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Jeep Cherokee
This topic is a continuation of Topic 1254....
Jeep Cherokee SE Sport. Please continue these
discussions here. Thanks!
Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
Jeep Cherokee SE Sport. Please continue these
discussions here. Thanks!
Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
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Steve
www.rustysoffroad.com
$24000 for a bad transmission.
84 miles, yes eighty-four.
- Gear shift rattles in Neutral unless the clutch is pushed in.
- Strong lurch into 2, 3, and 4th.
- "Chunk" is the sound of gears catching
The dealer has the shop Norman come take a test drive with me. <'Kunk' he shifts> "I don't hear anything wrong <'Kunk' he shifts again and we lurch>.
Back in the shop he shows me the computer saying there are no factory warnings about this model. "Then why don't you look up 2001, instead of 2000 or 1999?" I ask.
"They're the same." the dealer shop guy replied, "This is the way Jeeps drive, this is their standard."
JEEP, your standard sucks.
Next time my money goes for better engineering, diligent workers, and repairman who are of Asian decent.
4 weeks, 3000 miles I like mine really well. No problems to mention, kinda thristy, drives like a truck. Exactly what I was looking for. The price and utility makes the Cherokee perfect in my book. In-laws have a Grand Ltd. and it's nice, but feels more like a luxo car than a utility vehicle. If someone wants a urban SUV, take your pick there's plenty to choose from. Not many useful SUV's out there. I don't think the quality issues would be anything a scout or bronco wouldn't have. Anymore when people complain about quality it seems to be rattles, fit & finish, and cupholders in the wrong spots:)
The I6 is very truckish. Good torque, good pickup. I haven't done much off-roading yet, but what I've done the Jeep pretty much laughed it off.
I paid $20,600 plus tax for mine:4X4, 4-door, auto, alloys, tow pkg, fogs, tint. Can't beat that IMHO. I'm normally a toyota guy, but for that price I'd be looking at a 4 year old 4runner with 50K miles.
For a link to the article, check out the Liberty messgae board.
It might get batten a little, I am not planing on beatting on it to hard because I am paying for it my self.
Please, help and tell me if I should buy it, or forget about it.
Thanks
Mark
At 6', I'm bumping my head anytime I run over a stone in the road. This is an American car? The XTerra had head room to spare. But I got a 2001 Cherokee with a bad transmission, NO headroom, and crooked dealership repairmen who won't acknowledge any problems until the warranty runs out.
Then I see some other people considering buying Ford. I have three family members working for Ford, including my father. I wouldn't even consider buying one of these overpriced, poorly engineered crap traps if I could get it at cost. And I can.
I can't fathom why people are willing to spend MORE money to buy domestic. The pricing alone is an indication of the inefficiency.
Wouldn't you like to spend your money on a car built by someone who put in at least 10% the effort you did to earn it?
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I'm well over 6' and fit fine with the seat reclined somewhat. I like to stay as far away from that explosive steering wheel as possible! Of course if you're tall with short arms that could be a problem;)
This company (Daimler Chrysler) is turning its back on its customers! I'm one of many who has this issue with a 1997 and ewer Jeep Cherokee! I wish we could get them to own-up to the defect in the 1997 design change that makes this happen!
If you have any ideas let me know! I've even gone through arbitration. A guy pulled up in a new Dodge truck, took the side of the dealer (characteristic of the vehicle) and blew me off. I have friends with Cherokees and no problems!
This Jeep has been out of service over 25 days in the first year of ownership. I have had many problems with it! Can you say Lemon! Now the "Zone Rep" dances around the issues to avoid the Lemon law!
This issue (vibration) is varied in when it happens and how bad it is. I have never seen a Jeep or any vehicle vibrate like this!
Is it any wonder why Daimler Chrysler operations are suffering now? Treat your customers with a little care and you will grow. Blow them off and you will fail!
Bill
1. When I am accelerating up an incline at perhaps 40 or 45mph or more, the trans. feels like it's slipping. There is an intermittent "thud" that feels and sounds like its coming from either the trans or front diff., and the engine stays steady at about 1500 rpm when I try to accelerate - basically, it acts like it won't downshift as it climbs. "flooring" the pedal will get it to finally downshift and accelerate properly, but this is strange. Could this be a trans. problem, a front diff. problem...?
2. It idles (very) poorly in very humid or rainy weather. I live in Baltimore, so this occurs often. Any suggestions? Premium gas didn't alleviate it - perhaps this is one of those "quirks" Jeep owners must deal with.
Thanks in advance.
the newer (97+) cherokees, especially with upcountry suspension (becuase you are sitting about 1" higher than a stock cherokee) are prone to these driveline vibrations. this is caused because in 97, the NP231 transfer case was changed, and in effect is longer than the older (<97') transfer cases. this longer t-case causes the driveshaft to be at more of an angle (because the distance from t-case to rear diff is now shorter) and causes the vib's you are talking about. the dealer should try dropping the transfer case down to lessen the angle, this isnt the best fix b/c now you have less ground clearence, they also have to make sure your linkages etc. are not effected and adjust as necessary. if you to www.jeepsunlimited.com there are many discussions about this problem. when lifting a newer cherokee, these vibs can be severe. the permanent, correct fix is something called a slip yoke eliminator (SYE). your driveshaft "slips" in and out of the transfer case as the suspesion moves up and down to maintain the proper driveshaft length. a SYE fixes the driveshaft in the transfer case and gives you a new driveshaft that has a slip joint built in. the SYE kit shortens the output shaft of the t-case and lengthens the driveshaft to stop the vibs. to much info probably but i hope this helps you understand what is going on. take it to a dealer and demand that this is a problem that needs to be taken care of, they certainly have heard it from other owners and can fix it with a transfer case drop.
I thought the four wheel drive was good until I drove my girlfriend's Bravada with SmartTrac, Jeep's little 4x4 can't compare to that on snowy urban streets, offroad yes, urban driving no way. I will never buy a manual 4x4 again.
It heats up quick and has good A/C but again ,the blower is too loud and you need it on high on hot days.
Overall, I think the Cherokee sport is a poorly built and designed SUV, it is more suitable for teens and college student or for a second vehicle. I think Chrysler does poor with their customers as the dealerships are cold and greedy. If you are looking at the Jeep Cherokee Sport vs. other SUV in the price range, drive is for more than the 10 minutes the dealer gives you.
BMW, I find I/I 4WD better in the snow than full-time, I've certainly never gotten stuck in snow with part time 4WD...
Then there's the cost factor, I don't believe the Jeep and Old are in the same ball park. Mine idled fine (a little high - but smooth) in the mornings. I was able to get 22MPG with my '98
I am looking to buy a new car and am trying to keep an open mind about it. The thing is I realllllllly like the looks of the original Cherokee. I simply like it. I have a '98 Classic in mind that goes for $16,500, it was a leased vehicle. Is this price reasonable? Also, advise on any of these points please:
1. Can the 4WD system be driven on half ice/half dry pavement, I've heard that the lower-type 4WD system MUST NOT be driven on ANY dry pavement or it will DESTROY the differentials and drive train. Selectrak can do it but Commandtrak MUST NOT. Any word on this?
2. The rotors warp and need replacement -- is this true?
3. What is the classic "electrical problem" Jeeps have had?
1) The difference between the Command Trac (part time only) and SelecTrac (full time or partime) is that the Selectrac includes a differential in the transfer case. This permits all 4 wheels to travel different distances when turning. In part time mode, the front and rear drive axles must turn at the same rate, so 1 wheel in front and 1 in the back must also turn at the same rate. When driving in a straight line, this isn't a problem since all 4 wheels are turning at the same rate anyway. But when turning, the front end will start hopping around trying to force the outer wheels to turn at the same rate. This does cause an exceptional amount of wear on everything and can possibly damage stuff.
In general its not a good idead to drive in part time mode while on pavement that doesn't allow the tires to slip. However, half ice would probably be ok, so long as you keep half the vehicle on the ice to allow the tires on that side to slip when necessary.
2) In 70xxx miles on my '97, I don't recall having the rotors replaced. I think I've had them turned once or twice, but thats about it. Others may have different experiences.
3) Classic "electrical problem"? Hmmm. In '97, (the most recent redesign), they did change the design of the wiring harness, so maybe they were having some sort of a shorting problem in prior years. I seem to recall something about the dash lights goin out. Other than that, there's been a recall on the fuel sending unit (which has been known to read 1/4 full when actually empty) and another recall on something for the airbag (inertia senser I think). Thats about it. I haven't been having any "electrical problems".
I'm thinking of buying a '98 Sport from a dealer. I've been driving Cherokees my entire driving career. Parents had a '79, then an '86, then my mom got a '92 along with my dad's '86, and now they are still driving the '92 and they replaced the '86 with a '96. (Oh and then there was my '85 CJ-7)
Anyway, I'm looking a '98 Sport. 2 door. Crank winows, and manual locks. I only ask this as a curiousity, but how difficult is it to retro-fit power locks if I wanted to install an alarm with keyless entry? Does Jeep have the wiring in there already or would I have to string my own to the fuse box?
Thanks
(Spoiled with a fully loaded Integra GS-R for the last few years)
Any other opinions on a 98 Cherokee Classic from this Cherokee community?
I would appreciate opinions on the virtues of part-time v. full time 4 wheel.
In the past I have driven an AWD V8 Explorer and an AWD Lexus rx 300 (both parents' vehicles) so I may be a bit spoiled when it comes to 4wd.
Command-Trac is part time only and can be used only when offroad, on snow, etc, not on dry pavement.
On the other hand, unless you get a limited slip, you'll have 3 open differentials with the Selec-Trac; you can get stuck if even one tire loses traction when in 4wd Fulltime (of course, when that happens, you change to part-time).
Since I'm not spoiled by AWD, the part time transfer case works just fine for my needs.
Maybe it worked for the electric utility pulling spools of wire?
venis
Also, the minor problem I referred to earlier is a shimmey in the tire. It is with one tire and moves with the tire when they are rotated. It seems to stop for a short time after the tires are balanced but comes back after a couple of weeks. Anyone had this problem?
I just got a brand new 2001 Cherokee Sport and I think I may have a rough idle. When I sit at a light or before I start out, I notice that my RPMs bounce a little, maybe 700-800 RPMS and the truck vibrates.
And I also notice that (sometimes) when the engine is cold the RPMs are a little higher, around 900 or so.
I used to drive a Concorde, which was a smooth riding road machine, so I'm not sure if I'm not used to the Jeep yet, or if there actually IS a problem.
Could there be a possibility that I didn't let the Pistons seat properly during the initial 500 miles. There are 2000 miles on it now.
Anyone know??
One more thing, I also notice a metal to metal rubbing sound on the front left wheel/axle when I drive. I know its not road noise. It sounds like something needs to be greased.
I have been switching in and out of 4 wheel over the past few weeks with the snow we have had. Could there be a problem there?
Thanks again.
Watch out for tires getting sucked into the engine in those Concordes!
;-)
my jeep dealer tells me a lot more will be arriving at dealers as part of a last ditch marketing effort. They think that yellow will be popular in the spring.
Is the noise constant in the front? Mine is noiser especially in 4X4, but I don't know about metal on metal. The air intake is also on the drivers side, which makes alot of racket. An inline-6 engine sounds alot different than a V6 or any other engine for the most part. If it's actually metal on metal, something will self-destruct soon and it won't be a mystery!
As I recall, SelectTrac has a 4WD High Part-time mode as well, so the centre differential can be locked (though not for dry pavement of course!).
Drew
Host
Vans and SUVs message boards
Have you verified that it is actually leaking, rather than just depending on the word of the place which changed your oil that may, ...well... be looking for a little extra work?
If it is really leaking, well then it sounds like the seal is bad. Replacing it shouldn't be the biggest job in the world (drain the fluid / remove the cover / clean up all the surfaces / install new sealant / replace the cover / tighten to spec / replace the fluid).
2) Tire shimmy: It sounds like the weights in the problematic tire aren't being installed correclty, so that they're coming loose. Have you always been taking it to the same tire place? Maybe try taking it somewhere else.
Drew
Host
Vans and SUVs message boards
I recently purchased a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport at our local Chrysler dealership in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada. I won't get into the fact that the service there was a nightmare. Since I wanted the vehicle, I put up with it. In short, this is my first 4x4 vehicle and I know little or nothing about the feature. While it seems to be running fine, I do leave it in four wheel drive most of the time. The roads here are bad, snow covered and icy with lots of gravel. Will this hurt the part-time four wheel drive system? Also, on my second oil change I requested synthetic oil. It has been between -42 and -30 Celsius for a couple of months here and I heard it is better for cold weather driving. Is this true? My thanks to anyone who takes the time to reply.
dane5:
You'll have to ultimately decide this for yourself. The part time transfer case doesn't have a differential in it. Consequently, the front and rear driveshafts turn at the same rate. When you make a turn, the outside 2 wheels 1)Want to turn at the same rate becauase of the driveshafts but 2)Want to turn at different rates because they travel different paths.
Thus something has to give. When the ground is snow/ice covered, you won't have a problem because one of the tires will easily scrub off the difference in speed (it "slides" some relative to the ground). Same thing on gravel.
If, though, the pavement is dry and your tires have very good traction, it takes much more effort for the tire to slip. Consequently, it puts much more stress on the transfer case. Just from looking at a map to see where "Yellowknife" is, I doubt during the winter months you would have to take it out of 4wd very often (I got cold just looking at the map!).
Fortunately, shift on the fly makes it pretty easy to go in and out as needed. If you notice the front end hopping around a bunch when you make a turn, you might want to consider disengaging the front driveshaft for the turn.
Synthetic Oil: There is a forum under the "Maintenance & Repair" conference where alot of people debate the merits of synthetic oil. Regardless of the arguments for/against prolonged change intervals, I suspect everyone would agree that synthetic is a benefit at VERY low temperatures. If I were you, I would be going with 0W30 synthetic (I personally like Mobil1, but there are other brands as well).
Good luck. I'm kind of glad I live in the southern US. :-)
Yea I guess if you want near perfection you can go out and pay $70K for a Range Rover 4.6.
But do you want to throw your muddy dogs in the back after a romp thru the creek? And how do you feel after the paint job gets scratched up driving through some brush. What are you buying the vehicle for - going to the opera? It's a UTILITY vehicle.
Yes it's a little noisier than a Rolls Royce and rides rougher than a Cadillac. Cmon! It's unbelievable how fat-assed soft people have become.