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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • loricrowloricrow Posts: 3
    Thank you to those who answered my em ail about my 1996 Blazer. The dealer has traded me a 2000 Ford Ranger and they have already sold the Blazer as of today. These people at this dealership call "Classic Auto Sales" in Lancaster, CA on K street were the greatest, this has brought back my faith in salesman. If you are looking to purchase a used car please believe me when I say this is the place to go in the Antelope Valley, they will work with you and they will not push, and the sales manager Kevin will go out of his way to go out a look for a car per your request so go down there and so them, tell them that Lori sent you!!!!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Thanks for letting us know how it turned out. Enjoy the truck!

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  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    "Also noticed that the power window driver's side 'clicks' when the window goes to the bottom. Any ideas on this one?"

    Is the switch or the window drive system clicking? The driver's side power window switch clicks when the window reaches bottom because the circuit breaker is shutting off power to motor, it is part of the "auto down" feature.
  • "Is the switch or the window drive system clicking? The driver's side power window switch clicks when the window reaches bottom because the circuit breaker is shutting off power to motor, it is part of the "auto down" feature. "

    I don't think it's the switch unless it 'breaks' and starts clicking again in less than a day (I had them look at it. It was quiet while trying it a bunch of times immediately after). One of the mechanics said matter of factly that it was the motor clutch but I can't see that failing that quickly either (started a day again after having both 'switch' and 'motor' replaced - but was initially gone when I picked it up).

    I don't think it's part of the auto down feature since I can get it to happen repeatedly if I hold down the window down button. But I don't get sound from either door when I do the passenger side...
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    The auto down on this type of truck is located on a pc board inside the 5-button control inside the armrest. The hard contact relay on this board is very small and there is no way you could hear it click, so the sound must be something else. When in auto down mode, the board monitors the running motor's armature pulses and opens the relay when the motor stalls at the end of window travel. There is also a backup "watchdog" function on the card that measures time from when the relay is latched and will turn it off "x" seconds later if it doesn't shut off from the end of travel motor stall. (X being a little longer than it should take to stop by itself.) Anyway if you hear a very fast clicking noise when the window gets all the way down it is probably the cheap plastic gears in the motor drive itself. The motor/gearbox is all one piece and the gears are really lame.
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    Forgot to mention-if your dealer replaced the drive motor unit but there is something wrong with the window assy. itself it is possible that the new motor unit is shot again. There is a strong counterspring, a goofy cable assy. and all sorts of things that could go wrong inside the door. Good luck!
  • tdnelsontdnelson Posts: 2
    Have '97 Blazer with tranny problem. Original tranny was completely rebuilt after failing which included tranny fluid getting hot and spewing out the overflow tube. Put all new parts in including new pump and also had shop add external tranny cooler. Was working great until on short trip this morning when fluid started overflowing again and was hot. Fortunately, took extended maintenance on tranny rebuild but am getting very frusturated at this situation. Thoughts??
  • First off, I own a 2001 Blazer which I have put 30k miles on with absolutely NO problems. The only things I have done are change the oil and rotate the tires. That's it. 4WD works like a champ, and this truck handles like a dream off-road. I'm usually towing - either a 23' boat or snowmobiles - on long trips several times each year with no problems, plenty of power - starting, stopping, AND up those long hills.

    To all those griping about their Blazers - I simply ask you this... What vehicle do you think you would buy that doesn't have the same types of stories that you are posting?

    Check the complaints section of Blazer's competitors... (keep in mind that the Blazer has MANY model years, which are not divided in any way)

    "It doesn't matter what vehicle it is or who made it, there will be people who love it and people who hate it."
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    "The hard contact relay on this board is very small and there is no way you could hear it click"

    You are wrong. In my 99 Blazer I hear the click when the auto feature shuts off the motor.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    My passenger's side reclining seat handle broke off the other day. I see it is a common problem. Has anyone attempted to repair this at home? If so, was it difficult and how much were the parts? I am using a small vise grip hand tool now where the handle was.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    My 99 Blazer is running about 45 psi when hot at 1500 rpms at 90 degrees F. At hot idle, it drops to about 25 psi. I am using 10w-30 synthetic Mobile1. Is this normal? My 2k Silverado is about 20 psi higher on both numbers with the same engine, but the Silverado does not have an oil cooler like the Blazer. The Blazer has 70k miles and Silverado has 9k. Both are using the same oil and filter.
  • tbcreativetbcreative Posts: 357
    I had mine repaired on my '98 Jimmy under warranty, but I think this may be an existing problem that GM is aware of. You may be able to get a service manager to check to see if GM will pay Goodwrench to cover the cost of this common problem. It's due to faulty parts, not wear, so GM should take care of it. I'm a pretty handy guy, and felt like I could repair it myself with the right parts instead of leaving my truck there for the day for a stupid handle. But my service manager, who I have a good friendship with, told me that it wasn't as simple as it looks. If I remember right, just to get at the bolt where it's connected, you have to remove the seat. I decided, since it was under warranty, and it was the summer in Arizona, I'd let them handle it (no pun intended). As far as the parts, it's just the handle with the gear post attached, a washer, lock washer, and a bolt, from what I recall.

    You may try the customer service line to see what they say first. I complained to them about the fact that those of us who order a factory sunroof don't get a dual visor or a 2nd row seat light in the roof to illuminate the center of the vehicle. About a month later I received a letter from GM letting me know I could go get a retro-fitted light for the 2nd row at the dealer, installed at no cost to me. No dual visor, which probably wouldn't fit with the extra bulge from the sunroof, but I was quite happy about the light. I noticed all the '99s with a sunroof, came with the light after that.
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    abc246, are you putting the window down with the engine off and radio too? Until about 5 months ago I worked on the robots that put these switches together for the supplier to GM. Are you sure you aren't hearing something from the window reaching the end of it's travel? I mean it's no big deal, just amazed that the relay on yours would be so loud that you could hear it while driving.
    To allthesame, I am glad you hven't had any problems with your truck. As you point out there are thousands of other happy owners out there. What irritates many of us is the fact that this basic body style has been pretty much unchanged for years, yet model year after model year the same problems keep occurring and GM doesn't correct, admit or fix them for the future owners, much less the ones that already dumped thousands of bucks into their truck, only to find out it's been that way for years and GM KNEW. The ball joints, wipers, oil cooler lines, coolant problems, hard shifts into second causing planetary spline shaft breakage. Over and over and over. They should listen to their own "professional grade" commercials and try to keep a straight face. JMHO :)
  • jkandmjjkandmj Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 95 Jimmy two weeks ago. It has been working just fine. After a round of golf I put the key in the ignition and it will not turn. Steering wheel is locked and auto shift lever is also locked. What is wrong?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Hopefully you're still not sitting at the 19th hole waiting for a response.

    I've heard of this sort of thing before - a bit of a snag in the interlock. Usual fix is to gently rock the steering wheel back and forth until you can get the key to turn.

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  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    I also noticed this. I drove my moms 2000 blazer last friday. I watched the oil gauge and it was moving like crazy. Idle it would drop then go up (25-45). My silverado (2000) rarely moves at all.

    Both run 5W-30 (mine is Mobil 1 and moms conventional stuff)
  • Very common... had the sending unit (back of the block) on my '97 Bravada replaced 3x before it settled out for about six months. Started to flicker again at idle and on the highway, 2300 rpm, 55-60 psig. (roughly). I've left it alone, as I change my Mobil 1 10w-30 and filter every 6K miles. No lubrication issues to date, with 65K miles.
  • wishnhigh1wishnhigh1 Posts: 363
    My dads 2000 blazer just recently deeloped a problem. The blinker clicking noise that comes out of the right speaker will start up even when the blinkers are not on. The blinker lights are not on, and the blinker switch is in the neutral position, and the emergency flashers are not on...but the clicking noise persists. It goes away when I step on the brakes.

    Has anybody had a problem like this? Any fixes for it?
  • gmpcgmpc Posts: 2
    I own a 2000 LT Blazer which vibrates. You can put the car in gear(D) and mash on the brake,accelerate a little and it starts vibrating. I took it to the dealer,they said they had three more like mine in the shop with the same problem and can't figure out what it is. Any suggestions?
  • tbcreativetbcreative Posts: 357
    GMPC, what you're experiencing sounds a lot like what I dealt with during the first year I had my '98 Jimmy. It was doing the exact same thing, but it would also hesitate when pulling out from a stop. Are you having that problem as well? If so, then it could be one of 2 things that were contributing to the problem my truck was having.

    The first thing they checked was the fuel pump, which they replaced after running a test on it and finding it faulty. I think GM did a recall on those soon after. That's what was causing my hesitation in taking off from a stop. The thing that they found was causing the vibration was my catalytic converter, of all things, which may also have been causing some hesitation as well, due to back-pressure. There were faulty parts inside that broke loose and were clogging it up. They replaced that too, but took 2 more visits before they figured that out. GM had a recall on the converters a year after that as well, which is when I had the same problem again, and had my 2nd converter replaced!

    I thought that was the end of my converter problems, until 2 years later, right after the truck was out of warranty of course, my truck was making a horrible vibration at idle. It went away after about 15 mph, but returned at every stop. It got a little better when I put it in park or neutral, so I figured it may be a transmission issue, but after all my converter experiences, I was still suspicious about that maybe being the source. I took it in to my service manager twice, the first time at no charge because they couldn't find the problem and the transmission was fine. I had explained to him that it started right after my last off-roading trip and I was suspicious about the catalytic converter, wondering if that would give him a clue about what to look for. But it wasn't until the second visit, that they got their "exhaust specialist" to check it out. This time, and you're not going to believe this, they found gravel and dirt had gotten crammed into the space between the heat shield and converter casing, which was keeping the exhaust from flexing, thus causing the vibration! Who would have guessed?! He didn't charge me much, because he felt bad about not catching something so goofy before, and he's a great guy too.

    Anyway, I don't know if any of that's what's causing your Blazer's problems, but it really sounds like an exhaust issue. One last thought, do you have the under-body shield package? Because I also had a loose bolt on my front transfer case shield that caused a rattling, but that doesn't sound like the same thing you're talking about. Hope that helps!
  • gmpcgmpc Posts: 2
    The first time I took my blazer in they replaced the catalytic converter. It didn't help the problem. It seems like the transmisson because when stress is put on it,like mashing the gas going 40 or so,it makes a lot of noise. When you take off it is also noisy. The vibration doesn't go away until you let off the gas pedal. It sounds like the muffler is loose and vibrating. Thanks for your help. Any other suggestions?
  • I agree that it isn't the relay/breaker for the window. It worked without noise for months, and then it started clicking. One guy said it might be the clutch slipping... I don't know how it's put together but bought a Hanes manual so maybe can check it out.

    As for the seat handle, it's reassuring to know that other people have had the same problem, and it's not something due to the owner (which seems unlikely since it's 99% driven with no passengers).

    As for the truck, still not complaining about it too much - no major problems considering the price/space&horsepower. Last gripe that I just remembered I had when I bought it was that for the trim package/year I had, I didn't get the leather because it's a 2-door, and for some reason didn't come with radio controls on the steering wheel. I guess I'm more concerned with getting from A to B than the toys so it didn't bother me too much.
  • chomz78chomz78 Posts: 1
    I realize that this is the forum for problems, and it becomes depressing. I've owned this truck since 1997. I've put on 85000 miles since then, for a total of 106000 miles. THe truck runs as nicely and as smoothly as it did in 1997. It did need a timing arm for the engine belt, and ball-joint (common problem under warranty). I've had minor problems with the Thermostat ( no heat in upstate ny in the winter is BAD!) but that is more of a result of cheap thermostat. Interior wise, my power seat broke, which is fine with me. It is right where i want it :)

    Overall, when someone asks me about my truck, i have nothing but great things to say. Im getting a new truck in the month. I wish they still made Jimmy's, i want a new one. Im leaning towards Jeeps now for that reason. BUT i loved my truck so much that i am looking for a new used one.

    PS: My aunt drives a 2000 Jimmy, and a friend drives a 1998 Blazer...that turnsignal noise is a problem. THe problem is actually in the steering column with the turn signal. For what my friend paid to get it fixed, he suggested that my aunt just turn up her radio :)
  • Beginning in 2000, the Blazer's 4.3L engine is equipped with a slightly longer spark plug (the insulator is 1/8 inch greater than in previous years). In reading the service manual, removal of the plugs is advised through the wheel wells. A sensible suggestion, and probably the only way to reach the plugs on the 90 degree engine. However, access to the middle plug on the driver's side is blocked by the intermediate shaft of the steering column. It is a circumstance not mentioned in the manual. Clearly, one can access the plug after removal of the intermediate shaft. However, has anyone been able to remove the driver's side middle plug without removing the intermediate shaft? If so, how was it accomplished?
  • c5862c5862 Posts: 1
    I received a letter from GM to extend my 96 Blazer 4x4 upper ball joints warrant to 8 year / 80kmi. Could anyone tell me how to inspect those ball joints? If ball joints were worn or damaged (GM said those joints could separate.), what kind of symptoms will develop?

  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    These plugs last 100k miles, you have that on a 2k Blazer? If so, I wouldn't replace that one. I had a Toyota Supra with extended plug life that were to be replaced at 60k. I drove that car to 145k with all the orginal plugs!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    I've heard it's a good idea to pull them at ~60,000 miles anyway just to make sure none of them "freeze" in place. You could always inspect them and put them back in.

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  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    Removing the plugs defeats the purpose of having extended service plugs. I have not had any problems removing plugs with 100k on them. If my 99 Blazer still runs perfect at 100k (it now has 71k) I will leave them in longer.

    I have found that you can actually do some damage with more frequent removals to the spark plug wires unless you are very careful.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572

    Tom and Ray

    Searching the net for frozen spark plugs turns up very little, so maybe it's nothing to worry about.

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