I have no idea what it is, but many of our vehicles do it. Last week, we pulled a 4Runner into the showroom and it hummed for about 15 minutes. I searched for the source and it seemed to be coming from the charcoal canister. Don't ask me why, but it did. I've heard this before and it seems to be more prevalent in hot weather.
I posted this a ways back but got no response. Just wanted to try again to see if anyone has an educated opinion on this:
According to Edmunds, the Sequoia is "Structurally identical to the Tundra from the front doors forward." Although the Tundra did pretty well in the IIHS test, it didn't fair so well in the NHTSA tests (3 stars frontal ratings on both sides).
Anyone have thoughts about how this would apply to the Sequoia?
that it would do worse. If it structurally identical to the Tundra and weighing approximately 750# more (4wd Sr5), the weight would make all the difference.
I too had the humming sound coming from the rear of the vehicle for about 15 minutes after it was parked. I opened the gas cover and unsealed the gas cap and Bingo! it let off pressure and the humming stopped. I have done this on three different occasions and it works every time. Could this be the same humming sound some of you are hearing?
I've got one of the "tickers"....in my drive to appointments yesterday, i noticed that the ticking went away when i played a cd! ticking only seems to come on when am or fm is on, not tape or cd...leads me to believe that it's a wiring/grounding/antenna problem? i wonder if ticking will permanently go away if i replace the antenna...
I noticed that the cover that snaps over the floor attachment point of the driver's seatbelt had come loose the day after I took delivery of my SEQ. I put it back in place, but it came off again a week later. I had never associated it with adjusting the seat, but that could be the case.
The barbed tabs that snap around the metal piece at the end of the belt did not seem to be damaged, but it also did not appear to be a very secure attachment. I've been tempted to fuss about it, but thought I would wait and see how big (or frequent) a problem it becomes.
Yes, same here, I'm checking out whether it has something to do with how it gets put on. I don't really want these mechanics messing with the plastic coveres if I can avoid it.
I've been gone for a few weeks, and whoosh! Tons of items pile up. So hear goes:
1. In 3032, vondrlm1 mentioned that he pulled the female sleeves out of his trailer wiring harness connector. Well, guess what I had replaced at the dealer today. Yup, same problem. Cheezy connector if you ask me. I asked for the old part (to make a reliable spare), but the dealer said they had to send it back to the factory to get warranty credit.
2. In 3038, minuteman26 mentioned a couple of things.
First, that the new SR5 4x4 caster alignment specs improved the highway ride, and I want to concur. The vehicle was unstable at 70 (and really pulled with the wind) prior to realignment to the new specs, and now is solid as a rock.
Second, he indicated that he couldn't find any touchup paint for his bumper. Most SR5's (except black and ??) have "Warm Silver" bumpers and trim, and the paint code for that color is UCAD7 (PN 00258-UCAD7 for a 14 ml tube). It took me quite a while to find that -- the paint books weren't up to date, and we had to look under a Sienna. I tried it and it's pretty close.
3. Thanks Cliffy -- I never looked at my spare. I just assumed it was steel, but it is alloy, like the others.
4. My gas mileage on long trips jumped abruptly from 15-16 mpg to 17-18 mpg a few months ago (all in 4WD mode). Good news, but WHY? Possibilities:
-- The vehicle is broken in now. -- I switched to synthetic oil. -- Summer gas gives better mileage (no ethanol) -- I run the tires at 35 psi instead of 32. -- All of the above ?? Any opinions??
5. Cliffy -- Can one "extend" an extended warranty by paying the difference (i.e., from 6yr/60K to 6yr/100K)? I am putting on miles much faster than I thought I would! Boy is this thing fun...
6. I am thinking of switching to load range C tires when the Bridgestones die. My current pick would be Michelin A/T LT275/75R16's. Does anyone know (or would like to speculate) whether the 275/75 would rub either the wheel well or the mud flaps, and would they fit the spare well? My backoff size would be 265/75's.
My physics may be a bit rusty so if anyone wants to add to this, please do so. I formulate the following:
p=m*v where p=momentum m=mass v=velocity
Assume skimmel is correct when stating that the Tundra and Sequoia are structurally identical from the front doors forward. Therefore, with an increase in mass, additional momentum would cause additional or more damage. Is there something I'm or you're missing?
Does anyone have the link to the site here that covers the Sequoia problems. There was a separate site I cant find now.
Really need to get answer to piston slap problem. Friend has Sequoia and we read the oil burning problem and piston slap of the female owner on the site above and need to find out how problem was solved short of new pistions/re boaring cyclinders.
OK, nevermind, the search feature is back on line here. I have found a couple areas where the info might be. If anyone knows anything about this tolerance issue and how it was resolved please write in.
The little plastic covers over the front driver AND passenger seat rails of my Sequoia (at the point where the seat rail attaches to the floor) have been popping off repeatedly almost since it was new. If I barely even bump the driver's side cover it comes off. I think it is badly designed: nothing seems to be broken. Annoying.
I live in Palm Harbor and am on the verge of sending out bids via email for a sequoia. Could you tell me who you dealt with at Clearwater toyota and what your experience was like? What "fees" did they charge you? Did you order or take a car on the lot? Did you have to pay for the Toyoguard package? Could you send me your email? Mine is thompsbonedoc@yahoo.com Thanks in advance David
As for your MPG #4 you are right about all of the above you can make a huge difference if you keep an eye on you instant MPG setting of your overhead console. You can extend the warranty at any time but it will need to be inspected by the dealership. The 100k warranty should be 8yrs so if you get 6 they will be shorting you.
Thanks, chptoyota. The inspection should be no problem, and is a double edge sword, since if anything is wrong, the vehicle is still well under the standard 3yr/36k warranty.
I generally don't get extended warranties, but since this is the Sequoia's first year, it is made in the USA, and the warranty includes off-road coverage (including towing), it seemed like a sensible thing to do. One breakdown behind Elephant Hill near Moab, and the towing fee of $1,500 + miles pays for the warranty several times over.
Not that I want or would encourage anything like that to happen -- I am generally very careful, and am not even sure the Sequoia would fit the narrow "slot" on the way in from Elephant Hill, but all it takes is one engineering underestimate or manufacturing cost reduction (like the plug on the trailer wiring harness) ...
As for whether it is 8 years or 6 years, at the rate I am burning miles (12k in 6 months), it won't matter! Maybe the winter will be less.
I don't have the trip computer, so I have to do mileage on a tank-by-tank basis, and on long trips that works just fine. What the trip computer would tell you (and would be very interesting) is the difference in mileage between 65 and 75, and between a 20 mph headwind and 20 mph tailwind.
Interesting to see its happening to someone else. If its not happening to everyone is it possible ordering another one would give a plastic tab with a tighter fit. Alternatively, one could just wrap a piece of tape around the tab.
Thanks to all who commented on the vibration. I could live with the problem if it is only a noise problem. But I am talking some serious destuctive interference as the wind rushes into the car and causes it to vibrate. I can never remember this happening before in any car that I have owned. Has anybody tried opening a rear passenger window and seen the effect,not just a noise but a serious vibration.
mine has the same problem. The seat rail cover and the seat belt cover pop off rather easily. so far this is the worst thing I have found so that is not too bad. The only other annoying thing is when I accidently go off the curb out of a driveway and the VSC kicks in.
Agski: The Vibration that you experienced is inevitable in any car under the right condition. As only one window is open, a resonant chamber is created. At the right speed and window's opening size, you'll get the vibration. It's a natural phenomenon. My Volvo S70 does that easily when only one front or rear window is open. That's why I prefer to use the AC so that I can enjoy listening to the radio.
Perhaps the Sequoia's cavernous interior makes an excellent resonant chamber for your driving condition.
Crack open another window and the problem will go away. It's really simple.
Is it my imagination, or does my Seq go into and out of 4WD faster now that it is a few months old and has been switched dozens of times? (Doesn't seem to blink for ages like it did when it was new.)
Or, have I just figured out how to do it more efficiently without realizing I've adapted to the machine?
The frequency of this resonance is usually very low at 1-5 hertz and the energy is big due to volume and wind velocity so you can very easily vibrate the whole truck. Same as the low frequency beat of passing military helicopters that are able to shake my whole house.
Brill, maybe you meant the Tundrasolutions.com site. It has both owner's forum and technical sections there for both Tundra and Sequoia.
Some of the alleged piston slap and ticking problems were "solved" by insulating or padding some fuel injection harness or something like that. But check the Tundrasolutions.com for yourself to find more definitive information.
I feel vindicated that my AC actually has a problem. Upon being told by the dealer service dept. that my AC was working normally, I requested to compare my AC with a brandnew Sequoia on the dealer's lot. Well, my AC was not able to go lower than 57.9 deg., while the new Seq. was blowing out COLD air at 43.9 deg. in no time. The outside temperature was 86 deg. and the ACs were put on reciculation.
It's terrible that the service department was denying that the problem exists. As a result, I'm without wheels for a third day.
This question has been asked before, but I don't think that it has been answered completely. What changes are to be made to the 2002 Sequoia including colors (some are to be added and some deleted)and, which colors will be available on the Limited? Also, I understand changes are in order for the radio antennae, taillights, and possible other changes. When will the car be available to be ordered? Any price increase? Any chance they will do away with the faux metal dash trim on the Limited and have wood trim added as an option since the car is, after all, named after a tree? Any information about any changes would be appreciated.
Also to OBYONE #3280, it is a little simplistic to say that the Sequoia will do worse in a crash test just because it is heavier than the Tundra. You are not taking into account the possibility that the overall vehicle is stronger or stiffer due to the increased strength of the larger body/box behind the front doors compared to the Tundra. I don't know that this is actually the case, but you can't just look at weight alone. In many ways, this is a different vehicle.
Given the parameters, I simply answered the question. You may have a point that the overall body and frame of the Sequoia is stronger, however, that was not part of the parameters given.
The duct temperature is determined by the ambient temperature. The ambient is outside for fresh air mode and inside for recirc, of course.
A properly charged and performing A/C should have duct temps between approximately 40degF and 60degF with ambients of about 70deg and 85 deg respectively.
I have noticed after my A/C gets cold it has a duct temp of just over 40, so you should expect the same.
Suggestions: You might run is Auto and not to see if there is a thermostat problem.
Did you check the sight glass?? After the A/C runs for 10 mins or so, there should be no bubbles or foam it should be clear. When you turn off the A/C it might foam a little and then get clear. This would indicate a perfectly charged system. If the sight glass stays clear, it might be overcharged.
They are probably looking at guage pressures and seeing them in spec, so the next step would be to look at therostat calibration in the cabin, there may be a sensor problem, etc. Also the hot/cold temp valve may be bad.
It doesn't sound like you service dept did a complete troubleshooting job, you might go somewhere else.
Thanks for your input. My AC system was flushed and checked for leak but nothing abnormal was found by the service department. I was told the problem was rectified. However, the truth is that the air temperature at its coldest is about 58 deg. when outside temperature is between 83-90 deg. It just doesn't get colder than that unless the outside air is in the low 70s. Even when the outside air is cool, the AC cannot get below 48 deg.
I'm taking this matter directly to Toyota next, as the dealer and their managers do not seem able to solve the AC problem. It's disappointing that the truck only is four months old and has about 1700 miles and already has problems that can's seem to be fixable by the service dept.
I don't know if they plan to change it for sure or not. A salesman that I talked to several weeks ago told me that it was supposed to change because it went up too high and people were having to lower it to pull into their garages.
Then again, another salesman told me today that I could not order a 2002 until Sept/Oct. while a different dealer told me I could order one now, but he did not have a whole lot of details on options,colors, changes, etc.
I agree with dog71. Physics indicates that the Sequoia would fair much better than the Tundra in any standard crash test. Take, for example, the ford expedition and the ford f150. while the f150 stinks in the crash test, the expedition earned a 5-star rating. the SUV part of the truck (the 'rearward cab') adds strength to the overall vehicle.
Most of the time, upon starting up the car, my AC in Auto mode usually would slowly start up. The fan would gradually ramp up to maximum speed. However, once in a blue moon, it would start up at max. fan speed. Has anyone experienced such inconsistency? Thanks.
I just checked and the Toyota web site has been updated with the 2002 models. It is interesting viewing based on some of the comments over the past few months. For example, Thunder Grey still seems to be an option even though multiple people said it would be replaced by a different darker grey.
Does anyone know of or has anyone exceeded the recommended towing limits of the Sequoia w/4wd? I am looking at a travel trailer that is 6360lbs dry weight, the 4wd is rated at 6300lbs. What are the repercussions for exceeding. I figure the total weight will be closer to 7K lbs, which exceeds even the 2wd rating @6800 lbs.
I was just told by the technician that worked on my AC that the compressor and heat exchange coil for the Sequoia is too small for the Seq. and it is not abnormal for the AC to underperform. He claimed that many Seq. that he has seen operate poorly like mine. However, they operating within the specified range, and, therefore, is acceptable. Well, my question is then why on max cooling mode for an hour, my AC air would not get lower than 58 deg.
The technician never was able to explain why a new Seq. at the dealer that I've tested was able to put out 43.9 deg. while mine was only able to put out 58 deg. under the same condition.
If anyone actually takes accurate temperature readings of their AC, please let me know what your readings are for max cooling mode and outside temperature and humidity.
If the Technician was truthful about the poor performance of the AC on Sequoias, I think that potential buyers of the Sequoia should consider very carefully about this AC weakness before buying one.
Does anyone know of or has anyone exceeded the recommended towing limits of the Sequoia w/4wd? I am looking at a travel trailer that is 6360lbs dry weight, the 4wd is rated at 6300lbs. What are the repercussions for exceeding. I figure the total weight will be closer to 7K lbs, which exceeds even the 2wd rating @6800 lbs.
There was a recent article (cant remember the name of the mag) that involved taking several SUV's out in Death Valley. The Sequoia did middle of the pack in cooling under extreme conditions as I remember. You might take a look at the article closer to see what the specific opinion about the Sequoias cooling ability was.
There isnt really a good reason why you should not be able to get that output colder. Even converted freon systems do better.
It has been both extremely hot and humid in Houston Texas this summer and our BLACK Sequoia Limited cools off wonderfully, even after being parked outside in the afternoon sun. No complaints here on AC performance.
If your anchor is ever stuck, DON'T try to pull it free with the boat if you tie the line to a chair you are sitting in. I learned this the hard way last week and am just now getting back to work. I will be on crutches for 4 to 6 weeks as a result.
I don't have valid temp measurements, but I am always warm, even when most women are reaching for jackets. We have been over 100 degrees > 20 days in Austin and my Sequoia has never failed to keep me cool. I generally set the temp at 74 and have the fan at 1 or 2 bars, depending on the sun. In fact, this weekend my husband set the temp at 73 - I had to shut off my vents to stay comfortable and the outside temp was over 100! Get a new service tech or call Toyota.
Yep, I have also had plastic trim pieces for the driver's seat and seat belt pop off. I had both replaced with new ones at the dealer under warranty. I also had some large plastic piece pop off of the middle row seat and can't figure out where it goes. The service manage at my dealer claims that he has seen plastic trim pieces pop off regularly from 4Runners also but I would disagree. I never had one issue like this with my 4Runner. That thing was built like a tank. I think the difference in quality between the 4Runner and Sequoia is where they are manufactured. 4Runners are built in Japan and Sequoias in the US. Toyota really needs to elevate the quality in their US factories.
Comments
According to Edmunds, the Sequoia is "Structurally identical to the Tundra from the front doors forward." Although the Tundra did pretty well in the IIHS test, it didn't fair so well in the NHTSA tests (3 stars frontal ratings on both sides).
Anyone have thoughts about how this would apply to the Sequoia?
Thanks in advance.
I've got one of the "tickers"....in my drive to appointments yesterday, i noticed that the ticking went away when i played a cd! ticking only seems to come on when am or fm is on, not tape or cd...leads me to believe that it's a wiring/grounding/antenna problem? i wonder if ticking will permanently go away if i replace the antenna...
The barbed tabs that snap around the metal piece at the end of the belt did not seem to be damaged, but it also did not appear to be a very secure attachment. I've been tempted to fuss about it, but thought I would wait and see how big (or frequent) a problem it becomes.
1. In 3032, vondrlm1 mentioned that he pulled the female sleeves out of his trailer wiring harness connector. Well, guess what I had replaced at the dealer today. Yup, same problem. Cheezy connector if you ask me. I asked for the old part (to make a reliable spare), but the dealer said they had to send it back to the factory to get warranty credit.
2. In 3038, minuteman26 mentioned a couple of things.
First, that the new SR5 4x4 caster alignment specs improved the highway ride, and I want to concur. The vehicle was unstable at 70 (and really pulled with the wind) prior to realignment to the new specs, and now is solid as a rock.
Second, he indicated that he couldn't find any touchup paint for his bumper. Most SR5's (except black and ??) have "Warm Silver" bumpers and trim, and the paint code for that color is UCAD7 (PN 00258-UCAD7 for a 14 ml tube). It took me quite a while to find that -- the paint books weren't up to date, and we had to look under a Sienna. I tried it and it's pretty close.
3. Thanks Cliffy -- I never looked at my spare. I just assumed it was steel, but it is alloy, like the others.
4. My gas mileage on long trips jumped abruptly from 15-16 mpg to 17-18 mpg a few months ago (all in 4WD mode). Good news, but WHY? Possibilities:
-- The vehicle is broken in now.
-- I switched to synthetic oil.
-- Summer gas gives better mileage (no ethanol)
-- I run the tires at 35 psi instead of 32.
-- All of the above ?? Any opinions??
5. Cliffy -- Can one "extend" an extended warranty by paying the difference (i.e., from 6yr/60K to 6yr/100K)? I am putting on miles much faster than I thought I would! Boy is this thing fun...
6. I am thinking of switching to load range C tires when the Bridgestones die. My current pick would be Michelin A/T LT275/75R16's. Does anyone know (or would like to speculate) whether the 275/75 would rub either the wheel well or the mud flaps, and would they fit the spare well? My backoff size would be 265/75's.
Is there any reason to believe that the difference in the frame of the Sequoia would improve the crash test results?
My physics may be a bit rusty so if anyone wants to add to this, please do so. I formulate the following:
p=m*v where
p=momentum
m=mass
v=velocity
Assume skimmel is correct when stating that the Tundra and Sequoia are structurally identical from the front doors forward. Therefore, with an increase in mass, additional momentum would cause additional or more damage. Is there something I'm or you're missing?
Really need to get answer to piston slap problem. Friend has Sequoia and we read the oil burning problem and piston slap of the female owner on the site above and need to find out how problem was solved short of new pistions/re boaring cyclinders.
Thanks in advance
David
I generally don't get extended warranties, but since this is the Sequoia's first year, it is made in the USA, and the warranty includes off-road coverage (including towing), it seemed like a sensible thing to do. One breakdown behind Elephant Hill near Moab, and the towing fee of $1,500 + miles pays for the warranty several times over.
Not that I want or would encourage anything like that to happen -- I am generally very careful, and am not even sure the Sequoia would fit the narrow "slot" on the way in from Elephant Hill, but all it takes is one engineering underestimate or manufacturing cost reduction (like the plug on the trailer wiring harness) ...
As for whether it is 8 years or 6 years, at the rate I am burning miles (12k in 6 months), it won't matter! Maybe the winter will be less.
I don't have the trip computer, so I have to do mileage on a tank-by-tank basis, and on long trips that works just fine. What the trip computer would tell you (and would be very interesting) is the difference in mileage between 65 and 75, and between a 20 mph headwind and 20 mph tailwind.
Perhaps the Sequoia's cavernous interior makes an excellent resonant chamber for your driving condition.
Crack open another window and the problem will go away. It's really simple.
Or, have I just figured out how to do it more efficiently without realizing I've adapted to the machine?
Some of the alleged piston slap and ticking problems were "solved" by insulating or padding some fuel injection harness or something like that. But check the Tundrasolutions.com for yourself to find more definitive information.
It's terrible that the service department was denying that the problem exists. As a result, I'm without wheels for a third day.
Also to OBYONE #3280, it is a little simplistic to say that the Sequoia will do worse in a crash test just because it is heavier than the Tundra. You are not taking into account the possibility that the overall vehicle is stronger or stiffer due to the increased strength of the larger body/box behind the front doors compared to the Tundra. I don't know that this is actually the case, but you can't just look at weight alone. In many ways, this is a different vehicle.
That would make my day. I'd snap mine off and ask for a whip replacement.
A properly charged and performing A/C should have duct temps between approximately 40degF and 60degF with ambients of about 70deg and 85 deg respectively.
I have noticed after my A/C gets cold it has a duct temp of just over 40, so you should expect the same.
Suggestions: You might run is Auto and not to see if there is a thermostat problem.
Did you check the sight glass?? After the A/C runs for 10 mins or so, there should be no bubbles or foam it should be clear. When you turn off the A/C it might foam a little and then get clear. This would indicate a perfectly charged system. If the sight glass stays clear, it might be overcharged.
They are probably looking at guage pressures and seeing them in spec, so the next step would be to look at therostat calibration in the cabin, there may be a sensor problem, etc. Also the hot/cold temp valve may be bad.
It doesn't sound like you service dept did a complete troubleshooting job, you might go somewhere else.
Good Luck
I'm taking this matter directly to Toyota next, as the dealer and their managers do not seem able to solve the AC problem. It's disappointing that the truck only is four months old and has about 1700 miles and already has problems that can's seem to be fixable by the service dept.
Then again, another salesman told me today that I could not order a 2002 until Sept/Oct. while a different dealer told me I could order one now, but he did not have a whole lot of details on options,colors, changes, etc.
Somebody help me!
The technician never was able to explain why a new Seq. at the dealer that I've tested was able to put out 43.9 deg. while mine was only able to put out 58 deg. under the same condition.
If anyone actually takes accurate temperature readings of their AC, please let me know what your readings are for max cooling mode and outside temperature and humidity.
If the Technician was truthful about the poor performance of the AC on Sequoias, I think that potential buyers of the Sequoia should consider very carefully about this AC weakness before buying one.
There isnt really a good reason why you should not be able to get that output colder. Even converted freon systems do better.
Good luck
Did I miss anything while I was out?
I once had a skipper yell at me during a sailboat race, "Baldwin! Ya keep standin' there you're gonna be singin' soprano!"
I had straddled myself over the jib sheet during a manouver. Fortunately I'm still singing base.
Bringing it into the dealer to fix.
NL