LOL Nah...just do a lot of reseach before I jump out there and spend my hard earned money. Then, my buddies all like the eye I have, so when it comes time to make a selection...they come to me. So...I try to stay up on things.
If your plan is to swap out the wheels for winter, that's a great idea. I do the same thing as well.
I figured I would put something up there that would catch your eye. Wasn't too sure what look you were going for, but I knew all of those would keep the car looking classy.
RE 96: Has anybody else seen a good set of wheels for the Azera?
To each their own, but I swapped the OEM's with the same in chrome, retaining the "stock" appearance. I also kept the OEM Michelin's. When my lease is up I'll sell / swap with another Azera owner and return mine to the out the door appearance at time of lease origination and recover some of my original investment. (My exterior color is black.
Cost? $600.00 for exchange in chrome, labor/re-balance and Nitro pressure fill.
PAY ATTENTION AND LOOK CLOSELY BEFORE YOU BUY THE KIT.
The white 'A' is 'KOREAN' based. I priced out and was ready to drop some change when upon closer look the 'WHOLE FRONTEND' hood, fenders, bumper and grill are of a different configuration than the 'AMERICAN' version. This eliminated the possibility for the side and rear molding kit.
Look close at photos of the front end from an angle and compare to pictures of your car, split screen.
You are right, to each their own. Some people are quite content with the stock look. You liked the stock design, but obviously needed a different look that chrome provided.
By the time your lease is up, swapping them for an original set will be just that...a swap. Someone would be a fool to give you any money for them just because they have been chromed with the miles you'll have on them by then. Good luck!
I don't know what you've been drinking, but if you go look again...the kit is made up of pieces you ADD to the bottom of the front and rear bumpers and the bottom of the sides of the car. The ONLY difference between that white Azera in the pics is that it has the rear back up assist sensors in the rear bumper.
I went with 17" chrome wheels from Tire Rack and used the Michelins that came with my Azera. This retained the creamy smooth ride that was a main reason I bought the Azera in the first place. I then purchased Michelin Alpin ( also 235/55-17 ) snow tires and had them mounted on the original Azera wheels. While winter tires are probably not really necessary in your location, they will provide added security if you want to maintain a quick pace on snowy roads. I found the stock Azera tires just adequate in snow. With many years of experience, I would not recommend chrome wheels for winter use - salt will take its toll. The cost of the new chrome wheels and the Michelin snow tires was about $1600 mounted, and the store where I got the snow tires rotates them with the summer set for free each season.
Whatever you decide, be especially watchful as to the weight of the aftermarket wheels and tires you purchase - it is very important to ride, braking, and acceleration. Lighter is better. Try the following link for a pic of my Azera.
The front is just a piece that is added to the lower portion. The grille (sold separately)...I've heard is a bit tricky to replace, but it can be done without too much drama.
I'm not exactly sure when I'll be getting it, I've gotta start saving up my lunch money to get this one.
Pretty nice look there! You can keep chrome wheels on in the winter if you're the type that keeps them clean. Personally, I prefer to remove them in the event you slip on some ice and make contact with a curb or something. This past winter wasn't bad at all so taking them off wasn't an issue.
$1600 for some 17's with tires!!! :surprise:
I can tell you...with the 20's I got...I haven't had any issues with braking, handling or acceleration. I actually like how it tracks on curves and how it handles corners even better now. The body roll is a bit less than with stock wheels & tires.
Too bad Hyundai doesn't make that an option one could get on the Limited model. I liked the stock style wheels, just wasn't wild about the silver finish. They look really good chromed out.
Now you got me thinking about sending mine out to get chromed so I can keep a chromed look year round!
RE: 113 Winter! What are you guys talking about? It's 80 degrees and sunny in the winter, here in Florida. It's the damn hurricanes that we are concerned about in the summer. The whole car blows away, wheels included.
Will it keep the overall diameter the same as what comes on it? That's the important thing if you don't want to throw your speedo off. Use the link below to tell you what you really need to know before changing tire sizes...
Based on what you're asking...the difference would be minimal. However, the only question remaining is...would the 255 be too wide when it comes to width because you would need fender clearance when you turn and also on the rear tires if you were to hit a bump or something...when the tire travels up, would it scrape the inside of the rear fender.
Personally...I have 245/35-20's on my Azera now and I believe the 255 would be a hair too wide for the Azera. I'm not a tire specialist, so I could be wrong, but from what I see sitting on mine...245 is the widest you might want to go.
Overall diameters/cross section widths/tread widths are easily obtained from the listings for the different brands and sizes from the TireRack.
But IF the factory wheel widths are not wide enough to properly support the sidewalls . . . :confuse: Therein lies 'el problemo!'
As it is now, my new car travels approximately two (2) percent further than what the odometer shows. :surprise: Something to factor in for those of us that figure actual fuel mileages the 'old fashion way.'
Speedometer is spot on, and as close as I have ever seen! :surprise:
Again . . anyone know the actual factory wheel widths? :confuse:
My concern with what you're asking is that the factory tire width is 9.25" wide, but the size you're proposing is .79" inch wider. I really do see that 3/4" being a problem.
What are you utilizing to measure your distances to determine your odometer is 2% off?
So are you looking for a tire width or a wheel width? I believe the factory WHEEL width is 7".
What do you mean by the wheel width not being wide enough to properly support the sidewall???
"My concern with what you're asking is that the factory tire width is 9.25" wide, but the size you're proposing is .79" inch wider. I really do see that 3/4" being a problem."
It shouldn't be a problem as only half of that .8 inch increase (section width, not tread width) or .4 will be to the inside. I once widened some rear wheels 1 1/2 inches (all to the inside) and went from size 255/50-17 to 315/35-17 and experienced no problems.
I have closely checked the rears, but haven't done the fronts yet. Plenty of room for that extra width there. You still have extra room for the rears on your car, correct?
"What are you utilizing to measure your distances to determine your odometer is 2% off?"
The mile post markers on any interstate highway. It is possible in Southern California to check your odometer in the Worlds' largest county (San Bernardino) for over 186 miles along the I-15 from the I-60 all the way to the Cal-Nevada state line.
"So are you looking for a tire width or a wheel width? I believe the factory WHEEL width is 7."
Thanks. Wheel width. Was hoping for a minimum of 7 1/2 inches but 7 inches will work.
"What do you mean by the wheel width not being wide enough to properly support the sidewall???"
It's usually best if the wheel is wide enough so that the sidewall in not bowed either in or out. Taking your tire width of 9.65 inches, you would not want to try and mount it on a wheel that was less than seven inches wide would you? How wide are your 20 inch wheels?
BTW, using your Information Center calculator, your smaller than stock diameter ( I assume you started with 235-55-17s??) should make your ododmeter almost if not exactly spot on for the odometer function. Speedometer is close also at only one mile per hour short.
You used interstate mileage markers??? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...I thought you were going to say you strapped one of those single wheeled units to the side of your car to check it out. I would HARDLY go by mileage markers in California since things such as earthquakes would mean the plates are shifting and other things such as mileage markers shift as well. Maybe you need to find another means of comparing your odometer that can be more precise and exact before claiming a -2% difference in your reading. However...2% really isn't that bad to be honest. Your odometer tells you that you've driven 100 miles, but in actuality...you've only done 98.
What I'm trying to explain too you is that I have a tire that's 245 and there isn't much breathing room for much more. What I mean is that if the wheel travels upward, it's JUST clearing the inside of the fender. I was thinking 255's myself, but after seeing that...245's are fine by me. With the front, you run into an issue of needing clearance when the tires are turned.
I really don't know WHY you would want to jump up to a 255 on a 17" wheel. One issue is that the sidewall would bow out more and you would get more lean in your tires on curves and turns. Not exactly an appealing trait when it comes to handling. If you were putting the 255 on an 8" wide wheel, that would work much better as the sidewall woudn't bow out as much.
Also, the point you made about section width...if you're putting the 255 on a 7" wide wheel, the bow out would be much greater, creating an even wider section width.
My 20" rims are 8.5" wide.
You know what though, in the interest of wanting to know...I say go for it my good man. Go buy you a set of 255/50-17's and put them on and see what happens and report back here with your findings.
Hey...I'm just giving you info that I know factually based on what I have on my Azera right now.
The only way you're gonna find out if it's feasible to switch to a 255/50-17 tire is to try it. If you fail, well...I guess you can say that's money well spent on a lesson learned the hard way.
If 255 was a viable option for the Azera (regardless of rim width), then tire shops and aftermarket wheel shops would tell you as such. However...everyone I spoke to when I shopped for the new wheels said that 255 wasn't an option due to clearance issues. Take it for what it's worth and save your money and stop trying to get water from a rock!
Some of us understand (others do not) how important running sufficient tire pressure really is!
The factory recommended 30 PSI is fine for a smooth ride, but when driving at speed, that is not nearly enough.
For the many that do not understand this, or want to doubt what I am saying, try buying your own gauge and inflating your tires cold (Check 'em in the early AM when they have not been driven and haven't been exposed to the sun) to 37 PSI and take your car for a spin out on the interstate. Maximum PSI as printed on the sidewalls of our michelins is 44 PSI. For me that's too much. But 37 PSI seems about right.
Your car will ride a little harder, but it will also 'feel' so much better as far as the responsiveness and 'free' feeling is concerned. You must do this to experience what I am talking about.
Also, inflating them with pure nitrogen is helpful also, but that is another subject.
RE: 324 My car drives like crap with tire pressure over 33 PSI. The tires are very noisy at the higher pressure and the front end seems like it wants to wander.
RE: 327 Perhaps you are right, although the tire wear appears even, and the car does not pull. My tire pressure is maintained at 32PSI. I'm waiting to see if they (dealership) do anything with the struts or other suspension modification, then have an alignment performed.
The local Toyota dealer filled my Camry to 35 PSI, even though the manual said 29. His reasoning was that their experience with the cars in upper S.C. indicated this to be correct. At 29 PSI, they wore out much quicker, but at 35, the wear pattern was even across the treads and gas mileage was improved. Discovered the same thing with my RAV4. It's the old American car system-tell the customer to underinflate for a softer ride since he has to pay for the tires when they wear out. I keep my Azera at 32 for now, but once a month I check the tread wear (depth) pattern. Using Lincoln's head on a penny. Also, I heard experts on the radio say that most cars today never need an alignment unless you hit something really, really hard with the front wheels or have an accident. Still liking my 2007 a lot, but plan is to trade in 09/10. Thinking about a Genesis, but think I'll wait until they have been on the road at least four years.
I took my Azera in for its first oil change on Saturday. The Service manager told me he raised thr tire pressure to 35 psi. I didn't raise an issue with that. The car drove fine on the way back home. I also requested that they program my door locks to unlock when in park and lock when out of park. I also requested that they program the "easy exit" which the service manager hadn't heard of. He indicated that each programming would cost about $47. I asked if he could do it as a courtesy. He said he couldn't. While wandering around I ran into the sales manager and mentioned the cost. He said "no problem" and went into the service bay.He came out and told me the problem was taken care of but that I should see him before I request something from service. When I saw the service manager I apologized if I got him into trouble. He said that it was ok and that sales was paying. He sat me in the car and demonstrated the programmed locks and easy exit. He also told me to release the key as soon as I saw the tach needle begin to move. Total cost $33.82. I was very satified with the experience. The dealership is Jenkins Hyundai in Bradenton, FL.
The easy exit was programmed when I got my car, otherwise I would not have known it even existed. When I went in for an oil change, I asked them to reprogram the limp home code and the door locks from what I had originally requested. When I asked about a charge, they said none. During the re-progamming the car's computer crashed and even with Hyundai on the line, they could not get it back up. They ordered one by overnight and provided a rental car from Enterprise. Next day, I picked up my car, everything was fine and they even gave me a 10% discount on the oil change. Upstate Hyundai, Anderson SC. :surprise:
I have an alignment fellow that I use who has been around for a long time. He's got to be in his mid sixties. A Real youngster!
When we go to him, he takes the vehicle for a short drive and comes back and immediately drives onto the rack and barks out orders to the men in the pit as to what is needed. "Take 3/8s out of the . . . etc. He seems to feel exactly what is going on and to know what adjustments will correct what he is feeling! One of the first things he insists on that they must do is to inflate the tires to the maximum pressure as stated on the sidewalls. He would prefer that the customer leaves the tires at that high pressure (44PSI) but agrees that anything over what the car manufacture recommends is sort of okay. Goes out again. He continues this up until he is completely satisfied and then, and only then do the boys in the pit circle the front tires with chalk and do the 'toe-in' adjustment. He then takes it out once more, and if everything is just right, the car is finished.
He has done this now for us at least four times on different vehicles that I have taken there, and does the entire extended family, and I've not heard any complaints.
These newer radial tires will not show any 'funny' or bad wear characteristics unless the alignment is really off.
When we first got our Azera last month, it felt like it was off slightly and didn't seem to 'track' properly. It was as if you had to fight it constantly to get it to continue straight. But after jacking up the pressures from 30 psi to 37 psi and putting about 500 miles on the Michelins, that funny business gradually disappeared, and now with 2500 miles, I do not feel the need for his services at this time. He probably would change some adjustments slightly, but as I'm completely satisfied with the way it drives now, why spend the money?
RE: 128 Your guru sounds great, but in the computer generation, most new shops have fairly sophisticated front end alignment equipment that does a pretty good indication to the technician the necessary numbers for the required adjustments. The tech, of course, must be capable of operating the machine properly and making the indicated adjustments. I believe that 44 PSI in Azera tires is way to high and will provide a lousy ride with uneven traction and tire wear.
44 PSI probably means you are riding on one-two treads in reality. This is very dangerous as you are losing traction on dry roads and especially on wet or icy roads. Your "old" expert needs to retire. I even question 37 PSI. As I said before, the experts are saying we do not need as many alignments as we get. Today's vehciles just do not get out of alignment due to routine driving.
I couldn't disagree more with everything you have said!
One thing that I am sure of is that my "old" expert knows what he is doing and he surely knows more about the subject than yours' truly and everyone else on this forum combined for that matter. A person does not have a going business and thrive with a Bear franchise in Southern California unless he knows his business.
"One-two treads in reality." Give me a break please!
Why do you suppose that Michelin states right on the sidewalls of your tires that 44 PSI is permissible? :confuse:
I am an engineer for a major tire manufacturer and I used to be the guy who decided what pressure to stamp on the sidewall of the tires.
It used to be common for car manufacturers to use minimally sized tires and for tires to be stamped with the pressure that resulted in the maximum load carrying capacity - the 2 were one and the same.
That is no longer true. Many tires are stamped with a maximum pressure that takes into account high speed operation - such as on the Autobahn - and this pressure would be much higher than what should be used for normal operation.
Plus most car manufacturers are using tires that are much larger than is needed and then use lower pressures to get a better ride. The pressure the car manufacturers specify on the vehicle placard takes into account a wide variety of things including the weight of the vehicle. This pressure tends to be on the soft side, and adding a few psi is sometimes a good idea, but the disadvantage is that the ride quality deteriorates.
We're talking a few psi - 3 to 5. It makes no sense to take a vehicle that specifies 26 psi and run it at 44 psi.
Since this man runs a going business and you do not, I will side with his expertise. :surprise:
30 PSI for my Azera is simply not enough, period. Go back and read my statements. I did not say that I run 44 psi, only that he will always inflate the tires on each vehicle that he aligns to the maximum stated on the sidewalls. He knows, and so do you, that most people will not leave those pressures in their tires after they leave his shop.
But through experimenting with my sixty some odd vehicles over sixty years, I have found that other than the recommended pressures are in most cases better.
And with our Azera, we spend a great deal of our time on the interstates at higher than the legal speed limits. If you have one of these fine automobiles, you know that it is very easy to look down and discover that you are up in the 90 mph range and even higher sometimes, and you don't even realize it because there are people passing you!
30 psi even in these excellent Michelins is simply not enough at those speeds. BTW, we run nitrogen also.
Same thing with the Kona Focus. 30 is not enough. I run 39 psi in that vehicle.
Have you tried running a few extra pounds and if you have, don't you notice how much better the vehicle seems to roll and how much freer is feels? Not to mention the increased tire wear and longer life?
If you want the soft ride and shorter life and less fuel economy, plus poor handling, go ahead and run 30 psi cold. But that's not for many of us!
We would be interested in knowing what tire manufacturer you work for? :confuse:
Anybody who pays the franchise fee can continue to be a dealer. How many of his customers know that he has overinflated the tires and left them that way? Sounds like a class action lawsuit waiting to happen to me as this is a potential safety issue. I took a car to a national alignment chain once for a 1/2 price alignment special. Before he even checked the alignment, he put it on a rack and told me I needed new ball joints. He didn't bother to notice that the odomoter showed 3,000 miles! 50,000 miles later I sold the car with the same ball joints on it.
My neighbor is an engineer for Michelin and he never runs his tires more than 5 PSI over the manufacturer's recommended and sometimes less.
Your total suspension "package" includes tires and mechanical support items such as struts, springs and joints, and if you run significantly higher than manufacturer's-recommended tire pressures, you may extend your tire life a bit, but you may also diminish the life-span of your other elements as the stiffer tires transfer more shock to those elements...
I'm sorry that you don't believe that the ground shifts in earthquake prevelant areas.
What causes earthquakes? Shifting plates, right? When a plate shifts, doesn't that mean the ground above it is directly affected?
You keep thinking that the mile markers are 100% accurate. Next time you want to make a statement about your odometer being off, use an actual tool of measurement to prove it.
Then again, you just know everything...carry on genius!
Mike, I know that there are shifting plates deep underground.
But you don't live here in Southern California as I do! If you did as I have for more than 71 years and were half as smart as you think you are, you would know that were these plates to shift enough to move those posts enough to change the accuracy of those measurements which I am sure were placed there by people who work for the Federal Government which I am sure used accurate measure devises, there would be hugh breaks in the earths' surface and sink holes big enough to swallow a truck. Should this happen, I'm sure that you'd know about it being there in Washington D C.
As I said above, I've lived here all of more than 71 years, been all over, and I have never seen any cracks in the earths' surface here in California on any interstate that I have traveled. Also, on my yearly trips to my cottage on the Winnipeg River, I have checked numerous odometers with mile posts on many highways throughout the Western United States and Canada and therefore, I view your insulting statement about the mile posts not being accurate because California has shifting plates to be simply ignorance talking! Oh, that's right. Canada measures their distances up yonder using kilometers. Bet you don't know how to convert them over to miles though. Well I do. Oh, that's not accurate either?
Keep on digging yourself into your ignorance grave.
I stand by my statement that the mile posts are indeed accurate, especially on the interstates. You, on the other hand, may doubt that all you want. But don't come on these forums and show your ignorance about a subject you obviously know very little about.
Let's drop the personal comments, please. Differences of opinions are part of what makes the world go 'round. There's no reason to get into insults over them. Let's agree to disagree and move on.
Read post #137. I'd say an engineer who determined max tire pressures for a major manufacturer should be pretty expert. The max pressure stamped on the sidewall will get you to the max load capacity for that tire. if your vehicle load is nowhere near that weight, then you can safely go lower to improve the ride, with more rolling resistance and less fuel economy as a result. With a lightly loaded vehicle, I wouldn't hesitate to cruise all day at legal speeds with the manufacturers recommended pressure.
"......The max pressure stamped on the sidewall will get you to the max load capacity for that tire......."
Ah..... not exactly.
There is not 100% agreement within the tire industry as to what should be printed on the sidewall. As you alluded to, load carrying capacity is tied to inflation pressure. But most tire manufacturers print on their sidewalls a value that not only includes enough presssure for the maximum load carrying capacity, but a bit more to account to special circumstances - like operation at hgh speed.
The exception seems to be the Michelin group (brand names Michelin, Uniroyal, and Goodrich), where their S and T rated tires show 35 (or 36) psi - most everyone else shows 44 psi, even though that load carrying capacities are the same.
If you will allow me some space to explain why I think the "old expert" isn't one, I think you will understand my position.
First is that using what is printed on the sidewall to set up a vehicle is just fine. The problem is driving on those pressures for the purposes of diagnosis. V and Z rated tires will have 51 psi stamped on the sidewall, and I've seen circumstances where the pressure specified by the vehicle manufacturer will be 29 psi. This is quite a difference (22 psi). If the vehicle manufacturer's pressure is never used in the diagnostic work, how can the test driver know what the vehicle is experiencing when the tire pressures are returned to that level? I point this out because the tread of an over inflated tire tends to arch and ride on the center ribs - and this could change where the footprint pressure is concentrated.
Further, I disagree that most folks will put the tire pressures back down to a different level when the vehicle is returned to the owner. I think that is giving the average owner too much credit. My experience has been that the vast majority of vehicle owners are clueless about tire pressures. As evidence, notice the many posts concerning new cars that ride rough when they leave the dealership - and the cause is the tire pressure used in shipping the car.
I am sure the "old expert" is conscientious and does good work, but I urge caution in accepting everything he says. While I would like to be have everything I say to remain unquestioned, I think it is unhealthy to believe that one indiviual possesses all the knowledge of the universe - including me.
I'm sure the old expert is indeed doing what he does simply because he believes that he can better determine what any said vehicle needs to be correctly aligned. Why he would like the owner to leave those lofty higher pressures in their tires is indeed a question that I will put to him the next time I see him.
For me, I would not run 44 psi for very long. Only until my car had sat in the garage overnight and the tires were cold so I could adjust them to a lower pressure. I have a pencil type gauge that I bought 55 years ago, but prefer my round faced gauge because it is much easier to use.
I recommend that all drivers use their own gauge as many that are in garages and filling stations are not very accurate. Checking your tires when the tires are cold is not a bad idea either.
I got a new round gauge when I got my Azera as the pencil one I had was 10 years old. They both read the same. I always check pressure when cold and use a hand pump to add air before I move the car or the sun hits the tires. My tires read max 51 PSI,but I seem to be getting good wear, control, economy, etc. at 32.
Comments
If your plan is to swap out the wheels for winter, that's a great idea. I do the same thing as well.
I figured I would put something up there that would catch your eye. Wasn't too sure what look you were going for, but I knew all of those would keep the car looking classy.
To each their own, but I swapped the OEM's with the same in chrome, retaining the "stock" appearance. I also kept the OEM Michelin's. When my lease is up I'll sell / swap with another Azera owner and return mine to the out the door appearance at time of lease origination and recover some of my original investment. (My exterior color is black.
Cost? $600.00 for exchange in chrome, labor/re-balance and Nitro pressure fill.
The white 'A' is 'KOREAN' based. I priced out and was ready to drop some change when upon closer look the 'WHOLE FRONTEND' hood, fenders, bumper and grill are of a different configuration than the 'AMERICAN' version. This eliminated the possibility for the side and rear molding kit.
Look close at photos of the front end from an angle and compare to pictures of your car, split screen.
It's not a simple bolt on application.
By the time your lease is up, swapping them for an original set will be just that...a swap. Someone would be a fool to give you any money for them just because they have been chromed with the miles you'll have on them by then. Good luck!
Yes...it is a simple bolt on application.
The front, with the grill is another issue :sick:
Good luck, let us know how it goes :shades:
I then purchased Michelin Alpin ( also 235/55-17 ) snow tires and had them mounted on the original Azera wheels. While winter tires are probably not really necessary in your location, they will provide added security if you want to maintain a quick pace on snowy roads. I found the stock Azera tires just adequate in snow. With many years of experience, I would not recommend chrome wheels for winter use - salt will take its toll.
The cost of the new chrome wheels and the Michelin snow tires was about $1600 mounted, and the store where I got the snow tires rotates them with the summer set for free each season.
Whatever you decide, be especially watchful as to the weight of the aftermarket wheels and tires you purchase - it is very important to ride, braking, and acceleration. Lighter is better.
Try the following link for a pic of my Azera.
http://www.carspace.com/cobrazera/Albums/cobrazera's Album/IMG_0618.jpg/page/photo.html#pic
The front is just a piece that is added to the lower portion. The grille (sold separately)...I've heard is a bit tricky to replace, but it can be done without too much drama.
I'm not exactly sure when I'll be getting it, I've gotta start saving up my lunch money to get this one.
$1600 for some 17's with tires!!! :surprise:
I can tell you...with the 20's I got...I haven't had any issues with braking, handling or acceleration. I actually like how it tracks on curves and how it handles corners even better now. The body roll is a bit less than with stock wheels & tires.
Now you got me thinking about sending mine out to get chromed so I can keep a chromed look year round!
Winter! What are you guys talking about? It's 80 degrees and sunny in the winter, here in Florida.
It's the damn hurricanes that we are concerned about in the summer.
The whole car blows away, wheels included.
The whole car blows away, wheels included."
Look on the bright side Bob, your Azera has ESC to put it back on it's "intended path"
Mine is an SE with the 17 inch option.
Also, what is the width of the factory 16 inch wheel that is the standard wheel on the SE and the GLS.
Has anyone tried size 255/50-17 on the 17 inch factory wheels?
Tire Diameter Calculator
Based on what you're asking...the difference would be minimal. However, the only question remaining is...would the 255 be too wide when it comes to width because you would need fender clearance when you turn and also on the rear tires if you were to hit a bump or something...when the tire travels up, would it scrape the inside of the rear fender.
Personally...I have 245/35-20's on my Azera now and I believe the 255 would be a hair too wide for the Azera. I'm not a tire specialist, so I could be wrong, but from what I see sitting on mine...245 is the widest you might want to go.
from the listings for the different brands and sizes from the TireRack.
But IF the factory wheel widths are not wide enough to properly support the sidewalls . . . :confuse:
Therein lies 'el problemo!'
As it is now, my new car travels approximately two (2) percent further than what the odometer shows. :surprise:
Something to factor in for those of us that figure actual fuel mileages the 'old fashion way.'
Speedometer is spot on, and as close as I have ever seen! :surprise:
Again . . anyone know the actual factory wheel widths? :confuse:
What are you utilizing to measure your distances to determine your odometer is 2% off?
So are you looking for a tire width or a wheel width? I believe the factory WHEEL width is 7".
What do you mean by the wheel width not being wide enough to properly support the sidewall???
"My concern with what you're asking is that the factory tire width is 9.25" wide, but the
size you're proposing is .79" inch wider. I really do see that 3/4" being a problem."
It shouldn't be a problem as only half of that .8 inch increase (section width, not tread width)
or .4 will be to the inside. I once widened some rear wheels 1 1/2 inches (all to the inside)
and went from size 255/50-17 to 315/35-17 and experienced no problems.
I have closely checked the rears, but haven't done the fronts yet. Plenty of room for that extra width there.
You still have extra room for the rears on your car, correct?
"What are you utilizing to measure your distances to determine your odometer is 2% off?"
The mile post markers on any interstate highway.
It is possible in Southern California to check your odometer in the Worlds' largest county (San Bernardino)
for over 186 miles along the I-15 from the I-60 all the way to the Cal-Nevada state line.
"So are you looking for a tire width or a wheel width? I believe the factory WHEEL width is 7."
Thanks. Wheel width. Was hoping for a minimum of 7 1/2 inches but 7 inches will work.
"What do you mean by the wheel width not being wide enough to properly support the sidewall???"
It's usually best if the wheel is wide enough so that the sidewall in not bowed either in or out.
Taking your tire width of 9.65 inches, you would not want to try and mount it on a wheel that was less than seven inches wide would you? How wide are your 20 inch wheels?
BTW, using your Information Center calculator, your smaller than stock diameter ( I assume you started with 235-55-17s??) should make your ododmeter almost if not exactly spot on for the odometer function.
Speedometer is close also at only one mile per hour short.
You used interstate mileage markers??? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...I thought you were going to say you strapped one of those single wheeled units to the side of your car to check it out. I would HARDLY go by mileage markers in California since things such as earthquakes would mean the plates are shifting and other things such as mileage markers shift as well. Maybe you need to find another means of comparing your odometer that can be more precise and exact before claiming a -2% difference in your reading. However...2% really isn't that bad to be honest. Your odometer tells you that you've driven 100 miles, but in actuality...you've only done 98.
What I'm trying to explain too you is that I have a tire that's 245 and there isn't much breathing room for much more. What I mean is that if the wheel travels upward, it's JUST clearing the inside of the fender. I was thinking 255's myself, but after seeing that...245's are fine by me. With the front, you run into an issue of needing clearance when the tires are turned.
I really don't know WHY you would want to jump up to a 255 on a 17" wheel. One issue is that the sidewall would bow out more and you would get more lean in your tires on curves and turns. Not exactly an appealing trait when it comes to handling. If you were putting the 255 on an 8" wide wheel, that would work much better as the sidewall woudn't bow out as much.
Also, the point you made about section width...if you're putting the 255 on a 7" wide wheel, the bow out would be much greater, creating an even wider section width.
My 20" rims are 8.5" wide.
You know what though, in the interest of wanting to know...I say go for it my good man. Go buy you a set of 255/50-17's and put them on and see what happens and report back here with your findings.
The only way you're gonna find out if it's feasible to switch to a 255/50-17 tire is to try it. If you fail, well...I guess you can say that's money well spent on a lesson learned the hard way.
If 255 was a viable option for the Azera (regardless of rim width), then tire shops and aftermarket wheel shops would tell you as such. However...everyone I spoke to when I shopped for the new wheels said that 255 wasn't an option due to clearance issues. Take it for what it's worth and save your money and stop trying to get water from a rock!
The factory recommended 30 PSI is fine for a smooth ride,
but when driving at speed, that is not nearly enough.
For the many that do not understand this, or want to doubt what I am saying,
try buying your own gauge and inflating your tires cold
(Check 'em in the early AM when they have not been driven and haven't been exposed to the sun)
to 37 PSI and take your car for a spin out on the interstate.
Maximum PSI as printed on the sidewalls of our michelins is 44 PSI. For me that's too much.
But 37 PSI seems about right.
Your car will ride a little harder, but it will also 'feel' so much better as far as the responsiveness
and 'free' feeling is concerned. You must do this to experience what I am talking about.
Also, inflating them with pure nitrogen is helpful also, but that is another subject.
My car drives like crap with tire pressure over 33 PSI. The tires are very noisy at the higher pressure and the front end seems like it wants to wander.
Perhaps you are right, although the tire wear appears even, and the car does not pull. My tire pressure is maintained at 32PSI.
I'm waiting to see if they (dealership) do anything with the struts or other suspension modification, then have an alignment performed.
It's the old American car system-tell the customer to underinflate for a softer ride since he has to pay for the tires when they wear out.
I keep my Azera at 32 for now, but once a month I check the tread wear (depth) pattern. Using Lincoln's head on a penny.
Also, I heard experts on the radio say that most cars today never need an alignment unless you hit something really, really hard with the front wheels or have an accident.
Still liking my 2007 a lot, but plan is to trade in 09/10. Thinking about a Genesis, but think I'll wait until they have been on the road at least four years.
I also requested that they program my door locks to unlock when in park and lock when out of park. I also requested that they program the "easy exit" which the service manager hadn't heard of. He indicated that each programming would cost about $47. I asked if he could do it as a courtesy. He said he couldn't. While wandering around I ran into the sales manager and mentioned the cost. He said "no problem" and went into the service bay.He came out and told me the problem was taken care of but that I should see him before I request something from service. When I saw the service manager I apologized if I got him into trouble. He said that it was ok and that sales was paying. He sat me in the car and demonstrated the programmed locks and easy exit. He also told me to release the key as soon as I saw the tach needle begin to move. Total cost $33.82. I was very satified with the experience.
The dealership is Jenkins Hyundai in Bradenton, FL.
When I went in for an oil change, I asked them to reprogram the limp home code and the door locks from what I had originally requested. When I asked about a charge, they said none.
During the re-progamming the car's computer crashed and even with Hyundai on the line, they could not get it back up. They ordered one by overnight and provided a rental car from Enterprise.
Next day, I picked up my car, everything was fine and they even gave me a 10% discount on the oil change.
Upstate Hyundai, Anderson SC.
I have an alignment fellow that I use who has been around for a long time.
He's got to be in his mid sixties. A Real youngster!
When we go to him, he takes the vehicle for a short drive and comes back and immediately drives onto
the rack and barks out orders to the men in the pit as to what is needed. "Take 3/8s out of the . . . etc.
He seems to feel exactly what is going on and to know what adjustments will correct what he is feeling!
One of the first things he insists on that they must do is to inflate the tires to the maximum pressure
as stated on the sidewalls. He would prefer that the customer leaves the tires at that high pressure (44PSI)
but agrees that anything over what the car manufacture recommends is sort of okay. Goes out again.
He continues this up until he is completely satisfied and then, and only then do the
boys in the pit circle the front tires with chalk and do the 'toe-in' adjustment.
He then takes it out once more, and if everything is just right, the car is finished.
He has done this now for us at least four times on different vehicles that I have taken
there, and does the entire extended family, and I've not heard any complaints.
These newer radial tires will not show any 'funny' or bad
wear characteristics unless the alignment is really off.
When we first got our Azera last month, it felt like it was off slightly and didn't seem to 'track' properly.
It was as if you had to fight it constantly to get it to continue straight. But after jacking up the
pressures from 30 psi to 37 psi and putting about 500 miles on the Michelins, that funny
business gradually disappeared, and now with 2500 miles, I do not feel the need for his
services at this time. He probably would change some adjustments slightly, but
as I'm completely satisfied with the way it drives now, why spend the money?
Your guru sounds great, but in the computer generation, most new shops have fairly sophisticated front end alignment equipment that does a pretty good indication to the technician the necessary numbers for the required adjustments.
The tech, of course, must be capable of operating the machine properly and making the indicated adjustments.
I believe that 44 PSI in Azera tires is way to high and will
provide a lousy ride with uneven traction and tire wear.
I even question 37 PSI. As I said before, the experts are saying we do not need as many alignments as we get. Today's vehciles just do not get out of alignment due to routine driving.
I couldn't disagree more with everything you have said!
One thing that I am sure of is that my "old" expert knows what he is doing and he surely knows more about the subject than yours' truly and everyone else on this forum combined for that matter. A person does not have a going business and thrive with a Bear franchise in Southern California unless he knows his business.
"One-two treads in reality." Give me a break please!
Why do you suppose that Michelin states right on the sidewalls of your tires that 44 PSI is permissible? :confuse:
I am an engineer for a major tire manufacturer and I used to be the guy who decided what pressure to stamp on the sidewall of the tires.
It used to be common for car manufacturers to use minimally sized tires and for tires to be stamped with the pressure that resulted in the maximum load carrying capacity - the 2 were one and the same.
That is no longer true. Many tires are stamped with a maximum pressure that takes into account high speed operation - such as on the Autobahn - and this pressure would be much higher than what should be used for normal operation.
Plus most car manufacturers are using tires that are much larger than is needed and then use lower pressures to get a better ride. The pressure the car manufacturers specify on the vehicle placard takes into account a wide variety of things including the weight of the vehicle. This pressure tends to be on the soft side, and adding a few psi is sometimes a good idea, but the disadvantage is that the ride quality deteriorates.
We're talking a few psi - 3 to 5. It makes no sense to take a vehicle that specifies 26 psi and run it at 44 psi.
What is stamped there is the "maximum"
Well, I am sorry that you are sorry, but ...
Since this man runs a going business and you do not, I will side with his expertise. :surprise:
30 PSI for my Azera is simply not enough, period. Go back and read my statements.
I did not say that I run 44 psi, only that he will always inflate the tires on each vehicle
that he aligns to the maximum stated on the sidewalls. He knows, and so do you, that
most people will not leave those pressures in their tires after they leave his shop.
But through experimenting with my sixty some odd vehicles over sixty years, I have
found that other than the recommended pressures are in most cases better.
And with our Azera, we spend a great deal of our time on the interstates at higher than the legal speed limits.
If you have one of these fine automobiles, you know that it is very easy to look down and
discover that you are up in the 90 mph range and even higher sometimes,
and you don't even realize it because there are people passing you!
30 psi even in these excellent Michelins is simply not enough at those speeds. BTW, we run nitrogen also.
Same thing with the Kona Focus. 30 is not enough. I run 39 psi in that vehicle.
Have you tried running a few extra pounds and if you have, don't you notice how much better the vehicle seems to roll and how much freer is feels? Not to mention the increased tire wear and longer life?
If you want the soft ride and shorter life and less fuel economy, plus poor handling,
go ahead and run 30 psi cold. But that's not for many of us!
We would be interested in knowing what tire manufacturer you work for? :confuse:
I took a car to a national alignment chain once for a 1/2 price alignment special. Before he even checked the alignment, he put it on a rack and told me I needed new ball joints. He didn't bother to notice that the odomoter showed 3,000 miles! 50,000 miles later I sold the car with the same ball joints on it.
My neighbor is an engineer for Michelin and he never runs his tires more than 5 PSI over the manufacturer's recommended and sometimes less.
Reminds me of the comment where the person said that the mile
posts here were not accurate because of the earthquakes.
See what I mean?
You all carry on now and believe whatever you like. Have fun and I wish you all luck!
What causes earthquakes? Shifting plates, right? When a plate shifts, doesn't that mean the ground above it is directly affected?
You keep thinking that the mile markers are 100% accurate. Next time you want to make a statement about your odometer being off, use an actual tool of measurement to prove it.
Then again, you just know everything...carry on genius!
Mike, I know that there are shifting plates deep underground.
But you don't live here in Southern California as I do!
If you did as I have for more than 71 years and were half as smart as you think you are, you would know
that were these plates to shift enough to move those posts enough to change the accuracy of those
measurements which I am sure were placed there by people who work for the Federal Government
which I am sure used accurate measure devises, there would be hugh breaks in the
earths' surface and sink holes big enough to swallow a truck.
Should this happen, I'm sure that you'd know about it being there in Washington D C.
As I said above, I've lived here all of more than 71 years, been all over, and I have never seen any cracks in the earths' surface here in California on any interstate that I have traveled. Also, on my yearly trips to my cottage on the Winnipeg River, I have checked numerous odometers with mile posts on many highways throughout the Western United States and Canada and therefore, I view your insulting statement about the mile posts not being accurate because California has shifting plates to be simply ignorance talking!
Oh, that's right. Canada measures their distances up yonder using kilometers.
Bet you don't know how to convert them over to miles though. Well I do. Oh, that's not accurate either?
Keep on digging yourself into your ignorance grave.
I stand by my statement that the mile posts are indeed accurate, especially on the interstates.
You, on the other hand, may doubt that all you want. But don't come on these forums
and show your ignorance about a subject you obviously know very little about.
I for one do agree.
Maybe someone that truly is an expert can straighten some of us out? :confuse:
The max pressure stamped on the sidewall will get you to the max load capacity for that tire. if your vehicle load is nowhere near that weight, then you can safely go lower to improve the ride, with more rolling resistance and less fuel economy as a result.
With a lightly loaded vehicle, I wouldn't hesitate to cruise all day at legal speeds with the manufacturers recommended pressure.
Ah..... not exactly.
There is not 100% agreement within the tire industry as to what should be printed on the sidewall. As you alluded to, load carrying capacity is tied to inflation pressure. But most tire manufacturers print on their sidewalls a value that not only includes enough presssure for the maximum load carrying capacity, but a bit more to account to special circumstances - like operation at hgh speed.
The exception seems to be the Michelin group (brand names Michelin, Uniroyal, and Goodrich), where their S and T rated tires show 35 (or 36) psi - most everyone else shows 44 psi, even though that load carrying capacities are the same.
If you will allow me some space to explain why I think the "old expert" isn't one, I think you will understand my position.
First is that using what is printed on the sidewall to set up a vehicle is just fine. The problem is driving on those pressures for the purposes of diagnosis. V and Z rated tires will have 51 psi stamped on the sidewall, and I've seen circumstances where the pressure specified by the vehicle manufacturer will be 29 psi. This is quite a difference (22 psi). If the vehicle manufacturer's pressure is never used in the diagnostic work, how can the test driver know what the vehicle is experiencing when the tire pressures are returned to that level? I point this out because the tread of an over inflated tire tends to arch and ride on the center ribs - and this could change where the footprint pressure is concentrated.
Further, I disagree that most folks will put the tire pressures back down to a different level when the vehicle is returned to the owner. I think that is giving the average owner too much credit. My experience has been that the vast majority of vehicle owners are clueless about tire pressures. As evidence, notice the many posts concerning new cars that ride rough when they leave the dealership - and the cause is the tire pressure used in shipping the car.
I am sure the "old expert" is conscientious and does good work, but I urge caution in accepting everything he says. While I would like to be have everything I say to remain unquestioned, I think it is unhealthy to believe that one indiviual possesses all the knowledge of the universe - including me.
Well said.
I'm sure the old expert is indeed doing what he does simply because he believes
that he can better determine what any said vehicle needs to be correctly aligned.
Why he would like the owner to leave those lofty higher pressures in their
tires is indeed a question that I will put to him the next time I see him.
For me, I would not run 44 psi for very long. Only until my car had sat in the garage overnight and
the tires were cold so I could adjust them to a lower pressure. I have a pencil type gauge that I
bought 55 years ago, but prefer my round faced gauge because it is much easier to use.
I recommend that all drivers use their own gauge as many that are in garages and filling stations
are not very accurate. Checking your tires when the tires are cold is not a bad idea either.
I always check pressure when cold and use a hand pump to add air before I move the car or the sun hits the tires.
My tires read max 51 PSI,but I seem to be getting good wear, control, economy, etc. at 32.
Don't you have an Azzy? Is yours with 16 inch wheels/tires?
Don't understand the 51 psi comment.
32 psi is certainly better than the factory recommended 30 psi!
It seems that Hyundai is mounting two different tires on our Azeras.
Mine has Energy S8s and their max. pressure is listed as 44PSI.