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Dodge Ram Idle and Stalling Problems

hodgepodge1hodgepodge1 Posts: 1
edited September 2018 in Dodge
I was driving my truck today and suddenly the engine died. It was as if I had turned off the key. There was no indication there was anything wrong prior to this.

I checked the fuel pump relays and fuses for the ECM. It just cranks without starting.

Does anyone have any ideas?

See also: (Video, 2:31) DIY Dodge Ram Stalling Fix


  • ucanfarmucanfarm Posts: 33
    Do you have a bleeder port for your fuel system? I would suggest checking to see if you have excess air in your fuel system.
  • gdog6gdog6 Posts: 17
    I'm suprised :surprise: cummins diesels last forever.
    How many miles does it have on it.

    considering what u said Id say it has something to due
    with fuel pump or line
  • dmab65dmab65 Posts: 5
    Hi, I have a 98 ram 1500 5.2 4x4 and it was running great and then it just died almost as if I ran out of gas which of course I did not. I tried to crank it over but it wouldn't start. It sounds like its getting spark. Any ideas???
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    First, try to determine if you are getting spark to all plugs, and/or fuel to the cylinders.

  • dmab65dmab65 Posts: 5
    I'm getting spark but no fuel. I can hear the fuel pump humming when I turn the key in the ignition. I'm thinking maybe its a clogged fuel filter??? However, I have no clue where that is located
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I can't remember exactly what year, but I'm quite sure by '98 model year the fuel filter and pressure regulator (fuel pump module) was placed in the fuel tank. If you're absolutely sure the pump is trying to operate, the tank will have to come down.

    I would check for a failed Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay or an ASD open fuse (either 20 or 30 ampere) in the Power Distribution Center (PDC), first. Check the PDC cover for location of the fuse and relay. If you cannot locate a problem there, I would recommend performing the fuel pressure test first.

    NOTE: If the engine has been shut down for some time, fuel pressure in the fuel rails may be diminshed and the test will be inconclusive. Then the fuel injectors should be checked using Noid lamps.

    1. With the engine off and the ignition key removed, disconnect a connector from any fuel injector.

    If DC current is maintained too long it will overheat and burn out the injector coil.

    2.Using two jumper wires and the vehicle battery, energize the fuel injector for no more than a few seconds.

    Fuel may be under extreme pressure. Wear safety glasses and be prepared to absorb fuel with a large rag.

    3. Locate the Fuel Quick-Connect on the fuel rail.

    NOTE: On Dodge trucks the quick-connect is usually found on the fuel rail on one bank of the engine. The other bank will have a fuel pressure test port that includes a small metal cap. Do not use the pressure test port to relief pressure.

    4.Disconnect the fuel line quick-connect. If fuel is discharged then the fuel rails are receiving pressure. If you've got fuel pressure then you've probably lost electrical power to the fuel injectors. Check for a failed Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay or an open fuse (either 20 or 30 ampere) in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Check the PDC cover for location of the fuse and relay.

    If that's okay you might have loose connection somewhere in the harness or a failed Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

    Good luck & Best regards,
  • ram_royram_roy Posts: 1
    check your carbon can, and make sure your gas tank vent is not clogged
  • dmab65dmab65 Posts: 5

    Well we lifted the bed up on the truck and replaced the fuel pump. My only question now is that the pump makes a constant humming noise which in my opinion is really annoying....I wasn't sure if this was normal or not?????

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Hi Donna,

    In-tank fuel pumps are quite noisy and when you're very near the pump (especially if you still have the box lifted) it may sound unusually loud to you. The test is can you hear it inside the cab? You shouldn't.

    By the way, if you've lifted the box I'm assuming you removed the box mounting bolts. Please be aware that on Dodge trucks the box mounting bolts are a one-time tighten only. If you try to reuse the bolts they will loosen and the box will move around on you. New bolts are required when ever the torque has been reduced (loosed) on the bolt.

    Best regards,
  • dmab65dmab65 Posts: 5
  • togomenutogomenu Posts: 4
  • togomenutogomenu Posts: 4
    I am trying to fix a 2001 Dodge RAM quad cab 4x v8 5.9 that is killing when it idles. I think I need a piece for the accelerator or possible a cauberator piece. Does anyone here know what that part would be called? I looked up parts for the truck and couldn't come up with anything except an "idle control valve." Thanks!
  • jnunleyjnunley Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Quadcab with 4.7 engine and about 106K miles. Lately, when I start the engine it surges, (i.e. revs to about 1500 RPM then idles back to about 700 RPM). It will fluctuate back and forth for a bit before idle finally smooths out. Is this a sensor problem? Or a dirty throttle body?

    I was finally able to get a Haynes manual. In the tune-up section, it states in several places not to clean throttle body with carburator cleaner.

    I'd appreciate any suggestions.
  • jnunleyjnunley Posts: 4
    Idle Air Controller was dirty. I removed it and cleaned it good.
  • i have a 1996 dodge Ram with the 5.9 and it will fluctuate between like 450 RPMs and 700 RPMs and when im in reverse if i dont keep my foot on the gas every once in a while it dies. Im not sure how to fix it. another problem is when im sitting at an idle it feels like its missing horribly, and i changed the plugs wires cap and rotor but the truck has 187000 miles on it so i dont know if its the timing chain is stretched and thats causing it or what it is so if you have any ideas let me know. thanx
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I don't believe a stretched timing chain could cause this problem.

    My first suggestion would be to thoroughly clean the throttlebody, check for a clogged PCV valve, and also check for brittle and cracked vacuum hoses.

  • i have a 2003 3500 and some times it will not idle and i noticed that volt meter read low after driving a few miles it will start idling ok and volt meter reads ok
  • when i start it up sometimes it will idle fine sometimes it will not ;; had battery check also had alternator checked
  • I have a 2000 Ram 1500 318 automatic. Will loose power and misfire really bad. Hooked up to hand scanner pending codes were multiple misfires on cylinder 1 and 3 and lean on bank one. Towed to shop and ran fine when got there. This has happened about four times. No vacumm leak at intake. All new plugs, wires, cap and button. ECM okay. Good fuel rail pressure. Dropped tank and check fuel filter and pump.
  • jon38jon38 Posts: 2
    The engine starts ok, but after about 2 minutes it misfires/no power for about 1 minute (occasionally stalls), then it settles down and runs ok. This happens with the engine either hot or cold, after every start unless it is off for only a few minutes. The scanner says it misfired on cylinders 4 and 8. Any advice appreciated - I was told to replace plugs/cables etc. but I'm not so sure. Thanks.

    ps. about a month ago, it would start real rough after a rain, but this seems to have disappeared? - not sure if this is related to the above problem.
  • Between 98 and 02 the cummins lift pump located in the side of the block was a horrible design. They changed it from a mechanical pump that was run off the cam shaft to an electric pump mounted roughly in the same location (the drivers side of the block, behind the injection pump.) You can go to the dealer and get a retrofit kit that moves the pump into the tank. You can also get it from Cummins for a little less money. It's somewhat time consuming and there is an electrical harness that must be installed with the kit.
  • I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 (4.7) v-8 quad cab. The rpms idle erractically especiallly at stop lights. While driving, the truck is okay. At slow drives (2-10 M.P.H.) the truck may cut off. I been dealing with this problem for about 2 months before I finally decided to raise the hood as well as my sleeves. Now what I did was 1.Disconnect air filter and check the condition. 2. Disconnect Air Resonator box on top and remove( make sure to disconnect air charge sensor wire and hose on the other side) 3.Inside the AIR RESONATOR BOX is an air charge sensor(blue color tip)check it for dust, apply light pressure and clean it with a clean rag. 4. Get a can of injection cleaner and lightly spray inside of throttle body around the plate/below the throttle body is a smile-like opening, get a flat head screwdriver and wrap it with a clean cloth and stick it in there and wipe inside of that compartment. 5. Start engine and slightly idle up 30 seconds). 6. Turn engine off and reconnect every thing back (Don't forget to reconnect air charge wire and hose). 7. The check engine light may come on , but don't be alarmed. That's just your air charge sensor adjusting. It will go out soon. Voila! this worked for me and hopefully for you also. Now my Ram is steady idled at about 600 rpms at stop lights,and it doesn't stall anymore. To make a long story short, just clean your throttle body and check your air charge sensor to start with. Good Luck.
  • I have 98 ram 1500 4x4 5.9L.
    it was running after a short stop,i got 300 feet then loss power it would idle fine but even in park could not get rpms over 2k & runs very rough when giving it gas.
    checked fuel pressure ok. any ideas what to do?
  • Had similar problem with '02 5.9L Durango. Problem was traced to a plugged fuel injector. I had used some contaminated gas. Dealer removed and cleaned injector and problem disappeared. I can't remember if it caused the check engine light to come on.
  • Thanks.
    The problem turn out to be the catalytic converter broke inside and blocked the exhaust.
  • I have an 00 5.9 with excatly the same problem--irritating. Would you let me know if you find the cure?
  • hey - I replaced plugs/cables etc., didn't help. I'm taking it in to the shop next week - I'll let you know.
  • OK, this just started. I went to my truck yesterday the battery was low, so it wouldn't turn over, just clicked. I put a charger on it for about an hour and then it started right up. The truck had been running great up until the dead battery. Now the truck starts right up and will idle for a while, drive it for about 3 miles, and stop and the engine just dies. It starts right up, but unless your foot is on the gas won't idle. Any ideas? Like I said this was all of the sudden, I wonder if the computer just needs to be reset so it can "learn" again. Thanks in advance!
  • qhutqhut Posts: 2
    My truck ran great w/ no issues til I parked and let it set for about 3 weeks. I drove about 4 miles and the motor cut off and lost all power as others have described, like turning off the key. The big difference is after letting the truck sit for 20min or so it will start right up clean and strong. Drive for another 3 or 4 miles and off it goes again. I can hear the fuel pump coming on and pressure up. The motor cranks strong but does not fire up. I thought the coil may have been the culprit but installed new coil and problem still exist. I filled the tank w/ fresh gas still no change. I live only 1.5 miles from work and can drive that far as if nothings wrong but if I go another 2 or 3 miles it will die this has been going on for about 3 weeks now and not excited about taking it to the dealer to diagnose. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  • Aug 16,2006 at 91,106 miles my dealer replaced the rear end in my 2002 Ram. Now at 106,685 miles and 13 months later, he is replacing it AGAIN. Anyone had this problem and any suggestions. This time it is to the tune of $992. The last one was covered under extended warranty. This one comes out of my pocket. Chrysler Service was extremely rude when we called to inquire about it. I asked for someone to contact over and above to inquire about my problems, the girl told such person. They say no, out of warranty, end of discussion. We have been Mopar FOREVER. This gives me a bad feeling. It makes me wonder how long the new rear end will last???? Help.....any suggestions would be appreciated!
    Dodge gal
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