will have to look at it again to be any more specific, but on one side or the other of the connector, there is a tab...you either lift it with a small screwdriver or press it, don't remember (I changed my plugs over a year ago). As you noted, you don't want to break it so take your time and figure it out...after that the next five will be a breeze!

    IMO it is easier to disconnect the wires before unbolting the coil packs.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Thanks! I meant to ask if it was easier or tougher to remove the wires before unscrewing the coil packs. I'll take your advice next try.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    You have got some good advice let me try adding my additional $.02.

    You can unplug the coil packs by pushing on the connector using only your fingers. Just do one cylinder at a time otherwise you run a small risk of mixing up the wire routing. FWIW, I put a small daub of dielectric grease on the top of my plugs to try and make sure I got a good electrical connection.

    The PCV valve is very low tech in design and very important in function. It is really just a container with a small weight inside that sits on top of a hole. When the pressure slightly builds up from the engine this lifts the weight and lets the oil vapors flow through the hole. If you are sure you have found the PCV valve, you can just spray some carb cleaner in it to dissolve and rinse out all the accumulated gunk that is impairing its function. However given the under $5 price for them, my recommendation is to stick to your plan to buy a new one. While I like St. Charles and OEM parts, I have no problem in buying a aftermarket PCV valve at a local autoparts store or even Walmart.

    Also, why didn't you post this in the "Maintenance and Repair" section? If nothing else it makes future searching for such posts much easier.
  • cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    Isuzu roll over "after apparent tire blowout".


    What 'Isuzu' was this? Trooper, Rodeo, Axiom?


    Wonder if this will result in a high profile investigation?


    Ref:

    http://www.cnn.com/2003/ALLPOLITICS/01/02/frist.aid/index.html

  • pinoy99pinoy99 Member Posts: 79
    Yep, that's the one. I guess I should have said plastic cover ON TOP of the intake manifold instead of plastic cover FOR THE intake manifold.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    The problem was me, not you. I don't know where the intake manifold is or what it looks like! Thanks for clarifying, though.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    heard about the rollover, thanks for the link. 1 accident doesn't mean that all are bad... it will be the nail in the Isuzu coffin though.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Or an old Amigo.

    You can tell by the spare-tire holder in the pic.
    Pre-98 at that cause 98->03 have the rear tire mounted on the door, this one has it on a hinged thing.

    -mike
  • cptsessocptsesso Member Posts: 116
    It was a Rodeo. Found another article describing accident.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't vehicle rollovers, especially SUVs, happen all the time? I guess I don't understand why folks think this one is such a big deal.
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