Kia Sedona Electrical Problems
We are currently having problems with our ESC.
The ESC Off light is on all the time.
A bit of background. We purchased our vehicle on president's day. Instead of taking it home there was an air bag sensor that came on that they wanted to take a look at. Nearly two weeks later we picked it up after sitting in the dealership for 3 hours. The after factory leather that was put in apparently caused issues with the passenger air bag monitor. So, they still didn't have the right part so they put a cloth seat until the new part came in. We hade the car for approximately a week and the ESC Off light was still on and we are waiting for the air bag part.
In the mean time the battery dies ... twice ... notwithstanding the jumping and allowing time to charge it. Oh, on two occassions when we started to drive with the wheel turned it felt as if the brake or something else grabbed at the tire and caused it to abruptly albeit briefly stop. Suffice to say we had road side assistance pick up our car and deliver it to our service department. Since that time they have replaced our battery, put back the leather seat with the appropriate air bag monitor but still cannot figure out the ESC Off light which I am told may be what caused the grab at the front tire.
Here I sit waiting for them to call and tell us our vehicle is actually fixed as I continue to make car payments.
Wish I could just return it.
The ESC Off light is on all the time.
A bit of background. We purchased our vehicle on president's day. Instead of taking it home there was an air bag sensor that came on that they wanted to take a look at. Nearly two weeks later we picked it up after sitting in the dealership for 3 hours. The after factory leather that was put in apparently caused issues with the passenger air bag monitor. So, they still didn't have the right part so they put a cloth seat until the new part came in. We hade the car for approximately a week and the ESC Off light was still on and we are waiting for the air bag part.
In the mean time the battery dies ... twice ... notwithstanding the jumping and allowing time to charge it. Oh, on two occassions when we started to drive with the wheel turned it felt as if the brake or something else grabbed at the tire and caused it to abruptly albeit briefly stop. Suffice to say we had road side assistance pick up our car and deliver it to our service department. Since that time they have replaced our battery, put back the leather seat with the appropriate air bag monitor but still cannot figure out the ESC Off light which I am told may be what caused the grab at the front tire.
Here I sit waiting for them to call and tell us our vehicle is actually fixed as I continue to make car payments.
Wish I could just return it.
0
Comments
My second Sedona lemon from KIA is still malfunctioning in the same manner. Air bag sensors, check engine light, esc light, abs light, tpms light, something in the suspension rattles and causes the brake pedal to jolt at the slightest bump.
The dealership and corporate Kia have both inspected the car 6 times and every single time they say, "The car is functioning as designed."
I agree with the statement to find a lemon law lawyer and get out if you can, but I think you'll find it to be a long, hard road. I've been working on it for months. Kia is very slow to acknowledge anything. GOOD LUCK!
What happens if they do fix it over the next ten days and then we have another problem? How does Lemon Law deal with this situation?
That being said, Consumer Reports did mention that the Sedona had some headlight issues. On my first drive at night, I did notice the headlights were very accurate. This was no bother until last night when we went for a drive in the mountains. Because of the way the lights were positioned, it was very difficult to see around turns. I started to understand why consumer reports did not give the Kia reports for the headlights. My question is: can I adjust the positioning of the headlights so that they aim higher? Has annyone else had this concern?
BTW, I believe either Mercedes, Volvo or BMW have lights that angle when set for driving in hill/mountain terrain...
I am not talking about completely repositioning the lights, rather just moving them so that I can see further ahead of me. I have owned many cars and trucks in the past and this is the first time I have ever seen anything like this.
but like i said, MORE LIGHTING POWER TO YA!
did you go projector
If anybody tracks down the source of this issue, link to a service bulletin, anything like that please let me know! I cannot afford a rental for a week or weeks and the dealer is scaring me it could take that long. As long as the ESC is actually functioning I don't give a flying fig about the light itself at this point.
This is not the only electrical type glitch I have. Periodically the car dings when I get out as though I left the keys in (they aren't). Reinserting and removing the key generally solves it but hoping it doesn't go like the ESC light now.
I had been chalking them both up to a fluke in that this car came with factory cruise control. But supposedly cruise control is not even available as an option according to the mfr site. Dealer didn't put it in, it came like that and it is Factory.
Does everybody with this problem have some sort of option that would effect wiring or put in something aftermarket? The only Sportage I found on the net with this ESC light business had an aftermarket towing package put in.
The first time I took it in, they recalibrated the automated steering sensor. Worked a few days and then started again. The next time they had it for 12 days and ended up replacing the sensor. The dealership told me they had never seen this problem since the ESC was introduced. It's been fine for a couple of weeks now but I still tense up when I go over bridges.
Has anyone of you encountered the same or similar problem?
WHY?
Thank You
Can't wait to return the vehicle after the lease!! :sick:
Andreas
Thanks in advance...
Cat
i have 2003 sedona with exact same issue.
any resolution?
thanks
mk glencrest
please advise- thanks
mk glencrest
:confuse:
Technical
Service
Bulletin
Model Sedona [VQ]
Group Brake System(41)
Number KT2007111401
Subject
SEDONA (VQ) ABS/ESC WARNING LAMP ON - POOR GROUNDS (Chassis 018)
Date Wednesday, November 14, 2007
Area N. America
- Description
Click here to open a PDF version of this TSB
Some 2006 – 2007 Sedona (VQ) vehicles with a production date earlier than March 8, 2006 may exhibit a customer concern of an ABS/ESC Warning Lamp (MIL) being illuminated. Various DTC’s such as C2402 or U0001 may also be stored in the control module – OR – the GDS Scan Tool may not be able to communicate with the ABS/ESC system at all. Do NOT replace an ABS/ESC unit without at least first applying the procedure described in this TSB. These symptoms may result from poor grounds at G19 and/or G20, caused by paint remains between the bolt and mating weld nut attaching the ground terminal to the body. This TSB provides a procedure to properly correct this condition. Remember too, that other poor connections may exist, and should also be checked prior to any part replacement.
Ground Point G19 – G20
Located Behind ABS/ESC Unit On LH (Driver’s) Side Outboard Panel
- Effective Vehicle Information
2006 – 2007 Sedona (VQ) produced before March 8, 2006
REQUIRED SST: Global Diagnostic System (GDS) with latest software version installed
- Parts Information
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION: Claim Type
Causal P/N
Qty.
N Code
C Code
Repair Description
Labor Op Code
Time
Related Parts
Qty.
W
58920 4D300
0
N69
C15
Removal of paint from ground bolt
95660F00
0.3
NA
0
N69: Warning Light On
C15: Poor Contact
- Service Procedure
Repair Procedure
1. Remove and set aside the engine cover. (4 bolts)
2. Disconnect the Mass Air Flow Sensor’s (MAF) electrical connector.
NOTE: Slide the gray colored lock tab slightly in the direction indicated by the arrows in the photograph, which will expose the release tab for the connector. If this is not done first, the MAF connector will be damaged. Gray lock tab is shown here in the released (outward) position.
3. Loosen the hose clamps at the MAF and throttle assembly. Remove and lay aside the air intake hose as shown, so it’s out of the way.
4. Release the two spring clips that attach the air filter assembly cover. Remove the cover (with MAF attached) and the air filter insert. This will allow better access to G19 and G20.
5. Locate the ground point for G19 and G20. It is located behind and close to the ABS/ESC unit, on the LH (driver’s) side outward panel.
6. Using a ¼” drive ratchet, 14” extension and 10mm flex / swivel socket, reach behind the ABS/ESC unit to remove the G19 – G20 ground bolt.
You may need to insert your other hand over-top of the ABS/ESC unit (between the brake fluid reservoir and PCM) to guide the socket onto the bolt head.
The bolt used for G19 – G20 is a self-tapping bolt, which collects debris when first inserted. The next steps will provide a procedure to clean and further remove any remaining debris from this bolt and its threaded hole.
7. First, move the ground lug away from the threaded hole so no debris will collect on or between the ground surfaces during the thread cleaning process.
• Clean the removed bolt threads with a stiff bristle brush. (Do NOT use a wire wheel, as this can damage the bolt’s self-tapping capability!)
• Reinstall the bolt fully without attaching the ground lug.
• Run the bolt in-and-out completely 3 times (without fully removing) to clean the body’s threaded area.
• Once again, completely remove the bolt and clean the threads with a stiff bristle brush.
• Use compressed air to blow any remaining debris from the threaded hole, body surface and the self-tapping threads on the bolt.
8. Reinstall the ground lug on the bolt and fully tighten the bolt to the body.
NOTE: Be certain that the hook on the ground lug is inserted into its mating hole when reinstalling bolt. Otherwise, the ground lug may become deformed and not provide a proper ground.
9. Install all parts in the reverse order of removal. Clear any DTC’s that may have been generated. Cycle the ignition key OFF, and then back ON. Make sure the ABS/ESC light (MIL) turns ON for the lamp check, and then turns OFF after several seconds. If the MIL comes back on, check for any stored DTCs, and repair as necessary referencing the service information.
Good luck
Has the dealer checked for a draw? Radio's, alternators, power seats are all known problems that can cause parasitic draws. These can be very troublesome and sound a little as to what your describing. The 06 sedona is a whole different platform than previous years. You may also want to try another dealer, if not call consumer affairs, that goes a long way in getting it fixed.
Try asking the dealer to look at this:
TSB No. KT2007092001
Some 2006 – 2007 Sedona (VQ) vehicles produced before April 18, 2007 may exhibit a customer concern in which the engine will not crank (starter will not engage) when attempting to start the engine. In some cases, this condition may be caused by higher than normal resistance across the Burglar Alarm Relay located inside the In Panel Module (IPM). This relay is not a serviceable item, and if defective requires the replacement of the IPM. Other concerns such as poor pin connections and other faulty components in the starter’s circuit may also cause higher than normal circuit resistance, and should be considered before condemning and replacing the IPM. The following test procedure has been developed to assist you in determining whether the problem is the Burglar Alarm Relay in the IPM, or is related to some other area of the starter’s circuit. It’s recommended that this TSB be read in its entirety before attempting to perform this test procedure for the first time.
When you come to you van and it's dead the wireless key remote does not unlock the doors right? I think the alarm is designed to kill power to the ignition and other things so a fault sounds right. I would not be shocked if the tsb I just listed is the culprit. Let us know what happens.