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-mike
I won't buy a vehicle if I can't get 4-wheel ABS - and if I really want the car, I don't mind paying extra if it is an option (my pickup came std with rear-wheel ABS and optional with 4-wheel). I paid the extra $$. The increase in insurance premiums (in just the first year) as a result of me running into someone will more than pay for the option.
Charlie
-mike
The gearing is great like mike said. I used 3,2,and l down steep grades too this last weekend. Not quite as a manual, but still very effective.
We also checked 3 other troopers with 25K to 50K on the lot and in for various service. They all had the same thing, to a lesser extent. It is almost that the column gets worn in the center, and when you turn off of it, the metal bumps over the warn piece. They deemed the problem to be "characteristic".
I was quick to point out that TSB's are based on "characteristics" and those get fixed and are not "normal". I agreed to drive it another month, see if it gets worse. If so, they said they would do the work, but are apprehensive about it. I am surprised that if other trucks have it, why it isn't a TSB?
Just an FYI, we are going to have our Feb Pine Barrens Run Feb 17th, that is the Sunday of President's weekend.
-mike
It is as if a bolt is worn, so when you first turn, the coupling in the middle of the steering shaft moves a mm before it hits each side. It felt more like play in the wheel on the other troopers, but it was there. If I lift my hood I can hear the metal hitting either side as I turn left and right. If I put my hand on the rubber boot 1/2 way down the column, no noise or bump.
You don't need to have the car on or moving, it might even be easier if it is off. Just wiggle the wheel back and forth 3 inches, enough so you feel the pressure of the wheels starting to turn.
-mike
tidester
Host
SUVs
In terms of wear, can anybody tell me if ball joints need replacing on troopers at high 80k+ miles?
I just checked my '95 S w/ 84K in 24 degree weather for the so called steering bump. I turned everything off except the engine which I could barely hear since she'd warmed up. I didn't notice any bump in the steering at the center or at any offset angle. Rocked the wheel back and forth and couldn't notice a thing.
Anti-theft device:
Same truck as above came with the Star-guard key. It has its advantages, but I would rather have a different type of security system. Supposedly they reroute the starting wires and stuff so that it can't start even if someone tries to hot wire it. The key only stops the vehicle from being started. It can be removed after that (valet mode). Basically it's a high-tech kill switch. I don't see too many Troopers being stolen out there so not too much too worry about IMO.
I have some theories...it could be added weight from my bull bar that has exaggerated a very small thing? I had a drift problem when the truck was new, maybe they cranked up the toe-in, which also could have put more stress on this joint/power steering over time? Maybe it is since I have done some hard pounding over sand dunes for extended periods in the last 2 summers? Maybe it is just one of those things? Driving is fine, no slop in steering, just very annoying, and to be honest it doesn't feel that safe (even though the dealer tells me it is nothing to worry about).
It is sort of amusing to think of all the trooper owners outside checking their steering today. Thanks to all who have taken an interest, and the input is helpful. Based on responses so far, I am most likely going to insist they fix this.
Troopers are rarely stolen. I park mine in Harlem at least 1-2x a week w/o a problem.
-mike
sbcooke, looks like you better get that steering thing fixed. I have checked my 97' 61024 miles and it doesn't do what you are describing either. If it feels unsafe, it probably is unsafe. Let us know what the dealer finds on the repair.
Happy Trooping !!!!
Whew! By asking you open a can of worms, it is good to type out some frustration. I did check out 2 other troopers on the lot each with 40K+ on them, which had similar, but very much less noticeable symptoms. They said the other one on the lot with over 40K on it was the same? This has only developed over the last month. The best way I can describe it (after much thought) is like a wrench that has a loose nut holding the two handles together, when pressed no play, but not tight at rest?
Whew! anyway I am going to drive it another month, and then schedule it for repair.
Also, it appears that a permanently-mounted roof rack is not available. I can't believe anyone would sell a sport-ute, van or wagon these days without at least making it an option. Am I missing something? Apparently the dealer will sell a Yakima ski rack, but does this clamp to the doors or gutters? I want something that won't damage the paint and won't be a thief magnet!
Sorry
-mike
The Overlander Brackets are about $39 / set of four. The rain gutter trim will need to be notched to install the trim back after the brackets are on. Use a sealant / adhesive (3M 5200 marine product is great for this) between the brackets and the body and put some on the 6mm bolts so everything stays mechanically tight and water tight and rust free.
Troopers have threaded holes in three places along each side. They are there under paint and then under masking tape. They are difficult to see even with the trim removed. The rain gutter trim pops off of its plastic hold down clips easily. Do it gently so you don't break a clip. The trim is stainless steel with a thick plastic coating on it. The trim itself is very robust. The places where the holes are located are roughly in line with the steering wheel, the split in the rear side door windows, and middle of the non moving rear quarter panel windows. Use a wet rag to wipe the scum off then look for a smooth rectangle impression made by the tape in the paint. There are two 6mm threaded holes under each tape. The "flat" mating surface that these bolts hold the bracket down onto is at about 30 degrees tilted down on the middle of the roof side. That is why the correct brackets are very handy.
I put the Thule cross bars in all three locations. I mount a canoe or two up there. The Overlander brackets are literally bullet proof, made from a roughly 2.5" x 5" piece of 1/8 inch thick hardenned steel. I think I could put a 3/4 sheet of plywood over the Thule bars and have a party up there and it would hold up just fine. The threaded holes in the roof look to me as if they might have been used in the factory to attach the Trooper body to a robot, or at least they look that sturdy.
The Thule cross bars are rectangular. I drilled a hole in only one side of the Thule bar with a carbide drill bit, (not all the way through the bar). Then I put a 5/16 or 8mm bolt up throug the hole in the middle of the Overlander bracket. The bolt with washers is threaded into a nut inside the Thule bars. I held the nut inside with a needle noze plier, a screw driver to wedge the nut once the threads have been started would do also. So all you can see on the outside is the head of a bolt under the bracket. The Thule bars are plastic coated and resting directly on the Overlander brackets. This is a very low profile install. Too low for the Thule fairing to work. There is very little wind noise because the bars are so low profile.
Yakima bars also work well with the Overlander brackets. There is a version of Yakima roof rack mounts that has an aluminum casting with a threaded 5/16 hole in the bottom. The Overlander bolt hole is also for 5/16 inch bolt. Don't buy a Yakima rack an srap it for a few parts. It is much less expensive to order Yakima replacement parts for the aluminum clamping piece and replacement cross bars. REI.com sell these parts. You can order single cross bars and most REI stores will split paired bars for you.
Note: The Trooper roof is 4cm narrower at the rear than at the front roof rack bracket location. This is a problem if you want to install front to back roof rack rails that allow the cross bar spacing to be adjusted. The rear most brackets are about 48 inches apart at the crossbar hole in the Overlander bracket. The middle set of brackets are 2cm wider and the front ones are 4cm wider than the rear most brackets.
boxtrooper
The Yakima's can either be installed into pre-drilled rack holes, or like the Thule, over the door frames. I hear the yakima rack that goes into the pre-drilled holes is very quite noisy highway speeds.
I like the Thule over Yakima because it has square bars. While not the easiest, I can remove my rack in 15 minutes and have it back on in another 20.
-mike
-mike
-mike
That being said, I also have a tendency to leadfoot the SUV when in Power mode. I've noticed that when I do this, there is a rattling from the back end not unlike what you hear when a Camaro/Firebird is under full acceleration. Is this normal, or do I have something loose back there? I understand the howl coming from the engine, but this sound is coming from the rear of the vehicle. I'm headed into the dealer in the next few days for some other warranty work and wonder if this is something I need to fight with them over. Anyone else have this issue?
I haven't noticed too much noise from our 98 Trooper, but the rear cargo doors DO rattle quite a bit when they are slammed shut.
Hopefully somebody else remembers the details of the door/hardware noise fix...
1. The ABS seems fairly noisy
2. The ABS activates sooner than I would expect
3. I get the impression that everything is working properly, although the noise is a little disconcerting.
Even with new Michelin LTX M/S tires, the ABS still activates quicker than I would expect.
Overall, I don't consider this to be a problem but a quieter ABS system would give me more peace of mind.
Squeek? WD-40 the places that the doors contact each other and the base. Don't forget the latch on the underside of little door, that is a spot I forgot and caused me grief while trying to get rid of it.
It could be possible that you are getting a vibration resonance at WOT that would cause a rattle in the doors but since you don't notice it otherwise, I would also check that the jack & lug wrench aren't loose in the storage compartment, something in the hidden compartment under the rear seats, tailpipe hangars / isolators & exhaust system for too much lateral movement under engine load (catalytic convertor is under your feet IIRC), etc. Rattles, etc., can be difficult to isolate & if it is in the rear, have someone sit in the back cargo area to see if it can be pinpointed.
At WOT, I'm surprised you hear anything other than intake & engine noises.......
Let us know what you find out.....good hunting.
-mike
-mike