Jeep Cherokee

stever

It's just normal ebb and flow; now that the days are getting shorter people will be on their computers more too (actually, everyone is posting from work, right? LOL).

The new Jeep Patriot is taking some of the interest away from the classic Cherokee too, and then there's the Dodge Nitro concept that's based on the Cherokee platform that the media is following. Not to mention the Compass and Commander grabbing headlines.

Cherokee owners aren't getting any respect. :-)

Check out the Jeep Owners Club too.

Steve, Host

canoeman

My 1984 Cherokee will not get out of 4WD. The lever moves into the position, I have adusted the slack, there is oil in the transfer case but I cannot get it out of four-wheel. Are there any suggestions that do not involve removal? This vehicle is so old I don't think I want to get involved in removal. The age and mileage (199,800) may be the problem; I can live with that. I just want to get one more canoe trip out of it (this weekend and the kids are excited!).

canoeman

ntp2

Did you ever find the cause? I've got the same symptoms on my 98 Wrangler. I start driving down the road and it goes into the shake mode. Re-starting it seems to be the only way to get it to stop. A mechanic friend of the family took a look and can't figure out what;s going on. Driving me nuts! ntp2

mullins87

If you can't figure out the T-case problem, and other than broken/loose linkage I have no idea. But you can just remove the front driveshaft. Unless you're locked into 4-Low, driving it like that won't hurt anything.

canoeman

I just got on this forum and I noticed your problem. It is old but if you have not fixed it yet you may need this system soon. As another person said, I think it is a problem with the vacuum line that controls the switch that shifts the air between defrost and vent. You will need to trace it out to the engine and verify that it has not come loose from the source of the vacuum. If that is not the case, see if the line is being pinched. I had this problem for the longest time and finally found out the the line had shifted and the hood hinge was pinching it when the hood was closed!

Canoeman

condor327

What a week for rain in the northeast...on Friday night on my way home from work, almost every time my wipers completed a cycle the radio would be interrputed (i.e. goes off for a second, then comes back on) on the downstroke of the cycle (insent P-funk reference here). Could this be a fuse/relay/alternator thing, or a sign of a weakening battery? When I bought it used, it had no owners manual in it, so I don't know where to look for the proper fuse (or if the wipers and raido share one). Any suggestions? Thanks.

mencer525

Any ideas/suggestions on this one yet? I have a 96 Cherokee Sport that has the same problem.

stever

You may want to try the Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy discussion too.

Steve, Host

laurim

I have a 98 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4.0L that does the same thing. (Don't get pulled over for speeding until you have the $$ to get it fixed. ) It's not a loose wire in the dash. I've spent the better part of the last year doing research on this since I have the same exact problems. Only difference is that sometimes the guages have a tendency to "wave" at me. (meaning they bounce up and down) I also get to watch ALL of the guages die...or just the Tach...or just the spedo... OY, it's dizzying. This also gives off some faulty error message to the computer about airbag problems. Anyhow, I have discovered that the problem is actually condensation on the backside of the dash unit. Corrosion if you will and it takes a professional to fix it. OR you can go out and spend the $900 that it will cost just to purchase the new unit and then put it in yourself. Just an FYI to take note of is that when this happens it locks up your mileage as well. There is a TSB/Recall out there for the Airbag Control Module (somewhere) I wish you luck in getting a dealership to admit to it.

x50374

I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport that I have had for a year now. The other day I got gas and drove 3 miles home. 10 minutes later I came back out and re-started my jeep. At the point the jeep shook when I turned it on and then the check engine light has stayed on.
Anyone have any Ideas?
I've driven 60 miles on it already and still need it to get to and from work.
Please Help! :sick:

dancerman

Could try tightening gas cap. Remove and blow or wipe seal surfaces clean. Reinstall with minimum 3 clicks. Drive a day or two and see if light goes out. If that's not it. You need the stored codes to diagnose.

scottinsd

I have a 2001 JGC Laredo and the check engine light came on this morning. I used the ignition ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON sequence to get the code and it showed (in the digital odometer readout) P 0161 followed by "done." Does anyone know what this means? I found codes for older models but not for 2001 models. I also called the dealer and they told me that it was probably a loose gas cap, and if I tighten the cap the light will probably turn off after a couple of trips. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

mullins87

Did you recently fill the gas tank? Both mine and my wife's will do that. I'm not 100% certain, but I think that code is for an "Evap System Leak".

scottinsd

I did recently fill the tank, but when I checked the gas cap it was tight. I retightened it, and the check engine light is still on. I found another forum covering this topic and it has a list of all the codes and descriptions. I assume they are correct, but I don't know where they came from. Take a look if you are interested.
http://www.usjeeps.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=21590&highlight=&sid=c566c83b7d938875a644b98e- e904607c

mullins87

"P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 2) "

That is the code set on your computer? I checked several other websites just to confirm what your website said. Have you checked all your fuses?

tanksgt

I have a 2000 cherokee sport with 121k on it. recently the rpms would jump between 250 and 500 rpms while driving at a sustained highway speed ( 65-75). When this happens I do not lose speed, but it will shut off the cruise control and will not let me re-engage it. I have replaced my TPS and my MAP at the suggestion of a mechanic. The problem still exists and seems to be getting worse, it is doing it at lower speeds now (45-55). Anybody see this before? Thanks

jaguar69

I have a question concerning the a/c on a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Classic. I am getting small bits of black plastic blowing out of the defrost ducts. I also have more air coming out the defrosters than anywhere else no matter how I set the contols. Any one had such a thing happen to them.

jaguar69

I just bought my first Jeep and it has a funny almost whine in the transmission when it first starts to move and get alot quieter when I drive, does not go away. I was told this is normal and frankly I have heard a couple of others driving down the street that seemed alittle loud.

Is this normal?
have 4.0 inline 6. 4 speed auto trans. 68000 miles.

mullins87

Have you checked the torque convertor? Sounds like it could be unlocking while driving.

mullins87

Mine has a distinct whine to it as well. I'm not too concerned about it. Cherokee's don't have a lot of sound insulation in them, so you hear near every noise the engine and tranny makes. I wouldn't be too concerned about it. If you can replace a tranny by yourself, you can pick up a replacement on ebay for well under $500.

mullins87

I'd bet something has happened to the door inside the HVAC system. That door controls where the air is sent. Either the control tab has broken off, or the door itself has come apart. Either way, it's a fun job to get to that part to fix it. It's located behind the glove box inside all that duct work.

debbgrr

drove my 96 jeep got it hot drove about 5 miles hot what uselly happens to the engine, it misses idles rough geting worse help thanks

vixey1968

finally have all the parts to put my tranny back together on my 1985 Chief, however, I can't seem to find the specs for the torque needed on the front pump bolts. Any one have that info?? could really use it...would like to drive my truck tomorrow for the first time in 2 1/2 years and this is all that is holding us up...thanks in advance!!

mullins87

The head warps. Not good! :sick:

With the head warped, the head gasket has probably blown. That will cause those symptoms.

billfan

My neighbor had that problem. If the front and rear tires don't match either type, or amount of tread, it will cause this condition. When he put new tires on the car, the problem fixed itself.

triplechop

Hi folks!

This is my first post on here, I'm in Edinburgh in Scotland and I'm thinking of getting a 1994 Chrokee 4.0 Limited straight six. One I've looked at has 95,000 miles on it, but has had a LPG conversion, so I would get the equivalent of 50mpg.

What should I be looking out for if I buy it? Any advice you have for me will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Triplechop

kahliiy

We have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee and two mths ago we had the radiator and temperature control valve changed due to blockage. Temp ran high again and mechanic said we had a hole in one of the hoses. Everything seemed ok for a while. Now especially if its really cold out (first off no heat), you start the Jeep, the oil pressure rises to max and then major gas fumes. Turn off, turn on until the oil pressure stays around 40 then start and its fine. Today went to start and same thing happened except it wouldn't start and seemed like it was flooded. Waited a while and waited until sun warmed up jeep. Started, sputtered and ran ok except when you had to stop then it acted like it wanted to shut off. Hit gas and it was fine. Took it to the garage, checked it on the machine and its fine?????? Checked with dealer and no idea. Could it be heater core?, Temperature control sensor, crack in head, gasket????? still no heat. Help please...

dancerman

I doubt it's the heater core. Did you actually take it to the dealer for check out? Do you get a check engine light? No codes? Seems like something got messed up when you had the radiator replaced. Check for loose electrical or vacuum connections.

slobby

I have started having some electrical problems with my 01 xj. blower motor, htd seats, ect...little things that have fixed themselves. those are my favorite. recently, when driving 65-75mph on the expressway my cherokee hesitates. almost like the fuel shuts off, but only for a moment. this has happened 3 times in the last month. before i get hit by the dealer for 80 bucks to diagnose a new ecu, has anyone had any similar experiences and heard of a cure.

strykerod

I bought my 1994 2wd Jeep cherokee country ed. 3 years ago with 86,000 miles on it. I have been diligently changing the oil and rotating the tires every 3000-3500 miles. Last major tune-up was done 1.5 years ago. I plan to keep my jeep for 2-3 more years. It now has 132000 miles on it. What's the next step to maintain it? How often do I have a major tune up i.e. change of spark plugs, air/fuel filter, other fluids? Can I use synthetic oil 5w/30 for this coming winter? Thanks for your help!

stever

Check out the Edmunds Maintenance Guide while waiting for responses in here.

Steve, Host

dancerman

I'd do the major tuneup every 30,000 miles. Auto transmission filter/fluid and differential lube every 50,000 miles. Coolant system flush every two years. I'd stick with whatever oil you have been using. Your Jeep has been doing fine for 11 years so why mess with it. Keep changing the oil every 3000 miles. Synthetic oil is expensive and offers no guaranteed benefit.

clarkkent

I'm looking to go from a 91 Cherokee to a 2000 or 2001.

Do any standard Cherokees have heated seats?

Thanks, CK

mainexj

driving light tips

Hi,

Have a 2001 Cherokee Sport and want to install some good driving lights (moose up here in the dark can be scary). Probably on the front bumper, but wondered what you guys could recommend? I don't want to put in some super babies that require all kinds of space and extra electrics, just a relay and switch for me if possible. Maybe the Hella 500's?

What have you used, and how did you mount them?

Thanks!

mullins87

Don't know about your lighting laws. But if you live WAY out in the boonies, install a light bar on the roof rack. I have two 150 watt pencil beams mounted in the lower corners on my Wrangler. I can see deer from nearly a mile away when I have those things on.

bleujeep

Hey! did you ever find out what that is??? I have a 2001 classic and it does the SAME thing-drives me crazy! You can't hear it from the outside though-only in the jeep and you are correct-it is when it is wet, cold or my heat is on and doesn't last but 15 minutes or so AND it is at stop lights. If I put it in neutral it goes away-or turn my heat off (depending on what is going on at the time).
Just let me know please!

bleujeep

Hello-I am so glad I found this discussion! I have a 2001 jeep cherokee classic-other than the rattling noise when cold, wet or the heat is on....I have two other un-dentifiable noises going on.
When I have the heat on- the car while in idle (when it is not rattling) makes this strange noise that sounds like breathing~ it is a long ssssssssssss noise, then it sounds like it is being let out.
I thought maybe it was a vacuum leak-but can't find any of those........
the other noise is an occasional sharp CRACK seemingly behind my speedometer area or under it or something. It almost sounds like a rock or something hitting at the base of my windshield. Obviously it is underneath...but it happens about 1-2 times a week when I am going over a bump or something. It is like something is loose and it pings off of the body somewhere in there....
any thoughts on either of these strange noises???
:confuse:

selly

I have a 98 Cherokee Sport. It's been down for weeks now, due to finance problems. It cranks over but doesn't want to start. Had a bud put a scan tool on it, but doesn't want to talk to computer. Voltmeter and Fuel guage doesn't work, but I have power to everything else. Very puzzled. Hope it isn't an expensive fix. HELP!!!

mullins87

Have you tried disconnecting the PCM, cleaning the connections, then reconnecting it?

ksb1111

I saw your post on the web and I am having the exact same problem. I know they just replaced the Catalytic converter, and I am going to try the fuel filter next. If that doesn't work, would you mind telling me what two wires were loose? Maybe I could check that connection first and save myself the time and money for the fuel filter.

sea3

Please, if anyone can help me locate a Pilot Bearing Support Housing, part # 4778808 for a 1995 Jeep Cherokee Country Turbo Diesel 5 speed from Spain, I would be so thankful. Dam/Chrysler has not been of any help as this is an export part. I have searched the web, even Spain, but do not speak Spanish so am stymied. Any advice would be so appreciated. Thank you, Sea

shadow83blk

Had a similar problem. Mine hesitated so bad on the highway it downshifted. Had the injectors flushed and it worked fine for a lil while. It was very intermittent. Took it to my guy and he drove it for a few days and it was fine. He thought that the fuel pump may be acting up so I told him to change it ($300). I trust this garage (which is rare for me). In changing the pump he also changed the filter (again) since there was a lot of sediment in the tank and flushed the injectors REAL good (again). He did say that the first time they were very dirty. It has ran fine ever since.

I would suggest a bottle of Techron/Chevron Techroline injector cleaner for a few tanks of gas and see if it smooths out. If not have the injectors professionally flushed, it's not that expensive. Also for good measure change the disti cap and rotor and even the plug wires. That is the first thing that I do when my 4.0 starts acting tempremental. Not a big $ loss if it desn't fix it.

Always put injector cleaner in the tank about every 10 fill-ups. I buy a few bottles when on sale. Also run Chevron once in a while. It has techroline which is a very good cleaner.

Now I have a few floating lifters but after 215k miles I can't complain. I'll do a top end for $400 parts and get another 200K miles easily. I may even rebuild the engine for around $800 parts (since I just put a 33k mile rear axle in it) and get a million miles outta her. I love this Jeep!!

shadow83blk

If it cranks and doesn't even try to fire try changing the crank sensor. Common problem.

sbyrum

I have a 98 Cherokee Classic and have had problems with brakes since the year 2000. Old rotors, new rotors, turned or unturned - it doesn't matter. Dealership, or other repair shop - they all say they will fix the problem - and they do - for about 2 weeks - then the squeal comes back - sounds like metal on metal. I get tired of constantly taking the vehicle back for adjustments, so I end up going someplace else with the same results. Also, my front wheels are constantly turning brown - looks ugly - what's up with that? I am a female that knows nothing about cars so I feel like I'm always being taken advantage of everytime I try to get these brakes done. I need your expertise - PLEASE HELP!!

mullins87

Back a few years ago, asbestos was taken out of brake pads and shoes, for obvious reasons. While this might be good for our health, it did absolutely NOTHING for our brakes. The material used to replace the asbestos is considerably noisier and does create a lot more brake dust. If the squeal you mention is a very high pitched noise, then it is normal. That noise drives me nuts too! The garages are probably putting really "soft" pads on your Jeep to help with the squeal and that is what's causing your front wheels to turn brown. That is nothing more than brake dust, however it will destroy the wheel finish if left on there for too long. By too long, I mean if you only wash it once or twice a year. The squeal can be fixed by applying an anti-squeal compound to the back of each brake pad when assembling the front brakes. Some compounds are in a tube and you spread them on, others are in a spray can. I have used the spray can stuff many times and it seems to work well for me.

I mentioned "soft" brake pads. There are differing performance levels of brake pads. The "soft" pads tend to offer better braking performance, less noise, but at the expense of how long they will last and the large amount of brake dust created. The "hard" pads tend to last longer, create much less dust, but at the expense of performance and more noise. I tend to stay in the middle.

seansjeep

I noticed the rear O2 sensor had been ripped out of the cat. converter. SO I quickly replaced, now it's shorting high. I've visually checked the wires and harnesses for faults, but no luck. I have also noticed a hole in a vaccume line connecting boot where it intersects with the line controlling the heating vents inside. Would this be a possible reason for the shortage? Check engine light is in fact on at this time. And I just also had replaced the battery for the old one died. Besides the light, it runs fine, but at times it does not respond to throttle and jerks a bit. :confuse:

wheatley1

Hello everyone,
I have a problem that hopefully someone can help me with, being that the mechanic couldn't. In the morning when I start up my Jeep (92 Cherokee 4.0L HO) it runs decent, but if I drive for say five minutes, shut it off for a minute or two, and then start it back up it will idle from 1500 down to about 600 and when I hit the gas peddle to kick the idle up there is no change. It's almost like I am not touching the gas at all, so then I floor it and the RPMs will gradually build and there is a backfiring sound in the header. After the RPMs reach 3000 exactly then it breaks loose and everything is hunky dorry again until I shut it off and have to redo the whole process again. I was thinking that it could be the Idle air control valve, but I am not sure. If anyone can help I would sure appreciate it. Thank you.

unekgal

Hi, I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee Sport, and I was wondering what type of hitch I should invest in, and towing capacity. Not towing anything huge...jetski, trailor, hitch carrier w/deer, cargo, etc.

seansjeep

Similar strange things have also been occuring on my '98. Less the back-firing that you noted. Is the idle air control valve you described apart of your vaccume line system? In my last post I found a hole in one of the boots along the vaccume line. That may be a problem contributing to my project and perhaps to yours.Wouldn't hurt to check those out. You stated also that the RPM's score low when you idle or are driving at low RPM's. I have the exact same thing happening and also the same about hitting the gas and..well no gas...or perhaps it's too much gas and not enough air...check your mixture. I have had a mechanic look at mine free of charge and my mixture is rich. I am going to be changing all my ingnition and firing hardware shortly. I will post and let you know if I notice a difference. All of this could just be a bad plug or cracked cap or even a bad O2 sensor. Good luck!

wheatley1

Thanks buddy, I am going to disassemble the throttle body tommorrow and clean the idle air control motor (which is attached to the throttle body, but I don't know if it's directly inline with the vacum system), thtottle position sensor, and the blade on the throttle body itself and see if that works.