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Jeep Cherokee



  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    By biggest problem with the full-time system is all the extra parts. I like to keep things simple driving as many miles as I do because I don't like expensive repairs. The part-time system is a very good system and has less to break. If you won't keep it more than a few years and mainly are on the road, the full-time system is probably just fine for you.
  • Maybe it saw use as a cab in the tropics?

    Maybe it worked for the electric utility pulling spools of wire?
  • These are brand new 2001 models, and now they have three, 2 four doors and one 2 door.
  • eaganeagan Posts: 25
    my local dealer has actually quite a few yellow cherokees on the lot. i didn't notice if they were 2 or 4 door but they definately stand out. my friend had(until he cracked his rear axle) a yellow wrangler and it looked sweet. i still dont know id i would buy a yellow car though.

  • I have a 2000 Cherokee sport and I love it. I have 14,500 miles on it and have had only one annoying problem up until last weekend. This weekend, I had the oil changed and I was told that the differential is leaking. I am very easy on my Cherokee it is never abused. I have used the full time four-wheel drive four or five times in ice and snow. I am a little concerned about this leak and I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem. If this is a sign of problems, I think I will invest in the extended warranty but generally, I think extended warranties are a waste of money. I am concerned that I may be seeing a sign of future problems. Anyone know anything about this?

    Also, the minor problem I referred to earlier is a shimmey in the tire. It is with one tire and moves with the tire when they are rotated. It seems to stop for a short time after the tires are balanced but comes back after a couple of weeks. Anyone had this problem?
  • Hey Fellas,

    I just got a brand new 2001 Cherokee Sport and I think I may have a rough idle. When I sit at a light or before I start out, I notice that my RPMs bounce a little, maybe 700-800 RPMS and the truck vibrates.

    And I also notice that (sometimes) when the engine is cold the RPMs are a little higher, around 900 or so.

    I used to drive a Concorde, which was a smooth riding road machine, so I'm not sure if I'm not used to the Jeep yet, or if there actually IS a problem.

    Could there be a possibility that I didn't let the Pistons seat properly during the initial 500 miles. There are 2000 miles on it now.

    Anyone know??

    One more thing, I also notice a metal to metal rubbing sound on the front left wheel/axle when I drive. I know its not road noise. It sounds like something needs to be greased.

    I have been switching in and out of 4 wheel over the past few weeks with the snow we have had. Could there be a problem there?

    Thanks again.
  • I would feel like a cabbie in a yellow car.

    Watch out for tires getting sucked into the engine in those Concordes!

  • Re the yellow cherokees:

    my jeep dealer tells me a lot more will be arriving at dealers as part of a last ditch marketing effort. They think that yellow will be popular in the spring.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    The idle you described is normal for this engine. It's a work horse. It will idle higher when cold also. If the climate control is in either defrost mode, the A/C will cycle on which also raises the rpm's for a few seconds.

    Is the noise constant in the front? Mine is noiser especially in 4X4, but I don't know about metal on metal. The air intake is also on the drivers side, which makes alot of racket. An inline-6 engine sounds alot different than a V6 or any other engine for the most part. If it's actually metal on metal, something will self-destruct soon and it won't be a mystery!
  • Is it common for Jeeps to have *ignore* seals? I have a 94 4WD Sport 4dr and it has a *ignore* main seal, and rear differential. I have noticed a few other Cherokees on the road with the rear differential looking a little oily.
  • please insert "leaky" in place of *ignore* in my earlier post...........sigh.......
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    "On the other hand, unless you get a limited slip, you'll have 3 open differentials withthe Selec-Trac; you can get stuck if even one tire loses traction when in 4wd Fulltime (of course, when that happens, you change to part-time)."

    As I recall, SelectTrac has a 4WD High Part-time mode as well, so the centre differential can be locked (though not for dry pavement of course!).

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  • bblahabblaha Posts: 329
    1) Leaking differential: Which differential is leaking? Depending on whether you have 2wd, 4wd part time, or 4wd fulltime, you can have 1, 2, or 3 differentials.

    Have you verified that it is actually leaking, rather than just depending on the word of the place which changed your oil that may, ...well... be looking for a little extra work?

    If it is really leaking, well then it sounds like the seal is bad. Replacing it shouldn't be the biggest job in the world (drain the fluid / remove the cover / clean up all the surfaces / install new sealant / replace the cover / tighten to spec / replace the fluid).

    2) Tire shimmy: It sounds like the weights in the problematic tire aren't being installed correclty, so that they're coming loose. Have you always been taking it to the same tire place? Maybe try taking it somewhere else.
  • bblahabblaha Posts: 329
    Ummmm.... I thought that's what I was saying with the parenthetical ending. I guess I wasn't clear.
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Oh okay... Maybe I wasn't looking as clearly either :-)

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  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Did you catch Car and Drivers test of 11 sport-utes this month? They pretty much thrashed the Cherokee. The funny thing is, I thought that test was actually going to be for usefulness because it tested their snow-going ability. They couldn't get the Cherokee stuck but the top two winners were the worst in the snow (Escape/Tribute). Jeep has a niche market right now with the Cherokee if you compare all the data. None of the newer utes can tow worth a crap, all the HP is in 6000rpm range, they have no torque at a usable RPM, and who would ever need a low range? After the end of the Cherokee, you won't be able to buy a smaller/reasonably priced SUV that can do anything but ride good around the mall. They can rate these utes to tow whatever they want, but high rpm HP and Torque doesn't work. Later, I'm done ranting for now.
  • dane5dane5 Posts: 4
    Hi everyone,
    I recently purchased a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport at our local Chrysler dealership in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada. I won't get into the fact that the service there was a nightmare. Since I wanted the vehicle, I put up with it. In short, this is my first 4x4 vehicle and I know little or nothing about the feature. While it seems to be running fine, I do leave it in four wheel drive most of the time. The roads here are bad, snow covered and icy with lots of gravel. Will this hurt the part-time four wheel drive system? Also, on my second oil change I requested synthetic oil. It has been between -42 and -30 Celsius for a couple of months here and I heard it is better for cold weather driving. Is this true? My thanks to anyone who takes the time to reply.
  • bblahabblaha Posts: 329
    sebring: Thanks for the heads up. Yeah, I'm pretty disgusted too. It's not so much that I hate the Liberty (I don't), just that I can't believe DC would cut off the Cherokee even when its still selling so well. If they'd just freshen up the interior...

    You'll have to ultimately decide this for yourself. The part time transfer case doesn't have a differential in it. Consequently, the front and rear driveshafts turn at the same rate. When you make a turn, the outside 2 wheels 1)Want to turn at the same rate becauase of the driveshafts but 2)Want to turn at different rates because they travel different paths.

    Thus something has to give. When the ground is snow/ice covered, you won't have a problem because one of the tires will easily scrub off the difference in speed (it "slides" some relative to the ground). Same thing on gravel.

    If, though, the pavement is dry and your tires have very good traction, it takes much more effort for the tire to slip. Consequently, it puts much more stress on the transfer case. Just from looking at a map to see where "Yellowknife" is, I doubt during the winter months you would have to take it out of 4wd very often (I got cold just looking at the map!).

    Fortunately, shift on the fly makes it pretty easy to go in and out as needed. If you notice the front end hopping around a bunch when you make a turn, you might want to consider disengaging the front driveshaft for the turn.

    Synthetic Oil: There is a forum under the "Maintenance & Repair" conference where alot of people debate the merits of synthetic oil. Regardless of the arguments for/against prolonged change intervals, I suspect everyone would agree that synthetic is a benefit at VERY low temperatures. If I were you, I would be going with 0W30 synthetic (I personally like Mobil1, but there are other brands as well).

    Good luck. I'm kind of glad I live in the southern US. :-)
  • Wow, I see all this complaining in here about the Cherokee. I guess I got a cherry. Got a 99 Sport. Not had a lick of trouble with it. Done long range hauling, city driving, off road, the works. It's been a champ all the way. The cost effectiveness of the Cherokee can't be beat.

    Yea I guess if you want near perfection you can go out and pay $70K for a Range Rover 4.6.
    But do you want to throw your muddy dogs in the back after a romp thru the creek? And how do you feel after the paint job gets scratched up driving through some brush. What are you buying the vehicle for - going to the opera? It's a UTILITY vehicle.

    Yes it's a little noisier than a Rolls Royce and rides rougher than a Cadillac. Cmon! It's unbelievable how fat-assed soft people have become.
  • dane5dane5 Posts: 4
    Thanks for the information. Let me see if I understand now how the part-time 4 wd works. What you are saying is as long as the wheels can slip in turns, even a little, then the length of time you keep the 4 wd engaged isn't a concern -- even if it is engaged for months? I would drive in 2wd for a few hours then put it back in four thinking that would make a difference, but it probably doesn't? While driving in 2, it was unstable and I'd prefer not to do that until the snow melts. As for the other posting (bennie 99) today, I agree. The roads here are close to third world out of the city of Yellowknife because of permafrost. There is 140 km of gravel road driving into Yellowknife, even though it is a capital city. In winter the highway is just covered in packed snow. But in summer when it rains, it just turns to mud (imagine spring thaw). The Cherokee is perfect for these conditions. Right now I have to travel on an ice road across the Great Slave Lake to a First Nations community every week for my work. The traction is wicked and I feel very safe and comfortable in all conditions. I've put 20,000 km on my Cherokee Sport so far and it has been perfect. I want it to stay that way which is why I check out sites like this. Anyway, thanks again for the information. By the way, the summers may be short here but they are amazing, 24 hours of sunlight and the best fishing in the world. Winters, well with a snowmachine and a Cherokee it's not that bad. Later, Dane.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    What, there's a shortcut to Detah or you going further? I've driven a minivan up there, but don't think I'd want to try that this time of year (not sure I'd wanna try it in a Cherokee right now).

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  • dane5dane5 Posts: 4
    Yes, there is an ice road to Dettah built every year. I also have to drive to Fort Resolution (Deninu Kue First Nation) which is 600 km around the lake. You go through Hay River and it's the only community on the other side. For fun though, me and a buddy are going to drive the Lupin ice road, maybe this weekend because it just opened. The Lupin ice road was built to allow big rigs to haul supplies to the diamond mines (BHP--operating mine) and (Diavik--under construction). It crosses six lakes and goes all the way to the barrenlands (about 300 km). We're hoping to see Muskox at the barrenlands but we always see things like Wolverine, rabbit, bear, silver-haired fox, lynx, sometimes wolf, and a whole host of other wildlife. As for the drive in winter, I went home for Christmas (Vancouver) and on the way back there had been a huge dump of snow past High Level. Many big trucks were in the ditch, there was no plowing being done (that I could see), and I made it through no problem. And that is one hell of a long stretch. Anyway, don't try the Lupin ice road in a mini-van. Later, Dane.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Sounds like a fun trip! (enjoy the view from the "skyscraper" in Hay River). I took a right to go to Wood Buffalo, and skipped Ft. Resolution. Maybe next time:-)

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  • bblahabblaha Posts: 329
    Here's what might happen:

    The front driveshaft is chain driven. While a chain is strong, it doesn't compare to a gear.

    I don't have any personal experience with this, nor do I personally know anyone that has either. However, I've heard "rumors" that prolonged use of the front driveshaft can stretch the chain, causing it, at some point, to start slipping within the transfer case.

    Though for what you are doing, I wouldn't change your driving habit at all. Just be aware that this "might" occur.
  • Thoughts, advice or insights appreciated...(Sorry for the long post)
    I have an '88 Cherokee Pioneer, 162k, 4.0, 5sp man 4wd, cloth seats, power st/br (I think this was a package), Colorado Red. I bought it in (I think) Feb'96 with 111k, I paid the previous owner $4100 cash for it. The previous owner had just put new tires on it, I put a new set on last fall.
    The body is fair, no debilitating rust but a few dings (one is a particularly annoying ding in the the rear window joist from an ornery tail gating truck driver but thats another story, a slightly bent front bumper (NYC fender bender 3 days after I had it replaced grrr) and the pass side rear view mirror is epoxied in place (it was broken when I boght it but didnt notice till an auto-wash broke it off, of course they said nada, I heard it flapping in the breze on the way home)
    I have it securely in place but now every other "brushless" car wash knocks it off so I dont get it washed often enough- I've resolved to start taking it to a self wash I've found (they aren't that common around here- here being North Jersey near NYC). I daydream about getting these blemishes fixed...
    Besides it's little aches and pains since I bought it I've had to replace the clutch master cylinder/slave twice(one goes, the other follows);once about a year ago just recently; and the clutch pedal. The first time going into the tranny for the slave we did the clutch too,so it has a pretty new clutch with maybe 10k on it.
    We were both pretty confounded that these parts went so quick- Checking on the warranty with the parts wholesaler my mechanic (Matt) was told by the wholesaler that he gets this story about old jeeps all the time- That the firewall has a manufacturing deficiency (too thin?) and that high mileage jeeps go thru these parts quickly because the deformation causes the plunger to move at an errant angle (hence the clutch pedal failing- it was "clicking" and eventually quit working)? What does anyone with any knowledge think of this?
    The kickers are that this last time the slave cylinder went I was caught in traffic (with no clutch!) I was less than a mile from my garage and on the way to being late for a very important appointment so rather than pull over and call AAA and have it the truck towed in I forced it to start by cranking it and jamming it into gear. I >did< start it and made it to the garage in one piece, the clutch works again but now it grinds unless I apply just the right touch shifting into third. My mechanic (who I trust implicitly, he is in the neighborhood, is reasonable and has done all my auto work the past 10 years)says the only way to fix this problem is to rebuild the tranny (gulp) He gave me a ballpark estimate today of $1500-1700.
    The other issue is NJ's emiisions laws which I need to check into a little further. The last time I needed to get it inspected(generally once a year in NJ I think) my mechanic warned me that that the new equipment private inspection stations had been required to get was very expensive and the test very stringent and pass/fail only ($80 please)and that I would be better off going to the state inspection station(free), they were still using the old style. So I went, I passed and received an extended inspection thru 2002. I'm not sure what all this was about, all I knew was that was "in" but I'm wondering what is going to happen next inspection?
    Will I be "grandfathered" in or forced to do an expensive? emissions system overhaul? Or just flat out failed and told I cant drive the car anymore. I need to get more info about this- Does anybody know anything? They do some screwball "car things" in this state sometimes.
    So ther dilemma is whether to get the tranny job done or dump the car (I think its trade in is about $500-$1280)
    The tranny job is roughly the amount of a puny down payment on a new vehicle. Then I'm looking at 5 or 6 years at about $300/mo plus comp insurance (I presently only carry liability- but a lot)
    But still thinking about issues with my good'ol Jeep...
    I really have enjoyed this truck and have relished >not< being under car and insurance payment pressures after enduring same (as student no less.)
    Once again...
    Ideas, insights, advice appreciated.
  • Hi all -
    Just purchased my 5th Jeep, but it's my first Cherokee. I've been spoiled, since I bought and just recently sold a 2000 wrangler (financial reasons - miss it terribly). Now I'm the proud owner of a '96 Cherokee Sport 4D, auto 6 with 50K miles. It feels solid, runs great (slight clunk when accelerating), no frills except AC. I think I got a great deal. Just need to know what to expect with an older Cherokee. Has there been any serious problems noted with this year? This place was instrumental in helping me with the Wrangler. I'm sure I'll get the same great advice on the Cherokee. Any info will help. Thanks.
  • dane5dane5 Posts: 4
    Hi all,

    It's me again. I have a question about the suspension on the Cherokee Sport. I was driving with three adults in the back seat and on every little bump it seems like the suspension bottomed out. At least that's what it sounded like and felt like. The passengers pointed it out and I argued with them, saying that the suspension on the Jeep is stiff. I talked about the uni-body frame and such, but didn't know what the hell I was talking about. I said there was no way it could be bottoming out on such small bumps because of the clearance it had. The springs may have been stiff because it was -32, I said. But the passengers argued with me. Is this normal? To be honest, I've noticed a similar clunk, usually under the rear wheels (or wheel)on bumps even while driving by myself. I thought it was normal for this type of vehicle. Is it? Because my Cherokee Sport is brand new, I can't imagine there being serious suspension problems. I haven't done any seriously hard 4x4 driving or anything. Deep snow and ice but not to bad. It still feels secure to drive, I mean it doesn't bounce around or anything. Any insights into this?
    Thanks, Dane.
  • Humor me here . . .
    I have a new cherokee sport and I think its a great vehicle. This is my first 4x4 WITHOUT a slip differential so I have some concerns.

    First, it seems that pt 4wd significantly effects the vehicle's turning radius. The front wheels are forcing the jeep wide on normal turns (in snow, etc.)

    Second, because the front wheels MUST be able to slip, command track contradicts the purpose of having 4wd. My jeep loses traction in turns whereas 4x4s I drove in the past added traction in turns.

    I'd appreciate any opinions
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    That's pretty much the way it works. Command Trac locks the front and rear, so they will drive equally instead of shifting power back and forth. For never leaving the road, Selec-trac is obviously the better choice. I haven't noticed the front sliding around much in the snow, but I don't take turns very fast either. I don't drive any differently in 4X4 than I do in 4X2 so that helps. I also tend to leave it in 4X2 unless the snow is really deep, then shift in when I really need traction. The rear wheels seem to do an excellent job by themselves for the most part. The solid front axle also contributes to the Jeeps steering issues.
  • bblahabblaha Posts: 329
    rrhobbs: Sorry, I can't help you since I haven't owned a Cherokee that old so don't know what sort of aches and pains it eventually ends up with. I would visit the following 2 sites where you may find someone who can:

    Both of these sites are filled with Jeep enthusiasts who subscribe to the philosophy "Jeeps are built, not bought" and know the mechanics inside and out.

    rinfantino: Jeeps tend to accumulate numerous "non-serious" problems rather than any serious ones (serious to me mean safety, engine, or transmission problems). Since you have a 4 dr, you aren;t likely to face the broken weld problem. The rear leafs will sag over time, accelerated by alot of towing. 97 was the update year, and I think one of the changes was a more standardized electrical bus. There may have been some sort of a problem there, but I'm not sure. Anyway, congratulations on staying with Jeep!


    How much weight did you have in back? Cherokees have bumbers (in both the front and rear) to limit the amount of travel the springs are forced to endure. Most likely, particularly with some weight in the back, the jolt you were experiencing was hitting those. If you remove one of the rear tires, you should see it bolted to the frame rail above the axle.

    If they complain about the rough ride, tell them they are welcome to bring their Lexus the next time. :-)


    In addition to what sebring has said, I want to point out that even if the front wheels have to slide, they don't actually "lose" traction, its merely reduced (the difference between static and dynamic friction coefficients). Even sliding, the front wheels are still pulling the front end around in the direction you want it to go.

    I'm a little bit curious to know what kind of 4x4 setup you were previously driving (ie, limited slips where?), because I'm not exactly sure what you mean when you say "4x4s I drove in the past added traction in turns."

    4wd doesn't "add traction". Friction between the tires and the ground does that. 4wd, in all its various setups, merely determines where power is delivered.

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