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Technical Service Bulletins



  • 2006 dodge 1500 4x4 front wheel bearing replacement. Question: How do I remove the three bolts that hold the bearing in place? Do I have to remove the controls at the ball joints? I am not able to get a socket on the bolts because the axle shaft is in the way.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Why don't you post this one in Answers so that we can get more people working on it. That venue is perfect for a one-time question like yours:

    then if you'd like to come back to Forums and talk to other Dodge truck owners, you can go here (save this link):

    Ram Pickup 1500 Topics
  • lbmcajunlbmcajun Posts: 4
    Anyone know where I can get a copy of this TSB ?

    Also, anyone else had the check engine light come on, indicating (according to the dealer) that the knock sensor is not working properly ?

    RE: 2008 Lucerne CXL

  • scandiakenscandiaken Posts: 11
    Has anybody got a cure for my inability to read the instrument panel on the 2008 Lucerne in the daytime? I cannot believe that Buick has not put out a service bulletin on this problem. Surely there is a fix of some kind. Thanks for your help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Which engine?

    Also that's not the nomenclature that the factory uses for TSBs. That must be some other website's tracking number, like I'm posting for the other member in the next post
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    this is the only TSB I found that even comes remotely close to your problem, but it doesn't quite sound like what you are experiencing. There's nothing else I can see on the list unless it's a brand new TSB just out:

    Bulletin No.: 02-06-03-008C

    Date: May 30, 2007

    Low Voltage Display on IP Gauge, Lights Dim at Stop Lights, Battery Discharged, No Start, Slow Cranking, Dim Lights at Idle, Low Generator Output

    1990-2008 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
    2003-2008 HUMMER H2, H3
    2005-2008 Saab 9-7X


    This bulletin is being revised to add the 2008 model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-06-03-008B (Section 06 - Engine).

    Any vehicle may have a low voltage display (if equipped with gauges), lights that dim at stop lights, slow cranking, no start, low generator output at idle or dim lights at idle when electrical loads are heavy at idle or under slow driving or infrequent usage conditions. These characteristics may be more noticeable with customer added electrical accessories, or with a discharged battery. These are normal operating characteristics of a vehicle electrical system and no repairs should be attempted unless a proven fault has been diagnosed.

    During normal driving conditions, when engine speed is above 1000 RPM, the generator is designed to do two things:

    Supply the current necessary to operate the vehicle's originally equipped electrical devices (loads).

    Recharge/maintain the battery's state of charge.

    The following factors may affect generator and battery performance:

    Non-usage of the vehicle for extended periods of time. The vehicle's computers, clocks and the like will cause the battery state of charge to drop (For example; 30 days in a parking lot and the vehicle may not start because of a dead battery or a vehicle which is driven only a short distance once a week may end up with a discharged battery to the point where the vehicle may not start). This would be considered abnormal usage of the vehicle and the normally expected result for the vehicle battery, generator and electrical systems.

    At idle, vehicle electrical loads may exceed the low speed current (amperage) output of the generator and when this happens the shortfall comes from the battery. This will result in a drop in the electrical system voltage as the battery delivers the additional electrical current to meet the demand. This is equivalent to the brown outs experienced by homes and businesses when the electrical demand is more than the supply. See Figure 1.

    Extended periods of engine idling, with high electrical loads, may result in a discharged battery. Attempting to recharge a battery by letting the engine run at idle may not be beneficial unless all electrical loads are turned "OFF".

    Increased internal generator temperatures from extended idling can also contribute to lower electrical system voltage. As the generator's internal temperature rises, the generator's output capability is reduced due to increased electrical resistance.

    The table shown are some typical examples of electrical loads.

    Depending on the vehicle application, generator current (amperage) output at engine idle speeds of 600-700 RPM can be as low as 35 percent of the full rated output. With enough electrical loads "ON", it is easy to exceed the generator current (amperage) output when the engine is at an idle of 600-700 RPM. This is a normal condition. The battery supplements for short periods of time. Items that affect the vehicle's electrical system current and voltage at idle are the number of electrical loads being used, including add-on accessories, and extended idle times. When the vehicle speed is above approximately 24 km/h (15 mph), the engine/generator RPM is high enough and the generator current (amperage) output is sufficient to supply the current (amperage) requirements of the vehicle as originally equipped and recharge the battery.

    Dimming lights at idle may be considered normal for two reasons:

    As the engine/generator speed changes, so will the current (amperage) output of the generator. As a vehicle slows, engine/generator RPM slows, and the current (amperage) output of the generator may not be sufficient to supply the loads, the vehicle system voltage will drop and the lights will dim. Dimming of the lights is an indication that current is being pulled from the battery. If the battery is in a low state-of-charge (discharged condition), the driver will notice a more pronounced dimming than a vehicle with a fully charged battery.

    When high current loads (blower, rear defogger, head lamps, cooling fan, heated seats, power seats, electric "AIR" pump, or power windows) are operating or cycled "ON", the generator's voltage regulator can delay the rise in output. This effect, usually at lower engine speeds, can take up to ten seconds to ramp up the generator output. This is done to avoid loading the engine severely. To increase current (amperage) output, additional torque is consumed by the generator. The engine computer (PCM) will ramp up engine/generator speed in small steps so engine speed variations are not noticeable to the driver.

    For diagnosis of the battery and or the generator, refer to the appropriate Service Information or Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-03-002B.
  • scandiakenscandiaken Posts: 11
    Nope. That is not the problem us Lucerne owners are experiencing.

    In our case, there is no light at all on the instrument panel when
    driving without headlights during the day. It is probably
    exacerbated by the fact that the gauges are behind deep cylinders
    so the sun does not light them. When we turn off the engine,
    the lights light up wonderfully! I am quite sure it would be a small
    circuit board fix, if only someone would just develop it or identify
    it as being available.

    At night the dash lights are fine, and the reostat that adjusts them
    works just fine. I think it was just a design oversight.

    Thanks for your attempt to help.
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Posts: 228
    For a temporary fix could you turn on your parking lights?
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    There is a new high contrast intrument panel for your vehicle.
    If it is still under warranty, the new I/P should be covered.

    See this bulletin:

    Instruments - Difficult to View Cluster in Bright Light
    Bulletin No.: 06-08-49-021A
    Date: December 05, 2006
    Difficult To View Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Display When Driving Toward Bright Sunshine (Replace Instrument Panel Cluster)
    2006-2007 Buick Lucerne (U.S. and Export)
    Certain VIN breakpoints (see dealer)
    This bulletin is being revised to update the table of IPC part numbers. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-08-49-021 (Section 08 - Body & Accessories).
    Some customers may comment that the instrument panel cluster (IPC) display is difficult to see when driving toward bright sunshine.

    This condition may be caused by an insufficient color contrast in the IPC display.

    Technicians are to install a new IPC with a display that has improved color contrast. Refer to the Instrument Cluster Replacement procedure in SI for more information. The original IPC part number may be obtained using a Tech 2(R).
  • scandiakenscandiaken Posts: 11
    That sounds good. I will definitely share that info with my Buick Service Department.

    I am afraid it is too little to correct the problem, however. As far as I can tell there is NO ILLUMINATION on the instrument panel when driving without lights on. Turning the parking lights on halps a little (here is where the contrast could be inproved (I would say the lights should be brighter)). When the parking lights
    are on, the running lights go off. If the running lights are a safety factor, as I was
    led to believe, they should be on when driving.

    Thanks for the information.
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,655
    Is there a TSB that deals with headlights shutting off (ONLY in high beam mode) when turning on right turn signal?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    No I checked the list on ALLDATA, including new entries, and nothing like that.
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,655
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    That's a multi-function switch isn't it? (works directionals + lights?) If so that's where I'd look .
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,655
    Yes it is one of those 'does everything but butter your bread' switchs, and is most likely the culprit. I just don't want to replace it only to find the problem is some strange electronic malfuntion or due to streching a wire when in hi-beam mode. (plus of course it only happens once in a whle)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Well you'll spend as much time and money on a wire by wire diagnosis as you would taking a chance on this switch, seems to me. I hate to encourage "guessing" but in electrical matters, sometimes an educated guess is the best course IMO.
  • Thanks for the informative post on the p1811 shifting problems!!! very helpful!
  • kujothkujoth Posts: 1
    I found a TSB on, but how do I get the details of the bulletin?

    Bulletin Number: 111000
    Bulletin Date: Oct 2000
    Vehicle: 2,001 Chevrolet Cavalier

  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Its an NHTSA number, so you will likely have to play their game to get the info.
    It isn't in the manufacturer's database, so it is one of those numbers that NHTSA has pulled out of thin air.
  • Hi All,
    I am a new user to this site and just logged on tonight so hi to you all.
    Please can anyone help?
    I am in the UK. I have a 2002 Thunderbird. I just love it and it is a rare beast over here. Can anyone suggest where I can get a service manual from All traces so far have prooved fruitless. Haynes do not seem to do one. Do I have to go direct to Ford?

    Can anyone tell me how often the recommended service should be?
    What oil do you suggest.
    What air filter is best.
    It seems to "Smell" hot after a few blasts but not temperature wise. anyone know of any issues.
    Have been told to fit cool air intake . Any comments would be fantastic as you guys over the pond certainly know how to build your cars.
    By the way I am a total novice at all this - and even worse - I am female !! :D So I need all the help I can get. :confuse:
    Look forward to your comments.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    go to

    Sign up for a short length subscription, download and print whatever pieces you need/want.
  • Hi Kiawah,
    Thanks for the help.
    I will be back with lots of questions :)
  • :) Hi all - I have a 2001 intrepid r/t with 125,000 effortless miles. I recently have developed 2 reocurring issues:

    1. The inner tie rods I believe have a tsb for them

    2. code on computer basically saying "replace me."

    Does anyone know of tsb's for these issues. I am down and out on my luck financially due to job loss and would appreciate any help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Didn't find anything quite like that, searching a couple of databases. I presume you know of course that a TSB is only an advisory to a dealer and he is under no obligation to perform the task, and he can charge you for it at any rate.

    There is this one elusive TSB numbered bulletin Number: 1900101, march 2001, that I can't find any details about---something about clunks in the steering. This goes under NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 619127--so maybe you can go on the NHTSA site and track it down that way.

    I didn't see anything about a faulty computer, sorry.
  • I found the 1900101 also - it states that if there is play on the inner tie rod bushing's, it gives part numbers, tools and time needed to repair so I would assume that was covered.

    So basically if I can get the inner tr's done for free, it would almost be like a buy one, get one repair - I can deal with that.

    Besides having the dealer do the computer, I can pick one up for a song, and I gather I would just need the dealer to flash it with the correct mileage at time of install. No problem installing it myself - its under the fuse box on the drivers side under the hood. :sick:

    Thanks again - if anyone else has any ideas, please feel free to chime in
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 7,841
    Good luck in getting the dealer to do any type of service work other than a recall for free regardless whether you supplied the parts or not. Those TSBs probably would've been covered under the factory warranty. Once that expires they are under no obligation to fix it.
  • Well 3 responses to your good wishes obvone:

    1. The dealer that I bought the car from was an adiot. I got such a good deal on the car originally that I needed to run out the door and not ask questions. It was a 2001 purchased in 2003 with 6000 miles on it. It was a little ole lady back and forth to church car. $9,500 for a $24,000 car ain't too shabby.

    2. I have every single receipt for it since day 1 and the dodge dealer that I use already told me that he would do the itr's for free which was confirmed today.

    3. computer already purchased - dealer agreed to charge 1 hour labor to flash it.

    But anyway........... I appreciate the good wishes :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Well then the dealer is either doing it out of his own pocket, which is very nice, or maybe he has extra discretionary funding from the factory, given to dealers on the "A' list, but the TSB wouldn't allow this as "warranty" work. You are long past warranty---so this sounds like a good will settlement of some kind.
  • And because he did that, I am buying a new vehicle from hiim and trading in the intrepid. Thanks for the help!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    There you go---a win / win situation.
  • shagnatshagnat Posts: 78
    With a stinkin' GM product, it may be a multitude of things. Also, they'd rather you burn up in your car and pay the lawsuit than to recall 10K vehicles.
    Doing business with GM, et al is like dealing with the devil, you WILL get burned.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 7,841
    So what's new? Almost all the manufacturers look at it as a bottom line decision. Is it cheaper to pay the lawsuit or repair 4 million vehicles? Answer is simple. GM is not an isolated case.
  • shagnatshagnat Posts: 78
    Do you know what "el al" means? Look it up before you say the same thing I did, just you used many more words.
    Yep, most of the big businesses are just about the $$ and no concern for anything else; environment, employees, what's best for the customer, et al.
  • I"ve got a 2001 Honda Civic LX Coupe, 1.7L motor, (No side impact airbags)
    I've got a noise comign from the suspension that I can't quite figure out.. Springs look good, end links are good, control arm busihings are good. I"m trying to find more info on the below TSB"s for that car. My left strut needs replacement, but the noise is coming from the right, and I can't figure it out.. :cry:

    TSB: 03039 : NHTSA# 10003482, Apr 2004 -- This one for sure
    TSB: 01054: NHSTA #'s 627331, 623222, 624364 - This one too

    TSB: 5905 : NHSTA# 629541 Feb 02-- maybe this one
    TSB: 010101 NHTSA: 624152 -- not so much

    There are some other suspension TSB's for this model as well but most look like alingment spec adjustment's to the shop manual, and some replacement details

    I've checked out multiple sources and have not really been able to find anything that lists the offendign part / in/out of waranty repair qualification

    Obviously the car is out of waranty (Age not Mileage, Grandma's car, it only has 23k miles on it, which kills me that she's had a strut replaced and I need to replace at least 1 strut and whatever is broken on the right side)
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    edited April 2010
    I will tell you what I tell my customers..............
    First, repair the KNOWN problems.
    Those problems (the bad strut) will affect the entire front end.
    And don't rely to much on the NHTSA numbers and info. The manufacturer's information isn't the same as their's and often the manufacturer doesn't even consider their information.

    But, this is the most common front end noise problem I know of.

    Suspension - Front Suspension Knock, Pop or Squeak
    April 2, 2004
    Applies To:
    2001 Civic - ALL
    Knock, Pop, or Squeak From the Front Suspension
    (Supersedes 03-039, dated July 29, 2003)
    Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars.
    A knock, pop, or squeak comes from the front of the vehicle. The noise occurs when driving over rough roads.
    Cracking or tearing of the front, lower control arm bushing (compliance bushing).
    Replace the defective front compliance bushing(s).
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    edited April 2010
    Apparently, ALL Civics for 2006-7 have a problem with cracking engine blocks. Honda may give a goodwill contribution if out of warranty, but secondary damage like warped heads is still not covered.

    I predict a glut of used Honda Civis with poor resale values after the dust settles, and a lot of people disappointed in Honda's reputation for great engines.
  • Hrm, I've checked the LCA bushing on both sides and they look perfect. I'm going to pull the strut off and take a look at the bump-stop and strut bearing.

    I knwo I've got to replace the strut.. but I want to do both (Seems stupid to do just 1) and I was trying to see what else I should be looking at in order to fix this..
  • Hi All --

    I'm new to this forum and am researching an O2 sensor related issue on my 00 Lexus LS400. The replaced sensor continues to burn out almost every year and I'm wondering if there is a TSB out there for such an issue?

    Also, has anyone been successful in getting mechanic and/or dealership to pay for repair(s) related to TSBs especially if the car was out of warranty?

    thank you!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    No TSBs about recurrent failure but there is a TSB on properly identifying which 02 sensor to replace, so I guess it's possible the dealer is getting mixed up:


    December 23, 2009

    Engine Bank 1 and Bank 2 A/F and 02 Identification

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------

    TSB are strictly advisory and the dealer is under no obligation to perform the TSB at all. As for warranty, unless the TSB states that a warranty claim is applicable, then it doesn't apply to a warranty situation and the customer is charged accordingly.
  • Do you know the Digimaster II? Maybe or not, but what i want to say is that i bought one not long ago.

    To be frank with you, i think Digimaster II is a good car diagnostic tool, but the Digimaster II is not suitable for my car, so if you want to use it, please care about the specification.

    If you have good ideas, please share them with me, i will appreciate...
  • sarcasarca Posts: 9
    A lot of times a second battery is put in because the vehicle uses so much power that the main battery would always be dead. It's not a bad thing, in fact I'm thinking of hooking up one myself because my batteries always dying.
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