I actually came into this Forum looking for some info about putting Blizzak tires on my 2006 Azera, does anyone think it would be a good idea???? I live in Pennsylvania and travel back and forth across the state taking pictures and will be headed to Pittsburgh, PA in about two weeks for a event.....I know the ESC system works fine, but don;t want to get out in the Western part of the state in a lot of snow...And as far as the Azera, I LOVE IT!!!!!!!!! My wife has a 2007 Santa Fe and she LOVE HERS, but I get all kinds of good remarks about my car and the color is very distinct as well, deep purple, LOVE IT, thanks, Lou
RE:206, I live here in Pennsylvania and bought my 2006 Azera and got my wife a 2007 Santa Fe from the same dealer and they offer TIRES FOR LIFE with the stipulation that you bring it in for scheduled maintenance on time or as close as you can get it there....When they check your tires, they will gauge the tread length and go from there....And yes they will change your tires as long as you own the vehicle....Unfortunately, this program is not transferrable to another owner.....I have 18,000 miles on my Azera since 2006 (gave myself a nice Christmas present) so I still have the original tires on it, but thinking about Blizzaks for the winter......Any suggestions from anyone????? Thanks, Lou
I can only speak for myself. I do alot of travelling every year. My Territory is ALL of Quebec Province. We get snow up here....
I have always driven with winter tires on my cars. My first winter with the Azera I DID NOT use winter tires....LAST TIME! I have put winter tires this year and will NEVER go without winter tires again. It makes a big difference.
Fotomanlou...in my opinion, if your travels will take you into areas where substantial snowfall is a high probability, I don't think you can go wrong with snow tires at all. Down here in the DC Metro area, we get snowfall, but nothing heavy enough that I would worry about it, so the all season tires that came with it are fine for my needs. However....in your case, snow tires can be the difference between you making it where you need to get or ending up in a ditch or stuck somewhere until your car is found under a drift by an unsuspecting snow plow.
I didn't use winter tires last winter (record snow) in Denver, but the tires were brand new. And, I got along well without them, not to say they would not have been helpful on occasion. Typically, I have a second set of winter tires for my vehicles (usually studded). When it got too bad, we simply used the Explorer with all tires studded.
Several friends have had Blizzaks and they liked them very much, especially on ice. In deeper snow, my buds with true snow tires, thought they worked best. The only issue with Blizzaks is cost and the fact that when the softer rubber compound wears out, that they are not that great in snow or ice. If you have the bucks, I think Blizzaks or some of the other specialized tires (Hakkapelita's) are great. If you are going to be where there is a LOT of snow and or ice, I would go with regular snow tires (preferably studded, if laws permit). You might take a look at Hankook's, Korean made, and they have good prices and have performed very will for me.
My first winter with the Azera I DID NOT use winter tires....LAST TIME! I have put winter tires this year and will NEVER go without winter tires again. It makes a big difference. I agree. We found the snow traction with the original Michelins a bit squirelly. I put some of it down to the width of the OEM tires. We are running Michelin Alpin winter tires now ( still 235/55-17 ) and find them significantly better, although I think a narrower tire would be better yet. Modern winter tires, in addition to the more agressive tread, utilize rubber compounds that stay softer in cold weather. This, IMO, is at least as important as the tread pattern. Blizzaks used to use a dual compound which used a softer winter compound ( which wore away in one season ), then had a harder compound underneath. Supposedly you just left them on yearround and bought a new set the next winter. I don't know if the new ones are still that way - sounds like an expensive way to go. We have the Alpins on the OEM wheels and use the stock tires on chrome aftermarket wheels for the summer. Discount ( where we bought the Alpins ) does the twice yearly tire rotations for free.
CNN reported today that Consumers Union has released the results of a year long test comparing the use of nitrogen vs. compressed air in automobile tires. The results indicated only a minuscule difference in the pressure retained in the tires after one year. They also addressed the expansion issue explaining that under non extreme driving conditions, such as NASCAR racing, there would be no noticeable difference in tire pressures. In conclusion, they felt that if you could get it for free, accept it, but spending extra money for the Nitrogen inflation is not warranted.
The thing about filling tires with nitrogen that I never understand is that the air is already 80% nitrogen. Seriously, would anyone beleive that goin to 90%, 95%, or even 100% nitrogen would make any kind of difference?
Some of the new car dealers around here are selling cars with tires for as long as you own the car. Provided, you come in every three months and have them balance, rotate and align them - and pay for it.
Attention to those who have factory installed P235/55R17 98V MXV4 S8 Michelin tires.
The tires became quite noisy so I took them off to clean, remove small stones and inspect for wear. Wow :surprise: , to my surprise 'all' four tires had the same unusual problem. Chunks of rubber from the edges of the tread were 'literally' falling off. If you rubbed your hand over the surface small chunks fell off .
I called Michelin and per direction drove to a Michelin dealer. Seems this condition is 'new' and not seen or recognized.
Note: I do not drive on gravel roads, race, road course, drag race or subject said tires to any abuse. I typically rotate at least once every four to six weeks, check air pressure weekly. I do not use any type of tire cleaners or brighteners or solvents to clean the tires.
Bottom line, Michelin is replacing all four, pro-rating because they are two years old and have only 2/32's wear after 20K miles.
If you replace tires pay attention to the speed rating, 'V' up to 149 mph is required.
That's it, ya all have a good one now.
Trivia, three of the four factory mounted tires were inside out, no big deal, non-directional tires.
Interesting, I've got an '06 Azera with the Michelin tires and I haven't seen the issue you're mentioning.
I do use cleaners on my tires as well as tire shine products as well. I live in the DC Metro area, so the streets are less then desirable to drive on in most cases. However, really only drove on them from Feb. '06 to Oct. '06, then I put my aftermarket wheels on. I kept those on until Nov. '07 and then I put the factory wheels with the Michelins back on until this past weekend.
I guess the point I'm trying to make is that they have been sitting in my garage for a good amount of time and when I put them back on...there were no problems.
Could have been a bad batch of tires, sorry to hear Michelin is doing a pro-rated deal instead of just replacing them since it would be on them.
I'm confused by your trivia though. If the tires are non-directional, then how can the tires be mounted inside out? I know in some cases, you can chose blackwall or whitewall side out (some tires) and other tires, if they're non-directional...doesn't matter how they are put on. :confuse:
V rated tires would only be required if you are traveling faster than H rated tires. For that matter, S rated tires are good for 112 MPH are are probably fine for well over 95% of drivers.
My 06 Azera Ltd. needs new tires(17") 30,000 miles. Want quiet tires, with good performance and decent wear. Not driving over 90 mph. I live in FL, therefore snow is not a concern. Any good ideas?
Since you're mature and don't go over 90 mph, consider "S" or "H" rated tires. Try the TireRack. See: http://www.tirerack.com/
Read the surveys, etc. Plenty of information there.
Consider the Kumho line. The Solus KH16 (so'lus) is KUMHO's Grand Touring All-Season tire and is only $119 and has the same wear rating (440) as your original Michelins.
Or the Michelin Primacy MXV4s. Michelin's Grand Touring All-Season tires at $158, but look at the treadwear rating . . (620). Bet you'll get 60K miles. In fact, Costco guarantees them for 60K miles.
BTW, are your original S8s gone at only 30K miles?
They have many different tires available at great prices and all the data you'll need ( including consumer reviews ) to make the decision on exactly what you need. Based upon a quick examination, I would choose either the General Altimax HP, or the Goodyear Response Edge for your usage. General is owned by Continental and is no longer the " good only for rim protector " tire it once was. Either of the two mentioned are less than $120 each.
Another thing you might want to consider...take a look at the tires on Tirerack.com and see what they offer and check the ratings out. Then, check out Online Tires and see if they carry the same model...most of the time...it's for less.
RE: 219 Thanks for reply. No, the tires are well from gone, and could probably get at least another 5-10,000 miles. I am paranoid about having good tread on my tires.
Correct, 'H' tires vs. 'S' have a lower speed rating and are cheaper as are many other 17" tires and the choice is yours alone to make.
Question is, the 'S' tires by design will provide steering response per the car design requirements in an emergency that the 'H' tire cannot match, so do you wish to be safe or do you feel lucky?
What is the lowest profile and widest tread that can fit on the Azera 17" wheels?? 235/55/17 are factory sizes...Could you fit a 235 or 240 / 45/17 on the factory wheels and still have good clearance and minimum sidewall bulge??
However, if you drop to a 245/45-17...you effectively have changed the overall diameter of your wheel and tire. If you plug in various tire sizes in comparison to the OEM size...you can see how the dimensions change and it also tells you how your speedometer will be affected as well.
I've used the calculator and am not worried about the speedo....Main concern is wheelwell clearance and bulge associated with the 7 in rims...Sidewall and bead intregretity can be compromised by mounting a wider tire with lower profile on the stock rim..
Both the 235/45 or 245/45 sizes require a minimum 7.5 inch rim width.
You probaly could "get-away" with running either size on our 7 inch wide wheels, but why would you want to try? :confuse:
I once ran a tire on the rear of my LT4 'Vette that required a 10 inch minimum rim width but the Vette had only 9.5 inch wide wheels on the back and they did bulge ever so slightly. Didn't hurt anything, and did help with the wheel-spin problem I was experiencing on launch.
I think Mahout runs wider tires for the track but I don't know what wheels he uses.
A little background here. My Scion xB is in the shop. I got an Azera for my rental and LOVE it. Seriously considering selling the xB for one and have several dealers looking for the "right" one. Anyway, I was wondering if the Azera's gas mileage might benefit by going from a 235 wide to 225. The mileage difference between 185 (stock) and 195 (cheaper and more available) on my xB is about 10%. Would that also apply to the Azera, or do you think the difference on my Scion is attributed to the VERY weak engine fighting a teeny bit more rolling resistance/friction? Has anyone here tried downsizing their tread width?
do you think the difference on my Scion is attributed to the VERY weak engine fighting a teeny bit more rolling resistance/friction? I'd have to agree with that, but remember, too, that the taller tire would make your odometer read a bit low - you've actually traveled more miles than it says. The cheaper tire you went to could also mean more rolling resistance due to its cheapness. With all the excess power of the Azera, I don't think it has much of a problem pulling the 235 tire around, and IMO, you would see a decrease in mileage due to the 225 width tire not being as tall, effectively lowering your gearing.
Cobrazera...I can vouch for the fact that the Azera doesn't have any problems pulling around 245's either. I've got 245/35-20's on my Azera. The overall diameter is pretty close to OEM, but not dead on. Isn't the first number in a tire size the width of the tire with a very small percentage of that affecting overall tire height?
The first number is the section width ( in millimeters ). The second is the "aspect ratio " - the ratio of the height to the width. The third number is the wheel diameter ( in inches ). To find the total tire height: multiply the width by the aspect ratio, then multiply by 2 since there are are 2 of those heights in the total height of the tire. Then convert that answer to inches by dividing by 25.4. Now add the wheel diameter and you've got it. Your 245/35-20 works out to 26.75" tall, while the stock Azera 235/55-17 is 27.18" tall. A bit more math will give your tire revolutions per mile, but you can find that by going to tirerack.com and looking at the specs for the size. Yours have 780 revs/mile, and the stockers have only 760 revs/mile. Asleep yet? Anyway, you're gearing is effectively a bit lower than stock since your engine is revving higher at any given speed.
You could go crazy doing all that, or you can simply visit the site below, plug in some numbers and all the calculations are done automatically. It allows you to compare the OEM tire size to potential aftermarket sizes you wish to try. This is what I used when I sought out a tire for the wheel package I put on my Azera.
I just stopped by my local dealer to get my driver's seat adjustment switch replaced and found out that they now offer chromed factory wheels as a dealer add-on. Currently, they are only offering it for the Azera, Sonata & Santa Fe. It's about doggone time!!!
I purchased my 06 Azera Ultra Limited 03-07 and had the factory chromed wheels installed at the time of purchase. I think they look good on the steel gray. Purchased was made from a small town Texas dealer.
Crazy how much of a mark up the dealer ads, huh? I called the other day to find out how much a replacement bulb would cost for my burnt out fog light...$27.00 for a single bulb. I was able to order a pair (including s&h) for the same price. When I got a tune up done on my '02 Sonata...they wanted $8/spark plug (regular Champion plugs). Went to AutoZone and paid under $2/plug. It truly doesn't surprise me at all.
Plugs for my Santa Fe (platinum) @ the dealer were $16 each...Allmet, when you relpaced your driving lamps, did you remove the front wheels and access thru the wheel well liners??? Hyundai service manual suggests that you remove the front bumper assembly....
WOW!!! Next time ask them what kind of plugs they are using and go get 'em yourself...you'll save enough to fill your tank!!!
I'm waiting for the bulbs to come in now, but a buddy of mine with an Azera replaced his and he said he accessed them thru the wheel well. All he did was turn the wheel in on the side he was working on, undid the panel and did whatever needed to be done...he said it's pretty easy.
The service manual suggest you remove the entire headlight housing just to replace a bulb there too...CRAZY!!! :confuse:
Hi all. I'm new to this site and a new hyundai owner.
About 3 months ago i purchase a used 06 azera limited. It already had 35K on it. I went in for oil change and was told the front tires were worn, so since i had a new full size spare I first rotated the bad tires to the rear and the good ones to the front to hold until the new tire came in. I ordered 1 tire from sears and put the new one one the back. After the initial rotation and balancing, i've been hearing this very, very, annoying sound (A whoo whoo whoo) kind where i can hear when the tires are rotating. This is at fast and low speeds. I took it back to the dealer he said I need an alignment. Okay I got an alignment and have since then done 900 miles and STILL hear this sound. I'm looking to just buy a new set of tires, get another alignment, balance etc... But wanted to know why i'm still hearing this sound. Could it be that I should put the less worn rear tires (1 fully new and 1 new full size spare) in the front and see what happens?
I currently have all 4 tires oem and am thinking of buying another brand (particularly the Toyo proxes tpt) does anyone have any sound suggestions/recommendations as to what the problem could/is? mind you I just brought the car and only go to and from work with is 10miles total and on occasion to see my mother about 30 mins away.
Got to wonder if the sound isn't the tires at all, but might be a bit of wheel well weather trim that got accidently loosened when the wheels went back and forth and it's the trim that's alternately catching and releasing the breeze. Months back, when I ran over a complete wheel on the interstate, it ripped away part of the trim and loosened some more that fluttered in the breeze when I drove...
My uncle and I thought the same thing and I went and brought the guard assembly from the dealer, had it installed and the same day heard the sound. So I'm not sure.
When I initially went to the dealer about the noise he showed me that my tires weren't wearing properly thus prompting the alignment. He said that it should a couple weeks and or about 200 or so miles to even out. but almost 1000 miles later still no solution. I just it's not worse than what It could be. I'm going to take it to the dealer soon again b/c i can't deal with the noise :mad:
Thanks for your input though. I'll check that out again who knows :confuse:
It would seem to this writer that you have answered your own question! :surprise:
Tires generally speaking do not 'get better' by themselves. Once cupped, that's it. They do not get better in "a couple weeks and or about 200 or so miles to even out." The very fact that he uses time tell me he is fishing and simply doesn't know what he is talking about.
Do you have a Costco in your area? If so, try them. I will bet you have one or more cupped tires, and with cupped tires, only something that doesn't seem to be done much any more will even them out. :surprise: The proceedure is called shaving or tire truing. The tires are shaved down until the tread is even, and from what you are saying, there has to be one or more that is cupped to badly for that to help.
Stay away from that dealer and go directly to a good tire shop. He is full of baloney. :sick:
Let us know what the problem turns out to be? :confuse: Good luck. :shades:
Thanks soo much. In fact, Costo is 5 mins away. I'll be going this week and asking them about the Shaving of the tires. I sure hope they can do it. Thanks again!
You will have to call around to try and locate a place that still does. By the time you pay for shaving and find that you do not have any tread left, you are better off replacing the tire(s). There really is no other way.
Once tires get cupped that badly, I know of no other way. You simply have to bite the bullet and replace the bad tire(s) or live with the noise.
Why would you pay someone to remove tread from your tires, effectively shortening the life of the tires??? Also, if your tires are THAT worn after 35K miles, there's something terribly wrong.
Hate to say it, but you're better off shelling out the dough for 2 new tires and putting the spare back in it's place. If the tires were cupped, that would indicate under-inflation, so just make sure you keep the tire pressure in check to avoid that problem down the road.
Comments
I do alot of travelling every year. My Territory is ALL of Quebec Province.
We get snow up here....
I have always driven with winter tires on my cars.
My first winter with the Azera I DID NOT use winter tires....LAST TIME!
I have put winter tires this year and will NEVER go without winter tires again. It makes a big difference.
Hope this helps.
Happy, safe travels!!! :shades:
Several friends have had Blizzaks and they liked them very much, especially on ice. In deeper snow, my buds with true snow tires, thought they worked best. The only issue with Blizzaks is cost and the fact that when the softer rubber compound wears out, that they are not that great in snow or ice. If you have the bucks, I think Blizzaks or some of the other specialized tires (Hakkapelita's) are great. If you are going to be where there is a LOT of snow and or ice, I would go with regular snow tires (preferably studded, if laws permit). You might take a look at Hankook's, Korean made, and they have good prices and have performed very will for me.
I have put winter tires this year and will NEVER go without winter tires again. It makes a big difference.
I agree. We found the snow traction with the original Michelins a bit squirelly. I put some of it down to the width of the OEM tires. We are running Michelin Alpin winter tires now ( still 235/55-17 ) and find them significantly better, although I think a narrower tire would be better yet.
Modern winter tires, in addition to the more agressive tread, utilize rubber compounds that stay softer in cold weather. This, IMO, is at least as important as the tread pattern.
Blizzaks used to use a dual compound which used a softer winter compound
( which wore away in one season ), then had a harder compound underneath. Supposedly you just left them on yearround and bought a new set the next winter. I don't know if the new ones are still that way - sounds like an expensive way to go.
We have the Alpins on the OEM wheels and use the stock tires on chrome aftermarket wheels for the summer. Discount ( where we bought the Alpins ) does the twice yearly tire rotations for free.
The results indicated only a minuscule difference in the pressure retained in the tires after one year. They also addressed the expansion issue explaining that under non extreme driving conditions, such as NASCAR racing, there would be no noticeable difference in tire pressures.
In conclusion, they felt that if you could get it for free, accept it, but spending extra money for the Nitrogen inflation is not warranted.
The thing about filling tires with nitrogen that I never understand is that the air is already 80% nitrogen. Seriously, would anyone beleive that goin to 90%, 95%, or even 100% nitrogen would make any kind of difference?
Attention to those who have factory installed P235/55R17 98V MXV4 S8 Michelin tires.
The tires became quite noisy so I took them off to clean, remove small stones and inspect for wear. Wow :surprise: , to my surprise 'all' four tires had the same unusual problem. Chunks of rubber from the edges of the tread were 'literally' falling off. If you rubbed your hand over the surface small chunks fell off
I called Michelin and per direction drove to a Michelin dealer. Seems this condition is 'new' and not seen or recognized.
Note: I do not drive on gravel roads, race, road course, drag race or subject said tires to any abuse. I typically rotate at least once every four to six weeks, check air pressure weekly. I do not use any type of tire cleaners or brighteners or solvents to clean the tires.
Bottom line, Michelin is replacing all four, pro-rating because they are two years old and have only 2/32's wear after 20K miles.
If you replace tires pay attention to the speed rating, 'V' up to 149 mph is required.
That's it, ya all have a good one now.
Trivia, three of the four factory mounted tires were inside out, no big deal, non-directional tires.
I do use cleaners on my tires as well as tire shine products as well. I live in the DC Metro area, so the streets are less then desirable to drive on in most cases. However, really only drove on them from Feb. '06 to Oct. '06, then I put my aftermarket wheels on. I kept those on until Nov. '07 and then I put the factory wheels with the Michelins back on until this past weekend.
I guess the point I'm trying to make is that they have been sitting in my garage for a good amount of time and when I put them back on...there were no problems.
Could have been a bad batch of tires, sorry to hear Michelin is doing a pro-rated deal instead of just replacing them since it would be on them.
I'm confused by your trivia though. If the tires are non-directional, then how can the tires be mounted inside out? I know in some cases, you can chose blackwall or whitewall side out (some tires) and other tires, if they're non-directional...doesn't matter how they are put on. :confuse:
Want quiet tires, with good performance and decent wear.
Not driving over 90 mph.
I live in FL, therefore snow is not a concern.
Any good ideas?
Bob,
Since you're mature and don't go over 90 mph, consider "S" or "H" rated tires.
Try the TireRack. See: http://www.tirerack.com/
Read the surveys, etc. Plenty of information there.
Consider the Kumho line. The Solus KH16 (so'lus) is KUMHO's Grand Touring All-Season
tire and is only $119 and has the same wear rating (440) as your original Michelins.
Or the Michelin Primacy MXV4s. Michelin's Grand Touring All-Season
tires at $158, but look at the treadwear rating . . (620).
Bet you'll get 60K miles. In fact, Costco guarantees them for 60K miles.
BTW, are your original S8s gone at only 30K miles?
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=GTAS&width=23- - 5%2F&ratio=55&diameter=17&tireSearch=true
They have many different tires available at great prices and all the data you'll need ( including consumer reviews ) to make the decision on exactly what you need.
Based upon a quick examination, I would choose either the General Altimax HP, or the Goodyear Response Edge for your usage.
General is owned by Continental and is no longer the " good only for rim protector " tire it once was. Either of the two mentioned are less than $120 each.
Thanks for reply.
No, the tires are well from gone, and could probably get at least another 5-10,000 miles.
I am paranoid about having good tread on my tires.
Question is, the 'S' tires by design will provide steering response per the car design requirements in an emergency that the 'H' tire cannot match, so do you wish to be safe or do you feel lucky?
235/55/17 are factory sizes...Could you fit a 235 or 240 / 45/17 on the factory wheels and still have good clearance and minimum sidewall bulge??
I think you meant 245/45/17? There is no 240 width.
Yes, Mahout has done so already. Only 10 mm wider . . not even .4 of an inch.
However that sure will thrown your speedomter/odometer off.
Tire Size Calculator
However, if you drop to a 245/45-17...you effectively have changed the overall diameter of your wheel and tire. If you plug in various tire sizes in comparison to the OEM size...you can see how the dimensions change and it also tells you how your speedometer will be affected as well.
Good luck!
Thanks
Both the 235/45 or 245/45 sizes require a minimum 7.5 inch rim width.
You probaly could "get-away" with running either size on
our 7 inch wide wheels, but why would you want to try? :confuse:
I once ran a tire on the rear of my LT4 'Vette that required a 10 inch minimum rim width but
the Vette had only 9.5 inch wide wheels on the back and they did bulge ever so slightly.
Didn't hurt anything, and did help with the wheel-spin problem I was experiencing on launch.
I think Mahout runs wider tires for the track but I don't know what wheels he uses.
HTHs
I'd have to agree with that, but remember, too, that the taller tire would make your odometer read a bit low - you've actually traveled more miles than it says. The cheaper tire you went to could also mean more rolling resistance due to its cheapness.
With all the excess power of the Azera, I don't think it has much of a problem pulling the 235 tire around, and IMO, you would see a decrease in mileage due to the 225 width tire not being as tall, effectively lowering your gearing.
To find the total tire height: multiply the width by the aspect ratio, then multiply by 2 since there are are 2 of those heights in the total height of the tire. Then convert that answer to inches by dividing by 25.4. Now add the wheel diameter and you've got it.
Your 245/35-20 works out to 26.75" tall, while the stock Azera 235/55-17 is 27.18" tall.
A bit more math will give your tire revolutions per mile, but you can find that by going to tirerack.com and looking at the specs for the size. Yours have 780 revs/mile, and the stockers have only 760 revs/mile. Asleep yet?
Anyway, you're gearing is effectively a bit lower than stock since your engine is revving higher at any given speed.
link title
I had my OEM's exchanged in chrome from a local tire retailer in Oct. '06 at $607.06 otd, including balancing and nitrogen fill.
I'm waiting for the bulbs to come in now, but a buddy of mine with an Azera replaced his and he said he accessed them thru the wheel well. All he did was turn the wheel in on the side he was working on, undid the panel and did whatever needed to be done...he said it's pretty easy.
The service manual suggest you remove the entire headlight housing just to replace a bulb there too...CRAZY!!! :confuse:
About 3 months ago i purchase a used 06 azera limited. It already had 35K on it. I went in for oil change and was told the front tires were worn, so since i had a new full size spare I first rotated the bad tires to the rear and the good ones to the front to hold until the new tire came in. I ordered 1 tire from sears and put the new one one the back. After the initial rotation and balancing, i've been hearing this very, very, annoying sound (A whoo whoo whoo) kind where i can hear when the tires are rotating. This is at fast and low speeds. I took it back to the dealer he said I need an alignment. Okay I got an alignment and have since then done 900 miles and STILL hear this sound. I'm looking to just buy a new set of tires, get another alignment, balance etc... But wanted to know why i'm still hearing this sound. Could it be that I should put the less worn rear tires (1 fully new and 1 new full size spare) in the front and see what happens?
I currently have all 4 tires oem and am thinking of buying another brand (particularly the Toyo proxes tpt) does anyone have any sound suggestions/recommendations as to what the problem could/is? mind you I just brought the car and only go to and from work with is 10miles total and on occasion to see my mother about 30 mins away.
Thanks and I'm glad I found this site
When I initially went to the dealer about the noise he showed me that my tires weren't wearing properly thus prompting the alignment. He said that it should a couple weeks and or about 200 or so miles to even out. but almost 1000 miles later still no solution. I just it's not worse than what It could be. I'm going to take it to the dealer soon again b/c i can't deal with the noise :mad:
Thanks for your input though. I'll check that out again who knows :confuse:
It would seem to this writer that you have answered your own question! :surprise:
Tires generally speaking do not 'get better' by themselves. Once cupped, that's it.
They do not get better in "a couple weeks and or about 200 or so miles to even out."
The very fact that he uses time tell me he is fishing and simply doesn't know what he is talking about.
Do you have a Costco in your area? If so, try them. I will bet you have one or more cupped tires, and with cupped tires, only something that doesn't seem to be done much any more will even them out. :surprise:
The proceedure is called shaving or tire truing. The tires are shaved down until the tread is even, and
from what you are saying, there has to be one or more that is cupped to badly for that to help.
Stay away from that dealer and go directly to a good tire shop. He is full of baloney. :sick:
Let us know what the problem turns out to be? :confuse: Good luck. :shades:
Sorry, but Costco does not shave tires.
You will have to call around to try and locate a place that still does.
By the time you pay for shaving and find that you do not have any tread left,
you are better off replacing the tire(s). There really is no other way.
Once tires get cupped that badly, I know of no other way.
You simply have to bite the bullet and replace the bad tire(s) or live with the noise.
Hate to say it, but you're better off shelling out the dough for 2 new tires and putting the spare back in it's place. If the tires were cupped, that would indicate under-inflation, so just make sure you keep the tire pressure in check to avoid that problem down the road.