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Isuzu Rodeo

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Comments

  • bstreetbstreet Member Posts: 37
    I have a 98. In December it had to have it's entire engine replaced, and ever since, there is a noticeable difference in the power/underpower. It almost feels like they messed up and put a 4 cylinder in it sometimes.
  • bama_lukebama_luke Member Posts: 27
    Back in December, we had some pretty cold weather and ice on the roads for a day or two. I was driving when I thought the ice was gone, but was wrong. I went under a bridge and hit an ice spot that launched the rear end of my Rodeo out sideways. I fishtaled twice before regaining control. At no time during this incident did I ever feel like the truck could roll over.

    On a different front, I was in a minor fender bender about a week after buying the truck. Someone tried to do a UTurn in front of me during rush hour traffic. The impact was probably between 5 - 10 mph, but did over $1,300 in damage. Visual external damage was minimal, but some stuff up under the front fender, one of the headlights, and one front quarterpanel had to be replaced.
  • 424869424869 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 ls Rodeo, does anyone have trouble with the driver seat making a constant squeaking noise? It is driving me crazy!
  • 424869424869 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same trouble with my brakes, but the dealer can"t recreate it, I have a 2000 ls Rodeo, I am sure there is something wrong!
  • elingdoelingdo Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone heard of any problems with the 2001 Rodeos vibrating while driving at highway speeds? I have a new 2001 Rodeo which started having this problem after 3000 miles. I've brought it into the dealer 3 times already and they kept insisting that there was a problem with the tires. I had 4 new tires put on and an alignment done and I'm still have the problem.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Try having the tires balanced on a Hunter 9000 high speed balancing machine. I believe that fixed most of the shaking problems that the '98s had.

    -mike
  • drmpdrmp Member Posts: 187
    Can you give more info about the new tire? What brand? I think the alignment spec has also been changed recently.

    I had a vibration problem at 20K miles ('99 Passport) and went with Hunter GSP 9700 for balancing two times and was told it's not the tires (tires were good, Bridgestone duelers).

    I manually measured the toe alignement and adjusted it to near zero (spec is with slight toe-in). That solved my vibration problem.

    Keep us posted.
  • jefff5jefff5 Member Posts: 1
    Had a 1988 trooper, 1994 trooper and had broken lug nuts every time a tire came off the truck for any reason, in fact, I used to carry spare studs and nuts. I have 2000 Rodeo and have not taken tires off yet, wouldnt be surprised if I had the same problem. Everyone knows about it, all the tire shops etc.
    My 2000 Rodeo seems to have a problem when I go over any type of bump and coincidentally step on the brakes, I get almost an ABS chatter in the brakes. Happens almost every time I hit a serious bump. Anyone else have that one. Other than that, the Rodeo has been pretty good so far.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I have the same effect on bumpy roads with the abs. It's not really something I'm concerned with, just got used to the abs kicking in when I throw a wheel up off the ground.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    10-11pm EST. Come chat with other Isuzu Owners. If you are an owner, or prospective owner, you don't want to miss this opportunity to get in touch live with other's who have real world experience.


    http://www.edmunds.com/chat/isuzuchat.html


    -mike

  • gobetagobeta Member Posts: 3
    In response to message #182 regarding problems with the Rodeo in-dash CD changer...
    I also am experiencing similar problems. I have a 99 Rodeo LS with the 6-disk in dash changer. Last week, it just stopped working (while in use), with 4 disks stuck inside. I cannot play or eject any of them. I just get a beeping sound and an "Err 3" message on the display. My warranty has expired, so i was hoping that there is a fairly easy fix that I could perform on my own. Right now, I'd be happy just to get my disks out. And the owner's manual is not helpful at all -- it merely says that if you get the "Err 3" message, then eject the disk -- but I can't! Any thoughts out there? Sounds like I'm not the only one with this problem. Thanks for any help...
  • bama_lukebama_luke Member Posts: 27
    When I purchased my LS 2000, I planned on upgrading the casette deck and have done so. I was able to get a JVC casette w/ 12 disk changer and it works great. If I had a previous CD player with a stuck CD, once I got the new system working, I'd just take the old stereo apart, remove the CD, and throw the old stereo away. (I've never taken a CD player apart before, so this might not be a viable solution to retrieve the stuck CD.)

    Luke
  • conman2000conman2000 Member Posts: 158
    Try unpluging the fuses for the radio or the battery and wait a few minutes. This might "reset" the changer. My Sony Changer in a previous car I had use to do the same thing. It seems I don't have much luck with radios and changers as every car/truck I have owned(except a previous 88 Isuzu Pickup), has had the factory radio replaced under warranty(knock on wood for my new 01 Trooper). One would not play CDs and another the buttons went bad. The bad thing about CD players is that there are so many moving parts(plus the laser) that they are bound to break. To repair the factory radio after the warr. expires is a very pricey option. Best bet is to get an aftermarket setup which might sound better than factory plus be cheaper. I just saw a radio/changer combo at the SONY Outlet center for under $275 for all. Not a bad deal.

    Cheers,
    Con

    P.S. How far out of warr. are you? You might want to call Isuzu and see if they will fix it anyway as it appears to be a common problem with the 6disc. My mom had her power winder motor replaced(Galant) after the warr. as "goodwill" which many manufatures still do today.
  • gtborngtborn Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Isuzu Rodeo that since I bought new have had endless problems. I have had to have the engine replace and now it is in the shop again needing another engine, had to replace the clutch system, alternator and many more small problems.
    Have anyone been having such problems. Right now I am fighting with Isuzu and the dealers because I sure as hell don't want this vehicle any more.
    Any advice will be greatly appreciated
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm sure someone will buy it. '98 was the first year of the new body style and engine, it is bound to have problems. Don't expect Isuzu or your dealer to give you any sympathy it's over 3 years old now. Sell it on your own, you'll get more $.

    -mike
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Isuzu Rides Two-Door Rodeo Into Suv Market

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Timing belts are being recalled on the 4 cylinder rodeos/amigos. 98-present IIRC. More details as they become available.

    -mike
  • campusrev1campusrev1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '00 Rodeo LS 4WD and the front brakes squeak incessantly. I've taken it in to two different Isuzu dealers, both kept the vehicle for better than 8 hours and neither were able to rectify the problem.

    At least they admitted to hearing the squeak but they explained that it's due to the new material used on brakes--material without asbestos.

    Has anyone ever heard of this? And how come it seems that my Rodeo is the only one doing it?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It is true about the asbestosless brakes. What happens is the pads are probably what they call "Glazed over" where the pads get overheated and get a smooth glaze on them where the surface touches the rotors. It isn't harmful and won't hinder your ability to brake. If it bothers you a lot you can take the pads off, and use some light sandpaper on them, to de-glaze them (or pay a mechanic to do it) or just replace the pads altogether. Hope this helps.

    -mike
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    I wish there was an easier way to clean off brake dust. I spend at least 25% of my car wash time on those alloy wheels. The sprays work ok but the only good way to clean them is with a brillo pad. It seems to work the best for me.
  • bstreetbstreet Member Posts: 37
    Hi, I had the SAME problems....heads on the engine leaked, had to have the entire engine replaced last december, and now still problems. brakes don't work properly. a/c problems. problems, problems, problems. I have gotten NO help from Isuzu, other than extending my warranty on the problems that i reported (but were never fixed)the day I left the lot. I've got 10 months left on this lease and am considering paying the penalty of early turn-in just to get rid of it.
    email me if you wanna chat.
    good luck
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Once the wheels are cleaned well put a good coat of wax on them. The brake dust will wash off very easily with the regular car wash soap you use. I have not used wheel cleaners in years after the first coat of wax .
  • campusrev1campusrev1 Member Posts: 2
    Molto Grazie, paisan. I'll take your advice. Someone else told me that the shop can apply some kind of goo or liquid to the existing brake pads which absorb the goo and voila, they don't squeak anymore!

    Ciao Bello!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Anytime!

    -mike
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    Everyone talks about tire pressure but just how accurate are those gauges you use to measure tire pressure. I started out with a collection of 38 tire gauges (loaned to me)
    Various sizes and shapes, some new and some very old. Also we tested some digital
    gauges some cheap the others expensive. Our test was conducted at our aircraft maintenance shop and against a highly accurate calibrated air pressure standard. I took each gauge and measured three air pressures consisting of 25, 35 and 45 lbs.
    All the testing is done and the results in Parts will be published at various times.
    Part one consisted of the most popular tire gauge called the pocket or pen type gauge which cost anywhere from $ 1.00 to $ 2.50 range and they have a white plastic dial reading. I tested 5 new ones (Victor, Monkey Grip etc) that were purchased at nationwide chain and auto stores. Each of the new ones read entirely different pressures with the worst being as much as 6 lbs. lower at 25 lbs. While an exact duplicate gauge read 3lbs. lower at 25 lbs. The new ones where mostly 3 lbs lower at 25lbs but improved at the higher pressures of 35 and 45 lbs. There averages where about 2 lbs. at the higher pressures. I tried exercising the dial a few times by pulling it in and out and taking the readings again and some improved by as much as a lb. at the lower reading. I then test older gauges of this type 3 to 10 years and the results were worse in some cases. It seams the older the gauge the lower the accuracy and they are the worst at the lower pressure. Some were off as much as 8 lbs. By the way all of the gauges we tested read low except one and that had an obvious defect. I took the older gauges and sprayed the dial with WD-40 and exercised it about 10 times and then I went back and redid the test and improved the readings to that of a new gauge. One gauge was 7 lbs lower at 35lbs and after my operation the gauge improved to about 2.5 lbs lower. One gauge that was 10 years old had better accuracy than one that was 3 years old, but generally the older the gauge, the lower the accuracy of gauges of this type. You get what you pay for.
    In conclusion its best to add 2 or 3 lbs of more air to your tires if you use this kind of gauge. If you want 30 lbs put in the air till your pen type gauge reads 32 or 33 lbs. and don't forget to exercise the dial a few times before checking the tire pressure. On the older ones spray the dial with WD-40 or some silicone lube and exercise the dial about 10 times.
    Part 2 deals with more expensive gauges with some surprising results until then-- by
    DCH
  • gt1953gt1953 Member Posts: 7
    well it came on and I am out in the middle of no mans land so I called the hotline number in the owners manual. the asked me to tighten the gas cap and dissconnect the battery for about 3 minutes. the lite went out any ideas??
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    it's common on new cars that if a service station doesn't tighten down the cap 100% or if there is a minor leak of vacum anywhere in the fuel system that the CE light comes on. I had/have a similar problem with my trooper, i am bringing it in for service to find out exactly why the CE light comes and goes, but it isn't dangerous.

    -mike
  • wbabbottwbabbott Member Posts: 8
    Have a '98 Rodeo with the ABS light on. Anyone out there have a possible "quick fix" for this problem. I'll try anything rather than taking it to the Dealer....

    Thanks
  • wbabbottwbabbott Member Posts: 8
    I have a '98 Rodeo that had what sounded like a rear door/window rattle when going over bumps or railroad tracks. Sometimes the rattle would even occur on uneven pavement. I could never find the source of the rattle. I finally got in the rear compartment and someone drive the vehicle. I pinpointed that it actually sounded like it was coming from the tire jack compartment. It tightened the jack and looked for any loose items in the compartment.... still the rattle.

    I finally had one of my mechanics ride back there and when we stopped the vehicle he looked up under the rear left fender. There he found a metal bracket that supports the rear fender. He bent the bracket so that it was in a more "taut" position.... rattle disappeared.

    Do your best to identify exactly where the rattle is coming from. It's usually something simple.
  • spencerkechispencerkechi Member Posts: 7
    Rodeo lovers and haters: I need some info. I have a 2000 LS with 11,000 miles on it. About 6k or 7k miles I started noticing a pinging sound on acceleration, much like the sound that my 1987 IROC makes on 87 Octane gas on acceleration. I don't have to accelerate hard for this sound to manifest itself. The local dealer says it is normal "lifter or belt" noise. I think that is 100% bull. It didn't do it until around 6,000 miles. Isuzu says they have had similiar noise, which they call "detonation problems", and that a CD was issued to correct it. The dealership is reluctant to put the updates into my computer. Needless to say, I am getting pissed off. If this sound is normal, then Isuzu has problems. No car should sound like this, especially a new one. There is no floating Isuzu reps within 200 miles of where I live, so I thought I would ask everyone who owns one of these:

    DOES YOUR RODEO LS V6 MAKE PINGING SOUNDS ON ACCELERATION, ESPECIALLY AFTER 30 MPHs AND MORE PREVALENT AS YOU GET FASTER UNTIL YOU STOP THE ACCELERATION?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Does it happen in warm weather only?

    Over on the subaru site, a lot of people are noticing a similar thing on their cars since the warm weather has started. It could be bad gas roaming around, or ODBII causing problems.

    -mike
  • spencerkechispencerkechi Member Posts: 7
    This has been going on for 5000 miles now, different gas, different stations. The dealership says this LS should not be run with anything higher than 87 ocatane. That seems a little fishy, but I can't afford the higher stuff anyway. There is something wrong with this car. I thought dealerships made money off of manufacturers when on warranty work. You would think they would be interested in looking into it further.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I had some problems with my Trooper when I first got it and they worked on it 5x even had an Isuzu rep come down. Finally I just brought it to a different dealer and they fixed it properly the first time.

    -mike
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    I goofed. Disreguard the section of adding 2 or 3 lbs of air to achieve 30lbs.What I meant to say was to achieve 30lbs of air presure This type of a gauge will indicate around 28lbs based on the average. The avg was about 2lbs. short.
    DCH
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    spencerkechi,
    I had the same thing on my 2000 V6 Amigo, at about 10,000 miles. I tried a bottle of Cheveron Techon, (which is suppose to clean the injectors and valves) advice from a member here. And 1500 miles later I have not heard a ping yet! Try it and see if it helps. It's only like 4 bucks at Walmart.
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    Does anyone know the size wrench or socket that fits the oil pan plug on the 3.2L V6 1996 Rodeo. A 7/8th feels sloppy so it must be metric.
    DCH
  • drmpdrmp Member Posts: 187
    fuel system cleaner (SUV size bottle) for less than 5 bucks. It's been 5K miles miles now without the ping plus improved seat-on-the-pants acceleration.

    My 2 cents.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Great posts! Thanks for your research. You may want to post this over in the Aftermarket & Accessories message board too.


    Looking forward to the other parts!

    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    buying and using a Fumoto Valve. Nevert have to remove the plug and deal with the mess again.

    www.fumotovalve.com

    Work great, I have them on four of my engines now!
  • spencerkechispencerkechi Member Posts: 7
    Paisan: There is no other dealer in my area. I am stuck with the sorry ***@#$'s in my city. There is no Isuzu rep on a regular route within 200 miles.

    EVERYBODY WHO RESPONDED: As for the Cheveron fix, that is interesting. Describe to me the "Ping" that you heard so I can feel better about whether or not we are describing the same noise: what it sounds like exactly, when you notice it, etc.

    As far as using the Cheveron treatment, doesn't Isuzu frown on additives like that? Do you guys think it would be okay to add something to the motor like SLICK 50? I do not want to void my warranty. I intend to drive this car untilt he 120 miles are up.

    Thanks for your responses.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    They can only void your warranty if they can prove your additive caused the engine damage, then you can have them battle it out with the additive company. The Techron is good stuff I know a few people who use it 1x every 3 months.

    -mike
  • drmpdrmp Member Posts: 187
    It's more like a thinner that disolves the gunk in the fuel system, intake and and combustion chamber. Gunk in the chamber increases compression ratio and cause tendency to knock.

    The knock sounds like tapping a screwdriver to the engine block when accelerating.

    My 2 cents
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    My knock sounded like rocks in a tin can. At about 10,000 miles it happen as I was getting on to an on ramp (med acceleration). It really freaked me out. I only had about1/8 of gas left so I gased up right away hopeing it was just bad gas. But that didn't work. Then at 1/2 tank I put in Super Prem. and the knock was gone. Then I went back to the cheep gas and the knock was back. I then tried the Techron stuff (there are two types, get the one which cleans the injectors and combustion chamber). Now +1,500 miles later of cheepo gas and still no problems. I plan on doing this every other oil change.

    Side Note: I use about 3/4 quart of oil every 2,000 miles, so I would guess that this is where my oil is going (intake and combustion chamber).
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Slick 50 and all oil additives are snake oil, do not use them.

    As to Techron, one of the best fuel addtives going, I have used it for years on multiple cars. I also use Amsoil PI consistently on several engines including the 3.2 L Rodeo. Injector cleaner etc. similar to Techron.

    Oil additves are a different animal and never live up to claims. Use a good synthetic but additves, never. None have ever been proven to work in independent lab tests!!!!!!

    In summer heat engines that have never pinged before may do so and usually higher octane solves that issue but Techron is a cheap cure and cannot do any harm, a really good product.
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    I just got an '01 Rodeo LS 4Wd and have only 300 mi on it. However, it feels like it pulls to the right a little bit. Checked the tire pressure (used one of those cheap gauges - not pen-like though :-) and it seems to be the same, but a little bit higher than the sticker on the door suggests. Does anybody know if it's normal for the vehicle that has not been fully broken in yet ? I was thinking about mentioning that to dealer during an oil-change if it doesn't worsen too much by that time.

    Also, the sticker on the door says that I should put 26psi (cold) which seems rather low for me. What do you think is the normal tire pressure for this truck ? Right now it shows 33psi after about 40 minutes of driving, so I think it'll be about 30-31 psi cold.

    Thanks for any feedback...
  • gt1953gt1953 Member Posts: 7
    Something else that will cause Ping is extremely low humidity. Read that years ago. The dry hot air causes it. Just food for thought. Out west here Arizona it is Very dry compared to the east of mississippi river folks.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    35psi cold. I run 35f/40r in my Trooper which calls for 30/35 IIRC. As for the pulling to the right, it probably needs to have an alignment done by the dealer. I had the same problem with both my Isuzus ('97 rodeo, '00 Trooper) when I first got them. After the dealer alignment, no problems after that.


    -mike

    http://isuzu-suvs.com

  • kduong1kduong1 Member Posts: 7
    I have the same ping problem on my 2000 LS. I 've been using 93 octane since new.
    It pings only during acceleration uphill. I looked into the manual yesterday and it said
    ping during hard accel is normal! Hmmm, I am going to pour two bottles of Techron
    on my next fill up.
  • bobg13bobg13 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 98 Rodeo that when I come to a stop, after I take my foot off the brake or when I start to accellirate after a stop, I hear a thud or almost like u-joint play. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • spencerkechispencerkechi Member Posts: 7
    I get the pinging sound on relatively light acceleration and I live in Kansas (Humid). I am going to buy some of the Chevron stuff this weekend and try it out. I will post my results.
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