The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will tell you what we think you should pay for that service (~$300). Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
My 2000S is at 28,500 miles- seeing this thread got me to check with my local guys (North Atlanta area). I was very surprised...Moss Robertson Isuzu wants $840.00, not including an additional $129.00 for the transmission flush!! I'm still waiting to call Lou Sobh...I hope they are a lot less. David
I have not done all of the service as recommended by the manual. However, I do everything myself. My vehicle will be coming up on 50k in a month or so. I will be doing everything as mentioned in the above posts at that time if I have not already performed the task. Please email me at chad.knott@kolbfasteners.com. if you need assistance in regard to this maintenance. I live in Gainesville, Georgia.
In Maryland (a very consumer protected state), the dealer require that you have the service done by them in order to maintain the warranty. I have had almost all my 15/30/60K services (on other cars) done at an independent. As long as they are certified mechanics (I can't remember the name of the certifying agency), your warranty is intact.
Is this the same in other states?
BTW, my Isuzu dealer charges about $350 on "special" (every other month).
No dealers can require that. There is a federal Act that prohibits it. Something-Moss Act that states as long as you have reciepts for the parts and/or a certified shop did the service you are covered.
Forget it! A bunch of sissy checks! If you must, change the a/t, diffy, and transfer case fluid. Change your oil & filter with some regularity. Did that list say change coolant @ 30k while the rest of the world doesn't have to til 100k, please! The only thing I am not sure about is that "propeller shaft lube thing", that might be advisable. My 2000s is at 57k w/ nary a problem so far. I did above mentioned fluids @45k (not coolant) and I do MB1 every 10k. I do hear a slight sound when in TOD but for all I know that may be normal. Air filter you can do yourself whenever you feel the need. I am planning on fuel filter soon, once every 50k should do it. Brake fluid @ 30k? Somewhere some brake fluid manufacturer is laughing his butt off. Come folks, lets not spend more than we have to.
Keep in mind that you may or may not have extended-life coolant installed. If you have "old" coolant, the manufacturer recommends changes every 2 yrs/30k miles. Brake fluid should be flushed every two years as well because it tends to absorb moisture.
If you read this board often, you will find that fluid change intervals are hallowed ground. Some will swear that you never should change fluids; others replace their oil every 2000 miles. It's personal preference in many cases.
is another name for the driveshaft. There are, I believe, 3 zerc fittings on the u-joints. Just give them a shot of grease like you would a ball joint. Takes 2 minutes, tops.
I like to think I take good care of our vehicles, but I've never had brake fluid changed/flushed on any vehicle I've owned. Never experienced significant brake problems; only brake work has been new pads and occasionally new rotors. Have I simply been lucky or what?
I don't think my dad has ever had brake fluid changed/flushed/etc. in his 35 years of vehicle ownership.
Years ago I had a brake shop technician tell me to do my own brake fluid flush every couple of years. He said it would help prolong the seal life as well as maintain the fluid effectiveness.
I find that the fluid in the reservoir usually looks fine. Whether it has picked up water and compromised its effectiveness/made it much more corrosive I don't know. The fluid at the brakes is certainly darker looking for the first couple of pumps.
Granted, this may be overkill especially if you don't keep your vehicles all that long and/or you have to pay to get the work done. I plan to keep my Trooper for 10+ years. I am willing to spend a couple a bucks and take 45 minutes every couple of years to flush them.
What exactly does this entail? I presume this is not simply a "open the brake fluid reservoir, remove the old fluid with a pump or syphon, and pour in new fluid to top it off" type of procedure? People seem to do this with power steering fluid, as a quick way to do some good. However, wouldn't this be a bad idea with brake fluid since...water/condensation buildup in the system is a bad thing...??? I'm clueless here.
There are very few quality dealers in Maryland. Check the Code of Maryland (COMAR) or contact Consumer Protection Agency. Most standard maintenance performed by Jiffy Lube, Midas, other National Chain or ASE certified mechanic should not void warranty.
I have had good experience with only one dealer in Maryland. Criswell in Annapolis. I just bought new 02 LS and got a great deal. Was looking for used 99 to 01 LS and the dealer in Silver Spring kept switching trucks and prices. Stuff like yes we have an 2000 LS 4WD I'd get there and it would be 2WD or sorry it's only an S model but it is 4WD. When I asked about new they went right to LS at $33K and not willing to negotiate price. Criswell, said used LS' are near impossible to find and asked if they could come close would I look at new. Asked for best price Manager came back with hard number said try to beat at any dealer. No one in MD, DE, Southern PA or Northern VA came close. Most offered the $5k rebate but that was all.
Need to take in for fix on Drivers Seat and Drivers mirror. Will post experience.
I know I68 into Western MD very well. Through the mountains that twisting highway can have spots where wind gusts will affect almost any vehicle. As a matter of fact, I know on occasion where that hgy has been closed because of the winds blowing cars off the road. So, with the winds we had this past week, I wouldn't be overly concerned with the trooper handling on I68.
I don't have my buddy's manual right now so I cannot give you the exact procedure. There are some important ABS precautions (I'm thinking MAYBE pull the fuse first but don't count on my memory) and an ideal order as to which wheel to bleed first, second etc. Again, I am sorry but I do not remember the order.
As an overview, I almost empty the reservoir first with an old turkey baster being careful not to let air into lines. I then fill with new fluid. Then I go to a wheel and open and close the bleeder while my helper pushes, holds and releases the brake pedal. I do this until the fluid is clean. Of course you have to be careful to refill the reservoir lest you let air into the system and have to start over. Also, having a hose on the bleeder outlet and directing that into a clear bottle is also a good idea. This keeps brake fluid from flowing everywhere, lets you see what is going on, and can keep air from being sucked back in.
No doubt there is a good writeup somewhere on the net. Just be careful to get the ABS precautions correct as I guess you could mess up some sensor and/or get fluid squirting out under high pressure. Also, the wheel bleeding order is important in order to get all the old fluid out.
You guys be sure not to get any brake fluid on your paint. It will take it off faster than ordinary paint remover. Don't ask me how I know that! If I were doing the job, I would sure cover the fender with an old blanket or something.
Because DOT 3 fluid absorbs moisture, the fluid in your braking system absorbs such moisture over a period of time. This can lead to two problems: (1) moisture in the braking system causes corrosion. Those steel brake lines and iron calipers start to internally corrode. This leads to leaks and gunk in the system, and (2) if the brake fluid becomes sufficiently hot from braking, the moisture in the lines vaporizes. Because gases are compressible, this effect leads to reduced braking capability or uneven pedal feel. Replacing the old fluid with new, clean fluid obviously helps.
Flushing the system is as simple as bleeding it. This is even more imperative on ABS-equipped vehicles because that gunk in the system can lodge in the valves of the ABS unit. In fact, when changing brake pads on an ABS-equipped vehicle, it is generally recommended that you not force the old fluid back through the lines and ABS unit, but rather crack the bleeder screw on the caliper to let fluid out as you compress the caliper piston.
Are these procedures easy enough that the average Precision Tune, Firestone, etc. shop can do them properly even if their technicians are not especially proficient and are not knowledgeable about the specific make/model vehicle they are working on?
These sort of maintenance items are way beyond my skill and comfort level, so I would need to have a shop do the work.
What's a ballpark price for something like this? Having never paid for this work to be done, I have no idea.
Is there only one Isuzu dealer in Silver Spring? My experience a couple years ago with an Isuzu dealer in Silver Spring was an absolute nightmare. I'm glad you found a dealer you were comfortable with, and I'm glad you gave them your business instead of someone else.
If you're curious about the details of my experience I'd be happy to email you, or I could post a toned-down version here. I still have all the email correspondence from the dealer and my detailed notes. I never contacted American Isuzu or the Better Business Bureau. I'm very disappointed in myself for not doing that, because it was the right thing to do.
any certified brake shop should be able to handle this process. It's not really that difficult. If you have a local Firestone etc. they usually advertise brake services along with other service. If you have confidence in them to do tires, minor tuneups, and that sort of thing, you should be comfortable with them flushing/bleeding the brake system fluid. I've read the thread on it here the last couple days and a lot of good information has already been explained. I for one believe that bleeding the brake system is a SMART thing to do. I don't think it needs to be done more routinely that about every 50K miles though. That's about the timeframe I generally do mine. Each time, I've seen a somewhat darkened color fluid come out at first and then it clears up with 8-10 pumps of the brake pedal. The key is to purge enough fluid to get all of it out of the wheel cylinders where it's been exposed to heat produced during braking. This will extend the life of the elastomers (seals) in the system.
I have a 1999 Trooper with the entry level factory am/fm/cassette (no cd). Someone on Ebay is selling a similarly featured, but different looking, unit from a 2001. Currently the bidding is less than $30 with less than a day to go.
Anybody have an opinion about whether or not this might be an economical upgrade for my 1999?
Best to be diligent with tire rotation. I let mine go too long and the tires developed a really anoying roar. I had my tires "X" rotated ant it took a long time for that tire noise to work out.
My trooper is around 15K, I want to have tire rotation and wheel balance done. Should I have my vehicle in TOD mode or two wheel drive mode? Does it make any different?
Balance is done off the truck. Each tire is separately balanced on a machine to make sure it is properly weighted to spin without vibration or problems.
My '95 w/ 85k has a little problem. The front passenger outside, not inside, door handle is loose. All of the other handles are nice and tight with no play. This problem handle was a little loose about two months ago, but is now extremely bad. Here's a better description. The door handle when pulled, as if to open the door, opens a gap between the door and the handle of about 3/4" on the side closest to the back of the vehicle. The side of the handle which is closest to the front doesn't move, so no gap opens up. This forms a triangle shaped gap if viewed from the top or the bottom. I can almost see completely inside the door. Does anyone here know how to fix this problem and or have any hints as to how to remove the door panel? FYI: I just got back from a long drive (800 miles total) and some light off-road, but bumpy, trails. I think there is a screw loose/missing now!!!
I know there's a condenser fan on the newer Troopers, but does anyone have any real world experience comparing an old Trooper vs a new Trooper in very hot climates?
When the change was made to climate control, was the fan blower improved at all?
Our '98 has 50K miles and runs flawlessly, but I'm getting apprehensive about another Arizona summer in the Trooper. We have very dark tint and use a sun shade, but the a/c doesn't cut it here. The a/c shops say it's running fine. If I were to buy a newer Trooper I'd rather do it now than try to sell ours when the temperature is 110 degrees here!
OK so I asked someone with my manual (500 miles away) to scan some pics of it and e-mail them to me. A couple of minor things to look out for when removing the full door panel although I haven't done it yet. I plan to tomorrow. Hopefully the screw is somewhere in there still...it should be. If anyone needs the info of how to properly remove the front door panels let me know. I think I'm going to try and lube the power window mechanism at the same time
I have tried to look at Trooper specs on the http://www.isuzu.com web page. I can't find any. That makes it a very lame web page. Please let Isuzu know that people that like Troopers also like to do research on the vehicle they will buy. So, not having specs is loudly telling your customers to go away.
Trooper Length 187.8
HummerH2 Length 189.8
Trooper Width 72.2
HummerH2 Width 81.2
Trooper Height 72.2
HummerH2 Height 77.8
Trooper Weight 4455 lbs.
HummerH2 Weight 6400 lbs.
Trooper Turning Circle 38 ft
HummerH2 Turning Circle 44 ft
Why is the Duramax Diesel not standard equipment on the HummerH2? It sure is heavy enough for it.
56K Modems. I had a Motorola 56K modem with hardware controller chip on board that usually downloaded at 3K/sec or so. I upgraded the computer to a P4 1.5GHz and reluctantly installed one of those $17 software winmodems, now it downloads much faster 5K to 7K and up because the P4 is fast and the modem software does a much better job using compression. So, if you have a slow hardware modem in a fast GHz PC then try out a cheap software modem <$20 and see if it is not a lot faster.
That's with the 100 lb. spare inside, the second row seat folded and the third row seat removed. I predict by the end of 2003 there will be an option to mount the spare outside the HummerH2. .. How many Trooper owners would buy a $50K HummerH2 if it had the Isuzu Duramax Diesel and got 20mpg?
Someone apparently deleted my message. Go over to the sequoia board to find a lot of misinformation being propagated today, by someone I will not name this time, on how the trooper does not partition 15% to the front while in 4WD TOD and can not be used in 4WD like an AWD vehicle.
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Steve
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David
I have not done all of the service as recommended by the manual. However, I do everything myself. My vehicle will be coming up on 50k in a month or so. I will be doing everything as mentioned in the above posts at that time if I have not already performed the task. Please email me at chad.knott@kolbfasteners.com. if you need assistance in regard to this maintenance. I live in Gainesville, Georgia.
Is this the same in other states?
BTW, my Isuzu dealer charges about $350 on "special" (every other month).
-mike
Keep in mind that you may or may not have extended-life coolant installed. If you have "old" coolant, the manufacturer recommends changes every 2 yrs/30k miles. Brake fluid should be flushed every two years as well because it tends to absorb moisture.
If you read this board often, you will find that fluid change intervals are hallowed ground. Some will swear that you never should change fluids; others replace their oil every 2000 miles. It's personal preference in many cases.
Tom
Thanks
John
I don't think my dad has ever had brake fluid changed/flushed/etc. in his 35 years of vehicle ownership.
-mike
I find that the fluid in the reservoir usually looks fine. Whether it has picked up water and compromised its effectiveness/made it much more corrosive I don't know. The fluid at the brakes is certainly darker looking for the first couple of pumps.
Granted, this may be overkill especially if you don't keep your vehicles all that long and/or you have to pay to get the work done. I plan to keep my Trooper for 10+ years. I am willing to spend a couple a bucks and take 45 minutes every couple of years to flush them.
I have had good experience with only one dealer in Maryland. Criswell in Annapolis. I just bought new 02 LS and got a great deal. Was looking for used 99 to 01 LS and the dealer in Silver Spring kept switching trucks and prices. Stuff like yes we have an 2000 LS 4WD I'd get there and it would be 2WD or sorry it's only an S model but it is 4WD. When I asked about new they went right to LS at $33K and not willing to negotiate price. Criswell, said used LS' are near impossible to find and asked if they could come close would I look at new. Asked for best price Manager came back with hard number said try to beat at any dealer. No one in MD, DE, Southern PA or Northern VA came close. Most offered the $5k rebate but that was all.
Need to take in for fix on Drivers Seat and Drivers mirror. Will post experience.
As an overview, I almost empty the reservoir first with an old turkey baster being careful not to let air into lines. I then fill with new fluid. Then I go to a wheel and open and close the bleeder while my helper pushes, holds and releases the brake pedal. I do this until the fluid is clean. Of course you have to be careful to refill the reservoir lest you let air into the system and have to start over. Also, having a hose on the bleeder outlet and directing that into a clear bottle is also a good idea. This keeps brake fluid from flowing everywhere, lets you see what is going on, and can keep air from being sucked back in.
No doubt there is a good writeup somewhere on the net. Just be careful to get the ABS precautions correct as I guess you could mess up some sensor and/or get fluid squirting out under high pressure. Also, the wheel bleeding order is important in order to get all the old fluid out.
http://66.216.68.23/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=86&t=000267&p=
Flushing the system is as simple as bleeding it. This is even more imperative on ABS-equipped vehicles because that gunk in the system can lodge in the valves of the ABS unit. In fact, when changing brake pads on an ABS-equipped vehicle, it is generally recommended that you not force the old fluid back through the lines and ABS unit, but rather crack the bleeder screw on the caliper to let fluid out as you compress the caliper piston.
Regards,
Tom
These sort of maintenance items are way beyond my skill and comfort level, so I would need to have a shop do the work.
What's a ballpark price for something like this? Having never paid for this work to be done, I have no idea.
If you're curious about the details of my experience I'd be happy to email you, or I could post a toned-down version here. I still have all the email correspondence from the dealer and my detailed notes. I never contacted American Isuzu or the Better Business Bureau. I'm very disappointed in myself for not doing that, because it was the right thing to do.
I've read the thread on it here the last couple days and a lot of good information has already been explained. I for one believe that bleeding the brake system is a SMART thing to do. I don't think it needs to be done more routinely that about every 50K miles though. That's about the timeframe I generally do mine. Each time, I've seen a somewhat darkened color fluid come out at first and then it clears up with 8-10 pumps of the brake pedal. The key is to purge enough fluid to get all of it out of the wheel cylinders where it's been exposed to heat produced during braking. This will extend the life of the elastomers (seals) in the system.
Happy Trooping !!! ;->
Anybody have an opinion about whether or not this might be an economical upgrade for my 1999?
Jim
-mike
The Silver is mine, the Blue is SBCooke's.
More pics at http://isuzu-suvs.com/events
-mike
I learned from Sean's mistake! Easy on the gas, gently through the water
I should get one eventually.
-mike
When the change was made to climate control, was the fan blower improved at all?
Our '98 has 50K miles and runs flawlessly, but I'm getting apprehensive about another Arizona summer in the Trooper. We have very dark tint and use a sun shade, but the a/c doesn't cut it here. The a/c shops say it's running fine. If I were to buy a newer Trooper I'd rather do it now than try to sell ours when the temperature is 110 degrees here!
Thanks.
tidester
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I learned too, I go around until I get a snorkel.
I have a 56K at home, pics are no problem.
-mike
Trooper Length 187.8
HummerH2 Length 189.8
Trooper Width 72.2
HummerH2 Width 81.2
Trooper Height 72.2
HummerH2 Height 77.8
Trooper Weight 4455 lbs.
HummerH2 Weight 6400 lbs.
Trooper Turning Circle 38 ft
HummerH2 Turning Circle 44 ft
Why is the Duramax Diesel not standard equipment on the HummerH2? It sure is heavy enough for it.
http://www.hummer.com/html/h2_specs_features.html#dimensions
56K Modems. I had a Motorola 56K modem with hardware controller chip on board that usually downloaded at 3K/sec or so. I upgraded the computer to a P4 1.5GHz and reluctantly installed one of those $17 software winmodems, now it downloads much faster 5K to 7K and up because the P4 is fast and the modem software does a much better job using compression. So, if you have a slow hardware modem in a fast GHz PC then try out a cheap software modem <$20 and see if it is not a lot faster.
..
How many Trooper owners would buy a $50K HummerH2 if it had the Isuzu Duramax Diesel and got 20mpg?
Oh well at least we know.
The Assender may get a duramax option, hopefully, since it will have a V8 option.
-mike
I agree, a page with engine, axle, gear and other technical information similar to this would be a a good add-on to any isuzu page.
-mike
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Maybe edmunds should have a "you don't know nothin'" forum, and all those "issues" can be taken up there?