I urge you to file a complaint with the DOT using the link above. Honda needs to start feeling the heat and acknowledge the problem and help the service centers with resolution.
For what it is worth, my 2011 Odyssey EX-L had the TPMS light come on within a couple days of having it home. My wife and I both have iPhones and we paired hers to the car via bluetooth on maybe the 3rd day of ownership. (Today is the 7th day!) Don't know if the light went on when she used her phone, her bluetooth or some other time, but I know we don't have tire problems. Orange TPMS light is on, doesn't blink or flash... just stays on.
Bought 2011 Honda Odyssey Touring last week. Yesterday, the TPMS light came on and remains solid. No issues with tires/pressure. Taking it to the dealer on Monday. I did pair it with my iPhone and used it in the car. The light came on just yesterday. Lets see what the dealer has to say.
Took my Odyssey in last Friday to service center and they performed a "procedure" on it that was prescribed by Honda Techline. Said it was a bizarre series of actions they had to take including completely deflating each tire among several other things. They were not sure why it would ever resolve a cell phone interference problem but said they had luck on the first van they did about a week before. So far, so good, no TPMS error anymore but it has only been 3 days.
My 2011 Honda Odyssey battery died the day we were buying it before we got it off the lot. The guy told us he left everything on for too long when the car was off. They charged it said it would be fine . So before I turn the engine off I turn off all the power first. Well every the van tells me the battery is low as soon as I turn off the engine and before I start it. The dealer told me everyone one is calling about this but have nothing else to say or anything to to to fix it.
HI! I have the same question about the auto sliding door on my 07 Odyssey. It has 45,000 miles on it. The problem is intermittent but I think is a little dangerous. When using either the button on the dash or the remote to open the door, occasionally the door will open about 8-12" then stop and close again. The door is free and does not have the same symptoms as the other person had. Brought it to the dealer and they did not see it do it. At first I thought it was because I would open the door and then open the drivers door because it seemed to sync with the slider closing but now it is happening when we are outside the vehicle. My 5 year old's head almost got caught in the door today. Like I said, manually the door rolls just fine and works 90% of the time. But it does happen about 2 times a day and we open and close it at least 6-10 times a day. The dealer pulled the fuse to reset the door.
Will add my voice to others about the electrical defect causing the 'Low Battery - See Manual" warning light and alarm that goes off even when van is being driven in a very normal way without excessive battery drain. Have taken the van to the dealer twice, and again told battery charge is fine, alarm shouldn't be going off, presently no way to repair defect etc. For us, this most annoying loud alarm goes off as 10 beeps virtually every time we open the driver door or turn off the ignition. Why on earth there is such an excessively persistent frequent loud alarm for such a trivial problem defies logic. We are praying for a recall to fix this. Otherwise I can guarantee we won't be owning this van for long.
A HUGE issue with the new 2011 Honda Odyssey. Owners can't get Honda to address or even acknowledge it's a serious problem. They don't want to spend the $$$ to fix apparently and yet they keep selling the Odyssey with the design defect in place and raking in the money. Call American Honda customer service to report your problem and get a case number. Also tell them how frustrating this is and ask why Honda isn't fixing this problem??? You can track a lot of details regarding this 2011 Honda Odyssey low battery warning design defect here: 2011 Honda Odyssey low battery defect
I had the same issue today. The van died after driving off Alignment lamp. No single light on the dash, could not start unless with a jump start. I bought a battery cleaner i.e. the one that can scratch of collision. I cleaned the battery terminals and tightened the connection properly. The Van resurrected immediately. May be this can help.
I have a 2005 Ody EX. My hi beams work but lo beams don't. Fuses have been checked and all are okay, but I am not getting any voltage to the lo beam socket. I hear the relay click on in the underhood box when turning on the lo beams but still no voltage for the lights. Does anyone know where the headlight auto-off timer is located?
It started many months ago with new battery going dead after sitting a couple of days undriven. Cause found-constant 0.4 AMP current draw with nothing on. Problem was intermittant but occurs all the time. I have to keep a small battery charger on the battery when left parked for more than day. This is a list of electrical symptoms also occurring at same time. 1) no load battery draw=0.4 Amps (already stated) 2) Alarm system will not set 3) Drivers side (only) sliding door will not open automatically 4) Rear window wiper will not operate 5) Rear dome light will not go on when tailgate is opened (switches correct) 6) When driving at night with headlights on, dash lights flash between dim and bright. Otherwise vehicle drives properly. All these problems are somehow related but I cannot figure out why. Any ideas?
Driver side power window is working fine but passenger side front window and th rear windows do not work. I hear a click noise but the windows would not work. I have checked the window lock switch, that does not seem to be the issue. Any idea what the issue might be?
We purchased an Odyssey touring on April 22nd 2011. It is a 2011. It had 3 miles on it when we picked it up. The TPMS light came on on the way home from the dealership and it is still on.
It turned out to be the Relay Control Module. I bought it from Bernardi Parts for $218 or so. Not cheap so I would make sure to check the fuses first, and then use a meter to see if any power is getting to lo beam socket itself.
If no power to lo beams and if you hear clicking in the Relay Control Module (under the hood by the passenger side) when you turn on the lo beams, then your headlight/turn signal combo switch is most likely good. Problem would be the lo beam relay in the RCM. There was a related TSB (05-034) (http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/files/tsb/a05-034.pdf)
Note: It is difficult to remove the bottom cover without breaking the tabs. Maybe that's why they make you buy the whole assembly.
Hope this helps. As a quick fix so you can drive at night, you should be able to use the high beam relay (if your hi beams work). Remove the hi beam fuses and jumper the the high beam fuse + side to the lo beam fuse + side. Kept left to left and right to right.
Has anyone taken apart the Relay Control Module in the fuse box? I replaced one because the lo beam relay was not working and want to repair the old one for a spare.
It looks like the snap tabs will need to be broken or is it better just to use a dremel to cut off the rectangular box above the relays. Any sensitive components to watch out for?
ldub1 - I have the EXACT PROBLEM!!! My wife just got home and the dash display will not turn off, clock is frozen and back up camera does not work. I am supposed to take car on trip tomorrow. Did they ever fix your problem? I literally purchased this car (EX-L RES) on April 1, 2011. WTF?!?!?!?!
There IS a cure for the low battery warning light. I brought my 2011 Honda Odyssey EXL RES to Serramonte Honda for the same problem that everyone is complaining about. DO NOT BRING YOUR ODYSSEY TO GRACE HONDA FOR SERVICE. GRACE HONDA WILL DAMAGE YOUR VEHICLE AND NOT TAKE ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE DAMAGES. LAWSUIT HAD BEEN FILE. Serramonte Honda working with American Honda had came up with a solution to this annoying problem. An updated battery sensor is available through American Honda for warranty work. Old sensor part number is 32600-TK8-A01. New part number is 32600-TK8-A02. The new part number is not in any Honda dealership's inventory yet. American Honda had decided to keep this in house for the time being. You can call American Honda and they will set up an appointment with Serramonte Honda for this issue. Once Serramonte Honda confirms this problem and calls American Honda, American Honda will over-night the new part out for replacement and the problem goes away! Good luck to all the 2011 Honda Odyssey owners. Ask for Alex Lam, service advisor, who is super professional in handling the matter. Request for tech Hao Liang to work on your Odyssey. He is an excellent tech and knows how to do the job right the first time around. I had just pick up my Odyssey with no more problems! Take care.
Could you point me to some web page that explain those hundred mA? That's the issue I am experiencing. I lost 2 batteries within 9k miles. I insert my multimeter and it max out the 100mA reading. I think this is way too high when the car is off.
The battery has a capacity of 50ah. If it's draining at 100mA, it will drain half of the battery (which make it very hard, if not impossible to start the engine) within 250 hours. I don't think Honda engineers are so stupid to have those kind of parameters in their minds.
Actually I think I solved the problem. I kept pulling fuses till the battery draw went to almost zero. There is a fuse panel on the drivers side near the emergency brake pedal. I pulled out the 7 AMP fuse marked "BACK-UP". With this out, the .4 amp draw went away. I drove with it out for a day, but certain things did not work- Power side doors, alarm, lock(ignition off), rear wiper, rear dome light, and others. I could live with that if it saved my Battery. However, I now re-installed the 7 AMP fuse- and everything again works, with no .4 Amp battery draw. ??? maybe something reset in a control module. If I ever have the problem again I will pull the fuse. Better option than having to use a battery charger every night.
My Odyssey would stop running while driving-highway, local roads, any speed, any weather, any common road/weather/distance. It did this several times. I tool it to two dealers several times- they ran diagnostics but found nothing because the "Check Engine" light did not come on which means that no ERROR CODE was stored in the computer. Final solution- After dealer had it and drove it everyday, the problem was discovered- no communication to power control module (PCM). They performed a " No communication test" and found a Faulty Main Relay!! All I can say is that the FP# on the invoice is 39400-S84-003. $64.78 for the part and, no surprise these days- labor was $230.00. Before you have it replaced by a dealer, see if the part can be ordered and install it yourself or have your local mechanic do it for you.
I had the same problem with my 2011 EX-L. It's not the symbol I expected for low tire pressure (The semi-circle with a candle in the middle) but the dealer put some air in the tires and TPMS light went off.
You are a life saver. . I have the same problem and I'm not throwing any codes either...going to check into that part and replace it soon....Big Thanks again.....
I have a 2004 Honda Odessey who's battery died every two days. After replacing the alternator and battery, I finally found a bad mg clutch relay (this is the AC relay) in the engine fuse box. This caused a 3 amp draw causing the battery to discharge rapidly. I hope this helps!
While driving my 1999 Honda Odyssey (with ~85K miles) the van temporarily lost power. AC, radio went out for a few seconds and then the dashboard lights came on (like when the van is started). Van ran OK after that. I took my van to a local autoshop and they said it was a loose battery cable. All was OK until the other day when it happened again. I checked the cable connections and they seem to be good to go. I even jiggled the cables while the engine was on. BTW, + cable was replace 6-8 months ago. I did not see "check engine" light during the power interruption.
I plan to take the van to Honda Dealer but I have limited confidence they will find a solution. Any suggestions on what I should suggest to the mechanic? Communications test to power control unit, etc?
I've had the same problem and haven't been able to diagnose it despite taking it to the dealer 3 times. Basically the Navigation/radio seem to go out while driving. And as usual it never occurs when at the dealership, but happened about 6 times while driving to them. I thought it was a loose cable to the battery and removed it/ retightened it without much help. I also looked at all of the fuses, but they all looked ok. Suspect it has to something to do w/ the Navigation system since that is what keeps resetting, but will just have to wait to find out.
Okay, this is our third Odyssey. It will be our last. Bought it brand new in late March. By end of April, battery died with about 500 miles on it. I figured it was just a crappy underpowered battery so I replaced with $200+ Sears Diehard Platinum. Thought that would resolve the problem, but instead we have experienced ALL of the following on MULTIPLE occasions: (i) Low Battery Warning; (ii) Low Tire Pressure Warning; (iii) keypad transmitter won't unlock door, and car won't start (as if battery dead again) - call AAA, and while waiting for them, 20 min later car starts as if nothing happened and locks work again (this has happened 3 separate occasions with no rhyme or reason); (iv) voice command button occasionally results in 15 minute delay before command can be given; (v) phone calls draopped on bluetooth after about 5 seconds. Three trips to Honda Service already, and, of course, none of this happend while there (except for low pressure light) and they say everything is normal. In New York, 4th strike means lemon law. This is the 8th new Honda I have owned and I am absolutely appalled. I would warn anybody who is thinking of buying an Odyssey to WAIT until Honda figures out what the heck it has done to this model! Our 2007 was fine, except for the pain in the butt run-flats that got about 15K miles. This car is absolute garbage. It has turned a big Honda fan into a real doubter.
Update to my 99 Honda Odyssey Electrical Problem. After researching the probem online, I had the dealer replace the ignition switch and the van runs fine now. Of course the dealer couldn't find anything wrong when they drove it. Anyway, this is my second ignition switch since the part was recalled and replaced back in early 00's.
I have a 2003 Honda Odyssey. Since buying the van new, I have had minor electrical glitches and Honda has never been able to find a problem. Since, those minor issues didn't stop the van from working, I didn't press it since I didn't have the time to leave my van at the dealership indefinitely. I just had to have the transmission replaced 2 months ago at 130,000 miles. A few days ago I was driving and the dash power flashed on and off 10-12 times. I never lost power completely, just sudden burst of losing the radio, and the tachometer and speedometer dropping to 0. I reached my destination with no problem. Driving home, nothing happened, but when I had to make one more stop, I turned off the car and immediately had NO power to anything. On an off-chance, I turned the ignition on and turned on the headlights, and suddenly it had life. I could hear all of the clicking in the dash as everything decided to come on. I drove home (2miles) with no problem. A couple of hours later, my husband drove the car for 10 minutes, then came home and the same thing happened. Of course, Monday morning at the Honda dealership revealed nothing. Even after leaving it there over 24 hours to be repeatedly tested, they can't find anything. They say until they can replicate it, they can't figure it out. I say even if it went dead in their parking lot, then suddenly started working, they would still be at the same point they are now. They say they've tested the ignition, the alternator, the main relay, etc., but everything shows up as being ok. It obviously isn't. This isn't even safe to drive. Any suggestions other than getting something that isn't Honda?
I am also having similar problem with 2004 Honda Odyssey. It is becoming more frequent - twice it stopped on highway (the power came back quickly) and over the Thanksgiving Holidays it stopped completely on the local roads. I will get the Faulty Main Relay checked. Do you know how the dealer conducted a "No communication test"?
I have the exact same problem. Just had it tested yesterday, and they could find nothing wrong. My Honda dealership didn't even drive the van, which is frustrating, that's the only time I see the issue is when driving. If I find anything out, I'll post here.
The saga continues. Today, while driving I had the short bursts of losing power to the radio (tachometer and speedometer drop to zero) that I had a couple of weeks ago. This time, however, all of the dash lights came on like I was starting the car, but this time the TCS, ABS, SRS, and check engine light stayed on. Once I stopped the car and turned it off, there was a lot of "clicking' behind the dash. I turned the car back on and all of the dashboard lights were off. Later, I stopped to get out and tried opening the driver-side sliding door. No response. Door locks wouldn't unlock. Then I heard the clicking again, and as if by magic, the doors unlocked and opened. Having no faith in Honda, I took it to a local mechanic to see if he would be willing to figure it out. I will add that I am the original owner, and have had to replace 5-6 batteries in the 9 years I have owned the car. Hopefully, I will find out something soon.
Like everybody else who has posted here I still keep having electrical problems w/ our '06 Ody (original owner). I had posted earlier that it seemed the problems may have been w/ the Nav system, but I am not sure now. We've taken the car to the dealership (where its been serviced since we purchased it) now for 5 times without much luck. The dealership kept the van yet again for another 2 days and still couldn't replicate the problem. My original problem started when like everybody else the VSA/nav lights came on while driving and then the NAV and radio reset. It feels like the van is about to stall, while driving, but doesn't. The lights all flicker for just a second or two then everything resets. We also had a few instances where there is absolutely no power to the car. For instance, we pulled in to so into a parking lot, and after turning off the van I could not close the doors. I ended up manually closing the rear door, only to have the van come back to life a few minutes later as if nothing had happened. The latest issue is when the "emissions" system reset. I took the van to get it inspected for our annual inspection and the tech got a message of "emissions module not working" which led to yet another trip to the dealer. The eventually got the car to pass inspection after driving it about 30 miles to "reset" the module. Yet they still haven't been able to figure out why this is happening. I've also researched this online, and our dealer "called the engineers at Honda" to no avail. Not really sure if its a loose connection or a grounding problem somewhere or as some people have mentioned the "ingintion switch". Suspect we'll never know. I wonder if NTSHA has had any reports of this especially if the car/van had died on the road (a huge potential liability and safety issue). Still searching for an answer.
Go to safecar.com (nhtsa site) and you can read all of the registered complaints. There were over 500 regarding safety issues with the 03 Odyssey. You can also file your van's issues.
I haven't had the problem since I last posted. The only thing I did was really maintenance on the battery. I think our battery wasn't getting it's full charge as it should have been. The water cells in the battery were half empty, so after filling them back up to correct levels, and driving a couple of days to the battery could catch up on charging, I haven't noticed the problem even once.
Methinks there are a lot of different scenarios that can cause this. Good luck to everyone looking for a fix.
1) 4 trips to Honda dealership only to find nothing wrong w/ the car. $$$$ 2) 1 new battery (replacement) at Sams' club (free) 3) $3.99 new grounding connector for the negative wire on battery 4) $15 to install new battery connector 5) Being able to figure out the problem yourself without any Honda help- PRICELESS!!!
FYI: the battery I'd gotten from Sams (Energizer) had a lot of problems (the associate at Sams told me that a lot of people were bringing them back due to premature failure)- so now I've gotten a new battery (Duracel). Also if you haven't already checked the connections on the battery terminals (the wire actually holding on the ends) I'd check to see if they come off easily or not. In my case they did at Sam's- hence the new connectors. We'll see if this fixes the problem.
Today my 2006 Odyssey's Bright lights, turn signals, temperture gauge, both power sliding doors, and my back windshild wiper and fluids all stopped working at the same time. Also my radio, when turned on, reads CODE. When pressing the radio buttons it comes up with a bunch of XXXX on the panel. Like its looking for some kind of a code. Any ideas why. All fuses checked, no go. Stopped and restarted van, again no go.. Any anwsers would be great. Thanks!
Sometimes a weak battery causes the electronics to go haywire. I would have a charging system check done which includes checking the battery, alternator, etc. Good luck.
I would have your battery and alternator checked first. I had a similar situation (see my post earlier in this section), and I found out that it was the battery cable. Based on your symptoms I would be leaning towards either the batter or the battery cable. Whenever the cable is loose and not on tight it doesn't make an adequate connect hence the sporadic episodes of lose of power. If the battery and alternator check out (you can get them tested at a local auto parts store (autozone/napa, etc) for free), then you might need a more definitive eval at the dealership. Hope this helps .
I'm familiar with the codes,every time you disconnect the battery,you have to enter a code for the radio and the nav(if equip).The reason for this is for anti theft protection,thieves will think twice before they steal built- in radios cause it won't work unless you enter the codes.The codes are usually located at the 1st page of the service manual,if you can't find it,go to the dealer,give the vehicle number,they can pull it out in the computer.
Whenever I turn on my van early in the morning,I noticed the instrument panel is flickering,daytime running lights is not on,minutes later,it starts to flicker too.Slow wiper won't work and windshield washer won't spray.When I lock the van using the remote,a horn will sound to confirm that it's lock,but it won't.Checked all fuses,seems like everything's okay.Took it to dealer,left the van for the whole day,told me nothing is wrong with the van,so frustrating!!The colder the weather,the worst flickering you see!!Any suggestion will be really appreciated!!Thanks!!
I am considering buying a 2006 Odyssey Touring, but now a bit skeptical going by all the negative comments I read about it. The one I'm negotiating on has 146000 mileage, with a price tag of $9000.00; is it OK for that price? What alternative do I have? I need a reliable and cost effective minivan. Thanks.
I would consider an alternative if I am to take a loan to buy the Van. 1. Honda Vans are highly priced than other minivans in the same class. Why?? They hold their value very well. That means for the same amount of money you would get a newer and low mirage option. 2. I would rather buy an older vehicle that would not tie me in a loan for the nest 3-5 yrs. in other words by the time you get a return on the money you invested, the van will have lost value prestige etc. 3. I could go back to 2005 model and get one with even better mirage for $2000 or so cheaper. I have a 2000, w/ 176000 Miles I bought for $3500 2yrs ago. The Van is good, and every tax time I give it around $500 for whatever it need. No issues.
Comments
I have the same problem with our 07 Odyssey. How much was the repair and did u have any other more issues with the same problem?
Have taken the van to the dealer twice, and again told battery charge is fine, alarm shouldn't be going off, presently no way to repair defect etc.
For us, this most annoying loud alarm goes off as 10 beeps virtually every time we open the driver door or turn off the ignition. Why on earth there is such an excessively persistent frequent loud alarm for such a trivial problem defies logic.
We are praying for a recall to fix this. Otherwise I can guarantee we won't be owning this van for long.
2011 Honda Odyssey low battery defect
I have a 2005 Ody EX. My hi beams work but lo beams don't. Fuses have been checked and all are okay, but I am not getting any voltage to the lo beam socket. I hear the relay click on in the underhood box when turning on the lo beams but still no voltage for the lights. Does anyone know where the headlight auto-off timer is located?
Thanks.
1) no load battery draw=0.4 Amps (already stated)
2) Alarm system will not set
3) Drivers side (only) sliding door will not open automatically
4) Rear window wiper will not operate
5) Rear dome light will not go on when tailgate is opened (switches correct)
6) When driving at night with headlights on, dash lights flash between dim and bright.
Otherwise vehicle drives properly. All these problems are somehow related but I cannot figure out why. Any ideas?
If no power to lo beams and if you hear clicking in the Relay Control Module (under the hood by the passenger side) when you turn on the lo beams, then your headlight/turn signal combo switch is most likely good. Problem would be the lo beam relay in the RCM. There was a related TSB (05-034) (http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/files/tsb/a05-034.pdf)
Note: It is difficult to remove the bottom cover without breaking the tabs. Maybe that's why they make you buy the whole assembly.
Hope this helps. As a quick fix so you can drive at night, you should be able to use the high beam relay (if your hi beams work). Remove the hi beam fuses and jumper the the high beam fuse + side to the lo beam fuse + side. Kept left to left and right to right.
It looks like the snap tabs will need to be broken or is it better just to use a dremel to cut off the rectangular box above the relays. Any sensitive components to watch out for?
I literally purchased this car (EX-L RES) on April 1, 2011. WTF?!?!?!?!
Could you point me to some web page that explain those hundred mA? That's the issue I am experiencing. I lost 2 batteries within 9k miles. I insert my multimeter and it max out the 100mA reading. I think this is way too high when the car is off.
The battery has a capacity of 50ah. If it's draining at 100mA, it will drain half of the battery (which make it very hard, if not impossible to start the engine) within 250 hours. I don't think Honda engineers are so stupid to have those kind of parameters in their minds.
Did you figure out what caused that 0.4A draw? I have the same issue with my 07. Thanks.
Final solution- After dealer had it and drove it everyday, the problem was discovered- no communication to power control module (PCM). They performed a " No communication test" and found a Faulty Main Relay!! All I can say is that the FP# on the invoice is 39400-S84-003. $64.78 for the part and, no surprise these days- labor was $230.00. Before you have it replaced by a dealer, see if the part can be ordered and install it yourself or have your local mechanic do it for you.
We you able to fix yours?
Thanks.
I hope this helps!
I plan to take the van to Honda Dealer but I have limited confidence they will find a solution. Any suggestions on what I should suggest to the mechanic? Communications test to power control unit, etc?
Mahalo
I will get the Faulty Main Relay checked. Do you know how the dealer conducted a "No communication test"?
I haven't had the problem since I last posted. The only thing I did was really maintenance on the battery. I think our battery wasn't getting it's full charge as it should have been. The water cells in the battery were half empty, so after filling them back up to correct levels, and driving a couple of days to the battery could catch up on charging, I haven't noticed the problem even once.
Methinks there are a lot of different scenarios that can cause this. Good luck to everyone looking for a fix.
1) 4 trips to Honda dealership only to find nothing wrong w/ the car. $$$$
2) 1 new battery (replacement) at Sams' club (free)
3) $3.99 new grounding connector for the negative wire on battery
4) $15 to install new battery connector
5) Being able to figure out the problem yourself without any Honda help- PRICELESS!!!
FYI: the battery I'd gotten from Sams (Energizer) had a lot of problems (the associate at Sams told me that a lot of people were bringing them back due to premature failure)- so now I've gotten a new battery (Duracel). Also if you haven't already checked the connections on the battery terminals (the wire actually holding on the ends) I'd check to see if they come off easily or not. In my case they did at Sam's- hence the new connectors. We'll see if this fixes the problem.
1. Honda Vans are highly priced than other minivans in the same class. Why?? They hold their value very well. That means for the same amount of money you would get a newer and low mirage option.
2. I would rather buy an older vehicle that would not tie me in a loan for the nest 3-5 yrs. in other words by the time you get a return on the money you invested, the van will have lost value prestige etc.
3. I could go back to 2005 model and get one with even better mirage for $2000 or so cheaper.
I have a 2000, w/ 176000 Miles I bought for $3500 2yrs ago. The Van is good, and every tax time I give it around $500 for whatever it need. No issues.