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Nissan Pathfinder



  • meca2meca2 Posts: 284
    The 2003 PF will be slightly larger and the rumor is it might have a
    third seat. As for a V8 I hope not this thing uses enough gas as it is!! More leg room for the guests in the rear seat. Steve
  • skips2skips2 Posts: 52

    Congratulations on your purchase of the Bronzed Gray PF with Charcoal leather interior. Thanks for the references for salesmen.
  • li_sailorli_sailor Posts: 1,081
    No - to shift from 4Hi to 2WD or back, you just don't even have to stop. To shift into or out of 4Lo (to 4Hi or 2WD) you have to stop and shift to neutral. You don't have to use reverse in any case (I don't think you have to in the Xterra, either).

    No - the XE does not come with a roof rack...or fender flares. I'm amazed at how these 2 things affect how the PF it's naked or something!

    I notice from your Edmunds travels that you seem to be looking at the Trooper and Escape/Tribute as well as the Nissan SUVs. If you don't mind, since I looked at these same vehicles (I test drove all but the Trooper), I'll mention that the Trooper and Escape/tribute have numerous problems and the reliability is low. The Escape/Tribute, while an excellent handling mini-SUV (better than the PF), is small, can't tow/haul much and is made by Ford (mostly). As far as the Nissans...I think that if you want a reliable, solid SUV with very few bells and whistles, so-so power and so-so handling at a good price, the Xterra is good. If you want a top-notch SUV in the mid-size range with all the bells and whistles (or as many as you want), the PF is the one. JMHO, but I say it as a very happy PF owner.


    BTW - do you sell clothes or are you commenting on Men's swearing habits? :-)
  • li_sailorli_sailor Posts: 1,081
    Went to HD this am (for other reasons) and saw that they had stuff called metal lath for about $4 a sheet...was that what you used for the grill guard?
  • llttfllttf Posts: 1
    I just recently purchased my new 2001 Pathfinder LE with leather seats and am thoroughly enjoying the vehicle! After my recent purchasing experience, I wanted to take a quick minute to throw out my two cents to anyone in DFW looking to purchase a Nissan soon.

    I purchased my Pathfinder from North Texas Nissan in Denton, TX. We were able to *quickly* agree on a price significantly below invoice and a competitive appraisal on my trade-in. The dealership is not as big as some of the other area dealerships, but they made the purchasing experience pleasant (honestly!) and offered the best price and customer service!! Christy Moyers was my sales associate.

    Most of the area dealerships were willing to negotiate close to a reasonable price on the Pathfinder, but none of them were able to beat North Texas Nissan. And, in my opinion based on my recent experience, I would suggest you not waste your shopping time at Bankston Nissan. The prices and service were awful! They offered the highest price well above invoice and were unwilling to budge on the price. The Sales Manager even mocked me for shopping prices around. Very poor service and very noncompetitive!

    For the most part, I just wanted to brag about North TX Nissan, and to say I was able to find some helpful information from this board in the past. Hoping I can do the same for new potential owners...
  • wcrolandwcroland Posts: 26
    I have heard great things about them. I live in Fort Worth, Bankston and Grubbs are both bad, they are too big of dealerships. I purchased mine from West Loop (Fort Worth) with the VPP program (the way to go if you have access to it) an my pathfinder actually came from North Texas Nissan. Grubbs wanted to charge me an extra $500 to find my car, of course I walked out.
  • pondfull5pondfull5 Posts: 53
    Hi Sanandton,
    My cd player was playing in a normal mode. Actually it was on #1 slot when it stop playing. Then the error 2 came on.
    I specifically told the service rep. as per the above. He came back to me within half an hour later to inform me that the radio needs to be replaced. Since they are the expect I hope, I took his word for it. Just like you, Sanandton, I found that strange that the Radio is the cause of the CD problem. Only time will tell.
  • mikej11mikej11 Posts: 1
    In its wisdom, Nissan put the A/C Condenser right behind the front grillwork and bumper. Unfortunately, there are big holes in the grillwork and front bumper and a highway rock came through the opening and punctured my condenser. No A/C! I just had to spend $660 to replace the condenser on a 2001 LE with only 12,000 miles. Does anyone make some screening that can go behind the grill & bumper that will stop a rock but let enough air through to prevent overheating. I can improvise with some screening purchased at Home Depot but thought someone may have found a better solution.
  • highuphighup Posts: 31
    For those that the album viewer and full size window.

    grille...The making of
  • danogdanog Posts: 318
    Well, took the Pathy to Talladega and made it without a scratch!
    It had different feeling without Dale! Just not the same.
    WOW, did I ever mention how great the rear air deflector is? With all the smoke, dust and crap from the race I didn't have to wash it. Ok enough already.
    Wished a race series would startup for SUVs cause this one is strong!

  • meca2meca2 Posts: 284
    highup made a very nice screen for small birds,boulders,ect. NAPA makes a condenser screen slightly larger than window screen that will keep the small sharp stones that will poke a small hole in the aluminum condenser or rad. Steve
  • lspanglerlspangler Posts: 102
    THis weekend I removed the step rails from my '01 SE. Man what a difference, the truck looks "cleaner", and it is so much easier to get into and out of. An added benefit is that it is easier to wash although the tires can throw more crap onto the body now. REmoving the step rails also gives the appearance of the PF being much higher off the ground. Only 6 bolts per side.

    1/ Owner's manual states the washer on drain plug must be replaced after an oil change? Is this really necessary? If so, are these washers any different than those one can pick up real cheap at Home Depot?

    2/ Does doing your own oil changes void Nissan's warranty? I thought I read somewhere you must have paid invoices confirming periodic oil changes?

    3/ Can you do the oil change without putting the PF on ramps? Is there enough clearance? (I have a 36" waist...LOL)

    4/ My new 01 PF SE has approx 1,00 miles now ... many posters here say switching to synthetics should wait until 12,000 miles. Why?

    5/ I am contemplating putting in a K&N air filter. Any experiences, good or bad?

    Thanks to everyone for a great informative and enjoyable board!
  • pathstarpathstar Posts: 201
    I went to Canadian Tire and bought evestrough screen (heavy black painted expanded metal screening approx. 6" X 48" with 5 pieces in the package - openings in the mesh about 1/4"). I mounted them vertially - installed a narrow trough across the bottom just below the top of the bumper as far forward as possible, and installed SS screws in the top rail and fasten with wingnuts so I can remove and clean them. I put two on each side of center, and cut shorter pieces for the center and mounted them with existing threaded holes on the centre support.

    Best news of all, they work! Just found a big dent in one of them (pushed it out with fingers). Must have stopped a big rock. They also "break up" larger insects which then do not plug the rad. See, they have "give" which absorbs the energy of impact of rad. destroying items.
  • pathstarpathstar Posts: 201
    1. I'd buy a washer "just in case", and leave the old one there until it breaks when you remove the plug (it should never happen - my previous 4X4 - Toyota 4Runner had a fibre washer that lasted the 11 years I had the vehicle).
    2. I'm told by the dealer, just keep the receipts for the oil and filters etc. and there should be no problem.
    3. I recommend driving the front wheels onto some sort of ramp - say 4 to 8" height. It's tight under there - just lay on the ground and look under for the "kidney pan" oil pan. If you want to also grease the drive shaft and rotate the tires (as per every second change) jackstands would be a good idea. Good news is they have wonderful "oil channels" built into the front parts for the spilled oil to run out on. Bad news is the 14 bolts you have to remove to get the undertray off (sigh).
    4. Synthetic oil use is a matter of much "discussion". I use Penzoil 10W30 dino. juice.
    5. I installed the K&N last November. So far, so good. Will let the list know if I find any problems, but I -think- the vehicle has more power. Is that a problem? ;-)
  • 1/ How did you secure the upper and lower tracks? Did you have to drill into your PF? Will my local Crappy Tire also have these tracks or U-channels?

    2/ Do you use a oil filter wrench or one of those filter caps which you drive a socket wrench with?

    3/ Do you re-install the tray with 14 bolts each time you change your oil?

    4/ My dealer included the 1st oil change free of charge but suggested this be done at 1,500 km? Is he being premature, anal, all of the above or have other ulterior motives?

    Thanks in advance!
  • lspanglerlspangler Posts: 102
    I bought my PF new in December, I changed the oil at 1,000 miles and switched to Mobil 1, I am not planning to change the oil again until 10,000 miles. I am currently at 5,800 miles and I have added 2 1/2 quarts of oil since the last oil change. Has anybody else noticed any oil consumption when the engine was new or should I be discussing this with the dealer?
  • I have had to toss in a quart of engine oil and I only have 1,000 miles on my odometer!

    Other posters here seem to have noted a similar situation. I intend to ask my dealer about this the next time I am in...not only do you have to pay at the gas pumps but also topping up engine oil!

    P.S. >>> When you guys wax your fine PFinder trucks, do you also wax the plastic-covered bumpers with the same Meguairs or treat them differently???
  • nismofreaknismofreak Posts: 120
    I have had to add .5 quarts to my engine between 3K oil changes when it was less than 6K miles old. With just over 12K miles, I had just over 6K miles on the oil and it was .5 quarts low before I changed it.

    For me, my oil consumption is lessening. I use Pennzoil 5W-30 dino. Haven't gone synth yet.

  • pathstarpathstar Posts: 201
    1. The upper end of the mesh is secured on the existing brace (right in front of the rad). It's a "U" channel, with a large cable inside. Just pull the cable out, drill a hole in an appropriate location, install a 10-32 stainless screw with lock washer and nut - I used a 1" long screw. Then you can use a 10-32 wingnut on the extra length of the screw. The leftmost mesh (facing the front of the vehicle) uses an existing piece (just find a nut to fit on the existing bolt). The lower channel is a siding "finisher" or "starter". I made aluminum brackets that fit over existing bolts on the body beside the radiator (you'll need metric nuts to go on them).
    2. Oil filter - yeah, you may need a wrench to get the factory-installed one off. After that I just use my hands. Filters should be turned on 2/3 of a turn after the seal touches its' mating surface (always oil the seal before installing). If you do that, they will never leak and you can remove by hand. I think Canadian Tire has a wrench that fits the filter (buy a filter and take it there to check fit - I always use factory Japanese filters - better quality).
    3. Yes, so far I have put back every bolt (needed due to the fibre-glass tray weakness). I'm planning to replace the tray and the tubular belt protector (you'll see it when you remove the tray - I had to remove it to get the factory installed filter off) with an Aluminum skid plate held on with the four bolts that hold the belt protector. Yes, there is no after-market or Nissan skid plate available yet - I plan on making my own out of 1/8" aluminum plate.
    4. The dealer is being "traditional". Usually new engines have the oil changed after the first 1000 mi (1600 km) so the "machining debris" (or a least most of it), is removed from circulation. New engines machine themselves to good fit. I guess these days the factory machining is accurate enough that there isn't much engine self-machining going on (my oil was pretty much free of the "metal flake" I've seen in previous vehicles, even after 6000 km). The manual says change after 6000 km, even on the first change. Just watch the level, mine needed a litre after 3000 km. That factory 5W30 went through it like water (summer highway driving). I put in 10W30 and that stabilized it - and I use 10W30 exclusively summer and winter, with no problems. I was loosing oil pressure at idle with the 5W30.
  • wcrolandwcroland Posts: 26
    Yes still use the same Meguiars, no problems at all.
  • We just took delivery on a new '01 PF LE. The owners manual states to use 91 oct. or higher, but our dealer told us the PF runs just fine on 87. Any comment from the group on what they have been using?


  • jmtreetopjmtreetop Posts: 130
    I think I trust the manual more than my dealer, I think I'll stick with 91.
  • pathy57pathy57 Posts: 25
    Why would you not want to change the oil for 10,000 miles. Isnt that risky? Oil is cheap compared to replacing engine or major repairs. I can't imagine changing oil 10 times in 100,000 miles. Not wanting to start fight but just asking. I go by the old saying, pay me now or pay me later.

    My 01 LE used 1/2 quart first 3,000 and after that none between the 3000 mile intervals. I love this engine and oil is cheap for me compared to smoking down the road or burning it up.

    Just my own opinion.
  • jecklesjeckles Posts: 87
    Just wanted to say hello to the group. I bought my first Nissan PF a few weeks ago and have been slowly outfitting it to my requirements...

    I got similar crap from my dealer that "87 was okay unless it pings." Don't believe it! Use the best gas you can afford and you won't be sorry. It only makes a few dollars a year difference.

    I'm pleased with my gas mileage so far. Much better than my Explorer around town (~16.5 mpg). I'm optimistic that it will do better on the highway too.

    I'll do my first oil change early. Then the rest at recommended intervals. I'll probably switch to synthetic at either 3750 or 7500. Has anyone else noticed that dry capacity is ~8qt and oil change capacity is ~5.5? I thought the oil pan looked pretty weird... All the more reason to switch to synthetics!
  • jecklesjeckles Posts: 87
    If you just switched to Mobile 1, you may experience unusuall oil consumption. I completely stopped using Mobil 1 because of this problem, only to find out that it is considered normal in many situations, especially when our PF still have 2 or 3 qt or regular oil in the sump.

    I won't argue with your 10,000 mile oil change, because good oils should go much longer than that (your only a few miles above the standard 7500 mile oil change). Mobile 1 is a pretty decent oil, so you should be fine. Keep in mind that Mobile 1 does not stand behind this "extended" interval (unlike Redline or Amsoil).

    If you continue to have consumption issues, you may want to try some Amsoil. It is the least volatile (evaporates less) oil that I know of on the market. Another issue to consider is the break-in, but I think that is a long shot... modern engines hardly rely on break-in these days.

    I'm not an oil expert, but I love to talk about cars, oils, and anything that improves performance. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions...
  • meca2meca2 Posts: 284
    Ispangler: I started using Valvoline synthetic 5w/30 at about 1500mi and had no consumption at all. Did your engine use any oil the first 1000 mi? Looking at Edmonds syn oil group most people seem to be very pleased with Valvoline syn. Some are having various problems with Mobil 1 even sludge after several thousands miles. Steve
  • kbehnkekbehnke Posts: 60
    My dealer also told me that 87 octane was fine. I wasn't comfortable listening to a salesperson on this issue, so I went back and talked to a mechanic. He gave me the technical answer as to why you can use 87 octane. Of course I didn't understand most of it, but the bottom line is the engine can run on it just fine. He did recommend using premium gas for performance though (e.g. towing, hauling heavy loads, 'using all 240 hp'). I've got 2000 miles on my SE using the 87 octane and haven't noticed any difference. I'm averaging just over 17 mpg with city/hwy driving.

    I guess it all comes down to who you want to listen to. If you have any doubts, go with the premium.
  • lspanglerlspangler Posts: 102
    I don't think I checked the oil in the first 1,000 miles, I just drained it and replaced it. My fiance's VW is also using oil and it has 9,000 miles on it, though hers is slowing down considerably. When the manual states 7,500 for normal driving, that takes into effect a certain dummy factor I guess. They have to figure not everybody will change thier oil at "exactly" 7,500 miles and certain people actually buy that oil for $.79 a quart that they sell in the drug stores. If I'm using a premium oil and not driving very hard, that 7,500 miles is a very conservative figure, if I use Synthetic, it becomes even more conservative. You have to remember that those manuals are written to cover a certain safety factor.

    My next change will probably be to Amsoil at 10,000 miles and then I will probably change the filter at 20k and the oil again at 30k. Then I'll turn it back into the dealer. I would do this if I owned the vehicles also but 3 oil changes over the course of three years sure beats 15 changes every 3,000 miles.

    I've started using Zaino on my black PF and I have to say that it does shine nicely but the best part is how easy it is to use. I can put a coat on the whole truck in 10 minutes after washing it. Let it dry while I vaccum and clean windows and then it wipes right off, no rubbing no residue, no powder.
  • lspanglerlspangler Posts: 102
    I have been using a combination of 87, 89, or premium with no ill effect. The engine has a knock sensor to retard the timing, the engine just makes less power on lower octane. You have to use at least 91 octane for the engine to meet the published specifications.
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