I just purchased a Rodeo LS. The maintenance schedule says oil change interval is every 7,500 miles.
Does anybody have any opinions about such a long interval? The dealer says change it at 4,000. The local auto parts store says 3,000. The more I change it, the more money those facilities make. Who should I believe?
Also, has anyone heard of changing the oil at 500 miles or 1000 miles of a new car?
I do 3K oil changes. An ounce of prevention is worth a 1lb of cure. I push to 7500miles when I go to full synthetic oils. I wouldn't do an initial oil change til 1000-1500 miles.
My wife and I recently purchased a 1996 Rodeo AS V6 for $9500 from a larger local dealer in the Waukesha, WI area. The vehicle has 81K, good tires, super clean interior, rust free, all the options (PA, AL, Cruise, Air, DC, Tape, Window tint, roof rack, alloy rims,). I think we got a good deal. I've been driving it consistently for 3 weeks and for the most part, I've been satisfied. However, I've got some observations and questions for other '96 Rodeo owners regarding the vehicle. Lease help me determine which of the following are quirks of the model, and which are the quirks of my particular vehicle. 1. The Spare tire rack "bumps" at take-off and stop, because her's about 1/4 inch of play between the locking post and the spring loaded hook that the post clips to.
That's life I guess, - but I'd like to fix the problem.
I've read on this board that other people heard this noise and thought they had rear-end (differential) problems. I promise you, if you take a Rodeo to the dealership and tell them about the noise (the dealers must know about this problem and the TRUE cause) - they'll look at your rear-end, then they'll rear-end YOU with a big bill for rear-end problems you don't have.
I'm sure I'm not the first person to notice this or to try fixing it. Would anyone like to share how they fixed the problem on their vehicle?
Of course I could just strap it down all the time, but that's a bit of an inconvenience. Any ideas?
2. The windshield wipers Why do the wipers only make 1/2 sweeps of the windshield while in intermittent mode?
I also have to physically hold the wiper lever in the mist position to keep the wiper running. As soon as I let go of the lever the wipers stop - even in mid-sweep - rather than returning to the lowered position, as did all my previous cars. Is this normal, or have I got a bum wiper motor or possibly a bad timer switch?
3. Noise - Yes, I've noticed a bit of noise. The vehicle is not the best insulated. Bear in mind, it's not a Cadillac. I've noticed that when driving on wet pavement, I keep thinking the windows are open, because it sounds especially "wet" Am I goofy?
I have not noticed an extremely high amount of wind noise. Our other vehicles are a dodge Neon and a '86 Toyots Pickup, so it's all relative I guess.
4. Rattling from passenger side rear door - - - NOt obnoxiously loud, but noticeable when I hit bumps. Could it also be the spare tire rack (again)? Any ideas? I haven't had a chance to look into it too much.
5. I need to get some accesory type parts - The window shade type mechanism used to cover the cargo area, the shade that snaps over the sun roof, etc. Where can I get it and how much should I expectto get stabbed for these "fluff" parts? I'd like to try my luck at the junk yards, but I don't think I'll score. Any aftermarket makers of this stuff? Does anyone know if JC Whitney can provide this type of stuff?
6. O yeah, and the console and use of space between the driver's and passenger's seats is WEAK. Piss-poor, cup holders positioned out of reach, little storage space for tapes/cds/sunglasses/change and other random junk, tuner and cd player seperated from each other by a good 12 inches on the dash, ......and what the hell is behind the plastic cover just below the cd player......is it where the cd changer is supposed to go if you've got one? Well I haven't got one of those, so I'd like to remove the cover to make better use of what is now dead space. Has anyone else tried this?
7. And the seats (cloth), even on my LS model are minimal at best. I like the manual rather than power (motorized) adjustment - less to break, cheaper to fix. But the seats lack lumbar and seat bottom tilt adjustments. How LAME can you get? I haven't driven the truck on any long trips, but I think it will be a chalenge to drive more three hours at a crack in a seat with such limited adjustment. I'm almost tempted to swap out the driver's seat with the one currently in my old Toyota (or a junkyard gem). Is it possible? Will I have problems? Can anyone recommend a budget-minded fix for the problem or a good aftermarket replacement? Looks are my last concern.
1) Rear tire holder. It will latch if lightly closed and bang around. You have to make sure it closes all the way. I remember whenever I let someone else drive my '97 i'd find the rear tire carrier partially latched. So it definitely there is something wrong there.
2)Wipers. Sounds like you have a bad wiper relay or switch. My '96 on mist would swipe 3-4x and in intermittent would do a full sweep.
3)Noise. Yes. My '97 was extremely noisey, especially in the rain. I could tell when I was going 60mph w/o even looking at the speedo.
I went to a hardware store and bought some of those rubber or felt cushions that have the adhesive on one side.I stuck the felt ones on the rear tire mount (two) where the rubber bumbers hit. This took up the slack and no more tire bangs. DC HOPP
Currently, Isuzu is offering 0% interest for up to 60 months or a $1,500 dealer cash incentive on 2001 Rodeos. First question, does the dealer still receive the cash incentive from the factory if the customer selects the 0% interest?
Secondly, in addition to the hold back, does the dealer receive the "floor plan" back from the factory when the vehicle is sold?
Lastly, has anyone recently purchased a 2001 Rodeo at or below Edmunds' TMV price?
The dealer cannot get the incentive if you choose the 0% financing. Basically, it goes by VIN #, after you buy it, the dealer submits the VIN and gets the $ back.
I think the Edmunds TMV IMHO is a bit low for most vehicles.
Skylerpup- It used to be change the oil at 750 miles give or take. The reason being to remove the 'break-in' additives (rings, bearings, blah blah blah) I have heard that the engines are tested before they are installed. I don't know of how long the break in period is in the factory, but it wouldn't hurt to change the oil at 500-1k miles. (I did at 800miles)
I have a '01 Rodeo and I had the same problem. Took it to the dealer and it was the mudflaps. I guess Isuzu redesigned them. They did have to order them (maybe you'll be lucky and the dealer will have them in stock) and they replaced them. The noise is no longer! Hope this helps.
I recently purchased a '01 Rodeo LS 2wd with 0.0% financing for 60 months. I paid 3% over invoice, which translated to $1,000 off MSRP. If I had not elected the 0.0% financing, the dealer was willing to take off an additional $3K from the price. As noted in the previous posts, you can't get both the financing and the incentive. Edmunds' TMV and invoice price are not accurate. The dealer showed me his invoice, which was almost $1K more that Edmunds' invoice, but agreed with The Kelly Blue Book invoice price. Go to www.kbb.com for invoice pricing on the Rodeo.
Assuming a 7% interest rate, I will save over $4,500 in finance charges, so I am very happy with the deal. I went in on a Friday afternoon and the dealer let me test drive the vehicle over the weekend and gave me a full tank of gas. We returned to the dealer on Monday and closed the deal, and the dealer topped off my tank again!
I also recently purchased a '01 Rodeo LS 4wd with 0.0% financing for 60 months. I paid $175 under invoice for the vehicle. I thought that was an excellent deal. I think you will be hard pressed to find prices much lower. If you are in the Fredericksburg, VA area, I would suggest you stop by the Isuzu dealer (www.barnettmotors.com). They haven't been selling very many. I would think you could get a good deal.
I need a little help on pricing. When you say you pay "$175 under invoice" is that "out the door" or should I figure in Destination Charge other fees and tax, too? In other words, what should I expect for an OTD price based on invoice? I am looking at a Rodeo LS 2WD w/Comfort Pkg. and Appearance Pkg. that invoices at $23,828. What should I look at for Out the Door, and what is the formula?
The $175 under invoice I paid was before taxes and tags. That price did include destination charge. So, the invoice for the Rodeo LS 4WD I bought was $26664. I paid $26489 + VA tax + $34 for tags.
I would think you should be able to get that Rodeo (OTD) for $23828 - $x + taxes + tags.
Yes, the Isuzu engines are very good engines, the only downside is some of them burn 1Q ever 1000 miles. Its the only gremlin really related to these engines. Just make sure to check your oil every 2 or 3 fuel-ups. Check out the FAQ section of http://isuzu-suvs.com for more info.
I am looking into buying an isuzu rodeo in the next few weeks. Sat, i went browsing a local dealer and saw:
1. 2000 Rodeo LSE.....NEW Sticker: $31k 2. 2000 Rodeo LS Ironman Sticker: $30 3. 2001 Rodeo LS Anniversary Edition $28k
What is the best deal of these three? Would you buy a 200 model even though it's almost time for the 2002 models? What are the advantages and disadvantages of all three?
First off, thanks to everyone on these boards. The input is great for information collector that I am.
Now, is the LSE that much better for the money than an LS? I am interested in a 2001 Rodeo, largely due to the 0% financing. I can afford a new car payment at that price, or I would have to look at used.
I am going to finance for 60 mos., and think I will keep it a good two years after. Is the Leather seats and body color mirrors worth the price?
For those who want a cheap SUV that is a SUV instead of a big car, please look at Chevy/Suzuki Tracker. We purchased a 2001 Tracker, with RED, AC, Autotrans, AS, BB, PA, built on a truck frame and not unit body, full body cladding, luggage rack, running boards, 15" mag wheels, V-6, full size spare with cover, cruz control all for a drive out price of $19,000. Also, you can get a cheaper version for a drive out of $14,000 with Autotrans. Before you scoff, drive and see what is out there.
Chill out. First off you need to add to any price you quote for a traker/grand vitara at least $1000-$1500 just for the warranty price that is INCLUDED FROM THE FACTORY on all Isuzus. 3/50K bumper to bumper + 10/120K on all mechanical/powertrain stuff.
Beyond that, the traker is a decent vehicle, but it's very hard to compare the Traker and the Rodeo. If you get a stripped down Rodeo, you can bring it in damn cheap as the actual selling price ($2500 rebates are usually the norm) not to mention they run forever. (I had a '97 that was just like new never visited a dealer, went through 1 set of tires, and 2 sets of brake pads in 120K miles)
It's kinda like comparing a camary to a metro, yes, the metro is gonna be a lot cheaper, but they are in totally different classes.
Does anyone else have a problem with the spoare tire latch on their Rodeo? Ive tried several times to fix ours with no luck. The dealer said it was normal of course, since the warranty was almost up. Also, does anyone know what kind of gas mileage to expect? Ours is a 4cyl 5speed, and its been getting about 22mpg, with quite a bit of leadfooting. I don't know anyone else that owns one, so not sure what to expect from it really. It just flipped 51K on the odo, and still has the factory brakes, and a surprising amount of tread left on the tires.
I have a 1999 rodeo ls with a manual transmission. The clutch went out suddenly at 25K miles and the replacement clutch went out again suddenly 7K miles after being repaired. I drive the car very conservatively and I do not ride the clutch or abuse it in any way such as quick starts etc. Both times Izuzu claimed it was a "driver problem" and each time I had to fork over 900.00 for the repair. Izuzu's "great warranty" only covers the clutch for 12K miles. Has anyone had any similar problems or has Izuzu had trouble with the rodeo clutch?
I just purchased Rodeo 2001 LS. When I break on hard suface, like break reads or just before stoping for signal, I get something bangging noice from my passenger side. First I thought it was my seat-belt buckels making noice, but that wasn't it becuase I kept my seatbelts buckeled up to keep them from bangging against vinile surface. Took to nearest dealership, and he could not hear anything?
Thanks for the info on the tracker. A friend of mine has one and the local country club allows him to use it as a golf cart. As long as it has no leaks, he can drive it on the greens. DCH
Hi, I'm looking at either a LS Rodeo or a Trooper. I'm really no good at dealing for cars, but am friends with a manager at Isuzu so i hope he doesn't try to rob me. In any case, i want to be prepared and know what he's talking when he shows me the figures. Can someone help me figure out what i SHOULD expect to pay on a 2001 Rodeo LS? Thanks so much.
when i look for good prices on cars, i always use carsdirect.com as a starting point. their prices are almost always lower than edmunds' TMV prices. right now, the carsdirect price for a rodeo ls 4x4 is $24,218 w/auto. That's about $1,000 below invoice. you should also consider the s model if you can do without things like remote keyless entry. an s 4x4 model with auto, ac, power windows/locks (preferred eqip. package #2) is $23,273.
My wife and I just bought a 2001 Rodeo and really like it so far. I just have some questions maybe someone here can answer. 1. Where do I find OFF-ROAD reviews of this vehicle? 2. When is the recommended FIRST oil change? 3. How about oil changes after that? 4. Anybody know where you can get an on-line, owners tips/tricks manual for this vehicle?
I have a 96 and had a simular noise on the passenger side. The jack assy. tools are located in the passenger side rear seat and the jack handle will on occasion work loose and rattle. If yours are located in the same place I would check it out. DCH
I have a 1998 Rodeo, I purchased it new, got a great deal. Now I know why. I have had just about all the problems and noises I've read on the message boards. I had the hinges replaced on the hood for that squeak, the bug shield squeaks also). I had all 4 Brake rotors and pads replaced at twenty four thousand miles due to pitting on the rotors, (Warranty). I had intake gaskets replaced at thirty seven thousand miles, (warranty). All speed sensors and speedometer head replaced due to short in wiring harness, which I fixed after it was in the shop the fourth time, I just reached under the dash and gave it a yank, problem solved except the check engine light came on, and yes the vehicle flies thou intersections if you hit rough pavement when you apply the brakes, or lack of. What I really want to know has anyone found out what the thud noise is when you come to a stop and then slowly start up again, the dealer said I am imagining things that there is no such noise and if there is it's normal. Well if there is no noise how can that be normal. I also have the mildew smell from the air conditioner and the stained headline.
I have a '98 Rodeo and I am having a rattle in my back window. Everytime I go over a bump or ditch the back window cracks and rattles. I have already replaced the hinges thinking that might be the problem but it's not. Does anyone else have the same problem or some advice?
The bumper trim of my '99 Passport just arrived today. I tried to install it but the bracket for the upper mount is too wide and the bolts don't fit. The distance between left and right bolts on the bumper is 19 inches but the holes on the bracket are 20.7 inches apart, the miiddle holes also does not align.
I recently purchased a new 2001 rodeo sport. It gave a really nice ride and I am relatively pleased with it so far (2 months, 2500 miles). However, there is one think that concerns me....the brakes. If I am on smooth, recently paved roads, the brakes work fine. However, if I brake while going over bumps/potholes/rough patches, the brakes make a weird noise (almost like a thud or like metal bending) and seem to "give". I have to take my foot off the brake and re-apply. This is my first SUV and supposedly, the thing has both ABS and disc brakes? Whatever. The question is, has anyone else experienced this? If so, what was the cause? Any information will be helpful... Thanks!!!
This article about Antilock Brakes may help too. (Misunderstandings about the system are widespread). Steve Host Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Hi, i had a 95 Rodeo (very happy with that) and then the infamous 98 model with many problems. I'm sticking with them though, and am looking into the 2001. for those of you with the 2001, have you been happy with yours? What, if any, are the major problems to be aware of? Is the TMV a fair estimate of what to pay for an LS?
I wanted to get some advice from the experts. I think i'm being offered a really BAD deal....2001 LS Rodeo (Demo with 5400 miles) MSRP $26164, will sell for $24,350. Doesn't sound like a deal to me. Second one was 2000 LS Rodeo with roof, 6 disc changer, and woodgrain MSRP $26,950, sell for $26,227. Is it me or are these bad deals? Thanks!
Okay I need as much help as you can give me!! I'm looking at a 97 Rodeo, 125,000 km, price about 12,000. I need as much pro's & con's and experience you have with them and things to watch out for.. How does the gas milage compare to a 3.0 litre, 6 cylinder light truck. Problems with brakes?? Please let me know asap, I'm going to look at it soon. thank!!!! you can let me know directly at orcawaters@hotmail.com...
Hi again, I am still not convinced that the brakes are ok. I had ABS in my prior car and I realize that they sort of take a little while longer to kick in (they don't lock up like disc brakes). But I never heard any weird noises. I am more concerned with why I notice them more when going over bumps and why they make that weird noise...almost like metal bending (like it was pushed beyond the stress point). Kinda hard to describe the noise. If it is the ABS, that is fine, but does anyone else have that weird noise??? Thanks for the feedback guys!
It's the ABS pump working that's making the noise, and it does feel weird and I do get it over bumps (especially here in NYC) with my Trooper. I notice it does it a lot less since I upgraded from the Hydrolic Stock Shocks to Gas-Charged after-market shocks on my trooper. The upgraded shocks keep the wheels on the road over bumps better than the stock ones, and therefore the wheels have more grip and don't jump up on bumps. When they bounce up and loose traction during braking over bumps, the ABS sensors detect that as wheel lock and try to counteract it. Hope that helps.
I am also looking at a 2001 Rodeo LS with the appearance and confort packages. The best price in the Baltimore area so far has been $100 over invoice, which puts it around $25,661 I think. That's only because I wanted the 0% financing. If you get your own financing or purchase it outright, you can get the $3000 dealer cash and a better "price". I have now expanded my options for an SUV to a Cherokee Limited or Sport because they are offering 0.9% to 36 mo and 2.9% up to 48m, both with $1000 cash. Fully optioned, I think I can get it to $22,000 for the 4dr 4x4. Any other thoughts out there on these prices (Rodeo especially)? Thanks.
finally drove one today...I LIKE IT! Found a 2000 LS at Carmax for $18K so I would need to find my own financing. I have 3 dealers to call tomorrow and 1 of them faxed me his invoice. Am I correct in assuming that the $851 holdback is taken off the true invoice price to get his real cost? Even though he didn't sell the car in 90 days, he got the money up front in his quarterly check from Isuzu, right? If that's the case, I'm offering $24K plus tax and tags for a 4x4 LS '01 with app pkg, comfort pkg, 16" whls, body molding and cargo cover. I figured his invoice to be $24,137. He wants to charge advertising and a floor plan charge which I told him no way. Wish me luck - I'll post the results if I have it tomorrow. Any more suggestions? The posts here have helped alot. Thanks.
Comments
Does anybody have any opinions about such a long interval? The dealer says change it at 4,000. The local auto parts store says 3,000. The more I change it, the more money those facilities make. Who should I believe?
Also, has anyone heard of changing the oil at 500 miles or 1000 miles of a new car?
Thanks!
-mike
1. The Spare tire rack "bumps" at take-off and stop, because her's about 1/4 inch of play between the locking post and the spring loaded hook that the post clips to.
That's life I guess, - but I'd like to fix the problem.
I've read on this board that other people heard this noise and thought they had rear-end (differential) problems. I promise you, if you take a Rodeo to the dealership and tell them about the noise (the dealers must know about this problem and the TRUE cause) - they'll look at your rear-end, then they'll rear-end YOU with a big bill for rear-end problems you don't have.
I'm sure I'm not the first person to notice this or to try fixing it. Would anyone like to share how they fixed the problem on their vehicle?
Of course I could just strap it down all the time, but that's a bit of an inconvenience.
Any ideas?
2. The windshield wipers
Why do the wipers only make 1/2 sweeps of the windshield while in intermittent mode?
I also have to physically hold the wiper lever in the mist position to keep the wiper running. As soon as I let go of the lever the wipers stop - even in mid-sweep - rather than returning to the lowered position, as did all my previous cars.
Is this normal, or have I got a bum wiper motor or possibly a bad timer switch?
3. Noise -
Yes, I've noticed a bit of noise. The vehicle is not the best insulated. Bear in mind, it's not a Cadillac. I've noticed that when driving on wet pavement, I keep thinking the windows are open, because it sounds especially "wet" Am I goofy?
I have not noticed an extremely high amount of wind noise. Our other vehicles are a dodge Neon and a '86 Toyots Pickup, so it's all relative I guess.
4. Rattling from passenger side rear door - - -
NOt obnoxiously loud, but noticeable when I hit bumps. Could it also be the spare tire rack (again)?
Any ideas? I haven't had a chance to look into it too much.
5. I need to get some accesory type parts -
The window shade type mechanism used to cover the cargo area, the shade that snaps over the sun roof, etc.
Where can I get it and how much should I expectto get stabbed for these "fluff" parts? I'd like to try my luck at the junk yards, but I don't think I'll score.
Any aftermarket makers of this stuff? Does anyone know if JC Whitney can provide this type of stuff?
6. O yeah, and the console and use of space between the driver's and passenger's seats is WEAK. Piss-poor, cup holders positioned out of reach, little storage space for tapes/cds/sunglasses/change and other random junk, tuner and cd player seperated from each other by a good 12 inches on the dash, ......and what the hell is behind the plastic cover just below the cd player......is it where the cd changer is supposed to go if you've got one?
Well I haven't got one of those, so I'd like to remove the cover to make better use of what is now dead space. Has anyone else tried this?
7. And the seats (cloth), even on my LS model are minimal at best. I like the manual rather than power (motorized) adjustment - less to break, cheaper to fix. But the seats lack lumbar and seat bottom tilt adjustments. How LAME can you get? I haven't driven the truck on any long trips, but I think it will be a chalenge to drive more three hours at a crack in a seat with such limited adjustment. I'm almost tempted to swap out the driver's seat with the one currently in my old Toyota (or a junkyard gem). Is it possible? Will I have problems? Can anyone recommend a budget-minded fix for the problem or a good aftermarket replacement? Looks are my last concern.
1) Rear tire holder. It will latch if lightly closed and bang around. You have to make sure it closes all the way. I remember whenever I let someone else drive my '97 i'd find the rear tire carrier partially latched. So it definitely there is something wrong there.
2)Wipers. Sounds like you have a bad wiper relay or switch. My '96 on mist would swipe 3-4x and in intermittent would do a full sweep.
3)Noise. Yes. My '97 was extremely noisey, especially in the rain. I could tell when I was going 60mph w/o even looking at the speedo.
4) Maybe your rear door needs adjustment?
5) http://isuzu-suvs.com has a ton of links to aftermarket places
Also you might want to post up on the owners club area of edmunds.
-mike
DC HOPP
Secondly, in addition to the hold back, does the dealer receive the "floor plan" back from the factory when the vehicle is sold?
Lastly, has anyone recently purchased a 2001 Rodeo at or below Edmunds' TMV price?
I think the Edmunds TMV IMHO is a bit low for most vehicles.
-mike
It used to be change the oil at 750 miles give or take. The reason being to remove the 'break-in' additives (rings, bearings, blah blah blah)
I have heard that the engines are tested before they are installed. I don't know of how long the break in period is in the factory, but it wouldn't hurt to change the oil at 500-1k miles. (I did at 800miles)
Assuming a 7% interest rate, I will save over $4,500 in finance charges, so I am very happy with the deal. I went in on a Friday afternoon and the dealer let me test drive the vehicle over the weekend and gave me a full tank of gas. We returned to the dealer on Monday and closed the deal, and the dealer topped off my tank again!
Good Luck on your shopping
Good Luck
I need a little help on pricing. When you say you pay "$175 under invoice" is that "out the door" or should I figure in Destination Charge other fees and tax, too? In other words, what should I expect for an OTD price based on invoice? I am looking at a Rodeo LS 2WD w/Comfort Pkg. and Appearance Pkg. that invoices at $23,828. What should I look at for Out the Door, and what is the formula?
Thanks for all of your help.
I would think you should be able to get that Rodeo (OTD) for $23828 - $x + taxes + tags.
Good Luck!
Thanks
JD
-mike
1. 2000 Rodeo LSE.....NEW Sticker: $31k
2. 2000 Rodeo LS Ironman Sticker: $30
3. 2001 Rodeo LS Anniversary Edition $28k
What is the best deal of these three? Would you buy a 200 model even though it's almost time for the 2002 models? What are the advantages and disadvantages of all three?
Now, is the LSE that much better for the money than an LS? I am interested in a 2001 Rodeo, largely due to the 0% financing. I can afford a new car payment at that price, or I would have to look at used.
I am going to finance for 60 mos., and think I will keep it a good two years after. Is the Leather seats and body color mirrors worth the price?
Thanks.
-mike
Beyond that, the traker is a decent vehicle, but it's very hard to compare the Traker and the Rodeo. If you get a stripped down Rodeo, you can bring it in damn cheap as the actual selling price ($2500 rebates are usually the norm) not to mention they run forever. (I had a '97 that was just like new never visited a dealer, went through 1 set of tires, and 2 sets of brake pads in 120K miles)
It's kinda like comparing a camary to a metro, yes, the metro is gonna be a lot cheaper, but they are in totally different classes.
-mike
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
My latch I thought had a problem, but if I slammed it it would latch properly.
-mike
Both times Izuzu claimed it was a "driver problem" and each time I had to fork over 900.00 for the repair. Izuzu's "great warranty" only covers the clutch for 12K miles.
Has anyone had any similar problems or has Izuzu had trouble with the rodeo clutch?
Took to nearest dealership, and he could not hear anything?
Any hints?
JE
DCH
I'm looking at either a LS Rodeo or a Trooper. I'm really no good at dealing for cars, but am friends with a manager at Isuzu so i hope he doesn't try to rob me. In any case, i want to be prepared and know what he's talking when he shows me the figures. Can someone help me figure out what i SHOULD expect to pay on a 2001 Rodeo LS? Thanks so much.
1. Where do I find OFF-ROAD reviews of this vehicle?
2. When is the recommended FIRST oil change?
3. How about oil changes after that?
4. Anybody know where you can get an on-line, owners tips/tricks manual for this vehicle?
Thanks,
Tom
Oil changes: 1st @ 1500, 3000-7500 thereafter. I do 7500 interval running mobil 1 synthetic in my Trooper. On conventional oil I do them @ 3K.
-mike
If yours are located in the same place I would check it out.
DCH
I never buy 1st years of any car, cause there is always problems (see Tribute/Escape, Liberty, etc)
-mike
Anybody has similar experience?
Thanks
-mike
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Thanks!!!
becky
Thanks!
I am still not convinced that the brakes are ok. I had ABS in my prior car and I realize that they sort of take a little while longer to kick in (they don't lock up like disc brakes). But I never heard any weird noises. I am more concerned with why I notice them more when going over bumps and why they make that weird noise...almost like metal bending (like it was pushed beyond the stress point). Kinda hard to describe the noise. If it is the ABS, that is fine, but does anyone else have that weird noise???
Thanks for the feedback guys!
-mike