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Paint and Body Care

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Comments

  • lleighton1lleighton1 Member Posts: 2
    Advice please...

    I have a '92 VW Jetta that I plan on selling next year. It has quite a few chips and acid rain spots which were removed but still visible. Everything else on the car is perfect. Since I just poured a ton on money into the engine, I want to ask top dollar.

    Would it be worth it to get a cheap paint job (Maaco kind) or would that actually reduce the value of the car? I've ruled out putting any kind of substantial money into the car so a quality job is out of the question.

    Thanks for the input.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 14,121
    It was many years ago, but I was faced with the same choice you are with an old Ford Torino GT. It was great mechanically as I had pored $$$ into the engine and interior, but the body had many very noticeable paint flaws.

    At the time, I didn't have much money for a "good" paint job so I too it to a similar place (as Maaco) called Earl Schieb. They did very little prep. Only thing they did was tape off the chrome, grill, headlights/tailights and windows. After they finished, (about an hour) I had overspray everywhere (door jambs, under the hood, in the trunk, wheel wells, etc). It looked OK from a distance, but if you got up close, opened the doors, trunk or under the hood, it was pretty ugly with the overspray. To make matters worse, I had it painted a different color from the original color. It looked like exactly what it was...a cheap paint job. In addition, everyone asked me it was in a wreck (it wasn't). Did it look better? I think that I traded one set of problems for another set of problems. It certainly didn't help me get "top dollar" when I sold it.

    At the time, the painters said I should have masked the car myself if I wanted a "good job".

    Don't know if over the years these "cheapo places" have gotten better. I would ask them what, exactly, they do to prep the car before painting.
    2024 Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD Long Range
  • joe166joe166 Member Posts: 401
    That might be the most expensive paint job you will ever get. Any time you get a full repaint it affects your resale value. People always suspect that it is because of a wreck. I am afraid you will not only not get your money back that you spend on a cheap paint job, but might actually be throwing some of the value away too.

    One question--what makes you think that this car is worth "top dollar"? There are several factors in valuing cars. Some of them include rarity, mechanical condition, and appearance. You seem to be out of luck on two out of three and the one you might be ahead of the game on is the most difficult to prove. Even if you have the receipts, they might be interpreted by a buyer as evidence of problems in the past rather than good condition. Your best bet might be to sell it to a friend (if you have that much confidence in it or if you have a lot of friends and can afford to lose one), who might have knowledge of the condition of the car and not care about the paint job. I do not think you can get "top dollar" for it, but there is one born every minute, so go for it.

    As to the paint job, don't do it, IMHO.
  • rs_pettyrs_petty Member Posts: 423
    Agree that a paint job will detract from your potential selling price. If it were a keeper, I'd say find a body shop that would work with you so you can do as much of the prep work as possible (strip trim, color sand, etc...). The other option is to get some quotes and use in haggling the price, but let your buyer see the original, not a cheap job.
  • lleighton1lleighton1 Member Posts: 2
    Well, by top dollar, I meant top dollar for my car, not compared to a Lexus. Thanks for the comments (I think).
  • sddlwsddlw Member Posts: 361
    Don't do it. Get some polishing glaze (not rubbing compound) and an orbital buffer with a wet-pad and clean up the paint as best you can, touch up the chips and then put some fresh wax on the car. A cheap paint job devalues the car. A good paint job is not worth it unless it has some collector's value, and even then, most people do not fix a car up and sell at a profit. Most fix it up for the love of it and then sell at a loss.
  • automophileautomophile Member Posts: 780
    As sddlw says, don't do it. A new paint job is something the new owner does, not the seller. Anything that is not original detracts from a car's value for most buyers.
    On a house new paint works, but not for cars.
  • paulsiupaulsiu Member Posts: 28
    Hi folks,

    The paint on my mom's 1992 Geo Prizm has faded badly. It used to be a deep red color, now it looks pink. I was wondering how to restore the color if it's even possible.

    I have tried using some rubbing compound by hand, but it failed to restore the paint. I was thinking of buying a buffer to see if that would help. However, the car does have a clear coat, so I wonder if using the buffer will just wore what remains of the clear coat away, causing the paint to fade even further.

    In any case, why is the paint fading any way? Is the paint oxidizing under the clear coat? Is it because the clear coat has worn away? Is the clear coat somehow becoming cloudy?

    Opinions any one?

    Paul
  • rs_pettyrs_petty Member Posts: 423
    The first thing to determine is whether or not you have clear coat. When you applied the rubbing compound (I'm assuming you in fact used a product labeled rubbing compound and not just a polish) did you get any color on your applicator? If yes, you don't have clear coat and the paint has oxidized. In this case use the least abrasive polish/compound that will give you the results your after, then glaze, then wax. If no, you have a clear coat which will present a different set of problems. The faded color certainly indicates oxidation to me. If you have clear coat, I'd recommend you take it to a body shop for wet sanding, buffing, polishing, and maybe a recoat of clear or at least to get a professional opinion. Or you could spend a couple hundred on supplies and try it yourself, if that's your interest. The buffer won't do anything that your hands won't do, it just does it faster.
  • sddlwsddlw Member Posts: 361
    When in doubt, take the time to talk to some pros. Find a high-end shop though, with some knowlegable people. There is always one of them who will take the time to chat with people about their passion ... cars and paint.

    I'd really recommend against an over the counter rubbing compound. They are too abrasive. Try looking though meguiers.com in their home and professional products information. They have several glazes and cleaning compounds for clear-coated and non-clear coated paints that can be used with a "home use" orbital buffer with a wet-pad. These products can be purchased at many better auto part and body shop supply stores.

    As rs_petty points out, there are shops that will do this work for you. It may be worth it if you don't feel comfortable or have the tools.
  • paulsiupaulsiu Member Posts: 28
    OK, I contacted Chevrolet. The 1992 Geo Prizm does have a clear coat, but I think it's apparently gone. When I try rubbing some cleaner wax on the car, I notice some red on the buffing cloth. If the clear coat was still there, there should be no red. This may be why the paint is fading.

    As to why the clear coat is gone, I am not sure why. My mom rarely wash or wax the car, so may be 8 years of outdoor element finally done in the paint. Still, I had an 89 Acura Integra once that I didn't wash or wax all that much, but the finish remained.

    So what should I do next? Should I even bother running a cleaning wax on the paint? I wonder if it will just take out the color layer. Is there some way to reapply the clear coat by hand? Should I keep the car coated with wax or Nufinish to keep what's left of the paint from fading?

    Paul
  • automophileautomophile Member Posts: 780
    I would have a good buffing and waxing done by a professional, and then keep the car waxed regularly with a good wax or polymer to protect what is left. A new clear coat is the same as a paint job - and about as expensive.

    It used to be that the red pigments faded the fastest of any color - maybe this is still true? Also - your Acura was probably more expensive, with better paint. The early Acuras were really well made.
  • paulsiupaulsiu Member Posts: 28
    I just keep it wax for now until I find a reputable paint pro.

    I think red does fade faster than other colors, but I was surprise at the rate of fading and how quickly the clear coat disappear (acid rain hard around here or something?).

    The 89 Acura Integra should have had a inferior paint job. It was 7 years older than the Prizm. Back then, I don't think clear coat was common. The car wasn't really more expensive. Back when the Integra first came out, they were going for about $12,000 and was supposedly sporty car for the masses. Nowadays, they're around $20,000.

    By the way, why clear coat any way? If a clear coat is basically paint without pigment?

    Paul
  • rs_pettyrs_petty Member Posts: 423
    Paul,
    The clear coat is what gave the paint the gloss. The basecoat is more than likely a flat finish and no amount of polishing will give you a shine because the paint was not designed that way. A lot of good info on paints is available on the Spies Hecker website (spiesheckerusa.com - a new Dupont partner). I believe the reasons auto makers went to a two step process was quality control, and environmental concerns. Your right that acid rain could easily have eaten the clearcoat away, especially since this was in the early years of its use and maybe not as chemically stable as now adays. I suppose your choices are to live with it or get it repainted. I doubt there is any restoration possible, but at least check around - I'm no expert.
  • sddlwsddlw Member Posts: 361
    Zaino makes a polish designed especially for paints without a clear coat. I have not used it in particular, but have been very impressed with their products for cear coated paint. Once the oxidation is removed, this product might go a long way to restoring a deep shine.
  • tsjaytsjay Member Posts: 4,591
    Hi everyone!

    This is my first post in this group.

    I need to know if there is a real need to wait a while before waxing a brand new vehicle? I have heard that it is best to wait a month or two before waxing a new car.

    I have a new Jeep Wrangler on order from the factory, and it should be in by mid to late December. When it comes in, the paint will be only a week or two old. I would really like to get some wax on that baby while the paint is still perfect, but should I wait?

    Help me, please.

    tsjay
  • paulsiupaulsiu Member Posts: 28
    Since I had some time on my hand, I tried out various product in the basement to see what effect it will have on the Prizm's finish.

    At first, I tried applying:

    Turtlewax Finish 2001 (some bottle from years ago)
    Liquid Lustre Ultra Gloss (the auto place said it was the best cleaning wax they have)
    3M Cleaner Wax (Consumer Reports said it was the best cleaning wax).
    NuFinish (from my Aunt)
    Mother's Pure Canauba Wax (an nearly empty bottle)

    All of the product except Mothers made the finish looked better, but none come even close to restoring the finish. I had hope that the Mothers would somehow coat over the defects in the paint, but this did not happen in practice.

    A while back, I had purchased Megular's 3 system for my car. The 3 stages consist of a Prewax cleaner, a polish and then a wax. I tried to use it on my mom's Prizm, but it didn't even make a dent in the paint. I decided to substitute the polish stage with Liquid Lustre and 3M cleaner wax.

    I first clean the surface using Megular's Prewax cleaner. The cleaner removed some stuff, but surface was still pretty rough.

    I then followed it with Liquid Lustre on one part of the panel and 3M on another.

    The Liquid Lustre claimed to be a once a year non-abrasive cleaner wax. I doubt that the finish will last that long. In any case, the product did clean, but not enough. It was easy enough to apply though. Just wipe it on and then wipe it off. You don't have to wait for it to dry.

    The 3M on the other hand managed to restore the finish to some reasonable state. The paint still doesn't look new, and still contain some haze patches under some lighting conditions, but I think the haze is where the clear coat wore through. Interestingly, the clear coat on the top of the car seem to have wore through, but the paint along the side still seemed OK. Weird!

    I plan to use this process to restore the car a section at a time. I heard that the 3M cleaner wax isn't very durable, so perhaps I'll coat it with NuFinish or something afterwards.

    Paul
  • daverosedaverose Member Posts: 233
    tsjay

    From all I've read on the Edmund's forums, you do not have to wait to apply protectant on a new car because the paint is baked on at the factory and is delivered fully-cured. The sooner you apply your protectant of choice, the better.


    Paul

    Nowhere did I read that you have clayed the car. Check out erazer.com for info. Mothers, Clay Magic, Zaino, and probably others make it. Once you have accomplished the more-thorough cleaning that clay is capable of giving you, then I would try polishing glaze.

    That clearcoat is gone from horizontal surfaces, but no vertical should not be a surprise. Those surfaces are exposed to more of the effects of sunlight than the others.
  • sddlwsddlw Member Posts: 361
    If your really serious about cleaning all the oxidation and crud off the paint, I would recommend looking into the glazing compounds specifically made for this purpose. And expect a full afternoon (or more) of wet buffing with these products. It may even take a couple different grits. Courser to get the crud off, finer to eliminate any unintended swilrs you might introduce with the courser stuff. Clay is great to get dirt and surface contaminates off, but I've never had much success in using it for removing oxidation.

    I'm very pro-Zaino polish and paint care, and very pro-Mequiers for their glazes and surface preparation products.. Good luck!
  • paulsiupaulsiu Member Posts: 28
    Daverose
    I thought claying is suppose to remove surface contamination. I think the reason why the the patchy look probably comes from the clear coat flaking off. The area without clear coat is probably going to be less glossy than the clear coat. If I polish off all of the clear coat, the surface would probably look less patchy, but that would mean even less protection.

    Your explanation for the faster clear coat deterioration on horizontal surface makes a lot of sense.

    sddlw
    I haven't see Zaino sold in the store any where. I heard their products are expensive. I don't suppose if they have a email or phone number I can call them about which product I should use?

    Megular usually works pretty well, except that number 2 wasn't very effective in cleaning.

    Paul
  • scottmsimpsonscottmsimpson Member Posts: 66
    Hi all, hate to ask this type of question here, but I'm not sure what happened.
    I can read most topics without problem, but earlier this week I started geting a blank screen when I select topics 1038 and 1319, the two 'wax' topics. Any one else have trouble with these two, or know how to fix it? You can email me direct if you don't want to respond here. Simpson@mixcom.com
    Thanks.
  • mike_542mike_542 Member Posts: 128
    The Zaino Bro's website is at www.zainobros.com and email at wet@zainobros.com. You cannot get them at a store, unless if it is a special Zaino retailer. Also, you can buy them with their mail-order form.
  • mdamesmdames Member Posts: 79
    My car is a 2000 model with gold metallic paint. I have taken extremely good care of it with Zaino products. It looks great except for a recent small chip I received on the hood while driving on the freeway. It's very narrow (just a slit) and about 1/8 inch in length. It's fairly deep. What's the best way to fix this. I'm afraid to just use touch up paint. It'll probably look worse that if I just left it alone. Are there any tricks to touching it up that will help? I'd like to keep this simple
  • automophileautomophile Member Posts: 780
    Fill the slit with touchup paint, and then use some "Paint Leveler" (In a little jar like the paint) to smooth the paint blob down to the surface. If you are careful, the nick will dissappear.
  • hawiianavownerhawiianavowner Member Posts: 76
    it will take time, patience, a toothpick and a few other things. Go to http://www.autopia-carcare.com/, click on Information, then Car care FAQ, then How to fix a scratch/nick. Good luck!
  • chuasanchuasan Member Posts: 42
    Hi All,

    I live in NJ and my car needs a wash badly. Does anyone here lives in tri-state area and knows a great car wash places around? Please let me know 1)name and location 2) hand or machine wash 3) cost 4) a sentence why you go there (distance? quality?) I really appreciated your input and thanks in advance.
  • sddlwsddlw Member Posts: 361
    I see Mike 542 gave you the zaino web site. It took me about 10 days to get things in San Diego once I mailed my check. Perhaps some day in the future the boys will get their on-line shopping act together, but for now you gotta use the mail. It's worth the wait. The web site gives you all the info you need to select the right products, and when in doubt, contact Sal Zaino.

    For more info on Meguier's stuff, go to http://www.meguiars.com/ and look in the sections for paint preparation in both consumer and professional care products. Many good parts stores and auto body supply houses cary the professional products. Many are difficult for the consumer to use, but if you stick with the ones for hand buffing or orbital buffers you should do fine. Many body and detail shops will do this for you and because they have the equipment, supplies and experience, can do a great job, fast. You might want to price it out to see if this makes sense for you. But an over the counter orbital buffer, a bonnet made for wet work, and a couple of these glazing products will work wonders.
  • theratboytheratboy Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a new car that is going to be parked on the streets of San Francisco. We, obviously, have a lot of fog and generally damp dewy weather. What is the best car cover I could buy? Thanks.
  • tronsrtronsr Member Posts: 46
    Where do you live in NJ? It is a big state.
  • chuasanchuasan Member Posts: 42
    Right! I live in the Morris County (middle NJ)! I drive to see my girl in Queens, NY. So I will drive to almost anywhere if the service/quality good! Tronsr, where do you wash your car in winter?
  • mike_542mike_542 Member Posts: 128
    I reccomend you going to Yahoo.com, click on "US States,""New Jersey," and type in "Car Wash." I wash my car myself even in the winter because I live in Southern California and it never snows...
  • tronsrtronsr Member Posts: 46
    I go to the local car wash {brushless.. they use those long chamois type strips} but I live in Florida for the winter months and go to So. Jersey {Cherry Hill area} for the summer months. Sorry I couldn't help...Also check your yellow pages.
  • mike_542mike_542 Member Posts: 128
    There is a new car wash that is not based on flaps. From the outside, you can't tell, but inside there are no flaps at all, just pipes. The system is called the LaserWash 4000. "The Future Is Now" is what it says on the slip of paper that has the code number on it. If you pay inside, you get a code, otherwise you feed bills directly into the LaserWash console. I punched in my code. The LaserWash started to hum. Fountains of water switched on as soon as my code was verified. I drove forward as instructed by the machine itself.

    The initial fountains of water must be intended as a preliminary step, a preparation for the actual laser-guided wash. The initial fountains spray water upwards, which is probably the same direction most of the dirt was travelling as it headed for my car in the first place. The fountains wash off the surface dirt.

    I drove forward. There's a framework on the floor of the LaserWash shed, a harness for the front left tire. I drove into the harness and was told to stop the car. The car had stalled anyway because I couldn't hear the engine and had allowed it to rev down too far. The strain of rolling into the harness had caused it to stall. I found that convenient, almost as if the LaserWash had been designed to stall the car at the exact moment it was secured. The LaserWash was now fully active.

    A sign informed me that the wash step had begun. The main pipe began to spray a light foamy mist onto the car. The pipe is guided by a laser, hence the name. A laser conveyed the shape of my car to the machinery that moves the pipe, the essential geometry. Soon I couldn't see the LaserWash because the foam obscured the windshield.

    The pipe returned to its initial position. The sign now indicated that my car was soaking. The foam slid off the windows slowly, enough that I could read the sign. Soon the soak time elapsed and the rinse began. The rinse phase is violent, more intense than the pre-wash spray. The water hurtles from the pipe, the car vibrates from the impact. The pipe retraced the vague outline of my car that it had learned from the laser system.

    The wax phase began. I hadn't wanted any wax, but apparently the LaserWash is not configured to perform a wash without sealing its handiwork in wax. The wax is not optional. The pipe began its circuit again, spraying wax. The wax spray is gentle, a profound contrast to the rinse spray. Water beaded up on the windshield.

    The wax phase finished. I heard a louder rumble than I'd heard before. The top of the car shook. The blowers had come on, and the sign instructed me to drive forward. There are blowers at the exit from the LaserWash shed, and there must be blowers in the middle. The ones at the exit are designed to blow the remaining water off the car, to seal the wax. The blowers are an essential part of the LaserWash system. I decided to drive very slowly under the blowers, to savor the action. I wanted the car to be as dry as possible. I paused as the hood began to dry. I slipped forward another two feet. The noise increased. I moved forward more. I tried to pause so that the back of the car would dry, but I had rolled too far. Reversing into the LaserWash did not seem smart. It's a one-way shed.

    In conclusion, I highly reccomend this process for people who don't have the time to wash their own cars. Their were NO scratches, and the wax shined the car a bit.
  • mike_542mike_542 Member Posts: 128
    In our neighborhood, the only automatic car wash is "Laser Wash." The rest of the car washes are hand. Hand wash can vary greatly, depending on the soap they use and how much they charge you. Still, I reccomend YOU to wash your car and protect it with a high quality wax such as Zaino (as mentioned above) or Malm's Formula 10.
  • tronsrtronsr Member Posts: 46
    That's easy for you to say, "Wash your own car"....but not possible for many of us "handicapped".
  • vernlewvernlew Member Posts: 87
    Mike,
    FYI, thought I'd mention jus in case you may not realize that Malms Formula 10 is a polish/glaze, you will need to follow up with a wax ie Malms liquid or paste carnauba wax afterwards...let us know what you think...as I am also goin to try this combo also...
    Vern
  • mike_542mike_542 Member Posts: 128
    There are some new products that help you wash your own car, easier in the winter. They don't clean as well as good 'ol car wash, wash mitt, and towel, but they at least don't stip wax or scratch the body. These products are Blue Coral's Spray Wash which you connect to your hose and spray your car with car wash, or Kit's quick car wash which you just hold the trigger, and foamy liquid comes out. Both of them don't need buckets and take little time.

    Vernlew, Malms Formula 10 contains some wax, "...soft carnauba wax gives some protection..." said Malms.com. The liquid carnauba wax is for EXTRA protection which I tried.

    The results? I couldn't get my hands on the paste because, "...given to people that have previously purchased Malm's products before March 31, 1999..." but anyways, the combo was pretty good. It doesn't have the wet look as Zaino Bro's, but is smoother and lasts longer. Next time, I will try a Zaino/Malms combo which has Zaino Polish to give it a wet look, and Malms to seal the shine. Hopefully, this works...
  • paulsiupaulsiu Member Posts: 28
    According to some post, wax does not last as long in the summer because of the heat. I guess the heat cause the wax to melt and break down.

    Since the car hood gets hotter than the rest of the vehicle, does this mean I should wax the hood more often because the wax there will break down faster?

    Paul
  • paulsiupaulsiu Member Posts: 28
    I live in an apartment so I can't wash my car from my resident. According to other posts, automatic car wash is out because their brushes can damage the finish on the car and their soap can strip wax.

    What about these self-serve car washes? The ones near me consist of a sprayer that distribute water, soap, and wax. There's also a brush that ooze foam. The idea is that you spray the car, spray it with the soap, then use the foam brush to get foam all over your car. Finally you rinse it off and spray it with wax.

    Still, I wonder if the soap will strip off the wax. Dirt may built up on the brush. Perhaps I should just use the sprayer and bring my own bucket and wash? The sprayer seems to be a pressure variety, but I figure if I don't point the sprayer directly at the car it should be OK.

    Opinions?

    Paul
  • automophileautomophile Member Posts: 780
    1) Do-it yourself car washes -
    Bring your own car wash soap, such as Turtle Wax Zip Wax, your own soft wash mitt, and your own 100% cotton towels, and just use their water and facility.

    2) Hood Waxing -
    Yes - you are correct. The heat can cause the wax to break down faster, plus all your horizontal surfaces get more sun than the sides of the car.
  • rs_pettyrs_petty Member Posts: 423
    While they may be a little hard to find there are lots of youth sports teams that would probably love to wash your car for a donation to the team. Might even be able to work out a regular schedule for those in housing where washing isn't allowed.
  • automophileautomophile Member Posts: 780
    Yes, there must be a lot of enteprising kids that would love to make a few $$ washing your car regularly. I did this for 3 customers when I was a teen, including one guy with 3 cars - one a Ferrarri!

    Just be sure they do not use a detergent on your paint - only car washing soap!
  • bcloughbclough Member Posts: 97
    At this time of the year (December) you're not going to get much sports-team car-washing in many of the United States.

    I'm wondering how much time it would take to hand-wax a small car. I've never done it before, but now I have a brand-new car, and I feel I ought to wax it.

    Brenda
  • pjyoungpjyoung Member Posts: 885
    It won't take long at all to hand wax a small car. It only takes me about an hour to hand wax a full size car. The time it takes is very minimal when you consider how much better the car looks, and how much better the car is protected from the elements. I'm a Z nut, but it doesn't matter what you use - the payoff for an hour or two is well worth the results.
  • bcloughbclough Member Posts: 97
    An hour or two I am willing to invest! But it's going to snow tomorrow -- maybe after the thaw.

    Brenda
  • automophileautomophile Member Posts: 780
    pjyoung is a Zaino polymer fan, like myself. Since you have not waxed a car before, this could be an excellent product for you. I suggest that you follow the Zaino forum here for a while, and check out www.zainobros.com for the complete story.
    One reason I recommend it to you is because it is exremely easy, with non of the hard rubbing required my most waxes. And - once you have the special base coat on, following coats go VERY fast. I do one of our cars in about 20mins. to wipe on, and another 15 to wipe off.
    Also, it will give you really good protection in a harsh climate so your car can stay looking new.

    It is really important to "clay" your car before applying a wax or polymer. It will remove all kinds of gunk and pollutants from your paint, and your car will be so smoooooth the polish will almost go on by itself. You can read a very good explanation of this at www.erazer.com. The clay is the hard part, but you only need to do it once - then, if you polish your car regularly, it goes really fast.
  • bcloughbclough Member Posts: 97
    It's a brand-new car -- do I really need to clay it?

    Brenda
  • sddlwsddlw Member Posts: 361
    Check out the info on the zaino web site. Even if you decide not to use thier product, it is very educatonal.

    If you do the whole process with washing, clay, etc. the initial process will take a fair amount of work and time. But it can be a labor of love, especially with a new or classic car.

    Can you use Zaino without the claying ... absolutely. Will you notice a difference .... well that depends. if your looking for the aboslute best shine and depth of color you can possibly get, then yes you will. It is aboslutley astounding what the whole process + 5 coats of polish will do for a car. We're talking high-end show car, spare no expense kind of finish. But if you just want a quality paint protectant and are not going to be quite as ... involved ... as some of us are with are autos, then you might decide to skip the claying and do fewer coats of polish. The protection and shine are still very good.

    Have fun with your new car!
  • pjyoungpjyoung Member Posts: 885
    If you've never waxed a car before, then claying may prove to be more work than you want to do. I did not clay my new car, and I am very pleased with the way it looks. Since I am a Zaino fan, I can tell you that the very first time you use it, it will take a bit longer (in the winter, it can take some time to dry), but subsequent applications go on real easy. Zaino might be for you since it gives a good shine and lasts a long time...in other words, if you aren't into waxing a car frequently, you can put on a coat of Zaino and go for about 6 months before you need another coat.

    Some waxes might provide a better shine (although I haven't found one that does), but they will not last as long as Zaino. So, if I'm reading your posts right - you want your car to look good, but you don't really want to "detail" it every week. Zaino (or other polymers) might suit you better because they last longer.

    Whichever way you go, put something on your paint, not so much for shine, but for protection from the elements. In the long run, you'll be glad you did. Who knows, you might even turn out like some of us and find it fun to wax your car.
  • sstaylorsstaylor Member Posts: 35
    I am looking for some advice.

    I am in the process of acquiring a new vehicle. With regard to color, one candidate looks particularly good in black, but I am wary of getting another black vehicle, due to past experience (with another manufacturer's vehicle).

    Any recommendations, short of more clear-coat, for making the finish look better longer?

    Thanks,
    SST
This discussion has been closed.