Nissan Quest Engine Problems
My 95 Nissan Quest crankshaft has broken after
the dealer put in a new AC compressor, hose etc.
I've contacted Nissan USA & waiting for them to
contact me back. After researching this problem
I believe the dealer tightened the belts therefore
causing the crankshaft to break, & the dealer's mechanic is responsible.
This is a very documented problem with
this make/year of Quest along with the
Villager van. If anyone has any info
what so ever I would appreciate any input.
I need all the info I can get my hands on, I may
end up in small claims court.
thx
Brolandet
the dealer put in a new AC compressor, hose etc.
I've contacted Nissan USA & waiting for them to
contact me back. After researching this problem
I believe the dealer tightened the belts therefore
causing the crankshaft to break, & the dealer's mechanic is responsible.
This is a very documented problem with
this make/year of Quest along with the
Villager van. If anyone has any info
what so ever I would appreciate any input.
I need all the info I can get my hands on, I may
end up in small claims court.
thx
Brolandet
0
Comments
I believe that I raised the overflow tank higher than the rest of the engine & filled the coolant from there to force all the air out from the bleed hole. Check Steve Cutchen's Villager site link for one possible method. I'd caution against removing the radiator air relief plug as other sites have said it sometimes cracks.
David
the car is bearly worth $3500.00. It has apx 143,000 miles
right now. I'm into the car about $9500.00 since I bought it in 2001. I've printed up everything I can find so far
on this problem with the Quest/Villager & it makes me sick
to have to think that the dealer may get away with this.
If I want a rebuilt engine I have to go elsewhere. Whatever
I do there will be very little warranty ont it.
Brolandet
Thanks,
Carl
This thread may help but it sounds like a different hose than what you are describing:
motonation, "Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems" #2158, 22 Nov 2005 7:18 pm
Steve, visiting host (and '99 Quest owner)
Thanks,
Carl
Steve, visiting host
P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Curcuit
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
Engine running rough seems to be worse when hot. I've seen from other sources that O2 sensor may be a culprit but then if O2 sensor is bad the code should reflect that.
Any help would be appreciated.
Engine looses power drastically; engine knocks whenever an accelerator is pressed and engine temperature rises (not to the dangerous level but higher then normal). But then when the stop & go traffic is freed, the problem goes away.
Anyone with a similar experience what the problem might be? Thanks inadvance for your reply. :confuse:
take time and do it, it save you money.
my 95 quest has 235000 miles and it was hit by the strom KATRINA in 08-29-2005 in New Orleans, I am now in LAS VEGAS.
I have a major problem and are trying to document other possible problems, including the computer failures and engine issues.
My quest - with 80,000 km on it has just had the engine die and they want $15000 to fix!
HELP
:sick:
What issues are having that would cost $15k?
and they don't want to put it under warranty
yep - they extended the warranty to 100k - 60m
Sorry for the long post, but it has the 'Fix' too:
9/16/07:
I hope some one can help me also whith an issue that I have with my 2000 Nissan Quest GXE. I've had it since Oct 2003 when it had only 52K miles on it. Now it has about 113K miles.
Recently, I had my Radiator fan ON all the time while the car/engine is on. Intially, when the problem surfaced, I had a 'plastic burning' smell inside my car. Found a 'burnt' fan relay in the fuse box.
Had the computer scanned and the following code came up: P0325 which according to the computer, it is a 'knock sensor issue'. Now, a mechanic I know told me it would take about 5.2 hours of labor and about $190 for parts.
Does this make sense? I mean, the 'knock sensor issue' causing my fan relay to burn and the radiator fan to be on all the time.
Now he told me that the Radiator fan being on all the time is not a big issue, but that I should change the sensor.
What do you think?
9/10/07:
Hi,
Here is an update on what I've done so far, but it hasn't been fixed yet.
I decided to troubleshoot this issue. From reading here in the web, I learned that this is supposed to be a 2-speed fan (Hi and Lo). Also, I looked at the relay box and learned that 2 relays are for the 'Hi' and one of these was the one the burnt. Also, none of the cables/wires are burned. Any ways, I have installed 2 good relays here and the fan still on. These relays are 'normally open' until 12v are applied. So when I check the car, as soon as I turn the key to the 'accessories' ON, I measure 12 volts at the inputs of the relays and so the fan is suppossed to be on because it closes/completes the circuit. This isn't normal as the car is cool because it was parked all night.
So, this tells that something is sending the signal to always turn the fan on. So, the first thing I supected and changed was the 'water temperature sensor'. This did not fix it. I went ahead and replaced the entire radiator fan assembly. This did not fix the problem. I spent about $300 for this so far.
Now, I talked to my mechanic and we learned that the ECM is what controls the radiator fan, among other things like the AC and engine speed; on this 2000 Nissan Quest. So now he recommends replacing the ECM on this car and says that the part will be very expensive - about $700 bucks. He suggested I find a used one somewhere and he will replace it for me.
So here I go. I will hunt one of these down and see what happens...
Will update later.
9/12/07:
Hi,
So, I finally had my 2000 Nissan Quest scanned by the Nissan Dealer in my area. They charge $135.00 just for scanning the computer (ECM) and reflashing it if it needs it. I told them about the issue I am having with my car and about the parts that I have already replaced.
They didn't find anything with the scan and told me that the computer was not sending any codes. So, they looked at all the wiring that leads to the ECM and said that there was a 'short' somewhere. When they verified that all the wires were OK, they went ahead and removed the ECM. They opened the ECM and found two burn wires/contacts. They then told me that for sure the ECM needs to be replaced. They gave me a quote fro $1,500.77 just for the new ECM. I was very shocked.
So I told them 'No thanks' and asked them to put my car back together. The car is now back with me and it still has the radiator fan issue.
So, I did a search on the web and found a 'used parts' site where you can request any auto parts and they send your request all over to see if anyone is selling it. I got back 10 emails from several places that say they have my ECM. The cheapest is $150.00 to the most expensive of $499.00.
I opted to buy it from a place in Sacramento California for about $175.00 with a 6-month warranty. It is called sunrisenissan.net and they specialize in selling used nissan (and Kia) parts. Well, let's see how this turns out. I will post once I get the part replaced/installed.
10/01/07:
Hi,
Just came back to inform everyone that my "Radiator Fan Issue" has been fixed.
From my previous post, I/we narrowed it down to the ECM. I received the part about 10 days ago and I finally had a chance to change it this weekend. The one thing that the 'salvage' place told me was that it might need to be reprogrammed. But that's fine. I was more worried about getting the correct part. This is why: The dealer will give you a part number which really is not the same part number on the ECM it self. Most places that sell these 'used' ECMs want the part number that's on the ECM to match it 100%. I didn't know what this number was except that it starts with: MECM-XXX-XXX. So that's why I felt I took a chance ordering the used ECM without knowing the part number.
Any ways, because I didn't know where exactly the ECM in the car was, I asked my mechanic about it. He told me it was under the dashboard, almost to the left of the front-passanger airbag. I told him I wanted to see the Original ECM in my car so that I can compare the part number with the used one.
When I got home, I took the glove box and some other 'pannels' off to see if I could see or access the ECM. I was able to see it, but could NOT see the numbers. So, I decided to remove it my self. Note, you must remove a metal bar that sits infront of it. It's not hard. Once you do that, there are only 2 screws holding the ECM to the car. Once you unscrew these 2 screws, you have to unscrew the one screw that holds the connector (and wires) to the ECM. Once the connector is out of the way, you have to 'wiggle' the ECM and pull it out at an angle (with its rear lifted up and its front pulled down).
Since I got it out, I compared the part numbers and most numbers matched. Only 4 numbers, which were at the end of the sequence, did not match. (I don't have those numbers with me but I have them in my car. I will post them when I get them). So I decided to try/install this used ECM to see, not only if it fixed my problem, but if my car would start. Once I screwed the connector on, I tried it by turning the 'accessories' ON. It worked. The Fan would not come on at all. I then turned the ignition/car ON and it did start fine. The engine ran good. So, I decided to leave the used ECM in and put everything else back together. I drove my car for a few miles and it ran fine. The radiator FAN problem was definitely fixed.
I then took a 150 mile trip and the car ran great. It is still running great. The radiator fan is working the way it should. It turns ON only when the water temperature rises.
Here is the Part Number that’s on the ECM:
Original P/N:(Went bad -wires Radiator Fan 'ON' burnt inside ECM):
_______PPZ_________
_______YFCD________
Used P/N(bought from Salvage place - now installed and works good):
______PPZ_________
______YFCD________
MECM-C716 A1 0609
Notice that the last 4 characters are different (9Z09 vs 0609). In my case, this didn't matter as my problem was fixed and m
Because of the my long post, the Part Number information was not posted. Here it is for those who need it.
Here is the Part Number that’s on the ECM:
Original P/N:(Went bad -wires Radiator Fan 'ON' burnt inside ECM):
PPZ
YFCD
MECM-C716 A1 9Z09
Used P/N(bought from Salvage place - now installed and works good):
PPZ
YFCD
MECM-C716 A1 0609
Notice that the last 4 characters are different (9Z09 vs 0609). In my case, this didn't matter as my problem was fixed and my car is running good.
As far as PPZ and YFCD, I don't know what those mean/are, but they matched.
Good luck to all of you who have this problem. Let me know if I can be of any assistance here.
BL
Power of internet and sharing information with strangers. I have really enjoyed reading your step by step process troubleshooting your car. I came to figure out where ECM was for my villager and I found your information useful. Thanks.
thanks,
jeff
The knock sensor is buried pretty good and just replacing that could run $500 to $700. Knock sensors run ~$175 and labor is 5.2 hours.
Please report back on how it goes.
And my indy mechanic wasn't too impressive either and I doubt that the dealer would have charged much more.
distributor was the problem after getting warmed up and yet would run good when first started cold. I found the bearing in the distributors after the lubricant wears off from age and miles get hot and making the distributor get hot and this being the problem.
Some oil down the distributor shaft say ever 50,000 I feel will help, but this is a problem and a new distributor with this design will we not have the same problem at a later date once the bearing lubricant wears off?
driving because of the bearing failure on the inside of the distributor from age and miles. After driving I put my hand on the side of the distributor and found it more hot than the rest of the engine is how I found the problem. You can order a new distributor
complete on Ebay Motors for much less, and changing out is no problem if you mark the rotor button on the old one before removable and set the new one in the same.
I have 2 CEL code and my other code is engin misfire. It does not specify which cylinder but random misfire is detected.
I've been following this thread, (thanks to the board, it send you e-mail when new posting is entered) and distributor problem does not triger ramdom misfire code. Only knock sensor. Besides my Quest is running rough even when engin is cold (althogh this hard to notice because when cold engin is running fast).
Your input would be appreciated. Thanks.
[email protected]
1. engin running rough when engine is hot.
2. CEL code of knock sensor
I want to be sure if the distributor is the villien for engin running rough before replacing the distributor. With 180K miles on my 97 Quest, I am pretty sure the baring on the shaft is out. Does CEL code of random cylinder misfire also come on if the distributor is bad? I wanna know.
Efitzgerald posted following problem and solution:
Started fine and ran fine until it got warm, then it sputtered/misfired and the rpm would dance. Solved this problem by titening ground wire of ECM. Also posed that small photo sensor inside the distributor could cause the problem too.
chos posted following problem:
For the past 7 years I have had the problem that it dies all of a sudden in the middle of the road. This only happens in summertime heat and after I have driven it for a few hours. The problem has gotten progressively worse, as in more frequent and after shorter and shorter periods of driving. After 30 minutes on the side of the road it cranks right up and I drive away.
denham posted following problem and solution:
Runs good when cold, when engine gets hot or well warmed up can’t speed up, misses and cuts out. There are no codes showing except knock sensor. Both efitzgerald and denham agrees and denham has solved this problem by replacing the distributor assembly.
Auto_Dummy posted following problem:
Engine running rough and when stopped at a light you can hear the rumbling 'brrrrrr" sound but when I put it in neutral as I wait for the light to change the rumbling subsides and the engine runs smoother. Now I just got finished having to have it serviced to pass a smog test and 2 codes came up one of which was the knock sensor but they didn't replace it cause they said that it was not the reason for the CEL to come on, so they didn't...they just replaced what they called a EGRC-BPT valve and it passed the smog test.
steve posted following problem:
Threw a knock sensor code around 125,000 miles. Wound up replacing it and three injectors. I don't really trust that the indy mechanic knew what he was doing with the injectors. It's running and getting the same mpg as before but it's not as smooth as it was before. It was barely running after the CEL came on though; didn't matter if it was hot or cold. Missing, cutting out and you could smell the unburned gas coming out of the exhaust.
Mikek847 posted following problem:
I have 97' Quest GXE with 150K miles
Problem 1: Eperiencing engine running rough. At times the CEL light comes on with following two codes:
P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Curcuit
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
Problem 2: Summer time when outside temperature is high, and I've driven for more then an hour. Especially on the freeway sitting in traffic jam with an air on. Engine looses power drastically; engine knocks whenever an accelerator is pressed and engine temperature rises (not to the dangerous level but higher then normal). But then when the stop & go traffic is freed, the problem goes away.
eye and coil do not work once they get hot. You can find a distributor on Ebay.
Get back with me!
My wife has 137,000+ miles on this van and all of the O2 sensors are original so I don't mind changing more than one of the O2 sensors if necessary to clear the CEL. I noticed that Bosch recommends changing O2 sensors every 100,000 miles. Thanks!