Isuzu Rodeo

amigo_john

It's all going through the PCV valve and getting burned up. I suspect it would be broken down oil vapor getting through. That is probably why the synthetic doesn't disappear as fast as the dino oil (it doesn't vaporize as much). You are probably using ~60 gallons of gas every 1000 miles so burning 1 quart with that 60 gallons isn't going to change emissions very much. If it was going past the rings or valve guides you would be burning straight oil (not oil vapor) and you would get the blue smoke and poor emissions. In reality, the oil vapor getting into the cylinders probably acts as a top end lubricant, extending cylinder and ring life. Most everyone on this topic agrees that the 3.2 and 3.5 engines burn oil but last a long time (one reason that a diesel engine lasts so long is because the greasy diesel fuel lubricates the cylinder each time it is injected in). My only worry would be the oil thickening as the oil vapor is burned off. It's just like cooking a pot of soup: the longer you cook it with the top off the thicker the soup gets. Let it cook too long and you're left with a pot of useless goo. So keeping the oil topped off between changes would be an absolute necessity.

1badsidekick

Hi, I currently have a '98 Suzuki Sidekick Sport 4d 4x4, with 55k, and I'm considering trading it in for something else. The list of possibilities is beginning to stretch, and on it are (all '00 or '01 models) Mercury Moutaineer, Mitsubishi Montero Sport, Isuzu Rodeo, Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute, Jeep Cherokee and Liberty. I've driven a couple of Rodeos, but it was about a year and a half ago. The newest one I drove was an '01 with 5 speed, and I really liked it, except the clutch felt funny. I have a 5 speed now, and there are many times I wish I had an automatic, so that seems to be where I'm going. I was wondering if any of you current Rodeo owners could fill me in about problems, TSBs, and things to look for if I were to find one I liked. Consumer Reports does not rate the Rodeo very well, its actually under the "used cars to avoid" section. Any input is appreciated!

ryanendres

Very few problems have been noted on th 00-02 models. 98-99 the common problem is an ABS motor that runs non-stop even with the key out of the ignition. If your looking for TSB check out www.alldata.com

I own a 2000 Amigo (same as the Rodeo), and I have only had a popping sound come from the doors that was repaired under warrenty.
-Ryan

willie340

my neighbours next door own an odyssey 2000,when it's idling in the morning you can't here the motor at all, i mean you REALLY CAN'T HEAR IT.i've noticed it's the same with an accord,camry and corolla.on the other hand you can hear my 2002 rodeo halfway down the road.does someone have an explaintion for that?is this 3.2 normally a noisy motor? ibadsidekick,as far as cars to avoid,i have a 1988 shadow (listed as used cars to avoid)my daughter drives it.it has 412,566km on it and runs very good.it's depends on how you take care of your car.

paisan

The difference is that the Oddy and Accord have more padding under the hood, and they have car engines, not TRUCK engines. Also they have car trannies, whereas the Rodeo has a TRUCK tranny which is geared differently so you will hear it revving more.

Hope this helps.

-mike

amigo_john

Some of the noise is caused by the engine fan. Most cars have an electric one but the Rodeo has a belt driven one, which gives the whooshing sound when you let it idle. Most real trucks have 'em and they are noisy.

willie340

what difference is there between a car engine and a truck engine.an engine's an engine right.even with the hood up on the odyssey you can't hear it.auto makers should copy that engine.

paisan

Hmm well lets see. They already said the fan is always running on the TRUCK engine. 2nd a truck engine is setup in such a manner to be rugged and strong. Things like the motor mounts are stiffer in a truck engine. For instance check out a mitsubishi starion. It has a truck engine in it and is pretty loud at idle.

Basically if you put that Honduh engine in your rodeo it won't last very long, cause it will be overworked.

-mike

catam

Most car engines esp. newer ones are oversquare in design (ie. cylinder bore larger than stroke length), whereas true truck engines will be more square or undersquare.
The reason for the difference has to do with the whole HP vs. torque an engine produces.
In the extreme, nearly all diesel engines are undersquare, and we are all familiar with the noise levels produced by diesels.

I will also grant that many SUV engines out there are more "carlike" due to the use of them as family grocery getters instead of tow/haul vehicles.

marisuen

94 rodeo v6 4x4
wet plugs after 2 days or 25 starts. To date I have replaced:
fuel filter ($20), spark plug wires ($75), oxygen sensor ($300), fuel injectors x6 ($1100), spark plugs x 1 million.
All of these by an Isuzu dealer in the month of January alone(please add exhorbenant labor costs) and this dealer actually asked me not to bring it back as they have no clue. All fuel system componants are checking out good, ie :pump, pressure reg, mixture valve, etc.
The problem is most evident at a cold start without touching gas pedal....it floods to smell and plugs are wet x6.
The truck is currently at the other Isuzu dealer in town for perusal of current fuel and/or possible spark related problem (and to repair the radiator that "exploded" on the way there to drop off for fuel problem.)
I bought this truck on 01 sept. (5 months ago) The altenator and the head gasket were replaced, as well.
I am currently in a active search for a tall, steep cliff in the San Diego area.
MarisueN@aol.com

paisan

Hope you didn't pay much for it!

I don't understand how the plugs get wet though. That is weird!

-mike

amigo_john

I spotted a newer Odyssey in my son's school parking lot this morning. Tick Tick Tick Tick Tick Tick Tick.

gfields40

I have a 2001 Rodeo LS and am having a few problems that the dealer says are normal on Isuzus. This vehicle will not run without pinging on any gas except 93 octane. Also after coming to a stop and then starting off again you can feel a thump in the transmission or drive shaft. Have any of you other owners experienced these problems and if so any suggestions.

Boris2

Well, I think the dealer doesn't really know what the problem is and therefor suggests that you use high octane. I never had any problems on mid grade and haven't heard of anybody having to use high octane in Rodeo. I live in Colorado, so naturally 89 octane here would equal about 90-91 octane in other states that are lower, but still... The owners manual suggests mid grade so that's what it should be working fine with. As far as "thump" i did notice something that I can't really describe too good but it does sound like a "thump" when you come to complete stop and when starting off. It doesn't happen regulary, and doesn't seem to affect anything.

Re: Engine noisy... I too noticed the engine to be very noisy when I just start it in the morning. However, the most noise goes away when the truck warms up. I was told by the dealer that the noise is produced by "clutch fan." I have no clue why the clutch fan (assuming there is such a thing) needs to go off when it's freezing outside, but it seems to be the case.

ryanendres

I have both of the problems. There is a new ECU program that is suppose to fix the PING. It didn't in my case. I'm using 89 octane, and it keeps the PING away as long as a run a bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate every 3K (10 bucks at Target). Doing this the PING problem on my 2000 Amigo (3.2L) stay away when useing 89 octane. If I don't use the Chevron once every 3k the PING always comes back when using 89 octane.

The thump is not normal. Again I too have. Some folks report that their dealers will do the temp. fix which is to repack the slip joint in the drive shaft with new grease. The word is that it will keep the thump away for about 7k. I find that easing off the brake slow from a stop helps to lessen the thump feeling.

So if you have not tried techron yet run two tanks of gas in a row with it in and take your truck in and have the dealer repack the slip yolk.

-Ryan

amigo_john

I have the pinging too. I use STP total fuel system cleaner every 5000 miles or so. I also have the thump. Thanks for the dealer info on fixing both.

1badsidekick

Hi guys, I found a rodeo I like. Its a 2001 LS, Leather, moonroof, and 5 speed (interesting combination, didn't know they offered it like that). Anything I should look for when I look it over and drive it? Thanks!

willie340

what do you think of the kia sorento? would it be better than the rodeo.it has a nicer style and a more powerful engine.cheaper too!!!

paisan

I don't think so. I think the Sorento has a 190hp engine v. 205 in the Rodeo.

I love the Sorento but it all depends on what you are looking for.

Off-road the Rodeo is a better chassis.
More Power
Longer better reputation

Pluses for Sorento:
Available AWD + Low Range
Slightly cheaper
more kia dealers
slightly more refined

Big toss up, but either one would be an excellent choice IMHO.

-mike

willie340

what i meant was the sorento on paper has only 192hp/217ft.lbs...to rodeo's 205hp/214ft.lbs yet the kia is quicker off the line.i also believe kia and hyundai are sister companies.is this true?doesn't kia use hyundai engines in the cars?and can someone tell me why the rodeo has an electric fan and a clutch fan near the rad.?thanks

paisan

The engine in the Sorento is from the Sedona. Faster acceleration can be due to any # of factors (Ambient temp and humidity, gearing of tranny, etc)

The 4L30 tranny in the Rodeo has a very low 1st gear which could hurt off the line acceleration. Also I suspect weight of the rodeo chaissis might be higher.

The Clutch fan is the std. fan for the engine. The electric fan comes on when additional cooling is needed and should always be on when the A/C Compressor is on to suck cool air over the condenser unit.

-mike

sbcooke

What RPM is the torque rated at 217/214 on each? That is where your real acceleration power is going to come from. HP comes into play at the high end of the RPM band. They are probably quite close in power delivery with the Rodeo slightly better at highway speed.

1badsidekick

All things considered, I'd go with a Rodeo right now versus the Sorento. My reason? The war. If anything happens to South Korea, all Kia vehicles will become the equivalents of a Yugo. You wouldn't be able to get parts, your 100k warranty wouldn't be worth squat, and it would immediately drop to being worth nothing more than a yard ornament, you couldn't sell it or get anything for trade in. The Rodeo has a better warranty, still 10 years but goes 120k, and is Japanese, so you wouldn't have to worry about the rest. As far as Kia vs. Isuzu dealers here where I am, its the same distance to both: 1 hour. I love the Sorento, and you definetly get more for your money, but I wouldn't get one right now. Thats my personal opinion only. You can make your own decisions, I'm simply offering my 2 cents. Also, the base Sorento looks goofy. The base Rodeo is very sporty, and even the standard steel wheels are styled well enough to look like alloys. AND, the Rodeo comes in a 5 speed, all Sorentos are automatics.

stever

I've seen this argument a couple of times now, and I also see headlines about Japan warning N. Korea that Japan will attack if need be. link

If your theory comes true, then Japanese parts may be equally hard to come by.

Steve, Host

1badsidekick

Never thought about that. Of course, look at how many japanese vehicles are on the road compared to the korean ones. There aren't hardly any american made automobiles that are reliable enough for my taste, so if something happened to the japanese cars, I think we'd be up crap creek with no paddle. Lets hope none of this actually happens. I really like the Sorento myself, and after looking at it, I said "yep, that'd be the only NEW vehicle I'd ever get." However, this is the Rodeo forum. I looked at the '01 again today, still like it as much as before, just can't get a break in all this crappy weather to look it top to bottom and get it out on the road. I'll keep ya posted.

scottz1

Anyone else have issues with the key getting stuck in the ignition? It's been a bit difficult for months to turn the key back to the lock position (for removal). Now, I can only turn it back to just beyond accessory. The vehicle turns off, but the steering and transmission aren't locked and the key can't be removed. Just wondering what the heck it might cost to get this fixed. My Rodeo is about 6 months out of warranty.

stever

Usually this is just a once or twice occurrence and is remedied by "jiggling" the steering wheel. But in your case, it sounds more like a messed up lock cylinder or something.

Steve, Host

scottz1

Well, I just got the key out. Seems to be caused by a misplaced cable running to/from the steering column. I read about it in another forum. All that needs to be done is to reach under the dash and move the cable a bit so that it doesn't bind the ignition. The advice in the other forum advised removing the lower steering cover. Not necessary. Whew. I wonder if a repair shop would have told me this?? I doubt it.

paisan

The parts are probably more universal than you think on the Sorento. Just like you find a lot of Japanese parts in US vehicles, and visa versa.

The other thing is that the Rodeo warranty is now 7/75 not 10/120.

-mike

paisan

Also don't forget that you need to have the gear shifter fully into Park in order to remove the key. I find that my cell-phone and/or CB wire sometimes prevents the gear selector from going all the way into park. The car is clearly in park but the electronic connection isn't made thereby not allowing you to remove the key.

-mike

willie340

the warranty in canada on the rodeo is only 3years/60,000km.

1badsidekick

The warranty on the '01 Rodeo is still 10/120, transferrable. Only the '03's have dropped down to 7/75. I don't understand why they did that. Also, I read an article on the new Ascender, and it stated that the warranty for it was 10/120. Is that true? Or does anyone know? It's not important, the Ascender is too big and too pricey for me, but why offer a different warranty than the rest.

willie340: The US bumper to bumper warranty is 3 years/50,000 miles, the 10/120 I'm referring to is powertrain only. All the companies that offer the 10/100 or higher warranties are all only on the powertrain, but those are the most important parts anyway.

paisan

On all the 10/120s it is only transferrable to someone in your immediate household (ie: registered at the same address). On all the '03 model vehicles from isuzu they dropped the powertrain down to 7/75k miles, the Bumper to Bumper remains at 3/50K.

-mike

1badsidekick

Well, I'll just answer my own question. Just found where ALL '03 Isuzu's are 7/75. I guess it helps to look at their website! hahaha

paisan

No problemo. The thing about the Ascendor warranty is this... Chances are you'll need to use it. There are 400 Isuzu Dealers in the country and they are dropping like flies. On top of that they have zero experience working on the GM vehicle (what like 500 sold so far?) so you are gonna run into all kinds of problems getting it fixed. I'd spend a hair more $ and get the Chevy or GMC version of it if only for the dealer network on such a repair prone vehicle.

At least on Isuzu built products you know the dealers have been working on them for ~5-10years give or take a few minor changes over time, and they are far more reliable, so the chance that you'll need to visit one of the 400 dealers is less.

Just my opinion on the Ascendor warranty.

-mike

1badsidekick

Thanks for the input. I like the general look of the trailblazer/envoy (short wheelbase), but I know that they are problem prone. I also just posted in the Axiom forum, I'm considering it now as well. I'm disappointed in the fact that the 10/120 warranty isn't transferrable. Now its just like any other vehicle out there, with just a few more miles on the bumper to bumper. My suzuki had 3/36, and at 34k, I was out of the warranty by 3 months, and the rear end went out. I only log about 10k a year, but depending on how many miles the vehicle has on it when I get it. I still like the vehicles overall, but the clentcher to my wallet was the 10/120 warranty.

paisan

The advantage of the Isuzus is that they are above average reliability (replied in the other post) and with their poor re-sale you get them at a discount.

For instance a Trooper that stickered at $33K new in '02 is now selling for $20-22max, maybe even less than $20K and is comparable in size/features/reliability as say a $35-40K Toyota.

-mike

wlbrown9

Happened to be looking around today and a couple of dealers in Georgia still show quite a few Troopers in stock...new 2wd 2002 LS MSRP $31,300 advertised for $23,999. That would still have the 120/120000 powertrain. Also found a link that shows you could get 0% for 72 months (instead of the $4500 marketing support of course). So, if you qualify, you could drive one for a little over $400/month based on sales price of near invoice $29,000 2wd or $430/month based on $31,000 invoice for 4wd LS (assumption without adding in tax, title, tags, doc fee, so unless you have a trade with 2 grand or so, add that much to the calculations). Looking at the 4wd S model, it goes for about what the 2WD LS does, so you could go that way.

Re the warranty...I had a '95.5 Rodeo that bumper-bumper went to 60,000 miles...can'r remember if that was 60 months or 36 months. Traded it in on the '00 Trooper.

Boris2

I'm getting very close to my 30K mile service and have heard that synthetic oil is going to benefit the engine better than regular, especially after 30-50K miles. I've been getting different suggestions from different mechanics and thought that anybody might have an opinion on this matter.

armtdm

Can't vouch for your engine but son's has the 3.2 L V6 which I converted to synthetic at 57,000 miles when he purchased it. Been changing the oil (first one at 3000 miles) but every 7500 since then. Engine runs great, oil analysi has come back good. I have been running synthetic in everything for last 11 years so I have no issue with it. If you are committed to changing your oil every 3000 miles do not do it, a waste of money. Your engine will go just as long on 3000 miles changes with the cheapest dino out there. Only if you extend the drains should you consider synthetic IMO.

henryb2

On three occasions, the horn will sound on its own or will stick when the horn is honked once.
Of course the dealer could not recreate the problem and was not given any more attention.
I have had to replace the battery due the 'stuck horn'.
Me and my neighbors would greatly appreciate a solution to this problem.

sbcooke

Isopropol Alcolhol on the contacts? Maybe there is something causing them to stick? Of course I wouldn't know where to begin with taking off the steering wheel, etc.

Put in an after-markter horn and change the buttons or add a kill switch?

hopster1

I own a 99 Passport with 69,000 miles and wanted to know if anyone knows if there's a timing belt issue on this vehicle and how long can one last?

willie340

just got my 2002 rodeo back from the dealer. i brought it in for some problems.they didn't do anything.they said all those problems are common with this vehicle.uses too much oil...THEY SAID IZUSU CLAIMS 1L OF OIL EVERY 1800KM. the wipers are very very slow especially in the morning...THEY SAID THEY ARE ALL LIKE THAT,very noisy engine like ticking sounds...THEY CLAIM THE 3.2 'S ARE ALL LIKE THAT...the starter seems to go on forever...ONCE AGAIN THEY SAY IT'S TYPICAL FOR THAT VEHICLE.now do they not want to service izusu's,or they didn't make enough money when they sold it to me,or they think i'm an idiot.when i test drove the rodeo, the engine was very quiet,the wipers were fast and the starter didn't run on and on after the car was started..ANYBODY HAVE ANY THOUGHTS ON THIS???

paisan

1) Isuzu engines eat oil. 1Q/1000 miles is not uncommon nor harmful.

2) Slow wipers? Seems like a very subjective subject, slow to you make not be slow to me. I'd have to see them to see if they are actually slow or not.

3) Engine Noise: Isuzus make loud engine noises in the morning, not ticking per-say but fan noises. If you have ticking it is probably because you let your oil go low.

4) Starter? Doesn't seem right, but again I'd have to hear it to see what you mean by go on forever.

-mike

ryanendres

I'll back Paisan on this

1. Yes some do use oil, mine new in 2000 used over 0.5qt per 1000 miles, now at 33K I use 0.5 per 3k. So watch it now and it will go down.

2. Wippers slow? no clue

3. ticking, yes they are a little loud on cold start up. Also, if you hear a ticking kocking when accelerating you should try a higher octane gas.

4. Starter. New in 2002 when you turn the key it is like a button, Meaning it will run the starter for a certain length of time based on the temp (I think), BUT it is not like the 98-2001, which is, as long as you have the key turned it will crank the engine. I think BMW and some other high end cars have this too.

-Ryan

andy356

Greetings...

I have a '99 Rodeo LS. After about 2 years of ownership I began to have A/C problems. I have been back to the dealership 8 times to have repairs made. The problem is that the compressor cycles on and off at the wrong times, and the car never gets cool enough when the outside air is hot. I live in San Antonio, Texas. The last time I was at the dealership a guy from Isuzu worked on it... same problem. I have written to Isuzu and they want me to go back to the dealer.

What say you all? I wanted them to buy back the thing or give me a new one... they didn't like that idea.

Any and all help appreciated.

Andy Anderson
Unhappy Rodeo Owner

monarch2

I'm looking at a used '99 Rodeo with 91k miles. During the test drive, I felt a thump when it came to a complete stop (as discussed earlier on this board). It concerns me, but I like the way it drives.

I don't know anything about Isuzus and am wondering how long I could expect one to run before it begins having serious problems/needs serious work. Can anyone give me more info re: the Rodeo's longevity?

Phyllis

ryanendres

http://www.4x4wire.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=68;t=00- - 4959;p=1

The most mileage I have then on a 98 Rodeo is 208K, it sold on ebay a few months ago.

If you buy the 99, get all the normal stuff (flush all the fluids, new belts, filters and the such) done all at once and you will easily see 200k!
-Ryan

paisan

I had a '97 rodeo that lasted 120K miles with zero maintenance other than Gas and Oil changes (every 5-10K miles) a set of brake pads and a set of tires. I traded it in on my Trooper

-mike