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Isuzu Rodeo

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Comments

  • ryanendresryanendres Posts: 122
    The bumper is easy to get on and off. Takes about 15 mins. Make sure you didn't bend any brackets and the such. If your looking for a new bumper try the guys at www.stcharlesauto.com and used try www.car-parts.com

    -Ryan
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    When I replaced my Trooper's bumper, I needed to use a pipe on the end of my 3/8" ratchet to intitially break the bolts lose. I went and got breaker bar and larger sockets to complete the job. You may want to invest the $15 at sears if it seems like you can't get the bolts lose.
  • bama_lukebama_luke Posts: 27
    I installed a 12 disc cd changer last year and it's working great. I got the system (12 disk changer and dash unit with cassette) off Ebay for $180. Granted, the CD changer is a refurb, but that doesn't bother me. I couldn't find another deal to touch this anywhere.

    Luke
  • bama_lukebama_luke Posts: 27
    This message is primarily for you other procrastinators out there. If your gas mileage seems to have fallen off, check your air filter. I replaced mine last week before heading out of town for the weekend. The change in both mileage and power (maybe this part was just in my head) was dramatic. Granted, this was mostly highway mileage, but I added nearly 100 miles to a tank of gas. Now, back in the swing in town, I'm guessing the improvement on comparable driving miles is 50-60 miles per tank.

    I also try to add a bottle of Techron (or similar fuel system cleaner) to my tank after getting an oil change. The combination of the air filter (Fram) and the fuel system cleaner has made a noticeable difference.

    So, if you're like me and don't think about checking your air filter very often, you probably need to go ahead and check it and replace it.

    Luke
  • kramkram Posts: 1
    I purchased a new rodeo in 98 and had these repairs just after the warranty went out.
    1, Main bearing in transmission went out... $1500
    2. Clutch $800
    Priot to these repairs, I had a tire rotate that cost $298 because 4 lugnuts broke of the studs during a routine tire rotate. The tires needed replaced some 10,000 miles later, and Sam's Club and a Texaco Station said they would be glad to
    sell me tires but would not install them becarse isuzu products have "soft" studs and they would not be responsible
    for the repair. I then took the Rodeo to the dealership in Upper Marlboro where I purchased the Vehicle and they
    wanted $140 to install new tires and denied and problems with the studs. The problem is when a stud breaks of the
    rotors have to be removed to replace them. When I contacted isuzu head quarters they denied the problem. Four mounths ago the transfer case went out ($1500) and I traded it in on a Honda. The tradin was low because ot it's poor
    reputation. Honda's last year fof the Passport is 2002 because of all the problems and bad press.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Had no more problems, and in fact far less than the Escape, also a new vehicle. So the moral of the story? Don't buy the first year a vehicle is out. Plain and simple. Honda isn't dropping the passport because of poor quality (check CR, even they rate Isuzu just as high as Honda and Yoda for reliability) they are dropping it cause they are building the CAR based Pilot which fits the demographic of a Honda buyer better than a TRUCK based frame vehicle.

    -mike
  • drmperaltadrmperalta Posts: 58
    Well, no matter what people say that you don't have to warm up your car before driving off, I do now. Big big difference. I noticed less oil consumption, better mileage, and better power, smoother running engine, less noise, better ride too (can't explain it).

    Before, I used to drive off even if the temp gauge says it's not warm yet and the engine felt clumsy even after the engine warmed up later down the road.

    Next to buy, aftermarket remote starter. I gues Clifford is a good brand.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I can't get my temp guage to lift off of the "c" until I actually drive it. But I let it warm up for about 1 minute and then drive under 4K rpms until the needle rises off C

    -mike
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Posts: 107
    Of course it never hurts to have synthetic flowing through your engine on those cold mornings! I'm in Alabama and hate starting my car in the sorta-cold weather we have here. I can't imagine what damage is caused by starting and driving right away w/no warmup in places where it really gets cold!
  • drmperaltadrmperalta Posts: 58
    Paisan, I used to do what you mentioned but I noticed big improvement when warming to operating temp before moving off. I guess this particular engine ('99 Passport) does not run at optimum performance unless properly warmed. I read somewhere that various engine parts are made of different types of metal with there own different degrees of thermal expansions. Unless the engine is at operating temperature some of the parts may not have lined up properly that may lead to cracks (on rare instances). The pistons may not have expanded properly causing insufficient compression and high oil consumption.

    Just my 2 cents.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The 3.2 and the 3.5 are the same engines essentially the 3.5 is bored and stroked IIRC. I just can't get mine to warm up off the "C" until it moves, maybe it is my synthetic oil that causes it to not warm up quickly.

    -mike
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Seems to be common knowledge around tire shops and alignment shops but dealers deny there is a problem with the studs breaking off.

    I have had to replace a few on my 97 as well!!!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The problem is that most shops use an impact wrench w/o the proper torque stick. They should only be tightened to 75psi most places push them to well over 100psi. My buddy who has a montero has the same problem with his. He has had shops replace all the studs numerous times.

    -mike
  • dielectric7bbdielectric7bb Posts: 324
    it's just a sign that you've had a tire rotation/change at a bad shop that uses an impact wrench well past spec. Shops that are intelligent and know vehicles don't over tighten lugs and you will never have a problem. This is not just a problem with Isuzu's, but all makes and models. Stupid shops just overtighten because it's safer. They will stay on just fine, but when you try and take them off...no no no. So by the time you know there's a problem, it's way tooooo late.
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    Anybody tried K&N HighFlow airfilter on Rodeo?
    I was reading through Protege discussion board and seems like a lot of people tried it and were happy. I have also talked to the local auto store and they also recommended it. I was just wondering if it's really that good. It also looks like it needs to be "worked on" after about 50K mi - gotta be soaked in special K&N oil...
  • dielectric7bbdielectric7bb Posts: 324
    from what I've heard doesn't do squat unless you have modified your intake and exhaust a good amount. Stock cars won't see any improvements except for more engine noise (racer boy sound :). That sound can trick people a lot of the times into thinking they have more power. Be very wary of peoples seat of the pants claims unless they added a turbo or a supercharger or some nitrous, you won't notice anything unless you're trying to notice it :)
  • Boris2Boris2 Posts: 177
    dielectric7bb,
    thanks for your input. I am not really expecting any HP increase. I was kinda hoping for gas/mileage increase though. Plus Fram filter would cost me about $25 and needs to be changed every 10-12K mi it K&N is going to pay for itself after 25K miles or so. I was also thinking it might be better for the engine because it'll let more air in.
    The lady in auto store told me that she uses it and she got about 10 extra h.p. - doesn't seem too realistic for me :-)
  • dielectric7bbdielectric7bb Posts: 324
    if there was more air going into the engine at any rpm, the computer would have to put in more fuel to compensate for the extra air. So fuel economy (and or H.P.) generally won't increase except for more modifications and or driving differently.

    I guess it depends on how much the start up cost of a K&N is, and then the maintenance one needs to do to it. I've heard some people say that they got tore up or the like by grit and had to now by another filter. If you want more info on K&N input here on Edmunds, I'd go over to the aftermarket and accessories board. I believe there's already a decent discussion about the product.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I have one on my trooper. It pulls slightly (very little) better in the 4000+rpm range. I've had it in for 30K miles and it hasn't gotten destroyed, despite a few muddy water crossings. I figure it's re-usable so that alone makes it worth the $50 it costs.

    -mike
  • keepontroopinkeepontroopin Posts: 297
    A K&N filter should not improve gas mileage. At best you may see no change in mileage, but most likely you will have a decrease in mileage if you use one. As far as noise goes, there should not be a change. The racerboy sound referred to above comes from modified exhaust systems not air intake. Think of it as your body......if you can breath better does it make your farts louder??? :o) Ha Ha
  • dielectric7bbdielectric7bb Posts: 324
    yes modifying the air-intake system does modify engine noise. I've tried it with no other mods and there is definitly a different sound. On some vehicles it may be nothing, and others it may be very noticeable. It does depend what you are changine and the vehicle. I thought it was strange too (breath=fart louder), but it happens :) My '95 trooper has these baffles on the intake. Those baffles reduce noise. It's really wierd, and even more strange to see, but they do reduce engine noise. I've heard of people putting on k&n or the like and their engine 'sounds better' (giving the thought of improved performance).
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    No change on mine. The only time a K&N filter would make it louder is if you replaced the stock air-box or took out some of the snorkus that are in there. I was talking about a K&N panel drop-in filter, not a cone filter.

    -mike
  • nimoman18nimoman18 Posts: 3
    I put a filter on my 99 Rodeo and there was definitely a difference in power, mind you my car didnt become a dragster but i did notice a difference. After I had it on a few months I started to notice a few problems with my car just randomly shutting off so i removed the filter and put the stock one back on. Im not sure if the filter was causing the problems but i removed it anyway. My gas mileage stayed about the same. Can anyone suggest brands for new brakes and shocks for the rodeo??? also I was interested in putting a navigation system if anyone had opinions on those thanks.
  • drmperaltadrmperalta Posts: 58
    I have a '99 Passport and been thru Bilstein and Monroe matic plus shocks.

    OEM shocks was nice until you hit the bumps. First hit was sharp and then subsequent continuous hits left the SUV floating. Very disaapointing and nerve wrecking when it floats.

    Bilstein had firm ride but can sustain big bumps. It was too stiff for my wife's taste. It made the SUV tossable on the corners and feels very flat even on extreme turns. I found it tiring on long drives.

    Replaced it with Monroe matic plus shocks which gave a much better ride confort. I can speed on the bumps that I used to slow down with the OEM or Bilstein. Other Rodeo owners tried it and liked it very much.

    Now I am interested of putting on Tokico's latest Trekmaster shocks. I made some inquities already from people who used it. You might be interested on there response. Post #1671 & #1672 at "Land Rover Discovery/Discovery II" Feb 23, 2002 8:40pm
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    You shouldn't need brakes yet, unless you are near 50K+ miles. I'd go with OEM ones personally, they will be more $ but they'll last much longer than auto-part-store ones.

    For shocks, my personal favorite are the Rancho 9000s which are adjustable. You can make em firm like the bilstiens, or soft like the monroes. Best of both worlds. I'd like bilstiens in general, but they are usually pricier than others.

    -mike
  • nimoman18nimoman18 Posts: 3
    Thanks for info guys... I am at 52,000 mi. plus the brakes on my car have been terrible from the get go I just never changed them. I actually just had a problem with my ABS system. The module that sends the pulse which pumps the brakes was making a buzzing noise after the car was shut off so I disconected the adapter. I have to take it to the dealer. There was actually a recall on the abs with the 98 models has anyone with 99 and up had problems with the abs? Also Drmperalta has your passports suspension started to squeak yet, and also does your steering wheel get loose at 70 mph plus?? the squeaking and rattling from the exterior and interior has plagued me for the last 30,000 miles and no one can figure out where the noises are coming from. Well thanks again for info.
  • drmperaltadrmperalta Posts: 58
    Haven't noticed suspension squeek on my '99 Passport but noticed that road impact on bumps is louder than Pathfinder (even when it's new).

    ABS. Had it serviced under warranty (Passport and Rodeo has different TSB# and title), replacing rear ABS harness that broke/severed by fatigue.

    Steering. First you should have a proper wheel alignment and wheel balance. If vibration still comes up, we may have similar problem. Noticed vibration on mine around 70 mph (my favorite speed). Switched the tires around and localized vibration to one tire and off to the spare it went. Worn out shocks also contribute because excess wheel movement can be felt at the steering.

    I noticed numerous small rattles when it hits hard on the bumps but with the Monroes softer ride the rattles were not that apparent and haven't noticed CD skips lately.

    Hope that helps.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The reason is that the passport is a body on frame v. pathfinder which is uni-body (at least int he past 7 or so years.) so you are more likely to have road bumps impacting the ride than on a uni-body.

    -mike
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Based upon my oil analysis on various cars these foam filters "DO NOT DO A BETTER JOB" of filtering out silicon (dirt) then the paper OEM filters. Further, it is a pain to clean and reoil them periodically and they tend to fall apart after a few years from heat and cleaning., Save you money, they are not worth it!!!!!!! They may give a few HP etc (probably imagined) but at the risk of more dirt they are not worth it.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Hmm, my K&N is not a foam filter. They aren't that much more $ than the paper filters and help save the environment, not to mention they have a million mile warranty so you can always get them replaced for free.

    -mike
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