After the folks in Indiana ramp up production and get their proverbial ducks in a row for 2002 product, it'll be 8 weeks' time before folks see 2002 Sequoia or Tundra product.
Looking to purchase an SR5 2WD w/CQ, alloy pkg, and roof rack in about 1 month. I, too, am in the Phoenix area. Sounds like you got a decent deal. Who was your dealer and what was your experience with them? Any other options that anyone feels are a MUST? Sounds like its getting a bit easier to make a good deal on one of these. Also, does anyone know what changes will be made with the 2002 models? Thanks in advance!
Has anyone experienced an episodic ticking sound which seems to originate from the console between the two front seats. It appears to come perhaps from the rear air conditioning control region. The ticking is not as loud as the two initial clicks you hear from the central dash when driving but is still annoying none the less. It occurs independent of AC or any particular motion i.e. acceleration. Any help would be appreciated prior to having toyota disassemble the console. Thanks.
I had a similar ticking sound that drove me nuts for awhile (separate from the engine tick that I got fixed). It was coming from under the passenger seat and it was from a cable (power cable) to either the seat heater or the motor that moves it back and forth. The noise was very noticeable on bumpy roads but not at all on smooth roads and may not apply to your situation. The cable was rubbing against a piece of plastic on the front part of the seat. I could have sworn it was coming from the dash but I finally spent some time and figured out this was the problem. I put some foam tape around it and this fixed the problem. This is a Limited. The problem may not be Toyota's because I had a DVD navigation unit installed under the seat and the installed had previously removed the seat. The point is squeaks and rattles can be very hard to isolate.
brtoy - what are the two initial ticks? I just picked up my new Sequoia Friday and I hear these two ticks.
rozubo -I just picked up an SR5. I think the sunroof is a must. Without it, the multiple sunglass holders are a bit awkward looking. There is nothing better than the natural light and air provided by the sunroof.
suznjones, Thanks for the info and would definitely looking forward to seeing your pics of both the hood protector and clear bra before making any decision...Any others has the hood protector installed in your Seq? Is it a must to minimize the chips & nicks as well as the bugs?? Any iuputs will be highly appreciated.
Does anyone has the same water dripping from the passenger side rear bumper? I started to notice that after parking there is some water dripping from the rear bumper (behind the right side rear wheel)onto my driveway? Is this just AC condensation since I had the front and rear AC on? or something else?? Any idea...
Glad to hear of your satisfaction. I think its funny that your glowing review didn't produce any reaction, but those who post problems get a lot of attention.
Concure on sunroof as a must. I never saw the need for one in my near 40 years but my wife was adament. In a word, the SR on this vehicle is stunning. Gives a wonderful light, breezy, and open air feeling to cabin. We don't open it up very much, but we always leave the light in. Closing the shade gives an immediate sense of a darker and smaller space. Just as big an effect even on a dark rainy days. TRy it for yourself on a test drive of opening and closing shade. Also there are those magical 70 degree days and you're tooling down a shade dappled twisty backroad when you let the air in and....
Latest calculation shows 15.1 mpg with mostly trips of less than 15 miles distance in 2 wheel drive mode. The computer was showing 15.6.
When the truck was in 4x4 mode, it got worse gas mileage and greater discrepancy with the computer's reading. My opinion is to never trust computer results without verying them first.
your observation is right on the money. But there are genuine problems out there that needs addressing. Some can be helped out here in the forum, others more serious needs your help (dealership, that is) and Toyota's. Let us hope that both are listening and willing to help the owners on their important issues.
Seqlady, thanks for a well written report. Glad you had a good trip.
BTW, someone asked what the 2 ticks you hear after the vehicle goes into Drive is: These are the vehicle self-checks for the VSC and the A-TRACS, and are described in the Toyota Manual. Check it out...
Looks like I got a 2wd LTD Sequoia with more problems than most..... lucky me(but I still like the car!). I drove my Sequoia over 700 miles this past week on vacation and noticed a "clicking" sound coming from around the dash/center console when I hit large road bumps or pot-holes. Being somewhat mechanically inclined, impatient, and having some extra time on my hands, I decided to try and find the origin of the noise and fix it.
After driving up and down a bumpy dirt road for 2 days, I finally located the problem. As you face the dash, there are two vertical steel members located behind the radio and center A/C controls that support the dashboard from the floor. The radio and amplifier are mounted to these supports. Without removing anything, I could reach behind the left side front of the center console and create this "clicking" noise by holding the outer console with my left palm and squeezing the vertical steel frame piece with my fingers. However, I believe the center console will have to be removed to fix it. It's not too difficult to remove, but probably better left to the toyota service department.
Anyhow, the problem area is: There is a piece of framework mounted at the floor level (actually on the "hump"). This square frame is attached by four 12mm bolts and supports what appears to be an electrical junction box or some type of electronic device(s).It is centrally located between the two vertical dash supports. Anyhow, the back left edge (toward the engine)of this frame was rubbing against the back edge of the left hand vertical dash support. To fix it, I simply inserted a small screwdriver between the two parts and spread them apart a bit.
On another issue, the gas needle on my Sequoia never quite reaches the top white "full" mark when the tank is full, and has been very erratic and sometimes indicating I have much less fuel than I know to be in the tank. Also, when it reaches 1/4 tank or less, after turning the engine off for a while, on re-start the gas light comes on for up to five minutes before the needle moves off empty. Has anyone else seen or heard about this or related problems? Cliffy1, you appear to be the resident expert. Have you heard of anything like this before? I think the float in my tank is sticking, but not sure - could be the gauge itself I guess.
I've been watching this board for several weeks and appreciate all the great information--with special thanks to Cliffy who seems to really know his product. I am now ready to purchase either an '01 or '02, loaded, 4X2 SR5.
Has anyone had a good experience with a dealer in or near Louisville, Ky? The dealers I've encountered are either inexperienced (ie, they say that the SR5 doesn't come with leather as an option and that the cars can't be ordered from Toyota...)or they are still trying to sell at MSRP or above on the '01 models.
The 2002 Sequoias are being allocated on the west coast now, and the leather package is available as an order so please consult another dealer there who knows what they are doing out there. Don't give up. Ask the board members here in your area where they got their deals or where they found a good, knowledgeable dealer. This board is a bevy of great information.
Haven't seen anyone mention the Blast Fax technique lately, but it's another route to think about (a variation of it worked well for me, fwiw). And remember, most salespeople are taught to sell what's sitting on the lot and may not be trained in ordering or finding your model. Steve Host Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I can't help in regards to the clear bra, but I did install a hood protector on our Highlander the first day we brought it home. After constantly having to touch up little chip areas on our '97 Avalon, I was determined to avoid that on the HL at all costs. Not only does it protect the leading edge and frontal half of the hood, it also sends a lot of the debris OVER the windshield instead of into it. It's relatively inexpensive...just a matter of whether or not you like the look of it. Maybe others here can speak as to the look of one on the Seq.
Well, with all the talk about the Ford Exploder and tires, here's one for the Seq.
This weekend, I was on 495 heading toward's 90 (Mass Pike). At 70-75 MPH, in the middle lane, heard a loud Bang, and what sounded like sand scraping... it was, as you guessed, the tire. I pulled over, and by the time I got out of the Seq, the left rear (ie. driver's side) was totally flat.
Got the jack and stuff out, dropped the spare, and loosened the lugs. Trying to find the lift point was interesting, not sure if I did find it, but got the tire off the ground via the rear axle, looks like the lift point, not sure it was the proper one.
Changed the tire. I have Dunlop AT21 Grand Trek P265/70R15 tires on there, run then about 40 PSIG. Just me in the car (all of 170 lbs), plus light luggage.
Just glad it didn't take the front tire out. Surprisingly, the Seq was very controllable, able to get the tire changed after I figured out the jack, and lift points. I have been working on cars since I was a little guy, and changing a tire is the first thing I learned.
Now have to see if they are going to scrap the tire. I had 5200 miles on the tires (and truck). Dunlop's don't carry a roadharzard, only a manufacturing warranty. If you run over something, they don't have to replace it for you.
gwkiser, many thanks for your input. I too had been thru touching up on my '98 Montero constantly (actually I had to replace my windshield once because of the rocks cracked it). I was determined to get the hood protector for my seq too. But I have not seen one yet on any Seq so I was wondering the look of it on my hood. Could anyone here with the hood protector please send me some pics?? Thanks in advance. JKL
Have you tried Greentree Toyota in Jeffersonville? Years ago I couldn't get the Louisville dealers to look for a particular type of pickup truck for me. They also said I couldn't order one. I went to Greentree and they pulled out their vehicle listings and we had a deal that day. If you don't mind driving, try Kings Toyota http://www.kingstoyota.com/ in Cincinnati. I got a Camry from them and had both vehicles serviced by them. Very good people
By Sept 2002, all new cars must be equipped with "LATCH" type restraints for attaching to infant/children car seats. Does anyone know if the 2001 Sequoia has these LATCH restraints? I recall seeing some tether anchors behind the 2nd row seats in my Sequoia, but I believe this may be different from the LATCH type anchors. Am looking at buying a new car seat for my 9 month old baby and was wondering if the latest car seat designs are compatible with the Sequoia.
Maybe you can educate me a bit. These latch points (called ISO-FIX?), can they be used with any car seat or are they meant for a new generation of car seats that have some sort of special attachment feature? Do they supplement or replace the need for a seat belt attachment?
I understand that the 2002's are beginning to be shipped into the Denver, CO market. Does anyone know if there will be a price increase on the Limited or on any of the options? So far neither KBB or Edmunds has 2002 pricing on their website. Any other places to search for pricing on the internet?
Honestly, I'm not sure. I know that any new generation child seat will have the attachments at the base, but I don't think that is intended to be a subsitiute for the seat belt.
Pricing has not been released. I just looked on our internal system and the 02 still shows no pricing. All other new products have either stayed the same or gone down this year.
The LATCH (Lower Anchors and Tethers for CHildren) is a system which includes easy to use seat base attachments and a tether attachment. The anchors at the seat base consist of some kind of steel loop that allows a LATCH compatible seat to clip to with special clips. It also allows for straightforward tightening of the seat. These definitely DO replace the need for a seat belt. The tether is the same as the tethers that have been around for a while.
There are only a couple of seats with the LATCH (ISO-Fix) attachments. There is one by COSCO and one by Fisher-Price. The car makers are ahead of the seat makers!
The reason for implementing the LATCH system is to make it straightforward enough for more people to install the seat in the same safe way. There are studies that have found upwards of 80% of all car seats are installed incorrectly in some way, usually too loose or using the wrong kind of belt. If you read your seat manual very closely, it is almost impossible to meet all the requirements of the old style seat.
Thank you rward99 for the information reguarding dealers in/near Louisville, Ky.
I have heard good things about the two dealers recommeded and have contacted Greentree Toyota in Jeffersonville, In. twice in the past 2 1/2 weeks. The Manager there "misplaced" our number after our initial conversation, and hasn't gotten back to us after our follow up call 3 days ago. We don't mind driving and will try Kings Toyota along with the "Blast Fax" route Steve recommended. (Thank you, Steve for that idea!)
Are the Sequoia's selling that quickly here or is a loaded 4x2 SR5 an unusual request? Should we just wait for the 02' inventory build up? We are open to either an 01 or 02.
We are open to any other ideas, too. The Lincoln/Mercury Dealer has been very professional in his follow up, too bad we are not interested in the Mountaineer.
Well, if your faxes are ignored (and they may be, since the Sequoia is a popular model - I know what you are thinking cliffy1 ), you could try an internet quote. Edmunds links to some with our PowerShopper, and there's Priceline and others.
A google.com search will turn up additional internet savvy dealers, and the SUV can be delivered to you from about anywhere.
But if you find the rig you want sitting on the lot nearby, a fax can do the trick and save a lot of hassle and time.
Am I back-pedaling too fast? Steve Host Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
You may want to try email also. I think you can get dealer info off Toyota's website. Email is cheaper than faxing and they usually go to the internet or fleet departments if you make a purchase request.
Steve, you are correct that I disdain the fax method. You're asking for a rough road by going this route. You may be as lucky as others on this topic have been or you may run into something else that will only reinforce your notions of really bad dealerships.
Many dealerships look at fax bids different than e-mail requests for prices. They assume you are not savvy enough to find their web site or send an e-mail. They also know that they have little chance of every meeting you so they choose to mess with you. Beyond outright lies, they will do things like "forget" to add for certain options. For instance, if you ask for a Sequoia with the moonroof, and alloy wheels, the dealer should know that you also want the typical equipment such as the whole AH package, rear AC and roof rack. Instead of quoting a real vehicle, they will quote only those options you want while knowing that they can't get you the exact one they just quoted.
They do this for only one reason: To get you in the door and negotiating. That is the entire objective. They figure they have a much better shot at "closing" you if you are in their showroom. Whatever it takes to get you sitting in the office is considered fair game.
If I left the car business and wanted to get the "best" deal (which I maintain is not always the best price), I would select the car I wanted, find a dealer and a salesman who treated me with respect and stick with them to find a mutually beneficial price. I wouldn't grind them for the last dollar as long as they treated me in a manner that I was comfortable with. I may pay a couple hundred more, but I would maintain my dignity.
Cliffy-Thanks for your insight reguarding faxes. I agree with you that it is worth it in the long run to maintain a positive relationship with car dealers; they should make a "reasonable" profit and the costumer deserves professional treatment. Along those lines, is it "OK" to ask a dealer who has sold me several cars over the years, but doesn't rep Toyota to look into obtaining one for me? Am I just asking for trouble or will he be "ok" with this. I have test driven his current line and am not interested.
Got it! (Note the delete key -- you can delete a post of yours at any time). Let us know how your search goes. Steve Host Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Good info on the blown tire. Were you in 2WD or 4WD? Also, did you notice whether the VSC came on? Some other SUVs have the problem of the back coming around to the front when the back tire blows. Glad to see this is not the case with the sequoia.
The Sequoia has three seating positions where you can install a LATCH child car seat: middle row left (driver's side) and center; and rear right. I have installed two Fisher Price Safe Embrace II LATCH car seats installed in the two middle seat positions - and they work great! The one nice thing about the Sequoia is that you can install three car seats in the middle row seats at the same time. Most other vehicles, the seat is not wide enough to accommodate more than two seats at a time.
The Sequoia also provides top-tether attach-points for all rear seat positions. The curious part is that that for each rear seating position, the top-tether is mounted to the bottom back of the seat, except for the middle left seat, the attachment point is on the floor, which is a little harder to access. Although this is not a big issue, it would be more convenient to have it installed on the seat bottom.
Note: When using the LATCH system, you do not need to use the seat belts to secure the car seat. When using LATCH and the top-tether, the car seat is very secure and does not budge.
If you are looking for new car seats, I highly recommend the Fisher Price SEII.
Unfortunately, most dealers can't get competing car lines for you. The only exception is dealers that are part of a larger group and one of the stores in that group is a Toyota store.
I'll give ya'll a real world example of finding the right dealership. My dad lives in Northern CA and has a Toyota store 2 miles from his house. He can't stand them. They are "old school" in the worst way. It is so bad, for his last car, he flew to VA to buy one from me and drove it 2800 miles home rather than deal with their garbage.
He was in a town 45 miles from his house recently and stopped by their Toyota store. He ran into some very friendly and honorable people. He spent a fair amount of time talking to them. They provided him with some information that he called me to confirm. They were 100% honest with him. He paid $500 over invoice for a 2001 Camry. He could have beat them down for another few hundred bucks but didn't bother. He was just so happy to find an honest dealer that he was glad to let them make a few bucks. From start to finish, they didn't pressure him, nor lie to him.
It took some looking, but the good dealers do exist. By doing business with them, you reward good business practices and encourage a departure from the games that we all complain about.
Try Toyota of Knoxville (TN). Only a 4 hour drive for you. I ordered an SR5 2WD with EXACTLY what I wanted on it for about 2% over invoice. Did have to wait for the vehicle because it was a special order but it was well worth it.
Just returned from a weekend road trip, our first with our new 2WD SR5. Love the spacious, well appointed interior and we got a lot of attention from other drivers--it is an attractive vehicle! There are not many yet in our region.
However, my husband and I both noticed that the Sequoia seemed to "float" around at 70 mph (i.e. felt like it drifted a lot and you had to really stay on top of your steering). We have both driven a Ford Explorer (granted, a smaller vehicle) for years and never noticed this sensation with it. The wind, transfer truck drafts, etc. seem to have a very strong influence on the vehicle. Frankly, this feeling of drifting easily made the vehicle seem a little unsafe??? Has anyone else had this sensation?
I have a 2wd LTD and have not experienced the problem you have described. Sorry I couldn't be of some assistance.
Good luck. Hope you don't get the same cold shoulder and lack of response I have received for bringing up problem(s).
It's a shame that some who are obviously financially tied to Toyota have created an environment of so much biasness toward the positives of this vehicle and Toyota as a company, (and an obvious unwillingness to discuss the negatives) it has stifled the candid, open, and objective communication needed on this site.
I have a 4WD SR5. Have had it up over 70 and did not experience the floating problem. Could be just the full-size SUV catching wind more than you are used to. However, posts 2770 and 2776 discussed a change to the caster alignment that made the 4WD vehicle more stable at highway speeds. Could there be a similar problem on 2WD vehicles? This was also discussed in the Tundra board.
Anyone know what, if any, changes to ride, handling, mileage, gear ratio, etc. occur with the SEQ. when changing the 16" factory wheels to 17". I've seen a couple around town with the larger wheels/rims and think they look much better. Any word yet on changes for the '02 models? SCSOMAN1... if you're out there, I'd love to know which dealer in Phoenix you used and what was your experience with him/her. Thanks in advance!
Can you maybe add one more bit of info to the useful info you have provided?
One of my main interests in the LATCH or ISOFIX systems is whether or not the seat is easier to install. I feel that I am able to securely install my current car seats using the belts, but I dread ever having to take the car seats out and reinstalling them. It is definitely a pain putting them back in. Does the LATCH system make reinstallation painless or is it still a little bit of work? I have not yet seen a LATCH car seat in person, so I have never seen the actual locking mechanism.
I find the LATCH seats are much easier to install "correctly" than non-LATCH seats - and maybe a bit faster. Instead of fishing the seat-belt around the back of the car seat, you now just reach down around each side and connect the LATCH buckle to the seat attach points, put your knee and weight on the car seat, and snug-up each of the LATCH belts.
The LATCH buckles on the Fisher Price SEII look just like the buckle for the top-tether. Per a previous post, there are currently only two car seats that have LATCH attachments - both have a similar buckle system. The LATCH system also is supposed to support a "rigid" attachment system - which may allow faster installs. My guess is that these seats should be introduced sometime next year, when all baby car seats will require LATCH.
I thought I saw a brief reference to this before, but cannot now find it on this board:
According to Edmunds, the Sequoia is "Structurally identical to the Tundra from the front doors forward." Although the Tundra did pretty well in the IIHS test, it didn't fair so well in the NHTSA tests (3 stars frontal ratings on both sides).
Anyone have thoughts about how this would apply to the Sequoia?
Alright...I planned on purchasing a new Sequoia for my husband's birthday which isn't until Sept. I have been CLOSELY watching the prices of the 2001's fall from $2300 over invoice to just $1100 over invoice (per CarsDirect.com) for over the last month and a half. I was hoping to get it down to around $1000, at the very least. My credit union has also lowered it's rate to 6.74 over 6 years. My question is this: If Toyota is just beginning to announce it's year-end clearance and the new prices for the 2002's, exactly how much time do I have left to get the 2001 of my choice and what date do we expect these 2002's to actually GET to the dealerships? I still have dealers telling me $1600 over invoice or forget it and I bet anything they will want to add in another $425 for advertising fees, which CarsDirect.com has already included in their final price, ie. the $1100 over invoice noted above INCLUDES the advertising fee already. Can I hold out until the last week of August to make a deal or do I need to act quickly? Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!!!
The 2002 Sequoias allocated this week/next week won't be at the stores til the very end of August, but that does depend on your geographical locale. Stands to reason that anyone closer to Indiana gets their Sequoias and Tundras faster than someone on either coastline.
The way Toyota Motors handle this is that they allow dealer allocations to pretty well dry up (allocate far fewer cars) while they start the build process of the new models, making things slim pickings for a few weeks while new cars are coming. I think that it really is a comfort level issue for you about the timing. If this is a gift, you don't want to be caught with no present at the birthday time, so acting in advance to gather information and make good decisions is the right thing for you to do based on your criteria.
the best time for you to buy is when you are ready. I am positive you can buy a 2001 or 2002 at $1000 over almost at anytime you are ready depending on which region you are in.
Watch out for the supply and demand factor on the Sequoia right now. A buyer stating that this is a 2001 and will be an old unit in a month or so may be correct as long as no one else is wanting to buy the vehicle you are wanting. The dealer needs to look at the Sequoia right now as I only have "X" many left and the 2002 will not be out until "X" and I do not need to "give away" the last few because no other dealers will have any in a couple of weeks and then mine will demand a premium.
We are famous for having Sequoia and Crusier invoice sales from time to time that people from different regions fly in and drive away in with no strings attached but if the regulars on this board will tell you we have not done that in the past couple of months and I do not expect any changes in our pricing until the 2002 arrive. You probably will not see invoice on a Sequoia for a while until the 2002 are flowing and dealers are confident that they can sell one at a smaller profit level and still have 20 more on the lot.
As a last thought that may make you feel better! I know that there are a lot of dealers like myself that look at profit as profit and it is hard to tell someone that I am not interested in someone's business because of a few dollars. When you are ready go down or call your local dealer and tell them you are interested in "X" at "X" over invoice and start enjoying your Sequoia. It really can be that easy. Honesty and understanding from a buyer will get far better results from me then someone acting like a fool.
Comments
rozubo -I just picked up an SR5. I think the sunroof is a must. Without it, the multiple sunglass holders are a bit awkward looking. There is nothing better than the natural light and air provided by the sunroof.
JKL
JKL
Enjoy that wonderful beast.
Just as big an effect even on a dark rainy days.
TRy it for yourself on a test drive of opening and closing shade. Also there are those magical 70 degree days and you're tooling down a shade dappled twisty backroad when you let the air in and....
cheers
When the truck was in 4x4 mode, it got worse gas mileage and greater discrepancy with the computer's reading. My opinion is to never trust computer results without verying them first.
Seqlady, thanks for a well written report. Glad you had a good trip.
BTW, someone asked what the 2 ticks you hear after the vehicle goes into Drive is: These are the vehicle self-checks for the VSC and the A-TRACS, and are described in the Toyota Manual. Check it out...
After driving up and down a bumpy dirt road for 2 days, I finally located the problem. As you face the dash, there are two vertical steel members located behind the radio and center A/C controls that support the dashboard from the floor. The radio and amplifier are mounted to these supports. Without removing anything, I could reach behind the left side front of the center console and create this "clicking" noise by holding the outer console with my left palm and squeezing the vertical steel frame piece with my fingers. However, I believe the center console will have to be removed to fix it. It's not too difficult to remove, but probably better left to the toyota service department.
Anyhow, the problem area is: There is a piece of framework mounted at the floor level (actually on the "hump"). This square frame is attached by four 12mm bolts and supports what appears to be an electrical junction box or some type of electronic device(s).It is centrally located between the two vertical dash supports. Anyhow, the back left edge (toward the engine)of this frame was rubbing against the back edge of the left hand vertical dash support. To fix it, I simply inserted a small screwdriver between the two parts and spread them apart a bit.
On another issue, the gas needle on my Sequoia never quite reaches the top white "full" mark when the tank is full, and has been very erratic and sometimes indicating I have much less fuel than I know to be in the tank. Also, when it reaches 1/4 tank or less, after turning the engine off for a while, on re-start the gas light comes on for up to five minutes before the needle moves off empty. Has anyone else seen or heard about this or related problems? Cliffy1, you appear to be the resident expert. Have you heard of anything like this before? I think the float in my tank is sticking, but not sure - could be the gauge itself I guess.
Has anyone had a good experience with a dealer in or near Louisville, Ky? The dealers I've encountered are either inexperienced (ie, they say that the SR5 doesn't come with leather as an option and that the cars can't be ordered from Toyota...)or they are still trying to sell at MSRP or above on the '01 models.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Fiery
Steve
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This weekend, I was on 495 heading toward's 90 (Mass Pike). At 70-75 MPH, in the middle lane, heard a loud Bang, and what sounded like sand scraping... it was, as you guessed, the tire. I pulled over, and by the time I got out of the Seq, the left rear (ie. driver's side) was totally flat.
Got the jack and stuff out, dropped the spare, and loosened the lugs. Trying to find the lift point was interesting, not sure if I did find it, but got the tire off the ground via the rear axle, looks like the lift point, not sure it was the proper one.
Changed the tire. I have Dunlop AT21 Grand Trek P265/70R15 tires on there, run then about 40 PSIG. Just me in the car (all of 170 lbs), plus light luggage.
Just glad it didn't take the front tire out. Surprisingly, the Seq was very controllable, able to get the tire changed after I figured out the jack, and lift points. I have been working on cars since I was a little guy, and changing a tire is the first thing I learned.
Now have to see if they are going to scrap the tire. I had 5200 miles on the tires (and truck). Dunlop's don't carry a roadharzard, only a manufacturing warranty. If you run over something, they don't have to replace it for you.
JKL
Maybe you can educate me a bit. These latch points (called ISO-FIX?), can they be used with any car seat or are they meant for a new generation of car seats that have some sort of special attachment feature? Do they supplement or replace the need for a seat belt attachment?
As always, thanks in advance.
There are only a couple of seats with the LATCH (ISO-Fix) attachments. There is one by COSCO and one by Fisher-Price. The car makers are ahead of the seat makers!
The reason for implementing the LATCH system is to make it straightforward enough for more people to install the seat in the same safe way. There are studies that have found upwards of 80% of all car seats are installed incorrectly in some way, usually too loose or using the wrong kind of belt. If you read your seat manual very closely, it is almost impossible to meet all the requirements of the old style seat.
I have heard good things about the two dealers recommeded and have contacted Greentree Toyota in Jeffersonville, In. twice in the past 2 1/2 weeks. The Manager there "misplaced" our number after our initial conversation, and hasn't gotten back to us after our follow up call 3 days ago. We don't mind driving and will try Kings Toyota along with the "Blast Fax" route Steve recommended. (Thank you, Steve for that idea!)
Are the Sequoia's selling that quickly here or is a loaded 4x2 SR5 an unusual request? Should we just wait for the 02' inventory build up? We are open to either an 01 or 02.
We are open to any other ideas, too. The Lincoln/Mercury Dealer has been very professional in his follow up, too bad we are not interested in the Mountaineer.
A google.com search will turn up additional internet savvy dealers, and the SUV can be delivered to you from about anywhere.
But if you find the rig you want sitting on the lot nearby, a fax can do the trick and save a lot of hassle and time.
Am I back-pedaling too fast?
Steve
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Many dealerships look at fax bids different than e-mail requests for prices. They assume you are not savvy enough to find their web site or send an e-mail. They also know that they have little chance of every meeting you so they choose to mess with you. Beyond outright lies, they will do things like "forget" to add for certain options. For instance, if you ask for a Sequoia with the moonroof, and alloy wheels, the dealer should know that you also want the typical equipment such as the whole AH package, rear AC and roof rack. Instead of quoting a real vehicle, they will quote only those options you want while knowing that they can't get you the exact one they just quoted.
They do this for only one reason: To get you in the door and negotiating. That is the entire objective. They figure they have a much better shot at "closing" you if you are in their showroom. Whatever it takes to get you sitting in the office is considered fair game.
If I left the car business and wanted to get the "best" deal (which I maintain is not always the best price), I would select the car I wanted, find a dealer and a salesman who treated me with respect and stick with them to find a mutually beneficial price. I wouldn't grind them for the last dollar as long as they treated me in a manner that I was comfortable with. I may pay a couple hundred more, but I would maintain my dignity.
Steve
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Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
The Sequoia also provides top-tether attach-points for all rear seat positions. The curious part is that that for each rear seating position, the top-tether is mounted to the bottom back of the seat, except for the middle left seat, the attachment point is on the floor, which is a little harder to access. Although this is not a big issue, it would be more convenient to have it installed on the seat bottom.
Note: When using the LATCH system, you do not need to use the seat belts to secure the car seat. When using LATCH and the top-tether, the car seat is very secure and does not budge.
If you are looking for new car seats, I highly recommend the Fisher Price SEII.
I'll give ya'll a real world example of finding the right dealership. My dad lives in Northern CA and has a Toyota store 2 miles from his house. He can't stand them. They are "old school" in the worst way. It is so bad, for his last car, he flew to VA to buy one from me and drove it 2800 miles home rather than deal with their garbage.
He was in a town 45 miles from his house recently and stopped by their Toyota store. He ran into some very friendly and honorable people. He spent a fair amount of time talking to them. They provided him with some information that he called me to confirm. They were 100% honest with him. He paid $500 over invoice for a 2001 Camry. He could have beat them down for another few hundred bucks but didn't bother. He was just so happy to find an honest dealer that he was glad to let them make a few bucks. From start to finish, they didn't pressure him, nor lie to him.
It took some looking, but the good dealers do exist. By doing business with them, you reward good business practices and encourage a departure from the games that we all complain about.
However, my husband and I both noticed that the Sequoia seemed to "float" around at 70 mph (i.e. felt like it drifted a lot and you had to really stay on top of your steering). We have both driven a Ford Explorer (granted, a smaller vehicle) for years and never noticed this sensation with it. The wind, transfer truck drafts, etc. seem to have a very strong influence on the vehicle. Frankly, this feeling of drifting easily made the vehicle seem a little unsafe??? Has anyone else had this sensation?
Good luck. Hope you don't get the same cold shoulder and lack of response I have received for bringing up problem(s).
It's a shame that some who are obviously financially tied to Toyota have created an environment of so much biasness toward the positives of this vehicle and Toyota as a company, (and an obvious unwillingness to discuss the negatives) it has stifled the candid, open, and objective communication needed on this site.
One of my main interests in the LATCH or ISOFIX systems is whether or not the seat is easier to install. I feel that I am able to securely install my current car seats using the belts, but I dread ever having to take the car seats out and reinstalling them. It is definitely a pain putting them back in. Does the LATCH system make reinstallation painless or is it still a little bit of work? I have not yet seen a LATCH car seat in person, so I have never seen the actual locking mechanism.
Thanks in advance.
The LATCH buckles on the Fisher Price SEII look just like the buckle for the top-tether. Per a previous post, there are currently only two car seats that have LATCH attachments - both have a similar buckle system. The LATCH system also is supposed to support a "rigid" attachment system - which may allow faster installs. My guess is that these seats should be introduced sometime next year, when all baby car seats will require LATCH.
According to Edmunds, the Sequoia is "Structurally identical to the Tundra from the front doors forward." Although the Tundra did pretty well in the IIHS test, it didn't fair so well in the NHTSA tests (3 stars frontal ratings on both sides).
Anyone have thoughts about how this would apply to the Sequoia?
Thanks in advance.
The way Toyota Motors handle this is that they allow dealer allocations to pretty well dry up (allocate far fewer cars) while they start the build process of the new models, making things slim pickings for a few weeks while new cars are coming. I think that it really is a comfort level issue for you about the timing. If this is a gift, you don't want to be caught with no present at the birthday time, so acting in advance to gather information and make good decisions is the right thing for you to do based on your criteria.
Afire
Watch out for the supply and demand factor on the Sequoia right now. A buyer stating that this is a 2001 and will be an old unit in a month or so may be correct as long as no one else is wanting to buy the vehicle you are wanting. The dealer needs to look at the Sequoia right now as I only have "X" many left and the 2002 will not be out until "X" and I do not need to "give away" the last few because no other dealers will have any in a couple of weeks and then mine will demand a premium.
We are famous for having Sequoia and Crusier invoice sales from time to time that people from different regions fly in and drive away in with no strings attached but if the regulars on this board will tell you we have not done that in the past couple of months and I do not expect any changes in our pricing until the 2002 arrive. You probably will not see invoice on a Sequoia for a while until the 2002 are flowing and dealers are confident that they can sell one at a smaller profit level and still have 20 more on the lot.
As a last thought that may make you feel better! I know that there are a lot of dealers like myself that look at profit as profit and it is hard to tell someone that I am not interested in someone's business because of a few dollars. When you are ready go down or call your local dealer and tell them you are interested in "X" at "X" over invoice and start enjoying your Sequoia. It really can be that easy. Honesty and understanding from a buyer will get far better results from me then someone acting like a fool.